We at CarpeDiemEire have to admit that we love Halloween. Maybe it’s the close links to Irish culture. Maybe it’s the memories from childhood, dressed up as Darth Vader, in the shadow of a bonfire. Whatever it may be, I’ve always had a likening to ghoulish tales and ghosts stories. When better to share the best of haunted Ireland than in the spirited week itself.

Halloween in Ireland

There’s hardly a better place to focus on at Halloween. After all it’s where the idea first took hold. Many Millennia ago, it began as An Samhain, the Irish word for Autumn. An Samhain celebrated the competition of the harvest and the beginning of winter, and bonfires would be lit atop the hills around the country. This tradition continues in Ireland to this present day, with bonfires still a feature.

Trick-r-Treating is also believed to have started in Middle Ages Scotland or Ireland. Many theories surround this one, but dressing up in exchange for food was always the motive. Of course the food has been replaced by candy nowadays.

Then there’s the tradition of Jack-o-lantern’s in the window. So this story goes back to a guy called Stingy Jack. Stingy Jack invited the devil for a drink and tricked the devil into turning himself into a coin to pay for the drink. A year later the devil returned and Jack convinced him to climb a tree. Jack carved a cross in the tree, and released the devil ten years later on the condition he wouldn’t claim Jack’s soul.

When Jack finally succumbed to death, god said he wouldn’t have him in heaven. With nowhere left to go Jack was left to wander Ireland. Fearful of him, people would light a candle and place it in a turnip to scare him away, thus creating the tradition. When the Irish moved to America, they continued it with the more plentiful pumpkins.

The Most Haunted Castles in Ireland

Leap Castle – Ireland’s most haunted castle

In search of the most haunted castle in Ireland? Then look no further than Leap Castle. This midlands owner occupied castle has a turbulent history and counts about 50 ghosts as it’s residents. These include the dreaded Elemental, a ghost of sunken eyes and a transparent body, and the red lady, a menacing specter carrying a dagger and screaming. But perhaps the most unusual story is it’s other permanent residents, the Ryan’s. This family call the castle home, in full knowledge of those who they share with.

It’s a story that had to be told by itself, and I suggest you to read about Leap Castle and my own visit. The bloody chapel was one of the most unique places I’ve ever visited. Paranormal investigators and ghost hunters have a long history of seeking out spirits here.

Charleville Castle

Charleville castle is a wonderful structure outside the midland town of Tullamore. However a shadow was cast over it when in 1861 an 8 year old girl called Harriet (who was the daughter of the 3rd Earl of Charleville), decided to slide down the banister of the stairs. She lost her grip and in doing so also lost her life. She can still be felt brushing past on the stairs and at night the screams, laughter and singing of a little girl can be heard echoing in the night.

Malahide Castle

As well as being the most impressive of Dublin’s castles, Malahide Castle holds another prestigious title. Dublin’s most haunted castle. While it’s 5 ghosts can’t compare to that of Leap Castle, I think it’s enough isn’t it. There’s Myles Corbett, whose hung, drawn and quartered body is known to saunter around, only to collapse at his quartered seams. A pretty sight I’m sure.

My personal favourite is Puck, the court jester who fell in love with a lady. This was before the days of Meghan and Harry, and sadly not acceptable. Puck was stabbed outside the castle, and with his dying words, promised to haunt the castle. He is often seen in photographs of visitor. Perhaps you might find him in mine from my visit this year!

Kilkenny Castle

Kilkenny Castle is the stronghold of the Butler family for hundreds of years. Being one of Ireland’s most powerful families, allowed them to construct this stunning structure. To this day one of the Butlers still patrols her home. The White Lady that haunts this castle is believed to be Lady Margaret Butler, who lived in the 15th century. She was also the grandmother of Anne Boleyn. I guess a string of misfortune must be present on that side of the family.

Leamaneh Castle

This creepy ruin is haunted by the ghost of Red Mary. While the castle can’t be visited as it’s on private land it’s easy to visualise that haunting is a strong possibility here. It certainly looks like Ireland’s most haunted castle. Couple that with the story of Red Mary, a woman of large personality. No man or enemy stood in her way. With a string of dead husbands in her wake, she finally met her comeuppance by being starved to death in a hollowed out tree. Take a read of her full life story here, and if you wonder why she might be still here trying to bring terror, I’m worried about you.

Kilkea Castle

Kilkea Castle now operates as a stylist castle hotel, but of course it wasn’t always as such. Once upon a time it was the stronghold of the Fitzgerald Family. Their history was mostly one without incident, with the exception of one spell in the 16th century. Around this time Gerald Fitzgerald took his place at the head of the family.

This Fitzgerald was different and was believed to have practiced magic by superstitious locals. He earned himself the title the Wizard Earl. Four centuries later the Wizard Earl is said to still come riding on horseback from the nearby Curragh, on the seventh day, of the seventh month, of the seventh year. Hoping to see that sight? Then let me entice you further with my stay there in 2020.

Castle Roche

This ruin outside the town of Dundalk in Louth hides a story of deception. With the castle in a poor state, the lady of the time Rohesia De Verdon, asked a local builder to rebuild it to its former grandeur. In exchange she would marry him. Alas Rohesia had no intention of doing so. When the work was complete, the builder stood proudly before a window high up in the castle wall.

Seizing her opportunity with a little push, she ended her promise to the builder. Death has a way of doing that. Both heartbroken and body broken, the builder haunts the area under the window with his moans. The castle is in a lovely green field, and would make a lovely campsite for those brave enough.

Dunluce Castle

This beautiful and haunting ruin is one of the main attractions on the causeway coastal route in Northern Ireland. It has a fine history, first settled by the MacQuillan family around 1500. The MacDonnell’s then followed but were forced out by the English. They retaliated and climbing the cliff face to the castle, defeated the English and hung the captain. You guessed it, he’s a-haunting here now.

But he’s not alone, before you start to be concerned for him. Maeve Roe was the daughter of Lord MacQuillan, and fell in love with a rogue. Her father wanted her to marry her cousin or someone, but she wasn’t having any of it. The rogue came one night for her and they escaped by boat. Alas their elopement ended in tears, the boat capsized and though the rogues body was found, they never found that of Maeve. She haunts the castle tower with screams and wails on dark stormy nights.

Then there’s the cooks who are said to have fallen with the kitchen into the sea. Do they return to prep a ghostly banquet? Or fill the castle with the smells of venison and wild boar?

Clifden Castle

Clifden Castle is a ruin on the Wild Atlantic Way in Galway. Only built in the 19th century, it quickly fell into ruin as the famine hit Ireland in the 1840’s. Both the landlord and his tenants were devastated. The tenants gathered in the castle lawn looking for food, but sadly there was none to give. It is said they died here in horrible conditions from starvation. They can still be seen in the area, ghostly and ghastly reminders of their true selves.

Ross Castle

No this isn’t the beautiful castle set on the shores of the Killarney Lakes. It’s a far more sinister place in County Meath on the shores of Lough Sheelin. Built by Richard Nugent in 1536, he was known as the Black Baron. Presumably due to the colour of his heart! The Black Baron himself is said to haunt the place.

However the more seen ghost here is his daughter Sabrina. Falling in love with a poor Irish lad, they decided to elope by boat. Will they ever learn? This always ends in tears. So it did this time too. Sabrina survived but her love did not.

Brokenhearted, Sabrina refused to eat and locked herself in a tower till she succumbed to death. You lucky people can still spend one night in Sabrina’s room, as the castle is now a fully functional B&B. But don’t worry, she’s only searching for her lover in the tower. She means no harm.

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Carrickfergus Castle

Still standing strong in the Ulster town of Carrickfergus, this castle has had a strong part to play in Irish history. It was built by John De Courcy a Norman lord in the 12th century. It was also the landing point of William III before the instrumental Battle of the Boyne in 1690. But our story concerns Button Cap, the resident ghost, who stands guard on the walls awaiting a battle.

In life he was a great soldier who fought valiantly against the MacDonnells of Dunluce. Earning himself a sterling reputation, it all came to an abrupt end as he fell from a boat he travelled on not far from the coast. These Irish waters are a dangerous place. I guess he didn’t have enough battles in life so he seeks them in death too.

Kinnitty Castle

What better way to see if a castle is haunted than by staying in one. I recommend a long winter night, and keeping the light off, to ensure the perfect conditions. By the time the witching hour comes around you should surely be seeing something. Apparently the Geraldine and Elizabeth rooms in Kinnitty Castle in Offaly would be perfect for this. Both are known to be haunted.

The castle was rebuilt in 1929 after being burned down by the IRA, but seems to have retained its ghosts. One in particular is a monk called Hugh, who is said to communicate with an employee. Don’t be alarmed if you see that. He’s friendly and only usually appears during a celebration. Maybe he’s the original wedding crasher.

Ballygally Castle

Another castle where you can overnight in without freezing your ass off is the Ballygally Castle hotel. Located in County Antrim, its ghost has been there for 400 years. The ghost is that of Lady Isabella Shaw. When she birthed a son in to her husband Lord Shaw, he locked her in a tower of the castle. Now that’s love for you. While trying to escape she plummeted to her death.

She’s often heard walking the castle by guests, or making a racket in a room. But the hotel are confident she is a friendly one, and advise guests not to mind the green mist that sometimes envelopes the castle.

Cabra Castle

In line with my theory that every castle seems to have its own ghost story in Ireland, here’s another castle hotel with one. The life of a servant girl was a better one than one could hope for living in their own family home back in the 18th century. For some Sarah, in this case, it’s even got the opportunity for love. But when the person you fall in love with, and get pregnant by is the son of the owner, you can guarantee it’s not going to be a story of pumpkins and lost slippers in real life.

Getting wind of what happened. the family took Sarah out into the woods and hung her. So sets the scene for our haunting, and now the cries of a baby can be heard in the woods and near the hanging tree, which still stands. Guests have also reported a man dressed in full military uniform, in what was once voted the second scariest hotel in the world on tripadvisor.

