Christians and Orthodox both celebrate Easter, albeit at different times. The biggest differences are the practices between countries and indeed even within them. Many of these stem from folk practices rather than religious ones, that have been moulded to match the holiday. Therefore we now have a range of unique celebrations of Easter in Europe. It’s a cultural treasure just waiting to be explored, and thankfully has been by some of the best bloggers around. This is their experiences of the different Easter celebrations in Europe.

The Origins of Easter in Europe through to the Modern Day

Easter firstly found its origins in the celebrations of Eostre. This was a celebration around the time of the spring equinox dedicated to the Anglo-Saxon goddess of Spring and Fertility of the same name. Ancient stories of Eostre commonly link her with eggs, a symbol of fertility and new life, and hares. Perhaps because of the spring in their step. However the latter may have been changed over the centuries by folk people. This fact has been lost to time and history though.

The earliest known celebration of Easter by Christians came in the 2nd century. However it took many more full moons before the current means of deciding when Easter should fall came into being. This was agreed upon in the 8th century, when they finally settled on the first full moon after the spring equinox. This corresponds with the month of Nisan in the Hebrew Calendar.

The Eastern Orthodox Church has a different means of calculating Easter as they used the Julian Calendar rather than the Gregorian one. It usually means that Orthodox Easter can fall up to a month after the Christian one. While efforts have been made to fix Easter on a specific date, no agreement has been reached. Easter can fall anytime between March and May, depending on religion and the calendar.

With such indecision over the centuries as to when Easter should fall, is it little wonder that how Easter is celebrated from country to country, and even village to village. While most involve religious elements, many also blend folk traditions into it. In doing so they create their own unique celebration of Easter. Many of the celebrations begin on Palm Sunday and continue all through holy week.

The Unique Traditions of Easter in Europe

While commercial Easter has become all about Easter Bunnies, Chocolate Eggs, and Egg Hunts, it’s the unique Easter in Europe traditions that I’ve asked bloggers to introduce you to

Easter in Europe really does vary drastically country by country. The tradition of the Easter Bunny started in Germany, and it brings the eggs. In France its “les cloches de Pâques”, aka the Easter bells. These fly away to Rome in Italy and return on Easter Sunday with the eggs. Naturally Rome itself is the Catholic epicenter of Easter. St Peters Basilica hosts a huge Easter mass.

Though its Enna the island of Sicily, and its parade of 2000 friars dressed in white cloaks that wins the unique award. Its smaller European destinations such as this that possess the most original ceremonies. Read on and hopefully we can motivate you on where to spend your Easter holiday in 2022.

Easter in Ireland

Despite being perceived as a traditional country, Ireland has been on a fast track to modernity over the last century. With that much of its old culture has been lost. The only Easter tradition to survive to this day in some form is the “cludog”. This is how egg hunts were known back then. Though the tradition then was to roast them and after the hunt place the shells around the bottom of a Mulberry Bush.

Gone are some of the older traditions such as watching the sun dance (getting up to see the sunrise); the cake dance (a dance around a cake of course); and the bonfires that once marked each big event in the Irish calendar.

Whipping the herring out of Town

However the tradition that’s really unique and sorely missed is “whipping the herring out of town”. This is a throwback to the time when Ireland was devoutly Catholic. Eating meat or animal products was forbidden for the 40 days of Lent. Before you assume the Irish were the first vegans, they substituted with fish, with herring the cheapest and most common.

Butchers suffered immensely during this time. Therefore when Easter Sunday came around, a herring was mounted on a stick and paraded through the town while been whipped. It was then given a mock funeral in a river. The herring was then replaced on the stick with a quarter of lamb. This was decorated in ribbons, as the butchers celebrated a return to business.

Sadly you can only see a painting by Nathaniel Grogan of the ceremony now, at the Crawford Gallery in Cork. It’s time butchers resurrected the tradition.

The Sprinkling in Holloko in Hungary

By John from CarpeDiemEire.

Holloko is a as small village in Northern Hungary that keeps alive the old traditions of the country. In doing so it is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, and has become one of the biggest travel destinations in Hungary outside of Budapest. This applies in particular during Easter, when the village hosts a huge festival.

Most come to see the particular tradition known as the sprinkling. This was once popular in Hungary, Slovakia and Poland, but as the countries left behind their village way of life, the tradition was left too. Not so in Holloko and many parts of Hungary. Sprinkling for those that are unfamiliar is a folk belief, that by throwing a bucket of water over a young girl (usually of marrying age) she will then be fertile and not wilt.

While it looks and sounds somewhat barbaric it isn’t, and nowadays is predominantly done for fun or spectacle. While in villages the bucket has been replaced by perfume that gets splashed on the head (in exchange for palinka or decorated eggs), Holloko still goes all the way.

Its the real highlight of a full weekend of festivities that make spending Easter in Holloko in Hungary a great idea. Besides this there is a full program of events with Easter markets, food stalls, live music and entertainment.

Semana Santa in Andalusia Spain

Contributed by Faith of XYUandBEYOND.

Semana Santa (Easter) is celebrated throughout Spain and you can be assured that every single region will have a parade and special events.

In Andalucía Semana Santa begins on the Sunday before Easter. La Madruga as it is known as was started in the 16^th century. It allowed people to participate in the Passion of the Christ.

Brotherhoods known as Cofradias are responsible for carrying the massive floats known as tronos. The tronos are floats with one figure such as Christ or Mary. There are also pasos floats with more than one figure that depict events such as the Last Supper. 

The men carrying the tronos or pasos will often wear blindfolds signifying they are making a sacrifice to ask for favours from God for their family or friends, never for themselves. 

The floats are followed by capirotes who are penitents related to the Cofradia they follow. A capirote is a tall conical hat that is believed to bring the wearer closer to god. 

The parades are always accompanied by brass bands and music which is an important part of the celebrations. During the parade a saeta will be performed. The Saeta is an ancient traditional Spanish religious song and it is performed from a balcony overlooking the parade route.  

The parades will wind their way throughout the villages from one of its churches to a central Cathedral and all along the route you will find onlookers and celebrants. It is a joyous celebration that you can’t miss if you plan on being in Spain throughout Easter.

Franconian Easter Fountains of Germany

By Corinne Vail at Reflections Enroute.

Every year, a small region of Bavaria called Franconia decorates their fountains in the centre of town with Easter eggs and pine boughs. Many are decorated in the shape of a crown. The eggs are decorated by the townspeople, often at the elementary school. Everyone gets involved, and it’s a great road trip to plot a route through the towns and see which fountain you like the best.

The fountains are decorated about two weeks before Easter, and stay up for another week afterwards so there’s plenty of time to go. Some of the towns that have annually decorate their fountains are: Heiligenstadt, Birkenreuth, Zapfendorf, and Weiden in der Oberpfalz, but there really are many to choose from. My advice is to take your time. Visit the towns and see all their decorations and fountains, then stop for a great seasonal lunch of trout or lamb.
Franconia is in central Germany, easily accessible by train.

However, to get out into the villages, it will be necessary to rent a car. I suggest taking a flight or train to Nuremberg, renting a car there and making a circuitous route. You’ll love it.

Pomlazka in the Czech Republic

By Joanna from The World In My Pocket.

In the Czech Republic, Easter is celebrated more as a welcoming of spring rather than a religious holiday. The celebrations begin with the opening of the Easter Markets in Prague and continue well after Easter day.

One of the unique Czech traditions celebrated at Easter is the Pomlázka, an old pagan custom. On Easter Monday, boys go from house to house with the Pomlázka. This is made out of braided willow branches decorated with ribbons. They ask for the girls to come out and they gently whip their legs with it, whilst singing a tune asking for painted eggs. This is actually a ritual of fertility dating back from the 13^th century done so that the women don’t “dry out” during the rest of the year. In return, the girls give the boys a painted egg and tie another ribbon to their Pomlázka. 

Whilst outside of the Czech Republic the Pomlázka might sound like an odd tradition, in the country it is accepted pretty much everywhere. If a woman doesn’t want to be whipped on Easter Monday, she simply doesn’t open the door. However, many do, especially if they are looking forward to having a baby in the following year.

Butarice in Slovenia

By Helene from Wandering Helene

Easter traditions in Slovenia are plentiful and begin in February for Shrovetide, but after Ash Wednesday things quiet down until a week before Easter.

A tradition found throughout Slovenia, and some other parts of Central Europe is the cvetnonedeljske butare (Palm Sunday bundles). These are “bouquets” of foraged sticks, vines, flowers, greenery, and other bits found in the forest. Across the country, there are variations in the style and name. 

In Ljubljana, where there is not as much forest, they developed their own style. The Ljubljana butara or butarica is made with brightly painted spruce wood shavings. Just before Easter, the central market has stands selling these colorful bundles with fresh flowers and greens poking out the top. 

In some parts of the country, the butara uses specific plants to bless livestock, represent symbols in Christianity, or include fruit. The largest one ever made was 304 meters and took 130 men to carry it to the church for its blessing. After a blessing, parts of the butara can be fed to the animals, burned, or placed between the rafters of the home for protection.

The days before Easter is when some people dye eggs. Painted eggs, called pirhi, are an art form with stunning intricate regional motifs passed down through the family. These eggs are placed in a basket along with ham and potica to be blessed at the local church the Saturday before Easter.

If you visit Slovenia for Easter there are butara workshops hosted across the country. There you can learn how to make the traditional bundle for your own. 

Easter in Athens in Greece

By Chrysoula from Athens and Beyond

Easter in Greece is the largest religious festival in the Orthodox calendar. The week leading up to Easter (holy week) is very special. Most Greeks are preparing themselves spiritually for the festival. On Good Friday (Megali Paraskevi), housewives spend the morning in their local church decorating the purple draped Epitafios (tabernacle with the icon of Christ’s entombment) with beautiful white flowers. They have usually completed their work by lunchtime, so it is well worth popping into a few churches to admire their work.

Early the same evening, the women return to the church to sing the Heritismi (anthem to Our Lady). At about 9.00 p.m. the Epitafios is carried through the streets of the neighborhood in a procession led by the priest chanting prayers and 12 Bible readings.  His parishioners walk slowly behind him, carrying lit candles.

If you are staying in Athens, a lovely church to visit to see the decorated Epitafios is Agia Ekaterina (St Catherine) in Plaka. It was built in the 11th century in a cruciform shape with a central dome. Plaka has many bars and restaurants, so a stroll later in the evening will give you the opportunity to see the candlelit procession.    

The Procession of the Holy Blood in Bruges

By Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

The Procession of the Holy Blood is held every year in Bruges, Belgium on Ascension Day. This is the Thursday that falls 40 days after Easter. This procession celebrates a holy relic said to contain a piece of the blood-stained cloth Joseph of Arimathea used to wipe the face of Jesus Christ after his death. The cloth was preserved and brought to Bruges during the Second Crusade in the 12th Century. It’s believed by some that on Ascension Day, the dried blood becomes liquid again.

Over 3000 participants march in the procession annually. This includes local politicians, clergy, and members of the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood, who look after the holy relic. The parade, divided into four segments, first relays Bible stories from the Old and New Testaments. Following this the history of the relic arriving in Bruges, and the final religious component, which includes the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood displaying the holy relic itself. The parade includes floats, costumed actors, musicians, a menagerie of animals (including camels!) and even jugglers dressed in Medieval garb.

The procession begins after morning Mass (around 2:30pm) and starts at the Dijver Canal at 8000 Brugge. It is free to attend, but you need to purchase a ticket if you want to sit in the stands or on a bench along the route. Click here https://www.bloedprocessiebrugge.be/en/ for more information on the procession, route and how to buy tickets for a seat.

Throwing Clay Pots from Windows is Corfu

By Nina from Lemons and Luggage

One of the most unique Easter traditions in Europe takes place on the Greek island of Corfu. Located in the Ionian Sea, you can reach the island from Athens by plane.

Corfu is known for its many marching bands, and these play an important role during Easter. In the afternoon of Good Friday, the center of the capital Corfu is filled with them playing mourning songs while various churches perform their Easter processions.

One final procession takes place on Saturday after which people celebrate the so-called first resurrection. This fascinating aspect of Easter in Corfu takes place at 11 am. People throw clay pots filled with water from windows and balconies before marching bands play celebratory music. Thousands of people watch this ritual and take pieces of the pots home for good luck.

There are several theories as to the origins of this ritual. According to one the Ancient Greeks threw out their old clay pots and replaced them with new ones to mark the arrival of spring. Another theory states that the Venetians who ruled the island for several centuries used to throw out old objects to start the new year with new ones. The locals then moved the ritual to Orthodox Easter and used clay pots.

At midnight the big Easter ceremony takes place with thousands of candles being lit as well as fireworks. Finally, people in Corfu like the rest of Greece have enormous barbecues but don’t worry, there are places to eat vegan in Corfu as well.

Holy Saturday in Crete

By Roxanne from Faraway Worlds

Easter in Crete is one of the most important holidays of the year. While the largest of the Greek islands is only a short flight from Athens, Crete’s has its own distinctive Easter traditions. Greece celebrates Orthodox Easter, which is based on the Julian calendar.

This typically falls a couple of weeks later than is celebrated in Catholic or Protestant churches. One of the highlights of Easter in Crete falls on Holy Saturday. Typically, a late mass is held, which finishes just before midnight and is extremely well attended. Just before the end of mass, the Holy Candle is lit and everyone lights their sacred candles from the holy flame. At the end of mass, fireworks start and a bonfire is lit, where an effigy of Judas is burnt outside the church.

After mass, people hurry home with their candles and mark their doors with a black cross from the ash. This is supposed to bring luck for the coming year. The 40-day fast ends at midnight, so many families break their fast at home, otherwise, many tavernas are open after the midnight service with food and live music. Easter in Greece is a lively affair, and people eat until late into the night.

Egg Rolling in Northern Ireland

By Allan from It’s Sometimes Sunny in Bangor  

Egg rolling is a traditional Easter game played annually where hard boiled eggs are decorated with dyes and paints before rolling them down a hill. There are different versions of this game played in different countries but most will follow a similar set of rules within the United Kingdom.

Locally for myself in Northern Ireland, we would always prepare the eggs the day before Easter by boiling them first with onion skins to dye the outer shell. The dye was never overly necessary however as the hard boiled eggs were then painted and decorated. This was using watercolor or acrylic paints mostly, but not specifically, with Easter themes. The paint is then left to dry overnight, then, on Easter Day, local parents would bundle their kids in the car and head off to a place called Scrabo Tower.

This is a location around a 15-minute drive from Belfast City Centre, for the annual Easter egg roll. At the top of the hill the eggs are then rolled down the slope, and the contestant whose egg rolls farthest, without breaking or getting lost, is the winner. Unfortunately it is a dying tradition but more official events have kept traditions alive in other parts of the U.K. 

Cross Prosessions on Hvar in Croatia

By Gabrijela from Under Flowery Sky

Island Hvar is one of the most beautiful islands in Croatia. It is located 2 hours by ferry from Split or 1 hour by katamaran. Split is easily reachable from Zagreb which usually takes around 5 hours by bus.

This whole night event is an ancient tradition dating 500 years back. Every Holy Thursday at 10 pm, six local churches simultaneously start walking through the villages of Vrbanj, Vrboska, Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirče to come back to the starting point. During 8 hours, participants pass more than 25 km. One person acts as guide carrying the cross all the way, a person who was chosen 20 years prior. This procession is part of UNESCO’s cultural heritage.

Picturesque towns of island Hvar include: Hvar which is an administrative centre; Starigrad- one of the oldest towns in Europe where the beautiful palace of the local poet Petar Hektorović is located; Vrboska which is also called Little Venice, and Jelsa- known for its laid back atmosphere.

Easter celebrations in Europe

The celebrations of Easter in Europe that are seen around the continent are diverse enough to ensure that in fact nearly all are worth seeing on their own merits. Even within countries such as Greece, the mainland and islands celebrate vastly different. It’s a great opportunity to experience some of the unique cultural differences that still exit between the nations on the block. Easter is usually an ideal time to start your travelling year also, as Spring is in full swing in Europe. Which of these Easter celebrations in Europe would you book first?

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Cities such as London, Bristol, and Berlin definitely lead the way with their long established scenes. What’s amazing to see is the growth of street art in cities not typically associated with the art form. Street art is exploding across Europe now, and more and more people appreciating the way it transforms their hometowns. It all means good news for us, the traveller.

Street art tourism is alive and well. Factoring in a day of exploring a well worn route or simply getting lost in a street art neighbourhood, is now becoming a must on any city break itinerary. What city will you see next?

The 30 Best Cities to see Street Art in Europe

Waterford, Ireland

Waterford might not be the first city name on everyone’s lips where street art in Europe is concerned, but I suggest it’s time to sit up and pay attention. The Waterford Walls festival is an annual event in August inviting the best of Ireland and the world to come and paint the cities walls.

The committee from Waterford Walls, led by Edel have done a tremendous job attracting so much talent. As it’s a small city, the result is there’s never a colourful wall far from you. Which means it’s great for wandering and seeing what you can find. Of course, you can follow my street by street guided tour.

The art starts from grassroots level thanks to local workshops, to Waterford’s own Coilfhionn Hanton who paints annually. Some of the most vibrant murals are as the result of Dan Leo, Curtis Hylton, Monkey Bird and Dan Kitchner who all brought their very distinctive work to the city. All artists are encouraged to paint as they wish, but many chose to draw from the history and fauna of Waterford.

One mural caught my eye prior to my visit and upon seeing first hand thoroughly lived up to expectations. Entitled Sonny, by the South African artist of the same name. The artist blends fantasy with the natural world in his work. The full wall features a girl in feather headdress with a white tiger. It’s wonderful.

Waterford is 2 hours from Dublin by both road and train and a must visit for street art fans.

Derry

By Tom from Travel Past 50

All along Rossville Street, in Bogside, Derry, Northern Ireland, are murals painted by a trio of artists collectively known as The Bogside Artists.

Tom Kelly, his brother William Kelly, and Kevin Hasson started painting the murals in 1993 to illustrate the “Troubles” in Northern Ireland, particularly those in Derry, which culminated on “Bloody Sunday” when, on January 30, 1972, British paratroopers killed 13 unarmed demonstrators.

The images are sometimes taken from photos taken on Bloody Sunday and during the “Battle of the Bogside.” Others are pure commemorations of hope, such as a dove on an oak leaf, symbolizing, at last, peace in Derry.

With supplies donated from local residents, the Bogside Artists painted the murals on the walls of Rossville Street buildings. From 1994 to 2008, they painted a total of twelve murals on this street in the Bogside, which they named The People’s Gallery.

The People’s Gallery spans the entire length of Rossville Street, which runs through the center of the Bogside, an entire street devoted to the history in art form of over three decades of political conflict.

Christiania Freetown in Copenhagen

by Anda from Travel for a While 

Christiania Freetown is a self-proclaimed independent area on Danish territory, within Copenhagen to be exact. It is home to less than 1000 people. Most of them are creative characters in search of a different life. They have a flag, a currency, and a voting system where every citizen takes part in the commune’s decisions.

One of the main reasons to visit Christiania is some amazing street art. You don’t need a map, it is literally all over the place. The abandoned military buildings of the area needed some color indeed. Also, the locals are blessed with a vivid, happy imagination. The skatepark inside Christiania Freetown is called Wonderland, and you couldn’t find a more suitable name for the place.

One of the most representative murals was done in 2016 by 5 artists. It represents the never-ending forest of purple Cats and 3D graffiti. Danish artist Rasmus Balstroem got together with Welin, Tonek, and 5.7 Crew.

Rasmus Balstroem is an incredible artist from Copenhagen who likes using freestyle drawing techniques. The two French artists from Montepellier, Sebastien (Sweo) and Marlene (Nikita) form the 5.7 Crew. Nikita likes to paint women in a warrior or fantasy style, while Sweo masters 3D letter-paintings.

Tonek is also a Danish artist. Tattoo art is his main thing, but he also enjoys graffiti and painting murals.

Andreas Welin is another Copenhagen-based artist. He worked extensively on murals spread from Melbourne, Australia to New York.

When these artists came together, they created an amazing mural that features all of their styles. Moreover, it captures the true Wonderland spirit of Christania.

Dundalk, Ireland

By John from CarpeDiemEire

Dundalk is the new pretender to Ireland’s street art throne. Following the same plan to attract talent, Dundalk runs an annual festival knows as Seek Dundalk. It only began in 2019, as a result of a collaboration between Dundalk Graffiti Artist and Graphic Designer Barry Finnegan (Omin) and Dundalk Town Centre Commercial Manager Martin McElligott. It’s aim of course was to make Dundalk, an outdoor art gallery.

They succeeded. Considering two of those years were hit by Covid restrictions, it’s quite amazing the amount of new works that have appeared. Dundalk is by no means a large city, and all of the art is within a stones throw of its main avenues.

Some of the legendary artists who have come to Dundalk and left their mark are Omin himself, Aches, James Earley, Fris, Claire Provost and Basik. This week, Ireland’s tallest mural was added by Smug, the world famous Australian artist,m. Standing 40 metres high on the Crowne Plaza hotel it depicts Lu, the god of light from Irish mythology. It promised to be another spectacular draw to Dundalk.

Our favourite piece was on Edward Bruce the disputed last High King of Ireland. He died at the Hill of Faughart not far from Dundalk. Using Aches special techniques of blending colour in a 3-d effect, the mural is astounding.

Keep an eye on Dundalk, it is destined to be among the best street art cities in Europe.

Street Art in Europe – Warsaw

By Or from My Path in the World 

Warsaw might not come to mind when thinking about European street art cities, but the Polish capital will not disappoint you. As a city of which 80% got destroyed during WWII, Warsaw makes a huge effort to preserve its history and heritage while also becoming more modern.

While you’ll find a mix of the traditional and modern on both sides of the Vistula River, it is on the eastern side of it, in the unique district of Praga, where most of the street art is found. Surprisingly, only 20% of this area was destroyed during WWII, so you can admire pre-war buildings alongside colorful murals and 21st-century townhouses.

Many of the murals in the city were created by different artists (both Polish and non-Polish), so each piece has its own style. Some of them are not to be missed, including ‘Eastern Warsaw’ by Sebas Velasco, ‘Playground’ by Ernest Zacharevic, ‘Warsaw Fight Club’ by Conor Harrington, and my favorite – ‘Ania.’

