Christians and Orthodox both celebrate Easter, albeit at different times. The biggest differences are the practices between countries and indeed even within them. Many of these stem from folk practices rather than religious ones, that have been moulded to match the holiday. Therefore we now have a range of unique celebrations of Easter in Europe. It’s a cultural treasure just waiting to be explored, and thankfully has been by some of the best bloggers around. This is their experiences of the different Easter celebrations in Europe.

The Origins of Easter in Europe through to the Modern Day

Easter firstly found its origins in the celebrations of Eostre. This was a celebration around the time of the spring equinox dedicated to the Anglo-Saxon goddess of Spring and Fertility of the same name. Ancient stories of Eostre commonly link her with eggs, a symbol of fertility and new life, and hares. Perhaps because of the spring in their step. However the latter may have been changed over the centuries by folk people. This fact has been lost to time and history though.

The earliest known celebration of Easter by Christians came in the 2nd century. However it took many more full moons before the current means of deciding when Easter should fall came into being. This was agreed upon in the 8th century, when they finally settled on the first full moon after the spring equinox. This corresponds with the month of Nisan in the Hebrew Calendar.

The Eastern Orthodox Church has a different means of calculating Easter as they used the Julian Calendar rather than the Gregorian one. It usually means that Orthodox Easter can fall up to a month after the Christian one. While efforts have been made to fix Easter on a specific date, no agreement has been reached. Easter can fall anytime between March and May, depending on religion and the calendar.

With such indecision over the centuries as to when Easter should fall, is it little wonder that how Easter is celebrated from country to country, and even village to village. While most involve religious elements, many also blend folk traditions into it. In doing so they create their own unique celebration of Easter. Many of the celebrations begin on Palm Sunday and continue all through holy week.

The Unique Traditions of Easter in Europe

While commercial Easter has become all about Easter Bunnies, Chocolate Eggs, and Egg Hunts, it’s the unique Easter in Europe traditions that I’ve asked bloggers to introduce you to

Easter in Europe really does vary drastically country by country. The tradition of the Easter Bunny started in Germany, and it brings the eggs. In France its “les cloches de Pâques”, aka the Easter bells. These fly away to Rome in Italy and return on Easter Sunday with the eggs. Naturally Rome itself is the Catholic epicenter of Easter. St Peters Basilica hosts a huge Easter mass.

Though its Enna the island of Sicily, and its parade of 2000 friars dressed in white cloaks that wins the unique award. Its smaller European destinations such as this that possess the most original ceremonies. Read on and hopefully we can motivate you on where to spend your Easter holiday in 2022.

Easter in Ireland

Despite being perceived as a traditional country, Ireland has been on a fast track to modernity over the last century. With that much of its old culture has been lost. The only Easter tradition to survive to this day in some form is the “cludog”. This is how egg hunts were known back then. Though the tradition then was to roast them and after the hunt place the shells around the bottom of a Mulberry Bush.

Gone are some of the older traditions such as watching the sun dance (getting up to see the sunrise); the cake dance (a dance around a cake of course); and the bonfires that once marked each big event in the Irish calendar.

Whipping the herring out of Town

However the tradition that’s really unique and sorely missed is “whipping the herring out of town”. This is a throwback to the time when Ireland was devoutly Catholic. Eating meat or animal products was forbidden for the 40 days of Lent. Before you assume the Irish were the first vegans, they substituted with fish, with herring the cheapest and most common.

Butchers suffered immensely during this time. Therefore when Easter Sunday came around, a herring was mounted on a stick and paraded through the town while been whipped. It was then given a mock funeral in a river. The herring was then replaced on the stick with a quarter of lamb. This was decorated in ribbons, as the butchers celebrated a return to business.

Sadly you can only see a painting by Nathaniel Grogan of the ceremony now, at the Crawford Gallery in Cork. It’s time butchers resurrected the tradition.

The Sprinkling in Holloko in Hungary

By John from CarpeDiemEire.

Holloko is a as small village in Northern Hungary that keeps alive the old traditions of the country. In doing so it is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, and has become one of the biggest travel destinations in Hungary outside of Budapest. This applies in particular during Easter, when the village hosts a huge festival.

Most come to see the particular tradition known as the sprinkling. This was once popular in Hungary, Slovakia and Poland, but as the countries left behind their village way of life, the tradition was left too. Not so in Holloko and many parts of Hungary. Sprinkling for those that are unfamiliar is a folk belief, that by throwing a bucket of water over a young girl (usually of marrying age) she will then be fertile and not wilt.

While it looks and sounds somewhat barbaric it isn’t, and nowadays is predominantly done for fun or spectacle. While in villages the bucket has been replaced by perfume that gets splashed on the head (in exchange for palinka or decorated eggs), Holloko still goes all the way.

Its the real highlight of a full weekend of festivities that make spending Easter in Holloko in Hungary a great idea. Besides this there is a full program of events with Easter markets, food stalls, live music and entertainment.

Semana Santa in Andalusia Spain

Contributed by Faith of XYUandBEYOND.

Semana Santa (Easter) is celebrated throughout Spain and you can be assured that every single region will have a parade and special events.

In Andalucía Semana Santa begins on the Sunday before Easter. La Madruga as it is known as was started in the 16^th century. It allowed people to participate in the Passion of the Christ.

Brotherhoods known as Cofradias are responsible for carrying the massive floats known as tronos. The tronos are floats with one figure such as Christ or Mary. There are also pasos floats with more than one figure that depict events such as the Last Supper. 

The men carrying the tronos or pasos will often wear blindfolds signifying they are making a sacrifice to ask for favours from God for their family or friends, never for themselves. 

The floats are followed by capirotes who are penitents related to the Cofradia they follow. A capirote is a tall conical hat that is believed to bring the wearer closer to god. 

The parades are always accompanied by brass bands and music which is an important part of the celebrations. During the parade a saeta will be performed. The Saeta is an ancient traditional Spanish religious song and it is performed from a balcony overlooking the parade route.  

The parades will wind their way throughout the villages from one of its churches to a central Cathedral and all along the route you will find onlookers and celebrants. It is a joyous celebration that you can’t miss if you plan on being in Spain throughout Easter.

Franconian Easter Fountains of Germany

By Corinne Vail at Reflections Enroute.

Every year, a small region of Bavaria called Franconia decorates their fountains in the centre of town with Easter eggs and pine boughs. Many are decorated in the shape of a crown. The eggs are decorated by the townspeople, often at the elementary school. Everyone gets involved, and it’s a great road trip to plot a route through the towns and see which fountain you like the best.

The fountains are decorated about two weeks before Easter, and stay up for another week afterwards so there’s plenty of time to go. Some of the towns that have annually decorate their fountains are: Heiligenstadt, Birkenreuth, Zapfendorf, and Weiden in der Oberpfalz, but there really are many to choose from. My advice is to take your time. Visit the towns and see all their decorations and fountains, then stop for a great seasonal lunch of trout or lamb.
Franconia is in central Germany, easily accessible by train.

However, to get out into the villages, it will be necessary to rent a car. I suggest taking a flight or train to Nuremberg, renting a car there and making a circuitous route. You’ll love it.

Pomlazka in the Czech Republic

By Joanna from The World In My Pocket.

In the Czech Republic, Easter is celebrated more as a welcoming of spring rather than a religious holiday. The celebrations begin with the opening of the Easter Markets in Prague and continue well after Easter day.

One of the unique Czech traditions celebrated at Easter is the Pomlázka, an old pagan custom. On Easter Monday, boys go from house to house with the Pomlázka. This is made out of braided willow branches decorated with ribbons. They ask for the girls to come out and they gently whip their legs with it, whilst singing a tune asking for painted eggs. This is actually a ritual of fertility dating back from the 13^th century done so that the women don’t “dry out” during the rest of the year. In return, the girls give the boys a painted egg and tie another ribbon to their Pomlázka. 

Whilst outside of the Czech Republic the Pomlázka might sound like an odd tradition, in the country it is accepted pretty much everywhere. If a woman doesn’t want to be whipped on Easter Monday, she simply doesn’t open the door. However, many do, especially if they are looking forward to having a baby in the following year.

Butarice in Slovenia

By Helene from Wandering Helene

Easter traditions in Slovenia are plentiful and begin in February for Shrovetide, but after Ash Wednesday things quiet down until a week before Easter.

A tradition found throughout Slovenia, and some other parts of Central Europe is the cvetnonedeljske butare (Palm Sunday bundles). These are “bouquets” of foraged sticks, vines, flowers, greenery, and other bits found in the forest. Across the country, there are variations in the style and name. 

In Ljubljana, where there is not as much forest, they developed their own style. The Ljubljana butara or butarica is made with brightly painted spruce wood shavings. Just before Easter, the central market has stands selling these colorful bundles with fresh flowers and greens poking out the top. 

In some parts of the country, the butara uses specific plants to bless livestock, represent symbols in Christianity, or include fruit. The largest one ever made was 304 meters and took 130 men to carry it to the church for its blessing. After a blessing, parts of the butara can be fed to the animals, burned, or placed between the rafters of the home for protection.

The days before Easter is when some people dye eggs. Painted eggs, called pirhi, are an art form with stunning intricate regional motifs passed down through the family. These eggs are placed in a basket along with ham and potica to be blessed at the local church the Saturday before Easter.

If you visit Slovenia for Easter there are butara workshops hosted across the country. There you can learn how to make the traditional bundle for your own. 

Easter in Athens in Greece

By Chrysoula from Athens and Beyond

Easter in Greece is the largest religious festival in the Orthodox calendar. The week leading up to Easter (holy week) is very special. Most Greeks are preparing themselves spiritually for the festival. On Good Friday (Megali Paraskevi), housewives spend the morning in their local church decorating the purple draped Epitafios (tabernacle with the icon of Christ’s entombment) with beautiful white flowers. They have usually completed their work by lunchtime, so it is well worth popping into a few churches to admire their work.

Early the same evening, the women return to the church to sing the Heritismi (anthem to Our Lady). At about 9.00 p.m. the Epitafios is carried through the streets of the neighborhood in a procession led by the priest chanting prayers and 12 Bible readings.  His parishioners walk slowly behind him, carrying lit candles.

If you are staying in Athens, a lovely church to visit to see the decorated Epitafios is Agia Ekaterina (St Catherine) in Plaka. It was built in the 11th century in a cruciform shape with a central dome. Plaka has many bars and restaurants, so a stroll later in the evening will give you the opportunity to see the candlelit procession.    

The Procession of the Holy Blood in Bruges

By Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

The Procession of the Holy Blood is held every year in Bruges, Belgium on Ascension Day. This is the Thursday that falls 40 days after Easter. This procession celebrates a holy relic said to contain a piece of the blood-stained cloth Joseph of Arimathea used to wipe the face of Jesus Christ after his death. The cloth was preserved and brought to Bruges during the Second Crusade in the 12th Century. It’s believed by some that on Ascension Day, the dried blood becomes liquid again.

Over 3000 participants march in the procession annually. This includes local politicians, clergy, and members of the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood, who look after the holy relic. The parade, divided into four segments, first relays Bible stories from the Old and New Testaments. Following this the history of the relic arriving in Bruges, and the final religious component, which includes the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood displaying the holy relic itself. The parade includes floats, costumed actors, musicians, a menagerie of animals (including camels!) and even jugglers dressed in Medieval garb.

The procession begins after morning Mass (around 2:30pm) and starts at the Dijver Canal at 8000 Brugge. It is free to attend, but you need to purchase a ticket if you want to sit in the stands or on a bench along the route. Click here https://www.bloedprocessiebrugge.be/en/ for more information on the procession, route and how to buy tickets for a seat.

Throwing Clay Pots from Windows is Corfu

By Nina from Lemons and Luggage

One of the most unique Easter traditions in Europe takes place on the Greek island of Corfu. Located in the Ionian Sea, you can reach the island from Athens by plane.

Corfu is known for its many marching bands, and these play an important role during Easter. In the afternoon of Good Friday, the center of the capital Corfu is filled with them playing mourning songs while various churches perform their Easter processions.

One final procession takes place on Saturday after which people celebrate the so-called first resurrection. This fascinating aspect of Easter in Corfu takes place at 11 am. People throw clay pots filled with water from windows and balconies before marching bands play celebratory music. Thousands of people watch this ritual and take pieces of the pots home for good luck.

There are several theories as to the origins of this ritual. According to one the Ancient Greeks threw out their old clay pots and replaced them with new ones to mark the arrival of spring. Another theory states that the Venetians who ruled the island for several centuries used to throw out old objects to start the new year with new ones. The locals then moved the ritual to Orthodox Easter and used clay pots.

At midnight the big Easter ceremony takes place with thousands of candles being lit as well as fireworks. Finally, people in Corfu like the rest of Greece have enormous barbecues but don’t worry, there are places to eat vegan in Corfu as well.

Holy Saturday in Crete

By Roxanne from Faraway Worlds

Easter in Crete is one of the most important holidays of the year. While the largest of the Greek islands is only a short flight from Athens, Crete’s has its own distinctive Easter traditions. Greece celebrates Orthodox Easter, which is based on the Julian calendar.

This typically falls a couple of weeks later than is celebrated in Catholic or Protestant churches. One of the highlights of Easter in Crete falls on Holy Saturday. Typically, a late mass is held, which finishes just before midnight and is extremely well attended. Just before the end of mass, the Holy Candle is lit and everyone lights their sacred candles from the holy flame. At the end of mass, fireworks start and a bonfire is lit, where an effigy of Judas is burnt outside the church.

After mass, people hurry home with their candles and mark their doors with a black cross from the ash. This is supposed to bring luck for the coming year. The 40-day fast ends at midnight, so many families break their fast at home, otherwise, many tavernas are open after the midnight service with food and live music. Easter in Greece is a lively affair, and people eat until late into the night.

Egg Rolling in Northern Ireland

By Allan from It’s Sometimes Sunny in Bangor  

Egg rolling is a traditional Easter game played annually where hard boiled eggs are decorated with dyes and paints before rolling them down a hill. There are different versions of this game played in different countries but most will follow a similar set of rules within the United Kingdom.

Locally for myself in Northern Ireland, we would always prepare the eggs the day before Easter by boiling them first with onion skins to dye the outer shell. The dye was never overly necessary however as the hard boiled eggs were then painted and decorated. This was using watercolor or acrylic paints mostly, but not specifically, with Easter themes. The paint is then left to dry overnight, then, on Easter Day, local parents would bundle their kids in the car and head off to a place called Scrabo Tower.

This is a location around a 15-minute drive from Belfast City Centre, for the annual Easter egg roll. At the top of the hill the eggs are then rolled down the slope, and the contestant whose egg rolls farthest, without breaking or getting lost, is the winner. Unfortunately it is a dying tradition but more official events have kept traditions alive in other parts of the U.K. 

Cross Prosessions on Hvar in Croatia

By Gabrijela from Under Flowery Sky

Island Hvar is one of the most beautiful islands in Croatia. It is located 2 hours by ferry from Split or 1 hour by katamaran. Split is easily reachable from Zagreb which usually takes around 5 hours by bus.

This whole night event is an ancient tradition dating 500 years back. Every Holy Thursday at 10 pm, six local churches simultaneously start walking through the villages of Vrbanj, Vrboska, Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirče to come back to the starting point. During 8 hours, participants pass more than 25 km. One person acts as guide carrying the cross all the way, a person who was chosen 20 years prior. This procession is part of UNESCO’s cultural heritage.

Picturesque towns of island Hvar include: Hvar which is an administrative centre; Starigrad- one of the oldest towns in Europe where the beautiful palace of the local poet Petar Hektorović is located; Vrboska which is also called Little Venice, and Jelsa- known for its laid back atmosphere.

Easter celebrations in Europe

The celebrations of Easter in Europe that are seen around the continent are diverse enough to ensure that in fact nearly all are worth seeing on their own merits. Even within countries such as Greece, the mainland and islands celebrate vastly different. It’s a great opportunity to experience some of the unique cultural differences that still exit between the nations on the block. Easter is usually an ideal time to start your travelling year also, as Spring is in full swing in Europe. Which of these Easter celebrations in Europe would you book first?

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Cities such as London, Bristol, and Berlin definitely lead the way with their long established scenes. What’s amazing to see is the growth of street art in cities not typically associated with the art form. Street art is exploding across Europe now, and more and more people appreciating the way it transforms their hometowns. It all means good news for us, the traveller.

Street art tourism is alive and well. Factoring in a day of exploring a well worn route or simply getting lost in a street art neighbourhood, is now becoming a must on any city break itinerary. What city will you see next?

The 30 Best Cities to see Street Art in Europe

Waterford, Ireland

Waterford might not be the first city name on everyone’s lips where street art in Europe is concerned, but I suggest it’s time to sit up and pay attention. The Waterford Walls festival is an annual event in August inviting the best of Ireland and the world to come and paint the cities walls.

The committee from Waterford Walls, led by Edel have done a tremendous job attracting so much talent. As it’s a small city, the result is there’s never a colourful wall far from you. Which means it’s great for wandering and seeing what you can find. Of course, you can follow my street by street guided tour.

The art starts from grassroots level thanks to local workshops, to Waterford’s own Coilfhionn Hanton who paints annually. Some of the most vibrant murals are as the result of Dan Leo, Curtis Hylton, Monkey Bird and Dan Kitchner who all brought their very distinctive work to the city. All artists are encouraged to paint as they wish, but many chose to draw from the history and fauna of Waterford.

One mural caught my eye prior to my visit and upon seeing first hand thoroughly lived up to expectations. Entitled Sonny, by the South African artist of the same name. The artist blends fantasy with the natural world in his work. The full wall features a girl in feather headdress with a white tiger. It’s wonderful.

Waterford is 2 hours from Dublin by both road and train and a must visit for street art fans.

Derry

By Tom from Travel Past 50

All along Rossville Street, in Bogside, Derry, Northern Ireland, are murals painted by a trio of artists collectively known as The Bogside Artists.

Tom Kelly, his brother William Kelly, and Kevin Hasson started painting the murals in 1993 to illustrate the “Troubles” in Northern Ireland, particularly those in Derry, which culminated on “Bloody Sunday” when, on January 30, 1972, British paratroopers killed 13 unarmed demonstrators.

The images are sometimes taken from photos taken on Bloody Sunday and during the “Battle of the Bogside.” Others are pure commemorations of hope, such as a dove on an oak leaf, symbolizing, at last, peace in Derry.

With supplies donated from local residents, the Bogside Artists painted the murals on the walls of Rossville Street buildings. From 1994 to 2008, they painted a total of twelve murals on this street in the Bogside, which they named The People’s Gallery.

The People’s Gallery spans the entire length of Rossville Street, which runs through the center of the Bogside, an entire street devoted to the history in art form of over three decades of political conflict.

Christiania Freetown in Copenhagen

by Anda from Travel for a While 

Christiania Freetown is a self-proclaimed independent area on Danish territory, within Copenhagen to be exact. It is home to less than 1000 people. Most of them are creative characters in search of a different life. They have a flag, a currency, and a voting system where every citizen takes part in the commune’s decisions.

One of the main reasons to visit Christiania is some amazing street art. You don’t need a map, it is literally all over the place. The abandoned military buildings of the area needed some color indeed. Also, the locals are blessed with a vivid, happy imagination. The skatepark inside Christiania Freetown is called Wonderland, and you couldn’t find a more suitable name for the place.

One of the most representative murals was done in 2016 by 5 artists. It represents the never-ending forest of purple Cats and 3D graffiti. Danish artist Rasmus Balstroem got together with Welin, Tonek, and 5.7 Crew.

Rasmus Balstroem is an incredible artist from Copenhagen who likes using freestyle drawing techniques. The two French artists from Montepellier, Sebastien (Sweo) and Marlene (Nikita) form the 5.7 Crew. Nikita likes to paint women in a warrior or fantasy style, while Sweo masters 3D letter-paintings.

Tonek is also a Danish artist. Tattoo art is his main thing, but he also enjoys graffiti and painting murals.

Andreas Welin is another Copenhagen-based artist. He worked extensively on murals spread from Melbourne, Australia to New York.

When these artists came together, they created an amazing mural that features all of their styles. Moreover, it captures the true Wonderland spirit of Christania.

Dundalk, Ireland

By John from CarpeDiemEire

Dundalk is the new pretender to Ireland’s street art throne. Following the same plan to attract talent, Dundalk runs an annual festival knows as Seek Dundalk. It only began in 2019, as a result of a collaboration between Dundalk Graffiti Artist and Graphic Designer Barry Finnegan (Omin) and Dundalk Town Centre Commercial Manager Martin McElligott. It’s aim of course was to make Dundalk, an outdoor art gallery.

They succeeded. Considering two of those years were hit by Covid restrictions, it’s quite amazing the amount of new works that have appeared. Dundalk is by no means a large city, and all of the art is within a stones throw of its main avenues.

