The Glen Beach Cliff Walk is a moderate hike both in difficulty and length. Out and back it’s roughly 5km and while there’s no really difficult climbs, it does hug the cliff face a lot of the way with exposed cliff edges, so steady footing is needed for carefuls sake. It’s best to walk in single file throughout the walk.

Depending on what path you take the walk can range from 3.7km to 5.3km. The official 3.7km follows a green arrowed trail and loops back along the same route. This is a Google maps guided map to help you with that, but it is hard to lose the trail. The unofficial route leaves the green trail, explores some lighthouses and follows a country and secondary road back to the car park. This is that map from Alltrails.

Getting to the Glen Beach Cliff Walk

The Glen Beach Cliff Walk is serviced by its own car park. For the Dublin day-trippers, Glen Beach is 52 kilometres from the city, making it one of the most accessible in Ireland. It’s not one for public transport unless you want to add the walk from Wicklow town to your hike. Not that I’m saying that’s a bad idea but from Wicklow Train Station its 2.8km to the car park. That said Wicklow is a pleasant town with a few decent places to grab lunch and a couple of excellent attractions.

First steps on the Glen Beach Cliff Walk

Even from the car park the scenery is great, reaching over greenery to the Irish Sea. On a bright blue day, it’s stunning. The trail begins at the free car park and descends a few flights of stairs and footpaths past the Glen View Golf Course. Passing through an archway brings us to our location that’s worthy of standing and staring, or languishing a little. The beach which gives the trail its name is tiny. It’s not a sandy beach, it’s better, covered in smooth multicoloured stones and pebbles.

From here our cliff walk begins. It’s a series of mild climbs and drops each presenting a different view of this fabulous stretch of coastline. Keep an eye towards the Irish Sea as you walk, as some of the walks famed inhabitants can be seen in these early stretches. There’s a distinct feeling that they are in fact the ones doing the watching, as the bobbing heads are always directed towards land. That song by Rockwell sprang to mind as we walked. I may have even (badly) sang a few lines.

The Grey Seals

A pod of Grey Seals are the Glen Beach Cliff Walks best draw. Before approaching the beaches where the Grey Seals nest, a number of warnings are shared and these must be adhered to. For your safety as much as that of the seals. They can give a good bite if stressed. During the months of August to April the beach must not be entered as stipulated by the Wildlife Act 1976. Pups are often left on land as their mothers hunt for fish. Approaching pups or allowing dogs to do so can cause a Grey Seal mother to abandon their young. Dogs must be kept on a leash for this walk!

The good news is there is an elevated position that allows you to see the seals without disturbing them. As you walk, you will see a tiny beach with similar warnings, though rarely there are any seals here. Continue through the small gorge that lies beyond, and you’ll be at the approach to the bigger beach known as Lime Kiln Bay. To the left lies a trial up onto a headland. This rises above the beach and gives a birds eye view down onto the seals which hopefully are resting below. Our visit in January 2022 hit the jackpot, with a pod of about 30 seals chillin’ on the beach. Jackpot!

When observing take care not to disturb even from above. This is a natural wonder to preserve for others and the particular highlight of the stunning Glen Beach cliff walk.

Returning to the entrance to the beach, the trail continues onwards. This section now is alive with birdlife. We spotted rock pipits, cormorants, black guillemots, greater whitethroats, oystercatchers, starlings, without any effort. Anyone dedicated to bird watching could have lots more success as kittiwakes, shags, razor bills, peregrine falcons, stonechats, and linnets are all common here.

The Lighthouses

The walk reaches its turning point as a lighthouse looms into view. While only one is visible from the trail, there are in fact three together here. The one that’s visible is the Old Wicklow Head Lighthouse, whose light housing days are now over. It’s definitely the prettiest of the three, built in 1781. As you reach the gates you’ll see a private property sign, as the area is only open to registered guests. Judging by Google and Alltrails reviews that doesn’t stop most people walking, as there are plenty of photos of all three.

The best news yet- you can stay the night there. They have a minimum stay policy of 2 nights starting from €644 but in this location you’ll want to stay the two. The lighthouse has 6 rooms, including 2 bedrooms so you can bring some friends along. Reading up on it, there are 109 steps up to the kitchen, so I recommend you avoid serving a 6 course meal. To book the Old Wicklow Head Lighthouse a visit to the Irish Landmark Trust website is required. To my knowledge it is the only lighthouse in Ireland, where you can stay within the actual lighthouse.

We followed the official trail as mentioned earlier back to the car park. Keep an eye out here for some buildings of archaeological significance. There is the ruins of an old church, a lime kiln where some prehistoric flints were found, and a holy well.

Back to Wicklow Town- Where to eat and what to do?

I don’t know about you but walking makes me hungry. Wicklow Town has plenty of options before you head back on your way, or continue exploring. Fitzwilliam Square has some cafes and an ice cream shop and some communal outdoor seating if the weather is decent. We ate at the imaginatively tilted The Coffee Shop. Thankfully the food was a little more thoughtful. Alternatively there’s the Port. Leitrim Place hosts the Grey Dog Cafe where quality tacos and pizza can be got. My kind of food after sport such as hiking.

You might be full to the brim, but don’t go fleeing home yet. Wicklow Gaol is the town’s top attraction and one the 25 most haunted places in Ireland in my book. Visiting is an experience, with a fully interactive tour exploring the hardships of those imprisoned here over two centuries. For those with the prerequisite guts, hang around and do the night tour.

Just out from town is Black Castle. This ruin has glorious views up and down the coast. The castle itself didn’t last long, built in the 12th century, and destroyed in the 14th, but it’s not really the attraction here. Just south of it is a wonderful little beach too called Travelahawk Beach. Reputedly St Patrick tried to land here. It was also a filming location for the TV show Vikings.

Back in town the quay’s around the River Vartry have some excellent street art, depicting Vikings. The Quays aren’t the busiest but it is the nicest part of the town for a walk.

Have you taken on some of County Wicklow’s best known trails? Here’s some links to them.

Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk.

Djouce Mountain

Spinc Glendalough

Lough Bray Loop

Hiking Essentials

The Most Essential – Hiking Boots for Him and Her

A good pair of anti-blister, anti-sweat and slip hiking socks. These merino wool ones are perfect.

While they might not be for everyone I find hiking poles protect my knees and give me a better workout.

A solar Power Bank will make sure you’ll have power as long as you’ll need it.