When you first look at ‘Ania,’ it looks so colorful and romantic that it immediately wins you over. But then you hear that it was created as a part of an advertisement produced for McDonald’s, which can be slightly disappointing, though it doesn’t take away from the piece’s beauty.

To fully enjoy and learn more about the local street art scene, one of the best things to do in Warsaw is to take a free walking tour in Praga, though you’ll also find some more murals in the neighborhood of Muranów.

Budapest

By John from CarpeDiemEire

Budapest’s offering as a street art city comes in the form of large murals, perhaps a recognition that it doesn’t have the history of some of the more famous city in that respect.

To visit most of the best murals pay a visit to the Jewish Quarter. You will anyway, it’s where the ruin bars are as well as the Dohany Street Synagogue. You can’t leave Budapest without having seen them, or in the case of the former, falling out of them. The Jewish district is as trendy as it gets in Budapest, so no surprise the street art is at its best there.

Wandering the streets of what was once the Hungarian Ghetto, you’ll find works by artists Dan Ferrer, Okuda San Miguel, the group Neopaint, Breakeone, and Cekas. Since 2008 the Colourful City Organisation have been responsible for bringing excellent artists here to ply their trade.

A particular standout is Alice by Spanish artist Dan Ferrer. In a car park on Kertesz Ut, we find Alice trapped in a small house in a bleak landscape, bruised and frightened. Carrying a message that children are our future and need to be nurtured, it’s brutally effective.

Just one of many murals to be found on a Budapest itinerary.

Lennon Wall in Prague

By Nina of Nina Out and About

One of the best street art cities in Europe is Prague.

The city is home to exceptional culture, having endured decades of communism and now a thriving democracy. You’ll find evidence of ancient kings at the Prague Castle, communist rule in demolished statues, and the flourishing free speech in its newer street art pieces. Within the city, there is a spinning head exhibit that is every shifting, just like human thoughts. But outside the city is a unique piece of art: the Kutna Hora Bone Church. The church was literally constructed from human remains, down to a chandelier with every bone from the human body.

The best spot for street art in Prague is undoubtedly at the Lennon Wall.

The wall began as an illegal graffiti wall during the communist reign. People began to paint on it to express themselves.

It started with small murals and doodles.

But the day that John Lennon died, it all changed.

The next morning, a giant mural dedicated to John Lennon went up on the wall. It featured the singer’s face and the addition of lyrics.

As the communist regime continued on, the wall became a way for the locals to express their frustration with the government and to express their desire for freedom.

While the original John Lennon portrait is long lost – especially since the government would repaint the wall frequently during the communist era – the wall continues to be a sign of hope.

Every time you visit, the wall will be different. Literally from one day to the next, the small signs for peace and pretty images will morph into something new thanks to a new addition.

You’ll easily stand there examining the wall for hours. Many buskers take advantage and play Beatles music in front of the mural. So bring a coffee and a few spare coins to tip the buskers as you soak in this gorgeous street art.

Manchester

By Helen from Helen on her Holidays

Manchester, in north west England, is a fantastic place to visit if you’re interested in street art. The city, in particular the Northern Quarter and Ancoats areas, has a history in recent decades of attracting some of the world’s best art talent to decorate its streets with murals, sculpture and mosaics.

The Northern Quarter part of Manchester used to be an area full of abandoned Victorian mills and warehouses until the 1990s, when it gradually became the most fashionable part of town, full of bars, loft apartments and alternative shops. It’s always been an area with its own character, and even its own font, which appears on street names and on the slabs in the pavement of Tib Street, where you can read the poem Flags by Lemn Sissay.

Manchester took part in the Cities of Hope street art festival in 2016, attracting nine street artists from around the world, including Nomad Clan (Cbloxxx and AYLO). Nomad Clan recently returned to Manchester to replace their Cities of Hope piece with a new work, Make Do Mend, which celebrates the city’s textile heritage.

In contrast to the large pieces which last for years, the Out House in Stevenson Square has a higher turnover of works that often appear spontaneously in response to news events, such as the death of David Bowie, the killing of George Floyd (both pieces by Akse) and the Manchester Arena bombing (by Qubek).

On a lighter note, a Manchester favourite is the giant blue tit on Newton Street, which was created by Faunagraphic in 2011 in a partnership with Converse.

Ljubljana

By Nicole from GoFarGrowClose.com

Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia. Ljubljana Old Town is a large historical district with pedestrian-only walking zones along cobblestone streets. You can find small boutique hotels along these paths that offer elegant rooms and old world charm. In addition, there are beautiful medieval churches scattered throughout and the imposing 12th Century Ljubljana Castle perched over top. If you are looking for the perfect old-world European experience, this is the place for you.

In striking contrast, after a short walk over The Ljubljana River, you find yourself in run down areas filled with squatters and spectacular street art. First, there is Rog Factory, a former bicycle manufacturing plant, where artists squat and produce fabulous paintings and sculptures making political or cultural statements.

A little farther along, you come across Metelkova, an independent social and cultural centre. It was formerly the military headquarters of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, then the Slovenian headquarters of the Yugoslav National Army. After Slovenia became independent, it was supposed to become a government sanctioned alternative art scene.

When that didn’t happen, the squatters moved in and became a vibrant artistic and cultural spot. To learn all about the history of Slovenia, specifically post independence, the evolution of the street art scene, and about the amazing murals and artists, consider taking a walking tour called Ljubljana Alternative Tour offered by Ljubljana Urban Tours. It is one of the best things to do in Ljubljana.

Berlin

By Ali from Berlin Travel Tips

Berlin is one of the best cities in the world for street art. The city is known for art and creativity, and street art has become an important part of the landscape. Some pieces commissioned works while others are illegally done.

Although you can find street art all over the city, Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg are two of the best neighborhoods to explore for impressive art. Of course there’s the East Side Gallery, a long stretch of the Berlin Wall that is now covered in art. This is one of the best free things to do in Berlin, especially if you’re interested in street art. 

Not far from there is the RAW-Gelände. This former train repair station now has restaurants, clubs, beer gardens, a flea market, and lots of street art. Here you’ll find pieces by Felix and Matthias, Marina Zumi, Ostap, Shepard Fairey, and more. The Urban Spree Art Gallery, which focuses entirely on street art, is also located here.

Across the river in Kreuzberg, you can follow the U1/U3 Ubahn tracks and detour a little here and there to see more famous pieces. There are several from Blu, ROA, Os Gemeos, Victor Ash, and more. 

One of the more interesting pieces here is a mural of dead or dying animals, a statement on how nature is dying as a result of over-urbanization around the world. Another famous piece worth checking out here is the Astronaut by Victor Ash. 

In western Kreuzberg, you can also visit the Urban National Museum. This fairly new addition to the Berlin art scene is dedicated to street art and has new artwork painted on the outside on a regular basis. 

Street art is easy to explore on your own. But a street art tour can give you loads of interesting information about the art and help you enjoy it more.

Stockholm

Dhara from It’s Not About the Miles

If you are a fan of public art, you will love Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, which is home to what is considered the longest art gallery in the world. 

Stockholm’s subway art is famous, not only for its color and scale, but also for the underlying themes of diversity, inclusion, and other social causes. Many of the city’s more than 100 subway stations feature stunning art, with entire tunnels covered in color. 

One of the most beautiful stations you can visit is Kungstradgarden, where the ceilings feature colorful art. At Fridhemsplan, you can view cool and quirky robot art. At Hallonbergen, child art with stick figures and childhood themes will captivate you. 

While Stockholm’s subway art is internationally renowned, it also features traditional street art in its various districts. 

Snosatra, Stockholm’s graffiti park, is the largest in Europe and a great place to visit if you are interested in street art but have limited time in the city. Here you can see the works of some of the city’s most well-known street artists such as Mogul and Huge.

If you enjoy the work of Os Gemeos, the Brazilian twins that have created gigantic murals in various cities across the world, you will find one in Stockholm to view! The mural, located in Fiskargatan, depicts persons created in their typical style, with beautiful colors.

Best Street Art Cities in Europe — Kyiv

Contributed by Inessa Rezanova, image by Natalie Rezanova, Through a Travel Lens Blog

Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, is eastern Europe’s heart of street art. First murals appeared in the city fairly recently — after the revolution of 2014, and initially, the locals were not all that thrilled.

But the outrage over what was perceived as vandalism of public property turned into admiration as soon as the first murals — among them, the iconic girl in traditional Ukrainian clothes — turned a few bleak buildings of the capital into colorful impressions of what today’s Ukraine is.

A mix of modern architecture and historic buildings of the 19th century, Kyiv has its fair share of Soviet apartment buildings. These are not exactly what most of the Ukrainians are fond of and much to the pleasure of the locals, it is these houses that became the canvases and main inspiration for the local artists as well as for the artists around the world. 

The capital’s arguably most popular mural — “The Girl in Vyshyvanka” — was created by the Australian artist, Guido van Helten. A dedication to Ukrainian women, this 53-meter long depiction of a young girl in traditional Ukrainian clothes almost made it to the Guinness World Records as the biggest European mural. Drawn on a wall of a building at Lesya Ukraininka street, it is now one of the area’s highlights.

As the artists continue to flock to Kyiv to paint the walls of the capital’s buildings, there are now plenty of beautiful murals in the historic center — the old town of Podil, as well as in the busy business area in Pechersk. Great street art can be spotted not only downtown but also in remote areas of the city. Fans of murals should also include areas like Obolon and Left Bank to the list of places to visit in Kyiv to enjoy the vibrant street art.

Rotterdam

By Zoe from Together in Transit

One cool place to find street art in Europe is the city of Rotterdam in the Netherlands. Unlike the rest of the Netherlands, Rotterdam is a unique city to visit due to its modern architecture. However, it still has many quirky locations with hidden gems and industrial street art locations. 

You may think there is one specific location for a city, but Rotterdam actually has many spots that you can explore and view the street art across the city. Some popular locations include street art at the Witte de Wit street, the Centraal station area and near an old factory called Maassilo in Rotterdam South. 

The best way to enjoy all these locations as well as find the hidden gems is to use the Rewriters010 street art or take a tour with them, where they provide interesting walks about each piece of art work during a walk. Many of the artists are Dutch, but there are also some international artists that have special pieces in the city too. Some artists to name are: Bier en Brood, Dan Botlek, I Am Eelco, TelmoMiel and Mark Goss.

For the last few years, the PowWow street art festival has also held an event here. During the weekend there are live graffiti artists completing their new artwork in the city as well as on cars and vans. There are tours available to walk along many of the street art routes to learn more as well as activities at the event location.

My favourite personal photo is a piece by I Am Eelco in gorgeous purples, yellows and greens. His style has always been one of my favourites from Rotterdam due to the overlapping style and animals pictured in the artwork.

Reykjavik

By Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

Reykjavík, Iceland has a wealth of colourful and thought-provoking street art. The majority of its murals are located in Reykjavík’s downtown (or “Old Town”), making a self-guided walking tour of many of the murals very easy to do in an afternoon.

Some of the murals were commissioned by local businesses, while others are the result of a bigger project called Wall Poetry. This project was a collaborative effort between Urban Nation, a contemporary art collective based in Berlin, and Iceland Airwaves, Iceland’s largest music festival. Ten musicians performing at the 2015 Iceland Airwaves festival provided song titles, lyrics, quotes, stories, or poetry that influenced their music to ten artists working on the murals. The initiative was a way of connecting music and art – an initiative that was so well-received, that the project was implemented again the next year.

For example, this particular piece, painted by Canadian tattoo artist and illustrator Heather McLean, is inspired by a song called “A Hundred Ropes” by Minor Victories. Notice how the locks of the woman’s hair become the waves on a stormy sea.

One of the challenges for street art in Reykjavík is the rapid speed at which the city is growing. Everywhere you look there are construction cranes, as old buildings are demolished to make way for new shops, hotels and businesses. Some of the street art painted on the sides of buildings are disappearing as empty lots are filled in. And while the very nature of street art is that it is not meant to be permanent, it’s a shame to see some of the art disappear. Luckily, the spirit of street art in Reykjavík is going strong, with no signs of slowing down even as the city expands.

Plovdiv

By Anda from Travel for a While

The first thing you find out about Plovdiv is that it is the oldest inhabited city in Europe. Being such an ancient place, you wouldn’t really imagine the real young vibe it has.

There are plenty of reasons to visit Plovdiv. Among them, well-preserved Roman ruins and traditional painted houses in the Old Town. Besides them, you will also find coffee shops, craft beer places, and great food. Another reason to visit is the street art in Plovdiv. Street art is virtually everywhere in Plovdiv. From underway passages to garbage bins and school walls, you will find graffiti and murals in many places.

The best places to find some great street art pieces are the trendy Kapana neighborhood and the area behind the drama theater. The street behind the theater was transformed in just one week, during the Street Art Fest of 2013. Climb the stairs behind Milo the Crazy’s statue to find this hidden gem of Plovdiv.

Kapana is a much larger area where artists are frequently commissioned to bring new life to the old walls. Start exploring with the heart of Kapana and admire the three large murals. Then, walk on the small streets to find smaller pieces in the most unexpected places.

One of my favorite pieces in Plovdiv is ‘МИР’ (Peace) by Nasimo. A Bulgarian artist, by his real name Stanislav Trifonov, Nasimo has been painting walls since 1995. He is one of the most active and popular Bulgarian artists. 

Peace is a mural composition, the biggest in Bulgaria. Nasimo started working on it in 2015 and has added pieces a few times since. He aims to inspire love and peace, the food our souls need.

Best street art cities in Europe – Łódź

By Ania from The Travelling Twins

I’m going to tell you how great street art in Łódź has become over the years. What started as an act by Polish artists against communism became something so much more than that. It was an act of defiance against all odds and now it’s an integral part of what makes Łódź so special.

Today, nearly forty years after the first street art appeared in Łódź, street art here not only symbolizes freedom of speech but has become one of the main attractions for visitors to the city. The local authorities support street artists and Łódź is proud of its legendary murals.

Murals in Łódź which has been started by local artists now attracted big names like Aryz and Os Gemeos brothers (ul. Roosevelt 5), Aryz or Eduardo Kobra with a mural of famous Polish Pianist Arthur Rubinstein, who was born in Łódź.

Besides painted murals, you can find in Lodz as well cool installations on the wall where using negative space effect and half a tonne of nails artist Łukasz Berger created the word “CISZA” (Silence)

Unfortunately, some of the cool ones like big surrealistic graffiti done by French artist Remed was reprinted with boring medical advertisements. But still, many empty building faces are waiting for new murals.

When you plan to visit Łódź its one of the great things to do is to discover the town by searching for interesting murals.

Bucharest

By Vanessa from Traveling Ness

Romania might not be the first country you think of for street art in Europe but the capital of Bucharest is bursting with art murals and cool graffiti around every corner! Bucharest has a European charm without the crowds often referred to as “Little Paris”.

Since the end of communism, Romanians used street art and graffiti as a way to express themselves in the new wake of independence. By exploring the various street art, you are walking through a visual story tied with bits of Bucharest’s history.

Some of Bucharest’s street art is very hidden and in other areas, you can’t help but notice it. The main areas to spot the best street art in Bucharest is around Old Town, in the Piata Romana neighborhood off of Strada Pictor Arthur Verona and the North Railroad Station area.

Top artists that have painted the walls of Bucharest with some really cool street art are Pisica Patrata (Alexandru Ciubotariu), Vhils, Sweet Damage Crew, Obie Platon, and Benr.

My favorite murals in Bucharest are done by Sweet Damage Crew that consists of a group of artists. The first mural is hidden in a courtyard of an outdoor movie screen, known as Creart. 

It is of a man sitting on a TV looking up at the moon with rich shades of blue and purple that is a few stories tall! As it is on private property, ask if you can go in or attend one of the movie viewings held there.

The other top mural by Sweet Damage Crew is Make a Point, depicting a woman drawing on a piece of glass she is holding. You can find Point on Strada General Eremia Grigorescu 10. No matter what area of Bucharest you explore, you are bound to find plenty of epic urban art during your stay!

Kaunas, Lithuania

By Tal from Bright Nomad Travel Blog

Kaunas, Lithuania, is a lesser known destination with a great street art scene waiting to be discovered.

One of the most famous pieces of street art in the city is called The Wise Old Man. It’s a huge mural in a very central location, close to Kaunas Castle, on the wall of an old shoe factory.

It’s a painting of a well known local artist called Jurgis Maciunas, a historic figure who was the father of the Fluxus art movement. The city embraced this mural and it has become one of its symbols.

Another great spot for street art is called The Yard Gallery. Located inside a residential yard and initiated by one of the residents, this gallery has a wonderful collection of murals and installations by local street artists. It’s a place that’s fun to explore.

Not far from the yard, you’ll find another famous piece of art, an eye-catching mural of a massive pink elephant. 

You can see many more pieces of street art, including some very impressive murals, scattered around the city. Many of them are legal and commissioned by the city, which appreciated both the art and the artists. To discover them easily, you can pick up a beautiful illustrated street art map from the tourist information centre in the city hall.

Barcelona

By Ignacio from Tango and Rakija

The city which gave birth to art characters such as Miro, Dali, Gaudi and Picasso is obviously a good city for hunting street art.

You will quickly realize that even without a map and just strolling around the city you will step into a world of graffiti and many forms of street-art.

Luckily, this time you won’t have to think much but just enjoy it. These are, according to us, the MUST SEE places for a deep-dive in street-art culture of Barcelona.

You should start visiting one of the oldest pieces of art in the walls of the city – Keith Haring’s mural. It was painted in 1989 on a very old building in the Raval neighbourhood which nowadays is the MACBA museum. Painted in red, the colour of blood, this mural contains all Haring’s  classic  iconography: children, life, sex, death and his fight against AIDS.

Since you are already in the Raval area you can visit one of our favorite ones in the city. A mysterious couple of artists which IG is @me_lata. Just walk around El Raval and you will find their art mostly everywhere.They do art with empty cans and write quotes and thoughts on them. 

Not far from the Raval, in the area of Poble Sec you can go to The Three Chimneys urban park and sit to enjoy art creation in real time. This is one of the favourite playgrounds of Barcelona’s street artists (both professional and amateur) owing to the fact that it is one of the city’s only purpose-built graffiti parks.The walls on the park are part of the initiative called Murs Lliures in catalan (‘free walls’), urban areas distributed around the city that the artists can reserve for a specific date and do their magic. The good thing is that the art on the walls changes mostly every week. 

If you love Barcelona, you love Miro, if you love Miro you will love this huge graffiti. In the corner of C/Sant Pau and C/ de la Riereta you can see perhaps one of Barcelona’s most iconic pieces of street art, the large mural on the corner is a tribute to the famous Catalan artist Joan Miró. 

To wrap-up your visit to this area of Barcelona we suggest you to go to the street Carrer Selva de Mar between Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes and Av. Diagonal. Here you will see many graffitis from different artists in all possible colors and shapes. It’s a 20 min walk or less full of vibrant street-art.  

For our next proposal you need to think big because this is a huge mural. Just on the front wall of an old building called  La Carbonería which stands the title of the oldest building in the area of Eixample, it’s so old that it is protected by the council. Meaning it can’t be destroyed or altered in any significant way. Formerly a coal company that was abandoned and after some years it was squatted for many others before its residents were finally evicted in 2014. To find this fantastic and historical piece of street-art you need to go to the intersection of Urgell and Floridablanca. 

In order to stay in tune with murals you cannot miss a visit to the huge collage called 

The Shark. It’s a three-metre-long shark made of paintings of €100 notes at the top of El Carmel. In 2008, Blu, artist from Bologna, did. ‘El Tiburón’ as a reminder of Spain’s political corruption. The controversy behind this art expression was enormous, nevertheless, The Shark is standing there after many years.

Our last suggestion of the day is that you take a walk till Turó del Carmel, a park full of walls with graffiti from many different artists. You have a graffiti wall that runs the length of Camí de Can Móra to enjoy. It’s around 500m long.

And, the best part about street art in Barcelona is that, this is not all. If you just walk around the streets of the city, you will find true pieces of art in almost every corner.

Athens

Chrysoula from Athens and Beyond

Athens is a city known for its rich history with the many archaeological sites scattered in every corner, the tasty cuisine, and the vibrant nightlife. In the last years, the city has seen an increase in the number of murals from creative street art artists, many of which are students in the Athens School of Fine Art.

There are many neighborhoods one can admire street art, but the most popular ones include Monastiraki, Exarchia, Psiri, and Keramikos. All these areas are located in the city center and are easily accessible to tourists on foot.

An alternative way to admire the most famous murals is to take a guided tour offered by various companies.

One of the most famous Greek street art artists with many works around Athens and various cities around the world is INO with his large-scale black and white murals. Some of his well-known works include “Access control”, “Clock Work”, and “Wake Up”. 

One of my favorite murals in Athens is the one of Loukanikos, a stray dog that got famous during the protest marches against anti-austerity measures in downtown Athens. After his death, the street art artists Martinez, N. Gramms, and Smart created a big mural in his honor in the Psiri neighborhood. The mural depicts the dog in a scene of riots and flames and there is also an epigraph that says: “We were struck by tear-gas together” and also “All Dogs go to Heaven”.

While exploring Athens, keep your eyes open for some amazing street art.

Rome

By Claudia Tavani from Strictly Rome

Rome is a fantastic city for street art, and you can easily admire many interesting pieces in several areas of the city. Street art in Rome helped convert neighborhoods that were once burdened by petty crime into much better places with live (and free) art galleries that anybody can visit.

There are several neighborhoods in Rome where visitors can admire street art. One of them is Quadraro, a bit outside of the center of Rome but easy to reach by metro. Others are Testaccio and neighboring Ostiense, a 30 minutes walk from the Colosseum; or Pigneto and San Basilio.

Rome’s latest street art project, however, is in the area of Tor Marancia, further south of the Colosseum (about one hour walk). It was only in 2015 that the walls of Viale Tor Marancia were completely turned into an art gallery, with 20 international artists working for 70 days in a row to change the face of many buildings within the “Big City Life” project. More than 20 murals were painted.