Castle Leslie

There’s one more addition to the haunted castles in Ireland list that has become a hotel. Castle Leslie’s most famous room is the redrum, sorry Red Room. Believed to be a bridge between life and death, children of the Leslie family were born here, and those about to die appeared here. Consider the classic case of Norman Leslie, who appeared before Marjorie Leslie. He was reading some letters, before turning to smile at her and vanish. A day later he died on the battlefields of France in World War I. His ghost is said to still linger in the room.

Haunted houses and places in Ireland

Ducketts Grove

This mansion outside of Carlow is the very definition of a haunted house. With its towers and turrets and vast emptiness it’s perfect for a haunting. So where better place to find a banshee, the most ghastly of all Irish ghosts. The story has it that William Duckett who built the Ducketts Grove mansion in 1830, had an illicit affair with a young girl. When she suffered a horse riding accident, her mother put a piseog on the family, an ancient curse. This brought ruin to them financially and it’s how the estate eventually fell into disrepair.

There are many stories here of the dreaded wails of the banshee being heard right before the death of loved ones of the castles employees. The ghosts of the Ducketts have also been seen, as well as servants in the kitchen. Ducketts Grove really has the ghosts to back up it’s appearance. Ducketts Grove is the most haunted house in ireland, and an essential stop on a road trip to Kilkenny.

Loftus House

The story of Loftus House in Wexford is one of the more famed Irish ghost stories. Charles Tottenham invites a stranger into his house on a dark stormy night. His daughter Anne Tottenham became besotted with him. However one day as the played cards, Anne dropped one of hers. To her horror as she attempted to pick it up, she discovered the stranger had a cloven hoof. Yes you guessed it, it was old Nick himself. The devil flew straight through the roof of the house upon his discovery.

Charles was dismayed, not least because his insurance didn’t cover act of devil, but also because his daughter Anne suffered an incurable shock. She descended into madness. Left with no choice but to lock her up, she soon after died. Anne walks the floors even since that day in 1775, in anguish. Loftus House is nowadays one of the best haunted house tours in the country. The house is currently on the market, the pros are it’s own private beach, the cons being its own private ghost.

Wicklow Gaol

Billed as one of the most haunted Irish buildings, it’s no surprise as gaol’s aren’t exactly the most pleasant of places. A whole host of stories are attached to the place, and many visions have happened. These include a woman clad in a full length black velvet cloak found walking on the ground floor, a man walking from cell 19 to the end of the walkway, strange goings on in cell 13, and a whole host of other sightings. Add to that a lingering smell of apples, and a green mist that appears from nowhere, and it all adds up to a well haunted building.

Kilmainham Gaol

This is one of the best Dublin tourist attractions. Many wronged people ended up here, for petty crimes such as stealing some bread. Is it any wonder it would have a few spooks? The Gaol seems to be more the scene of a classic haunting than a particular ghost. Since it’s renovations workers profess of strange happenings like lights turning on and off, footsteps in the dark, and being knocked over by a force. Personally I would expect nothing less from a ghost.

Hellfire Club

This ominous building in the Dublin mountains, is a popular hiking area for Dubs. But it’s past is shrouded in mystery. The hunting lodge as it was originally, was built atop a cairn, an ancient burial mound. That’s a serious red flag in any horror movie. The building was sold in 1735 to a group known as the Hellfire Club.

They were outsiders from decent society, engaging in alcohol and sex in their wild parties. Sounds a bit like university to me. Less like uni was their practice of black magic and the dark arts, and their attempts to summon the devil.

Stories still spread like wildfire about them. Did they set fire to a servant girl and roll her down Montpellier Hill at the Hellfire Club? Did they after many attempts finally succeed in summoning the devil himself at this very place. Subsequently did the devil blow the roof off, as historical texts seems to corroborate?

As one of the best places to watch the sunset in Dublin, its an ideal place to test if its still haunted by hanging around as day turns to night. Though you are more likely to be another victim of the Hellfire Club while walking back down the mountain side.

The Crossroads Suicide Plot

Though it looks innocuous in this modern day with an advertising hoarding and a couple of passive benches, the crossroads at Clonliffe Road and Ballybough Road in Dublin, covers up a dark and shady past. During the 18th and 19th century it served as a suicide plot, where those that had taken their own life were laid to rest. They were not permitted to be buried on consecrated ground.

As was the practice at the time, a stake was used to transfix the bodies, to stop their unhappy souls from wandering about. Any thoughts on who this may have inspired? A certain Bram Stoker lived in nearby Clontarf.

This area was known as Mud Island at the time and had a tough reputation. Highwaymen were common, and there was much crime. One such highwayman was Larry Clinch, who met his end in 1806 after a shootout. It came at the end of a rope. His body was then left at the suicide plot for all to see. Thereafter many tales were told of a mysterious horseman riding at night down the street, believed to be the spiteful ghost of Larry.

The Brazen Head

This bar in Dublin claims to be Ireland’s oldest. A less claimed story is its ghost one. A lad by the name of bold Robert Emmet used to call this his watering hole. That is, till he was executed. Coincidently his executioner also frequented the Brazen Head. Robert Emmet can be seen lurking in the shadows, trying to find the one who wronged him. Would you stop by here for a pint of the black stuff when you travel to Dublin?

13 Henrietta Street

When I think of about a haunted tenement building in my mind, this creepy AF building is exactly what’s in there. Now derelict, this former slum was the scene of an exorcism a century ago. The woman clearly didn’t get over it too well, as her ghost can often be seen in the windows looking out. Is it any wonder it’s derelict when the owners came home to that? I know I’d be packing. I thought I saw her myself but it turned out to be a mannequin. The next time you pass I dare you to look up at the windows.

Rathmichael Cemetery Dublin

This is one that doesn’t often make haunted lists. In fact it barely makes the maps. Located a few minutes from the Dublin Mountain Way, this old cemetery dates back as far as the vikings. At its centre are the ruins of an old church and round tower. Scattered headstones tell of centuries of local residents.

However from the moment I crossed the stile a prevailing sense of dread filled me. Nature has overgrown the place, and a sense of abandonment is felt of the souls within. In the distance an animal filled the air with a scream. Was it a chicken? What’s wrong with that chicken? Was it a banshee?

I had come here not to see the graveyard, nor the church but by the promise of a skull hole. What exactly was a skull hole? My instinct pointed to the bottom part of the round tower. That or the account I had read online. As time progressed over the years, under soil movements caused the bones of some of the deceased to rise above the ground.

Rather than disturb the relations and visitors, they threw the bones in the first place they could think of to hide them. The base of the round tower. Unable to resist my curiosity, I scaled the side and looked in. Alas the bones were no more. But don’t let that take away from this haunted place. Of all on this list, it’s the one that left me with the most unease.

Charles Fort

This British fort was built to defend against attack from sea, and brought hardship to the people of Kinsale in Cork. But it was not without its own hardship within. At some point during its occupation in the 1870’s, the daughter of the Fort Commander was due to marry one of the officers. However her father shot her loved one in error, and his daughter leaped into the sea in despair. The lonely fort has since being haunted by a White Lady, the ghost of the commander’s daughter, all clad out in her wedding dress. Charles Fort is a must visit in the town of Kinsale.

Halloween is more than haunted castles and houses

I hope I’ve gotten you into the Halloween mood. If so you can continue it into the week. Love horror movies as much as I do? Then maybe I can inspire you with my list of 66 horror movies that will give you a good scare over on IMDB. I suggest after all these ghost stories you start with The Woman in Black.

If horror movies aren’t your thing, then I have just the tonic in some Halloween anthems. Take a listen to my playlist of the best spooky and fun music for this time of year,

If you want to learn more about Ireland, then you’ve come to the right place. The Ireland travel section of this blog is an excellent resource on castles, hiking, road trips, and innumerate travel tips about Ireland. Follow the link here.

Leamaneh Castle is all but a ruin today. It sits on private land near the intersection of the R476 and the R480, the road which travels through the magnificent Burren in County Clare. As it is on private land it’s not possible to enter, without the expressed permission of the owners. However there is space on the road side from which to admire it from. Nowadays it’s short a roof and only the shell remains of what it once was.

If you stand and linger long enough, it’s easy to see the sinister edge of the place. The red haired ghost of Mary is said to still haunt this place to this day. With all the blood on her hands from her life, it would come as no surprise. The ravens circling above add another dimension to this haunting ruin.

History of Leamaneh Castle

Little is known of the history of the castle before or after its famed inhabitant. The tower house on the end is said to have been built around 1480 by Toirdealbhach Donn MacTadhg O’Briain, King of Thomond. O’Brian would later surrender to King Henry VIII, to become earl of Thomond. It served its defensive purpose until the day Red Mary walked in its door.

When Red Mary moved to Leamaneh Castle in the 1640’s with her second husband Conor O’Brian, they set about creating a home of some note. The 4 storey tower was extended to become a 4 storey high gabled mansion. Large mullioned and transomed windows became a defining feature of what was one of the most splendid houses in the country during the 17th century. The decorative rather than defensive form was particularly unusual, as this was a time of much strife on the island of Ireland.

The Fall of Leamaneh Castle

Red Mary’s son Donagh, moved the family seat to Dromoland castle in 1689, and were the wealthiest and most powerful family in the area. Leamaneh fell into ruin with the years and by the 18th century was completely derelict. The barbican gates that once adorned the estate can now be seen at Dromoland (they were moved there by the Baron Inchiquin, the descendant of Mary). For an dramatic image of how it looks now, this superb video should by TheNigelCox should have your imagination racing.

How Red Mary ended up in Leamaneh Castle

Red Mary McMahon (or Maire Rua as she was known in Irish), was born in 1615 to wealth. Her father was Lord of Clonderlaw, and her mother the daughter of the third Earl of Thomond. She was known for her bright red hair, and maybe the name referenced her temperament a little too. She married Daniel O’Neylan of Dysert O’Dea Castle in County Clare. On the death of her first husband she inherited his lands and a dowry of £1000, which was in fact a substantial amount in its day. It’s then that her story starts to get interesting. After marrying her second husband, Conor O’Brien they packed up and moved to Leamaneh.