Some of the legendary artists who have come to Dundalk and left their mark are Omin himself, Aches, James Earley, Fris, Claire Provost and Basik. This week, Ireland’s tallest mural was added by Smug, the world famous Australian artist,m. Standing 40 metres high on the Crowne Plaza hotel it depicts Lu, the god of light from Irish mythology. It promised to be another spectacular draw to Dundalk.

Our favourite piece was on Edward Bruce the disputed last High King of Ireland. He died at the Hill of Faughart not far from Dundalk. Using Aches special techniques of blending colour in a 3-d effect, the mural is astounding.

Keep an eye on Dundalk, it is destined to be among the best street art cities in Europe.

Street Art in Europe – Warsaw

By Or from My Path in the World 

Warsaw might not come to mind when thinking about European street art cities, but the Polish capital will not disappoint you. As a city of which 80% got destroyed during WWII, Warsaw makes a huge effort to preserve its history and heritage while also becoming more modern.

While you’ll find a mix of the traditional and modern on both sides of the Vistula River, it is on the eastern side of it, in the unique district of Praga, where most of the street art is found. Surprisingly, only 20% of this area was destroyed during WWII, so you can admire pre-war buildings alongside colorful murals and 21st-century townhouses.

Many of the murals in the city were created by different artists (both Polish and non-Polish), so each piece has its own style. Some of them are not to be missed, including ‘Eastern Warsaw’ by Sebas Velasco, ‘Playground’ by Ernest Zacharevic, ‘Warsaw Fight Club’ by Conor Harrington, and my favorite – ‘Ania.’

When you first look at ‘Ania,’ it looks so colorful and romantic that it immediately wins you over. But then you hear that it was created as a part of an advertisement produced for McDonald’s, which can be slightly disappointing, though it doesn’t take away from the piece’s beauty.

To fully enjoy and learn more about the local street art scene, one of the best things to do in Warsaw is to take a free walking tour in Praga, though you’ll also find some more murals in the neighborhood of Muranów.

Budapest

By John from CarpeDiemEire

Budapest’s offering as a street art city comes in the form of large murals, perhaps a recognition that it doesn’t have the history of some of the more famous city in that respect.

To visit most of the best murals pay a visit to the Jewish Quarter. You will anyway, it’s where the ruin bars are as well as the Dohany Street Synagogue. You can’t leave Budapest without having seen them, or in the case of the former, falling out of them. The Jewish district is as trendy as it gets in Budapest, so no surprise the street art is at its best there.

Wandering the streets of what was once the Hungarian Ghetto, you’ll find works by artists Dan Ferrer, Okuda San Miguel, the group Neopaint, Breakeone, and Cekas. Since 2008 the Colourful City Organisation have been responsible for bringing excellent artists here to ply their trade.

A particular standout is Alice by Spanish artist Dan Ferrer. In a car park on Kertesz Ut, we find Alice trapped in a small house in a bleak landscape, bruised and frightened. Carrying a message that children are our future and need to be nurtured, it’s brutally effective.

Just one of many murals to be found on a Budapest itinerary.

Lennon Wall in Prague

By Nina of Nina Out and About

One of the best street art cities in Europe is Prague.

The city is home to exceptional culture, having endured decades of communism and now a thriving democracy. You’ll find evidence of ancient kings at the Prague Castle, communist rule in demolished statues, and the flourishing free speech in its newer street art pieces. Within the city, there is a spinning head exhibit that is every shifting, just like human thoughts. But outside the city is a unique piece of art: the Kutna Hora Bone Church. The church was literally constructed from human remains, down to a chandelier with every bone from the human body.

The best spot for street art in Prague is undoubtedly at the Lennon Wall.

The wall began as an illegal graffiti wall during the communist reign. People began to paint on it to express themselves.

It started with small murals and doodles.

But the day that John Lennon died, it all changed.

The next morning, a giant mural dedicated to John Lennon went up on the wall. It featured the singer’s face and the addition of lyrics.

As the communist regime continued on, the wall became a way for the locals to express their frustration with the government and to express their desire for freedom.

While the original John Lennon portrait is long lost – especially since the government would repaint the wall frequently during the communist era – the wall continues to be a sign of hope.

Every time you visit, the wall will be different. Literally from one day to the next, the small signs for peace and pretty images will morph into something new thanks to a new addition.

You’ll easily stand there examining the wall for hours. Many buskers take advantage and play Beatles music in front of the mural. So bring a coffee and a few spare coins to tip the buskers as you soak in this gorgeous street art.

Manchester

By Helen from Helen on her Holidays

Manchester, in north west England, is a fantastic place to visit if you’re interested in street art. The city, in particular the Northern Quarter and Ancoats areas, has a history in recent decades of attracting some of the world’s best art talent to decorate its streets with murals, sculpture and mosaics.

The Northern Quarter part of Manchester used to be an area full of abandoned Victorian mills and warehouses until the 1990s, when it gradually became the most fashionable part of town, full of bars, loft apartments and alternative shops. It’s always been an area with its own character, and even its own font, which appears on street names and on the slabs in the pavement of Tib Street, where you can read the poem Flags by Lemn Sissay.

Manchester took part in the Cities of Hope street art festival in 2016, attracting nine street artists from around the world, including Nomad Clan (Cbloxxx and AYLO). Nomad Clan recently returned to Manchester to replace their Cities of Hope piece with a new work, Make Do Mend, which celebrates the city’s textile heritage.

In contrast to the large pieces which last for years, the Out House in Stevenson Square has a higher turnover of works that often appear spontaneously in response to news events, such as the death of David Bowie, the killing of George Floyd (both pieces by Akse) and the Manchester Arena bombing (by Qubek).

On a lighter note, a Manchester favourite is the giant blue tit on Newton Street, which was created by Faunagraphic in 2011 in a partnership with Converse.

Ljubljana

By Nicole from GoFarGrowClose.com

Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia. Ljubljana Old Town is a large historical district with pedestrian-only walking zones along cobblestone streets. You can find small boutique hotels along these paths that offer elegant rooms and old world charm. In addition, there are beautiful medieval churches scattered throughout and the imposing 12th Century Ljubljana Castle perched over top. If you are looking for the perfect old-world European experience, this is the place for you.

In striking contrast, after a short walk over The Ljubljana River, you find yourself in run down areas filled with squatters and spectacular street art. First, there is Rog Factory, a former bicycle manufacturing plant, where artists squat and produce fabulous paintings and sculptures making political or cultural statements.

A little farther along, you come across Metelkova, an independent social and cultural centre. It was formerly the military headquarters of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, then the Slovenian headquarters of the Yugoslav National Army. After Slovenia became independent, it was supposed to become a government sanctioned alternative art scene.

When that didn’t happen, the squatters moved in and became a vibrant artistic and cultural spot. To learn all about the history of Slovenia, specifically post independence, the evolution of the street art scene, and about the amazing murals and artists, consider taking a walking tour called Ljubljana Alternative Tour offered by Ljubljana Urban Tours. It is one of the best things to do in Ljubljana.

Berlin

By Ali from Berlin Travel Tips

Berlin is one of the best cities in the world for street art. The city is known for art and creativity, and street art has become an important part of the landscape. Some pieces commissioned works while others are illegally done.

Although you can find street art all over the city, Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg are two of the best neighborhoods to explore for impressive art. Of course there’s the East Side Gallery, a long stretch of the Berlin Wall that is now covered in art. This is one of the best free things to do in Berlin, especially if you’re interested in street art. 

Not far from there is the RAW-Gelände. This former train repair station now has restaurants, clubs, beer gardens, a flea market, and lots of street art. Here you’ll find pieces by Felix and Matthias, Marina Zumi, Ostap, Shepard Fairey, and more. The Urban Spree Art Gallery, which focuses entirely on street art, is also located here.

Across the river in Kreuzberg, you can follow the U1/U3 Ubahn tracks and detour a little here and there to see more famous pieces. There are several from Blu, ROA, Os Gemeos, Victor Ash, and more. 

One of the more interesting pieces here is a mural of dead or dying animals, a statement on how nature is dying as a result of over-urbanization around the world. Another famous piece worth checking out here is the Astronaut by Victor Ash. 

In western Kreuzberg, you can also visit the Urban National Museum. This fairly new addition to the Berlin art scene is dedicated to street art and has new artwork painted on the outside on a regular basis. 

Street art is easy to explore on your own. But a street art tour can give you loads of interesting information about the art and help you enjoy it more.

Stockholm

Dhara from It’s Not About the Miles

If you are a fan of public art, you will love Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, which is home to what is considered the longest art gallery in the world. 

Stockholm’s subway art is famous, not only for its color and scale, but also for the underlying themes of diversity, inclusion, and other social causes. Many of the city’s more than 100 subway stations feature stunning art, with entire tunnels covered in color. 

One of the most beautiful stations you can visit is Kungstradgarden, where the ceilings feature colorful art. At Fridhemsplan, you can view cool and quirky robot art. At Hallonbergen, child art with stick figures and childhood themes will captivate you. 

While Stockholm’s subway art is internationally renowned, it also features traditional street art in its various districts. 

Snosatra, Stockholm’s graffiti park, is the largest in Europe and a great place to visit if you are interested in street art but have limited time in the city. Here you can see the works of some of the city’s most well-known street artists such as Mogul and Huge.

If you enjoy the work of Os Gemeos, the Brazilian twins that have created gigantic murals in various cities across the world, you will find one in Stockholm to view! The mural, located in Fiskargatan, depicts persons created in their typical style, with beautiful colors.

Best Street Art Cities in Europe — Kyiv

Contributed by Inessa Rezanova, image by Natalie Rezanova, Through a Travel Lens Blog

Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, is eastern Europe’s heart of street art. First murals appeared in the city fairly recently — after the revolution of 2014, and initially, the locals were not all that thrilled.

But the outrage over what was perceived as vandalism of public property turned into admiration as soon as the first murals — among them, the iconic girl in traditional Ukrainian clothes — turned a few bleak buildings of the capital into colorful impressions of what today’s Ukraine is.

A mix of modern architecture and historic buildings of the 19th century, Kyiv has its fair share of Soviet apartment buildings. These are not exactly what most of the Ukrainians are fond of and much to the pleasure of the locals, it is these houses that became the canvases and main inspiration for the local artists as well as for the artists around the world. 

The capital’s arguably most popular mural — “The Girl in Vyshyvanka” — was created by the Australian artist, Guido van Helten. A dedication to Ukrainian women, this 53-meter long depiction of a young girl in traditional Ukrainian clothes almost made it to the Guinness World Records as the biggest European mural. Drawn on a wall of a building at Lesya Ukraininka street, it is now one of the area’s highlights.

As the artists continue to flock to Kyiv to paint the walls of the capital’s buildings, there are now plenty of beautiful murals in the historic center — the old town of Podil, as well as in the busy business area in Pechersk. Great street art can be spotted not only downtown but also in remote areas of the city. Fans of murals should also include areas like Obolon and Left Bank to the list of places to visit in Kyiv to enjoy the vibrant street art.

Rotterdam

By Zoe from Together in Transit

One cool place to find street art in Europe is the city of Rotterdam in the Netherlands. Unlike the rest of the Netherlands, Rotterdam is a unique city to visit due to its modern architecture. However, it still has many quirky locations with hidden gems and industrial street art locations. 

You may think there is one specific location for a city, but Rotterdam actually has many spots that you can explore and view the street art across the city. Some popular locations include street art at the Witte de Wit street, the Centraal station area and near an old factory called Maassilo in Rotterdam South. 

The best way to enjoy all these locations as well as find the hidden gems is to use the Rewriters010 street art or take a tour with them, where they provide interesting walks about each piece of art work during a walk. Many of the artists are Dutch, but there are also some international artists that have special pieces in the city too. Some artists to name are: Bier en Brood, Dan Botlek, I Am Eelco, TelmoMiel and Mark Goss.

For the last few years, the PowWow street art festival has also held an event here. During the weekend there are live graffiti artists completing their new artwork in the city as well as on cars and vans. There are tours available to walk along many of the street art routes to learn more as well as activities at the event location.

My favourite personal photo is a piece by I Am Eelco in gorgeous purples, yellows and greens. His style has always been one of my favourites from Rotterdam due to the overlapping style and animals pictured in the artwork.

Reykjavik

By Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

Reykjavík, Iceland has a wealth of colourful and thought-provoking street art. The majority of its murals are located in Reykjavík’s downtown (or “Old Town”), making a self-guided walking tour of many of the murals very easy to do in an afternoon.

Some of the murals were commissioned by local businesses, while others are the result of a bigger project called Wall Poetry. This project was a collaborative effort between Urban Nation, a contemporary art collective based in Berlin, and Iceland Airwaves, Iceland’s largest music festival. Ten musicians performing at the 2015 Iceland Airwaves festival provided song titles, lyrics, quotes, stories, or poetry that influenced their music to ten artists working on the murals. The initiative was a way of connecting music and art – an initiative that was so well-received, that the project was implemented again the next year.

For example, this particular piece, painted by Canadian tattoo artist and illustrator Heather McLean, is inspired by a song called “A Hundred Ropes” by Minor Victories. Notice how the locks of the woman’s hair become the waves on a stormy sea.

One of the challenges for street art in Reykjavík is the rapid speed at which the city is growing. Everywhere you look there are construction cranes, as old buildings are demolished to make way for new shops, hotels and businesses. Some of the street art painted on the sides of buildings are disappearing as empty lots are filled in. And while the very nature of street art is that it is not meant to be permanent, it’s a shame to see some of the art disappear. Luckily, the spirit of street art in Reykjavík is going strong, with no signs of slowing down even as the city expands.

Plovdiv

By Anda from Travel for a While

The first thing you find out about Plovdiv is that it is the oldest inhabited city in Europe. Being such an ancient place, you wouldn’t really imagine the real young vibe it has.

There are plenty of reasons to visit Plovdiv. Among them, well-preserved Roman ruins and traditional painted houses in the Old Town. Besides them, you will also find coffee shops, craft beer places, and great food. Another reason to visit is the street art in Plovdiv. Street art is virtually everywhere in Plovdiv. From underway passages to garbage bins and school walls, you will find graffiti and murals in many places.

The best places to find some great street art pieces are the trendy Kapana neighborhood and the area behind the drama theater. The street behind the theater was transformed in just one week, during the Street Art Fest of 2013. Climb the stairs behind Milo the Crazy’s statue to find this hidden gem of Plovdiv.

Kapana is a much larger area where artists are frequently commissioned to bring new life to the old walls. Start exploring with the heart of Kapana and admire the three large murals. Then, walk on the small streets to find smaller pieces in the most unexpected places.

One of my favorite pieces in Plovdiv is ‘МИР’ (Peace) by Nasimo. A Bulgarian artist, by his real name Stanislav Trifonov, Nasimo has been painting walls since 1995. He is one of the most active and popular Bulgarian artists. 

Peace is a mural composition, the biggest in Bulgaria. Nasimo started working on it in 2015 and has added pieces a few times since. He aims to inspire love and peace, the food our souls need.

Best street art cities in Europe – Łódź

By Ania from The Travelling Twins

I’m going to tell you how great street art in Łódź has become over the years. What started as an act by Polish artists against communism became something so much more than that. It was an act of defiance against all odds and now it’s an integral part of what makes Łódź so special.

Today, nearly forty years after the first street art appeared in Łódź, street art here not only symbolizes freedom of speech but has become one of the main attractions for visitors to the city. The local authorities support street artists and Łódź is proud of its legendary murals.

Murals in Łódź which has been started by local artists now attracted big names like Aryz and Os Gemeos brothers (ul. Roosevelt 5), Aryz or Eduardo Kobra with a mural of famous Polish Pianist Arthur Rubinstein, who was born in Łódź.

Besides painted murals, you can find in Lodz as well cool installations on the wall where using negative space effect and half a tonne of nails artist Łukasz Berger created the word “CISZA” (Silence)

Unfortunately, some of the cool ones like big surrealistic graffiti done by French artist Remed was reprinted with boring medical advertisements. But still, many empty building faces are waiting for new murals.

When you plan to visit Łódź its one of the great things to do is to discover the town by searching for interesting murals.

Bucharest

By Vanessa from Traveling Ness

Romania might not be the first country you think of for street art in Europe but the capital of Bucharest is bursting with art murals and cool graffiti around every corner! Bucharest has a European charm without the crowds often referred to as “Little Paris”.

Since the end of communism, Romanians used street art and graffiti as a way to express themselves in the new wake of independence. By exploring the various street art, you are walking through a visual story tied with bits of Bucharest’s history.

Some of Bucharest’s street art is very hidden and in other areas, you can’t help but notice it. The main areas to spot the best street art in Bucharest is around Old Town, in the Piata Romana neighborhood off of Strada Pictor Arthur Verona and the North Railroad Station area.

Top artists that have painted the walls of Bucharest with some really cool street art are Pisica Patrata (Alexandru Ciubotariu), Vhils, Sweet Damage Crew, Obie Platon, and Benr.

My favorite murals in Bucharest are done by Sweet Damage Crew that consists of a group of artists. The first mural is hidden in a courtyard of an outdoor movie screen, known as Creart. 

It is of a man sitting on a TV looking up at the moon with rich shades of blue and purple that is a few stories tall! As it is on private property, ask if you can go in or attend one of the movie viewings held there.

The other top mural by Sweet Damage Crew is Make a Point, depicting a woman drawing on a piece of glass she is holding. You can find Point on Strada General Eremia Grigorescu 10. No matter what area of Bucharest you explore, you are bound to find plenty of epic urban art during your stay!

Kaunas, Lithuania

By Tal from Bright Nomad Travel Blog

Kaunas, Lithuania, is a lesser known destination with a great street art scene waiting to be discovered.

One of the most famous pieces of street art in the city is called The Wise Old Man. It’s a huge mural in a very central location, close to Kaunas Castle, on the wall of an old shoe factory.

It’s a painting of a well known local artist called Jurgis Maciunas, a historic figure who was the father of the Fluxus art movement. The city embraced this mural and it has become one of its symbols.

Another great spot for street art is called The Yard Gallery. Located inside a residential yard and initiated by one of the residents, this gallery has a wonderful collection of murals and installations by local street artists. It’s a place that’s fun to explore.

Not far from the yard, you’ll find another famous piece of art, an eye-catching mural of a massive pink elephant. 

You can see many more pieces of street art, including some very impressive murals, scattered around the city. Many of them are legal and commissioned by the city, which appreciated both the art and the artists. To discover them easily, you can pick up a beautiful illustrated street art map from the tourist information centre in the city hall.

Barcelona

By Ignacio from Tango and Rakija

The city which gave birth to art characters such as Miro, Dali, Gaudi and Picasso is obviously a good city for hunting street art.

You will quickly realize that even without a map and just strolling around the city you will step into a world of graffiti and many forms of street-art.

Luckily, this time you won’t have to think much but just enjoy it. These are, according to us, the MUST SEE places for a deep-dive in street-art culture of Barcelona.

You should start visiting one of the oldest pieces of art in the walls of the city – Keith Haring’s mural. It was painted in 1989 on a very old building in the Raval neighbourhood which nowadays is the MACBA museum. Painted in red, the colour of blood, this mural contains all Haring’s  classic  iconography: children, life, sex, death and his fight against AIDS.

Since you are already in the Raval area you can visit one of our favorite ones in the city. A mysterious couple of artists which IG is @me_lata. Just walk around El Raval and you will find their art mostly everywhere.They do art with empty cans and write quotes and thoughts on them. 

Not far from the Raval, in the area of Poble Sec you can go to The Three Chimneys urban park and sit to enjoy art creation in real time. This is one of the favourite playgrounds of Barcelona’s street artists (both professional and amateur) owing to the fact that it is one of the city’s only purpose-built graffiti parks.The walls on the park are part of the initiative called Murs Lliures in catalan (‘free walls’), urban areas distributed around the city that the artists can reserve for a specific date and do their magic. The good thing is that the art on the walls changes mostly every week. 

If you love Barcelona, you love Miro, if you love Miro you will love this huge graffiti. In the corner of C/Sant Pau and C/ de la Riereta you can see perhaps one of Barcelona’s most iconic pieces of street art, the large mural on the corner is a tribute to the famous Catalan artist Joan Miró. 

To wrap-up your visit to this area of Barcelona we suggest you to go to the street Carrer Selva de Mar between Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes and Av. Diagonal. Here you will see many graffitis from different artists in all possible colors and shapes. It’s a 20 min walk or less full of vibrant street-art.  

For our next proposal you need to think big because this is a huge mural. Just on the front wall of an old building called  La Carbonería which stands the title of the oldest building in the area of Eixample, it’s so old that it is protected by the council. Meaning it can’t be destroyed or altered in any significant way. Formerly a coal company that was abandoned and after some years it was squatted for many others before its residents were finally evicted in 2014. To find this fantastic and historical piece of street-art you need to go to the intersection of Urgell and Floridablanca. 