The most notable mural in Tor Marancia is “The Weight of History” by Argentine-Italian artist Jaz. It portrays an Argentine wrestler holding an Italian wrestler on his shoulder and it represents the tight connection between Italy and Argentina.
The best way to enjoy street art in Rome is via a guided walking tour. Several companies run good ones around the city.

Glasgow, Scotland

By Rachel from Average Lives

Undeniably, Glasgow is one of the best street art cities in Europe.  The city is a former fishing village and will welcome you with green spaces, museums, architectural wonders and a fantastic food scene.  

If that was not enough, over the past 14 years, Glasgow’s once tired and empty buildings have transformed thanks to some gifted street artists. There is now a famous ‘Mural Trail’, which should be on a Glasgow itinerary. The trail was named one of the most exciting things to do in the world on Time Out’s DO List for 2020 and is the perfect way to brighten up any day. 

The Mural Trail showcases the diverse art from primarily local artists and can be reached on foot from the city centre. The unique works help to bring colour to the city. They are often described as murals for everyone, from radical, to conservative, to unusual or narrative-based. 

You can see the murals on a self-guided tour with the help of the Mural Trail website, or you can go on a tour with a local artist to learn more about each one and its significance. The trail is 5-miles in total and would take around 3-hours to complete, but many people complete sections at a time over a couple of days. 

One of the most famous and exciting murals is named Saint Mungo and was created by the artist Smug (Sam Bates), who is originally Australian but lives in Glasgow. It is a photo-realistic mural finished in 2016 and is on the gable end of High Street. It was crafted freehand and depicted the patron Saint of Glasgow with a small robin – an indication of the story of the Bird That Never Flew.

Naples

By Danila from Travelling Dani.

Naples is a lovely city in Southern Italy, which lies next to the sea.

While most of the world identifies Napoli with the delicious Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven, us locals know that our city hides a pretty colorful treasure.

Street art is well hidden and it always represents our feelings or the important people who have had a great impact on the whole region. Among the best things to do in Naples (Italy), hunting for murals is one of the top 3. You can do it for free: it’s cheap, fun and it will let you discover the hidden side of Naples.

The most popular mural in Naples is dedicated to the one football player that has forever changed our city: Diego Armando Maradona.

The local stadium has been named after the Argentinian player when he died by the end of 2020.

The Maradona murale dates back to 1990, when the Naples Soccer Team won the Italian “Scudetto” thanks to Diego. It was restored in 2016.

You can visit it for free: find it at Piazzetta Diego Armando Maradona, in Naples.

The popular Maradona murale was painted by a local artist who was just 23 at the time, Mario Filardi. He wasn’t a street artist, but he so felt inspired by the player who had managed to bring glory to Naples, that he decided to try his hand at painting.

This has soon become the most popular street art in Italy.

Another very famous and huge mural was created by the artist Jorit Agoch, who is pretty active in Naples.

It represents San Gennaro, the patron saint that every Neapolitan loves. He is believed to have stopped the lava when Mount Vesuvius erupted, thus “saving” Naples from destruction.

The “Gennaro” mural covers the entire side of an historical building in Piazza Crocelle ai Mannesi, in Forcella, next to the Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore.

Lyon

By Leyla from Offbeat France

While French cities have their share of informal street art, Lyon’s monumental murals are famous not only throughout the country but around the world.

While each is unique and meaningful, perhaps the one that best encapsulates the mural story and the history of Lyon is the “Mur des Canuts”, or the Wall of Silk Workers. This massive fresco sits above Lyon on Croix-Rousse Hill, which was once home to the many weavers who turned Lyon into Europe’s capital of silk for five centuries from the Renaissance onwards.

This particular mural depicts everyday life in Lyon in a naïve art style that might make you look twice to see if this is actually a mural – or real life. Many others follow the same pattern, highlighting a moment in history, or the faces of famous Lyonnais. 

Other murals have little to do with reality, picturing scenes from entertainment or even science fiction.

It matters little: all were born from a desire to bring art to poorer neighborhoods of the city and were the brainchild of a small group of rebellious art students who created a cooperative, CitéCréation, in the 1980s after being inspired by murals during a school trip to Mexico. The Mur des Canuts was their first creation and involved the local community in its design.

Today, the cooperative is so well known it receives commercial offers to undertake murals around the world, which its artists do, but they never forget their origins and continue to populate Lyon with delightful scenes. They have even opened a school for muralists-in-waiting, paving the way for the future generation.

Bristol

By Claire from Go South West England

Whether you’re spending a weekend in Bristol or are here for a longer time, one of the best things to do is see its beautiful street art!

Bristol is the home of Banksy who is possibly the world’s most famous street artist – so it’s no surprise that it’s one of the best places in Europe for street art!

Banksy is an anonymous street artist – he leaves his work with his signature style on walls, but nobody actually knows who he is! You’ll find his art all over Bristol. Often, it’ll have a meaningful message, as he addresses topics like war and inequality. 

Other times, he’ll mention current issues in his art but have a comic twist, such as his famous “mild, mild west” artwork in Stokes Croft which features a teddy bear throwing a cocktail at riot police and alludes to the illegal parties that were held in the city in the 1990s. 

Bristol street art certainly isn’t just Banksy though. The entire city is covered in a mishmash of murals and poignant art pieces – it’s like walking around an outdoor art gallery. While Banksy’s work is usually black and white, many other pieces are full of colour and vibrance. 

Stokes Croft is one of the best areas to walk around for street art. From expansive colourful murals to smaller pieces reminding you that “hate is foolish” and to “think local, boycott Tesco”, there’s loads to look at here!

Another awesome spot is North Street in Southville. This is the location for the street art festival Upfest, and nearly all of the road’s buildings have beautiful murals! Most poignant is perhaps outside Aldi, where Greta Thunberg’s face, half-covered in water from rising sea levels, looks down on shoppers – reminding you to make sustainable choices with your shopping.

Belfast

By Faith from XYU and Beyond

Northern Ireland and particularly artists in Belfast have a long history of representing and reflecting their troubled history in street art. 

Street art and political activism have always gone hand in hand but in 1998 when the Peace Accord was signed a new kind of street art began appearing on the walls of Belfast.  

You can still find many of the murals that depict “The Troubles” in neighbourhoods separated into Catholic and Protestant areas. From murals of Bobby Sands who died while on hunger strike, to a mural of the Women’s Quilt with words relating to women and the roles they play in communities. 

These days artists have taken to the streets of Belfast to bring new life into areas of the city that were run down and abandoned and have now been transformed turning Belfast into a street art mecca like London, New York and Berlin. 

The new street artists include Joe Caslin whose piece of two women kissing drew attention to the LGBTQIA community with the hashtag #lovewins.

In stark contrast to the political murals some of the best street art is found in the Cathedral District. Exhibiting work by world-renowned artists this area is stunningly colourful with work by Kev Largey (aka KVLR), Pang, Christina Angelina’s (aka StarFighteraA) and James Earley.

My favourite piece though is the one called Lobster Pot by the Australian street artist Sam Bates, also known as Smug. Smug is recognized around the world as one of the masters of Photorealism.

You can take a walking tour of Belfast’s street art that was created and led by local artists who have driven the street art scene in Belfast. This two hour walking tour will take you through the ever changing street art scene in the City.

Lisbon

By Berkeley Square Barbarian

Lisbon is a fun weekend destination. You can easily spend a few days exploring the different neighbourhoods sprawling across the hills and valleys. Street art here started with political murals after the revolution of 25 April 1974.

Few cities offer more exciting street art than Lisbon. This is even more impressive considering its relatively small size compared with many of its competitors. The city actively encourages and supports street art (within boundaries). You will find graffiti and murals everywhere around town.

Alfama, the cobble-stoned ancient neighbourhood between the river and the castle, with its steep, crooked alleyways, sports many of the best-known works of street art.

Glória Funicular leading up to Bairro Alto features the fabulous Street Art Gallery. Every once in a while a jury established by the City Council invites dozens of street artists to paint the hundreds of metres of wall for a limited period of time. Graça, Chiado, and Belém have no lack of amazing murals.But no place is more exciting than Mouraria. Among others, a multi-level car park was decorated by various street artists.
Famous local artists include Nuno Saraiva, Vhils, Odeith, Tamara Alves, and Bordalo II. That said, artists from all over the world have visited Lisbon and left some of their works on the walls. Shepard Fairey, Os Gemeos, Utopia63, Blu, SAM3, Andrea Tarli, and Kobra are a few of the more prominent names.

My favourite mural has to be the one on the Escadinhas de São Cristóvão in Mouraria, which was created by a number of different artists. It celebrates the musical tradition of Fado. True, it is not particularly aesthetic. However, you can see that it was a work of love and it gets enthusiastic reactions by almost everyone who passes by it.

London

By Rose at Where Goes Rose?

London is a world-class city whatever you’re into. The street art is no exception and arty travellers to London will be spoilt for choice by the number of alternative neighbourhoods covered in colourful murals.

To find the best street art in London, you’ll want to escape the city centre which is better known for mainstream tourist attractions and shopping districts. Two of the best street art districts in London are Camden and Shoreditch.

In Shoreditch, make a beeline for the Brick Lane street art. Wentworth Street, Fashion Street and Heneage street are known for their colourful murals by artists including ARTiSTA, Benslow and SHOK-1.

Don’t miss the secret unnamed alleyway beside Saffron Restaurant. Here you’ll find a host of socially-conscious art with messages such as ‘more love, less theft’.

Another mural not to miss in Shoreditch is the enormous crane (bird) on Hanbury Street. This is one of the largest and most detailed pieces of street art in the area.

Over in Camden (North London), you can find street art dotted along Kentish Town Road, Bayham Street, Buck Street and Castlehaven Road to name but a few. 

Hawley Mews is an enclave off Hawley Street, completely covered in vibrant street art. Artists regularly change the art here so you never know what you might find.

There are numerous murals dedicated to the late Amy Winehous who called Camden home. In the Stables Market, you’ll also find an arty, lifelike statue dedicated to her.

Birmingham

By Richard from RJ on Tour

Digbeth in Birmingham is also known as the creative quarter and is a lovely place to hang out. Birmingham is the second largest city in the UK and there are lots of things going on, including the 2022 Commonwealth Games. They adorned the Digbeth area with lots of nice street art throughout, including any spare walls and in most of the bars. The area is a great place for nightlife, dining out or just for a walk to admire the art on the buildings.

The best area of Digbeth to see is the streets near the Custard Factory, specifically Floodgate Street and Gibb Street. To see the more up-and-coming artists, take a stroll along the canal. There are some fantastic examples on boards and walls as you stroll along.

Two of the most prominent artists in the city are Gent 48, who does some very intriguing work. The other that pops us all over the place is Annatomix, whose art usually includes theor distinctive fox. My favourite Annatomix piece is along the canal path, the art really enhances the dark drab warehouses. There are many other artists in the area, and the standard is pretty high.

Bars like Zumhof Biergarten and Nortons have some outstanding pieces in their beer gardens. They are both great places for a night out or an afternoon drink. Although Digbeth is by far the best area for street art, the nearby China Town has some great political pieces too.

Which of these street art in Europe cities is next on your agenda? Save a pin for future reference.

Perhaps it was a lot to ask of Thessaloniki to follow up Meteora and the Vikos Aoos National Park. I’d had an astounding three days exploring those areas in Northern Greece. Meteora is one of the most exceptional places in Europe, and the little-known national park is well up there too. After my initial disappointment at the city and a little internal to-and-fro, I made an old-fashioned church and street art hunt my purpose while in Thessaloniki. Of course, the title says disappointment and redemption. So before we get to the good, I have to tell the story of why the city got me down.

Driving was a headache

As I rolled into the city, I took an instant dislike. It seemed dirty, loud, and rundown. I was immediately delighted I’d only decided to spend one day there. What a blessing that was. I had at random picked a car park near the white tower to use, but when I tried to enter it I was chastised by a woman. An SUV came up the ramp towards me. Clearly, it was the exit, and I was another one of those tourists who had no idea where I was going. The bane of locals going about their everyday lives.

I circled the block searching for the actual entrance. Only to come to the conclusion that I actually had been right in the first place. So why then did I face the wrath of a local? Why also was an SUV on the entrance ramp? Confused and a little scared, I set off and found another car park, where valet parking and daylight robbery were practiced.

Worse was to follow. While it would have been easier to leave the car in the car park (or better still abandon it), I had to get it back to my hotel, the Mandrino Hotel, and the promise of free parking. It was only a matter of minutes away according to Google Maps. How hard could it be? Well…

First of all, let’s throw some road works into the mix. Even google maps couldn’t get its head around them and try as I might I couldn’t find a way to get towards the hotel. Then there were the one-way streets! Of course, I ended driving the wrong way up some of them, to the chagrin of other drivers. Should I mention the roundabouts? I’ve driven through roundabouts all over Europe and they all follow the same rules. Get on the roundabout, circle around, take your exit, easy as pie. Not here! I faced wrath for not moving around the roundabout quick enough. Then I was abused for not letting someone on in front of me. Head scratching!!

Eventually, I managed to reach my hotel, a full 40 minutes later than expected, and let out a sigh of relief as I left the car behind for the day.

So now that we have established that public transport is a good idea in Thessaloniki, lets move on.

The Roman Agora was a backache

While I can’t really point the finger of blame at Thessaloniki for this one, the Roman Agora left me with a huge backache. But it did leave a bitter taste in my mouth. On my second day in the city grey clouds replaced the sunny skies I had seen for my holiday so far, and the weather was a little more of what I am familiar with. Of course, rain means one thing, doesn’t it. Things are usually a little more slippy.

I had wandered around in the morning, waiting for the Agora to open, and left it as my last thing to do. It’s a huge site, built in the 2nd century, and its excavation has seen the amphitheater and corridors restored. Underground there’s a decent museum with a good deal of artifacts excavated from the site.

Mostly in ruins, the different levels are connected by metal ramps, which don’t take kindly to inclement weather. The staff though are vigilant and try to cordon them off. So only a person holding an umbrella and using their phone while walking could be stupid enough to walk down them.

Step up me!

After a few minutes of writhing in agony, I realised no one was coming to help me, and pulled myself to my feet. Perhaps unwisely, I continued touring the Agora. The walk back to the hotel was rough. Getting to the airport with my luggage was even worse. The flight home was complete torture. That little “stunt” earned me a week off work. If only I had held onto my stick from Meteora…

When attractions aren’t so attractive

My first port of call was the White Tower. It’s Thessaloniki’s big attraction overlooking the bay. Impressive architecture on the exterior, its winding stairs led to five floors of archaeological museum exhibits. But ultimately all it is is a tower. I’m a big fan of a good museum, but a bad museum, I’d rather give a wide pass to. It didn’t take many floors of that big windy circular staired tower to realise, that the stairs held more interest than the exhibits. The roof had excellent views but I left with a certain sense of disappointment. Maybe they could try a lean; it worked for Pisa.

As I walked the centre an anticlimactic feeling overcame me. If the city’s big attraction wasn’t all it was copped to be the what hope was there? It was at this point I took a step back and focused on the churches and street art. Turns out they are an even better attractions than the Agora or the Tower. Here’s the best of them.

Thessaloniki Churches

The Rotunda

Let’s start with the best, and the oldest. Built by Roman emperor Galerius in the 4th century as a temple, the church has survived 1700 years. It reminded me of the Pantheon in Rome, with a huge dome that its 30 metres high at its central point. The walls are 6 metres thick, which has made the Rotunda earthquake proof. After the fall of the Roman empire it was converted to a church, and that is when its extraordinary mosaics were added. It’s incredible how long they have adorned the ceiling of this structure.

During the Ottoman occupation of the 14th century it served as a mosque also, and a minaret attests to this. To this day, it still functions as a church on certain occasions. Incredible. The Rotunda is the recipient of a UNESCO World Heritage Site award. Thessaloniki was looking up.

Agios Georgiou Church

This little church is right beside the Rotunda. It’s an Eastern Orthodox church, and has a pretty entrance and little bell tower. In fact its so small that’s all I could learn about it. Moving on…

Holy Church of Panagia Dexia

Visitors to this 20th century Byzantine church on Dikastirion Square will be treated to a remarkable interior. It’s what you expect of a Byzantine church in this part of the world, with murals in excellent condition. It’s well lit too, so suits photographers, as this can often be a issue in the more darkly lit older churches.

Church of the Transfiguration of the saviour

 This tiny little church is one of 15 Paleo-christian and Byzantine churches in the city of Thessaloniki that are considered UNESCO World Heritage Sites. You’ll find the Church of the Savior on Egnatia Street, unusually surrounded by modern buildings. But it doesn’t take away from it. The church and its interior wall paintings are dated to the 14th century, but an earthquake in 1988, brought to light some new discoveries to suggest it might be older. It is suspected that it was part of a larger monastery structure, and may have been a funerary monument. It survived the Ottoman invasion without any changes, as it was considered too small to change.

Church of St Demetrius

The Church of St Demetrios is dedicated to the patron saint of Thessaloniki. It is also part of the Palaeochristian and Byzantine Monuments of Thessaloniki. The church marks the place where Saint Demetrius was martyred in the 4th century, in the crypts below. This was once a Roman bath, and it is still accessible to this day. While the church was famous for mosaics, these were significantly destroyed in a fire of 1917. A few have survived as has the iconostasis. Still intact though is the unusual ciborium (new word for the day), a hexagonal domed structure that is found to the side of the nave. It symbolically commemorates the saint. Inside is a bed. I’ll be honest I thought it was a tomb. Need to work on my Greek.

Church of Panagia Chalkeon

Falling into the bracket of the 11th century Thessaloniki Churches is the Church of Panagia Chalkeon. This one is famed too for the frescos that got away. Most have fallen down, with only a few still standing the test of time. It’s history follows the same timeline of others too Church-Mosque-Earthquake-Rebuilt.

Hagia Sophia Cathedral

A church has stood on the site of the Hagia Sophia (otherwise known as Agia Sophia) since the third century, but the one seen today dates to the 8th. It was modeled on the Hagia Sophia church in Instanbul. Naturally it went through the same transformations as the other Thessalonki churches in the city, as it bounced from church, to mosque, and back again.

The interior decoration is more muted than in others locally, with many of its gold mosaics plastered over following the fire, and then earthquake. Doesn’t mean its not worth a visit though, and its dome mosaic is one of the few surviving from earlier times. It depicts the ascension, surrounded by the holy apostles, the virgin Mary and Angels.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of Thessaloniki churches, and as the Palaeochristian and Byzantine Monuments of Thessaloniki comprises 15 different sites, doing it all in a 24 hour visit would be exhausting. Regrettably I didn’t get to see the Vlatadon Monastery in the Ano Poli in upper town, a large complex known for its brilliant mosaics. I was too busy “falling” for Thessaloniki. While I did get to Agios Nikolaos Orphanos (pictured below), I didn’t get there within its limited opening hours. With time it’s worth seeking out the 5th century Church of the Acheiropoietos, the Saint Gregory Palamas church, and the Church of Agioi Apostoloi.

While it’s not a church, this boat that offers tours is worth a mention. A thing of beauty. It’s one of a number of excellent tours and excusions from Thessaloniki, which can be booked through Get Your Guide below. They are one of our corporate partners, and using the link will earn me a small commission, at no extra cost to you.

The Best Ancient street art

The Roman emperor Galerius commissioned an arch to be built in his honour, and his victory in a battle in the late 3rd century. Not vain at all. It linked directly to the Rotunda at this time. The Arch of Galerius is a magnificent structure, 12.5 metres high and featured 8 pillars. Marble was used for the relief on the pillars, and the scenes depict the victory of the Romans over the Persians. It’s quite something.

Thessaloniki Street art City

A quick on the ground Google search brought up a map of the local street art. If that map still exists I can’t find it. Whether the art below still exists is another question, street art is a constantly evolving feature of modern cities. What isn’t in doubt is that the street art of Thessaloniki is excellent. Huge murals cover the sides of many buildings, while some streets seem to be the hub for local artists. I’m not going to profess to being an expert on the local art scene, I personally didn’t understand much, but appreciated it nonetheless. For those interested in walking in my footsteps I have included the street location in the description on each of the murals. For those who prefer to be led to their street art there is a local company providing street art tours. I can’t vouch for them, but I’m happy to recommend. This is the best of the street art I myself uncovered on my 24 hours in Thessaloniki.

Where to stay in Thessaloniki

After hunting Thessaloniki churches and street art all day, you need a good bed to rest that head. I stayed at the Mandrino Hotel, a solid budget option perfect for an overnighter. The city isn’t short on options, and is relatively cheap compared to the more touristic parts of Greece.

In the end, Thessaloniki may have won me over. It isn’t a city I’ll be charging back to, but I still consider myself richer for having visited. Would you consider visiting Greece’s other metropolis?

The Best European Road Trips

Europe Road Trips – The Causeway Coastal Route

Ireland has more than its fair share of excellent road trips. One that deserves its place on any list is the Causeway Coastal Route, a 212 km route that traces its way from Belfast to Derry, past some truly sensational scenery.

The coastal road trip itinerary can be completed in a day for those in a rush, but in honesty, it’s not a place to rush. At a minimum, two days should be spent exploring its many facets, while you could easily spend four or five here. At each end, Belfast and Derry are two very different cities, with both having played a significant part in the Troubles that afflicted Northern Ireland for several decades.

Beginning your trip by leaving Belfast, the attractions don’t really kick in until the coast beckons at Carrickfergus, and its foreboding castle. From there they come thick and fast, as you can see why Game of Thrones picked this area for much of its sets. Fans of the show will have to see the Dark Hedges, Cushenden caves and especially Dunluce Castle. It has one of the most haunting settings on the whole of the island.

The road itself is as much as an attraction following a route that opens up fantastic views of headlands and beaches. With a never-ending list of castles, national parks and attractions, those days on the road can be spent busy.

The north coast is where you’ll be looking to spend most of your time. Unmissable is the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, and the opportunity to test your fear of heights. All roads do ultimately lead to the Giants Causeway, the UNESCO World Heritage Site, that hardly needs an introduction. Every epic road trip needs its centerpiece and this geological phenomenon will not disappoint.

If you are planning on driving in Ireland, then my driving guide includes travel tips on driving on the left, car rentals, meeting random animals in the road, and a host of other unique Irish problems.