Mary and her husband were known opponents of Cromwellian rule, and they would ride out together to attack English settlers. When O’Brien was badly wounded during on attack on the Cromwellian general Henry Ireton in the battle of Inchicronan, he was taken back to the castle where he died. Mary, in knowledge that she would now forfeit her lands, rode to Limerick, where she then offered to marry any Cromwellian officer. John Cooper was the lucky (or is that unlucky) soldier who stood up. With the marriage he in fact gained great wealth, and Mary was able to retain her family’s home and power.

The history books tell us that Mary and John Cooper lived to a handsome age, and Mary gave birth to twelve children along the way. But that’s how the history books note it. Local folklore and popular belief tell a much different story.

Will the real Red Mary please stand up

So now we know the history behind the woman, what about the woman behind the history? Many, many stories abound of her cruelty and the Clare Library is a great resource on them. True or not, here’s some of the more outlandish.

A Good Wife

As Conor O’Brien returned to Leamaneh dying from his wounds, Mary is said to have thrown open her window and yelled “What do I want with dead men here”? She did nurse him in his dying moments, but after his death it wasn’t long before she was married again. Whether we put this down to an insatiable appetite for men, or a smart tactical move is open to debate.

Red Mary’s third husband John Cooper met his comeuppance when he made a comment to Mary about her previous husband. Taking offence she jumped out of bed, kicked him in the stomach and he subsequently died. Conflicting reports say he died while shaving. Perhaps she picked her time well to lay that kick. Other stories suggest he “fell” from a third floor window.

Rumour also has it that she had 25 husbands over her lifetime. After a year and a day she would divorce them. What was that I said about appetites again? Having switched to Protestantism for her third marriage, it’s not altogether impossible. Or did they indeed come to a more sinister end?

A Tough Enemy

Red Mary is said to have sent enemies over the Cliffs of Moher on horseback, where they then plummeted to their death in the sea below. The cliffs are about 20 km away, and many question if this actually happened. But a clue possibly lies in the name of the castle. Leamaneh translates as the horse’s leap. Did that name become attached before or after the time of Red Mary. We may never know but I’ll let you, the reader, draw your own conclusion.

Red Mary was known to hang the servants that displeased her. The men by their necks and the women by their hair. She is also said to have cut off the breasts of the women.

A Deserving End to Red Mary

Mary obviously crossed too many people in her time, as she finally met her demise when her enemies rounded and buried her alive in a hallowed out tree. Whether the tree stood at Leamaneh or at the nearby Carnelly near Clare Castle is the subject of much speculation. It is said that the ghost of Mary haunts both. I wouldn’t put it past her; she seemed formidable. Personally I wonder how you bury someone in a tree? Her red haired ghost is said to still walk the floors of the castle. Perhaps it’s the reason why it was left to fall into ruin.

Have I piqued your curiosity in haunted castles? Then Leap Castle should be on your itinerary. With around 50 ghosts in attendance its sure to send a chill down your spine. Especially on the self guided tour. Read my experience of Leap Castle here.

Looking for accommodation in Clare? Booking.com is always a safe bet. Using the link below might help me update my face mask collection. This post contains affiliate links, which means I may subsequently receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support. Best to zoom out.

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This tourist attraction is quite unlike any others I’ve visited in Ireland. In fact it’s possibly unlike any I’ve visited in the world.

I visited Leap Castle mostly by accident. I knew previously of its existence and a little of the story behind it. But as chance would have it, while I was travelling around the area on a road trip some months back , I found myself within a few miles of it. As it would turn out, it would prove to be the unexpected highlight of this pandemic road trip.

Visiting Leap Castle

Leap Castle is located in County Offaly between the towns of Roscrea and Birr. It’s about 1 hour and 45 minutes from Dublin, Cork and Galway. A real middle of nowhere place, as you can see on the map below. Don’t expect a bus stop outside, it’s only reached by car and GPS. Even then it’s hard to recognise from the road.

If you are looking for accommodation in the area, booking.com is always a safe bet. Using the link below might help put petrol in my car. This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support. Best to zoom out.

As I pulled up outside the gate house of the castle I couldn’t even tell if it was open. I parked the car in on the hard shoulder and walked inside, in the unexpected hope that I could visit. My hopes weren’t high as all looked deserted. Just then an elderly gent walked out from a cottage. My first impressions were that he appeared a little like a Druid, with a long grey beard, and a unruly mane. Was I trespassing in his home? I apologised if I was being an imposition and asked if the castle was open. To my surprise, an offer to take me to see it was the reply.

Sean Ryan

As I turned out I was in his home. The gentleman I met was Sean Ryan, who along with his wife and children called Leap Castle home. I was quite startled to hear this, having only heard of the ghost stories of the house. Most people flee in the face of this. Not Sean Ryan.

Sean took me into the castle. The first thing that caught my eye was the rather intriguing knocker on the door. It suggest one enters at their peril. To my further surprise the room that followed was far more homely than I expected. Logs crackled in a large hearth to the left. The walls and tables were a ramshackle collection of memorabilia. They screamed life not death. This room was Sean’s family’s living room. With that Sean stirrer the wood in the hearth and took a seat by the fire, as he has done for the last 25 years.

We instantly sparked up a conversation. He asked me my interest in the place, and rather than blurt out about the castles infamous history I conservatively said I had read some stories online. With that Sean then took to telling me the castles history. Throughout my unusual visit, the subject of ghosts or spirits never came up, and all I have garnered about this has come from online sources, predominantly the castles own website.

The History of Leap Castle

Instead Sean spoke of the text book history. This bloody history alone is sufficient to conclude something isn’t quite right in the place. Imagine a poltergeist in a haunted house with a pet cemetery all built on a native burial ground. Now you’re on the right track! The castle was built by the O’Carroll’s in the 15th century. The O’Carroll’s were known as a viscous people, who wouldn’t let anyone stand in their way to get power. And so it would be for the time that they controlled the castle. They left a trail of blood and murder that is still felt to this day by the castles other inhabitants.

Their 150 years in charge were a turbulent one. John O’Carroll was the first prince of Ely. Over the years no fewer than seven of the O’Carroll’s were murdered for this title. Half of them in fact by other O’Carroll’s. Eventually they conceded the castle to the Darby’s in 1667. The Darby’s would live here until a faithful night in 1922 when the IRA would come calling to burn the castle interior. The Darby’s has reputedly being tough landlords, and the castle therefore represented a symbol of British rule.

The Ryan’s

Sean explained to me that he purchased the castle in 1991, and set out to fully renovate it. A complete shell at the time, all that was before me was from his own private collection, much of which was collected from around the world. Sean had spent his life as a traditional Irish musician which had took him to far flung places. A sculpture of a king stood out- it was the bow of a ship brought back from the Philippines. Amazing how it fit so well in the surroundings of an Irish Castle. Sean had added a conservatory overlooking the lands to the east, and it added a breath of fresh air to the otherwise musky surroundings.

The Many Ghosts of Leap Castle

Of course so far I’ve left out the bit so far about the ghosts. And there are oh so many. How many places can count 50 ghosts as their permanent residents? The Ryan’s and Mildred Darby (who lived here during the late 19th century) have kept a good account of this sightings. Mildred Darby was known to perform seances and it is believed this may have led to increased activity in the castle. Since it has allowed visitors there have been several sightings, and innumerate reports of people feeling a presence passing by them. To date it has featured on two TV shows, Ghost Adventures and Most Haunted, both looking to capture that unique atmosphere possessed within.

Haunted Chapel

The first is the priest. Two of the O’Carroll brothers once contested the right to be next chieftain. One day while one of them Thaddeus O’Carroll was saying mass in the chapel on the castles top floor, the other brother Teighe stormed in and murdered him on the altar. His ghost is still said to inhabit the chapel, or the spiral staircase below. There have been many reports of a bright light shining from the chapel, even after the castle had been burned.

Mildred Darby recounts a story of how as she woke one morning a stone cold hand grasped hers. Whatever it was then collapsed in an agonising string of prayers. She also wrote of how a blood stain in the floor couldn’t be washed away.

Red Lady of Leap Castle

Perhaps the most famous of all is the Red Lady. It was she that drew a number of supernatural and ghost hunting shows to the castle. A tall figure, emanating light, she is known to walk the corridors, in a red cape holding a dagger menacingly in her hand. Imprisoned and raped by one of the O’Carroll’s she was said to have given birth to a baby. The baby was murdered by the O’Carroll’s and in grief she soon after took her own life with the same dagger. A jarring cold is said to precede her appearance. Bring a coat just in case.

Priests House

The priests house which adjoins the castle was never refurbished since the Ryan’s moved in. It is an empty shell of what it once was. But in the day of the Darby’s a heavy shadow hung over the place. A peasant man pushing a barrel up a stairs is one of the apparitions. A monk, of unknown past is said to often pass through one window, before leaving through another. It was also said that those sleeping there, would often feel a heavy weight atop them. A weight that was said to have snored. Now that’s the stuff to give you nightmares.

The Captain

The third of the Darby’s to inhabit Leap Castle was a Captain Jonathon Darby. He was said to have buried the family treasure throughout the estate of the castle. However a charge of treason saw him imprisoned in Dublin. He escaped the sentence of being hung drawn and quartered and was released some years later, but the experience took its toll and he couldn’t recall where he had hidden the treasure. The secret was taken to the grave and beyond, as his ghost still searches for that lost treasure.

McMahon Clan

On several occasions while engaging in a battle the O’Carroll’s were said to hire men. Rather than pay them they would take them back to the castle and Murder them. Soldiers from the McMahon clan, another Irish tribe from Monaghan aided in a battle against the earl of Tyrone. As they slept at night after a celebration in the castle, they had their throats slit. These soldiers are said to haunt the castle Great Hall.

Emily and Charlotte

Emily and Charlotte were two little girls who lived here during the 1600s. Tragedy struck when Emily fell from the battlements of the castle. Many stories over the years recount seeing a girl falling from the battlements only to disappear before she hits the ground. The ghosts of the girls are often seen playing, laughing, and crying in the main hall, Sean Ryan’s family’s living room.

But wait, there’s more

I’ve been to castles with ghosts before but it seems Leap Castles’ list of ghosts is endless. A woman that was murdered in the castle is known to appear, scream and then disappear again. Then there’s the governess who was the minder of the aforementioned Emily and Charlotte. An old man, dressed in green is also commonly seen in the main hall, sometimes warming himself by the fire as Sean Ryan was during my visit. The old man is often accompanied by a woman in old fashioned dress and a large head-dress, and another old man dressed like a priest.