In order to stay in tune with murals you cannot miss a visit to the huge collage called 

The Shark. It’s a three-metre-long shark made of paintings of €100 notes at the top of El Carmel. In 2008, Blu, artist from Bologna, did. ‘El Tiburón’ as a reminder of Spain’s political corruption. The controversy behind this art expression was enormous, nevertheless, The Shark is standing there after many years.

Our last suggestion of the day is that you take a walk till Turó del Carmel, a park full of walls with graffiti from many different artists. You have a graffiti wall that runs the length of Camí de Can Móra to enjoy. It’s around 500m long.

And, the best part about street art in Barcelona is that, this is not all. If you just walk around the streets of the city, you will find true pieces of art in almost every corner.

Athens

Chrysoula from Athens and Beyond

Athens is a city known for its rich history with the many archaeological sites scattered in every corner, the tasty cuisine, and the vibrant nightlife. In the last years, the city has seen an increase in the number of murals from creative street art artists, many of which are students in the Athens School of Fine Art.

There are many neighborhoods one can admire street art, but the most popular ones include Monastiraki, Exarchia, Psiri, and Keramikos. All these areas are located in the city center and are easily accessible to tourists on foot.

An alternative way to admire the most famous murals is to take a guided tour offered by various companies.

One of the most famous Greek street art artists with many works around Athens and various cities around the world is INO with his large-scale black and white murals. Some of his well-known works include “Access control”, “Clock Work”, and “Wake Up”. 

One of my favorite murals in Athens is the one of Loukanikos, a stray dog that got famous during the protest marches against anti-austerity measures in downtown Athens. After his death, the street art artists Martinez, N. Gramms, and Smart created a big mural in his honor in the Psiri neighborhood. The mural depicts the dog in a scene of riots and flames and there is also an epigraph that says: “We were struck by tear-gas together” and also “All Dogs go to Heaven”.

While exploring Athens, keep your eyes open for some amazing street art.

Rome

By Claudia Tavani from Strictly Rome

Rome is a fantastic city for street art, and you can easily admire many interesting pieces in several areas of the city. Street art in Rome helped convert neighborhoods that were once burdened by petty crime into much better places with live (and free) art galleries that anybody can visit.

There are several neighborhoods in Rome where visitors can admire street art. One of them is Quadraro, a bit outside of the center of Rome but easy to reach by metro. Others are Testaccio and neighboring Ostiense, a 30 minutes walk from the Colosseum; or Pigneto and San Basilio.

Rome’s latest street art project, however, is in the area of Tor Marancia, further south of the Colosseum (about one hour walk). It was only in 2015 that the walls of Viale Tor Marancia were completely turned into an art gallery, with 20 international artists working for 70 days in a row to change the face of many buildings within the “Big City Life” project. More than 20 murals were painted.

The most notable mural in Tor Marancia is “The Weight of History” by Argentine-Italian artist Jaz. It portrays an Argentine wrestler holding an Italian wrestler on his shoulder and it represents the tight connection between Italy and Argentina.
The best way to enjoy street art in Rome is via a guided walking tour. Several companies run good ones around the city.

Glasgow, Scotland

By Rachel from Average Lives

Undeniably, Glasgow is one of the best street art cities in Europe.  The city is a former fishing village and will welcome you with green spaces, museums, architectural wonders and a fantastic food scene.  

If that was not enough, over the past 14 years, Glasgow’s once tired and empty buildings have transformed thanks to some gifted street artists. There is now a famous ‘Mural Trail’, which should be on a Glasgow itinerary. The trail was named one of the most exciting things to do in the world on Time Out’s DO List for 2020 and is the perfect way to brighten up any day. 

The Mural Trail showcases the diverse art from primarily local artists and can be reached on foot from the city centre. The unique works help to bring colour to the city. They are often described as murals for everyone, from radical, to conservative, to unusual or narrative-based. 

You can see the murals on a self-guided tour with the help of the Mural Trail website, or you can go on a tour with a local artist to learn more about each one and its significance. The trail is 5-miles in total and would take around 3-hours to complete, but many people complete sections at a time over a couple of days. 

One of the most famous and exciting murals is named Saint Mungo and was created by the artist Smug (Sam Bates), who is originally Australian but lives in Glasgow. It is a photo-realistic mural finished in 2016 and is on the gable end of High Street. It was crafted freehand and depicted the patron Saint of Glasgow with a small robin – an indication of the story of the Bird That Never Flew.

Naples

By Danila from Travelling Dani.

Naples is a lovely city in Southern Italy, which lies next to the sea.

While most of the world identifies Napoli with the delicious Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven, us locals know that our city hides a pretty colorful treasure.

Street art is well hidden and it always represents our feelings or the important people who have had a great impact on the whole region. Among the best things to do in Naples (Italy), hunting for murals is one of the top 3. You can do it for free: it’s cheap, fun and it will let you discover the hidden side of Naples.

The most popular mural in Naples is dedicated to the one football player that has forever changed our city: Diego Armando Maradona.

The local stadium has been named after the Argentinian player when he died by the end of 2020.

The Maradona murale dates back to 1990, when the Naples Soccer Team won the Italian “Scudetto” thanks to Diego. It was restored in 2016.

You can visit it for free: find it at Piazzetta Diego Armando Maradona, in Naples.

The popular Maradona murale was painted by a local artist who was just 23 at the time, Mario Filardi. He wasn’t a street artist, but he so felt inspired by the player who had managed to bring glory to Naples, that he decided to try his hand at painting.

This has soon become the most popular street art in Italy.

Another very famous and huge mural was created by the artist Jorit Agoch, who is pretty active in Naples.

It represents San Gennaro, the patron saint that every Neapolitan loves. He is believed to have stopped the lava when Mount Vesuvius erupted, thus “saving” Naples from destruction.

The “Gennaro” mural covers the entire side of an historical building in Piazza Crocelle ai Mannesi, in Forcella, next to the Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore.

Lyon

By Leyla from Offbeat France

While French cities have their share of informal street art, Lyon’s monumental murals are famous not only throughout the country but around the world.

While each is unique and meaningful, perhaps the one that best encapsulates the mural story and the history of Lyon is the “Mur des Canuts”, or the Wall of Silk Workers. This massive fresco sits above Lyon on Croix-Rousse Hill, which was once home to the many weavers who turned Lyon into Europe’s capital of silk for five centuries from the Renaissance onwards.

This particular mural depicts everyday life in Lyon in a naïve art style that might make you look twice to see if this is actually a mural – or real life. Many others follow the same pattern, highlighting a moment in history, or the faces of famous Lyonnais. 

Other murals have little to do with reality, picturing scenes from entertainment or even science fiction.

It matters little: all were born from a desire to bring art to poorer neighborhoods of the city and were the brainchild of a small group of rebellious art students who created a cooperative, CitéCréation, in the 1980s after being inspired by murals during a school trip to Mexico. The Mur des Canuts was their first creation and involved the local community in its design.

Today, the cooperative is so well known it receives commercial offers to undertake murals around the world, which its artists do, but they never forget their origins and continue to populate Lyon with delightful scenes. They have even opened a school for muralists-in-waiting, paving the way for the future generation.

Bristol

By Claire from Go South West England

Whether you’re spending a weekend in Bristol or are here for a longer time, one of the best things to do is see its beautiful street art!

Bristol is the home of Banksy who is possibly the world’s most famous street artist – so it’s no surprise that it’s one of the best places in Europe for street art!

Banksy is an anonymous street artist – he leaves his work with his signature style on walls, but nobody actually knows who he is! You’ll find his art all over Bristol. Often, it’ll have a meaningful message, as he addresses topics like war and inequality. 

Other times, he’ll mention current issues in his art but have a comic twist, such as his famous “mild, mild west” artwork in Stokes Croft which features a teddy bear throwing a cocktail at riot police and alludes to the illegal parties that were held in the city in the 1990s. 

Bristol street art certainly isn’t just Banksy though. The entire city is covered in a mishmash of murals and poignant art pieces – it’s like walking around an outdoor art gallery. While Banksy’s work is usually black and white, many other pieces are full of colour and vibrance. 

Stokes Croft is one of the best areas to walk around for street art. From expansive colourful murals to smaller pieces reminding you that “hate is foolish” and to “think local, boycott Tesco”, there’s loads to look at here!

Another awesome spot is North Street in Southville. This is the location for the street art festival Upfest, and nearly all of the road’s buildings have beautiful murals! Most poignant is perhaps outside Aldi, where Greta Thunberg’s face, half-covered in water from rising sea levels, looks down on shoppers – reminding you to make sustainable choices with your shopping.

Belfast

By Faith from XYU and Beyond

Northern Ireland and particularly artists in Belfast have a long history of representing and reflecting their troubled history in street art. 

Street art and political activism have always gone hand in hand but in 1998 when the Peace Accord was signed a new kind of street art began appearing on the walls of Belfast.  

You can still find many of the murals that depict “The Troubles” in neighbourhoods separated into Catholic and Protestant areas. From murals of Bobby Sands who died while on hunger strike, to a mural of the Women’s Quilt with words relating to women and the roles they play in communities. 

These days artists have taken to the streets of Belfast to bring new life into areas of the city that were run down and abandoned and have now been transformed turning Belfast into a street art mecca like London, New York and Berlin. 

The new street artists include Joe Caslin whose piece of two women kissing drew attention to the LGBTQIA community with the hashtag #lovewins.

In stark contrast to the political murals some of the best street art is found in the Cathedral District. Exhibiting work by world-renowned artists this area is stunningly colourful with work by Kev Largey (aka KVLR), Pang, Christina Angelina’s (aka StarFighteraA) and James Earley.

My favourite piece though is the one called Lobster Pot by the Australian street artist Sam Bates, also known as Smug. Smug is recognized around the world as one of the masters of Photorealism.

You can take a walking tour of Belfast’s street art that was created and led by local artists who have driven the street art scene in Belfast. This two hour walking tour will take you through the ever changing street art scene in the City.

Lisbon

By Berkeley Square Barbarian

Lisbon is a fun weekend destination. You can easily spend a few days exploring the different neighbourhoods sprawling across the hills and valleys. Street art here started with political murals after the revolution of 25 April 1974.

Few cities offer more exciting street art than Lisbon. This is even more impressive considering its relatively small size compared with many of its competitors. The city actively encourages and supports street art (within boundaries). You will find graffiti and murals everywhere around town.

Alfama, the cobble-stoned ancient neighbourhood between the river and the castle, with its steep, crooked alleyways, sports many of the best-known works of street art.

Glória Funicular leading up to Bairro Alto features the fabulous Street Art Gallery. Every once in a while a jury established by the City Council invites dozens of street artists to paint the hundreds of metres of wall for a limited period of time. Graça, Chiado, and Belém have no lack of amazing murals.But no place is more exciting than Mouraria. Among others, a multi-level car park was decorated by various street artists.
Famous local artists include Nuno Saraiva, Vhils, Odeith, Tamara Alves, and Bordalo II. That said, artists from all over the world have visited Lisbon and left some of their works on the walls. Shepard Fairey, Os Gemeos, Utopia63, Blu, SAM3, Andrea Tarli, and Kobra are a few of the more prominent names.

My favourite mural has to be the one on the Escadinhas de São Cristóvão in Mouraria, which was created by a number of different artists. It celebrates the musical tradition of Fado. True, it is not particularly aesthetic. However, you can see that it was a work of love and it gets enthusiastic reactions by almost everyone who passes by it.

London

By Rose at Where Goes Rose?

London is a world-class city whatever you’re into. The street art is no exception and arty travellers to London will be spoilt for choice by the number of alternative neighbourhoods covered in colourful murals.

To find the best street art in London, you’ll want to escape the city centre which is better known for mainstream tourist attractions and shopping districts. Two of the best street art districts in London are Camden and Shoreditch.

In Shoreditch, make a beeline for the Brick Lane street art. Wentworth Street, Fashion Street and Heneage street are known for their colourful murals by artists including ARTiSTA, Benslow and SHOK-1.

Don’t miss the secret unnamed alleyway beside Saffron Restaurant. Here you’ll find a host of socially-conscious art with messages such as ‘more love, less theft’.

Another mural not to miss in Shoreditch is the enormous crane (bird) on Hanbury Street. This is one of the largest and most detailed pieces of street art in the area.

Over in Camden (North London), you can find street art dotted along Kentish Town Road, Bayham Street, Buck Street and Castlehaven Road to name but a few. 

Hawley Mews is an enclave off Hawley Street, completely covered in vibrant street art. Artists regularly change the art here so you never know what you might find.

There are numerous murals dedicated to the late Amy Winehous who called Camden home. In the Stables Market, you’ll also find an arty, lifelike statue dedicated to her.

Birmingham

By Richard from RJ on Tour

Digbeth in Birmingham is also known as the creative quarter and is a lovely place to hang out. Birmingham is the second largest city in the UK and there are lots of things going on, including the 2022 Commonwealth Games. They adorned the Digbeth area with lots of nice street art throughout, including any spare walls and in most of the bars. The area is a great place for nightlife, dining out or just for a walk to admire the art on the buildings.

The best area of Digbeth to see is the streets near the Custard Factory, specifically Floodgate Street and Gibb Street. To see the more up-and-coming artists, take a stroll along the canal. There are some fantastic examples on boards and walls as you stroll along.

Two of the most prominent artists in the city are Gent 48, who does some very intriguing work. The other that pops us all over the place is Annatomix, whose art usually includes theor distinctive fox. My favourite Annatomix piece is along the canal path, the art really enhances the dark drab warehouses. There are many other artists in the area, and the standard is pretty high.

Bars like Zumhof Biergarten and Nortons have some outstanding pieces in their beer gardens. They are both great places for a night out or an afternoon drink. Although Digbeth is by far the best area for street art, the nearby China Town has some great political pieces too.

Which of these street art in Europe cities is next on your agenda? Save a pin for future reference.

Hungary shares many items from its cuisine with the surrounding countries. Borders have moved and been renegotiated but one thing moves even easier and that’s the people. With them they took their recipes and so if you land in Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, or Germany you are very well likely to find similar items on menus. But there are some dishes that are native Hungarian and I’m going to introduce you to these as well as suggest where to find them in the country’s capital.

Traditional Hungarian food is traditionally heavy on meat, but there are more and more restaurants catering for allergies, vegetarians and vegans. I’m going to focus mostly on the traditional where pork and chicken would be the most common meats served.

What to Eat in Budapest and Hungary

Goulash/ Gulyas

It’s the first dish that everyone thinks of when Hungarian cuisine is mentioned. It is a broad term and can be eaten as a soup like starter or as a stew. When considering what to eat in Budapest, this is the essential dish.

Goulash Soup

Goulash soup is a broth of beef, potato, paprika and tomato. It’s perhaps best suited to the colder winter months, but it is undoubtedly delicious. This staple of traditional Hungarian food is usually served with a side of some bread. The soup has a strong deep red colour. It may also be known as Gulyasleves on menus.

When in Budapest I can strongly recommend Pest-Buda Bistro for Goulash. They serve an awesome soup and by all accounts a great stew as well. The restaurant is located in the castle district of Buda, a few minutes walk from the Fisherman’s Bastion on Fortuna Utca. It is one of Hungary’s oldest restaurants being in continuous operation since around 1800. A Goulash Soup costs 1960 HUF, and bear in mind that €1=320 HUF for the remainder of this blog.

Gulyasporkolt

Goulash is a stew of meat (usually beef) and vegetables served with paprika, tomato, onion and other spices. It found its origin amongst cattle herdsmen in the ninth century, and now is popular worldwide. It also takes its name from this as a Gulyas is a cattle herdsman. I came across some of these on my 2018 trip to the wild west of Hungary, in the Hungarian Puszta.

It’s a dish you are going to have to try on your trip, as not to do so would be like leaving Italy without pasta passing your lips. It’s available in most restaurants serving traditional cuisine, so is widespread throughout Buda and Pest. If beef isn’t your thing try csirkeporkolt, which is commonly known as chicken paprikash. Porkolt is usually cooked in a large pot over an open flame, and if you get out of the city, or to a market, this process is a common sight. The dish usually comes with a side of nokedli which a type of Hungarian noodle. There are many modern restaurants serving variations on the dish, but you can’t go wrong with Pest-Buda Bistro.

If you are feeling super brave scroll down to the end for my suggestions on a porkolt for those who really would like to sample everything Hungary has to offer.

Sour cherry soup

Hideg Meggyleves is perhaps a better option for those sticky summer months in the city. Served cold this soup is a mix of sour cherries, spices, sugar, and a dollop of sour cream on top. I can attest to the quality of this soup, it’s absolutely delicious, and cherries wouldn’t really be my thing. It’s very much a seasonable product so will be found on menus during the summer months. I sampled this one in the town of Hortobagy on the Great Hungarian Plain. However if in Budapest, Kispiac Bisztro on Hold Street comes highly recommended. Cherries mature in June so the subsequent months will bring the best flavours.

Lecso

Lecso is not something I’ve had a the pleasure of eating out when in Hungary, but I have eaten many times in my wife’s home. It’s one of those things I simply have to have when there. Basically it’s a thick vegetable ragout made with yellow pointed peppers, onions, tomatoes, paprika with sautéed bacon. It’s a treat for the taste buds.

Lecso can be found in Budapest at the imaginatively named Lecso restaurant on Szent Istvan Krt near Margarit Bridge. This cafe doubles as a restaurant for the evening and provides great value for money. It is also the perfect place to find stuffed cabbage.

Toltott Kaposzta

Toltott kaposzta (stuffed cabbage leaves) is a dish commonly found in Central Europe, the Middle East and Asia. It is a cabbage roll, where the ingredients of minced pork, rice, onion, paprika, and garlic are wrapped in cabbage. Hungarians generally use sour or sweet cabbage. It is served with sour cream, which plays a starring role in many Hungarian dishes.  It is said that the dish will bring you health and wealth two things I’m sure we are all looking for. Again cabbage wouldn’t be my bag in Ireland, but this is a dish I’ve enjoyed more than I thought I would.

Rantott Hus

This is another dish that is synonymous with the surrounding area and most commonly known as Schnitzel worldwide. Schnitzel is usually pork or veal, which is beaten with a meat tenderising hammer, coated in flour, eggs and breadcrumbs and deep-fried. Rantott hus however is often served using chicken. As I’m sure you all know it’s delicious and one of my faves. There are variations available. Rantott Sajt is with cheese.

I was told I had to try Buja Diszno(k) in the Hold Street Market. For 2300huf you get an enormous Rantott Hus. It was twice the size of my hand and was a real man vs food situation. I’m happy to say I won, just don’t expect to eat dinner if this is your lunch. Perfect for those on a budget. Its served with creamy potato salad which is the ideal light accompaniment. If this is too big they do serve Rantott Ful, which is pig ear.

Many restaurants will serve stuffed Rantott Hus, usually with cheese. This is something worth trying should you find on a menu. I’ve only enjoyed this on my trips in Eastern Hungary but its widespread.

Ciganypecsenye

Gypsy Roast as this dish translates to is another heavy on the meat dish. Finding its origin in Hungary’s gypsy minority, this dish has now found popularity in homes and restaurants.

It is a blend of pork blade steaks and smoked bacon, roasted in a marinade of garlic, mustard, and paprika. The bacon comes out thick with grooves in it, and its very crunchy. Gypsy Roast is another large challenging dish. It is rare in Hungary that thought is given to saving space for dessert. Serving is usually with potatoes or wedges. As you may have guessed by now, I’m a big fan of how pork is served in Hungary, and this isn’t an exception. Delicious.

Paprika Restaurant in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter comes highly regarded for Gypsy Roast. I have had this dish several times across the country and it has always been spot on. Its an essential when considering what to eat in Budapest.

Eat Budapest Street Food

Hungary has a thriving street food scene that is well frequented by locals. Always a good sign. The offerings at these stalls varies and ranges from good gyros, to local sausages, to more indigenous fare. Naturally i will recommend the more local. Some of the aforementioned things are available also such as Rantott Hus.

Langos – The best Traditional Hungarian Food

Langos is one of my absolute favourites. It’s as street food as it gets, so don’t expect to find it in restaurants. Trust me I’ve tried. Langos is a deep fried dough which is then served with a choice of toppings. I find it best with sour cream (which you will find in many Hungarian recipes) and cheese. To help you out at the stall, it’s called Langos Saitos Tejfolos. Langos is a perfect blend of dough and crunch. It’s a little hard to even describe so it’s best tried. It certainly won’t break the bank and it’s more than enough to cover one of your daily meals. The only challenge is eating it, you can expect some loss of toppings. But that’s all part of the experience.