Road Trips Europe – The Ring of Kerry

At the other end of Ireland, in a county known as the kingdom by its locals, is another similar road trip. The Ring of Kerry is an 179 km loop through what is certainly the most beautiful part of Ireland. It’s a route that by rights needs four days to truly appreciate, but you can do the Ring of Kerry in as little as a two day road trip.

This epic European road begins in Killarney, and providing you haven’t enjoyed the town a little too much (it has a roaring nightlife), you should set out early. You will spend the first day just exploring around here, its lakes are the setting of the Killarney National Park, Muckross Abbey and House, and Ross Castle. No visit to Killarney is complete without a trip on a jaunting car with their talkative Jarveys.

On Day two we hit the road properly, as our road trip route climbs above the lakes. Take a walk to Torc Waterfall one of Ireland’s best hiking trails, before marvelling at the views from Ladies View and Molls Gap. The coastal town of Kenmare makes a good base for those looking to spend plenty of time on the Ring.

The next stage of this Ireland road trip travels through an area of coastal views and ancient ruins. For those that the weather plays fair with a visit to Skellig Michael is a must. Luke Skywalker retired here, so it has to be good.

There’s more still to the Ring of Kerry, as its wild side takes a back seat, and the return part of the loop passes through beautiful towns such as Waterville, Cahirciveen and Killorglin. There’s plenty of opportunity to stop and appreciate the Atlantic too, as Derrynane and Rossbeigh are some of the country’s best beaches.

The Ring of Kerry can be driven as part of the Wild Atlantic Way, which is a 2500 km route up the entire west of Ireland.

Iceland Ring Road

Contributed by Gary from changeofplan.co.uk

If you are looking for a circular road trip with an epic difference then look no further than Iceland. Most travellers arrive in Iceland through the international airport at Keflavik, just west of the island’s capital city, Reykjavik.

Assuming a clockwise navigation, you could divert west traversing a peninsula leading to the magnificent Snæfellsjökull, or slightly further north, head into the Western Fjörds.  Avoiding these options to save time could make your first stop the town of Akureyi. With all amenities and plentiful accommodation, it is an excellent base to explore some of the highlights in Northern Iceland.  Similarly, the Eastern fjörds are serviced by Egilsstaðir, the largest town in the region.  On the southern section, there are many options for accommodation compared to the rest of Iceland, from Höfn in the east across to Vik toward the west.

The whole Route 1 road trip takes you on a very special journey, passing lava fields, snow-capped mountains, geysers, thermal rivers, and glaciers to name but a few of the amazing sights.  Single carriageway roads dominate and you can travel long distances observing just a handful of other travellers.

Many of the attractions you can enjoy on the Route 1 circuit are natural wonders.  To the north,  Husavik and whale watching trips contrast against the traditional attractions like Goðafoss waterfall and the geothermal mud pools at Hverir.  You can enjoy hiking the East fjörds taking in the delightfully picturesque port town of Seydisfjordur or seal spotting on a coastal hike near Husey where you could meet their famous horses.  

Many highlights can be found on the southern section of Route 1.  For photographers, there is the spectacular headland at Stokksnes and the further west you enter ‘glacier’ country with Hoffellsjökull offering a less crowded experience than popular glacial tours.  The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon offers boat trips among the icebergs, with the delights of Diamond Beach a short walk away.  

As you head back toward Reykjavik, you have some amazing attractions, with Seljalandsfoss waterfall offering the opportunity to walk behind the wall of falling water.  Before arriving back in the capital, which is a destination in its own right, you can take a short hike to the Reykjadalur Thermal hot springs and bathe in the glorious heat of the thermal pools.  Whilst similar to the Blue Lagoon, it offers you a less ‘touristy’ experience.

A complete circuit of the island using Iceland’s Route 1 is approximately 1320km (820 miles), and dependent on your pace and itinerary, you could expect it to take between 7-10 days.

Southwest France Road Trip

Contributor:  Hannah from https://nouvelleaquitainetravel.com/

A road trip through the Southwest of France will take you from ancient pilgrimage sites to wine country, along the wild Atlantic Coast, and into the Basque Country on the border of Spain.  Unlike the saturated Mediterranean coast, the Southwest is a veritable feast of lesser-known sites and gorgeous road trip stops.

Start your journey in Bordeaux.  With a decent-sized international airport, Bordeaux benefits from good transport links and all the major hire-car companies.  Stop awhile in Bordeaux and St Emilion to partake in some wine education.  There is even a wine museum in Bordeaux, with a rooftop tasting room.

From Bordeaux, head inland along the Dordogne River valley.  The villages along this lush valley are steeped in religious history.  Some even form part of an old pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.  Stop at Brantôme and Périgueux to see ancient cathedrals and stunning architecture.  In the city of Périgueux there is a church designed by the same architect responsible for Sacre Cœur in Montmartre, Paris.

Spend some time exploring the Valley of the Five Châteaux in the Dordogne.  There are 5 castles within a few square miles, a remarkably concentrated area of medieval history.  Set aside 2-3 days to explore this part of the Dordogne.

Head south towards the Pyrenees mountains.  If history is your preference, then I suggest you visit Lourdes.  This pilgrimage town is said to have healing waters, and The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes is a spectacular cathedral.  If you want to see more of the Pyrenees, take a ride on the Train of Artouste, the highest narrow-gauge train in Europe.

After all this history and castle-hunting, you’ll be needing some sea air and nature.  Indulge in the glitz of Biarritz, chocolate in Bayonne, and the wild beaches of the Atlantic coast.  Finish your road trip of the Southwest of France by climbing the massive sand dune, the Dune of Pilat.

This route is approximately 2000 km and should take around 2-weeks.  If you have longer, you can add La Rochelle, Royan, and Ile de Ré to your itinerary.  While many flock to the glamourous Mediterranean coast; the Southwest has just as many quaint towns, beautiful ports and dynamic landscapes to explore.

The North Coast 500 of Scotland

By Clazz from An Orcadian Abroad

There are a lot of fantastic road trips in Scotland, but the one everybody’s talking about is just as good as everyone says it is: the North Coast 500. As the name implies, it takes in a 500-mile loop of the north coast of Scotland, exploring rugged landscapes and beautiful beaches that you can have all to yourself. Part of the attraction is the remote location, and there is something magical about the truly wild nature that the route takes you to.

Most people start and end in Inverness, or incorporate it into a larger Scotland road trip, and being a loop it’s easy to tackle it either clockwise or anti-clockwise. The North Coast 500 sure packs in a lot too, and I’d recommend around a week to complete it (though people have been known to do it in two or three days, I definitely wouldn’t recommend this!).

Some of the best stops on the North Coast 500 road trip include the now infamous Bealach Na Ba (translated to “pass of the cattle” – a steep, winding single track road), Ullapool, Achmelvich Beach, Smoo Cave, John O’ Groats with the nearby Duncansby Stacks, and Dunrobin Castle. In truth, there are endless viewpoints, castles, beaches, waterfalls, and even islands to visit on the route, along with world-class seafood and excellent wildlife from deer to dolphins. In the summer, you might spot puffins and even whales!

Assynt offers some of the best hiking in the country, while the very northwest coast of Sutherland rustles up some of the best beaches like Sandwood Bay and Ceannabeinne Beach. Wester Ross is full of even more great scenery around Torridon and Loch Maree, and the Black Isle is often overlooked but may just be your best chance to spot dolphins at Chanonry Point! Caithness puts you into neolithic territory, exploring cairns dating back thousands of years, and this can be continued with a trip to Orkney, a popular addition to the NC500 route.

The North Coast 500 covers some of Scotland’s most remote places, which means that many of the roads are single track which can be a challenge for drivers who haven’t driven on them before, and journeys are regularly delayed by road obstructions such as sheep and Highland cows. As with many road trips, this makes the NC500 as much about the journey as the destinations, which is just part of what makes it so great.

Outlandish Scotland Tour

Contributed by Sabine who can be found on Twitter @ararewoman

For fans of the series Outlander following the books by Diana Gabeldon you may want to explore Scotland on a fan tour to see the filming locations of the series.

Most of the locations are concentrated around the area of Glasgow and Edinburgh and usually within a days reach so you can start your journey either from Edinburgh or from Glasgow changing hotels only once. The cities are well connected by train or bus which is approximately 1hr 20 min drive.

In Glasgow visit John Street near George Square, Glasgow Cathedral, the cloisters at Glasgow University, Dowanhill Street, and Kelvingrove Park that served as Boston. Don’t forget St Andrew’s in the Square that on top of being used for Outlander filming was used by Bonnie Prince Charly as camp in 1745. You can find a lot of Outlander filming references in the locations by now that explain the sets. Or ask the friendly staff who are usually really excited about telling you the details.

Your first day tour takes you to Cumbernaud film studios, Ivy Cottage, Doune Castle and Drummond Castle and back to Glasgow. The second day tour will take you 2 hrs drive further north to see Kinloch Rannoch or Craigh na Dun, then return via Glencoe and Finnich Glen.

Day 3 will bring you to your next hotel in Edinburgh via Fannyside Mill, Calendar House, Bo’ness and Linlithgow Palace. (16)

Enjoy day 4 in Edinburgh strolling along the Royal Mile discovering Holyrood Palace, Bakehouse Close, Signet Library, Tweeddale Court and The World’s End pub.

Your next day tour will take you to Hopetown House and Midhope Castle that is Lallybroich. Continue to Blackness Castle before crossing the Firth of Forth to get to Culross to see the palace, the market and West Kirk.

Day 6 start very early for the 3 hr drive to Culloden battlefield monument. Visit the museum and return via Dysart Harbour and Aberdour Castle.

The next day start early to see the Highland Folk Museum 2 hr drive from Edinburgh and return via Tibbermore Church near Perth to Falkland. Stroll the streets and visit Falkland Palace before returning to Edinburgh.

A trip south on day 8 takes you to Glencourse House where you can see the wedding chapel. On the way back stop at Roslin Glen Country Park and Craigmillar Castle.

As some of the sites aren’t regularly open to the public you best contact them in advance for your planning. Coordinates and contact details can be found on one of the Outlander filming location sites.

You can add in usual tourist attractions and extend your journey. If you don’t want to drive yourself there are also tour companies offering guided trips for your convenience. Any queries contact @ararewoman via Twitter.

European Road Trip – Dolomites

Contributed by Patrick Kenny, who tweets at Beyond The Last Blue Mountain (@beyond_last) / Twitter, and is soon to publish his book about travelling in Central Asia, including a focus on orientalism and prejudice in historic travel writing of the region.

It’s a sonata, the atmosphere among the limestone crags of the Dolomites: the air is crisp, the scent of wildflowers flirts around the hills, and the world around you expands out in mighty high-definition.

Tectonic plates carved the cliffs and valleys – considered a World Heritage site – but humans have left their mark too; most importantly, they’ve marked out ribbons of tarmac that make this area of northern Italy a perfect road-trip destination for a five-to-ten day trip that will take you about 600km.

Assuming you’re heading north from Venice or Verona (where car rental is normally cheaper than in the mountains), you can wind your way up into the Alps. The town of Trento is worth a visit for its historic centre, equipped with cathedral, castle, and piazzas dripping with espressos and Aperol.

Further into the mountains, you’ll reach Bolzano, the provincial capital of South Tyrol. It’s not small, but the winding streets, pastel-painted houses, and looming hills give it a charming, provincial atmosphere. There is plenty to see here: the dramatic Castel Roncolo, Ötzi, the regions oldest resident, preserved in ice for over 5,000 years, or the serene churches and monasteries. Plenty of places to stay too – Hotel Figl and Hotel Greif are particularly comfortable.

After a night or two, drive east, stopping at the stunning Lago di Carezza before reaching the dramatic hairpin bends at Passo Pordoi. You can also take the cable car from here for even more spectacular views of the cliff-faces that hem the Italian peninsula.

Double-back slightly and head north-west. Ortisei is the next charming town and an excellent base for some of the world-class hiking in the area and the via ferratas: exhilarating rock climbs that wind their way up the mountain faces. There is plenty of lovely chalet-style accommodation; Hotel Dolomiti Madonna is an affordable and well-located option.

Continue north and then cut eastward to visit some of the smaller villages and hamlets of the area including Ranui, with the famous church of San Giovanni, set in the rolling meadows. Any of the towns along the SS49 are good options to stay in; drive along until you find one that takes your fancy. San Lorenzo di Sebato is a convenient spot and the Gasthof Traube a pleasant hotel.

Begin to turn south and, on your way, a must-do is the hike around the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, three vast and trunkless legs of stone that have become an enduring image of the Dolomites. A little further and you reach Cortina D’Ampezzo, yet another beautiful town wedged between the folding landscape. As ever, there’s plenty of choice when it comes to accommodation, but Hotel Villa Gaia is particularly nice.

Finally, follow the roads back towards Venice, probably the most well-connected airport in the region, turning your back on some of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe.

The Amalfi Coast Road Trip

By Kasia from amongstromans.com

Considered one of the most spectacular coastlines in the world, the Amalfi Coast is a road tripper’s paradise. This iconic drive takes visitors through a winding, narrow road that snakes between terraced cliffs filled with lemon groves and wedding cake-like towns that seem to be carved out of the hills.

The Amalfi Drive, officially known as SS163, offers 38 km (24 miles) of stunning coastline views. Nestled between the port city of Salerno and the jagged coast of Sorrento, the drive is an experience for the senses. Neither town is officially part of the Amalfi Coast, but both are great starting points for accessing this stunning drive.

There are 13 small villages and towns that make up the Amalfi Coast. They are nestled along the cliffs and a rugged shoreline that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea. While most visitors visit the well-known towns of Amalfi, Positano and Ravello, there is also plenty of charm in the lesser-known towns.

The Amalfi Coast is a culinary, cultural and visual feast for the senses. Lemon groves, vineyards, and fishing are staples here. Visitors can indulge in local specialties ranging from Limoncello, wine, and great pasta and fish dishes. The area is famous for local ceramics and fabrics, which can be bought all over the coast.

The Amalfi Coast is also a great place for hiking. Its famous “Sentiero degli Dei” (The Path of the Gods) offers unapparelled views of the area and the nearby island of Capri. If you need some water therapy, there are many beaches along the way where you can relax under cheerful umbrellas and soak up some sun.

The Amalfi Coast can be done as a continuous drive (one way or return), but you’ll get more out of the experience by stopping along the way. There are occasional viewpoints where you can pull over, but the road is very narrow and can get very busy. There is one lane in each direction and endless steep curves that disappear around every corner. Caution should always be exercised while driving and when pulling over.

Parking is available, but it is also limited. There is a large parking garage in Amalfi, which is a great spot for a break. From Amalfi, you can access ferries to the nearby islands and hop between the other towns. Parking is about €5/hr in the parking garage, less on the streets if available.

Málaga to Lisbon: Exploring the very best of Southern Spain and Portugal

Controbuted by Ryan from asinglestep.co.uk

With a busy international airport that offers consistently reasonable fares from across the UK, Málaga is the perfect gateway to explore Southern Spain and Portugal. A 14-day road trip between Málaga and Lisbon takes in outstanding natural beauty, stunning Moorish architecture, and incredibly historic cities dating back over 3,500 years. 

Your road trip starts in Málaga, where for the first couple of days of your trip you can explore the home of Pablo Picasso and Antonio Banderas. A short stay in the city has everything to offer, from a 1st Century AD Roman theatre, an 11th Century Moorish Alcazaba, and a series of excellent beaches. Before moving on from the city make sure to visit some of the museums, including the dedicated Picasso Museum, as well as some of the impressive architecture and local churches. 

On your way to Ronda, less than 2 hours from Málaga, the more adventurous travellers should stop off at the vertigo-inducing Caminito del Rey. Rising over 300ft above the El Chorro gorge, El Caminito has been dubbed the ‘world’s most dangerous walkway’ but has been reopened to the daring public since 2015. For the ultimate luxury once you arrive in Ronda, stay in the local Parador, located just on the famous Puente Nuevo, a bridge boasting an incredible feat of architecture that spans the 120-metre gorge splitting the city in two. Ronda also offers a range of Moorish architecture, from some of the best-preserved Arab baths to the Mondragón Palace, home of Abbel Mallek, who ruled briefly over what was Moorish Ronda’s golden age.

Your next week is split between the equally dreamy cities of Cádiz and Seville. The drive to and from Ronda is full of plenty of charm, climbing up and down the mountainous region that surrounds the city. Top picks in Cádiz include the hugely dominating and impressive Cathedral, offering panoramic views of the city from the Bell Tower; castles, towers, and theatres; a central market typically thriving with Spanish life; and El Populo, considered the oldest neighbourhood in Europe. 

In the searingly hot Seville (seriously, avoid visiting in August!) you can immerse yourself in the history, heritage, and culture of my favourite Spanish city. Don’t miss the iconic semi-circular Plaza de España, where you could be lucky enough to catch some free, authentic flamenco. Nearby, you also have the neighbouring Alcazar and the Cathedral that houses La Giralda, a 340ft bell tower incorporating the minaret of the original mosque that stood on the site. Food is certainly your friend in Seville, so make sure to wander around the Northern neighbourhoods of La Macarena and Alameda to find great tapas and drinks, before heading to the Metropol Parasol as the sun sets for enviously beautiful golden views across the city

On your way to Lisbon, your final destination, you have a number of choices for your penultimate stay. Plenty of options lie in Portugal’s Algarve, including favourites Faro, Portimão, and Lagos, as well as the sleepy former fishing village of Burgau. As you make the way down the Portuguese coast, make sure to stop off at Benagil Caves, one of the Algarve’s hottest and most spectacular attractions. 

You will finish your road trip in Lisbon, Portugal’s capital. Spend your last few days exploring the famous old neighbourhood of Alfama; photographing the iconic yellow trams; gorging on the amazing food at the TimeOut Market; appreciating the grandeur of the town square; and even climbing up to one of the breathtaking viewpoints high above the city. And be sure to bring your walking shoes for Lisbon, it sure is hilly!

Unlocking the mysteries of Transylvania on a road trip

Contributed by Anda from TravelforaWhile.com

One of the best road trips to take in Eastern Europe is the one through Transylvania in Romania. It has it all, vibrant cities, beautiful nature, citadels, and Medieval towns. The ideal is to spend 5 to 7 days on the road to see as much as possible of this spectacular country.

If you’re flying in, the easiest is to start in Cluj-Napoca. The small airport here has connections to most of Europe and is 3 hours away from London.

Anyway, you can rent a car at the airport, or get a taxi and spend the first night or two in Cluj. This is the unofficial capital of Transylvania province and I’m sure you’ll love it. For such an old city, Cluj-Napoca has a very young and vibrant atmosphere. It hosts many festivals and events throughout the year, and it has a great food scene too.

Make sure to visit at least the beautiful cathedrals in the main piazzas, the Botanic Gardens, Cetatuia Park and to relax with a cocktail in Museum Square.

From Cluj, head south to Sighisoara, with a stop in Turda. Plan about 2,5 hours for the road and reserve a couple more hours to visit the salt mine in Turda. The mine will be a pleasant surprise, just remember to bring something warm even if you visit during the summer.

Sighisoara is a picturesque medieval citadel, still inhabited. Book your accommodation inside the citadel on the hill and explore the towers, the covered staircase, and also the church and the Evangelical Cemetery in the upper citadel. You will need to leave your car in the parking area just below the citadel.

The area around Sighisoara has a few fortified churches worth seeing. On the next day, on your 120 km way to Brasov, you can stray a few kilometers away to Viscri to see one of these fortified churches. This is the traditional Saxon village that the Prince of Wales fell in love with, and where he also bought a house. 

The next stop, Brasov is a medieval city at the gate to Transylvania. Visit the Council Square, the breathtaking Black Church, and the surviving towers here. 

On the next day, head to Sibiu, another Transylvanian jewel less than 150km away from Brasov. The roofs of the Old Town here have “eyes” that make the city quite unique. One other place you should visit in Sibiu is the open-air Astra Museum.

From Sibiu, you can head back to Cluj-Napoca, and visit Alba Iulia Citadel on your way. Alternatively, if you are heading to Bucharest, I suggest taking the highest and most spectacular way available, Transalpina road.

Living a fantasy on the German Fairytale Road

Contributed by Carina of BucketList2Life.com

If you are looking for a less touristy alternative for the German Romantic Road, try the Fairytale Road – especially if you are a lover of Grimms’ Fairy Tales. And who doesn’t love Snow White, Cinderella, and Little Red Riding Hood? The German Fairytale Route leads through central and northern Germany for about 600 kilometres (370 mi). There are more than 60 Brothers Grimm and fairytale-themed stops along the way – you can explore as many of them as you like, but also venture off into your own adventures.

The airport city Frankfurt am Main is the perfect vantage point. Explore its famous skyline before you head off to your first stop, Hanau, the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm. You’ll find a statue of the Grimms on the market square and once a year a Brothers Grimm Festival takes place in this town.

Drive further north to Steinau, where you can find the childhood home of the Brothers Grimm as well as a beautiful castle. Further along the way in Marburg, the student city of the Brothers Grimm, you can walk along the “Grimm-dich-Pfad” a fun trail of fairytale symbols that leads you through the whole city and to the castle, which you can reach by a free elevator.

The student city of Göttingen is the perfect place for a break along the way. Back in the day, the Brothers Grimm were university professors here. There are many hotels, restaurants, and bars. Explore the charming city center with its half-timbered houses and the famous statue of the Gänseliesel (Goose Girl). It’s the perfect vantage point for day trips – check out Sleeping Beauty‘s castle in Sababurg. The charming towns along the Weser river, like Witzenhausen (don’t miss the cherry blossom in spring), Hann. Münden with its over 700 half-timbered houses, and the baroque planned town Bad Karlshafen can be combined in a bike trip if you want to get out of the car for a bit. Additionally, you can retrace the life of another German storyteller, Wilhelm Busch, in this area. Visit the Wilhelm Busch Mill in Ebergötzen also called Max and Moritz Mill after his famous protagonists.

Drive further north through Hameln, the town and the Pied Piper of Hamelin, and Bremen, the town of the Town Musicians of Bremen. The German Fairytale Road ends in the northern German town of Buxtehude – the town of The Hare and the Hedgehog. End your road trip in the nearby airport city Hamburg, where you can enjoy German city life – don’t forget to check out the urban Gängeviertel full of street art.