Oubliette

In the walls by the church an 8 foot deep hide was built, to store things or hideout during an attack. But the O’Carroll’s found their own sadistic use for it. It became an oubliette, which translates as “to forget” from French. They would throw their enemies into the hole, where horrifically the walls of the castle would become their permanent prison and final resting place. The O’Carroll’s would then simply forget about them.

In the 16th century 39 members of the O’Neill clan are said to have helped the O’Carroll’s in a battle, but had their throats cut at a celebratory feast in true family style. They were all thrown into the oubliette. When the Darby’s later renovated they took 3 cart loads of bones from the oubliette, suspected to be around 150 bodies. A ghost is said to still live in the Oubliette, as seen by Sean Ryan. It is also postulated that the moving of the bodies awoke a sinister spirit known as the Elemental.

The Elemental

The Elemental is an entity said to have been drawn to the house by the sheer number of incidents here. But there are other theories. The Wizard Earl of Kilkea Castle is one suspect, with the suspicion being that he put a curse on Leap castle. Others believed that the castle is built on an ancient druid site, where the dark arts were practiced.

The urban dictionary describes an elemental as “An apparition or entity that cannot be fully perceived is called an elemental or elemental ghost. Something that moves too fast for the human sensory range is perceived as a blur and cannot be seen clearly due to its rate exceeding the frequency where it will properly be perceived.”

Mildred Darby’s seances and occult practices may have led her to the discovery of the oubliette, and in addition the awakening of the Elemental. It was her that witnessed this dark spirit mostly, and is thus best described in her own words in a not too familiar publication nowadays, the “Occult Review”.

Mildred Darby and the Elemental

“Suddenly, two hands were laid on my shoulders. I turned round sharply and saw, as clearly as I see you now-a grey ‘Thing’, standing a couple of feet from me, with it’s bent arms raised as if it were cursing me. I cannot describe in words how utterly awful the ‘Thing’ was, it’s very indefinableness rendering the horrible shadow more gruesome. Human in shape, a little shorter than I am, I could just make out the shape of big black holes like great eyes and sharp features, but the whole figure-head, face, hands and all-was grey-unclean, blueish grey, something of the colour and appearance of common cotton wool. But, oh! so sinister, repulsive and devilish. “

“The thing was about the size of a sheep, thin, gaunt and shadowy in parts. It’s face was human, or to be more accurate, inhuman, in it’s vileness, with large holes of blackness for eyes, loose slobbery lips, and a thick saliva-dripping jaw, sloping back suddenly into its neck! Nose it had none, only spreading, cancerous cavities, the whole face being a uniform tint of grey.”

“It’s lustreless eyes, which seemed half decomposed, and looked incredibly foul, stared into mine, and the horrible smell which had before offended my nostrils, only a hundred times intensified, came up to my face, filling me with a deadly nausea. I noticed the lower half of the creature was indefinite and seemed semi-transparent-at least, I could see the framework of the door that led into the gallery through its body.“

Undoubtedly no spirit has had such a profound and disturbing affect by its appearance to people in the castle as the Elemental. The castles website tells a frightening story of the interactions with this entity too.

My own tour of the haunted Leap Castle

After Sean had brought me up to speed with the movements of the castle over the years, he subsequently invited me to explore the chapel on the top floor. We exchanged €6, the price Sean asks for the privilege to tour his home. Then came the moment I didn’t expect. Sean handed me a torch and beckoned to a door leading to a spiral staircase. Did this mean what I expected? I had to visit possibly the world’s most haunted castle…

I of course couldn’t let down my curious side. So on I went. Sean advised that the torch was necessary on the dark stairs just to navigate. Oh great. He also asked that when I was coming back if I could be sure to padlock the church door behind me. Which made me think and wonder. What was he looking to keep out exactly?

The spiral staircase was lit at the bottom but as it ascends the light thrown is less and less. A number of closed doors and unusual objects set the mind racing as one climbs. A loose stone step then caused my heart to skip a beat. I climb further now fully relying on the torch to show the way. Spooky is an understatement. Finally I reached the padlocked door of the chapel.

Entering the haunted chapel of Leap Castle

Drawing the bolt back the door creakily opened on to the church floor. I perhaps saw now why the door was padlocked. This floor is open to the elements, a step too far in Sean Ryan’s renovation so far. He tells me later that 2020 was to have been the year for that. Another victim of the year that was in it. For now though the chapel provides another fascinating side to this eerie place.

The chapel is but a shell of what it once was. The windows are without glass; one could easily step through and plummet to the ground far below. That strange thought crossed my mind, perhaps a psychological bi-product of the place I now stood. Staring back at the door I walked through, I sincerely hoped no one padlocked me in this creepy place of notorious history.

The chapel had a few more features that filled my mind with intrigue. One window overlooked the ruins of the priests house. It looked a particularly forlorn place with some crows circling above adding to that feeling. No monks crossed my field of vision though. To one shadowy side of the chapel a spiral staircase led downwards. There was no apparent destination and I dared not explore. On the other side lay a trap door, the presumed top of the famed oubliette. I took care to back away, it has claimed enough victims with the years.

My own personal “What was that?” experience

I returned downstairs, completely exhilarated by my experience (without any unearthly appearances), taking care to lock the chapel and all that it holds within, out and away from the Ryan family.

Back in the Main Hall came the moment I can’t explain though. As Sean and I spoke about the current predicament in Ireland, a noise resembling a voice suddenly interrupted our conversation. We both glanced in the direction but no one was visibly there. I turned back to Sean and he resumed the conversation as if nothing had happened.

Was this the reaction of a man too used to seeing and hearing the unexpected? Was there a rational explanation such as another family member being in the castle? Or had I too had an experience of the supernatural, as so many visitors and inhabitants before had done? I never asked Sean what it was. I’ve always been a good judge of character and emotion simply by watching the face of a person. And in Sean’s face I saw the tells that’s it was a question that was indeed best left unasked. And so it became another thing left unsaid. Shortly after I left, never to know…

Travel Insurance on the Halloween Trail

Thinking of visiting some of the haunted castles in Ireland? Then I can definitely recommend travel insurance. Stories of peoples hair turning pure white are uncorroborated, but it’s best to protect that beautiful mane of yours.

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The castle is quite close to the M7 motorway and there are only a few country roads to overcome before arriving at its gates. The entrance is precisely what you want it to be for an estate of this grandeur. The gates are open wide and welcomingly and both entrances have immaculate gatehouses. From there it’s a drive through rows of birch trees, with the expansive golf course beyond. Then the battlements of the castle loom into sight, all 800 years of it. It’s a stone monstrosity, as any beautiful castle is.

We arrived early in the day, around noon, not with the intention of checking in but to meet Reamonn the business development manager of Kilkea Castle. I had reached out to the castle after making a booking, and they agreed to work with us. Part of that was an introduction to the castle by Reamonn, a tour, and a full lowdown on the history of the castle. Sweet.

While this blog was produced as a result of a collaboration with Kilkea Castle, all views expressed are my own. 

The History of Kilkea Castle Kildare

The castle was built in 1180 by Hugh DeLacey, who seems to have built half the castles in Ireland. Obviously he had a knack for it. This one he built for Walter de Riddlesford a knight from the Norman invasion. It would soon become the stronghold of the Fitzgerald family for 740 years, from the 12th century on. As probably the most powerful house in the country, their influence and legacy is well known in Ireland. The castle was situated on a 1200 acres estate right on the border of the area known as the Pale, which was controlled by the British. Frequent attacks and looting by the maniacal Irish was a way of life for the residents.

The castle was also the location of the first ever Irish Parliament. Kilkea Castle vies with Malahide Castle (whose history you can read via the link) for the accolade of oldest inhabited castles in Ireland. In some ways their stories are not dissimilar. The last Earl of Kilkea Castle sold the property in 1963, and moved to Australia. It has operated as a hotel pretty much ever since.

Of all the castles residents one in particular stands out. The 11th Earl of Kildare, Gerald Fitzgerald, or as he is more commonly known, the Wizard Earl, was an interesting character. He was the half brother of Silken Thomas, who rebelled in 1534 against the crown and marched on Dublin, for which he was beheaded in 1538. Anyway back to the Wizard Earl, whose intriguing story started from youth.

Wizard Earl of Kilkea Castle

The Earl was known for having a pet monkey, which later became the symbol of the castle. His close bond with the monkey was shown, when the earl attended a party at the nearby Woodstock Castle in Athy. Most likely during a round of flaming sambucas, the castle caught fire, and the Earl was trapped. Seven knights failed and died in their attempts to save him. When all was seemed lost, the monkey appeared at the door carrying the Earl to safety. If you think this sounds a little far fetched, then cast your mind back to the end of Gulliver’s Travels. Isn’t all fiction based on strange fact somewhere along the line.

His story got stranger from here. Yes really! After some time travelling Europe he found himself in Renaissance Italy. After mixing with the Medicis and studying arts he was said to have then dabbled in alchemy. Possibly even mixology. Its from this the mystery surrounding him grew and the moniker the Wizard Earl became attached. Perhaps it’s because he was said to be highly intelligent and studied arts. That was close to witchcraft for common folk back then too.

The Wizard Earls story ends on a superstitious note too (of course it had to). Said to have vanished into thin air, the Earl reappears every 7th year, on the seventh day of the seventh month, and rides with 7 knights from the nearby Curragh to the castle. I’m a little more sceptical about this one.

The Modern Day Kilkea Castle

Kilkea castle is now under American ownership, and the owner Jay Cashman has shown a real determination to take the castle back into the elite. With a €35 million investment over the last decade, it’s very visible. The castles rooms are divided into three distinct sections, from one of 11 classical and uniquely styled bedrooms of the castle itself, to a more modern Carriage Bedroom of the courtyard, or a family friendly self catering lodge bedroom near the golf club. Booking direct via the Kilkea Castle Website is recomended.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Our Tour of Kilkea Castle Kildare

Following our captivating look into the castles history, Reamonn took us through the floors of the castle, and it’s grounds. Even in these difficult times the castle is striving to provide the excellent service it always has. We had begun our tour in the Keep, a snug, warm and homely area where the castles bar is found. It was a breezy and chilly July day in Ireland and the cappuccinos by the snug hearth were a welcome tonic.