A good DSLR camera with a wide angle lens for landscapes, a telephoto lens for wildlife, and plenty of memory. A mini tripod is handy too for those steadier shots.

Some essentials I hope you never have to use – compass, first aid kit, head torch, multipurpose knife, a lifestraw, survival sleeping bag,

A backpack big enough to hold all this.

Bring plenty of water, snacks, food, a waterproof jacket and pants (it is Ireland), sunscreen, and a map also.

Alltrails is an excellent companion to

Remember to leave no trace.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Christians and Orthodox both celebrate Easter, albeit at different times. The biggest differences are the practices between countries and indeed even within them. Many of these stem from folk practices rather than religious ones, that have been moulded to match the holiday. Therefore we now have a range of unique celebrations of Easter in Europe. It’s a cultural treasure just waiting to be explored, and thankfully has been by some of the best bloggers around. This is their experiences of the different Easter celebrations in Europe.

The Origins of Easter in Europe through to the Modern Day

Easter firstly found its origins in the celebrations of Eostre. This was a celebration around the time of the spring equinox dedicated to the Anglo-Saxon goddess of Spring and Fertility of the same name. Ancient stories of Eostre commonly link her with eggs, a symbol of fertility and new life, and hares. Perhaps because of the spring in their step. However the latter may have been changed over the centuries by folk people. This fact has been lost to time and history though.

The earliest known celebration of Easter by Christians came in the 2nd century. However it took many more full moons before the current means of deciding when Easter should fall came into being. This was agreed upon in the 8th century, when they finally settled on the first full moon after the spring equinox. This corresponds with the month of Nisan in the Hebrew Calendar.

The Eastern Orthodox Church has a different means of calculating Easter as they used the Julian Calendar rather than the Gregorian one. It usually means that Orthodox Easter can fall up to a month after the Christian one. While efforts have been made to fix Easter on a specific date, no agreement has been reached. Easter can fall anytime between March and May, depending on religion and the calendar.

With such indecision over the centuries as to when Easter should fall, is it little wonder that how Easter is celebrated from country to country, and even village to village. While most involve religious elements, many also blend folk traditions into it. In doing so they create their own unique celebration of Easter. Many of the celebrations begin on Palm Sunday and continue all through holy week.

The Unique Traditions of Easter in Europe

While commercial Easter has become all about Easter Bunnies, Chocolate Eggs, and Egg Hunts, it’s the unique Easter in Europe traditions that I’ve asked bloggers to introduce you to

Easter in Europe really does vary drastically country by country. The tradition of the Easter Bunny started in Germany, and it brings the eggs. In France its “les cloches de Pâques”, aka the Easter bells. These fly away to Rome in Italy and return on Easter Sunday with the eggs. Naturally Rome itself is the Catholic epicenter of Easter. St Peters Basilica hosts a huge Easter mass.

Though its Enna the island of Sicily, and its parade of 2000 friars dressed in white cloaks that wins the unique award. Its smaller European destinations such as this that possess the most original ceremonies. Read on and hopefully we can motivate you on where to spend your Easter holiday in 2022.

Easter in Ireland

Despite being perceived as a traditional country, Ireland has been on a fast track to modernity over the last century. With that much of its old culture has been lost. The only Easter tradition to survive to this day in some form is the “cludog”. This is how egg hunts were known back then. Though the tradition then was to roast them and after the hunt place the shells around the bottom of a Mulberry Bush.

Gone are some of the older traditions such as watching the sun dance (getting up to see the sunrise); the cake dance (a dance around a cake of course); and the bonfires that once marked each big event in the Irish calendar.

Whipping the herring out of Town

However the tradition that’s really unique and sorely missed is “whipping the herring out of town”. This is a throwback to the time when Ireland was devoutly Catholic. Eating meat or animal products was forbidden for the 40 days of Lent. Before you assume the Irish were the first vegans, they substituted with fish, with herring the cheapest and most common.

Butchers suffered immensely during this time. Therefore when Easter Sunday came around, a herring was mounted on a stick and paraded through the town while been whipped. It was then given a mock funeral in a river. The herring was then replaced on the stick with a quarter of lamb. This was decorated in ribbons, as the butchers celebrated a return to business.

Sadly you can only see a painting by Nathaniel Grogan of the ceremony now, at the Crawford Gallery in Cork. It’s time butchers resurrected the tradition.

The Sprinkling in Holloko in Hungary

By John from CarpeDiemEire.

Holloko is a as small village in Northern Hungary that keeps alive the old traditions of the country. In doing so it is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, and has become one of the biggest travel destinations in Hungary outside of Budapest. This applies in particular during Easter, when the village hosts a huge festival.

Most come to see the particular tradition known as the sprinkling. This was once popular in Hungary, Slovakia and Poland, but as the countries left behind their village way of life, the tradition was left too. Not so in Holloko and many parts of Hungary. Sprinkling for those that are unfamiliar is a folk belief, that by throwing a bucket of water over a young girl (usually of marrying age) she will then be fertile and not wilt.

While it looks and sounds somewhat barbaric it isn’t, and nowadays is predominantly done for fun or spectacle. While in villages the bucket has been replaced by perfume that gets splashed on the head (in exchange for palinka or decorated eggs), Holloko still goes all the way.

Its the real highlight of a full weekend of festivities that make spending Easter in Holloko in Hungary a great idea. Besides this there is a full program of events with Easter markets, food stalls, live music and entertainment.

Semana Santa in Andalusia Spain

Contributed by Faith of XYUandBEYOND.

Semana Santa (Easter) is celebrated throughout Spain and you can be assured that every single region will have a parade and special events.

In Andalucía Semana Santa begins on the Sunday before Easter. La Madruga as it is known as was started in the 16^th century. It allowed people to participate in the Passion of the Christ.

Brotherhoods known as Cofradias are responsible for carrying the massive floats known as tronos. The tronos are floats with one figure such as Christ or Mary. There are also pasos floats with more than one figure that depict events such as the Last Supper. 

The men carrying the tronos or pasos will often wear blindfolds signifying they are making a sacrifice to ask for favours from God for their family or friends, never for themselves. 

The floats are followed by capirotes who are penitents related to the Cofradia they follow. A capirote is a tall conical hat that is believed to bring the wearer closer to god. 

The parades are always accompanied by brass bands and music which is an important part of the celebrations. During the parade a saeta will be performed. The Saeta is an ancient traditional Spanish religious song and it is performed from a balcony overlooking the parade route.  