This is the German road trip for you if you want to see off-the-beaten-path places in Germany, beautiful historic half-timbered old towns, castles, mills, and the countryside with its rivers and rolling hills, but also two of Germany’s most vibrant cities.

European road trip through Spain’s Costa Brava:

Contributed by Ignacio of tangoandrakija.com

Sitges –- Barcelona – Badalona – Blanes – Lloret de Mar – Tossa de Mar – Girona – Cadaques

Total distance 250km

Costa Brava is a beautiful coastal region in Catalonia, Spain characteristic by stunning beaches, crystal clear waters and charming little towns.

If you are around Barcelona any time between spring and autumn there is no excuse to not make this scenic and relaxing road trip.

Assuming you are starting your road trip from Barcelona, you can rent a car there and start your trip going a little bit backwards in order to visit one of the most beautiful coastal towns near Barcelona – Sitges.

Sitges is located some 25 km southwest of Barcelona so, you can reach it in less than half and hour.

Sitges is characteristic by its beautiful sandy beaches but also by its vivid nightlife all year round. It is worldwide known for its Film Festival dedicated to fantasy and horror films that is happening every year in early October. Also, it is known by its Carnival (happening in March) which includes public street parties and costume parades.

If you decide to sleepover in Sitges you can enjoy a night out and continue your road trip the next day.

From Sitges you will drive back towards Barcelona and continue your trip towards north.

Badalona is your next stop and it will take you some 40 minutes to reach it from Sitges.

Badalona is located just outside Barcelona and it has beautiful and not very crowded beach since it is popular mainly among locals. You can have a swim and some delicious tapas at some of the restaurants by the waterfront. Make sure to try some of the local seafood specialties such as fried calamari, marinated seashells or some delicious croquets.

Your next stop is Blanes and it will take you around 50 minutes to get there. Blanes is one of the most popular family summer destinations and it has some incredible beaches.

If you are up for some easy trekking you can walk up the San Juan hill to the castle from where you will have the most amazing panoramic views over Blanes and the coastline.

Blanes is one option for the next sleepover or you can move just around 6 km north to your next stop – Lloret de Mar and make a sleepover there.

Lloret de Mar is one of the most famous summer locations mostly for foreigners even though locals also like to spend their summer vacations there. It’s a typical Spanish coastal town with lots of bars and restaurants, plenty of amazing beaches (both with facilities and wild ones) and a variety of nightlife.

Some 20km further you will reach Tossa de Mar – an ancient fishermen’s village where you can visit the Old Town with ancient houses and medieval alleys and, of course, some of its incredible beaches.

If you had enough of the beaches (if that is even possible) you can visit on of the most beautiful Catalan cities – Girona. If you are a Game of Thrones fan, in Girona you can see some of the filming locations of the popular serial. Stroll down the cobblestone streets of the Old Town, kiss the lioness ass statue for good luck and cross some of the famous Girona bridges.

Sleeping over in Girona is a good idea if you want to get to know the city a little bit better.

Some 75 km from Girona is your next and final destination of this road trip – Cadaques which is said to be “a pearl of Costa Brava”. Here you can visit Salvador Dali’s museum and house where he lived and created his works. Besides that, you have a nice beach and plenty of amazing restaurants to try all the delicious local food.

The Tunnel of Love in Ukraine

Contributed by Francesco from Strayidler.com.

Bonuses are always welcome. Am I wrong? Even if you travel by public transport, you can sometimes find yourself in front of pleasant surprises.

Ever heard of the “Tunnel of Love”, in Klevan, Ukraine? It is an apparent vegetal tunnel, developed on a short railway segment, almost entirely straight. The tunnel was created by the passage of trains and has become a tourist attraction, on which it is possible to walk. But beware: the route is still active, even if few trains pass through it and they travel rather slowly.

Excuse me, Stray: “On a road trip post, you talk about trains!?” Yes. Because, to get there, I took two buses and walked for 20-30 minutes.

But let’s go in order: the first stop was from Kyiv to Rivne, a city of almost two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. 

Crossing the road in front of Rivne station, you can take a minibus (I think they are called marshrutka), to get to Klevan. And from there, as already mentioned, you can walk to the Tunnel of Love.

Which is definitely a remarkable destination, great as an intermediate stop between Kyiv and the city of Lviv. But I’d be lying if I concealed how interesting it was to get there.

For example, trying to communicate, when taking a marshrutka and then sharing the journey with the locals, observing their interaction, obviously without understanding half a word. But you can try to learn reading Cyrillic, if you like.

And then walking through Klevan, a little in the countryside, a little in the city. Children are now used to seeing tourists. But nevertheless remain curious, with their splendid ability to read infinite universes from your clumsy movements.

And then I went back to Rivne to spend the evening. Waiting for the next leg of my itinerary. Boring stop? Far from it. I loved walking the streets of the center, from the square with the theater in Soviet architecture to its churches, to the park decorated with sculptures and people, honoring their well-deserved summer. Lively restaurants, long summer light, minibuses with different numbers overlapping at the main stop. It’s a party, it’s a party on the stage of my memories.

So, I know you expected it! I won’t leave a photo of the Tunnel of Love (they can be found at will); it is of Rivne that I want to leave a fleeting impression.

I miss Ukraine: that is where my last day of summer has remained since 2019.

Exploring Austria – Salzburg to Innsbruck via Hallstatt

Contributed by Elena from the TravelByExample.com

Western regions of Austria are famous for mountainous landscapes, ski resorts and rich historical heritage. Road trip from Salzburg to Innsbruck via Hallstatt is a perfect road trip for those who appreciate a mix of nature and scenery with cities sightseeing.

Start your trip at Salzburg – the city known for its historical heritage and for being the birthplace of Mozart. Spend at least one day exploring Salzburg as there are many sights to see. Read One day in Salzburg for the detailed itinerary and top attractions of the city.

From Salzburg drive to the iconic Austrian village of Hallstatt. It’s an easy 1-hour drive and you can make a stop at either Attersee, Fuschlsee or Wolfgangsee lake along the route. The lakes have clear turquoise water and you can stop for a swim if you’re travelling in summer or for a hike during colder months.

Hallstatt is a picturesque Austrian village located on the shore of a lake and surrounded by mountains. The village is a very popular tourist destination. You will find it less crowded in the evenings and early mornings. So, stay a night there and leave it the following morning before most tourists will arrive.

Short drive from Hallstatt is 5 Fingers Lookout. It has breathtaking views of Hallstatt Lake and the surrounding Alps. Nearby you can also visit the Mammut cave or take a guided tour of Dachstein Giant Ice Cave.

From Hallstatt drive to Innsbruck. It’s about a 3.5 hour drive (if driving within Austria, without going through Germany) and there are few stops you can make on the route. Eisriesenwelt – a natural limestone and ice cave. Krimml Waterfalls – the highest waterfall in Austria. Achen Lake – picturesque alpine lake with turquoise waters. Zillertal – with its beautiful mountain scenery and many hiking trails.

Spend a night in Innsbruck – the capital of Tyrol region – and explore its top attractions the following day. Innsbruck’s old town center – Altstadt – has many historical landmarks and beautiful architecture. Make sure to ride Hungerburgbahn funicular to enjoy the sweeping views of Innsbruck city from the top. Don’t forget to visit the famous Bergisel Ski Jump that is opened for visitors all year round.

Total distance of the road from Salzburg to Innsbruck via Hallstatt (with several stopovers on the way) is 350-400km.

Total duration is 4 days (3 nights at Salzburg, Hallstatt and Innsbruck). Perfect for a long weekend road trip!

From Agrigento to Palermo, Sicily, Italy

Contributed by Lisa from FollowingtheRiviera.com

The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, road trips, and day trips in Sicily are vast and varied. The drive from Agrigento to Palermo can be interesting, or monotonous, depending on the route. According to Google Maps, the quickest time is approximately 2 hours, which will most likely include the highways (autostrada). Choose this route, but don’t be surprised if there’s not much to write home about. However, take a longer, yet more scenic route, and there’ll be memories, and photos, to look back on for years.

Starting at Agrigento, most visitors come here for one thing: to visit the Valley of the Kings (Valle dei Templi). The archaeological site’s fascinating, but gets busy quickly and can be difficult to enjoy beneath the blazing Sicilian sun. Saying that, arrive early to beat the crowds and the heat.

Around 25 minutes from the Valley of the Kings are the striking Scala dei Turchi. Translated as ‘Turkish stairs’, this white sedimentary rocky cliff is popular with locals and visitors. If there’s time to spare, head to the beach and enjoy the views and warm waters.

Another interesting city to pass by is Mazara del Vallo. It’s one of the southernmost cities in Italy, with the tip of Tunisia just across the Mediterranean Sea. Once ruled by Arab, Greeks, Romans and Byzantines, its unique influences are reflected in the architecture and food. While here, book a table at La Bettola and be sure to try the traditional fish couscous.

Torre Bonera Green Resort is a great choice for staying near Mazara del Vallo. It’s around a 20-minute drive, but the boutique-style hotel makes a relaxing getaway in the Sicilian countryside.

To see a surreal site with a tragic backstory on this side of Sicily, consider stopping by Gibellina. A devastating earthquake in 1968 completely destroyed the entire town, and most of its residents. Today, the former town of Gibellina is an open-air museum. Completely covered in concrete, aside from the streets that were once there, it’s a place like no other in Sicily. It goes without saying that being respectful in Gibellina is a given. Don’t follow the lead of some visitors, who climbed on top of the concrete and began taking selfies.  

Two-day road trip from Agrigento to Palermo: Distance in total: 299km / 4hrs 

Chasing the Midnight Sun

Where: Northern Norway, Finland

Start / Finish: Tromsø, Norway

Distance: 2,276km / 1,414 miles

Duration: Between 5 and 8 days

The Norwegian city of Tromsø is the gateway to the Arctic. 350km north of the Arctic Circle, and the departure point for many polar expeditions, it’s a modern city with a vibrant arts and culture scene, and the surrounding mountains and islands draw outdoor lovers.

The drive to Kautokeino weaves past stunning coastal mountains, before turning inland and crossing the border into Finnish Lapland, before crossing back to Norway. Look for reindeer herding structures, including wooden corrals used in the seasonal round-up, and animals grazing by the roadside.

Kautokeino and Karasjok are the cultural centres of northern Sápmi, the region traditionally inhabited by the Sámi, and give an insight into the life of reindeer herders. The route continues northeast, tracing the Finnish border for a while, to Tana Bru, then eastward onto the Varanger peninsula.

Vardø is the easternmost town in Norway, located further east than Istanbul. It’s also notable for street art on many of the old buildings. Varanger is a birdwatcher’s paradise, and there’s a chance of spotting Arctic foxes and hares.

Returning westward, the route winds across the tundra of the Finmarksvidda, before going north to Honningsvåg, the northernmost town in Norway. The ideal base to visit Nordkapp, it can be busy with cruise passengers, but go at midnight, especially in May and August, to be treated to incredible sunset skies, and have the place mostly to yourself.

Next stop is Hammerfest, a historic town with a great museum, with the grand name of The Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society. Join as a member for exclusive stickers and pins only available to the select few that have made the journey north.

From Hammerfest turn south, over the Finmarksvidda to Alta, where more than 6,000 petroglyphs, or rock carvings, dating between 4200BCE and 500 BCE, are protected as a UNESCO world heritage site. The route heads back towards Tromsø along the coast, with sensational views across the fjord to the striking Lyngen Alps.

The route starts in Tromsø, however Alta, Hammerfest, and Vadsø are all served by the Hurtigruten coastal ferry and have airports, so could be alternative departure points.

Midnight sun occurs in Finnmark between the second week of May and the end of September. Around the solstice, the sun will circle high in the sky, but at the beginning and end of the period, you can watch the sun set on the northern horizon, appear to touch the Arctic Ocean, then rise again.

Don’t miss: Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø; Sami Centre for Contemporary Art, Karasjok; Steilneset Memorial, Vardø; views from the Nordkapp plateau, near Honningsvåg; The Royal and Ancient Society of Polar Bears, Hammerfest; Alta petroglyphs.

Photo Journal: Stormbound in Skudeneshavn, Norway

https://thesevagabondshoes.org/2018/10/27/photo-journal-stormbound-in-skudeneshavn-norway/

Europe road trip – Montenegro

Shared by Cassie from cassiethehag.com.

There’s nothing like a road trip through Montenegro to see the best Europe has to offer. Combining charming old towns, excellent cultural attractions, and truly next-level mountain scenery, there is every chance of making unforgettable memories here.

It’s easiest to begin and end your road trip in historical Kotor or capital city Podgorica. Rent a car with a reputable company and drop it off at either city once you’ve finished your trip. There are a few different routes to choose from, whether you want to stick to the coastal roads, trace the footsteps of historical figures through the many Montenegrin old towns, or feel inspired to take on the mountains. The below recommendations combine a mix of all three and will take around seven days to complete. 

Beginning in Podgorica, enjoy nearby Lake Skadar National Park. Don’t miss the famous ‘bend lake’ viewpoint, marked on google maps as the Crnojevic River lookout point. On day two, head to Durmitor National Park. You won’t want to rush your time here – from the 2423m high Bobotuv Kok mountain to the stunning glacier lake Crno Jezero (‘Black Lake’), the scenery is wonderful. Durdevica Tara Bridge and Tara Canyon are definitely worth a stop. There are lots of outdoor activities here, including rafting below or ziplining above the canyon, which is actually the largest canyon in Europe.

Finally, spend more time relaxing and enjoying historical architecture by visiting Kotor, Sveti Stefan, and Budva. These are popular beach destinations in the Summer but are worth visiting for the cultural attractions at any time of year. A side trip from Kotor to Lovcen National Park is also worth it for the fantastic Mausoleum of Petar Njegos, views over Kotor… and the hair-raising cliffside road of 25 hairpin bends. Drive carefully in Montenegro – you’ll be glad you did.

Provence Road Trip

Written by Lannie from Lanniesfoodandtravel.com.

A road trip through Provence in the south of France is a combination of idyllic and surreal.  Of course, there are villages with extensive lavender fields and cypress trees.  But there’s so much more!  Art, Roman history, and unmatched natural beauty. Although it was a little confusing to me at first, Provence is not a specific village and refers to the whole region.

The road trip begins in Avignon, Provence’s main city – a 6.5-hour drive south from Paris or 2.5-hours from Lyon. 5 days would be perfect for this road trip, which can be broken up into different sections. 

• Luberon – less than 1 hour west of Avignon, Luberon is a Natural Regional Park which encompasses forests, scrublands, vineyards, and rocky areas.  The main commune of Gordes, sits atop a giant calcareous rock, reminiscent of Minas Tirith from LOTR!  A hidden gem is Roussillon, tinted orange due to the ochre deposits in the clay.  Talk a walk in the Ochre Path to visit an old ochre quarry.  Don’t miss Sénanque Abbey, a picturesque Cistercian abbey from 1148, known for their lavender fields (blooms in July and August).
• Saint Remy de Provence – located 45 minutes southwest from Luberon.  Mostly known for the Saint-Paul Asylum, where Van Gogh spent one year between 1889 – 1890.  Also, visit the ancient and wealthy Roman city of Glanum, founded in the 6^th century BC but abandoned in 260 AD.  If art is your thing, I’d suggest a trip 15 minutes to south to visit Carrières de Lumières (The Quarries of Light) – a digital art installation nestled inside a giant limestone quarry.
• Continue on your journey to Arles, only 30 minutes away. Van Gogh spent 1888 -1889 in Arles, prolifically painting his most famous works, and (sadly) where he cut off his ear.  The Van Gogh self-guided walking tour is incredible and takes you to the places behind the paintings. Outside of Van Gogh, the Arles Amphitheatre is the main landmark in town – built in 90 AD and previously held up to 20,000 excited, Roman fans of chariot races and bloody gladiator fights.  In its long history, it housed an entire town with over 200 houses inside!  If you’re in Arles on Wednesdays and Saturdays, check out the open-air markets, with fresh produce and spices galore.

If you want to continue south on your Provence road trip, head to the seaside city of Marseilles – famous for the Chateau D’If prison, which housed the fictional Count of Monte Cristo. Or take a boat trip to the Calanques National Park for stunning emerald bays set against towering limestone cliffs.

If you’re heading back up to Avignon, detour to Nimes to the Pont du Gard roman aqueduct – the highest and best preserved Roman aqueduct bridge!  It’s absolutely stunning!

The Best Road Trips In Europe – Tuscany!

Contributed by John from johnrieber.com

Driving through Italy’s famed Tuscany wine region is not only easy but spectacularly beautiful as well. The trip begins when you fly into Florence, either into their smaller airport or a larger one nearby in the city of Pisa – which allows you to get a picture of the leaning tower while there.

Rental cars are easy to secure from either location, and you can use Florence as a home base for your adventures because everything is so close.  

For example, the trip from Florence to the medieval town of Siena is just over a one hour drive of 53 miles, taking the RA3 highway.

Siena is known for its medieval brick buildings. There’s a fan-shaped central square known as the Piazza del Campo, which is the site of the Palazzo Pubblico, their gothic town hall.

There is plentiful parking on the outskirts of the ancient part of town.

One of the joys of driving in Tuscany is that there is so much to see within an hour’s drive of Florence…and by taking smaller roads you will discover more of the region’s medieval villages, such as San Gimignano, which is only 41 miles from Florence.

“San G” is known as the “town of fine towers”, as the walled medieval village is home to a dozen walled towers, which look like a miniature version of Manhattan’s skyline.  These were originally built to provide protection for local families from marauding enemies.

If you want a taste of the town’s past, you can stay in one of the small hotels, which offer up a unique style that celebrates their history.

From there, you can drive to the Castello di Verrazzano in only 45 minutes.  This is a classic Tuscan winery.  In fact, the Verrazzano bridge in New York City, connecting Brooklyn to Staten Island, has a brick that came from this estate. 

The winery offers tastings and tours, and lunches are also served on site.  The ornate estate sits high on a hill and offers up incredible views of the surrounding vineyards as well.

Everything is easy to navigate in this part of the country.  To get from San Gimignano to the winery, you just take the RA3 to the SP94 and then the SP92 and you are there.

Finally, the beautiful town of Cortona is just 61 miles from Florence, easy to get to using the A1 highway until you get to the SR-71 for the remainder of the trip.

Cortona has the Etruscan Academy Museum, which has an Archaeological Park with ancient city fortifications and examples of Roman roads as well.

Driving through this part of Italy will take you back in time for some delicious adventures.

The Best Road Trips In Europe – Serbia by bike

Contributed by Lauren from theplanetedit.com

Serbia is a fantastic place for a road trip, and what better way to hit the road than by bicycle? The world is at its best when there’s nothing between it and you, and this rings particularly true for Serbia. The warm Serbian breeze, the fantastic scenery of the Djerdap National Park and the character of the local towns are best experienced on two wheels.

The EuroVelo 6 bicycle route spans from France to Romania, traversing 10 countries across the European continent. The section that runs through Serbia, though, is one of the best. The Serbian EuroVelo 6 follows the Danube River for over 665km from the Croatian border near Backa Palanka to the Bulgarian border near Negotin, hitting highlights such as Novi Sad, Belgrade, Golubac and the Djerdap National Park on the way.

Between the cities and major towns, the EuroVelo 6 bike path will take you along gorgeous mountain roads, through rolling countryside and along the Danube River, where you might spot wild otters playing along the banks.

The absolute highlight of your Serbian road trip, though, will be when you cycle through the Djerdap National Park. The scenery is astonishing and you’ll be awestruck by the gorges and river.

Another highlight of a road trip through Serbia is the warm hospitality of the local people. After a long day of cycling, a lovely campsite is always much looked forward to. With that being said, the following campsites are excellent for bicycle tourists and can be found along the Serbian EuroVelo 6:

My Memento Rooms and Camping: Situated just 20km east of Novi Sad near a town called Cortanovci, this campground is situated in a lovely garden, with flowers and fruit trees.

Camp & Guesthouse for Cyclists & Adventurers “Urban Guerrilla”: Situated in the lovely town of Negotin, this campground is one of the most talked-about on the cycle trail in Serbia. The host is a lovely man named Bojan who goes above and beyond to make you feel at home, and is a fountain of knowledge on cycling in the area.

Camping Asin: Camping Asin is run by a wonderful lady called Milena. She has an infectious, positive energy and kindly welcomes guests with a cold, homemade juice and fresh watermelon.

The EuroVelo 6 bike path is well sign-posted and easy to follow, so you’ll be able to relax as you cycle. Completing this road trip through Serbia should take about 2 weeks for a competent cyclist.

Will you be adding any of these Epic European Road Trips to your bucket list? Let me know your European road trip favourite in the comments below.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Hungary shares many items from its cuisine with the surrounding countries. Borders have moved and been renegotiated but one thing moves even easier and that’s the people. With them they took their recipes and so if you land in Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, or Germany you are very well likely to find similar items on menus. But there are some dishes that are native Hungarian and I’m going to introduce you to these as well as suggest where to find them in the country’s capital.

Traditional Hungarian food is traditionally heavy on meat, but there are more and more restaurants catering for allergies, vegetarians and vegans. I’m going to focus mostly on the traditional where pork and chicken would be the most common meats served.

What to Eat in Budapest and Hungary

Goulash/ Gulyas

It’s the first dish that everyone thinks of when Hungarian cuisine is mentioned. It is a broad term and can be eaten as a soup like starter or as a stew. When considering what to eat in Budapest, this is the essential dish.

Goulash Soup

Goulash soup is a broth of beef, potato, paprika and tomato. It’s perhaps best suited to the colder winter months, but it is undoubtedly delicious. This staple of traditional Hungarian food is usually served with a side of some bread. The soup has a strong deep red colour. It may also be known as Gulyasleves on menus.

When in Budapest I can strongly recommend Pest-Buda Bistro for Goulash. They serve an awesome soup and by all accounts a great stew as well. The restaurant is located in the castle district of Buda, a few minutes walk from the Fisherman’s Bastion on Fortuna Utca. It is one of Hungary’s oldest restaurants being in continuous operation since around 1800. A Goulash Soup costs 1960 HUF, and bear in mind that €1=320 HUF for the remainder of this blog.