The castles two main dining areas are Restaurant 1180 (dinner and breakfast) and the Drawing Room which hosts afternoon tea. We would indulge in that later, but with a very different Kilkea Castle slant on things. Throughout the building keep an eye out for the monkeys, the family symbol often appearing in random places.

The hotel has expanded well beyond the castle, as far as the stunning ballroom, and meeting room with its impressive audio visual set up. Beneath the area is the spa, with multiple treatment rooms, and its small but stunning relaxation pool. Covid restrictions mean that the sauna and steam room remain currently closed. The spa and hotel use Elemis beauty products throughout, We would return here later for some treatments compliments of the hotel. Check this link to their site for the full list of treatments.

Our Room at Kilkea Castle

Our upgraded room was in the castle itself. The castle bedrooms take their names from the characters who left an impression on the building over the centuries. Our room was the Lady Elizabeth Grey room, who was the mother of the Wizard Earl, stepmother of Silken Thomas, and sister of Leonard Grey. The latter had crushed Silken Thomas’ rebellion and had him sent to London, where he was executed. And I thought my family had issues.

The first thing that struck us as we entered was the wallpaper. Flowery and bright we would never have it in our home. Here, it was absolutely perfect. A large decorative mirror hung on the wall, that you can imagine the Lady Grey admiring herself in. The king size bed was of course the focus of the room. The bed was a little bare, but this was a relief as in covid times less is more. The hotel is currently running at 50% guests occupancy to ensure a higher standard of cleaning too.

As this was the castle proper, the windows were set deep in the castles walls. There was enough room to fit in an arm chair and foot rest in the space. Just to give you an idea of the thickness of the walls. Those windows overlooked the old church and golf courses, and the views were splendid. The bathroom was snug but had bath and shower, and those aforementioned Elemis cosmetics.

The room is also equipped with modern conveniences such as flat screen TVs and the free wifi has good bandwidth.

The Stunning Castle Grounds

The castle grounds are dominated by its golf course, but if like us your idea of a walk doesn’t involve swinging a club, then there’s still quite a bit to see. A river flows through the grounds and formed a natural defensive boundary for the castle lawns. Those lawns are the primary focus of any pleasant stroll. Formal rose gardens give way to plush green lawns. A pergola to the side is rich in the fruit of apple trees. Beyond are the herb gardens of the castle, whose produced is used within its kitchens.

Looking deeper there is more to see. Statues peep from behind bushes in the gardens. Then there’s the castle. Besides it’s obvious traits, looking deeper brings its own rewards. The walls contain some notable carvings, the most notorious of these being the evil eye stone. This depicts a sexual act between man and beasts, which no doubt brought terror to those looking to bring harm to the castle. The evil eye stone can be found about the Baun entrance.

On the edge of the golf course an old medieval church lies in what is the wildest part of the estate. I took a wander inside naturally. This graveyard is the final resting place of many of the Fitzgeralds. A hunt will bring up more of those carved medieval stones, with a monkey stone being the most vivid. One of my most endearing finds was the gravestone dedicated to Jessie (which i found laying under a tree), whom I presume to be a dog who left us 1893. The poem mourning his loss will touch even the hardest of hearts.

Further afield from the castle

Of course to truly appreciate the castles history it’s worth exploring the areas nearby. The village of Kilkea is at the gates to the estate and it’s classic stone houses, school and buildings would not look out of place in the English countryside. Oddly I couldn’t find a pub. I guess it still relies on the castle, but these days to quench a thirst, rather than for protection.

The large country town of Athy is the nearest one to Kilkea and is certainly worth a wander due to its relevance to the Kilkea story. It’s here you’ll find Woodstock Castle, the scene of the heroic monkey story. It’s not all there is to Athy, the river Barrow ensuring it has historical significance. Whites Castle is a large tower house that was built to guard the Crom a Boo bridge. But the towns finest building is the Athy courthouse, an 18th century architectural marvel which seems at odds with all around it.

Kilkea Castle is not far from the motorway from Dublin to Cork. It’s an under appreciated road and perfect for a historical road trip. Take a look at my suggestions on how to enjoy the trip best from Dublin to Cork.

Sampling the Hotel Facilities

We spent most of our time soaking up the castle atmosphere though. Sometimes you travel to a destination and stay nearby. Sometimes where you stay is the destination and there’s nothing else you could possibly need.

Kilkea Castle, when all is in full swing is one of those places. The castle works with a whole host of local suppliers to provide falconry, archery, clay pigeon shooting, off-roading, equestrian and fishing. On top of the tennis and golf courses. Unfortunately the curse of 2020 has limited the provision of most of these, while a safe working environment is put in place. The golf course was in full swing though and there was a regular racket coming from the tennis courts.

Kilkea Castle were kind enough to offer us a half hour massage each and after the trials of 2020 it was just what we needed. Beata opted for a hot stone massage while I went the more traditional route. The precautions taken by the spa staff were very intensive to ensure the safety of all customers. The pool can only be used by those due in for treatments, for social distancing purposes. Despite all this the treatments were of a high grade. The option to choose your grade of massage impressed me. I bypassed gentle and normal, and settled on firm rather than deep tissue. Firm it most certainly was. Emma my masseuse was excellent and the 30 minutes were the most relaxing I had in months.

Dining In at Kilkea Castle Kildare

When we booked our stay Ireland was only coming out of lockdown. It would be our first stay away. This was something new for the hotel too. At that time they were only serving food in Hermione’s restaurant in the golf club house near the lodges. When the hotel called to offer a 3 course dinner for €25 per person, we jumped at the chance.

The restaurant was open by the time we stayed, but we stuck by our original plan. Hermione’s was also where we ended up following our tour. We had a relatively light lunch, of chicken wings, chips and a Caesar salad for Beata. All were exceptionally tasty and gave us an idea of what we could expect from dinner.

We returned that evening for our pre-booked dinner at 8pm. This time I sampled the delicious Caesar Salad as a starter, before we both opted for the sirloin steak and Lemon Tarts as dessert. It was perfectly accompanied by a nice bottle of Argentinian Malbec, and we received excellent service from Ryan throughout the evening.

We did find ourselves in the castle restaurant for breakfast the following morning, but we decided against being too gluttonous for fear of ruining our foodie main event.

…and Dining Out- A Picnic at Kilkea Castle

As I said Kilkea Castle do afternoon tea with a twist. And what a twist it is. Provided it’s booked in advance, you can have your afternoon tea all wrapped up in a wicker basket and it comes with a blanket to boot. Then all you have to do is find a nice tree, or our preference, the beautiful castle lawn. Is there a better way to enjoy that view?

What a spread they fit into that basket! There are a few picnic options and we choose the lighter one without the Prosecco. Inside there was 7ups, water, two types of sandwiches, scones, muffins, macaroons, lemon tarts, Oreo cakes (takes a breath), pears, apples and strawberries. Oh and some of those branded Kilkea Castle chocolates. To be honest we were still polishing it off a few days later.

While the food was great, the real pleasure here was in the experience of the picnic in the garden. It will remain our fondest lasting memory of our stay. Memories like this are what Carpediemeire is all about.

Kilkea Castle Kildare was one of our finest staycation experiences in Ireland. To stay in an environ so rich in Irish history, and with such luxury was wonderful. It’s one not to be missed by tourists, or Irish alike.

Have you ever stayed in a Castle hotel? Tell me your experiences in the comments.

While most visitors to Dublin, factor in a visit to Dublin Castle, the fact is they missed out on Dublin’s best if it’s the only castle they visit. Malahide Castle ranks top in Dublin city for a whole host of reasons. Ten in fact, which I’ll happily elaborate on now.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

But before you can enjoy the best of Malahide Castle, you do of course need to get there.

How to get to Malahide Castle

Located in the superb village of Malahide, Malahide Castle is easiest reached by Dart. Dart, Dublin’s light rail system will take you from Tara Street or Connolly Station to the village in just over 20 minutes. What’s more it will throw some coastal scenery as a bonus. A return day ticket will cost €6.25, unless you decide to not ever leave. Then a single is €3.30, and you’ve picked a good place to settle down. Twenty minutes walk, much of it through the Malahide Park, and you’ll have reached your destination.

Alternatively the castle is 17 kilometres from the city centre by road, which can take you anywhere from 30 minutes to drive, depending on the time of day. It’s only 8 kilometres or 12 minutes from Dublin Airport, if you simply can’t wait to visit once you land. There is a substantial amount of parking available.

Alternatively, take one of the tours offered by Get Your Guide.

How to Visit Malahide Castle

Malahide Demesne can be wandered around to a certain extent for free, but to see its real attractions you will need to purchase a ticket. As part of the Shannon Heritage run group of historic properties in Ireland, you can guarantee a memorable experience. A €12 admission fee allows access to the fairy trail, walled gardens, butterfly house and to guided tours of the interior of the castle. The castle tour takes around 45 minutes, and with interior lifts, is suitable for those of limited mobility. Purchase your Malahide Castle tickets in the visitor centre before going to the castle. You can also book tickets online at a reduced rate. Alternatively annual membership for Malahide Castle and the nearby Newbridge House can be purchased, priced at €60 for adults, or €95 for a family of four. See the Castle Website for more details.

Reasons to visit Malahide Castle

1. Revel in 800 Years of History

Malahide Castle was the private family home of the Talbot Family for nearly 800 years. Richard Talbot, a knight who served Henry II on his campaign in Ireland during 1174, was granted the lands around Malahide. From 1185 onward, this became their home, with parts of the castle dating to the late 12th century. Of course it took time to become the beauty it is today. In 1400 the keep like section that includes the Great Hall was added, before expanding further in 1475. The towers were only added in the 19th century. The castle was the most secure in Dublin at this time.

The most turbulent period of Malahide Castle history, was during the 1600’s. From 1649-1660, Oliver Cromwell left his mark, by ejecting the Talbot’s, and installing Myles Corbet, the Lord Chief Baron of Ireland in their place. In 1690 following the Battle of the Boyne, 14 members of the family perished, on the side of King James II.