The parades will wind their way throughout the villages from one of its churches to a central Cathedral and all along the route you will find onlookers and celebrants. It is a joyous celebration that you can’t miss if you plan on being in Spain throughout Easter.

Franconian Easter Fountains of Germany

By Corinne Vail at Reflections Enroute.

Every year, a small region of Bavaria called Franconia decorates their fountains in the centre of town with Easter eggs and pine boughs. Many are decorated in the shape of a crown. The eggs are decorated by the townspeople, often at the elementary school. Everyone gets involved, and it’s a great road trip to plot a route through the towns and see which fountain you like the best.

The fountains are decorated about two weeks before Easter, and stay up for another week afterwards so there’s plenty of time to go. Some of the towns that have annually decorate their fountains are: Heiligenstadt, Birkenreuth, Zapfendorf, and Weiden in der Oberpfalz, but there really are many to choose from. My advice is to take your time. Visit the towns and see all their decorations and fountains, then stop for a great seasonal lunch of trout or lamb.
Franconia is in central Germany, easily accessible by train.

However, to get out into the villages, it will be necessary to rent a car. I suggest taking a flight or train to Nuremberg, renting a car there and making a circuitous route. You’ll love it.

Pomlazka in the Czech Republic

By Joanna from The World In My Pocket.

In the Czech Republic, Easter is celebrated more as a welcoming of spring rather than a religious holiday. The celebrations begin with the opening of the Easter Markets in Prague and continue well after Easter day.

One of the unique Czech traditions celebrated at Easter is the Pomlázka, an old pagan custom. On Easter Monday, boys go from house to house with the Pomlázka. This is made out of braided willow branches decorated with ribbons. They ask for the girls to come out and they gently whip their legs with it, whilst singing a tune asking for painted eggs. This is actually a ritual of fertility dating back from the 13^th century done so that the women don’t “dry out” during the rest of the year. In return, the girls give the boys a painted egg and tie another ribbon to their Pomlázka. 

Whilst outside of the Czech Republic the Pomlázka might sound like an odd tradition, in the country it is accepted pretty much everywhere. If a woman doesn’t want to be whipped on Easter Monday, she simply doesn’t open the door. However, many do, especially if they are looking forward to having a baby in the following year.

Butarice in Slovenia

By Helene from Wandering Helene

Easter traditions in Slovenia are plentiful and begin in February for Shrovetide, but after Ash Wednesday things quiet down until a week before Easter.

A tradition found throughout Slovenia, and some other parts of Central Europe is the cvetnonedeljske butare (Palm Sunday bundles). These are “bouquets” of foraged sticks, vines, flowers, greenery, and other bits found in the forest. Across the country, there are variations in the style and name. 

In Ljubljana, where there is not as much forest, they developed their own style. The Ljubljana butara or butarica is made with brightly painted spruce wood shavings. Just before Easter, the central market has stands selling these colorful bundles with fresh flowers and greens poking out the top. 

In some parts of the country, the butara uses specific plants to bless livestock, represent symbols in Christianity, or include fruit. The largest one ever made was 304 meters and took 130 men to carry it to the church for its blessing. After a blessing, parts of the butara can be fed to the animals, burned, or placed between the rafters of the home for protection.

The days before Easter is when some people dye eggs. Painted eggs, called pirhi, are an art form with stunning intricate regional motifs passed down through the family. These eggs are placed in a basket along with ham and potica to be blessed at the local church the Saturday before Easter.

If you visit Slovenia for Easter there are butara workshops hosted across the country. There you can learn how to make the traditional bundle for your own. 

Easter in Athens in Greece

By Chrysoula from Athens and Beyond

Easter in Greece is the largest religious festival in the Orthodox calendar. The week leading up to Easter (holy week) is very special. Most Greeks are preparing themselves spiritually for the festival. On Good Friday (Megali Paraskevi), housewives spend the morning in their local church decorating the purple draped Epitafios (tabernacle with the icon of Christ’s entombment) with beautiful white flowers. They have usually completed their work by lunchtime, so it is well worth popping into a few churches to admire their work.

Early the same evening, the women return to the church to sing the Heritismi (anthem to Our Lady). At about 9.00 p.m. the Epitafios is carried through the streets of the neighborhood in a procession led by the priest chanting prayers and 12 Bible readings.  His parishioners walk slowly behind him, carrying lit candles.

If you are staying in Athens, a lovely church to visit to see the decorated Epitafios is Agia Ekaterina (St Catherine) in Plaka. It was built in the 11th century in a cruciform shape with a central dome. Plaka has many bars and restaurants, so a stroll later in the evening will give you the opportunity to see the candlelit procession.    

The Procession of the Holy Blood in Bruges

By Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

The Procession of the Holy Blood is held every year in Bruges, Belgium on Ascension Day. This is the Thursday that falls 40 days after Easter. This procession celebrates a holy relic said to contain a piece of the blood-stained cloth Joseph of Arimathea used to wipe the face of Jesus Christ after his death. The cloth was preserved and brought to Bruges during the Second Crusade in the 12th Century. It’s believed by some that on Ascension Day, the dried blood becomes liquid again.

Over 3000 participants march in the procession annually. This includes local politicians, clergy, and members of the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood, who look after the holy relic. The parade, divided into four segments, first relays Bible stories from the Old and New Testaments. Following this the history of the relic arriving in Bruges, and the final religious component, which includes the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood displaying the holy relic itself. The parade includes floats, costumed actors, musicians, a menagerie of animals (including camels!) and even jugglers dressed in Medieval garb.

The procession begins after morning Mass (around 2:30pm) and starts at the Dijver Canal at 8000 Brugge. It is free to attend, but you need to purchase a ticket if you want to sit in the stands or on a bench along the route. Click here https://www.bloedprocessiebrugge.be/en/ for more information on the procession, route and how to buy tickets for a seat.

Throwing Clay Pots from Windows is Corfu

By Nina from Lemons and Luggage

One of the most unique Easter traditions in Europe takes place on the Greek island of Corfu. Located in the Ionian Sea, you can reach the island from Athens by plane.

Corfu is known for its many marching bands, and these play an important role during Easter. In the afternoon of Good Friday, the center of the capital Corfu is filled with them playing mourning songs while various churches perform their Easter processions.

One final procession takes place on Saturday after which people celebrate the so-called first resurrection. This fascinating aspect of Easter in Corfu takes place at 11 am. People throw clay pots filled with water from windows and balconies before marching bands play celebratory music. Thousands of people watch this ritual and take pieces of the pots home for good luck.