Gulyasporkolt

Goulash is a stew of meat (usually beef) and vegetables served with paprika, tomato, onion and other spices. It found its origin amongst cattle herdsmen in the ninth century, and now is popular worldwide. It also takes its name from this as a Gulyas is a cattle herdsman. I came across some of these on my 2018 trip to the wild west of Hungary, in the Hungarian Puszta.

It’s a dish you are going to have to try on your trip, as not to do so would be like leaving Italy without pasta passing your lips. It’s available in most restaurants serving traditional cuisine, so is widespread throughout Buda and Pest. If beef isn’t your thing try csirkeporkolt, which is commonly known as chicken paprikash. Porkolt is usually cooked in a large pot over an open flame, and if you get out of the city, or to a market, this process is a common sight. The dish usually comes with a side of nokedli which a type of Hungarian noodle. There are many modern restaurants serving variations on the dish, but you can’t go wrong with Pest-Buda Bistro.

If you are feeling super brave scroll down to the end for my suggestions on a porkolt for those who really would like to sample everything Hungary has to offer.

Sour cherry soup

Hideg Meggyleves is perhaps a better option for those sticky summer months in the city. Served cold this soup is a mix of sour cherries, spices, sugar, and a dollop of sour cream on top. I can attest to the quality of this soup, it’s absolutely delicious, and cherries wouldn’t really be my thing. It’s very much a seasonable product so will be found on menus during the summer months. I sampled this one in the town of Hortobagy on the Great Hungarian Plain. However if in Budapest, Kispiac Bisztro on Hold Street comes highly recommended. Cherries mature in June so the subsequent months will bring the best flavours.

Lecso

Lecso is not something I’ve had a the pleasure of eating out when in Hungary, but I have eaten many times in my wife’s home. It’s one of those things I simply have to have when there. Basically it’s a thick vegetable ragout made with yellow pointed peppers, onions, tomatoes, paprika with sautéed bacon. It’s a treat for the taste buds.

Lecso can be found in Budapest at the imaginatively named Lecso restaurant on Szent Istvan Krt near Margarit Bridge. This cafe doubles as a restaurant for the evening and provides great value for money. It is also the perfect place to find stuffed cabbage.

Toltott Kaposzta

Toltott kaposzta (stuffed cabbage leaves) is a dish commonly found in Central Europe, the Middle East and Asia. It is a cabbage roll, where the ingredients of minced pork, rice, onion, paprika, and garlic are wrapped in cabbage. Hungarians generally use sour or sweet cabbage. It is served with sour cream, which plays a starring role in many Hungarian dishes.  It is said that the dish will bring you health and wealth two things I’m sure we are all looking for. Again cabbage wouldn’t be my bag in Ireland, but this is a dish I’ve enjoyed more than I thought I would.

Rantott Hus

This is another dish that is synonymous with the surrounding area and most commonly known as Schnitzel worldwide. Schnitzel is usually pork or veal, which is beaten with a meat tenderising hammer, coated in flour, eggs and breadcrumbs and deep-fried. Rantott hus however is often served using chicken. As I’m sure you all know it’s delicious and one of my faves. There are variations available. Rantott Sajt is with cheese.

I was told I had to try Buja Diszno(k) in the Hold Street Market. For 2300huf you get an enormous Rantott Hus. It was twice the size of my hand and was a real man vs food situation. I’m happy to say I won, just don’t expect to eat dinner if this is your lunch. Perfect for those on a budget. Its served with creamy potato salad which is the ideal light accompaniment. If this is too big they do serve Rantott Ful, which is pig ear.

Many restaurants will serve stuffed Rantott Hus, usually with cheese. This is something worth trying should you find on a menu. I’ve only enjoyed this on my trips in Eastern Hungary but its widespread.

Ciganypecsenye

Gypsy Roast as this dish translates to is another heavy on the meat dish. Finding its origin in Hungary’s gypsy minority, this dish has now found popularity in homes and restaurants.

It is a blend of pork blade steaks and smoked bacon, roasted in a marinade of garlic, mustard, and paprika. The bacon comes out thick with grooves in it, and its very crunchy. Gypsy Roast is another large challenging dish. It is rare in Hungary that thought is given to saving space for dessert. Serving is usually with potatoes or wedges. As you may have guessed by now, I’m a big fan of how pork is served in Hungary, and this isn’t an exception. Delicious.

Paprika Restaurant in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter comes highly regarded for Gypsy Roast. I have had this dish several times across the country and it has always been spot on. Its an essential when considering what to eat in Budapest.

Eat Budapest Street Food

Hungary has a thriving street food scene that is well frequented by locals. Always a good sign. The offerings at these stalls varies and ranges from good gyros, to local sausages, to more indigenous fare. Naturally i will recommend the more local. Some of the aforementioned things are available also such as Rantott Hus.

Langos – The best Traditional Hungarian Food

Langos is one of my absolute favourites. It’s as street food as it gets, so don’t expect to find it in restaurants. Trust me I’ve tried. Langos is a deep fried dough which is then served with a choice of toppings. I find it best with sour cream (which you will find in many Hungarian recipes) and cheese. To help you out at the stall, it’s called Langos Saitos Tejfolos. Langos is a perfect blend of dough and crunch. It’s a little hard to even describe so it’s best tried. It certainly won’t break the bank and it’s more than enough to cover one of your daily meals. The only challenge is eating it, you can expect some loss of toppings. But that’s all part of the experience.

Being street food you could walk the streets looking for a market serving langos, or you could just take my advice. If you are in the region of St Stephens Basilica or the Parliament building in Pest, Arany Janos Ut is nearby. The metro station here (metro stations are always a good place to find street food in Budapest) houses Retro Langos Büfe. It may not look a million dollars from the outside, but they serve a mean langos, and you will feel it on the inside. Build up a good appetite with some local culture, and come here to make it history.

Hungarian desserts and where to find them

Chimney Cake

Chimney Cake is a sweet yeast dough that are baked and covered in cinammon sugar. The dough is hand rolled and then the cones are available with a variety of toppings. This one is traditional Hungarian. I have only tried it in the east again but it is available in a number of places throughout Budapest, notably Chimney Cone on Vigado Ut (see photo below) and Street Cakes on Andrassy Ut. The latter looks the better option with real variety in their offerings. I found them to be quite expensive costing around 2000huf in the city, but they are a cake worth trying.

Dobos Torta

Dobos Torte is a Hungarian layered sponge cake consisting of seven layers (yes seven), filled with chocolate buttercream and topped with caramel. Sometimes it comes coated with nuts if that isn’t enough. Dobos torte is available around the city, but it can be enjoyed at the very opulent New York Palace Cafe. The perfect surroundings for a luxury cake.

Budapest’s finest cafe is also billed as the most beautiful in the world. Built for the upper classes by the New York Life Insurance Company in 1884, the New York Palace cafe’s interior by Koraly Senyei, Gusztav Mannheimer, and Ferenc Eisenhut features stuccoes, frescoed ceilings, chandeliers, sweeping balconies, marble columns and Venetian lamps. The decor wouldn’t look lost in the halls of Versailles. But this is no museum, its a cafe, and an experience that shouldn’t be missed when in Budapest. That’s not to say they don’t charge for the privilege (they really do), and its popularity means that there can be significant queues to get a table.

The New York Cafe menu (when you get to see one) is what one expects from a cafe. Brunch items feature extensively such as French Toast, pancakes, sausage or foie gras, and some Hungarian staples as goulash. However most come for a coffee and cake (including your writer). If you want to be really indulgent there’s the 24 kt gold cappuccino. We left €56 behind for two coffees, two cakes, a milkshake and a water, but there was no questions on the taste front. This huge chocolate cake fan left more than impressed. Look at that art!

Gelato

Ok so Hungary didn’t invent gelato. Not am I even claiming they did. They are however doing their best to reinvent it. If you’ve been to Budapest in summer, you’ll know the Hungarian capital is sticky hot, and without a sea or ocean for parsecs, that ice cream is essential. There are some big players looking to bring a different slant to ice cream in Budapest. First there’s Levendula on Rakoczi ut, which, translating as lavender leaves you with no surprise as to what they do. Floral flavours are their speciality. Then there’s Gelarto Rosa, on Szent Istvan ter, who go one further and offer floral presentation. True to their name also, their artful gelato is served in the shape of a rose. The long lines attest to its popularity. Gelato reinvented for sure.

Authentic Budapest Dining Experiences

Ruin Bars

Ruin bars are a unique Budapest phenomenon. They are exactly as advertised, bars opened inside the ruins of old buildings. Most of these are found in the Jewish Quarter on the city, and while they are better known for their late night partying, they do serve traditional food during the day. You can’t go to Budapest without experiencing ruin bars, and the original (and best) is Szimpla Kert. Do not expect fine dining though, these places are rough and ready, yet trendy.

Markets

Budapest isn’t big on breakfast, but if your accommodation doesn’t serve it, then there’s no better place to go than the Central Market Hall on Vamhaz krt. It’s the oldest, largest, and prettiest market in the city, though it’s worth noting the market is at its busiest with locals before 0 am. Hungarian breakfast usually consists of a sandwich with cold cuts and cheese, and you find all this on the lower floors where all the fresh produce is sold. You might think about picking up some retes, a version of strudel usually stuffed with jam or cottage cheese. Delicious. On the upper floors, there are eateries with more of the street food mentioned above, so the market is an option come lunchtime too.

Now that we’ve dabbled in some of the aesthetic side of Budapest, it’s inevitable that’s where we must keep going. There’s nowhere more beautiful to sit and eat, or drink a cocktail, than Budapest’s rooftop bars. See my recommendations in the Best Views in Budapest.

Budapest Food Tours

There are a range of Budapest food tours run locally, that specalise in giving you a taste of the city. Get Your Guide provides a secure and reliable site to book these in advance.

What not to eat in Budapest

There are some unusual dishes in Hungary too, with pigs ear, tripe, gizzard stew and trotter stew being quite popular, but then there is those to really give a wide berth to.

Kakashere Pörkölt

I can’t vouch for this dish as I haven’t tried it but I have heard it’s good from the few people I know to have eaten it. I did order it once in Tokaj but the restaurant was out. Secretly I was quite relieved. This translates as rooster testicle stew. No that wasn’t a typo. Yes it doesn’t sound pretty grotesque. But I was willing to give it a go. If you are, Getto Gulyas in the Jewish quarter of Pest is known for not making a balls of the dish.

I’m a regular traveler to Hungary when we can travel, and I’ll keep sampling its cuisine. Maybe one of these days I’ll try Kakashere Porkolt, and I’ll add my opinion to this blog.

Agyvelo

For non-Hungarian speakers this word means little. For those who do, it prompts a certain level of disgust. And with good reason. Agyvelo is pig brain. Traditionally spread on bread. Never mind how it looks, it in fact smells worse. But I’m of the opinion you don’t know till you have tried it. And now I have I can assure you it’s awful.

I hope this blog will help you on what to eat in Hungary, to enjoy the culinary as well as the architectural delights. If you need help with what to do in Budapest then look no further than my Ultimate Guide to Budapest.

Staying in Budapest

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Thank you for reading and hope you’ll enjoy the cuisine as much as I did.

The Origin of The Netherlands Tulip Fields

Tulips will always be associated with Holland but they were only introduced to the country in the 15th century. They find their origin in the mountains of central Asia, with the lowlands of the Karatau Mountains of Kazakhstan blanketed in their colours. Growing wild here, the flowers are a national symbol for the Kazakhs. Kazakhstan’s position on the spice route between East and West, saw tulips been taken to Europe as a result.

Tulips grew in popularity in the Netherlands aided by their appearance in famous paintings. This peaked in the mid seventeenth century with Tulipmania, as tulips value rose so high they became used as a substitute for currency. Inevitably the market crashed, and people realised that perhaps flowers, a perishable item, weren’t the greatest currency. As modern times were reached, Holland became the world market leader in the growing of tulips as well as other flowers. Tulips are a passionate subject with the Dutch, with flower festivals being held throughout the year.

When to visit The Netherlands to see the tulips

From spring on the Dutch landscape changes as different flowers bloom. With flowers being such big business, the season spans from the daffodils of February through with purple hyacinths, pink crocuses, and of course tulips being prominent in different months. Tulip season runs from late March, through to mid-May. Mid-to-late April is considered the perfect time to see tulips in full bloom, and this is when I visited. The annual flower forecast will give a good indicator when is the peak time for Dutch tulip season.

Where to Stay to see the Tulips

The Netherlands is a small country and easily travelled by car or using its public transport links. Using Amsterdam as a base gives the best access to these, and presents so many options in terms of restaurants, bars, and of course hotels.

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Tulips in Amsterdam

Many coming to the Netherlands to search for tulips, base themselves in Amsterdam. While it doesn’t quite provide the same experience as visiting those vast colourful fields, Amsterdam nonetheless satisfies some visitors whims with several tulip based attractions. The Amsterdam tulip festival celebrates the tulip season in Amsterdam and the whole country. It varies from year to year depending early spring arrives, which gives a flower forecast. This year the festival runs from 20th March to the 9th May. The festival is more a guide to all things tulip happening in The Netherlands, rather than a specific festival on a set day. It’s website, Tulip Festival Amsterdam, is a great resource for all that’s happening in the country, and the place to book tickets for the Flower Parade.

The Bloemenmarkt

Amsterdam’s floating flower market is found on a series of barges strung along the canal Singel canal. You are as likely to see locals as tourists here, looking for whatever flowers might be in season, including tulips in springtime. What you’ll mostly find here is a huge collection of seeds, which will allow you to create your own little version of a tulip field in your garden when the following year rolls around. Most of the barges currently are gift shops rather than florists, but that doesn’t detract from the visitor experience. The market has been here since 1862.

Amsterdam tulip museum

The Amsterdam Tulip Museum is found on Prinsengracht 116, quite close to the Anne Frank House, so its easily paired for visiting, The museum charts the history of the tulip, from its origins in the Himalayas, through Istanbul and then to The Netherlands. The museum is modern and large, and gives an opportunity at the end to pick up some tulip related memorabilia in its gift shop. If you missed the Bloemenmarkt, there is a huge amount of tulip varieties on sale here. Entry to the museum is €5 and its is open daily from 10-6, except on big national holidays.

Keukenhof Flower Parade

Though the flower parade is commonly called the Keukenhof Flower Parade, it can be seen in several towns and cities in the Netherlands. It’s an annual event which has been running since 1947, and growing bigger annually. The 2021 flower parade was due to have taken place on April 17th, but now cancelled due to ongoing restrictions. Each year, hundreds of flower covered floats travel the full route. The route spans a distance of around 40 km, and as well as the Keukenhof gardens, passes through Lisse, Sassenheim, Hillegom, Heemstede and Haarlem, on its route from the coastal town of Noordwijk. Over one million people annually watch the parade, which can be viewed for free, unless you purchase a seated ticket at one of the above towns or Keukenhof. Keukenhof’s Flower Parade is unique in that its floats are made solely from tulips and hyacinths.

Where to see the Dutch tulip fields?

There are three distinct areas of tulip farming in the Netherlands. The Noordoostpolder, the Noordwijkerhout, and Lisse are where your energies are best focused. Bear in mind that with each year, farmers rotate the fields where the flowers are grown, so its difficult to pinpoint the exact location of the fields. I guess for something so beautiful to grow, it takes a lot out of the soil.

Noordoostpolder

Noordoostpolder is an area located in the province of Flevoland. This is the main area for tulip growing in Holland, with many farms located here. Tours are often offered in this area by farmers, to see the fields. The world’s largest flower auction takes place at Aalsmeer in this region. This region is accessed in just under an hour by car from Amsterdam, but is the most difficult place to access by public transport, with a combined bus and train journey being two hours.

Noordwijkerhout

Noordwijkerhout is to the southwest of Amsterdam along with Lisse, and is far more accessible for those coming from Amsterdam on a day trip. The stretch of reclaimed land between The Hague to the south, and Alkmaar to the north is punctuated by the wonderful sight of tulip fields. Noordwijkerhout is an area of dunes and flowers, close to the city of Leiden.  Lisse produces many bulbs for the international market, and is the ideal place to find those long multi-coloured strips of land. Lisse is also the location of Keukenhof, the largest flower garden in the world.

Leiden, Lisse and Haarlem

With strong rail links the towns of the area such as Leiden, Lisse and Haarlem can be reached within 45 minutes or less. With Holland being such a bike friendly country, many bike trails lead through the countryside and this is an excellent way to see the tulip farms.

Take a private tour

Of course if that sounds a little too much like exercise, there is a wide selection of guided sightseeing tours available to see the tulip fields. It is recommend to book these in advance through Get Your Guide to avoid disappointment.

Our Dutch Tulip Field experiences

Ever the road tripper, I choose to travel by car and enjoyed as ever the liberties it gave me. We hired a car for two days while staying in Amsterdam, and combined a trip to prominent Dutch towns and sights with my desire to see those Netherlands tulip fields. It was my main motivation for those four days we spent there.

We rented a car from Schipol Airport, purely based on the convenience of returning to the airport, and because cars are generally much cheaper to hire from airports. We took the metro to Centraal station in Amsterdam, and the train from then on. Arriving in Schipol we followed the instructions calling for a pick up. After 15 minutes of waiting I realised I suffered a blonde moment, I wasn’t looking for a gold car, but a Goldcar Van. Which was white. With an unimpressed driver.

The car, as anyone who read my Adventures of Driving in Europe blog will know, was far from being the best, but she (a Ford Focus) got us where we needed. We began our day with a short drive to Leiden, an attractive and peaceful canalside town. It proved a little too peaceful as we found it difficult to find a badly needed cup of coffee, so we left the surroundings as quick as we had gotten there.

Keukenhof Gardens

Our first planned stop of the day was to the Keukenhof Gardens. Keukenhof is only fifteen minutes from Leiden and thirty from Amsterdam. These tulip gardens are one of the world’s largest flower gardens, with over 7 million flowers on show. Not sure who does the count, but an unenviable job. It only opens in spring for 8 weeks of each year.

We had bought the tickets online the day before for €16 each (entry is now €19) and €6 for parking. Not cheap but there is an amazing amount of work put into the maintenance here, and visiting Keukenhof is a must. The gardens are divided with structures in each corner each dedicated to different exhibits.

Our pre-purchased tickets allowed us to skip the queue and we made a beeline to the restaurant located in the Beatrix area. Those cappuccinos tasted so good after a long wait and they helped wash down the unplanned pepperoni pizza slices.

The park is best strolled at a slow pace, admiring the varieties of flowers on show and the complex arrangements. There are so many amazing displays, its astounding at times. However we found the indoor sections not to our liking, it wasn’t what we came for. So we only visited the Willem-Alexander and Oranje Nassau ones. Peaceful small canals dissect the park, and are crisscrossed by quaint bridges.

Highlights of Keukenhof

-The romance gardens and delft blue garden.

-The beautiful mill which can be entered and gives good views over the tulip fields beyond from its balcony.

-Navigating the maze to climb the watch tower for more views. Sometimes we must get lost to find what we are looking for.

-There is an optional boat ride out into the tulip fields but the waiting time was over 2 hours. If you plan to take this (and I’m sure it’s worth it) head here early and book your place, with a view to returning later.

-The formal gardens surrounding Oranje Nassau, with fountains and beautifully tended shrubs.

-Water features from the above fountains, to small canals, bring so much peace among the crowds. Quaint little bridges criss-cross them.                                                   

-Being spring, it’s not just the flowers that are an attraction. Blossoms are all over the park and add an extra dimension.                                                                               

-Strolling and getting slightly lost among a cacophony of colour. The tulips inevitably are the star attraction and they don’t disappoint.                                              

Keukenhof Gallery

In search of the Dutch tulip fields

While Keukenhof was undoubtedly stunning, the fields to its borders lacked colours. Leaving Keukenhof behind, now was finally the time to go in search of those Dutch bulb fields. I had used a rough non-scale map in an Eyewitness travel guide to pinpoint where they were on my google maps. The roads N206 and N444 were earmarked as good viewpoints so off we headed in that direction. They aren’t far from Keukenhof and we were glad of the freedom of the car.

Dutch Flower Fields Found

It didn’t take us long to find our goal on the N206. A large multi-coloured field loomed on our right and after a quick switch back over a canal on to a minor road we were there. The colours challenged those of a rainbow, with purple, yellow, pink, red, and white shades. We spent some time getting shots here and walking simply admiring the beauty. I tried to capture my idyllic photo but it wasn’t to be found here. Some of the tulips were still a little young, surprising for this late in April.

We pushed on further and another large field presented itself on the left. This time the tulips were fuller, but the field was not as iridescent as before. Red was most certainly the farmers preferred choice of colour, surely a romantic at heart.

We kept driving and admiring the fields and our route took us up the N444. This is all an idyllic part of the country, the canals clear and the houses well-tended. We stumbled upon the village of Voorhout, a town of perfect country houses whose back gardens opened to a canal and moored boats. The whole area was a joy to drive through from the continuing shifts of colour to the laid back way we of life we imagined. And yet despite covering much ground that field from my imagination was eluding me.

One Last Dutch Tulip Field

The following day we road-tripped north, to Alkmaar and its zany cheese market, Zaanse Schans and its wonderful windmills, and Haarlem with its amazing architecture. But that lingering thought of “that field”, the field from my mind, persisted. I couldn’t leave the country without finding it. As we left Haarlem we had time to burn before we were due to drop back the rental. I turned again to the main objective of our Dutch trip. To find the perfect tulip field.

Nature’s Perfection

So I following my gut and throwing my map and GPS aside, I went old school and simply drove. Well I drove south towards the region of Lisse at least. It took about 15 km and 3 times as many turns, but finally with little time left to return the car, I found the field that matched that in my mind’s eye. I was seemingly guided by the heavens, the suns rays filtered through the clouds, and I had one eye on it all the time while driving. Finally they settled above “that field”. Off to one side a row of trees sheltered the innumerable coloured flowers. I was elated. Mission complete. One less bucket list item to conquer.

It was to be the final act of our Dutch trip, but the curtains really came down on something memorable. Remember these are farms and the Dutch tulip fields locations will change with the years. Crop rotation is very much in effect. So explore the areas I’ve suggested and inevitably you will get your reward and leave the country as happy as I did.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too across Europe and North America.

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Why spend Easter in Hungary in Holloko?