The last Talbot to call the house home was Lord Milo Talbot. On his death in 1973, his sister sold the castle to the Irish state, before settling in Tasmania. The long lineage of the Talbot family ended with her death there.

2. Take the Malahide Castle Tour

The tour of the castle interior ranks as one of the best in Ireland, recounting stories of the furniture, building, art, former residents and even those that wouldn’t leave, the ghosts. It starts and ends in the 16th century oak room, a glorious paneled room, with carvings in the aforementioned wood. This includes six carved panels depicting biblical scenes. These carvings are based on Raphael’s frescoes in the Vatican. This art extends the rest of the furniture here, all decorated in minute detail. The fireplace is styled with Egyptian Motifs. Large latticed oak room windows light the room and look out onto the front lawns.

From here the tour moves room by room as most tours do. The upper floors bedrooms are still lavishly laid out as period bedrooms featuring four bolster beds, and you will surely take delight in the children’s room with the 19th century toys. On each end is a large turret, one of which features a set of portraits.

Back downstairs the drawing room is distinguished by a distinct orange terracotta wall colour, that became known as Malahide Orange. Stuccoed ceilings add to the rooms splendor, and depict exotic birds and animals. Then cringe at the confidante sofa; imagine your first date with your mum and mother-in-law listening in on your every word. The stuff of nightmares.

The Great Hall dates from 1475, and its walls contain many portraits on lend from the National Gallery. A large painting of the battle of the Boyne dominates it though. Running it’s length, is a large dining table which has come from Powerscourt House, and you will get a feel for the many dinner parties the room played host to.

3. Stroll Through and Admire Malahide Castle Gardens

But the fun doesn’t have to end at the castle. The grounds are set over 260 acres. Naturally they reflect modern times, with paved walks, and golf courses making up some of Malahide Park. But there are also many remnants of the past, thankfully.

The Botanic Gardens are a 20th century addition to the area. Lord Milo Talbot was an expert botanist, and his travels around the world allowed him to take back many plants from the Southern Hemisphere to cultivate here. In total there are over 5000 specimens in the botanic gardens. The gardens include a rose garden, and seven glasshouses in total, with a Victorian conservatory being the best of them. Also within the gardens is an old watch tower.

Malahide abbey is a ruin in the grounds located between the castle and the visitor centre. Though not open to the public, the impressive ruin can be circled. This church dedicated to St Silvester is from the 15th century. You’ll also find a few curious Sheila-na-gigs here. I wont elaborate on what they are.

The west lawn of the castle is a 20 acre area, ideal for a stroll, and a great place from which to admire the castle. You can also take the little ones here, and follow the fairy trail. The west lawn plays host to the Malahide Castle Concerts. A whole host of excellent bands have belted it out here over the last few years, including The Cure, Mumford and Sons and Snow Patrol, and 2021 will feature Lewis Capaldi and The Killers.

4. Hunt for the Malahide Castle Ghosts

The Malahide Castle ghost story counts five ghosts that are said to haunt the building (every castle has one of course, but five is a bit much).

Puck

The best story tells of Puck. Puck served as the court jester in the 1500’s. Puck was supposedly short on stature but big in heart, and fell for the Lady Elenora Fitzgerald, whom he watched from the gallery of the Great Hall. The tale didn’t end happily ever after for poor Puck though.

Conflicting reports said he either hanged himself from the disappointment, or was killed for overstepping his mark. His dying words were a vow to haunt the castle, and the apparition of a figure wearing a jesters costume has been seen many times since in the gallery above the Great Hall and the turrets.

Lady in White

Another intriguing ghost is the woman in white (why are they always in white). This specter is an unknown in the castle’s history, but it is said that a painting of her clad in white hung in the Great Hall. There were several reports of her leaving it and having a walk around the castle (that’s original though). Unsurprisingly they got rid of the painting (I would have), but the lady lingered on.

Myles Corbet

Then there’s Myles Corbet. Remember him. Before he usurped the house from the Talbot’s, his was the final signature on the death warrant of Charles II of England. That of course came round to haunt him and signed his, as he was later captured, hung, drawn and quartered. So all four parts of him, intact, in turn returned to haunt the castle.

5. Shop and dine at Avoca Malahide Castle

If the castle isn’t enough for you, then perhaps the presence of an Avoca will tilt you over the edge. Avoca, for those who don’t know is a near 300 year old Irish institution. From subtle beginnings as handweavers in a Wicklow mill, they now stand as a brand of quality, and are found throughout the country. Avoca is said to be one of the oldest manufacturers in the world. To pick up an excellent souvenir of your visit to Ireland look no further than Avoca.

Avoca also has another side to it, and the one that excites me more is the food side. Malahide features a cafe and for good honest fare with a modern twist, Avoca’s pedigree is as good as anywhere. A perfect example to this is the chicken and mushroom pie (served with 3 salads) that enticed me. Doesn’t that look good. Tasted even better.

6. Get a little unnerved by the moving picture

For all the magnificent art on show, perhaps this one stands out more than all. To the bottom of the stairs that leads to the bedrooms is a portrait featuring young Milo and Rose. As you move around the room or up the stairs, the eyes of the children move with you, and never stop staring. It’s a unique illusion by the artist. Or is it? Could there be even more ghostly going’s on here. Are the castles final residents still with us, overlooking their families interests?

7. Marvel at the castles peacocks

Because they are peacocks. Every good castle needs to have peacocks and Malahide is no exception. As birds go, you’ll find none prettier or more magnificent in Ireland.

8. Flutter around Ireland’s only Butterfly House

Who doesn’t love butterflies? As this is the only Butterfly house in Ireland it’s also unique. There are over 20 species inside, and some are huge. Its fascinating to watch them fly from plant to plant within, all dressed up in their fantastic colours.

9. See the Model Railway Museum

Now known as the Casino Railway exhibit, this attraction was once located in the castle and known as the Fry Model Railway. Now it has found a new home as of 2020. The new home is perhaps as big an attraction as the exhibit (unless trains are your thing), sited in the Casino house, which was once a hunting lodge of the Talbot Family. It dates from 1750, and is a stunning two floor thatched cottage, built as a cottage orne. Cottage orne was a style that looked to take people back to a more natural way of living. With the movement of the exhibit, the house was restored back to its original magnificence.

The Model Railway Museum showcases the collection of Cyril Fry, a famed Irish collector, who hand crafted the marvellous models on show. From an early age Fry had an interest in trains, and went on to work as an engineer with the rail service. Over his career he created 350 models of actual trains, all of them correct to scale. After his death the models were sold to Dublin Regional Tourism, and got the audience they deserved with the opening of the museum. The museum can be visited for €7.50 and tickets may be booked online at https://www.modelrailwaymuseum.ie/.

10. Finish your day in Malahide Village

With your visit to all the castle has to offer behind you, make your way to Malahide. Growing from humble origins as a fishing village, it is now an upmarket part of Dublin. This is reflected in the boutiques, restaurants and cafes that line its attractive streets. Can I recommend any of the fish at the Fish Shack. The Calamari is to die for. Or you could dine in style at McGovern’s, or in the comfortable surroundings of Gibney’s Pub.

Then end your visit with a walk along Malahide Marina, admiring the yachts and cruisers of Dublin’s most affluent families, as the breeze of the Irish sea gently caresses your face.

While I deem Malahide Castle the best in Dublin, it is not the only castle worthy of your time. I have suggested the moated Drimnagh Castle as an excellent choice, in my article, Should you visit Drimnagh castle? Alternatively the very entertaining Dalkey Castle, and the magnificent village that surrounds it, are a worthy day trip from Dublin.

Would you enjoy a visit here? Let me know in the comments.

How to find Drimnagh Castle

Drimnagh Castle is located about 10 km (6 miles) outside Dublin city centre in the city’s suburbs. The very frequent bus, the 123, arrives in Drimnagh from O’Connell Street or Dame Street in about 25 minutes. You can get your tickets onboard the bus, and the fare is €3. Having the correct change is also recommended, as buses in Dublin don’t give change. Jump off at stop 2102 on the Drimnagh Road, and from here walk down the Long Mile Road. You’ll know the road by how long it looks. The castle is hidden behind Drimnagh Castle Primary School which will be on your right.

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Drimnagh Castle History

Drimnagh Castle was owned by the Barnwall family. The Barnwalls were an Anglo-Norman family who won great favour with the English crown. The De Bernevals as they were known at the time, fought in the battle of Hastings in the 11th century, and helped Strongbow in his 1172 conquest of Ireland. However all were slaughtered bar one, a Hugh de Berneval. In 1215 he was granted lands in the region of Drimnagh and Terenure in Dublin. So they built a lovely timber castle there, which of course was burned down by the unwelcoming Irish. In 1280, a stone castle took its place, and the moat which still surrounds it, was dug and supplied with water by the bluebell river.

For four centuries the Barnwalls called the castle home. It saw its last major improvements in 1614, when a lot of defensive installations were installed including the tower. Only for all this to be undone by the removal of the drawbridge in 1780. Passing through many hands over the few centuries before the 1900’s it landed in the hands of the Christian Brothers, who ran the adjacent school. Notorious in Ireland for their heavy handed abuse of students, they treated the castle in the same way.

The Restoration

When the site came into the hands of the state and they recovered it from the pigeons, it was in great disrepair. With a name like a superheroes alter-ego, the castles savior was a man named Peter Pearson. He swung into the castle like Tarzan, using a rope to cross the moat. Reports that he yelled like Johnny Weissmuller while doing it are unconfirmed.

The site took six years to renovate and was opened to the public in 1991. Many craftsmen employed their craft to bring the castle back to its former glory. To the day, the castle is maintained by local FAS workers, bringing employment to the community.

My Visit

To visit Drimnagh Castle you must do so by guided tour. Tours only run Monday to Thursday from 9 am till 3 pm on the hour. On Fridays they take a half day. Where do I apply? Tours cost €6 per person and cash is king, as the digital money revolution hasn’t reached here yet. Barter may also be accepted.