There are several theories as to the origins of this ritual. According to one the Ancient Greeks threw out their old clay pots and replaced them with new ones to mark the arrival of spring. Another theory states that the Venetians who ruled the island for several centuries used to throw out old objects to start the new year with new ones. The locals then moved the ritual to Orthodox Easter and used clay pots.

At midnight the big Easter ceremony takes place with thousands of candles being lit as well as fireworks. Finally, people in Corfu like the rest of Greece have enormous barbecues but don’t worry, there are places to eat vegan in Corfu as well.

Holy Saturday in Crete

By Roxanne from Faraway Worlds

Easter in Crete is one of the most important holidays of the year. While the largest of the Greek islands is only a short flight from Athens, Crete’s has its own distinctive Easter traditions. Greece celebrates Orthodox Easter, which is based on the Julian calendar.

This typically falls a couple of weeks later than is celebrated in Catholic or Protestant churches. One of the highlights of Easter in Crete falls on Holy Saturday. Typically, a late mass is held, which finishes just before midnight and is extremely well attended. Just before the end of mass, the Holy Candle is lit and everyone lights their sacred candles from the holy flame. At the end of mass, fireworks start and a bonfire is lit, where an effigy of Judas is burnt outside the church.

After mass, people hurry home with their candles and mark their doors with a black cross from the ash. This is supposed to bring luck for the coming year. The 40-day fast ends at midnight, so many families break their fast at home, otherwise, many tavernas are open after the midnight service with food and live music. Easter in Greece is a lively affair, and people eat until late into the night.

Egg Rolling in Northern Ireland

By Allan from It’s Sometimes Sunny in Bangor  

Egg rolling is a traditional Easter game played annually where hard boiled eggs are decorated with dyes and paints before rolling them down a hill. There are different versions of this game played in different countries but most will follow a similar set of rules within the United Kingdom.

Locally for myself in Northern Ireland, we would always prepare the eggs the day before Easter by boiling them first with onion skins to dye the outer shell. The dye was never overly necessary however as the hard boiled eggs were then painted and decorated. This was using watercolor or acrylic paints mostly, but not specifically, with Easter themes. The paint is then left to dry overnight, then, on Easter Day, local parents would bundle their kids in the car and head off to a place called Scrabo Tower.

This is a location around a 15-minute drive from Belfast City Centre, for the annual Easter egg roll. At the top of the hill the eggs are then rolled down the slope, and the contestant whose egg rolls farthest, without breaking or getting lost, is the winner. Unfortunately it is a dying tradition but more official events have kept traditions alive in other parts of the U.K. 

Cross Prosessions on Hvar in Croatia

By Gabrijela from Under Flowery Sky

Island Hvar is one of the most beautiful islands in Croatia. It is located 2 hours by ferry from Split or 1 hour by katamaran. Split is easily reachable from Zagreb which usually takes around 5 hours by bus.

This whole night event is an ancient tradition dating 500 years back. Every Holy Thursday at 10 pm, six local churches simultaneously start walking through the villages of Vrbanj, Vrboska, Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirče to come back to the starting point. During 8 hours, participants pass more than 25 km. One person acts as guide carrying the cross all the way, a person who was chosen 20 years prior. This procession is part of UNESCO’s cultural heritage.

Picturesque towns of island Hvar include: Hvar which is an administrative centre; Starigrad- one of the oldest towns in Europe where the beautiful palace of the local poet Petar Hektorović is located; Vrboska which is also called Little Venice, and Jelsa- known for its laid back atmosphere.

Easter celebrations in Europe

The celebrations of Easter in Europe that are seen around the continent are diverse enough to ensure that in fact nearly all are worth seeing on their own merits. Even within countries such as Greece, the mainland and islands celebrate vastly different. It’s a great opportunity to experience some of the unique cultural differences that still exit between the nations on the block. Easter is usually an ideal time to start your travelling year also, as Spring is in full swing in Europe. Which of these Easter celebrations in Europe would you book first?

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Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

2021 A year in Photos

January to May- Lockdown

2021 was like ’20 in reverse. While 2020 began with plenty of travel before falling off the fails, 2021 started with tumbleweeds. I was back to long stints staying in the hotel where I work, something which had caused me no end of stress in 2020. Except this time I got used to it. The creaks of the old building were familiar now. Amazingly when life reopened I even missed it. So maybe there is something to be said for having a building all to yourself for 70+ hours in one go. It afforded me a lot of time to write, something which I found hard to come by at the latter end of the year.

As in 2020, we walked a lot. Quite often I hit 20km a day. Then I undid all that hard work by gorging on some of Dublin’s finest unhealthiest sandwiches and burgers. Nothing quite like a bit of food therapy in these strange strange years. If there was one benefit of lockdown it’s getting to know our home towns a little better, and Dublin with us was no exception. Here’s a few of my faves from Dublin this year.

Spring Colours – 2021 A Year in Photos

Wildlife Photography – 2021 A Year in Photos

2021 also to the benefit of my wildlife photography immensely, which got plenty of practice. Dublin is quite the habitat with quite a few animal species calling it home as we do. A first ever boat trip around the island of Ireland’s Eye allowed me to finally add Puffins to my photo collection.

May – September – 2021 A Year in Photos

As the country reopened in time for summer (and for a change Ireland really treated us to a summer) our desire to expand our horizons was full to the brim, and we took every opportunity to get out of the city and see as much of Ireland as we could. Day and overnight trips took us to counties Meath, Wicklow, Wexford, Louth, Kildare, Fermanagh, Monaghan, Sligo, Mayo, Longford, Westmeath, Offaly, and Roscommon, as well as several trips up to Northern Ireland. I might have missed a few there too. Opportunities arose to work with a number of businesses too, and we did our first FAM trip with a tourist board in Longford.

Clare in June – 2021 A Year in Photos

As well as working with the splendid Ollie’s Tours on his Doolin Food Tour we also go the oppotunity to see more of the magical village of Doolin. It’s the perfect base to see the Cliffs of Moher, or jump on a ferry to the Aran Islands. We did. Hiring bikes is a romantic way to see the many stone walls of the islands, though I’d suggest grabbing one with mudguards as it rains there often. I learned the hard way.

Hiking and more in Wicklow Summer of 2021

As ever Wicklow is a great escape from the confines of city life in Dublin. With these views, little wonder. Flying the majestic Molly the Hawk at the National Bird of Prey Centre was quite the experience too.