Being street food you could walk the streets looking for a market serving langos, or you could just take my advice. If you are in the region of St Stephens Basilica or the Parliament building in Pest, Arany Janos Ut is nearby. The metro station here (metro stations are always a good place to find street food in Budapest) houses Retro Langos Büfe. It may not look a million dollars from the outside, but they serve a mean langos, and you will feel it on the inside. Build up a good appetite with some local culture, and come here to make it history.

Hungarian desserts and where to find them

Chimney Cake

Chimney Cake is a sweet yeast dough that are baked and covered in cinammon sugar. The dough is hand rolled and then the cones are available with a variety of toppings. This one is traditional Hungarian. I have only tried it in the east again but it is available in a number of places throughout Budapest, notably Chimney Cone on Vigado Ut (see photo below) and Street Cakes on Andrassy Ut. The latter looks the better option with real variety in their offerings. I found them to be quite expensive costing around 2000huf in the city, but they are a cake worth trying.

Dobos Torta

Dobos Torte is a Hungarian layered sponge cake consisting of seven layers (yes seven), filled with chocolate buttercream and topped with caramel. Sometimes it comes coated with nuts if that isn’t enough. Dobos torte is available around the city, but it can be enjoyed at the very opulent New York Palace Cafe. The perfect surroundings for a luxury cake.

Budapest’s finest cafe is also billed as the most beautiful in the world. Built for the upper classes by the New York Life Insurance Company in 1884, the New York Palace cafe’s interior by Koraly Senyei, Gusztav Mannheimer, and Ferenc Eisenhut features stuccoes, frescoed ceilings, chandeliers, sweeping balconies, marble columns and Venetian lamps. The decor wouldn’t look lost in the halls of Versailles. But this is no museum, its a cafe, and an experience that shouldn’t be missed when in Budapest. That’s not to say they don’t charge for the privilege (they really do), and its popularity means that there can be significant queues to get a table.

The New York Cafe menu (when you get to see one) is what one expects from a cafe. Brunch items feature extensively such as French Toast, pancakes, sausage or foie gras, and some Hungarian staples as goulash. However most come for a coffee and cake (including your writer). If you want to be really indulgent there’s the 24 kt gold cappuccino. We left €56 behind for two coffees, two cakes, a milkshake and a water, but there was no questions on the taste front. This huge chocolate cake fan left more than impressed. Look at that art!

Gelato

Ok so Hungary didn’t invent gelato. Not am I even claiming they did. They are however doing their best to reinvent it. If you’ve been to Budapest in summer, you’ll know the Hungarian capital is sticky hot, and without a sea or ocean for parsecs, that ice cream is essential. There are some big players looking to bring a different slant to ice cream in Budapest. First there’s Levendula on Rakoczi ut, which, translating as lavender leaves you with no surprise as to what they do. Floral flavours are their speciality. Then there’s Gelarto Rosa, on Szent Istvan ter, who go one further and offer floral presentation. True to their name also, their artful gelato is served in the shape of a rose. The long lines attest to its popularity. Gelato reinvented for sure.

Authentic Budapest Dining Experiences

Ruin Bars

Ruin bars are a unique Budapest phenomenon. They are exactly as advertised, bars opened inside the ruins of old buildings. Most of these are found in the Jewish Quarter on the city, and while they are better known for their late night partying, they do serve traditional food during the day. You can’t go to Budapest without experiencing ruin bars, and the original (and best) is Szimpla Kert. Do not expect fine dining though, these places are rough and ready, yet trendy.

Markets

Budapest isn’t big on breakfast, but if your accommodation doesn’t serve it, then there’s no better place to go than the Central Market Hall on Vamhaz krt. It’s the oldest, largest, and prettiest market in the city, though it’s worth noting the market is at its busiest with locals before 0 am. Hungarian breakfast usually consists of a sandwich with cold cuts and cheese, and you find all this on the lower floors where all the fresh produce is sold. You might think about picking up some retes, a version of strudel usually stuffed with jam or cottage cheese. Delicious. On the upper floors, there are eateries with more of the street food mentioned above, so the market is an option come lunchtime too.

Now that we’ve dabbled in some of the aesthetic side of Budapest, it’s inevitable that’s where we must keep going. There’s nowhere more beautiful to sit and eat, or drink a cocktail, than Budapest’s rooftop bars. See my recommendations in the Best Views in Budapest.

Budapest Food Tours

There are a range of Budapest food tours run locally, that specalise in giving you a taste of the city. Get Your Guide provides a secure and reliable site to book these in advance.

What not to eat in Budapest

There are some unusual dishes in Hungary too, with pigs ear, tripe, gizzard stew and trotter stew being quite popular, but then there is those to really give a wide berth to.

Kakashere Pörkölt

I can’t vouch for this dish as I haven’t tried it but I have heard it’s good from the few people I know to have eaten it. I did order it once in Tokaj but the restaurant was out. Secretly I was quite relieved. This translates as rooster testicle stew. No that wasn’t a typo. Yes it doesn’t sound pretty grotesque. But I was willing to give it a go. If you are, Getto Gulyas in the Jewish quarter of Pest is known for not making a balls of the dish.

I’m a regular traveler to Hungary when we can travel, and I’ll keep sampling its cuisine. Maybe one of these days I’ll try Kakashere Porkolt, and I’ll add my opinion to this blog.

Agyvelo

For non-Hungarian speakers this word means little. For those who do, it prompts a certain level of disgust. And with good reason. Agyvelo is pig brain. Traditionally spread on bread. Never mind how it looks, it in fact smells worse. But I’m of the opinion you don’t know till you have tried it. And now I have I can assure you it’s awful.

I hope this blog will help you on what to eat in Hungary, to enjoy the culinary as well as the architectural delights. If you need help with what to do in Budapest then look no further than my Ultimate Guide to Budapest.

Staying in Budapest

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Thank you for reading and hope you’ll enjoy the cuisine as much as I did.

Why spend Easter in Hungary in Holloko?

So what makes Holloko Hungary so special? It boils down to the place, its culture, and people, and in particular the efforts they make to keep their traditions alive in the old village. Is it possible they do only to keep the stream of tourists coming and the local economy booming? Very much so. If so is it even relevant? Not at all. It’s great to see a town seemingly untouched by time. And no better time than at Easter, when timeless Easter practices are observed.

Everyone flocks here to see the “sprinkling”, more on which I will divulge later. But it’s not just this Easter tradition that is kept. The town and it’s houses are maintained in an old fashion, all white washed with either flowers or ornaments hanging from the roofs. The streets are all pedestrianized adding to that pleasant feel. Each street is a pleasure to walk around and explore.

Easter in Hungary is Holloko.

Easter and me

I’ve never really gotten Easter. Perhaps that sounds a little unusual but I don’t think we in Ireland as I grew up ever did. I mean we understood the religious significance of it. We abstained from meat on Good Friday, and were subsequently rewarded with Spring Lamb for Sunday lunch on Easter Sunday. We swapped Easter eggs, which was always wonderful if chocolate was given up for lent.

But even then we were allowed a day off on St Patrick’s Day to indulge our vices. Don’t remember a day when a carnival rolled through the desert during those 40 days of abstinence from the bible. But growing up I always wondered what the bunnies and eggs was all about. No mention of that either in the bible. To me the Easter Bunny was always ridiculous, even as a young child.

As I grew older, I discovered the links to Eostre, the pagan goddess of fertility who originally was celebrated on these days. Rabbits and eggs are linked to her also. So with time I grew more disenchanted with the notions of Easter, especially as religion faded from my life. What was Easter really all about?

Then travelling introduced me to other traditions of Easter. Suddenly I saw how Easter could and probably should be observed. The quest to discover such traditions was in fact one of my motivations on this trip to Hungary. That quest now took me to Holloko, the best place to observe Easter in Hungary.

Our Easter in Holloko Hungary

We had stayed the night before in Hatvan, a pleasing town, even if it took me by surprise to realise that. More on that and one of my Hungarian road trips in my Hatvan blog. We rose early to breakfast in the SOS Motel where we had stayed, and then made the thirty minute drive to the town of Holloko in Nógrád County of North Hungary. If looking to book to stay in Holloko at Easter, you would need to book extremely early, and furthermore options are quite limited. The Castellum Hotel is rated as best in town. Holloko is certainly more of a day trip destination.

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Budapest to Holloko Hungary

Holloko is not the easiest place to reach, and it is in fact best to travel here by car. It’s around an hour twenty minutes driving from the city of Budapest, but if buses are your thing, then it can take well over two hours and some bus changes. Not ideal. Check the bus service times here.

However if you do have your own wheels it’s a pleasant drive, rapeseed fields are quite common in the lower lands, and brilliantly illuminate the landscape of the during the springtime. Holloko is located deep in the natural environment of the Cserhat Mountains and soon the landscape turned rolling, and vistas looked across wooded lands. Holloko translates to raven stone, and when you finally see the carved wooden raven that lies on the towns edge, you know that it’s close.

Now comes the warning. As Holloko is the best place to celebrate and spend Easter in the country, then you can rest assured you aren’t the only one going there. On any given day over the holiday thousands of people descend on the destination. We were directed from here to one of many fields surrounding the town, that today would serve as car parks, and would approach on foot. Being Easter the celebrations also don’t come for free and entry costs 4000 HUF per person, which is around €11 or $12. Check ahead at the Holloko village website for the program.

History of Holloko

Holloko village dates back to the 13th century, and it’s at this time first mention was made of its castle. The castle was built in response to the Mongol invasion. The village was captured by the Ottomans in the 16th century, and it was only at the end of the Ottoman era in 1683, did the present village spring up. The houses we see today were first built then, but their wooden nature meant that many had to rebuilt due to fires. The last major fires took place in the 20th century. The current population of the village is 387 people.

Holloko finds its way onto the heritage list as a living example of a rural village before the 20th century. It now contains 55 buildings which are all maintained as they were prior to the industrial revolution.

Traditional Dress of Hungary

But those streets and that history aren’t what brings Holloko to life. That accolade belongs to the townsfolk. What a glittering bunch they are. All play their part dressing up, from the animal-coat cloak-draped Gulyas (the cow herdsmen from which the popular dish goulash gets its name), to the regular folk of the town. The gents look great, waist coated and booted, but it’s very much the ladies that steal the thunder.

Their colourful and exuberant layered dresses contrast vividly against the black and white of the towns houses. These beautiful dresses actually consist of about seven layers to give them their lifted effect, and are said to cost in the region of around €1000. Suddenly you can see where your admission fee goes. Everyone throughout the whole village dresses up and takes part, making it just that little more special.

Easter Festival at Holloko Hungary

The entry allows you access to all the activities and a full-time table of events spans the day. When we arrived mass was already underway at the St Michael’s Church in the towns heart. The church is tiny so the mass takes place outside. The mass is followed by a procession through the town, which was our first interaction with many of the colorfully clad country folk.

Following the mass at 1130, the crowds descend from all angles of the town and converge outside the church for what most have come to see, the tradition of sprinkling. See my section on that below.

Throughout the day there is much more entertainment, much of which takes place at the bandstand near the entrance to the town. Here dance and singing troupes will introduce the traditional dances such as czardas, as well as songs local to the area.

To experience this in a more personal setting the well near the end of the town is throughout the day the location of more song and dance. It’s also a good place to see the sprinkling in action.

The Sprinkling at Holloko

Besides sounding like a horror movie title and looking not unlike a sadistic ritual, the sprinkling is anything but. It’s a time-honoured Hungarian Easter tradition. Finding its root in pagan times, the process of throwing a bucket of water over a young maiden was to ensure her fertility, the water ensuring she won’t wilt. With time the tradition has changed and cheap perfume is now sprinkled on the heads of maidens of all ages come Easter in Hungary. This is observed throughout every village in the country.

It is expected that the man in return will receive painted eggs, a cake, or a shot of palinka (a local fruit brandy, and strong stuff). Looks like the ladies come out worse come Easter Sunday and Easter Monday. However some still prefer the ancient ways, and it can be taken a little further by hiring the local fire service to show a man’s affections for a certain lady. Not a good time for a cat to get stuck up a tree.

But back to Holloko. Sprinkling is done with buckets and no one is too safe. It’s the highlight of the day and everyone descends on the church and well at the allotted time to see the action. It is important to be at the symbol below to get the best view. There are two of these in the village (at the church and the well), so scope them out when you arrive.

Top Tip- Go to the Well

It’s somewhat quieter at the well side, and we personally got lost in the crowd at the church and didn’t see much. We then moved ahead of the crowd to the well and here we got a perfect front row viewpoint. Personally I didn’t understand much, the guys chanted an Easter poem, the girls screamed and ran, and one unlucky one was caught. She was then held by each arm, by a guy on either side. This was the bit that was semi ritual and I felt I was in the world of the Wicker Man. She was then drenched by a few buckets of water. It’s all done in good spirits though, but beware, as once this is done, any girls around the village are fair game to get sprinkled and the same guys walk the streets looking for maidens.

Easter Entertainment at Holloko

Besides the sprinkling there is plenty of other entertainment around. The bandstand right at the entrance to the town is the spot to see those traditional Hungarian dances and song. The traditional dance is very unique, my favourite certainly being the tap dance performed by the men where not only the feet tap, but the hands are used to tap feet and knees, in a show of skill. We were even treated to a dance off.

The ladies have their own routines and one song was particularly entrancing. Performed at the well area it was one of the highlights of my visit.

There are innumerable activities going on through the day such as egg painting, pottery, learning whip skills with the gulyas, and many others. Egg painting has major significance in Hungary, the eggs being a symbol of eternal life and the red colours the boiled eggs are painted in are symbolic of the blood of Christ. Alas the number of children in the queues forced me to restrain myself from trying it.

Things to do in Holloko

Easter somewhat curtails the ability to take part in the regular activities of the village, owing to the sheer crowds. But that is of course counteracted by all the extra seasonal fare.

Of course walking the village streets itself is a worthwhile sight. The queues to the heritage sites such as the village museum, doll museum, and the post museums were daunting all day, so we missed out. The old schoolhouse was only large enough to hold about eight students, and the classroom recreates one of the 19th century.

Nina, my daughters favourite place in Holloko was the playground attached to the toy store, Paloc Jatszahaz. All the toys were wooden including the hand wound carousel, and the games included ring toss, horseshoe toss, and a whole host of other non mechanical things. It was quite enchanting to see how kids played in bygone times, before multiplayer was invented.

For a more adult form of playing, check out the wine cellar, showcasing local products from the region.

St Martin Catholic Church

St Martin’s Church is the lower towns biggest landmark. And yet it’s tiny. It’s black steeple and roof set well against the white stone walls, but stepping inside makes you realise that there is hardly space for twenty people. I guess this is why they hold the mass outside. There is a rather intriguing crucifix at the churches entrance though. The church was built in 1889.

Holloko Castle

In the hills above Holloko the castle ruins are the perfect excursion from the village. It’s a steep hike up if not a long one, with the steps near the town well taking you up in fifteen minutes. The castle again was the centre of much spectacle, this time more medieval in tone. The archery and the sword fighting was to be expected, but the huge guy making arrowheads the traditional way with fire, thongs, and a big hammer was fascinating. The guy as well wouldn’t have looked out-of-place in a blacksmiths around 500 years ago, or a Game of Thrones set.

The castle itself is semi-intact, and is accessed by stairs to get past the outer walls. The good thing about this is of course the views of the surrounding countryside which get ever better as you climb higher into the castle. The castle can be visited without seeing the village for 900 HUF, but why would you want to do that. If you do visit during Easter expect huge crowds again at the castle, where the stairs have constant queues up and down, and the central tower took twenty minutes to access. The best thing throughout is the views of the wooded countryside and the village below.

Holloko Castle Exhibits

The castle interior does have some worthwhile exhibits such as the weapon room, the chapel and displays on old furniture. One of the biggest queues I found (and joined out of curiosity) turned out to be to one to look down the garderobe. Look out down below! The best room in the castle featured waxwork figures of 13th century inhabitants of the castle, all dressed in attire from the period.

Dining in Holloko

With all that exertion up and down hills and through the village, you are bound to build up a hunger.

Holloko doesn’t have too many restaurants but Miksrath and Muskati Vendeglo are very highly rated. However with thousands of other hungry people storming about the place, you will be doing well to get a seat. But fear not as other options galore come with the Easter festival. Stalls are open throughout selling much fare and especially baked goods. Street food is often my favourite anyway, so I was probably happier. Hot dogs (not too local I know) were great alongside the local flat bread called Langallo, served fresh from a clay oven.

Those with a sweet tooth (yes me) are well served too by the bakery, with Retes, a Hungarian variant on strudel, stuffed with jam or cottage cheese and Csoroge, long deep-fried parcels of dough, guaranteeing you will give up on that diet for the day. Not that I would ever diet on holidays though.

Conclusion on Holloko Hungary for Easter

Holloko is the ideal place to spend Easter in Hungary, with local traditions and food being a big draw. It’s a beautiful village set high in the Hungarian mountains, and an ideal day trip from Budapest.

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Where Else to Visit in Hungary

I have visited Eger twice, the first in 2015 when huge efforts were being made to renovate the city. This visit was tarnished as a result but we returned to see it in its prime, with its front foot firmly planted forward. The city is the location of several magnificent churches, a castle overlooking the town, some Turkish Baths, fine Baroque architecture, and is the centre of a famed wine region. Enough to further its claim as Hungary’s most beautiful city. To see the city a few days are needed and here are my suggestions on what not to miss. But first, the logistics.

Budapest to Eger

Eger is located about 133 km north-east of Budapest, near the Bukk mountains and National Park. That’s about a 2 hour drive along M3 and M25 motorways. Alternatively there is a train running from Budapest-Keleti station that reaches the city in about 1 hour 50 minutes. The trains runs daily on the hour, and the railway station is 1.5 km from the city centre.

Eger is a small city in Northern Hungary with only a population of around 53,000 people, making it the 19th most populace in Hungary. This means it is easy to navigate on foot. There are a fleet of buses run by KMKK Zrt. serving the town, which are useful for connections from the train and bus station and the Valley of the Beautiful Women. Before all the hot blooded males in my readership get too excited though, I suggest you read on.

Where to Stay in Eger

Most of Eger’s visitors are Hungarians, or from the Czech republic or Slovakia. Most of the rest of the world is really missing out. While Eger is more traditionally visited as a day trip, its definitely worth staying a night. Eger’s compact centre mean that wherever you find accommodation, you are always close to amenities. Hotels and apartments are available at very reasonable rates, starting at around the €40 mark and rarely exceeding €100. At the tip of this are luxury offerings such as Hotel Corona Wellness, Hotel Eger and Imola Hotel Platin. At the lower end are a number of panzio’s which are more similar to B&B’s.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links such as this booking.com link, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Or in the case of 2021, get me travelling. Thank you for your support.

History of Eger, Hungary

Eger was formed in the 10th century by Saint Stephen, the patron saint of Hungary. It started as a religious settlement, with a cathedral where Eger Castle now stands. Or doesn’t stand as it turns out. The settlement grew around the cathedral. From the 12th century, viticulture was practiced here, a tradition still carried to this day. In 1241 a Mongol invasion briefly stopped Eger’s growth, by burning the place to the ground.

But Eger rose from the ashes like a Phoenix. The ruling archbishops ordered that a castle replace the cathedral which once stood. Forests were cleared and wine became the focus. However the 16th century would prove tumultuous, as battles raged in the empire and the castle changed hands many times. Eger Castle would write itself in the history books in 1552 (see below) in defence against the Ottoman empire. However in 1596, Eger would fall, and a near century of Ottoman rule would follow. A Habsburg led crusade finally defeated the Ottomans in 1687.

What followed was a time of rebuilding again, and a further occupation by the Habsburgs. An 8 year war of independence in the early 18th century failed, and soon after a plague beset the town. Once again Eger rose from this and many of its current Baroque buildings where built in the subsequent century. In the failed rebellion of 1848, the archbishops who ruled the town were finally overthrown. Eger was slow to react to the industrial revolution, and as a consequence didn’t grow as other Hungarian cities have in the following centuries. Which is in itself a blessing for the visitor, as it retains its charm.

Things to do in Eger, Hungary

Eger Castle

Standing over the town Eger castle is one of those rarities, a castle without any obvious castle. But don’t let that deter you. Built on a rock above the city, it’s a tantalising walk up along the outside till you reach the castles gates. Entrance costs 1400 HUF giving access to all exhibits. At this time 1 Euro is equal to around 357 HUF (Hungarian Forint).

The walls and the towering views from them are probably the main attraction here. The castle still has a rough feel with the rock face exposed in many places giving it more of an air of authenticity. It was in a poor state of repair when it was entrusted to the state. Most of the buildings within are newish constructs, many of them hosting museums.

The Istvan Dodo Museum showcases the history of the castle, and don’t miss the Kazamatak (casemates) a series of cellars that run underground, and also the dungeon that hosts a morbid torture museum. Most of your time however is best spent looking across those formidable walls to the beautiful city that lies beneath. The views from the though ramparts are what will mostly drag you here and it’s exactly where you want to be as the sun sets over the town.