I turned up one quiet afternoon to tour the castle. On arrival there was no one in sight and only after 5 minutes did I come upon an employee. My asking about the tour led to some confusion it seemed. He sought out some colleagues and after a few moments consultation decided he was doing the tour. With that much uncertainty your expectations can’t be too high can they?

Yes they very much can. The renovation and upkeep of the castle is a community supported project, and having inherited the castle in a dire state, they have since worked wonders to get it to the appearance it has today. My guide had a vast knowledge of the castle and a passion that I have rarely seen in attractions of this type. As I was the only person on the tour it had a novelty factor too. There’s nothing to compare to a one to one tour.

Drimnagh Castle Tour

The tour takes you through the various buildings of the castle. Don’t expect lavish furnishings, the castle is a representation of what it looked like through the middle ages. You survive walking under the murderhole; hide out in the undercroft as the residents did during attack; and trip up the spiral stairs of the tower as attackers have! At the castles heart is the Great Hall, which now plays host to weddings and events, as it most likely did so many years ago. Its the castles centerpiece; the elaborate floor tiles are from St Andrews Church in Suffolk Street in Dublin, and the impressive roof is constructed of strong Roscommon oak. The balcony above evokes memories of jesters and musicians entertaining the folk within. Along the walls are the craftsmen’s greatest achievements; a series of carved wooden effigies of the various characters who called this castle home.

As with every good Irish castle, Drimnagh Castle has its own ghost story. Eleonora Barnwall’s story is one of loving the wrong man (an Irish scoundrel instead of the cousin she was betrothed to) and when it all ended in a broken heart and much death, she too found her way to the grave of her Irish rebel, and lay there till she perished. I guess she’s still looking for that lost love of hers in the castle.

If you are contemplating a Drimnagh Castle wedding (I mean who doesn’t want to get married in a castle), why not get in touch with the castle here.

The Medicinal Gardens.

The medicinal gardens are a top class feature of the castle, and are also included in the tour. They are the passion of the aforementioned workers, who as well as developing unusual structures here, keep the gardens in an exemplary condition. The gardens are styled in that of a parterre. Of French origin, this formal styling is usually of hedging, which is arranged in a symmetrical fashion. Here we see four squares, and all manner of unusual flowers and plants.

Another prominent feature is the hornbeam alley, which is a path surrounded by trees, so as the lady of the house could keep her pretty pale colour. At the end was an area that was completely sheltered. It looked the perfect place to sit and read.

Herbs are still grown here as they once were, and the tour guide was again very knowledgeable of the gardens. He was also kind enough to give me some lemon balm to take with me. As we parted ways, I was invited to walk around the gardens for as long as I liked.

If you think you recognise the castle, its perhaps because you were a fan of the show The Tudors, which filmed here. Or of the movies the Abduction Club and Ella Enchanted. Can’t say I’ve seen the last personally.

Make the most of your trip

If you were to think it’s not worth making the trip for the castle, then consider this. The 123 bus route passes near some of Dublin’s finest attractions in Kilmainham Gaol and the Irish Museum of Modern Art.

The Irish Museum of Modern Art is housed in the Royal Hospital Kilmainham. Widely regarded as the finest building of the 17th century in Ireland, it is as much an attraction as the art within. Designed by James Butler, its inspiration was Les Invalides in Paris. The sculpted gardens are among Dublin’s best. Entry to the grounds and the art exhibitions are free, except special exhibitions.

Kilmainham Gaol is infamous for the part it played in Irish history. Opened in 1796, many leaders of the various rebellions leading up to and including that of 1916, were imprisoned and ultimately executed here. As a tour it’s fascinating, to witness the petty crimes that many people found themselves here for, and indeed to walk the floors and cells. You can visualise the hardships of prison life at the time. Admission to the Gaol is €8 and visit is by guided tour only.

Should my visit to Drimnagh Castle have wet your appetite, then why not take a look at some of the other castles in Dublin. Dalkey Castle is undoubtedly the city’s most entertaining. Click the link for my blog.

But it’s not the castle alone that you should visit Dalkey for. This village is also among the most traditional and exclusive in Dublin, and it’s sea views, likened to the Bay of Naples, are without contrast in the whole of the city. A day trip to Dalkey Castle and village is highly recommendable if spending time in Dublin.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Dalkey Castle and Village History

The history of Dalkey Castle and the village of Dalkey go hand in hand. Dalkey only came to prominence after some disasters at sea with the silting up of Dublin Bay in the 13th century. As Dublin was under the control of the British empire at the time, a significant amount of trade took place via the Irish Sea. Dublin bay was deemed dangerous and this prompted the look for a deeper harbour. Building Dalkey harbour was the answer.

With the increase in goods been taken in over the countryside which at that time was between here and Dublin, the need for better defences led to the walled town of Dalkey being born. Within a total of 7 tower houses was built, of which you can still see 2 today. The largest of these was Goat Castle. The castles were constantly under threat from the Irish clans and this led to life within being ever challenging. With time though, the trade route and castles grew obsolete and the village fell into ruin.

In Victorian times, with the extension of the train service to Dalkey, Dalkey became popular again. The village grew, and wealthy citizens of the city built stunning mansions overlooking the sea. This trend has continued to the present day and now Dalkey ranks as one of Dublin’s most affluent neighbourhoods. And yet it retains its charm, the local population have resisted the influx of supermarket and restaurant chains, and small businesses still line the streets. It remains one of the best places to appreciate historical Dublin at its best.

How to get to Dalkey Village

Dalkey is located some 18 km outside of Dublin. The town is easiest reached by Dublin’s Dart rail service, and takes circa 30 minutes from the city centre stations of Connolly, Tara or Pearse. It’s a relaxing ride by the Irish coast with views that will make you feel alive. Alight at Dalkey station, and it’s a short walk into the centre.

It’s about a 45 minute drive from the city centre to Dalkey, but unless you are a local follow the advice from my driving in Ireland post, and don’t drive in Dublin.

Dalkey Castle

The present day Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre stands on Dalkey Main Street, with a flag of 3 goats flying from a mast atop its battlements. The flag represents the Cheevers family (French for goat) who occupied the castle in the 16th Century. It’s attractive but not particularly exciting from the outside, being a mere town house. The castle has served as the town hall of Dalkey for some time.

Admission costs are €8.50 for an adult and family discounts are available. The visitor centre closes on Tuesdays and the official website is a very useful resource about Dalkey Castle and Dalkey events. You may also book group tours and school tours, and you must book tickets online for these.

The very knowledgeable tour guide (yes I know I said there wasn’t one) takes you through to a multimedia room where a video recounts much of the Dalkey castle history I just introduced you to. But with more diagrams. From there we enter the church and graveyard. The graveyard contains over 2000 burials in a very small space and this has resulted in the ground level rising significantly. Rising from the dead if you will. Take time to study the grave stones, some have some really interesting symbols on them.

St Begnet’s Church Dalkey

The ground means that the church is significantly lower than when it was first built. Would certainly give you the impression that the townsfolk were much smaller back then. Apparently not so. The church was built in the 10th century, and is more or less in ruins now. Yet you can still see the interesting belfry, which was unique in that the bells had to be rang by climbing on the roof of the church.

Of particular interest is the Yew Tree which has survived many centuries, it is a common plant in graveyards, as its berries are poisonous and acts as a deterrent to farmers who may think to graze their animals there.

Actors Dalkey Castle tour

Finally we are introduced to the actors and the castle jumps from a five to a ten. The actors come from the local Deilg Inis Theatre Company and are charged with bringing the castle to life with stories and experiences. And what a job they do. The first, represents an archer from the 16th century. As well as teaching us how to use a bow and a crossbow, he covered the defensive aspects of the castle. And all the time had us in stitches. To some kids visiting from the US, he asked if they were very tired. After the trip of many months aboard a boat from the New World. The perplexed look on their faces was priceless.

As we continued to the castle he pointed out the machicolation over the door and the murder hole just inside. He recalled how much they laughed as they poured boiling water down on the Irish as they attacked the castle.

Our next actor was the cook. Again there was no shortage of humour as she took us through the life in a kitchen of a castle at the time. The tour cleverly integrated aspects of the castle into the script, as she took us to the castle battlements and the “Warders’ Walk” where guards kept watch for those filthy Irish coming to attack!!

Master of the household

The best of the tour was saved till last though. The master of the house here presents the task of a barber surgeon. Presented with a chilling smile he offered services to us all, including two for the price of one on amputations. We also refused the blood letting, leeches, and a shave with the knife he brandished below. He was quite the actor.

The living history tour takes roughly around an hour and will guaranteed bring a smile to your face.

Local Attractions in Dalkey town

Don’t just jump back on the dart as soon as leave the castle. Dalkey is a unique village and history lies around each corner. With an interesting selection of shops and cafes it’s perfect to pick up an original gift or enjoy a excellent lunch before the hike into the hills above.

Walking the streets remnants of the old tramline can be found in the tramyard, made all the more visible by the street art on an adjacent wall.

Or why not delve into the past of some of Ireland’s great writers. James Joyce, Hugh Leonard, Maeve Binchy and GB Shaw, all found inspiration from Dalkey. The castle offers guided literary walks for small groups wishing to learn more about Dalkey.

Archbold’s Castle

Archbold’s Castle is the second of the castles still standing. As it lies mostly in ruin, it can only be admired from outside.

Dalkey Quarry

Back to that hike I mentioned a moment ago. In the 18th century as Dun Laoghaire harbour (one of two significant harbours in Dublin) was being built a huge amount of stone was drawn from the hill near Dalkey. What is left is a wonderful man made facility for hiking, and the best rock climbing in Dublin (if not Ireland) if that’s your jam. Follow Dalkey Avenue which is just after Archbold’s Castle. In just 15 minutes you’ll be atop Dalkey Hill and treated to sweeping views over Dublin. The landmark twin towers of Sandymount, Dun Laoghaire, and Howth in the distance can all be distinguished.

The quarry is home to plenty of local wildlife too, with squirrels, butterflies, and rabbits aplenty, as well as many wildflowers and wild gorse. The endangered Peregrine Falcon has nested in the region in recent years.