Sligo and Mayo July – 2021 A Year in Photos

Fortune shone on us in July as we took to the road in Sligo and Mayo during the best heatwave of the year. The greens look even greener when the weather is favourable. Sligo and Mayo are seriously underrated, with some immense natural beauty. Ben Bulben and the Gleniff Horseshoe are two of Sligo’s best draw cards. Mayo has many more, from the awesome Downpatrick Head, to the incredible views on Achill Island. Road trip heaven.

Wexford in August – 2021 A Year in Photos

Wexford is Ireland’s Riviera, getting more sun than anywhere else, and full of long sandy stretches of beach. But it’s full of intrigue too with some really interesting architecture. There’s Hook Head Lighthouse, which is the oldest operational lighthouse in the world. Further exploring took us to the “Doll House” and the “Shell House”. These Wexfordians are imaginative.

FAM trip to Longford in August -2021 in photos

A three day FAM trip to Longford let me see more of my home county, than I had done in 42 years prior. Perhaps that’s an indictment of how lazy I was when younger, or praise of the good work by the team at Longford Tourism. After three days of walks, cycling on greenways, boat trips, and visiting several historical attractions, it became clear I had missed out on a lot.

Northern Ireland – 2021 A Year in Photos

Several trips to Northern Ireland constituted our first trips abroad in 2021. Even if it is little more than an hour up the road. Personal highlights were the astounding views at the Flagstaff view point, exploring Slieve Guillon, seeing Titanic at night, and an hour of indoor sky diving at We Are Vertigo.

A few other personal faves from 2021

Autumn and a return to International Travel

Having enjoyed the summer immensely in Ireland, as autumn approached so too did one of our favourite times to travel internationally. Travel was now easier than it had be for some time, with vaccine passports opening up great opportuinites within the EU.

The first trip via plane in over 500 days was a solo trip for John, to central Spain, and a long standing ambition to see the castles and towns of Castillo y Leon, and the Spanish capital Madrid. It didn’t disappoint. Each city I visited was better than the previous one.

Avila was surrounded by magnificent stone walls, a real sight at sunset.

Segovia’s Alcazar was what first drew my attention here and setting eyes on it was a highlight of the year.

Toledo was immense in every way. One of the best cities I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting.

Cuenca was cool, though I didn’t have enough time to really appreciate.

I only had a day in Madrid, and a mostly rainy one at that, so it became a museum day.

All in all a fantastic trip and so much more to come on it here at CarpeDiemEire.

Prague in November – 2021 a year in photos

Thankfully it didn’t take long to board a plane again, and Beata and I met in Prague, after she had some downtime at home in Hungary. Prague is one of those capital cities that lives up to every expectation, great food, a warm welcome, spectacular architecture, and attractions that are great fun. It’s castle is the largest in the world, and for anyone that says they don’t need a beer bath, Prague will prove them wrong. As in Beata’s case.

Some other highlights were the medieval banquet (that takes place in an 800 year old bar), the magnificent Charles Bridge, its’s many towers which I climbed, the dancing house, and all the architecture that has survived wars and centuries. As we travelled in November, Prague was still draped in the beautiful colours of autumn which was the icing on a very rich cake.

A Quieter End to 2021

2021 ended as it started, with a much slower pace, as restrictions returned and Omicron loomed. Though we did appreciate the many colours of Christmas that illuminated Dublin, and some of its well known attractions.

Of course our hopes are higher for 2022, and we aspire to travel more, travel better and travel longer.

Wishing you all the best in 2022, and I hope a great year of travelling beckons.

Dublin’s street lights traditionally light in November for the festive season. After a blip in covid years this years lights were lit on November 11th, giving them a good run now until January 6th.

The Christmas Lights in Dublin Big Light Up

If you are hoping to catch a big event where Dublin City flicks a switch and sparkles emanate from all streets, to the sounds of cheering and clapping people; you’re about five years too late for that. After a succession of years where overcrowding became a major problem, the call was finally made to have a quiet light up. This years lights were turned on by three kids from Little Blue Heroes, a charity that helps the families of children undergoing long term medical treatment for serious illnesses. A magical experience for them without doubt. There was a ceremony in Bewley’s Café on Grafton Street, but it was a small modest affair, which was live streamed. You of course can have your own personal self guided tour of the Dublin Christmas Lights, without seeing the light up.

The Street Christmas Lights in Dublin

Dublin’s street lights are run by DublinTown a collection of city centre businesses who join together to light up Dublin. There’s nowhere better to start than Dublin’s most fashionable shopping district, Grafton Street. Grafton Street is lit by 300,000 bulbs. At its top and bottom is the lit message that has long welcomed people to the street. The “Nollaig Shona Duit” Christmas light means Happy Christmas in the Irish language.

After an ill fated attempt to re-coin the area the Grafton Quarter in 2019, and replace the Nollaig Shona Duit sign with a Grafton Quarter one, all returned to normal in 2020. Relatively speaking.

The lights can be seen in around 30 streets around the city, where hanging them is possible. There are 4 kilometres of lights in total. As recomended start with Grafton Street and its adjacent streets Duke Street and South Anne Street. Continue by venturing out to Dame Street, Wicklow Street, Georges Street and the enchanting streets that lie between there and Grafton Street. If you feel you are walking in circles then you’re on the right track.

The Northside (north of the Liffey) is equally as charming and a walk via Westmoreland Street to O’Connell St brings us to perhaps the most decorative of all in Dublin. Its wide avenue lends well to the Christmas theme. Henry Street is Dublin 1’s biggest shopping street, and has its own lighted greeting in the “Welcome to Dublin One” sign. It’s the final stop on a Christmas lights in Dublin street tour.

Shopping centres and Department Stores- Dublin Christmas Lights

Of course the streets don’t have a monopoly on the lights. Ducking in out of the cold or rain to any of the shopping centres along the way, will reveal a melody of lights. Stephen’s Green shopping centre is a firm favourite, its glass structure was made for Christmas it seems. But an honourable mention goes to the Jervis Centre on Henry Street.

Dublin’s department stores have always gone head to head on who has the best windows. For years Clerys, Arnotts and Brown Thomas have competed with great imagination to capture the christmas spirit. While Clerys has sadly closed, the two other behemouts of Irish fashion. This year Brown Thomas has a theme of Out of this World while Arnotts have simply opted for the theme Joy (photos to follow).