History of Eger Castle

Eger castle was constructed first in the thirteenth century and grew rapidly. It’s greatest historical fame lies in the repelling of a 40000 strong Turkish army in 1552, by a Hungarian army of 400. It’s the tale of the 300 Spartans told the Magyar way. During the siege the defending soldiers led by Dobo Istvan, asked that the cellars beneath the castle be cracked open. The Egri Bikavér wine was savaged and its thick red juices ran down the beards of the soldiers. This led the Turkish soldiers to think it was mixed with bull’s blood to give the soldier’s strength and they were demoralised. Defeat soon followed. More on that wine later. The castle suffered its final loss in 1701, when the Austrians blew it up. As goes the story of pretty much every Hungarian Castle.

Eger’s Churches

This is where Eger really excels. There are in particular three very different churches that simply amazed me to see.

The Minorite Church

The Minorite Church is the focal point of the Dobo Istvan Square. From the exterior its twin bell towers do draw the eye in the square but it’s upon entering that the church really astounds. The original church that stood here was destroyed by floods and the present one was finished in 1771. The Baroque style was flourishing in Europe at the time with the backing of the catholic church, and the interior here is a fantastic display of baroque art.

There are a five sections of vaulting, and each of them are beautiful to inspect. They contain a series of scenes from the life of St Anthony. Also there are three altars each of them as intrinsically decorated as each other, and a couple of hand carved pews that are possibly the churches most beautiful attribute. All the more surprising is that no admission charge is in effect for such an aesthetic church.

That said, the church belonged to the Franciscan Order and they were less than pleased with the extravagance of the church at large. The architect was a renowned Bohemian architect who worked predominantly in Prague. His name was completely omitted from the plague commemorating those who built the church. The interior vaulting art was by Marton Reindl and the church weren’t happy with his work either, citing its poor quality. Clearly they saw something I didn’t. Or perhaps didn’t want to pay simply.

Serbian Church

The St Nicholas Greek Orthodox Serbian Church lies outside the city centre but is worth the detour. I drove out but it is about a 15 minute walk out. It’s position atop a hill and it’s onion dome gives it distinction. The church is no longer used for religious reasons and now serves as an exhibition centre. Built during the 17th century and altered more in the 18th not much remains of the original interior. But there’s one really good reason to visit this church. Its accessed by a wooden gate from a quiet side street, and the dilapidated headstones give no notice of what lies within. We were met by the curator, whose house lies within the grounds. An entry charge of 400 HUF was exchanged and we were led inside.

The interior contains a work known as an iconostasis which separates the nave from the sanctuary. Measuring 10 metres by 12.5 metres, and featuring 60 different panels carved by Nicola Jankovic and painted by Anton Kuchelmeister. It took two years to complete in the 18th century. Made up of gold leaf and braid its a simply stunning piece of art and astoundingly beautiful to look at. The church also contains a very authentic pulpit designed in the same ilk as the iconostasis.

Eger Basilica

Eger Basilica is probably the lesser of the three churches within the city but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth including in a tour. On my more complete second visit to the city I certainly did. This neo-classical church was completed in the mid 19th century, and the only thing affirming its pious function is the cross atop its roof. The impressive building is reached by a flight of steps and its columns dwarf its entrance.

It’s the most expensive of the Eger churches set to enter at 800 HUF, but there is a large interior space to explore. Its greatest asset is its collection of domes which run along the central nave. The best of these were painted by Istvan Takacs and feature scenes from the apocalypse. The high ceilings of the church are bathed in light from the ceiling level windows, and the illuminated paintings are very attractive. The altar and organ are the churches other worthwhile features.

Walk the Streets of Eger

The city itself is a pleasure to stroll through. The small Eger-Patak (a river) calmly weaves past streets and under bridges. The Baroque buildings and architecture are a mismatch of colours, all bright yellows and pinks, and it works to perfection. It reminds me of an Italian town, from the laid back cafes to the gelaterias. The streets are mostly pedestrianized, and we had to park our car outside the centre and walk in, but it all adds to the atmosphere for this perfect little city.

Valley of the Beautiful Woman- Where to try Bulls Blood Red Wine

We stayed in the Tulipan Garden Panzio in Eger which was a little outside the city in a very pretty neighbourhood. But better still it was a short walking distance from the Szepasszony-volg, or the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. This is the centre of Eger’s famous wine trade and the area is full of Pince (wine cellars), big and small, offering their take on the red wine. Eger also produces a number of original whites such as Egri Leanyka, Ererszolati, and Debroi Harslevelu. Of late Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also produced.

Egri Bikaver or Bull’s Blood, is a blend of five different grapes and besides its battle winning qualities, it is also quite delicious. I found it more to my palate than the sweeter wines of Tokaj, Hungary’s more famous wine region. Read my travel guide on the Tokaj Wine Region here.

Eger Wine Tasting

The area is characterised by the pince, many of which are reminiscent of a cave. We took advice from a random by passer and ventured into the open number 17. It was cold, it was dank, the proprietor didn’t speak English… and the wine was fantastic. He poured the glasses from a long glass beaker and a tasting glass cost a mere 100 HUF. That’s about 30 cents. It was a wonderful introduction to the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. We later left the confines of the cellar and ventured into the main square of the area, which is surrounded by food stalls and enough cellars to leave one in a very inebriated state. We again followed advice but this time from a Hungarian friend and settled into the more comfortable Molnar Pinceszet, for some more Bikaver and Muskotaly.

You could easily spend the evening here with a wide selection of dining and drinking options, or like us you could make your way into the city. It’s nearly 4km in so unless you fancy the walk there are shuttles that run into the Basilica. It’s the only time I felt like I fell into a tourist trap in the city, and at 2000 HUF a person it was daylight robbery, but we paid it for the convenience.

The Minaret

The Minaret is a leftover from the Ottoman occupation. It was constructed in the 17th century as part of the mosque which once stood here. It stands 40 metres high and was built from red sandstone. Much of the Ottoman monuments were destroyed after the break from their rule but any attempts to destroy this minaret failed, including that by 400 oxen with ropes. They like the number 400 in Eger. It stands as the most northerly minaret still in existence.

The Minaret is an incredibly thin tower and anyone with claustrophobia would do well to steer clear. I climbed it on my earlier visit which was fortunate as during the summer of 2018 it was undergoing some restorative works. It only cost 300 HUF at the time to enter and both I and Beata paid in to climb it. When we stepped inside she took one look which was followed by a refund. I wasn’t to be so easily put off, and made the 97 step climb to the viewing platform. It is very narrow on those stairs with only space for a single person. But I always feel its worth it for the views and Eger is such a colourful city. The blend of yellow, red, white and green really tantalised the eye.

Marzipan Museum

Just off the bottom of the Minaret is the very niche but beautiful Marzipan Museum. This museum is the brain child of Hungarian pastry chef, Kopcsik Lajos. The chef found fame internationally for his creations and this spurred him to open a museum to showcase them. It’s a very visual museum and its amazing what he was capable of doing with almond and sugar.

Amongst the many exhibits include a Russian Family, a full size grandfather clock. a model of the Minaret, and numerous heads, recreations of artworks and ornaments. It’s all done very tastefully. The centerpiece of the museum is a recreation of a baroque room, in honour of Eger’s baroque tradition. All of the exhibits are incredibly made from marzipan, and the handiwork is very admirable. It’s not a huge museum but it is a perfect distraction for those seeking something different. It certainly tops the unusual list for things to do in Eger Hungary.

Lyceum

The Lyceum is one of the more unusual visits I made. It was originally constructed in Baroque grandeur to be a university, but the Hapsburgs put a halt to its opening. So what exists is an enormous building encircling a courtyard, with vast empty halls. Or so it seemed in summer. It finally realised its university ambitions in the 20th century. Admission was 500 HUF each and directional signs take you up grand staircases to the observatory tower. The exhibitions are part science museum, and part gallery of the astronomical equipment that were originally purchased for the university.

One final stairs takes you to a roof, for more fine views over the city. It’s best to wait till twenty minutes past the hour, as at this point one is taken up to the camera obscura. At the time this was built it was only the second in Europe after Edinburgh. As the room darkens and the optics move into position, it’s a really intriguing twenty minutes as sights from the city are projected. You have to admire the engineering that constructed it. The tour guide here was multilingual and had excellent English. There was good humour in his presentation too and it was quite interactive.

One final sight worth visiting is the library, with its ceiling frescoes by Kracker. It is one of three rooms that the talented Austrian painted, however this is the only one open to the public.

Archbishops Palace

We also visited the Archbishops Palace the 18th century home of the head of the church. It has been recently renovated and now hosts the Eger art museum on the first floor. At 1800 HUF it was the most expensive of the Eger attractions and the most disappointing as well. The identity seems to have been lost in the renovation. The ground floor showcases many vestments and reliquaries from the church. The rooms that maintained their original furnishings, such as the study room with its murals, were beautiful. Perhaps the buildings most lavish room is the small chapel located within, but this can only be seen through an elevated viewing platform and glass.

The City Under The City

The City under the City attraction is a guided only tour that takes you into the archbishop cellars. The tour takes about 45 minutes but we were a little put off. It’s quite cold down below and we weren’t really dressed for it and all tours are only in Hungarian, so unless you are more fluent than I (I can order a drink or food) it detracts from the experience.

Turkish Baths

Every Hungarian city worth its salt has its own thermal baths, and Eger is no exception. Warm thermal waters flow beneath the ground of the entire city, and several bath complexes are available. The most traditional of these are the Turkish Baths built by Abdi Pasha the Albanian between 1610 and 1617. Besides the relaxing six pools that are now available to guests, its main feature is a cupula which is covered in 200,000 gold plated mosaics. Also worth seeing is the modern thermal bath Bitskey Aladar, named after a famous swimmer. It features secession architecture, an art nouveau style made famous in Eastern Europe at the turn of the last century.

Egri Road Beatles Museum

In the city’s Corona Hotel, is the rather unexpected Beatles Museum. It takes visitors back in time through the bands career with music, photographs, and newspaper clippings. I could find no relationship between the band and Eger, but hey its The Beatles- does there need to be? The guided tour costs 2500 HUF per person.

Dining on Istvan Dobó Ter

István Dobó Square is Eger’s main square and plenty of restaurants and cafes are in the surrounding area. With a backdrop of the castle and the Minorite Church it’s an aesthetic way to dine. We had lunch in HBH Bajor Sorhaz, an upmarket restaurant where I can recommend the delicious goose leg and the Rantott Hus. It’s one of the best places in town to get that delicious breaded pork.

We returned to the square that evening as the last shards of daylight left, and had dinner in Senator-haz Etterem. Here we were content to order the venison goulash, and we were lucky enough to have landed here on 20th September which is the public holiday in honour of St Istvan, the founder of the Hungarian nation. We had prime seats for the firework display that marked this occasion as they lit the sky above us.

Why Eger is Hungary’s Most Beautiful

Eger is a touristic city, but far from being swamped in tourism. It’s charms have yet to draw in large numbers of visitors and its sights can be easily enjoyed.

As Hungarian cities go it impressed me the most. The qualities of Budapest are well known, but this little city may just sneak it on charm and charisma.

The sights are strictly limited to the city. The surrounding area contains salt terraces, cave houses and the Matra Mountains. It’s why I recommend an extended stay in Eger. My guide to the Matra Mountains.

Let someone else show you Eger

There are a number of tours of Eger running directly from Budapest, if you choose to see the city that way. Get your guide offers two very interesting ones, taking in the surrounding countryside too.

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Travel Insurance

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Tokaji Wine has been produced on the slopes here for an unknown amount of time, with evidence suggesting that Celts in pre-Roman times engaged in the production. The reasoning behind UNESCO’s 2002 decision to award it World Heritage Site status is due to the Tokaj aszú wine, which is the world’s oldest botrytized wine. This is when a fungus (otherwise known as a noble rot) infects the grapes and when they are picked at a certain stage, very sweet wines can be produced.

As a break from Budapest, the Tokaj Wine Region Historic Cultural Landscape (to give it its proper name) is the perfect place to absorb the Hungarian countryside and feel the real country of Hungary. 40 km to the north of the town, the magnificent Boldogko Castle dominates the plain below. Budapest to Tokaj is a relatively easy road trip to make, and can also be reached by train.

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Budapest to Tokaj

Tokaj is located in North-Eastern Hungary about two and a half hours drive from Budapest. The 231 km/ 144 miles journey takes the M3 motorway, followed by the 79 to Miskolc. Here you may also be distracted by the lure of the Diosgyor Castle or the excellent Miskolctapolca Cave Baths. Route 37 is the final leg of the journey to Tokaj. The town is served by trains direct from Budapest-Keleti station, but it takes a wide route and three hours and twenty minutes.

Tokaj was in fact located just 34km from our base in Nyireghaza and we made our way there for the early afternoon. We had rented an SUV in Budapest through Rentalcars.com and so was easy for us to navigate there.

The town is located at the meeting of the waters of the Tisa and Bodrog rivers. The Tisa is Hungary’s second river and flows through much of Eastern Hungary. The waters seemed rather murky to me, but there are opportunities to take a pleasure cruise.

Where to Stay in Tokaj Wine Region Hungary

Our first stop was at our accommodation and we had chosen the Hotel Tokajvar on Bajacy-Zsilinszky Endre Ut. There aren’t a great number of hotels in the town and most are priced at €50 or under on booking.com and the Tokajvar was the highest-rated. The room was clean and perfectly functional without any attributes to set it apart. However, there was a pleasant sheltered courtyard area and the breakfast the next morning would prove to be tasty.

Alternatively, the nearby town of Tarcal has a manor-hotel called the Andrassy Rezedencia Wine and Spa for those seeking more comfort within the Tokaj wine region area.

History of the Tokaj Wine Region

Tokaj as a town has existed since the 14th century. A castle that once existed was torn down in the 18th century and the buildings which stand now are mostly of 19th-century origin. The buildings of the town are well presented and naturally as one would expect many Pince (cellars) vie for the small passing trade there is. The most attractive of these in a ramshackle kind of way was surely the Boroza Pince. The towns most famed Pince is the Rákóczi Pince which dates from the 15th century which was founded by royalty at the time.

The area has a modern history too which is a controversial one. As Slovakia was separated from Hungary post World War I, a region of Tokaj was then left on the other side of the border. Slovakia continued to produce Tokaj wines, which the Hungarians disputed in the European courts. Under the ruling Tokaj Slovakia is still allowed to be produced. However, we will only focus on the area around the town of Tokaj.

Our Walking Tour of Tokaj

The town was a short stroll away from our hotel and passes plenty of cafes, restaurants and ice cream parlours. What astounded me was how sleepy the town was. For a town famed for its wine, both nationally and internationally there really weren’t many tourists to be seen. It was truly refreshing to explore a town not overran.

The town displays some pleasant architecture as we approached Kossuth Ter, most of it occupied by local government. The main square is overshadowed by the quaint Heart of Jesus Catholic Church. In its shadow, the Bacchus Fountain, with a statue of the Roman god of wine and joy riding a wine barrel, encapsulates what the whole town is about. Also bordering the square are the City Hall and Tokaj Museum. We continued our walking tour down Bethlen Gábor Ut stopping for a coffee in the comfortable Tokaji Kaveporkolo, reputedly the best coffee around. We certainly didn’t have any better.

Tokaji Wine Tour

We returned to Tokaj’s main square to satisfy the reasoning why we had come to the town. Why? To drink wine of course. Rakoczi Pince is the most famed of all the cellars so we choose instead to go for wine tasting in Himesudvar, which was a few minutes walk away on Dozsa Gyorgy Ut. Quality and price are often better off the main streets wherever you go. The Himesudvar cellar itself is actually located in a building of much history. It was built in the 16th century as a hunting lodge by the then king of Hungary.

We were treated to an excellent Tokaj wine tour of the cellar in English without having to book. Ordinarily, advanced booking is required, but I guess this was a slow day.  The tour gave a good history of the area and the production of the famous wines. We were humbled by how small an operation some of the cellars have. None of them has the capacity to bottle their wines, and their wine production levels are surprisingly low. Also, the processes are very intensive especially compared to that which I have previously witnessed in Tuscany or Greece. Most of the cellars are built under houses and cut into the hill to preserve a constant temperature. The cellars are only used for ageing and fermenting in oak barrels.

Tokaj Wine Tasting- What its all about

The tour and tasting of six wines cost 2900 HUF each and as wine is always better with cheese and olives we added an additional 900 HUF. The correct order for tasting wines is Furmint, Szamorodni, Tokaji Szamorodni sweet, and then to try the Tokaji Aszu Wines. The program here took us through the different grape varieties of Furmint, Sargamuskotaly (muscat), to Szamorodni, and then to the aszú wine. The aszú wines are measures in puttonyos which is the concentration of sugar in the wine, usually between three and six. Needless to say, the six was extremely sweet and was nigh on impossible to drink. We really enjoyed the dry whites such as Furmint and the semi-sweet Sargamuskotaly and after the tasting, some extra glasses were had.

Where to eat in Tokaj

Tokaj has a broad selection of restaurants, from pizza and langos stands to a lot serving traditional Hungarian cuisine. Bacchus restaurant on Rákóczi square seems the best central option. We choose Bonchidai Etterem which sits on the banks of the river, where we had the famous Hungarian fish soup Halaszle, followed by Rantott Hus, the Hungarian version of Schnitzel.

We had lunch on our second day across the river in Halra Bor Etterem. This restaurant is again traditional. So traditional in fact that we found Kakas Porkolt. This is an unusual local delicacy and I ordered. For those who don’t speak Hungarian (me) this translates into rooster testicle stew. I wasn’t even sure, so when the waiter informed us he didn’t have I was left somewhere between disappointed and relieved. I settled for my go to option in Hungary, Cigany Pecsenye, pork cooked the gypsy way as the name implies.

Walks from Tokaj

Besides the walks in and around the town and down its passive streets there is also an excellent walk up through the vineyards that line the slopes up towards Bald Mountain, for an elevated view over the town and the rivers. This walk can be found at the rear of the cemetery. Maybe it was the wine (definitely) but we didn’t make it. We took a morning walk out of town and along the train line. A number of Pince are to be found alongside the train station. I guess for those who just can’t wait to get to the town after the long train ride here. It was too early in the day and none of them were open, which was also probably a good thing.

See the town without walking

Back in the town we decided to take the fun train that runs from the towns car park. It’s an enjoyable way to see the town as it snakes up through the streets to the town square before taking to the side streets and heading out of town, past the towns smaller churches and charming buildings, to the towns new theatre. It then hugs the river for the return route and brings you to the train station and its many pince.

Storks in Tokaj Wine Region

One of the most fascinating features of Tokaj and the surrounding villages are the storks. These distinctive birds whose main claim to fame is to be the bringer of babies, build their nests in elevated positions. Often they are found on electric poles where they build a huge nest of twigs and branches. The construction alone is an impressive sight before you see the mother feeding her fledgelings. I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing storks in their natural habitat before and it’s one of the areas most impressive things to see.

Suggested drives in Tokaj Wine Region

The hills that surround Tokaj are a wine lovers paradise. The cultivation of grapes is the main farming around, and a drive will take you into fields full of vines. If you don’t fancy the aforementioned walk up to Bald Mountain head to Torcal where a minor road will lead you up to the summit. We were enticed by the town of Mad, possibly more by the name than anything else, but the village didn’t live up to expectations. Were I not driving though, a visit to the internationally highly regarded Royal Tokaji vineyard would have been a goal. Alternatively, the town of Erdonenye lies 20 kilometres from Tokaj, in a valley between the vineyards of the south and the Zemplen Hills to the north.

A recommended detour to Boldogko Castle

Forty kilometres north of the Tokaj region near the Zemplen hills a castle hugs a ridge high above the town of Boldogkovaralja. This castle begs to be visited. Originally constructed during medieval times, though no approximate date is known, it was certainly constructed in response to the Mongol invasion of the thirteenth century. Hungarian castles have had a torrid past, nearly all were blown up by the Germans after a failed rebellion of 1702. Boldogko castle has been rebuilt this century with an addition of a secure walkway to the lookout tower at the end of the ridge. It all looks rather innocuous from the distance.

The castle is foreboding when you park your car and make the uphill hike to its entrance. The rock face seems to form part of the castle wall and its hard to know where one ends and the other begins. Admission is quite cheap costing 1100 HUF or around €4 per person. Bear in mind the walk to the castle and the interior is very rough and not suitable for those with limited mobility.

Boldogko Castle Interior

The inside buildings have largely been rebuilt however a good amount of it reflects its original design. It’s so rough around the edges that its near perfect. Clamber up and down stairs to other levels and enjoy a number of exhibits inside from dioramas of significant battles, to the torture instruments of the dungeons. There are the usual displays of armour, and information dedicated to the lives of those who inhabited the castle. It’s all enjoyable if not a little similar to what we have seen everywhere else before.