Atop the quarry, reached by steps, stands an old signal tower, which the British military previously used to communicate to the Martello Towers built along the coast of Dublin and Wicklow. The towers were built in preparation of an attack in the 19th century by Napoleon, which subsequently never happened. I guess he didn’t deem Ireland worthy of his conquest.

From here, passing through the forest in an easterly direction will take you to an outcrop overlooking the sea. The views overlooking Bray Head, the Irish Sea and the conical peaks of the Great and Little Sugar Loaf’s are indeed probably the finest on Ireland’s east coast.

Killiney Hill

While no longer technically Dalkey it would be remiss of me not to include it. Its essentially part of the same hill, just separated by a hollow and area boundaries on a map. The views of the Irish Sea are ever to your east here but atop the summit of Killiney Hill are the reasons this walk is worthwhile. A trio of monuments sits atop the hill known as the Killiney Obelisk, the pyramid and the witches hat.

The Killiney Obelisk was a work commissioned in 1742 by the landlord of the area. A famine had devastated the crop for two years in 1740 and 1741 with the loss of over 250,000 lives. Consequently the obelisk was built to give the locals the opportunity to gain some employment and see out those terrible times. It now stands as a monument to those lives lost.

The pyramid and witches hat were added in 1852 by the then owner of the hills Robert Warren. They mainly serve purpose as a folley, though some locals believe you can make wishes as you climb each step of the pyramid. For the record I have yet to win the Euromillions.

If you were to continue into Killiney, then a tour of the homes of Ireland’s famous is possible. Bono, Enya, and The Edge all reside here. However ur walk descends eastwards down the hillside to the Vico Road. It’s one of Ireland’s most aesthetic addresses with views like this…

At the bottom of Vico Hill, the route now turns onto Coliemore Road. On each side stands a park; to the left Sorrento Park, a lush overgrown park and the setting of the Hugh Leonard play “A life”; and also to the right Dillons Park. Dillons Park has magnificent views over to Dalkey Island.

Dalkey Island

Not far from the coast lies the island. The ruins you can see are of a a Martello Tower and an earlier St Begnets church from the 7th century. More recently it is also the home of a colony of seals and a herd of feral goats. The largest European colony of Roseate Terns means this is an excellent place for birdwatching too.

Dalkey island can also be visited by boat and this service is provided by an excellently named local company called Ken the Ferryman, who runs tours there for €10 per person via speedboat. This service is provided from…

Coliemore Harbour

This harbour is actually only a matter of minutes from the aforementioned parks. Sweeping views of the sea in order. Bottlenose dolphins are often seen frolicking in the bay also. The harbour has the feel of a small fishing village of a bygone time, and it’s hard to believe that the city is mere minutes away. It’s somewhere to get lost with your thoughts.

Coliemore Road

It’s little wonder that somewhere so idyllic would be sought after. And sought after it certainly is. Coliemore Road indeed ranks as the sixth most exclusive address in Ireland. A quick Google search and the first house that pops up is with an asking price of €5.5 million. Its a little higher than the going rate here, but not a lot higher. Finally our looped walk back to Dalkey takes us past some of those casa grandes. Personally I would actually call them castles. Dalkey Castle has some competition on this road. Who wouldn’t want to call some of these home.

And so back in Dalkey we now arrive. If you haven’t avail of one of the charming cafes such as the Corner Note. Or have a boost from the Select Stores, one of Dublin’s most famed health stores.

If the urge to get one more castle in is too strong (as it is usually for me) then Bullock Castle lies 1 km from Dalkey centre. Dated to around 1150 it has recently been restored and is located on the grounds of a nursing home. If you have a car (I know I said don’t) you can even drive through to a car park. How often do you get to drive through a castle? I’m easily pleased I know. The castle can’t be visited internally, but can be walked around, and the nearby fishing village of Bullock is a real pleasure. The Glenageary dart station can take you back to Dublin city centre from here.

Conclusion on Dalkey

Having lived in Dublin for two decades now, Dalkey ranks as one of my top places for a day trip. It’s village like atmosphere, good food, and amazing views in particular put it above the rest. Dalkey Castle is hands down the most entertaining castle on the island, and the actors are extremely funny. What a combination! Get on that dart and leave the centre of Dublin behind.

Dublin castle visits are a passion of mine. Why not follow my continued literary exploration of them with Drimnagh Castle.

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Our drive from Dublin cut through the lowlands of Longford and Roscommon before riding the backbone of Mayo. A succession of towns with either closed cafes or the empty car parks of pubs on a Sunday (never inspiring) ensured we arrived in Ballina with a gaping hunger.

The Ice House Hotel Ballina

First impressions of the town of Ballina suggested it was peaceful, but relatively big, with a good number of hotels, shops and pubs for the traveller. We made our way to the Ice House Hotel Ballina. The Moy River provides a beautiful setting for the hotel on its banks.

Lunch at the Ice House Hotel

We made a beeline for the Riverview restaurant. It’s down a flight of stairs and set within what assumes was the original “ice house”. High curved ceilings lead out to a tasteful glassed extension. The large windows overlook the river and make wonderful use of the location. The 19th-century house looms above through the conservatory windows.

We were encouraged to find a seat. The Sunday Lunch menu had the usual staples, roast beef, bacon, chicken. It was priced at 23€ for 2 courses. I went with the deep-fried Brie which was spot on and had a delicious side salad. My wife’s leek and potato soup was lacking salt but was easily remedied. For mains, I had the chicken Kiev and she had the cod both of which were decent. Good fare on a cold bitter winters day.

The bedroom at Ice House Hotel

The bedroom, was fantastic centred on a king-size bed with a very comfortable King Koil mattress. It was equipped with a shower, but no bath. A selection of Voya products is available in the bathroom. The hotel has a number of suites in both modern and traditional styles, the Riverview suites looked excellent from what I saw. Our view overlooked the river which reflected the trees from the woods behind. The colours of Autumnal brown glowed from the water, despite this being early January.

Facilities of the hotel

The hotel had a good range of treatments for him, her and for couples. The spa is highly regarded and is based around Voya products and treatments. Treatments start from specials at around the €50 mark. However, Beata had a dose of the sniffles and so we abstained. The highlight of the spa was a couple of outdoor cedar wood hot tubs and a barrel sauna which were idyllically located on a boardwalk next to the river. We made it our intention to use the next morning.

An evening relaxing ended with a dinner in the bar. We were still a little full after lunch so didn’t fancy a 3-course meal. I opted for the beef burger and she had the grilled chicken ciabatta with guacamole. Again the food was consistently good. The barman was a bit rushed but the restaurant was busy.

Why call it the Ice House Hotel

The hotel opened since the noughties, was originally an icehouse as the name suggests. The river was the salmon capital of Ireland, and large quantities were caught here and taken to Dublin and the UK. This is where the ice house came in, providing refrigeration for the fish on its journey from Atlantic to the Irish Sea. Built in 1859, the ice stores were filled by ice from local lakes and ponds. Obviously winters were a lot colder back then. In mild winters ice was shipped from Scandinavia. The house was built over the ice stores in 1890. However, climate change in the early 20th century resulted in a decline in the ice houses. With the advent of refrigeration, their use was discontinued.

There is a well-blended fusion of styles within the hotel. A sitting room is moulded around an open fire. A flight of stairs to the older building is trapped in time. The modern rooms monikers are those of gems and stones. The ice house dark vaults juxtapose the streaming light from the glassed restaurant.

 We awoke early and came down for what was a fantastic breakfast. I, as ever in hotels, opted for the full Irish. The staff were more than helpful to arrange a plate of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs for Beata. The restaurant again provided a calm location for breakfast. It’s the perfect location for a few days retreat from the bustle of city life.

The night, however, had brought with it a cold snap and with that a disaster. We awoke to a bitter morning the next day which scuppered our hopes to use the hotel’s outdoor jacuzzis and sauna. They fell victim to the cold and were out of order. We lamented the opportunity not to avail of them. Maybe our health was grateful for it.

Onwards to the Wild Atlantic Way

Despite the sub-zero temperatures we ploughed ahead with the plan to catch some of the Wild Atlantic Way. Traversing the River Moy via Ballina, we made our way to my first chosen stop, Belleek Castle, a Manor House built in 1831, and opened as a hotel in 1970. Private tours allow one to visit the private collection of armour and to visit various parts of the castle…. however, not today, tours didn’t start till 2 pm in January and that’s a long wait from 11.

Deciding to be selective cause of the bitter cold (the chill factor brought the air down to -6 degrees celsius) I opted to keep going past Moyne Abbey and Rosserk Friary. Beata suffering from a head cold was a contributing factor here too.  I briefly visited Killala Round Tower, a very intact structure amongst a number of historical buildings.

The roads from here were what one expects, bendy, bumpy, bizarre; but with a fine collage of views. More than once I feared for our safety as we crushed through road ice, but we made it to the Ceide Fields without a hitch.

The hitch came when I discovered they were closed. I referred back to my bible, the book of Google, which for once had let me down. A local website confirmed their opening from Easter to October end. Disheartened with myself I took solace in a wonderful sea view to be found directly opposite the attraction entrance. The wind was biting but it only enhanced the raw power of the vista.

Backtracking as planned we stopped in Ballycastle for a coffee. We headed to a local pub. Opening the door Country and Western yodelling rushed to our ears and a few locals heads turned. I had a brief thought I had entered a scene from Deliverance but then the barmaid broke my delusion with her friendliness.

From Ballycastle, we turned up towards Downpatrick Head. An awesome piece of coastline, battered by huge waves, there is a car park at the end. From here a marked path takes you out to the Dun Briste Sea Stack. A sign warns about coastal erosion, high waves, and blowholes. I wouldn’t need any more encouragement. But my conscience told me otherwise, Beata was in need of a bed, an electric blanket and some TLC. Not a long wait in a car in the rugged wilds of the West. So I begrudgingly give up on my hike.

This area of the Wild Atlantic Way is well worth a visit. I can’t say why as I didn’t get to see anything I wanted. But I know I’ll be back to step out on the fields of our early ancestors, to (hopefully) avoid the blasts of gushing water from blowholes, and to soak in a jacuzzi on the banks of the River Moy.

For more suggestions on travel and hotel stays in Ireland, my guide to taking a staycation in Ireland will surely be of help.