Winter Lights 2021 – Christmas Lights in Dublin

The most unique set of lights in Dublin is the annual winter lights that illuminate some of the city’s most well known buildings. These change each year by the buildings and also by the lights. 2021 sees the most ambitious year yet with 21 laser installations across Dublin. The lights are all eco-friendly LED lights, an important consideration in our times.

All 21 locations are worth seeing, not only for the winter lights, but also the significant sights that they light up. In 2021 there are now two walking trails planned through the city by Winter Lights, to enable you to see all the installations. The first route takes in Capitol Dock, Samuel Beckett Bridge, The Jeanie Johnston Famine Ship, CHQ Triumphal Arch (outside the EPIC Museum), The Customs House, O’Connell St Trees, The GPO, Millennium Bridge, Smithfield Square, Mater Hospital, and the Hugh Lane Art Gallery.

The second has a lot of new begins at Merrion Square before its trail takes in the Mansion House, Trinity College, Barnardos Square, City Hall, Parliament St Trees, City Hall, Wood Quay Civic Offices, The Liberties Peace Park, The Liberties John’s Lane West, The Liberties Crane Street and the Liberties Digital Hub Windmill. Merrion Square’s walkthrough is excellent and a brilliant addition, but if you haven’t booked tickets they are already sold out.

Wild Lights at Dublin Zoo

While Wild Lights wasn’t an option for 2020 due to the times we live in, this unique lighting feature of the festive season in Ireland will return in 2021. The event has ran since 2017, and each year has a different theme. 2019’s theme of Stories, Myths and Legends was particularly well received. It’s sombre feature on extinct animals sought to throw a light on the subject in more ways than one. This article will give you a great visual idea about Dublin Zoo’s Wild Lights. While zoo’s can be often found to do more harm than good, Dublin Zoo has had a long history of conservation and breeding and ranks highly among its international peers for this.

Wild Lights returns bigger than ever in 2021, with a theme of Around the World. Light installation will now feature the pyramids, Eiffel Tower and a host of other well known landmarks from around the world.

Dublin in Winter

If you are visiting Dublin in winter, there is so much to do besides its Christmas lights. While the days are short, the temperatures can be still relatively mild in November and December. It doesn’t rain as much as you would expect either.

Dublin is a hub of events come December and there are many ways to celebrate Christmas, as outlined in our article Christmas in Dublin.

If you are looking for inspiration on what to do in Dublin in winter, why not take a read of the following articles, which are good for all seasons

A Tour of the Street Art in Dublin

The 30 Best Walks in Dublin

Where to Stay in Dublin

Dublin has a broad selection of accommodation catering for all budgets. Many of its city centre hotels are 4 or 5 stars, and the standards are high. The Dublin 2 area has the highest rates, followed by Dublin 1. For a more economical option, the hotels in the affluent Dublin 4 and 6 areas offer good quality at a lower rate, with excellent transport links to the city.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Has this article helped you plan your Christmas in Dublin? Share with a friend or to your social channels.

For travellers, what more do you need on a city break? For locals, it’s the perfect reason to hang about at home, and enjoy Dublin at Christmas, instead of heading to Germany for a markets break. Of course Dublin is an excellent city for shopping and those long winter nights lend well to exploring Dublin’s pubs, whose atmosphere really comes into it’s own at this time of year.

New Restrictions

So the ghost of Covid Christmas past has struck again and a heap of new restrictions have been imposed. Thanks Omicron. So I’ve updated the post to what actually is happening in 2021. Bbq

Things to do at Christmas in Dublin in 2021

See the Christmas lights – Dublin at Christmas

Any city at Christmas is only as good as the lights on it’s streets and Dublin gives it a damn good go. Nothing else quite gets you in the Christmas spirit. On Grafton Street alone you’ll find 300,000 bulbs. Or certainly it’s claimed so, and I’m not going to try and disprove it. The Nollaig Shona Duit (Happy Christmas in Irish) welcomes people on to Dublin’s premier shopping. Away from Grafton lights can be going on 30 other streets, most of those found adjacent to Grafton. Crossing the Liffey, O’Connell street and Henry Street give their own challenge to be regarded as Dublin’s best lit street. The big switch on of the lights took place on November 10th with a ceremony in Bewley’s Café to celebrate it.

Dublin’s main tourist buildings are also imaginatively lit up as part of Winter Lights. In 2020 17 locations in the city were transformed by lasers into beautiful displays. One can assume 2021’s offering will be even better. Xmas lights deserve their own post in themselves, and I obliged by writing one last year. Follow the link and read on for the full lowdown on the lights.  

Wild lights at Dublin Zoo – Dublin at Christmas

Wild lights has been running in Dublin Zoo for several years now (except surprise, surprise 2020) , and returns in 2021 with a new theme “Around the World”. Wild Lights is a walk through the zoo with illuminations adding an extra angle to the usual features of the zoo.  

Last time out the feature was on Stories, Myths and Legends which put a lot of emphasis on educating about endangered and extinct animals before moving on to Irish mythology and famous children’s tales. So you can guarantee that the exhibitions are as educational as they are entertaining.  

This years around the world goes eh around the world with installations inspired by the most iconic landmarks of the world such as the Eiffel Tower, Pyramids of Giza, and more. Sounds like the perfect year for me to visit, and I’m delighted to have my tickets booked. On that subject, they are already very scarce so get booking now.  

Wonder lights at Malahide castle – a new event in 2021 for Christmas in Dublin

A new attraction for 2021 descends on Malahide Castle. Malahide castle is one of the best Dublin day trips any time of year but with Wonder Lights coming this year from 18th November to 23rd December, then maybe Christmas might be the best of all. Light walks are all the rage now it seems, and after last years grand total of none we now have two. Going by the name “Castle of Light” it will have strong links to the castles history and adding enchantment along the way.

We aren’t really sure how this will be, but I’ll be there on the 18^th November and will happily oblige by adding my thoughts, impressions and a ton of photos shortly after. Tickets aren’t as scarce as for Wild Lights, but I imagine that will change closer to the opening date. Book here. As promised here’s an update with photos.

Shopping in Dublin City Centre – Christmas in Dublin

I’m surprised I got this far into a post on Dublin at Christmas time without delving into the shopping. Commercial Dublin won’t be happy with me. Dublin’s city centre is perfect for Christmas shopping; compact, with every gift you could possibly imagine found within reach of it’s main shopping streets. That said it’s hard to deny that online shopping is quickly taking a lot of attention away from the high street.