The Watchtower

What separates Boldogko from other castles of its ilk is the watchtower on the ridge. This watchtower is accessed from a stone opening on the castle wall. The walkway opens out to simply spectacular views. It curves out what was surely a precarious ridge before for about thirty metres before ending in the wooden watchtower. It’s a breathtaking experience as you walk out and see the town far below. The view stretches south across the fields to the Zemplen Hills. The fields were awash with the colours of different crops and simply added to a perfect little moment. Is there a more spectacular photo opportunity in Hungary?

If you haven’t had your fill of all things medieval after a visit to the castle then why not venture down to the medieval-themed restaurant beneath, Castrum Boldua. Big long banqueting tables, wall-mounted shields, and wooden plates full of meat await, with only a knife and your hands as utensils. Wash it all down with goblets of beer and wine to complete your trip back in time. Certainly, it’s not one for those who are refined. But even they can get lost in the moment.

Tokaj is an interesting part of Hungary, that has yet to be overrun by tourists and is fully worthy of a few days of exploration.

Between Tokaj and Budapest is the stunning city of Eger. Revered as one Hungary’s finest, its architecture, food, and wine certainly live up to that billing. We stayed for a a night in the city, and I asked the question, Is Eger Hungary’s Most Beautiful City?, in one of my most popular blogs.

Have you visited this part of Hungary?

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A Little History on Debrecen

As the capital of the Great Plain, an area covering 20,000 square miles, Debrecen serves as the commercial and bureaucratic centre for eastern Hungary. It is also the base of the Protestant church in Hungary, with the highest concentration of Lutheran’s in the country.

Debrecen is a 13th century settlement that was first given a charter in 1361. It served as a market town for many centuries and no buildings exist from its medieval past. The greatest event in its history was during the Hungarian revolution of the 1840’s when the Revolutionary Government fled Budapest and set up camp here, making Debrecen the Hungarian capital in the process. It was short-lived, they soon fell to a Russian army on a battle ground outside the city. The city prospered after this time, but World War II took its toll with a vast percentage of the city destroyed. It was rebuilt after the war by the citizens.

Budapest to Debrecen

Debrecen is easily reached by taking the M3 & M35 motorways from Budapest in around two hours 30 minutes, with a distance of 230 KM (143 miles).

For those wishing to visit by train, Ferihegy station in Budapest has direct trains to Debrecen, which take around 3 hours.

There is also an international airport serving a number of European cities. It is serviced by airlines Lufthansa, Wizz Air and Smartwings Hungary. The airport is 6 Km outside the city, and buses R1 and R2 provide connections.

Public transport in Debrecen

Should you arrive by train, then you will take Piac Utca to the city centre. The tram service outside the station is very efficient and Tram number 1, links the station, centre, and the great forest. A tram fare is around 330 huf (€0.95, £0.80, $1.02 at time of writing) and tickets should be bought in advance, and validated on board.

Things to do in Debrecen

Walk Piac Utca

You could take the tram, but I’m endorsing walking the length of Piac Utca. Many impressive buildings line the street, many influenced by the secessionist architectural movement at the turn of the 20th century. The first on the right is the Court House, before the wonderful County Government Office. Built in 1912, it’s facade is fascinating and it features stained glass windows depicting the seven chieftains who founded Hungary.

Further along the Financial Palace, and the rather pink frontage of the First Savings Bank catch your eye. Finally we have the Hotel Aranybika, rebuilt in 1915.. It is a wonderful piece of art-nouveau architecture and the lobby is blessed with a stained glass ceiling. Sadly the rooms seem to have aged badly and it is best appreciated for its aesthetics.

Visit Kossuth Square

The city is centred on an attractive main square known as Kossuth square and most of its sights are to be found within walking distance. The square is mostly pedestrianized except for being dissected by the tram line. It is named after Lajos Kossuth, who led Hungary during the revolution of the 1840’s. Both sides of the square are lined by attractive bars and restaurants and it really is a pleasant place to take a stroll. Fountains and water features really add to the ambience. For a thrilling ride over the city, the Debrecen Eye rises to 45 metres over the square, at a cost of 2000 huf per person.

Tour the Great Church

The Great Church or Nagy Templom in Hungarian is the symbol of the city of Debrecen and the centrepiece of Kossuth Square. It’s bright yellow neoclassical facade really stands out and it’s twin clock towers are its main draw. They remind me of a diving bell helmet.

The church is also the symbol of the protestant church is Hungary since its construction in 1824. Opening hours vary drastically throughout the year, but on summer weekdays it is open from 9 to 6. Entry to the church is 700huf and this gives you access to climb the clock towers. I rarely decline the opportunity to climb a tower.

The west tower consists of 210 steps and centred within is the four and a half tonne Rákóczi Bell. This bell is significantly older than the church, dating from 1642 and was constructed from Austrian cannonballs. It survived the fire of 1802 that decimated much of Debrecen including the church that previously existed on the site.

The principal reason to climb the towers is not the invincible bell, but to gain entry to the viewing platform that gives good views down over the square and across the city. The views are decent if not spectacular.
Much of the rest of the church is filled with curios such as models of biblical structures such as the tower of Babylon. The actual church floor borders on bland with the exception of the organ to the rear of the pulpit.

See Debrecen’s Reform Churches

There are two very contrasting Reform Churches to be found within the city. The first of these, the Reformatus Kistemplom is on Kossuth square. It has seen a difficult past since 1661, being burned down, and having its spire destroyed in a storm which inspired those rebuilding it to give it a castellated parapet. It is known locally as the truncated church. It’s one of those difficult Hungarian churches to visit only opening between 10 and 1. But it’s worth the effort. It’s unique in image amongst Hungarian churches, and unlike the Nagy Templom, the interior is beautifully decorated. The tower can be climbed also.

The other reform church that is worth investing your time in is not located in the city centre. It is on Arpad Ter about 2 km outside. My first impressions were it was made of Lego, but later I assumed Walt Disney had a part to play.

Originally built in 1912 but altered several times since, the most recent being in 2017 which presented it with a major facelift. Whatever they did it worked on me. I can’t attest for the interior as it was unfortunately closed with no obvious opening hours but those magical turreted towers won over my heart. The roof was also decorated with colourful tiles. It was an inspired renovation.

Learn about local history at the Deri Museum

The Deri Museum is located near the rear of the Great Church in a neo-baroque building. Admission to this quite excellent museum is 1800 huf. The collection was donated by Frigyes Deri to the Hungarian government in 1920, on condition that a museum would be built in the city of Debrecen. The exhibits have at their heart a trio of paintings by Mihály Munkacsy. His works on the Passion of the Christ are amongst the most treasured of Hungarian art. Occupying one room of the museum, they cover the walls and are sure to wow.

Many artefacts from the surrounding region that define this part of the world form the rest of the collection. These include period home furnishings, book bindings, honey cake moulds, and jewellery and armoury. The best of its international offerings are a Japanese section on Samurai’s and the Egyptian mummies presentation. However the first room, dedicated to the burial rituals of the area, was in its dark way the most captivating for me. It was truly fascinating how warriors would be buried with their horses.

Another branch of the Déri Museum is found on Peterfia Street. Dedicated to Ferenc Medgyessy, a Hungarian sculptor who produced some great works in the 20th century. Medgyessy produced four statues which represented the different departments of the Deri Museum, and subsequently won the grand prix at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1937. These can be seen in Deri Square. The Ferenc Medgyessy memorial museum contains some 200 works by the artist, as well as a substantial amount of information on his life. The ticket for the Deri museum also covers admission here, as well as the house of arts and literature, known as the Irodalom Haza.

Wander and see the other sights of the center

Within easy walking distance of the centre there are many other fascinating sights. To the west of the centre, lies St Annes Cathedral, and also the cute sight of lovers locks adorning a door at Kulcsos-fal. Nearby the stunning Csokanai Theatre is well worth a look or indeed a visit to catch a show. The theatre was built in 1965 and was in fact heavily influenced by Moorish architecture.

Crossing eastwards take a stroll through Kalvin square. It runs to the rear of the Great Church. Here you will find the Lycium Tree, a symbol for the reformation in Hungary. It was said the religion would develop if a tree would grow from a branch planted in the ground. Case in point.

The Debrecen Reformed College forms one side of Kalvin Square. This college is in continued use since 1538. During the Hungarian revolution, its oratory was the seat of the Hungarian government. With some excellent murals and quite unique designs throughout, it is indeed worth a visit.

In the streets to the east, do also seek out the beautiful Pasti Utcai Synagogue.

Renowned local artist Hollo Laszlo is commemorated in the Hollo Memorial Museum in a street named after the artist. It can be found about 5 minutes walk from the centre. His works are displayed in a what was his family home, turned museum.

Take in some fresh air at the Big Forest

It won’t be winning prizes for imaginative titles but this area north of the city is a refreshing break from the city centre. It’s known locally as the Nagyerdei park. If Kossuth square is the city’s soul, then the Big Forest is its heartbeat. As earlier mentioned it is easily reached by Tram 1 from the centre or train station. It covers a large area and a plethora of popular sights, which I’ll list below..

• Spend some hours at the popular Aquaticum Mediterranean pleasure baths. This hotel hosts a wellness centre and an excellent indoor waterpark;
• Visit Debrecen Zoo, home to 170 species of animals. Within the complex also are an amusement park and the Debrecen botanical gardens;
• The Nagyerdei Park contains the most modern football stadium in the country and the home to Debrecen FC;
• For those wishing to nurture their fun side, why not take a walk along the stepping stones through the lake (careful I fell in). Or alternatively climb the Nagyerdei water tower and abseil back down. You can just relax with a coffee in the cafe at the tower of course;
• Go and admore the one hundred year old Debrecen University. The main university building, of neo-baroque style, is a glass ceilinged beauty. Take the time to explore the arcaded corridors and stained glass marvels within. Stretched out in front, are French gardens, lined by statues and centred on a pool;
• Part of the university campus, is the Agora Science Museum. Featuring a planetarium, and no end of science experiments to reproduce, its guaranteed to fill some hours.

Day trips from Debrecen

Hortobagyi National Park

This UNESCO World Heritage Site is within easy reach of Debrecen, via a thirty minute train ride. Trains run throughout the day. It is truly one of the hidden gems of Europe. The domain of the cowboys of Europe, a visit to the Mata Stud Farm will take you into the world of Gulyas and Csikos. For a step back in time, it really holds no parallel in Hungary, or possibly even in Europe. Travel here to see the indigenous Nonius horses, Racka sheep and Hungarian Grey Cattle. For more on this unique location visit my blog on Hortobagy.

Hadjuszoboszlo

The surrounding area of Debrecen has some unique sights. The rather difficult to pronounce Hadjuszoboszlo, 25 km away, is famed for thermal waters. At its heart is a complex of pools and waterparks.

Nyiregyhaza

This small city to the north is notable for a fine pedestrianised centre, and its Sosto area outside the city. Sosto plays host to a sprawling series of thermal pools and parks. Its zoo is regarded as the best in the country, while the open air Sosto museum recreates village life of the 19th century. Its also the hometown of one half of CarpeDiemEire, and we have made many visits to Nyiregyhaza.

Mariapocs

The small village of Mariapocs is particularly noteworthy for its byzantine catholic church. The church is famed for the huge iconostasis that hangs above its altar. Its receives yearly pilgrimages, on account of the phenomenon that occured here on three occasions. Known as the weeping madonna, tears were seen coming from the face of the painting of Mary, mother of Jesus. The phenomenon lasted many days on each occasion. The church is incredibly beautiful within, and well worth a detour to delve into its history.

When to visit Debrecen

The main event in the Debrecen Calendar is the Festival of Flowers an event which takes place every August 20th. Floats built from thousands of flowers partake in a parade through the streets. It is a ticketed event and there is a need to book it in advance should we wish to attend this seated street event. Try to schedule a visit around the flower carnival as the whole city comes to life, stalls fill the square and live artists perform.

Where to stay

Debrecen has a number of good hotels. They are split between the city centre and around the Big Forest area. With good transport routes into the city I would recommend to avail of the latter with the added bonus of the spa nearby. The Aquaticum runs its own hotel. Most hotels are reasonably priced as is expected in this part of Hungary.

Have you visited Debrecen, Hungary? Let me know what you enjoyed in the comments below.

How to get to the Budapest best views

First of all it’s best to warn you. Good views come at a price, and that is usually a lot of walking, together with a significant amount of steps. Of course the hunt for that Budapest city view is just the tonic for the carb heavy Hungarian cuisine.

The trips between the views can be managed by the tram service to a certain extent and the underground is excellent for travelling between Gellert to Pest (M4) and Pest to Heroes Square (M3). To travel between Pest and Budapest Castle bus 16 is ideal.

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Budapest’s Best views and Photo Spots

• Siklo Funicular
• Fisherman’s Bastion
• Matthias Church
• Budapest Castle Walls
• Gellert Hill
• Banks of the Danube
• Budapest’s Rooftop Bars
• St Istvan’s Cathedral
• Budapest Eye
• Vajdahunyad Castle

I will start with the many vistas that the castle has to offer, which is also likely your first stop should you come to this city.

Siklo Funicular

This is the most stylish of ways to reach the castle. The funicular has connected the Danube (known locally as the Duna) with the Buda castle for over a century now. It’s elegant traditional carriage really channels that past era. Bear in mind queues can be huge here and the carriage can only hold a small number at a time. But when you do board, and the short ride uphill starts, you are in for one hell of a view.

At the top you will find the Sandor Royal Palace and it‘s here that the vista over Budapest is best, taking in the Danube, St Istvan’s Church and the old city of Pest. Paths run up and down the hillside you just travelled, and all provide a different aspect of the same.

Fisherman’s Bastion

From the funicular it’s a ten minute walk up into the castles main attraction. The Fisherman’s Bastion is not only one of the prettiest places in Budapest but it possesses possibly its best photo spots too. The Bastion built at the end of the 19th century is a series of stairs and balconies, built to replace the defunct town walls. Do pay in to the better parts and chill out in the bar with an ice cream or drink. It’s a great place to soak up the atmosphere and frame a few photos using the many curves and shapes of the bastion.

That view down to the Hungarian parliament building is the most iconic of all in Budapest.

This is the best view of Budapest parliament. And if you can’t get an instagramable shot on the steps of the Fisherman’s Bastion then you never will. But don’t worry you will, It’s photogenic gold.

Matthias Church

The enigmatic church standing next to the Fisherman’s Bastion is the Matthias Church, named after Hungary’s first king. The “fairy-tale” like interior was one of the surprises, and I count it among the best of Budapest attractions. But we are here to talk views. A joint tower and church ticket can be purchased from the cash office. From here it’s a meager 197 steps to the lookout tower top and a glorious panorama. If you can coincide your climb with sunset as I did, better still, and watch the sun manoeuvre itself behind the Buda hills.

Budapest Castle walls

Should you turn left at the Sandor Palace instead of right, then a lesser followed path over the walls of Budapest castle district awaits. The walls make great use of their high location, meandering in and out of the hill face and presenting an ever changing angle on the lands below. This is some of the older parts of the castle, and the walls will introduce you to many parts. Far below the Duna sits, the scene rendered ever more peaceful by glimpses of the Varkertbazar gardens offering up seasonal colours contrasting with classical fountains.

Gellert Hill

The walk along the walls finally brings you back down to ground level and the foot of Gellert hill. But now the next problem of the most significant climb within the city awaits. Is it worth those tightened calves and leg aches the following morning? You better believe it is. There is the option to take bus 27, which travels right to the Citadella of Budapest at the top but I’m advocating the hike. Plus you get great views along the way. Keep an eye out for the Gellert and Rudas thermal bath on the way.

The top of Budapest hill is quite a historic place for tragic reasons. It is from here that Russian tanks fired down to into the city to quell an uprising in 1956, and the location of the fortress from which the Habsburgs controlled the city following a previous revolution in 1848. The Statue of Liberty now stands here holding a palm leaf above her head to commemorate independence from Germany.

Undoubtedly, that tactical position, chosen by the Habsburgs and Russians is why we are here. It is definitely unparalleled as the best view in Budapest in my opinion and I’m confident you will be as wowed as I was. Encompassing six bridges of the Danube, from Liberty Bridge to Margaret Island, it is without a doubt made for panoramas. Gellert Hill is also tops for sunsets in the city, the one I witnessed was beyond dramatic. So again timing is key here and with no closing time of the park, it’s easy to judge. Just don’t leave it too late to come back down or you’ll be wandering down the hill in the dark.

Banks of the Danube

If you did as I, then you’ll end up on the banks of the Danube, with night falling around. Which takes us to the next view bound to inspire, that over the banks of the Danube. Honestly it’s worth seeing in a myriad of ways, by day or night, from it’s bridges and also by a river cruise. The Parliament lit up at night and reflecting in the river is simply nothing short of perfect. Rarely will you come across a building so beautiful in Europe, so it’s not to be missed from all the best photo spots that Budapest offers. The many fine bridges crossing the Danube each give their own unique perspective, with the Chain Bridge in particular very luminous by night.

To the eastern banks of the Danube lies Pest, the second of three cities united to form the modern day city. Pest is a more “working” city than Buda and with that’s it’s a more lively place come night. That brings us to the next place to sample the city from an aerial perspective.

Budapest’s Rooftop Bars

Or places as it’s turns out. Budapest has a number of rooftop bars, all of which face towards Pest, and also cater for watching the sunset. Of course the difference here is that you can sit and enjoy the views over a cocktail, or a beer. The best of the Budapest rooftop bars include High Note Sky Bar and 360 Bar with their close proximity to St Istvan’s Cathedral. St Andrea Wine and Skybar is nestled on Vaci Utca, so it’s the perfect place to drop after some shopping.

My personal favourite is Intermezzo Bar. It is part of the Hotel President. It’s view of the roof of the Post Office Savings Bank clearly wins the day. When the designer of the roof was asked why he produced something so elaborate so high off the ground, he replied he designed it for the birds. Well now you too can share that view.

St Istvan’s Cathedral

After that relaxing suggestion we are back to towers. St Istvan’s cathedral is only just over 100 years old and as it’s centerpiece, contains the hand of the first king of Hungary and saint from which the place of worship gets its name. On the other hand (sorry) it’s also an ideal place to get up high and witness the city. The dome can be climbed to the top and it’s only 364 steps to the top. Only! Be prepared for a different view here, with close proximity to its twin towers and also looking over the center of Pest.

Ferris Wheel of Budapest

One of the features of Pest that can be clearly seen from the cathedral is the Budapest eye. And another of those aerial views. As with any cities eye, it’s a slow ride up over the rooftops to a height of 65 meters, and is also ranked as one of the highest in Europe. A ride on the eye costs 3000 ft, somewhere in the region of $10 or €9.

Vajdahunyad Castle

In the area near Heroes Square there’s a wealth of attractions and is indeed a worthwhile trip from the city. As suggested earlier the metro is the most energy saving (yours) way to get there.

Within the area, Vajdahunyad Castle is the biggest attraction, which was only built in 1896, to celebrate the Hungarian millennia. It houses an agricultural museum, and isn’t a bad way to wile away an hour. Climbing up the Tower of the Apostles will bring you to my last recommended view in Budapest. The city park below and distant city are your perspective here, and it’s enhanced by an ice rink (if you visit in winter) and the dramatic roof of the castle.

Budapest is a city that has amazed me at times and a visit is only enhanced by be plethora of views that are offered within.

All those steps and views builds up an appetite. It’s a good thing Hungary and Budapest serves up a world class cuisine. Don’t worry if you don’t know your Langos from your Goulash. The best of Hungarian cuisine and where to eat it in Budapest is all revealed in my blog on the matter.

Perhaps you need a travel guide. Then my ultimate guide to Budapest covers the city in great detail, and the very best of Budapest Hungary.

Have you been to Budapest? What was your favourite view? What do you like about Budapest?

Liked this article? Then please share or pin.

Sometimes travel is what you expected, and sometimes it isn’t. Often you expect the world of somewhere, and it disappoints. Then there are others you want to avoid like the plague, but can’t figure out why when you get there. One such place is Hatvan Hungary.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

The Easter celebrations in Holloko were a must for us on our recent trip and after reading up on the weekend’s festivities, the plan was hatched to find accommodation the night before, to make the most of that Easter Sunday. But we left it a little late and all was booked up. A thorough search found the only place nearby with accommodation was Hatvan some thirty kilometres away. It was a place we had driven through the outskirts of before and at that time I thought I would prefer never to come back there again.

Want to see how our trip went to Holloko went? Its the best reason to visit Hungary at easter. More at my blog here.

What is this Hatvan in Hungary place all about?