So what makes Holloko Hungary so special? It boils down to the place, its culture, and people, and in particular the efforts they make to keep their traditions alive in the old village. Is it possible they do only to keep the stream of tourists coming and the local economy booming? Very much so. If so is it even relevant? Not at all. It’s great to see a town seemingly untouched by time. And no better time than at Easter, when timeless Easter practices are observed.

Everyone flocks here to see the “sprinkling”, more on which I will divulge later. But it’s not just this Easter tradition that is kept. The town and it’s houses are maintained in an old fashion, all white washed with either flowers or ornaments hanging from the roofs. The streets are all pedestrianized adding to that pleasant feel. Each street is a pleasure to walk around and explore.

Easter in Hungary is Holloko.

Easter and me

I’ve never really gotten Easter. Perhaps that sounds a little unusual but I don’t think we in Ireland as I grew up ever did. I mean we understood the religious significance of it. We abstained from meat on Good Friday, and were subsequently rewarded with Spring Lamb for Sunday lunch on Easter Sunday. We swapped Easter eggs, which was always wonderful if chocolate was given up for lent.

But even then we were allowed a day off on St Patrick’s Day to indulge our vices. Don’t remember a day when a carnival rolled through the desert during those 40 days of abstinence from the bible. But growing up I always wondered what the bunnies and eggs was all about. No mention of that either in the bible. To me the Easter Bunny was always ridiculous, even as a young child.

As I grew older, I discovered the links to Eostre, the pagan goddess of fertility who originally was celebrated on these days. Rabbits and eggs are linked to her also. So with time I grew more disenchanted with the notions of Easter, especially as religion faded from my life. What was Easter really all about?

Then travelling introduced me to other traditions of Easter. Suddenly I saw how Easter could and probably should be observed. The quest to discover such traditions was in fact one of my motivations on this trip to Hungary. That quest now took me to Holloko, the best place to observe Easter in Hungary.

Our Easter in Holloko Hungary

We had stayed the night before in Hatvan, a pleasing town, even if it took me by surprise to realise that. More on that and one of my Hungarian road trips in my Hatvan blog. We rose early to breakfast in the SOS Motel where we had stayed, and then made the thirty minute drive to the town of Holloko in Nógrád County of North Hungary. If looking to book to stay in Holloko at Easter, you would need to book extremely early, and furthermore options are quite limited. The Castellum Hotel is rated as best in town. Holloko is certainly more of a day trip destination.

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Budapest to Holloko Hungary

Holloko is not the easiest place to reach, and it is in fact best to travel here by car. It’s around an hour twenty minutes driving from the city of Budapest, but if buses are your thing, then it can take well over two hours and some bus changes. Not ideal. Check the bus service times here.

However if you do have your own wheels it’s a pleasant drive, rapeseed fields are quite common in the lower lands, and brilliantly illuminate the landscape of the during the springtime. Holloko is located deep in the natural environment of the Cserhat Mountains and soon the landscape turned rolling, and vistas looked across wooded lands. Holloko translates to raven stone, and when you finally see the carved wooden raven that lies on the towns edge, you know that it’s close.

Now comes the warning. As Holloko is the best place to celebrate and spend Easter in the country, then you can rest assured you aren’t the only one going there. On any given day over the holiday thousands of people descend on the destination. We were directed from here to one of many fields surrounding the town, that today would serve as car parks, and would approach on foot. Being Easter the celebrations also don’t come for free and entry costs 4000 HUF per person, which is around €11 or $12. Check ahead at the Holloko village website for the program.

History of Holloko

Holloko village dates back to the 13th century, and it’s at this time first mention was made of its castle. The castle was built in response to the Mongol invasion. The village was captured by the Ottomans in the 16th century, and it was only at the end of the Ottoman era in 1683, did the present village spring up. The houses we see today were first built then, but their wooden nature meant that many had to rebuilt due to fires. The last major fires took place in the 20th century. The current population of the village is 387 people.

Holloko finds its way onto the heritage list as a living example of a rural village before the 20th century. It now contains 55 buildings which are all maintained as they were prior to the industrial revolution.

Traditional Dress of Hungary

But those streets and that history aren’t what brings Holloko to life. That accolade belongs to the townsfolk. What a glittering bunch they are. All play their part dressing up, from the animal-coat cloak-draped Gulyas (the cow herdsmen from which the popular dish goulash gets its name), to the regular folk of the town. The gents look great, waist coated and booted, but it’s very much the ladies that steal the thunder.

Their colourful and exuberant layered dresses contrast vividly against the black and white of the towns houses. These beautiful dresses actually consist of about seven layers to give them their lifted effect, and are said to cost in the region of around €1000. Suddenly you can see where your admission fee goes. Everyone throughout the whole village dresses up and takes part, making it just that little more special.

Easter Festival at Holloko Hungary

The entry allows you access to all the activities and a full-time table of events spans the day. When we arrived mass was already underway at the St Michael’s Church in the towns heart. The church is tiny so the mass takes place outside. The mass is followed by a procession through the town, which was our first interaction with many of the colorfully clad country folk.

Following the mass at 1130, the crowds descend from all angles of the town and converge outside the church for what most have come to see, the tradition of sprinkling. See my section on that below.

Throughout the day there is much more entertainment, much of which takes place at the bandstand near the entrance to the town. Here dance and singing troupes will introduce the traditional dances such as czardas, as well as songs local to the area.

To experience this in a more personal setting the well near the end of the town is throughout the day the location of more song and dance. It’s also a good place to see the sprinkling in action.

The Sprinkling at Holloko

Besides sounding like a horror movie title and looking not unlike a sadistic ritual, the sprinkling is anything but. It’s a time-honoured Hungarian Easter tradition. Finding its root in pagan times, the process of throwing a bucket of water over a young maiden was to ensure her fertility, the water ensuring she won’t wilt. With time the tradition has changed and cheap perfume is now sprinkled on the heads of maidens of all ages come Easter in Hungary. This is observed throughout every village in the country.

It is expected that the man in return will receive painted eggs, a cake, or a shot of palinka (a local fruit brandy, and strong stuff). Looks like the ladies come out worse come Easter Sunday and Easter Monday. However some still prefer the ancient ways, and it can be taken a little further by hiring the local fire service to show a man’s affections for a certain lady. Not a good time for a cat to get stuck up a tree.

But back to Holloko. Sprinkling is done with buckets and no one is too safe. It’s the highlight of the day and everyone descends on the church and well at the allotted time to see the action. It is important to be at the symbol below to get the best view. There are two of these in the village (at the church and the well), so scope them out when you arrive.

Top Tip- Go to the Well

It’s somewhat quieter at the well side, and we personally got lost in the crowd at the church and didn’t see much. We then moved ahead of the crowd to the well and here we got a perfect front row viewpoint. Personally I didn’t understand much, the guys chanted an Easter poem, the girls screamed and ran, and one unlucky one was caught. She was then held by each arm, by a guy on either side. This was the bit that was semi ritual and I felt I was in the world of the Wicker Man. She was then drenched by a few buckets of water. It’s all done in good spirits though, but beware, as once this is done, any girls around the village are fair game to get sprinkled and the same guys walk the streets looking for maidens.

Easter Entertainment at Holloko

Besides the sprinkling there is plenty of other entertainment around. The bandstand right at the entrance to the town is the spot to see those traditional Hungarian dances and song. The traditional dance is very unique, my favourite certainly being the tap dance performed by the men where not only the feet tap, but the hands are used to tap feet and knees, in a show of skill. We were even treated to a dance off.

The ladies have their own routines and one song was particularly entrancing. Performed at the well area it was one of the highlights of my visit.

There are innumerable activities going on through the day such as egg painting, pottery, learning whip skills with the gulyas, and many others. Egg painting has major significance in Hungary, the eggs being a symbol of eternal life and the red colours the boiled eggs are painted in are symbolic of the blood of Christ. Alas the number of children in the queues forced me to restrain myself from trying it.

Things to do in Holloko

Easter somewhat curtails the ability to take part in the regular activities of the village, owing to the sheer crowds. But that is of course counteracted by all the extra seasonal fare.

Of course walking the village streets itself is a worthwhile sight. The queues to the heritage sites such as the village museum, doll museum, and the post museums were daunting all day, so we missed out. The old schoolhouse was only large enough to hold about eight students, and the classroom recreates one of the 19th century.

Nina, my daughters favourite place in Holloko was the playground attached to the toy store, Paloc Jatszahaz. All the toys were wooden including the hand wound carousel, and the games included ring toss, horseshoe toss, and a whole host of other non mechanical things. It was quite enchanting to see how kids played in bygone times, before multiplayer was invented.

For a more adult form of playing, check out the wine cellar, showcasing local products from the region.

St Martin Catholic Church

St Martin’s Church is the lower towns biggest landmark. And yet it’s tiny. It’s black steeple and roof set well against the white stone walls, but stepping inside makes you realise that there is hardly space for twenty people. I guess this is why they hold the mass outside. There is a rather intriguing crucifix at the churches entrance though. The church was built in 1889.

Holloko Castle

In the hills above Holloko the castle ruins are the perfect excursion from the village. It’s a steep hike up if not a long one, with the steps near the town well taking you up in fifteen minutes. The castle again was the centre of much spectacle, this time more medieval in tone. The archery and the sword fighting was to be expected, but the huge guy making arrowheads the traditional way with fire, thongs, and a big hammer was fascinating. The guy as well wouldn’t have looked out-of-place in a blacksmiths around 500 years ago, or a Game of Thrones set.

The castle itself is semi-intact, and is accessed by stairs to get past the outer walls. The good thing about this is of course the views of the surrounding countryside which get ever better as you climb higher into the castle. The castle can be visited without seeing the village for 900 HUF, but why would you want to do that. If you do visit during Easter expect huge crowds again at the castle, where the stairs have constant queues up and down, and the central tower took twenty minutes to access. The best thing throughout is the views of the wooded countryside and the village below.

Holloko Castle Exhibits

The castle interior does have some worthwhile exhibits such as the weapon room, the chapel and displays on old furniture. One of the biggest queues I found (and joined out of curiosity) turned out to be to one to look down the garderobe. Look out down below! The best room in the castle featured waxwork figures of 13th century inhabitants of the castle, all dressed in attire from the period.

Dining in Holloko

With all that exertion up and down hills and through the village, you are bound to build up a hunger.

Holloko doesn’t have too many restaurants but Miksrath and Muskati Vendeglo are very highly rated. However with thousands of other hungry people storming about the place, you will be doing well to get a seat. But fear not as other options galore come with the Easter festival. Stalls are open throughout selling much fare and especially baked goods. Street food is often my favourite anyway, so I was probably happier. Hot dogs (not too local I know) were great alongside the local flat bread called Langallo, served fresh from a clay oven.

Those with a sweet tooth (yes me) are well served too by the bakery, with Retes, a Hungarian variant on strudel, stuffed with jam or cottage cheese and Csoroge, long deep-fried parcels of dough, guaranteeing you will give up on that diet for the day. Not that I would ever diet on holidays though.

Conclusion on Holloko Hungary for Easter

Holloko is the ideal place to spend Easter in Hungary, with local traditions and food being a big draw. It’s a beautiful village set high in the Hungarian mountains, and an ideal day trip from Budapest.

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Where Else to Visit in Hungary

I already wrote about Sintra, and the three year anniversary of that blog is now approaching. It was an earnest early day effort but the years have allowed for some introspection. So much of what I did that day in April in Portugal were downright wrong. Maybe going to western Portugal in April in the first place was a wrong move. But we are not here to discuss the weather. Let’s discuss what you can do right on your Sintra day trip.

This rehashed blog has been inspired by Linda over at Meandering My Way who had a similar less than satisfying day visiting Sintra. Interestingly we didn’t even make the same mistakes. Linda’s take on visiting Sintra is certainly worth a read.

My Introduction to Sintra

Our final day in Lisbon, we endeavored to leave the city behind, and visit the Sintra Hills. It was the summer retreat for the kings of Lisbon for many centuries and the many palaces and mansions attest to that. This was one of those road trips that show how organic travelling can be. We had intended to visit the palaces of Pena and Sintra, along with Praia de Adraga beach but the day took a turn for the unexpected.

Ah even in the introduction to my Sintra Itinerary the problems began to surface.

How to get from Lisbon to Sintra

We rented a car for the day booking on rentalcars.com my favoured site. The pick up location was near Parque Eduardo VII in Lisbon, about 10 minutes walk from our hotel. I always book everything in advance; full insurance, car seats, so when I get to the counter all that remains is to sign it over and check the car. I had pre-booked a Volkswagen Polo, for which the insurance cost more than the car, so we were pleasantly surprised to get a Fiat 500 convertible. Using my iPhones google maps off we set to Sintra, which is about 25km northwest of Lisbon.

Take the Train

Right, so from the off I even got this wrong. I’m always an advocate of road trips. Always believe its the best way to see a place. Except in the case of Sintra. A car is not the best way to see Sintra. Just off Lisbon’s Rossio Square is Rossio Station that services Sintra. The station itself is an architectural marvel built in 1887 in the neo-Manueline style popularised in 16th century Portugal. The look of the station alone is enough to tell you that are on the right track. The Lisbon Rossio-Sintra train route takes 40 minutes to reach its destination.

While we are on the subject of getting there it must be noted that we probably took our time over breakfast before ambling over to the car rental agency. Then all the paperwork had to be signed etc etc etc. Big mistake. Sintra isn’t a get on the road at 10 am destination. It’s a get there as early as you can one, and make your full day count. Trains start running at 5:41 from Lisbon and go every 30 minutes from then on (though I’m not saying to catch that early one though unless you plan on being there for sunrise). Incidentally a ticket costs €4.50 return to Sintra, significantly less than renting a car.

The Best Of Sintra in One Day

Sintra National Palace

We arrived in Sintra around midday and first impressions were it certainly lived up to expectations. Second impression was that it is difficult to find a parking space. We did eventually after doubling back on Volta Duche. From here we had caught our first glances of the handsome town of Sintra, dominated by the unusual Sintra National Palace with its iconic conical chimneys. The palace and the whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Palace was mostly constructed in the 15th century by King John 1 and added to in the preceding centuries. It served as a country escape for the royals from Lisbon. It now functions as a museum.

Immediately the biggest issue with driving surfaces. There is a severe lack of parking within Sintra. Bear in mind that this was only April. The problem is further exacerbated in summer as the number of tourists increases. Traffic jams are a frequent problem in the town. As it were this was as close as we would get to the town. There is a good argument to skip the Sintra National Palace, so you don’t suffer palace fatigue by the end of the day. If you do wish to tick them all off it opens at 9:30 am and entry is €10. Visits on average should take around 45 minutes.

Sintra National Palace from a distance

Sintra Train Station and Town hall

We walked back to the gothic and gorgeous Camara Municipal. It’s the town hall of Sintra, constructed in the early 20th century, and Neo-Manueline in style. The town hall has a wonderful clock tower flanked by smaller spires. Decorated with false battlements and bright colours it is beautiful to behold. This was as close as we got to exploring the town as it turned out.

One could argue that I got this right. But if you take the train the route to the town passes right by it. I also neglected to go as far as Sintra train station, an attraction in its own right, with a colour scheme akin to the Mezquita in Cordoba. From the station its only 600 metres into the town. By all good accounts stopping at Queijadas da Sapa for their cheese cakes will perk you up. I didn’t. Pick up some bonus sightseeing points at the 12th century Igreja de São Martinho, before making your way to one of the palaces.

Venturing out into the Sintra Hills

We next drove up to the Palace of Pena, where the car that took us to Sintra proved to be a liability. Try as we might, we could not find parking. We eventually abandoned the plan and backtracked. We had intended to visit Praia de Adraga and return to the Palace of Pena after but while passing Quinta de Regaleira we were enticed inside.

Sintra’s countryside surroundings are a vast area of hills networked by hiking trails, and zig zag roads leading to palaces. Those narrow roads do not lend well to parking. One prevailing image I have from the misadventure to the Palace of Pena is the number of tuk-tuks on the road. It’s a big clue about how to get around the municipality. Tuk-tuks ferry people all day up and down those steep roads to the palaces and trails and cost around €5. Even more of a life saver for day trips than the tuk-tuks is the number 434 bus, a.k.a. the tourist bus. This runs direct from Sintra Train station stopping at the town centre and then on to Pena Palace and the Castle of the Moors. A one way fare is €3,90 and the buses start at 9:15 am.

You may be tempted to take that hop on hop off bus that colourfully convinces your lazy sub-conscience that it’s the easiest way to move between palaces. Don’t be easily fooled. It also takes you in a loop around the whole Sintra Hills National Park and out to the coast. That’s precious Palace time lost forever.

Quinta de Regaleira (the best thing to do on one day in Sintra)

We weren’t disappointed. It’s rare a place impresses me so much when I didn’t expect it. Quinta de Regaleira house and estate are like an extract from a fantasy novel. There is a magical and mythical feeling within. The Estate was purchased in the late 19th century and work began to create a location that reflected the owners ideologies and interests. He had a vision of a property that blended imagery from alchemy, masonry, and the Knights Templar, with Gothic, Manueline and other styles. What resulted is bizarre and brilliant.

We found parking in a local hotel called the Tivoli Palacio de Seteias. Entry to the UNESCO recognised grounds was only €6 for an adult. This is for an unguided visit but maps are provided. Guided tours are available for €10. Ornaments and structures litter all corners of the four hectare estate. The grounds are supposed to represent the cosmos and each monument is significant in this.

There is a café outside the main house and we refueled there before heading in. The ground floor is lavishly furnished with murals adorning the walls. The upper floors are more barren, but there are balconies from which to view the grounds. One notable room is the library, which has a partially mirrored floor, guaranteed to induce vertigo.

The Grounds of Quinta de Regaleira

But the grounds without doubt are the main attraction, and easily traversed in an hour or so. Immediately outside the house is the Terrace of the Gods, a statue lined walkway which is simply epic. Tunnels link different parts of the grounds, and several of these converge on the initiation well. This is a fascinating subterranean structure containing a labyrinth grotto, and a winding stairs takes one back to the surface level. It is supposedly styled on Dante’s Inferno, and symbolic of his descent into hell.

There are a number of really interesting structures most notably;

Stopping then at Quinta de Regaleira was one of the few things we did well in Sintra. I could say I got it right… but we never even planned to visit. Hands down it was the best of all our stops on that day, and the one place that has left a lasting impression with me.

Praia de Adraga

Next we motored west towards Praia de Adraga, stopping at a bar in Almocageme for lunch. Not too much imagination as hot dogs and sandwiches are served. Then it was on to the beach. It’s a thirty minute drive from Sintra, through a collection of narrow snaking roads. Having found this beach breathtaking during my research the real thing duly emptied my lungs.

It is perfectly remote with no bars or beach clubs to ruin the natural beauty. Large sea stacks provide a target for the Atlantic’s booming waves, with deep caves and arches cut into their base by sea erosion. The immaculate sand stretches from there for several kilometres of uninterrupted beach. It is backed up by wild hills and giant boulders. This is my idea of a beach. The wildness was magnified by a strong coastal wind, but we spent an hour here, Nina playing and us exploring.

While there’s no argument that the beach is a worthwhile distraction from the town and its palaces, it is unfortunately also that. It’s rather out of the way and we lost two hours by our detour. Were I to suggest though that you spend more than one day in Sintra (I may still do that) then Praia de Adraga is possible to visit by bus number 403 that runs hourly. Though I can’t guarantee it will be a comforting ride on those snaking roads.

Palace of Pena (what brings everyone for a day in Sintra)

The round trip to the beach took longer than expected so when we arrived back in Sintra we deliberated that there wasn’t enough time to see our original destination the Palace of Pena. Instead we stopped at the Castelo de Mouros.

With our return came the harshest of realities of how our day was going. Pena Palace was what drew me to Sintra and now I wouldn’t be able to see it. Unless these distant photos count.

History of Pena Palace

Which they don’t. Pena Palace is particularly aesthetic famous for its blend of reds and yellows. Its a long distance from the cold stone behemoths of the British Isles. It is listed as one of the seven wonders of Portugal and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There once stood a monastery on this site but a conspiracy by nature in the 18th century saw it first struck by lightening, and then destroyed by the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755.

From the rubble, King Ferdinand II had a vision of a summer palace for the Kings and Queens of Portugal, and commissioned its building. Finished in 1854 it stands as one of the greatest examples of 19th century romanticism in the world. It’s principal architect was German Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege, whose background included work on some of the castles of the Rhine, but the Pena palace also includes elements of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance architecture.

Visiting Pena Palace

Pena Palace is the most visited site in Sintra, so I would recommend getting there early before the crowds arrive en masse. Grab the first tuk-tuk you see in Sintra. The park opens from 9 am with the palace following shortly after at 9.30 am. Entry into the palace is €14 for an adult, or to Pena Park is €7.50. Interestingly, its often noted that the inside of the palace is quite small, quite crowded and questionably worth the price of admission. The list includes Linda from Meandering My Way. Before I start justifying my decisions on the day I’ll stop myself. Seeing the castle up close in all its majesty is A MUST in Sintra. Walk its grounds and appreciate it from all angles, and peer down onto Sintra from above.

Castelo Dos Mouros

The Castelo de Mouros was built by the Moors in the 9th Century but fell into ruin after the Christian reconquest. It was restored in the 19th century. What remains are the significant battlements that snake around the Sintra hills, high above the town. Entry is €8 to see the castle. Be prepared for a lot of walking and a lot of steps. The castle is a series of stairs connecting the battlements which sit atop the various hills in their path. The views to Sintra below and across the hill to the Palace above are exhilarating. The hills are all interconnected by hiking paths and a few days could easily be spent discovering their treasures.

I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Moorish Castle and the views are stupendous. Why I chose it over Pena Palace, I can’t say now, but I don’t feel regret in having done so. To use those trails to hike between the two and visit both is what I implore you to do after your early morning visit to Pena Palace. Then follow the trails back down to the town. Follies and fountains fill the hill sides, and only by foot will you find them.

What to bring on a day in Sintra

The expectation is that even if you use the bus to reach Pena Palace, a lot of walking will be done over the day. Good, supportive walking shoes are a must for the terrain, even if you stay off the hiking trails. Bring plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat as a lot of times will be spent outdoors. If visiting in the shoulder seasons, rain cover may be needed, as this is not the Algarve. Last of all bring your sense of adventure, it will be nurtured here.