But there’s something to be said for spending time in the city centre at Christmas. Nothing online compares to the elaborate windows of Arnott’s and Brown Thomas, Dublin’s top department stores. Nor looking across the giant baubles hanging from Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, a centre that looks more magical than any other time of year.

There’s also no substitute for stumbling upon that perfect present on a stroll through Westbury Mall or Georges Street Arcade. Dublin’s shopping is on a par with with any capital city, full of all the popular high street names along with a ton of local boutiques with their own individual identity.

Warm up in a Dublin coffee shop – Dublin at Christmas

After shopping your legs off, the perfect place to unwind and warm up are Dublin’s coffee shops. Bewley’s Café was opened in 1927, and its interior is lavishly decorated with stained glass windows, and art. A hot chocolate and some of their decadent cakes come highly recomended. For those looking for something different Butlers Chocolates have been around Dublin for just as long. They just launched their new range of winter drinks, with Gingerbread Latte’s headlining. You get a free chocolate or truffle with each hot drink too. Their gift boxes make the perfect gifts too, and their chocolate really is out of this world good.

Take a horse and carriage ride through the city  – Christmas in Dublin

Perhaps the most romantic way to see Dublin during the season is by a horse and carriage ride. You’ll find the Jarveys with their horses on the north side of Stephen’s Green, where they operate a first come first served queue. Tours are priced at €25 for a short trip, €40 for a half hour or €70 for an hour. If you want to see the Xmas lights in Dublin’s Southside then a half hour tour should more than suffice. The Jarvey’s will go wherever you ask them, even up Grafton Street for an otherwise unseen view of the lights and Ireland’s premier street.  

Christmas Eve Busking – Dublin at Christmas

Update: I know I say below it’s hard to see this happening. More so now.

It’s hard to know if Dublin’s Christmas Eve busking will return this year. The last time we were treated to it was in 2019, with 2020 seeing an outright ban on busking. While busking is a year round activity on Grafton Street the session which happens on Christmas Eve is anything but. Organised annually by Glen Hansard it has become one of the most eagerly anticipated Dublin December events, with thousands attending.

All proceeds go to charity and Glen is often joined by stars such as Bono, The Edge, Imelda May, Hozier, The Script, Kodaline, The Coronas among others. No one really knows who will show up, and that’s the beauty of the event.  

Want to still help out a local charity even if the busking is cancelled. Then tune into Christmas FM, Ireland’s Christmas radio station and donate. Their charity partner this year is Barnardos, who help vulnerable children in disadvantaged communities. You can donate here.  

Xmas markets in Dublin 

Dublin has had a love hate affair with Christmas markets for many years (they love, the public hates), and has never quite gotten them right. The Dublin Docklands Xmas Market deteriorated until it disappeared. Any attempt to have one around St Stephens Green faded away. A few have kept going such as the Terenure Christmas Market, but it only happens on one day of the year. But perhaps there’s some hope in 2021.

Dun Laoghaire Christmas Market – Christmas markets in Dublin

Update: this won’t take place in 2021.

A favourite that is returning is the Dun Laoghaire Christmas Market which has now been confirmed from November 27^th to December 23^rd. The harbour and town of Dun Laoghaire have always been a great setting, away from the city but full of its own unique hustle, bustle and atmosphere. Packed with all you could hope from a market and it’s stalls, it also has some unique features.

Santa’s arrival is always marked by a night of carol singing so a great night out for family. Not so unique of course. But the 55ft Ferris wheel that was used in the movie Grease is. The market has a full carnival on site too. Personally I enjoy the unique food offerings. It’s about the only place I know where some Hungarian Langos can be picked up in Ireland. Worth the trip out alone.  

Dun Laoghaire is easily reached by Dart from the city, meaning you can enjoy all the fine winter beverages without the worry of driving home.

Mistletown – Christmas markets in Dublin

**Tragic News. This years Mistletown Christmas Market has now also been cancelled.

Mistletown will take place under cover in an old Dublin fruit market, a perfect arrangement considering the volatile Irish weather. On offer will be 80 stalls selling seasonal merchandise, 20 selling food and drinks, and a Victorian fairground experience. It finally seems to be the Christmas market that Dublin has been crying out for. As this is a new attraction (it was planned for 2020 till covid-19 had its say) we can only speculate as to how good the stalls are going to be, but my hopes are high. It will run from December 4^th until December 23^rd 2021.

Dublin Castle Xmas markets – Christmas markets in Dublin

Returning again in 2021 is the Dublin Castle Christmas Market. Well received by all in 2019 it will take place in the grounds of the castle, and run from the 8^th December to 21^st December. Housed in traditional wooden huts the focus is on Irish arts, crafts and food that are in keeping with its majestic surroundings. Also thrown in to the offering is a crib, regular carol singing, a carousel and evening visits to the state apartments of Dublin castle. No Christmas market in Dublin can promise better surroundings than this one, and that brings it closer to what you might be used to in the great cities of Europe.

12 Pubs of Christmas – Christmas in Dublin

Update: so there’s nothing to say you can’t do this, but with only sitting allowed in pubs, where’s the craic.

Visiting a pub in Dublin at Christmas is surely top of everyone’s list. But don’t just visit a pub, why not make a night of it by doing the 12 pubs of Christmas. A tradition which started in Dublin in 1991, sees a group of friends embarking on a pub crawl. The Christmas slant, is that everyone must don their Christmas jumpers, and each pub has a separate rule which must be followed, such as no swearing pub, shots pub, wrong hand pub or don’t touch your own glass pub.

You can follow the rules from this set here, or make up your own. Of course by pub 7 or 8 everything starts to fall apart as the drink takes its toll. Pub 12 is usually only reached by the most battle hardy of drinkers.

For those looking to plan the 12 pubs of Christmas it’s a good idea to pick pubs that are close together. Long walks aren’t the best. It’s worth finding out too if bars will allow groups in that are doing the 12 pubs. They sometimes have policies to refuse them. It’s ok for bar one, but as an owner you wouldn’t want to be bar ten.   

Of course you can enjoy Dublin’s pubs without drinking 12 drinks (and to be socially responsible I suggest you should). The city is full of great pubs that will have a twinkle of Christmas in their eye. Unmissable is the bright shiny façade of the Temple Bar pub. Whatever you need Dublin’s pubs will have it, be it atmosphere, traditional Irish music, excellent food, a good pint of Guinness, or a fancy cocktail.