And yet return I now would. So I made the decision to go there as late as possible, as even Google said there was nothing to be found there. TripAdvisor listed one thing to do there. One. Thing.  Could a town even have that little to do? The castle I found in the nearby village of Tura, Schossberger Castle was closed for years now for restoration. Hatvan is the Hungarian word for sixty, and from what I understood it was so called based on its distance from Budapest. Who calls a place after a number. Maybe number one, but why sixty. Sounds like the kind of place that the best thing in it is the road out of it.

The day of our trip arrived and as there was five of us travelling, I was outvoted and we left early for Hatvan. Fans of taking mum along will be happy to hear that Beata’s mum and dad came with us. So now I was faced with a day spent in a town that I really didn’t want to be. What to do? Desperately I scanned our route to Hatvan in search of respite from boredom. Surely there was somewhere where my unquenchable hunger for history and culture could be satiated.

Hope

Hope came in a number of forms.

The town of Polgar had an Archaeopark, an open air museum showcasing village life, buildings and culture. Perfect. Until we arrived and it was closed. Not just for Easter, it’s doors shut for the final time in 2017. Bit late for that so.

Mezokovesed

More hope lay in the town of Mezokovesed. A bigger proposition, it contained an area called the Hadas District. This is a district which embraces old Hungarian traditions. I deemed it worth a look. On this Saturday, with all its Easter connections, much of the town was closed, and it was a still, quiet place. Easter is celebrated widely in Hungary, and one consequence is you can’t celebrate while working. So for four days towns become ghostly, and homes are the centre of attention.

Mezokovesed as a town was completely destroyed three times over the centuries over the past near 1000 years, by the Mongols, Turks and feuding locals. The current town is from 1784. Our first stroll through the streets didn’t impress. The Catholic Church (closed) could possibly have offered something. The Matyo Museum exhibits include handcrafts of the local people of the same name, but one look inside suggested I wasn’t the captive audience. Across the nearby park the Bardos Lajos Tagiskola a concrete building showed promise. The walls are decorated by graffiti, some of it damaged, but nonetheless offering a glimpse into life in the area. They only date from the 1950’s but look like they could adorn the side of a Roman villa, but don’t seem to have any historical significance.

Hadas District

The towns main attraction is the Hadas District, a collection of Matyo homes, dating from the 19th century. They are maintained in that style. The cottages are an exhibit of the crafts that are indigenous to the local people’s such as furniture painting, embroidery, potters and glass cutters. My first impression was an impressed one. Some of the crafts have been practiced here for over 250 years, and the thatched cottages were all quite beautiful. But as it turned out many of the cottages were closed (again), and the area didn’t escape the trap of commercialism. Twenty minutes was enough to happily traverse the streets and realise that it was somewhat limited.

An ice cream later we were back in the car. Mezokovesed would not prove the answer to a fulfilling afternoon. Hatvan beckoned us despite my reluctance. Further along the motorway signs for Gyongyos, another town I had briefly traversed in the past, and after posing the question if anyone was hungry (I know I was) I was given one more hope other than Hatvan.

We could of course have ventured to Eger, which is my favourite city in Hungary. But its a place for a weekend not an afternoon. Be sure to check out Hungary’s most beautiful city in my blog.

Putting my last hope in Gyongyos

I drove through Gyongyos and after finding myself leaving the town centre as quickly as I drove into it, the old question was posed- is this really where I want to spend my afternoon? Trip advisor pointed us to a good pizzeria, called Casa Valeria on Pater Kis Szalez u. and that was superb.

The town has an intriguing narrow gauge railway that travels up to the Matra mountains, which I visited last year on a day trip but the timings were a little random today, so that was a non runner. Maybe another victim of Easter. The nearby Szent Betaltan templom Kincstara caught my eye on my town drive by, so I set off to see alone while the others relaxed in a park. I got there, to find it (yes you guessed it) closed. The gods were not with me today.

Hungary is hardly famous for its road trips but one of the best cuts through the Matra Mountains. From cave houses, vineyards, castles, to salt terraces, its a fascinating drive.

So Hatvan it was to be

I resigned myself to the fact. We arrived in Hatvan around 4pm and as we approached our guesthouse I thought to myself, you know what, this doesn’t look as bad as I expected. An inviting church caught my eye. The guesthouse, the SOS Motel was unusual as the rooms were located in the top floor of a car dealership. The standard was good though and it was equipped with full kitchen facilities, a communal sitting room and complimentary breakfast.

My travel companions were happy to relax and Beatas mum got to watch her show on TV, so I ventured back out to explore alone. I do most of my best exploring alone anyway. Despite knowing the castle was closed in Tura, I drove down there anyway, to tease myself with what I missed as much as anything. The Schossberger castle is built in the romantic neo-Renaissance style in 1883, but had fallen into neglect over the years. If had a haunting appearance before its closure, as it was an empty shell. It was also said to be dangerous though, as much as I like being around castles, I don’t like them being down around me. Now it’s a building site with only glimpses of it past diggers and trees to be appreciated. When it reopens it’s going on my must see agenda for Hungary, whatever form it may take.

A church that caught my eye

My curiosity somewhat perked by that inviting church, I returned there. The Szent Istvan Király Templom has an attractive yellow exterior, with a single bell tower on one side. After some humming and hawing whether to go in (there were 2 cleaners outside and I wasn’t sure if they had just left the door open) I walked in. Finally I was somewhere worthy of my attentions. The church itself was small but it’s ceiling art was astounding and a credit to its artists.

But who painted it, when was it built and why was such a church not accredited as being somewhere worthy of a tourists attention? I cannot say and nor could I ascertain any information on the place.

So what if…?

If such a church with gorgeous art could be overlooked then what else could be. Back in my car I took the overpass that lead to the town centre. Again much to my surprise the town had an affluent and well maintained feel to it. A mysterious tower, part of the bus station stood to my right (I would never discover what that was either).

The town centre welcomed me with the large sight of the large Grassalkovich Mansion to my left. The mansion, built by the family of the same name in the 1750’s, as a castle of sorts, was added to over the years, before looting and damage took its toll in World War II. As repairs helped it gain some of its former grandeur, the decision was made for a national hunting museum to be housed inside. A hunting museum might not always entice me, but the building had a grace, and I’m sure I would have enjoyed it. Would. Were it not past 5pm and I had spent my day looking for better pastures.

Hatvan Town Centre

Speaking of pastures, the beautiful park across from the mansion, would be a cows idea if heaven. Green and lush it formed the centre of the town, a focal point for locals and tourists alike. The Hatvany Lagos Museum, a celebration of local culture, formed one side. The museum also came complete with its own brewery, the products of which can be enjoyed in the museum. Not many museums like that, and I missed it.

Oh what had I done? Why oh why was I not made aware of all this before I set out on my journey. For once my over dependence on the internet for information had failed me. Sometimes travelling into the unknown and embracing it gives more reward than clutching at the straws of what you think you know.

The Szent Adalbert Catholic Church stood along another side of this elegant town park, another feature of the town I would happily explore. Beyond the 200 year old Town Hall’s architecture was the final nail in my thoughts that I know better. I thought that I was a seasoned traveler but maybe it’s is I who is just well seasoned. Has the imagination and adventure of my youth departed?

More surprises

A little taken aback I returned to the hotel. Or at least I tried. I was distracted by that tower at the bus station, and pulled in for a nosey. The distractions didn’t stop there, I was excited to discover a castle on the way in. A derelict shell, the haunting castle stood enclosed behind fencing, now a ghost of its former self. Kristaly Kastely only dates from 1906, but it’s life saw it spend time as a kindergarten, sugar factory and a hotel. Now it’s stands as a stark reminder of passing time, and a mere ghost on google maps.

I had time to capture a sunset before returning to our motel. Sunsets- just one more thing Hatvan can add to it’s unexpected repertoire.

An evening in Hatvan

With my tail between my legs I returned to the motel, where no one really cared about my mistakes as they had enjoyed the day anyway. Everyone was still stuffed from their earlier pizzas, and still had leftovers, except Beata and I, who could eat all day and still be hungry. Se we ventured our for a dinner alone, which was a refreshing change on this vacation. Udvarhaz Vendeglo rated well as a good restaurant, so we took a drive there and parked in the free spacing nearby. It was down a dim lit street, but the space and food offering was a delight. Both of us opted for chicken, mine a thigh with spicy sauce. It was perfect.

The Best Easter Surprise

I kept going on about the nearby town centre to Beata, so with night having already fallen we took a spin into the town. Again Hatvan gave me an unexpected surprise. The Szent Adalbert Catholic Church was commemorating Easter, and our intrigue was heightened by the banners and lamp bearers outside. We had stumbled onto their Easter vigil mass, complete with procession.  It was a beautiful sight as it left the church and completed a full circle of it before returning inside. I’m not religious but the clanging of bells, soft hymns and soothing candle light of the congregation filled my soul. Hatvan had won its place in my heart.

Hatvan I take my hat off to you. As a reminder that we shouldn’t forget the smaller towns, the ones that don’t present as a destination. Sometimes they bring the greatest joy. Take your head up from the map, it was only ever meant to guide us, and forge your own journey. Hatvan is testament to that. Now I need to return someday and appreciate it.

Go forth and find your own Hatvan.

This blog is dedicated to the sights of the capital. I had previously deemed myself not ready to put a guide like this together. My prior visits had been short, but four action filled days this January have given me ample scope now to do the city justice, and guide you to the best of what the city has to offer.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

I have covered the culinary delights of Budapest in my Guide to the Best Hungarian Cuisine, with suggested restaurants, so I would suggest you refer to that if you are a foodie at heart.

Budapest is a city of two halves with a clear demarcation line being the Danube River (or the Duna as it is known locally). For the purposes of this guide, I will split the attractions between those located in Buda and in Pest. Buda is the more historical side containing Budapest Castle, and Gellert Hill. Pest the more commercial side, is not without its stars, with the Parliament, Dohány St Synagogue, and St Istvan’s Cathedral all worthy of a visit. My suggestions are to spend a day exploring the castle and its many sights, a day soaking in the baths and climbing Gellért Hill, before taking to Pest and to its architectural delights.

With one day in Budapest the Buda part is where to start. The castle and the baths at Gellert are the quintessential experiences. Two and three days in Budapest will allow you to branch into Pest. Four days in Budapest will let you see Heroes Square and the host of sights in that area. In my opinion three of four days in Budapest is required to see this vast city.

Currency

The currency of Hungary is Forint for those who aren’t familiar.  Exchange rate usually fluctuates around 300 Forint to 1 Euro, and this is a decent approximation for conversions. At the current time

• 312huf= €1
• 285huf= $1
• 370huf= £1

Arriving in Budapest

First of all let me tell you it’s a big city. You can travel around on foot, but don’t be surprised to see the Fitbit clock up a very high step count, and the soles of your shoes become worn.

There are a number of options to travel from the airport to the city. The easiest is a Taxi inevitably, which should cost around 8000 huf, but be sure to ask for a price in advance. Private airport transfers are available too from the airport, with the price being very comparable to a taxi.

The cheapest mode is of course public transport, with bus 100E leaving every 30 minutes and taking you to Pest, the stop being near the Szent Istvan Cathedral. The trip takes 35 minutes and costs 900 huf. Be sure to validate your tickets on all Hungarian buses, as fines are easy to come by. Alternatively bus 200E will take you to Kobanya-Kispest metro station, and the M3 metro line, which allows you more selectivity of where to stop. The 200E costs 350 huf, with the metro being 400 huf each.

The Budapest metro is the most convenient way to circumnavigate the city with its four lines connecting most of the principal sites. It also avoids the somewhat difficult and angry bus drivers, which is always a plus. There is also a huge network of trams traversing the city.

Where to stay

Having stayed in Budapest on four separate occasions, we have stayed in the two principal areas, the castle district and in Pest. Most of the main hotels are in Pest but should you desire to stay in the more touristic centre, the Hotel Castle Garden is ideal. Comfortable yet inexpensive it will put you on the doorstep of some of the castles most prominent sites.

In Pest I can recommend the Three Corners Hotel Anna Superior which is located near the Jewish Quarter. Located in an elegant building, out room was super spacious with 2 large bedrooms and a large bathroom. The room was clean throughout and perfect for a few nights in the city, especially if one wants to visit Pest. Not sure if the room would suit those with a fear of spiders, the lights were suspended from black cables that looked like spider legs. But I quite like our arachnid friends. The breakfast was interesting too, I filled up on Retes, which are a Hungarian variant on strudel, stuffed with sour cherries, cottage cheese and other delights.

My most recent stays were in the 12 Revay Hotel. This is a medical hotel, the complex being part of a dental practice. So again any sufferers of Dentophobia, steer clear. They offer good room sizes, transport from the airport, and a convenient location. The breakfast offering was a little standard though, but maybe that’s good dental practice. The hotel cost €65 per night in low season.

Buda

Buda is the region to the west of the Danube and is mostly dominated by Budapest Castle. It isn’t a castle in the traditional sense, more a sprawling area with an absolute wealth of attractions within. If you only have a few days in Budapest, it is where to start.

Budapest Castle

It’s not easy to define how to visit Budapest Castle. It’s an area that drags me back time and again, with the Fisherman’s Bastion, being my weakness. But there is so much to do and see besides the areas top billed stars.

Budapest Castle has evolved throughout the centuries from the original defensive function, through the building of many palaces, to its modern-day functions. The many palaces now play host to branches of Hungary’s main institutions from the National Library, the National Gallery, to the History Museum. The buildings of the castle district are all maintained in impeccable condition.

Siklo Funicular

There are a number of ways to access the castle district (if you aren’t already there) but none quite as historical or attractive as the Siklo Funicular. We actually took it back down as the queues up can be horrendous.

If like us you arrive to the daunting prospect of a massive queue, take to the path and stairs that runs up the hill adjacent to the funicular. It’s a steep climb especially if you take the shortcut up the embankment. There are footbridges running over the funicular which give great views down over the chain bridge. Alternatively you can complete the climb to the top where similar views are from a higher position.

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Sandor Palace and changing of the guards

The first building to your right as you disembark the funicular is the Sandor Palace. The grand entrance of Sandor Palace complete with ornamental gates and magnificent wall mounted Turul bird greet you at the top of the hill. The Turul is a mythological bird of prey. Sandor Palace is the official residence of the president of Poland. It’s also the location of the Changing of the Guard and we were lucky enough to stumble upon it. The changing of the guard consists of a good gun salute, and much marching and drumming. It’s not on a par with that at Buckingham Palace but it’s very enjoyable nonetheless. The changing of the guard occurs every hour on the hour, and the soldiers work 9 to 5 like the song.

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Matthias Church

As you make your way north from here, the foundations of the castles earlier incarnations can be seen on your right. Beyond lies the suburbs of District VII of Budapest and the Buda Hills. Continue north and to two of Budapest’s main sights.

The first is the Matthias Church. It’s a real eye catcher. It’s elaborately designed spire has glorious gargoyles and the diamond pattern roof tiles are a magnificent highlight. It really is a gorgeous church and one of the most beautiful in Hungary.
The church hasn’t always looked like this. It was originally constructed in 1015 before being completely rebuilt in the gothic style in the 14th Century. It served time as a mosque during the occupation of the city by the Turks. A major refurbishment in the 19th century was responsible for the roof tiles and the spire.

The ticket office is located in the square in front and if you want to climb the church tower you have to pay separately for that. The tower is by guided tour only, and you can only go at the set times. Why I don’t know, it’s perhaps only for safety. The church and the tower each cost 1800 huf to enter.

It’s a blessing the churches exterior is aesthetic, as at least it prepares you for the interior. I immediately christened the church “the fairytale church” as I started walking around. So much of the interior is as if plucked from a story book, or from the mind of Hans Christian Anderson. The interior will confound you with its floor to ceiling paints and murals. It’s hard to even place its influence, it’s simply unlike any church I’ve been in before. Give plenty of time to study all the walls. During the Turkish occupation these walls were whitewashed to tone down the building for use as a mosque, so it’s even more wonderful that they could be restored to their original elegance. The church’s pulpit contains a ring of carvings around its parapet, and dates from the 1890s.

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There’s a number of side chapels too, my favourite being the chapel housing the tombs of Béla III and Agnes. For me this was the most fantastical part of what is a fantastical church.

Yet another compelling part of the church is the Madonna statue. Hidden behind the wall during the occupation, cannon fire caused the wall to collapse, exposing the statue to the praying Muslims. Perceived as a sign from God, they lost faith and soon they lost the city too.

The Ecclesiastical Art Museum is also housed in the church, in its basement and on the first floor. Again the wall designs are as interesting as the artifacts. It contains several relics and also a copy of the Hungarian crown and royal jewels. There are elevated views of the church from here too.

Having booked the tower tour too I planned my ascent to coincide with the sunset. Luckily the tour began at 4, some fifteen minutes before the winter sunset. The interior of the tower contained information on the church, the most interesting pertaining to the bells. Apparently if the largest bell were to be rang, it would knock the tower down due to its weight. Renders it a bit pointless but interesting nonetheless. But with any tower I’m always more interested in the top and the views over the church’s roof and down to the Danube below. They didn’t disappoint, and ensured the 197 steps were worth their effort. My timing was perfect too as the sun just disappeared behind the Buda Hills. It was incredibly windy up there in winter time so that’s something to bear in mind, and some of the people with me found it uncomfortable at the top.

Fisherman’s Bastion

Back on level ground the attractive statue of Hungary’s first king St Istvan provides an introduction to the spectacular Fisherman’s Bastion beyond.

The Fisherman’s Bastion is second only to the Parliament building in terms of the aesthetics of Budapest buildings in my opinion. Taking the place of a defunct castle wall, the bastion was built to provide a medium to look down upon the best views in Budapest. But the bastion isn’t all about the views. It’s a series of balconies and steps, accompanied by seven turrets. The seven turrets represent the seven tribes that formed Hungary and the bastion takes its name from the Fisherman’s guild that once protected this part of the city. The current structure was built in the 19th century during the golden age of Hungarian architecture.

The main pleasures to be derived here are from simply walking through the bastion and traversing it’s stairs. One of the taller turrets can be accessed at a cost of 800 huf. This gives access to a seated area and comes with a free drink. Of course the views from here are again spectacular both to the rear over the Matthias Church and down to the Danube and the Parliament Building. On the top floor of the turret there is a model of Budapest, with interactive lights on all of the city’s main attractions. For me this is Budapest’s best spot, with stunning views, and its most instagrammable location. However everyone else thinks the same so it can be very crowded.

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Make your way back along Uri Utca, and if underground exploring is your thing then you are in the right place.

Underground Budapest

There are two very different experiences to be had. The first was the Budapest Labyrinth. These tunnels are a remnant from bygone times when they served a purpose for storage and access. Nowadays they are little more than a maze and they mostly serve for scares. There is a searing smell of damp. The tunnels under the castle are quite extensive but as you travel deeper they become darker and darker. There are exhibitions on Vlad the Impaler and others but at 3000 huf I question if it represents value for money.

A far more rewarding experience is the Hospital in the Rock. The Hospital in the Rock consists of 1km of old caves which were used on two separate occasions as a hospital facility. The museum costs 4000 huf to enter and after the heartbreak of hearing that no photography is permitted inside, I recovered to thoroughly enjoy it. The hospital first found its use in World War II before again being used in the uprising of 1956. Commemoration is paid to those who made it possible to run a hospital here. It also tells of the hardships, how disease was rampant and how a shortage of bandages caused the death of many.

After the 50’s the area was converted for a new use, as a fallout bunker in the event of nuclear war. Exhibitions on the bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki are harrowing in their depiction of the ravages on humanity. Perhaps the most moving of all was a series of drawings done by survivors in Hiroshima. One ghastly drawing that has stayed with me depicted people drinking acid rain, so ravaged by thirst and hunger, yet completely unaware of their fatal action. The museum was a sobering experience, but I do appreciate anything that exposes the negative side of war.

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Lower Buda Castle

The section of the Buda Castle below the Sandor Palace is also well worth exploring should you have the time. There are the National trio, the National Gallery, National Library and the History Museum. I haven’t visited any (yet). Keep an eye out for the Fountain of King Matthias, Budapest’s version of the Trevi Fountain. King Matthias was a 15th century famed king of Hungary. You can guarantee there are plenty of crowds here too, but not quite on a par with its Italian equivalent. The Fountain depicts King Matthias in a hunting party, standing defiantly at the top over a dead stag. It’s a beautiful feature of the city. The sculptor was Alajos Strobl and the fountain was erected in 1899.

The lower extremities of the castle are also worth the effort if for the continued good views. There are structures of historical significance too in the Mace Tower, which was constructed during the 14th Century, and the Deli Rondella, a beautiful semi-circular structure, also dating from the same period. They were both rebuilt in the 1950’s. Keep an eye out for the stunning stain glass windows above the rear entrance to the history museum.