The Case for Spending more than one day in Sintra

Perhaps the greatest irony about this one day guide to Sintra is that I must confess one day simply isn’t enough to see all it has to offer. I’ve offered a sampling here of its biggest sights. But there’s so many more things to see in Sintra, and perhaps that’s why the one day disappointment exists. You will leave having not seen the Park and Palace of Monserrate, Convent of the Capuchos, Chalet and Garden of the Countess of Edla, the Sanctuary of Peninha and Villa Sassetti. Then there’s the Vale de Lagos Pateira botanical gardens, and the trails of Parque de Merendas. It’s definitely justification to extend that stay.

The coast in this region is nearly as aesthetic as the national park. Given time it’s worth a deviation to beaches such as Praia de Adraga and headlands such as Cabo de Roca. This headland is noted for being the most westerly point on mainland Europe. Further north is Praia das Macas a beach reached in 45 minutes by using the Sintra tram. Above the beach is the archeological site of Alto da Vigia, which marks as far west as the Roman civilisation reached.

Decided to stay in Sintra

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Private Tours of Sintra

If you are interested in a small group private tour of Sintra, they are available through Get Your Guide with some departing from Lisbon for the day. Alternatively it is an excellent source of skip the line tickets for attractions. This is a big consideration when travelling during those busy summer months.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too.

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Interested in visiting some of Europe’s other beautiful cities and towns? Here’s a few suggestions.

What are the Cotswolds?

The Cotswolds is a region in South Central England near Bath and Bristol, containing the Cotswolds hills. The whole region is a succession of rolling hills and has been designated an Area of Outstanding National Beauty. Beneath the hills is a Jurassic formed limestone. Its this golden coloured limestone that brings the area its most distinguishable feature, as it has been heavily mined for centuries and is used to build the areas distinct villages. Characterised by that stone, every village and house you see will have you oooing in amazement. If cake is food-porn then the Cotswolds are architecture-porn.

Our Visit to Castle Combe

A spring road trip in the United Kingdom took us through the Wiltshire countryside, with a stop in Castle Combe village high on the agenda, before the city of Bath. A period Cotswold village of magnificent houses, it would prove to have a lasting impression on my memory. What can I say about Castle Combe? That its possibly my new favourite village. Ever. Period.

Where is Castle Combe?

Castle Combe is located in the county of Wiltshire in South East England. Its nearest town is Chippenham five miles away. The closest city where you might be using as a base is Bath, one of Britain’s oldest and most interesting. Bath is fifteen miles from Castle Combe. Bristol, the local transport hub twenty miles away, has international links to 110 destinations. Cardiff the Welsh capital is fifty miles away while London is one hundred miles away. Its possible to day trip from any to Castle Combe.

The Cotswold village is located on the Bybrook River and is split into two, an upper and lower village. A car park is available near the upper village but we continued on and stopped on the road side bypassing the upper part. You are required to park your car out of the village, with the village being pedestrianized. We went on foot into the village and its a pleasant stroll through the surrounding woodlands.

What to do in Castle Combe

The Village

From first sight it is breathtaking. The village gets its name from a 13th century castle that once stood nearby. Once the castle was destroyed the limestone from the castle was then used to construct some of the cottages of the village. It all is so postcard perfect. Honestly there isn’t a lot to do here but when it all looks this good you will just be lost in the moment. I think that’s enough.

Manor House

While walking around a local woman suggested we enter a private area, and if anyone were to ask to say we were looking for our car. We were glad we did, as a walk by some cute as Christmas houses took us to the beautiful grounds of the Manor House Hotel, a country house from the 17th century and now an upscale hotel and golf club. The house which has quite a history is a Grade II listed building.

The grounds surrounding also were fitting with the river Bybrook cutting through on its way to Castle Combe, and steps leading to well-tended gardens above the house. The Italianate gardens were a delight with flower beds and a croquet lawn adding to the very Victorian feel We couldn’t help but feel we were trespassing a bit so we returned to the village after some brief exploring. Travel goals include returning and staying here some day. Those really wanting to get into the local swing of things, can play a round of golf at the Manor House Golf Club.

Want to stay in style at the Manor House or one of Castle Combes hotels? Book with the link below.

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Walk the length of the Village

All two minutes of it. Each house in the village seems more beautiful than the last and there are the side attractions of the medieval market cross and the church of St Andrews. We walked the length of the village and stopped to photograph the bridge as everyone who enters the town does. Some of the houses are off-limits; it can’t be easy calling somewhere like this home, when every day someone wants to stare in your window.

St Andrews Church is a small but attractive stop on the stroll through. Though originally built in the 13th century, it has been altered many times since and contains several different architectural styles. The graveyard has a number of interesting tombs and gravestones before you reach the structure. At the base of the church tower is a faceless clock, which is considered to be the among the oldest working clocks in the country. Within, the Lady Chapel is of most interest, particularly a memorial to Walter de Dunstanville, the Baron of Castle Combe until 1270.

At the convergence point of Castle Combe’s three main streets is a Market Cross. It was built in the 14th century when the village earned the right to hold a market. The structure is known as a butter cross, a common structure of the time where people would gather to buy and sell dairy.

Have a little lunch or Snack in Castle Combe

There are a few options for food in authentic village surroundings such as the Castle Inn and the Old Rectory Tea Room. The Old Rectory tea rooms are in a house dating from 1490, and are open to groups of six or more by reservation. The Castle Inn is even older, with its origins in the 12th century. The pub below is as traditional as it gets, and its fare as British as possible, with pies, fish and chips and afternoon tea served. We had a quick coffee and scone in the Old Stables Coffee Shop a pleasant place with very friendly staff. The outdoor seating is ideal to enjoy them on sunny mornings.

Castle Combe in the Movies

If you recognise the village a little it’s probably from its use as the set in many main stream movies and shows. From the original Doctor Doolittle to modern day Downton Abbey, the town has hosted Anthony Hopkins in the Wolfman, and the great Steven Spielberg. Many of the main scenes of Warhorse were filmed here.

Castle Combe Circuit

It is also famed for the Castle Combe circuit, with race meetings taking place each year in the nearby World War II airfield. The Polish airmen of the war were soon replaced by loud fast cars. Over the past 70 years Formula 3 cars, motorcycles, sports and Gt’s have all hurled around the track. Annually there is a two day summer meeting, with a full weekend of racing. It’s the guaranteed busiest weekend of the year in the passive Cotswolds village.

Take a Guided Tour of Castle Combe and the Cotswolds

There are many group tours take make a stop in Castle Combe while visiting the Cotswolds and Stratford-upon-Avon. Get your guide offers a reliable service to book a tour.

Castle Combe Gallery

As I mentioned before the greatest joys are in walking and admiring. With that in mind I will let my photos speak for themselves. They usually say a thousand words, and no truer than when a village looks like this. The following is my argument that Castle Combe is Britain’s finest.

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Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too.

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I have visited Eger twice, the first in 2015 when huge efforts were being made to renovate the city. This visit was tarnished as a result but we returned to see it in its prime, with its front foot firmly planted forward. The city is the location of several magnificent churches, a castle overlooking the town, some Turkish Baths, fine Baroque architecture, and is the centre of a famed wine region. Enough to further its claim as Hungary’s most beautiful city. To see the city a few days are needed and here are my suggestions on what not to miss. But first, the logistics.

Budapest to Eger

Eger is located about 133 km north-east of Budapest, near the Bukk mountains and National Park. That’s about a 2 hour drive along M3 and M25 motorways. Alternatively there is a train running from Budapest-Keleti station that reaches the city in about 1 hour 50 minutes. The trains runs daily on the hour, and the railway station is 1.5 km from the city centre.

Eger is a small city in Northern Hungary with only a population of around 53,000 people, making it the 19th most populace in Hungary. This means it is easy to navigate on foot. There are a fleet of buses run by KMKK Zrt. serving the town, which are useful for connections from the train and bus station and the Valley of the Beautiful Women. Before all the hot blooded males in my readership get too excited though, I suggest you read on.

Where to Stay in Eger

Most of Eger’s visitors are Hungarians, or from the Czech republic or Slovakia. Most of the rest of the world is really missing out. While Eger is more traditionally visited as a day trip, its definitely worth staying a night. Eger’s compact centre mean that wherever you find accommodation, you are always close to amenities. Hotels and apartments are available at very reasonable rates, starting at around the €40 mark and rarely exceeding €100. At the tip of this are luxury offerings such as Hotel Corona Wellness, Hotel Eger and Imola Hotel Platin. At the lower end are a number of panzio’s which are more similar to B&B’s.

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History of Eger, Hungary

Eger was formed in the 10th century by Saint Stephen, the patron saint of Hungary. It started as a religious settlement, with a cathedral where Eger Castle now stands. Or doesn’t stand as it turns out. The settlement grew around the cathedral. From the 12th century, viticulture was practiced here, a tradition still carried to this day. In 1241 a Mongol invasion briefly stopped Eger’s growth, by burning the place to the ground.

But Eger rose from the ashes like a Phoenix. The ruling archbishops ordered that a castle replace the cathedral which once stood. Forests were cleared and wine became the focus. However the 16th century would prove tumultuous, as battles raged in the empire and the castle changed hands many times. Eger Castle would write itself in the history books in 1552 (see below) in defence against the Ottoman empire. However in 1596, Eger would fall, and a near century of Ottoman rule would follow. A Habsburg led crusade finally defeated the Ottomans in 1687.

What followed was a time of rebuilding again, and a further occupation by the Habsburgs. An 8 year war of independence in the early 18th century failed, and soon after a plague beset the town. Once again Eger rose from this and many of its current Baroque buildings where built in the subsequent century. In the failed rebellion of 1848, the archbishops who ruled the town were finally overthrown. Eger was slow to react to the industrial revolution, and as a consequence didn’t grow as other Hungarian cities have in the following centuries. Which is in itself a blessing for the visitor, as it retains its charm.

Things to do in Eger, Hungary

Eger Castle

Standing over the town Eger castle is one of those rarities, a castle without any obvious castle. But don’t let that deter you. Built on a rock above the city, it’s a tantalising walk up along the outside till you reach the castles gates. Entrance costs 1400 HUF giving access to all exhibits. At this time 1 Euro is equal to around 357 HUF (Hungarian Forint).

The walls and the towering views from them are probably the main attraction here. The castle still has a rough feel with the rock face exposed in many places giving it more of an air of authenticity. It was in a poor state of repair when it was entrusted to the state. Most of the buildings within are newish constructs, many of them hosting museums.

The Istvan Dodo Museum showcases the history of the castle, and don’t miss the Kazamatak (casemates) a series of cellars that run underground, and also the dungeon that hosts a morbid torture museum. Most of your time however is best spent looking across those formidable walls to the beautiful city that lies beneath. The views from the though ramparts are what will mostly drag you here and it’s exactly where you want to be as the sun sets over the town.

History of Eger Castle

Eger castle was constructed first in the thirteenth century and grew rapidly. It’s greatest historical fame lies in the repelling of a 40000 strong Turkish army in 1552, by a Hungarian army of 400. It’s the tale of the 300 Spartans told the Magyar way. During the siege the defending soldiers led by Dobo Istvan, asked that the cellars beneath the castle be cracked open. The Egri Bikavér wine was savaged and its thick red juices ran down the beards of the soldiers. This led the Turkish soldiers to think it was mixed with bull’s blood to give the soldier’s strength and they were demoralised. Defeat soon followed. More on that wine later. The castle suffered its final loss in 1701, when the Austrians blew it up. As goes the story of pretty much every Hungarian Castle.

Eger’s Churches

This is where Eger really excels. There are in particular three very different churches that simply amazed me to see.

The Minorite Church

The Minorite Church is the focal point of the Dobo Istvan Square. From the exterior its twin bell towers do draw the eye in the square but it’s upon entering that the church really astounds. The original church that stood here was destroyed by floods and the present one was finished in 1771. The Baroque style was flourishing in Europe at the time with the backing of the catholic church, and the interior here is a fantastic display of baroque art.

There are a five sections of vaulting, and each of them are beautiful to inspect. They contain a series of scenes from the life of St Anthony. Also there are three altars each of them as intrinsically decorated as each other, and a couple of hand carved pews that are possibly the churches most beautiful attribute. All the more surprising is that no admission charge is in effect for such an aesthetic church.

That said, the church belonged to the Franciscan Order and they were less than pleased with the extravagance of the church at large. The architect was a renowned Bohemian architect who worked predominantly in Prague. His name was completely omitted from the plague commemorating those who built the church. The interior vaulting art was by Marton Reindl and the church weren’t happy with his work either, citing its poor quality. Clearly they saw something I didn’t. Or perhaps didn’t want to pay simply.

Serbian Church

The St Nicholas Greek Orthodox Serbian Church lies outside the city centre but is worth the detour. I drove out but it is about a 15 minute walk out. It’s position atop a hill and it’s onion dome gives it distinction. The church is no longer used for religious reasons and now serves as an exhibition centre. Built during the 17th century and altered more in the 18th not much remains of the original interior. But there’s one really good reason to visit this church. Its accessed by a wooden gate from a quiet side street, and the dilapidated headstones give no notice of what lies within. We were met by the curator, whose house lies within the grounds. An entry charge of 400 HUF was exchanged and we were led inside.

The interior contains a work known as an iconostasis which separates the nave from the sanctuary. Measuring 10 metres by 12.5 metres, and featuring 60 different panels carved by Nicola Jankovic and painted by Anton Kuchelmeister. It took two years to complete in the 18th century. Made up of gold leaf and braid its a simply stunning piece of art and astoundingly beautiful to look at. The church also contains a very authentic pulpit designed in the same ilk as the iconostasis.

Eger Basilica

Eger Basilica is probably the lesser of the three churches within the city but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth including in a tour. On my more complete second visit to the city I certainly did. This neo-classical church was completed in the mid 19th century, and the only thing affirming its pious function is the cross atop its roof. The impressive building is reached by a flight of steps and its columns dwarf its entrance.

It’s the most expensive of the Eger churches set to enter at 800 HUF, but there is a large interior space to explore. Its greatest asset is its collection of domes which run along the central nave. The best of these were painted by Istvan Takacs and feature scenes from the apocalypse. The high ceilings of the church are bathed in light from the ceiling level windows, and the illuminated paintings are very attractive. The altar and organ are the churches other worthwhile features.

Walk the Streets of Eger

The city itself is a pleasure to stroll through. The small Eger-Patak (a river) calmly weaves past streets and under bridges. The Baroque buildings and architecture are a mismatch of colours, all bright yellows and pinks, and it works to perfection. It reminds me of an Italian town, from the laid back cafes to the gelaterias. The streets are mostly pedestrianized, and we had to park our car outside the centre and walk in, but it all adds to the atmosphere for this perfect little city.

Valley of the Beautiful Woman- Where to try Bulls Blood Red Wine

We stayed in the Tulipan Garden Panzio in Eger which was a little outside the city in a very pretty neighbourhood. But better still it was a short walking distance from the Szepasszony-volg, or the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. This is the centre of Eger’s famous wine trade and the area is full of Pince (wine cellars), big and small, offering their take on the red wine. Eger also produces a number of original whites such as Egri Leanyka, Ererszolati, and Debroi Harslevelu. Of late Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also produced.

Egri Bikaver or Bull’s Blood, is a blend of five different grapes and besides its battle winning qualities, it is also quite delicious. I found it more to my palate than the sweeter wines of Tokaj, Hungary’s more famous wine region. Read my travel guide on the Tokaj Wine Region here.

Eger Wine Tasting

The area is characterised by the pince, many of which are reminiscent of a cave. We took advice from a random by passer and ventured into the open number 17. It was cold, it was dank, the proprietor didn’t speak English… and the wine was fantastic. He poured the glasses from a long glass beaker and a tasting glass cost a mere 100 HUF. That’s about 30 cents. It was a wonderful introduction to the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. We later left the confines of the cellar and ventured into the main square of the area, which is surrounded by food stalls and enough cellars to leave one in a very inebriated state. We again followed advice but this time from a Hungarian friend and settled into the more comfortable Molnar Pinceszet, for some more Bikaver and Muskotaly.

You could easily spend the evening here with a wide selection of dining and drinking options, or like us you could make your way into the city. It’s nearly 4km in so unless you fancy the walk there are shuttles that run into the Basilica. It’s the only time I felt like I fell into a tourist trap in the city, and at 2000 HUF a person it was daylight robbery, but we paid it for the convenience.

The Minaret

The Minaret is a leftover from the Ottoman occupation. It was constructed in the 17th century as part of the mosque which once stood here. It stands 40 metres high and was built from red sandstone. Much of the Ottoman monuments were destroyed after the break from their rule but any attempts to destroy this minaret failed, including that by 400 oxen with ropes. They like the number 400 in Eger. It stands as the most northerly minaret still in existence.

The Minaret is an incredibly thin tower and anyone with claustrophobia would do well to steer clear. I climbed it on my earlier visit which was fortunate as during the summer of 2018 it was undergoing some restorative works. It only cost 300 HUF at the time to enter and both I and Beata paid in to climb it. When we stepped inside she took one look which was followed by a refund. I wasn’t to be so easily put off, and made the 97 step climb to the viewing platform. It is very narrow on those stairs with only space for a single person. But I always feel its worth it for the views and Eger is such a colourful city. The blend of yellow, red, white and green really tantalised the eye.

Marzipan Museum

Just off the bottom of the Minaret is the very niche but beautiful Marzipan Museum. This museum is the brain child of Hungarian pastry chef, Kopcsik Lajos. The chef found fame internationally for his creations and this spurred him to open a museum to showcase them. It’s a very visual museum and its amazing what he was capable of doing with almond and sugar.

Amongst the many exhibits include a Russian Family, a full size grandfather clock. a model of the Minaret, and numerous heads, recreations of artworks and ornaments. It’s all done very tastefully. The centerpiece of the museum is a recreation of a baroque room, in honour of Eger’s baroque tradition. All of the exhibits are incredibly made from marzipan, and the handiwork is very admirable. It’s not a huge museum but it is a perfect distraction for those seeking something different. It certainly tops the unusual list for things to do in Eger Hungary.

Lyceum

The Lyceum is one of the more unusual visits I made. It was originally constructed in Baroque grandeur to be a university, but the Hapsburgs put a halt to its opening. So what exists is an enormous building encircling a courtyard, with vast empty halls. Or so it seemed in summer. It finally realised its university ambitions in the 20th century. Admission was 500 HUF each and directional signs take you up grand staircases to the observatory tower. The exhibitions are part science museum, and part gallery of the astronomical equipment that were originally purchased for the university.

One final stairs takes you to a roof, for more fine views over the city. It’s best to wait till twenty minutes past the hour, as at this point one is taken up to the camera obscura. At the time this was built it was only the second in Europe after Edinburgh. As the room darkens and the optics move into position, it’s a really intriguing twenty minutes as sights from the city are projected. You have to admire the engineering that constructed it. The tour guide here was multilingual and had excellent English. There was good humour in his presentation too and it was quite interactive.

One final sight worth visiting is the library, with its ceiling frescoes by Kracker. It is one of three rooms that the talented Austrian painted, however this is the only one open to the public.

Archbishops Palace

We also visited the Archbishops Palace the 18th century home of the head of the church. It has been recently renovated and now hosts the Eger art museum on the first floor. At 1800 HUF it was the most expensive of the Eger attractions and the most disappointing as well. The identity seems to have been lost in the renovation. The ground floor showcases many vestments and reliquaries from the church. The rooms that maintained their original furnishings, such as the study room with its murals, were beautiful. Perhaps the buildings most lavish room is the small chapel located within, but this can only be seen through an elevated viewing platform and glass.

The City Under The City

The City under the City attraction is a guided only tour that takes you into the archbishop cellars. The tour takes about 45 minutes but we were a little put off. It’s quite cold down below and we weren’t really dressed for it and all tours are only in Hungarian, so unless you are more fluent than I (I can order a drink or food) it detracts from the experience.

Turkish Baths

Every Hungarian city worth its salt has its own thermal baths, and Eger is no exception. Warm thermal waters flow beneath the ground of the entire city, and several bath complexes are available. The most traditional of these are the Turkish Baths built by Abdi Pasha the Albanian between 1610 and 1617. Besides the relaxing six pools that are now available to guests, its main feature is a cupula which is covered in 200,000 gold plated mosaics. Also worth seeing is the modern thermal bath Bitskey Aladar, named after a famous swimmer. It features secession architecture, an art nouveau style made famous in Eastern Europe at the turn of the last century.

Egri Road Beatles Museum

In the city’s Corona Hotel, is the rather unexpected Beatles Museum. It takes visitors back in time through the bands career with music, photographs, and newspaper clippings. I could find no relationship between the band and Eger, but hey its The Beatles- does there need to be? The guided tour costs 2500 HUF per person.

Dining on Istvan Dobó Ter

István Dobó Square is Eger’s main square and plenty of restaurants and cafes are in the surrounding area. With a backdrop of the castle and the Minorite Church it’s an aesthetic way to dine. We had lunch in HBH Bajor Sorhaz, an upmarket restaurant where I can recommend the delicious goose leg and the Rantott Hus. It’s one of the best places in town to get that delicious breaded pork.

We returned to the square that evening as the last shards of daylight left, and had dinner in Senator-haz Etterem. Here we were content to order the venison goulash, and we were lucky enough to have landed here on 20th September which is the public holiday in honour of St Istvan, the founder of the Hungarian nation. We had prime seats for the firework display that marked this occasion as they lit the sky above us.

Why Eger is Hungary’s Most Beautiful

Eger is a touristic city, but far from being swamped in tourism. It’s charms have yet to draw in large numbers of visitors and its sights can be easily enjoyed.

As Hungarian cities go it impressed me the most. The qualities of Budapest are well known, but this little city may just sneak it on charm and charisma.

The sights are strictly limited to the city. The surrounding area contains salt terraces, cave houses and the Matra Mountains. It’s why I recommend an extended stay in Eger. My guide to the Matra Mountains.

Let someone else show you Eger

There are a number of tours of Eger running directly from Budapest, if you choose to see the city that way. Get your guide offers two very interesting ones, taking in the surrounding countryside too.

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