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Further on we come across the Castle gardens Bazaar which is a renovated complex of exhibition halls and gardens. The gardens are an ideal way to approach or return from the castle, with a maze of walkways and paths. Originally they date from the 19th century. The gardens are fronted by a neo-renaissance gateway lavishly adorned with statues and featuring an interior fountain. Two beautiful arches stand to each side. The structures are what one would expect Mediterranean countries and the gardens are a welcome slice of colour in a city renowned for its architecture.

.Budapest Baths

Budapest biggest attraction for many are its baths. Thermal waters are a common thing in Hungary, and this feature has been exploited by the occupiers of Budapest’s area for two millenia. Inevitably the Ottomans embellished the landscape with baths during their occupation, and some of these still remains. Budapest’s modern baths are quite the architectural achievements, evoking thoughts of Ancient Rome. The baths are scattered across the city, with Király, Gellert and Rudas located in Buda, and Szechenyi near Heroes Square in Pest.

After studying the various complexes, the classical stylings of Gellert and it’s location won it for me. I certainly didn’t regret my decision. Depending on where you are commuting from the metro can be a time and leg saving way to get here. I for the most part prefer to walk city’s and Budapest was no exception. The stroll to Gellert is both scenic and startling. I approached from the castle and took Ybl Miklos Ter. There is a spectacular array of buildings and monuments along the docks. A spate of museums lies on this stretch and outside the medical museum stands some enormous statues of fighting soldiers. It’s part of an exhibit on World War I.

The walk passes the Rudas Baths, one of the Ottoman survivors, before running along the Danube and the base of Gellert Hill. The Hill contains quite a few caves and shrines, but many have become the refuge of the homeless. Always sad to see human life like this.

Before you reach the baths, to your right from the complex is the entrance to the Cave Church. Is it worth your time? You betcha it is. As you enter the cave opening contains a shrine, with elevated statues of Jesus and Mary. At this point it looks like any other cave shrine. But with your admission of 600 huf, the caves, which have been extended more and more over the years take you deeper, with increasingly more interesting features. The crucifix in the main church shows a great awareness of the human body by its artist. The churches main artifact is the Black Madonna of Czestochowa, but I was somewhat more intrigued by the black eagle in the Polish Chapel. An audio guide is provided, and it’s really needed to understand the significance of much of the church.

Gellert Baths

I had booked my tickets in advance at my hotel, for 6200 huf. You can book a locker or a cabin, with the cabin easily worth the few forint more for the privacy.

The Gellert Baths opened in 1918 and form a part of the Gellert Hotel complex. As you walk through the doors, you are met by art nouveau opulence. From the broad entrance hall, to the airy foyer; its statues, balconies, and stain glass skylights catch your eye. It’s all done in a mixture of vibrant and bright colours. It would be easy to forget that you came here to relax in thermal waters, and not to gawp at the surroundings.

After walking some impossibly long corridors you arrive at the changing rooms. There is a shop after selling anything you may have forgotten such as swim hats or slippers. Trust me if you come in winter you will be glad of the slippers. The pools are as intricately decorated as the lobby, with pillars and balconies overlooking the aquamarine water. To the end of the first pool, lie a further two on each side. The furnishings here are turquoise, and the statues also add to it’s over the top elegance. Water spouts from the mouths of fish and huddling babies top arches. The decor is completely OTT and its perfect. This is where you will find those bath like 40 degree waters, saunas, and the most steam filled steam rooms I’ve ever seen. I didn’t realise I wasn’t alone for a few minutes. There are many options to expand your experience with massages but I was more than content to soak and wallow in those most beautiful of surroundings.

Getting back to my warning about those slippers. There are a few external thermal baths and even in the winter their temperature is perfect. However it’s quite the walk to get out to them, and believe me the ground is not pleasant in near zero temperatures. My bare feet did not thank me for that.

Gellert Hill

Not sure if I did it the right way around but having relaxed and chilled for the afternoon I put more pressure on those feet with a hike up the nearby Gellert Hill. It’s a great hike, and well worth a visit. If you can time it with a sunset,  you will be guaranteed a radiant display (providing there is the sun of course). There is a huge number of steps to get to the top, it’s hard to say how many as there is no definitive way with so many paths, but the increase in elevation is 235 metres. Along the way the view of the Liberty Bridge and the Danube gets better and better. The summit is crowned by the Statue of Liberty, erected by the Russians to celebrate victory in World War II, and a citadel. The hill has a chequered past, during the revolution of 1956, Russian tanks fired down into the city from this lofty position.

You should come here not for the history, but for the vista, with all five major bridges lying before you. Is it any wonder to find lovers locks on a fence, in such a romantic place. Dare I say it, this view is better here than that at the Fisherman’s Bastion. What could be better than that? Following my advice and coming here for sunset. Whilst there the sun put on one of its best light displays I have ever come across in a city. It was amazing.

It’s best to exit Gellert Hill, by heading towards Margarit Bridge. Parks are not somewhere I’m fond of being in at night. On the way you pass the Gellert Monument, constructed in honour of the saint who lent his name to the hill (he was killed by pagans who threw him from the hill), before finally winding down toward the Elisabeth bridge.

Bridges of Budapest

As mentioned before Budapest is very much a river city and five great bridges span its breath. The banks of the river are worth traversing just to see them all, but Chain Bridge is the one to beat them all. At the foot of the funicular, cast your head over your shoulder. There is a beast of a tunnel running under the castle known as Budai Varalagut. It’s opening looks like the mouth of a whale. and though a little dirty the arch like entrance is very impressive. Adam Clark the famous Scottish engineer aided in its design, but his attentions were focused on what lies in front.

The Chain Bridge (Szechenyi Bridge) is the most impressive of the bridges that cross the Danube, and it was also the first permanent bridge on the river. This suspension bridge was opened in 1849. It is best seen at night when it is illuminated but its amazing to cross by day too, and marvel at its construct. From the imposing lions that sit guard on the bridge entrance to the stone towers that break up all the wrought iron, it’s a beauty. The Pest side of the bridge greets you with the art-nouveau luxury of the Gresham Palace Hotel.

Danube River Cruise

If you don’t have the time or energy to go bridge chasing then fret not, what do all good rivers have. River cruises. And Budapest is no exception. There are a host of companies offering cruises, with dinner and nighttime cruises also available. I haven’t tried other for these, but for the day cruises I saw little difference between any of the cruises so we had picked the Legenda cruises company for no reason other than we liked their flyer and the look of the boat. They dock at dock seven. The cruises are 3900 ft for an adult and last about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Children are surprisingly free and the addition of a drink of your choice on the way out and a glass of lemonade on the way back seal a good deal.

The cruise boat had a capacity of several hundred and there was an upper deck. The cruise itself was very pleasurable and the view took in most of the city’s river side sights.  The boat sailed south as far as Petofi bridge before heading back north past Gellért, the Castle, and the main attraction that is surely the Parliament building. It’s a beautiful river and it’s another great way to see the city.  Five great bridges cross the river and the boats route sailed under all and around the 2.5 km Margarit Island. The island is the realm of the fit, joggers make full use of its circumference and activities include swimming and bike renting. Legenda cruises offer you the chance to alight and explore the island. You can make your way back to the city by yourself or wait forty minutes for the boat to return. It’s a worthwhile way in my opinion to see the city from a different angle and get some relaxation time in.

Pest

Pest is not as showy as Buda with far more locals and commercial and administrative functions. But that doesn’t make it much less than its counterpart. The secessionist architectural movement of the late 19th and early 20th Century, found great inspiration here, and some amazing buildings were constructed. The best place to start your tour of Pest is with its best, the Parliament Building.

Hungarian Parliament

No building in Budapest can quite produce the same impression as the Hungarian Parliament. In every respect it is astounding. As the largest building in Hungary and the joint tallest in Budapest, it dominates the banks of the Danube. The parliament is 96 metres tall and has a total of 691 rooms. Needless to say the tour doesn’t visit all. The parliament was constructed to mark the millennium of the Hungarian nation, and after the unification of the tri cities of Buda, Pest and Obuda to form Budapest. The building is constructed in the Gothic revival style with a huge central dome. I suggest walking around the full circumference of the Parliament, its magnificent from all angles.

Entry is by guided tour in only and costs 2400 huf. Tours in different languages are available. I’ve never been in a more secure building, armed security lurked in the corners around the perimeter, a full army platoon were based in the reception and armed guards monitored the metal detectors as you entered. Phew, I’m glad my intentions were to see the building only. Inside we were chaperoned by security, I was a little bemused by our one, he was an angry guy and kept urging people to keep moving. Needless to say that was usually me, as I dropped back to take photos.

Besides the understandable high security level, the building was a delight. Gold leaf emblazoned much of the walls of the Ornamental Stairs (40 kg was used in the construction) and the place gleamed. As we entered the central part of the building we had an opportunity to witness another changing of the guards. The royal crown of Hungary (complete with bent cross on top from the time someone dropped it) is guarded 24/7 by some more very serious looking guys. While you can photograph the guards, photos in the throne room are forbidden. The crown jewels have been stolen many times over the years and I guess its a precaution. You don’t want to take the chance with that massive security guard following you either.

The two rooms you will most want to see are the Entrance Hall and the Assembly Hall. The Entrance Hall is a symmetrical delight, of stairs and exquisite designs. Gold leaf and stain glass windows add to the delightful room. The Assembly Hall is an exact replica of the one where the Hungarian Parliament currently sits, with curved seating facing the chair. It used to be the upper house of the government before that was amalgamated with the lower.

The tour takes around 45 minutes through the parliament before finishing in the museum. The list of stats here really helps you visualise the size of the building and the sheer effort to keep the place running. Its costly being this extravagant.

On the banks of the Danube near the Parliament is the somber Jewish memorial, in memory of those lost during the holocaust. The line of shoes speaks volumes. The shoe piles in concentration camps often were the thing that made me realise the actual number of people who were lost there.

Much of the buildings near the Parliament are very impressive, such as the Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of Agriculture. However these neo-classical behemoths pale compared to the secessionist Post Office Savings Bank found nearby, its elaborate designs and colours making it one of the most unique buildings in the city. Dating from 1901 the colourful tiles of the roof are a particular highlight. It doesn’t seem possible to go inside though.

The nearby Liberty Square is convenient to walk through en-route to other attractions. The square is named after the Soviet liberation in World War II, and is lined by art-nouveau, including the US embassy.

St Istvan’s Basilica

One of the city’s main attractions is the Basilica. A behemoth of a church it is named after the first king of Hungary, Istvan or Stephen in English. It is said his right hand is held in the reliquary. The Basilica is a relatively new building, only completed in 1905. Interestingly it was built on land previously occupied by a theatre for animal fights, so a major improvement.

The church is neoclassical in style, with two twin bell towers and a huge central dome. It shares the accolade of Budapest’s tallest building with the Parliament at 96 metres tall, partially because not other building is permitted to be higher. Entry to the basilica is self-driven with no admission cost, but donations are accepted for the maintenance. The aforementioned mummified hand is the main attraction inevitably. I found the interior a little dark, but it was still easy to admire the interior of the dome. Dark tourism is alive and well. The basilica is huge, capable of holding 8500 people, and its vastness ensures great acoustics. Organ concerts can be attended each Thursday evening.

The dome itself was for me main attraction, if you are willing to climb the 364 steps to the cupola. Needless to say I was. The stairs vary in style but none are too difficult to mount. For me the winding stairs would prove one of the Basilicas most interesting features. Challenging but worthwhile, I again was fortunate enough to find myself on this viewpoint as sunset fell. With the bustling Pest below and the Budapest Eye (every city seems to have one now) the views are guaranteed to be great any time of day, but dusk was perfect.

The area to the south of the Basilica is the great epicenter of the city. Filled with stylish restaurants, it is also the high street area of the city. You can expect to find all the brands as you would in any European capital. Now shopping isn’t really my thing, but its a good place for street side cafes to grab a drink and people watch, or a glass of hot wine come winter. It’s not without its architectural sights either, the Concert Hall, Philantia Flower Shop and the below Turkish Bank were all built at the turn of the last century.

Jewish Quarter

The Jewish Quarter has become known as the trendy part of Budapest. Making up the Budapest Ghetto in the past, it is now where one goes to catch up on the latest work of Budapest’s street artists, chill in a cafe, or party the night away in its bars. It is here that the Budapest ruins bars first started. To those not in the know Ruin Bars are a huge trend here. The area suffered much damage during World War II and many buildings were left derelict and rundown. This was seized upon by local entrepreneurs who saw the potential within, and built sprawling bars within the ruins, but maintained the look within.

I visited the original ruin bar, Szimpla Kert, which opened in 2002. Set in what is a derelict factory, its a vast space. The walls are covered in scrawlings and graffiti, and even though I know that’s the image they were going for, the whole rundown thing wasn’t for me. I found their craft beer offering a little week, and when a cockroach ran up the wall beside my pint, I realised ruin bars are not my thing. I chilled out in a nearby jazz bar contemplating my lost youth. Naturally everyone needs to draw their own conclusions on these places, but perhaps I was a little too solo and sober.

I did have some great street art finds in the area so not all was lost and I returned in daylight to photograph. Two of my favourites were this leaisurely bull and the girl cowering in her house.

Dohany Street Synagogue

The Dohany Street Synagogue is famed for quite a few fortunate and unfortunate reasons. As it seats 3000 people it is the largest synagogue in Europe and the fourth largest in the world. It was constructed in the 1850’s in the Moorish revival style, drawing on influences such as the Alhambra in Spain. Naturally then its quite the building to look at, with its twin onion-domed towers complimented by a rose window, and motifs on the walls. Very much a blend of styles, it is somewhat unique. It has had a heavy influence on synagogues built afterwards.

Entry to the synagogue is 2400 huf, and security is again high. There are metal detectors at the doors. Once past this unusual security level at a place of worship, you can enter the main building. Tours run in several languages throughout the day, and you can join in and leave at any time. Just look for the flag with your preferred language on it. The tour will introduce you to the history and styles of the building, to the interesting fact that it is one of the only synagogues to have an organ (playing music is work and there is no work on the sabbath), before taking you outside and to some of the more grim history of the synagogue and the Budapest Jewish community.

The interior is designed again with very much Moorish thinking. Arcades run the length, with arches, and huge chandeliers leading all the way to the ark. The galleries hold as many people as the lower level, as at the time of construction ladies were required to sit separate from men. That rule has been relaxed.

There is a Jewish Museum outside, and the stark reminders of Nazi occupation are everywhere to be seen. The synagogue was located in the Pest ghetto, which formed the largest ghetto in Europe during World War II. The Memorial of Hungarian Jewish Martyrs, is a weeping willow, and commemorates the 400,000 Hungarian Jews who died during the Holocaust. Unusually a cemetery is also within the complex of the Synagogue, as this is not common practice. The cemetery was a consequence of the harsh winter of 1944-45, when circumstance forced its creation, as thousands died from the cold and hunger. Some 2000 people are buried in the small area. It’s a tough reminder of a brutal period in history.

Pest Architecture

Much of Pest is built up and it’s a stark cry from the polish of Buda Castle. It’s less stately with the exception of the Parliament of course but for myself, who is constantly keeping an eye out for buildings of note, Pest is simply full of them. I’ve always thought of Budapest as a blend of Paris and Barcelona, due to its impressive architecture. As one of the principal cities of the Austro-Hungarian empires, it should come as no surprise. I’ve compiled a collection of some of those buildings below for anyone as obsessive as I am.

New York Palace Cafe

Budapest is not what would one regard as being an expensive city, but sometimes a little indulgence is called for. I know I said this is a blog dedicated to sights and not to food, but I don’t regard a visit to the New York Palace Cafe as being strictly about food. Now don’t get me wrong, the cappuccino was perfect, and my chocolate cake was as indulgent as it gets. But my eyes rarely left the decor. This is why we should queue for fifteen minutes. This is why we pay 17000 huf for two coffees, two cakes, a milkshake and a water. That’s €56 according to the credit card machine.

So why so much. Billed as the most beautiful cafe in the world, I am in no position to argue. Certainly it is the most beautiful I have ever seen. The cafe forms part of the five-star New York Palace Hotel operated by the Boscolo chain. Surprisingly the hotel is very reasonable for a stay. The building was constructed by the New York Life Insurance Company in 1884, and the cafe has operated since this time. It has been recently renovated and the interior by Koraly Senyei, Gusztav Mannheimer, and Ferenc Eisenhut is exuberant. The stuccoes, frescoed ceilings, statues, chandeliers and sweeping balconies are opulence of the finest order. Marble columns and Venetian lamps add to the effect. It deserves that Palace in its title. It was worth that €56. It’s not often you can sit and dine in such surroundings, so do as I did. Treat yourself. Of course you can decide for yourself. Not all of us loved the experience.

Budapest by Night

As daylight fades, most great cities take on a new lease of life and Budapest is no exception. Its a gorgeous city by night too, and most of its main attractions glow. The Parliament again proves to be ace in the pack. The bridges, particularly chain bridge is an awesome night time sight, as are the citys churches. I’ve compiled a collection of shots from the city at night below.

Heroes Square

Heroes Square or Hosok Tere lies somewhat outside the city centre. Its reached by a 2.5km walk or more easily by a metro ride on metro M1 from the city. Its easy for me to recommend a trip out here, at any time of year, I visited in January and there was so much to see. As you arrive to the square you are greeted by the large open square, with its monuments. These were constructed for the centenary of the city in 1896, with the large column paying tribute to the seven Chieftans of the Magyars, who took their tribes to present day Hungary before forming the nation. There are two colonnades behind, lined with statues of the Kings of Hungary and great leaders of the people. Its an impressive square made more so by the two buildings which flank it, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art. I’ve yet to strike those two off my list.

But the attractions of the area are not limited to the square. Behind it lies the Vajdahunyad Castle, but more on that later. The winter landscape is transformed by the ice skating rink here, and that castle provides one amazing backdrop. Take a stroll in the City Park, its combination of lakes, willow trees, and restaurants are the perfect antidote for anyone suffering concrete overload from the city. Its easy to wile away a day out here, there are a couple of family attractions in the Budapest Zoo, and the Fovarosi Circus. Even without entering their intriguing structures within are worth walking by to admire. The zoo gateway is a beauty, also built in secession style. The Vidampark, an amusement park seems to have permanently closed.

The more appealing feature of the City Park though is the Szechenyi Baths. If you gave any of the city centre baths a miss (or even if you didn’t) then this should be 100% on your agenda. As Budapest’s largest public baths, it meets all the criteria. Most of the pools are outside though, so perhaps its more of a good weather bath. It has three large pools, plus a few smaller medicinal baths, which your 6500 huf will get you access to. Twenty minute massages are available at extra cost. Being a modern Budapest bath from the early 20th century, the baths are built in the neo-baroque style and are as over the top as you would expect. Statues and colourful surroundings greet you and the theme is maintained throughout. The Budapest Baths are an experience, and its a rich experience that you will be delighted to take home with you. Make visiting one a priority.

Vajdahunyad Castle

Vajdahunyad Castle is another attraction that was built to mark the millennium celebrations in Hungary. While it appears to be a palace-style castle, it was in fact never inhabited, and was built as part of a complex. The complex is a collection of buildings, whose purpose was to show different buildings over that millennium of Hungarian existence. The main castle is based on Hunyad Castle, which is now in Transylvania, but formed part of Hungary at the time.

You are free to explore the parklands around the castle at your own volition and I advise to do so. The architecture of the castle is very admirable, apparently it was originally built in cardboard (yes, really) before popularity convinced its transition to stone in 1904. What is seen now is the Gate Tower, a church complete with cloisters, and the main castle, which nowadays hosts the agricultural museum, the largest of its kind in Europe. A combined ticket price of 2100 huf will give access to both. As a castleaholic I wasn’t going to miss out. Admittedly I didn’t find the Gate Tower to be the most exciting, it contains a photography exhibit

.The exhibitions though and the castle itself were well worth the admission. The agricultural museum, is joined by a horse museum inside, which were both quite interesting. Admission also allows access to the roof, known as the Tower of the Apostoles, for views over the city and the estate in City Park. Upon returning down the floor plan takes you through rooms adorned with innumerate antlers, and wonderful ceilings. Perhaps I enjoyed this more but that’s me. Tours are self guided besides the r#trip to the roof, so i advise sticking your nose into every cranny to see all there is on show. When leaving the castle be sure to circle around the back towards Heroes Square as the views across the ice rink are worth it.

Summary

Naturally a complete travel guide to any city is near on impossible, as there is just so much to see and do. I will endeavor to keep adding to this as I continue to visit Budapest. For me this is the beginning, and this blog will evolve with time. However I believe I’ve covered the main city attractions and much in between, and naturally I would be more than delighted if this blog guides anyone on their way.

I welcome any constructive comments to make this blog better, or anywhere you think might benefit the blog by its addition.

Lastly, phew, I would really appreciate any shares or pins to bring this blog to a wider audience.