Ice Skating in Blanchardstown – Dublin at Christmas

Ice skating is synonyms with winter and Christmas for a lot of people. For me it’s synonymous with the time I nearly broke my leg. Anyway. For those who fall into the first group, Ireland’s largest rink Ice Skating Blanchardstown will reopen on 19th November, right on time for silly season. The rink is located next to McDonalds in the Blanchardstown Centre, so would be perfect to team up with your pressie shopping.

Sadly Dundrum on Ice (another favourite of those who aren’t challenged to stay vertical on ice), the rink at Dundrum town centre has been cancelled for 2021. It will return in time for Christmas in Dublin in 2022.

Theatre and Music at Christmas- Christmas in Dublin

Update: Theatres have been badly hit by a reduction in capacity to 50% so this is really hitting the Christmas schedule.

Dublin’s main theatre’s and musical halls also switch into seasonal mode and there’s a wide variety of shows to appease all. The biggest show of the season is the Christmas Panto, and there are none bigger than that at the Gaiety theatre. This year The Little Mermaid is up. It’s as much fun for adults as kids, as some of the jokes are cleverly spun to work on adult ears only.

At the higher brow end are a couple of performances of Holy Night on December 8th and 9th at Christchurch- carols sung by the Cathedrals choir. The very popular carols by candlelight returns to St Patrick’s Cathedral on December 12th. This years performance is by London Concertante for a concert of Christmas Viennese Waltzes. It’s a very popular event too on previous years. The National Concert Hall presents its own Christmas programme, headlined by This Way To Christmas! featuring The Snowman, where the score of the movie and other Christmas favourites will be performed by orchestra from December 21st.

Moving crib – Dublin at Christmas

For 50 years the moving crib in Dublin has been evoking the Christmas spirit. The moving crib was created by Fr Louis Coffey in 1956, and at the time it was really advanced with it’s mechanical moving figures. Even though it’s aged a bit, it’s a part of Christmas history in Dublin. It was refurbished in 2015. It’s not just a crib, there are several bible scenes that are depicted including Noah’s ark, with over 70 mechanical figures. Entry is free and it’s certainly worth dropping in to for the novelty factor.

Live crib at the mansion house – Christmas in Dublin

A nativity scene of a different kind takes pride of place in front of the Mansion House. A yearly live crib is set up here, featuring donkeys and goats. Thankfully no babies are used. It’s definitely one to take the little ones to, to learn the other story of Christmas and see the animals. Donations are welcome on site to help the Mansion House Fuel Fund.

Christmas at Farmleigh – Dublin at Christmas

Farmleigh in Dublin’s Phoenix Park puts on its own programme to celebrate Christmas. The house at Farmleigh is a fine estate, used to house dignitaries when they visit the Irish state. Running on weekends only in 2021, the festivities include storytelling, magic and puppet shows for the kids. Add horse and carriage rides, a live crib, and carol singers providing a festive atmosphere to the weekend food market, and you just might have one of the best locations in Dublin at Christmas. This years live act is the Mellow Chords, providing barber shop melodies. Farmleigh is one of the harder places to reach in Dublin, so a car is recommended to get there.

Airfield estate at Christmas – Christmas in Dublin

The Christmas Experience at Airfield in Dundrum is so popular that it’s already fully booked for 2021. Aimed specifically at little ones, it’s highlight is a visit to Santa. However, there is tons more, as a walk through the grounds follow three characters in their quest to get home for Christmas. Along the way they visit workshops to teach origami, some great photo opportunities in Santa’s workshop and sleigh.

For adults mulled wine is served to warm up, and add a little excitement to their own visit. The Airfield Estate works on a sustainable ethos so all gifts and costumes are from natural materials and mostly free from plastic. While there’s no chance to visit there year, it’s one to plan ahead for Christmas in Dublin in 2022.

Christmas Racing at Leopardstown- Dublin at Christmas

Stuck for something to do other than spending Christmas eating turkey sandwiches and watching reruns of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang? Then a trip to the Christmas racing meeting at Leopardstown might be just the outing you need. The four day meeting has been happening for nearly 130 years. It begins on St Stephens Day and runs until the 29th of December. The biggest race of the whole festival is the Paddy Power Chase on the 27th. The 28th is Ladies Day, so get those hats out. The final day is a more family-centric day with under 18’s going for free. The race meetings are ever popular and tickets go quick, so book at Leopardstown.com.

Funderland – Christmas in Dublin

Update: it doesn’t look good for Funderland this year.

Another event that is a long running Dublin Christmas event is Funderland. It also begins after the Christmas celebrations. After cancelling in 2020 due to restrictions, it should return to the RDS for this season. Funderland usually runs daily from 26th December until the second week of January. Touted as the largest travelling amusement park in Europe, it’s one for those with a more iron stomach than me. Let me at the 12 pubs instead any day. It features rollercoasters and a heap of other rides that will keep thrill seekers happy, and challenge Christmas leftovers to stay down.

Staying in Dublin

Dublin has a broad selection of accommodation catering for all budgets. Many of its city centre hotels are 4 or 5 stars, and the standards are high. The Dublin 2 area has the highest rates, followed by Dublin 1. For a more economical option, the hotels in the affluent Dublin 4 and 6 areas offer good quality at a lower rate, with excellent transport links to the city.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Looking for more things to do in Ireland and Northern Ireland? Visit my Ireland in Focus page for a great list of itineraries and tips.

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We at CarpeDiemEire have to admit that we love Halloween. Maybe it’s the close links to Irish culture. Maybe it’s the memories from childhood, dressed up as Darth Vader, in the shadow of a bonfire. Whatever it may be, I’ve always had a likening to ghoulish tales and ghosts stories. When better to share the best of haunted Ireland than in the spirited week itself.

Halloween in Ireland

There’s hardly a better place to focus on at Halloween. After all it’s where the idea first took hold. Many Millennia ago, it began as An Samhain, the Irish word for Autumn. An Samhain celebrated the competition of the harvest and the beginning of winter, and bonfires would be lit atop the hills around the country. This tradition continues in Ireland to this present day, with bonfires still a feature.

Trick-r-Treating is also believed to have started in Middle Ages Scotland or Ireland. Many theories surround this one, but dressing up in exchange for food was always the motive. Of course the food has been replaced by candy nowadays.

Then there’s the tradition of Jack-o-lantern’s in the window. So this story goes back to a guy called Stingy Jack. Stingy Jack invited the devil for a drink and tricked the devil into turning himself into a coin to pay for the drink. A year later the devil returned and Jack convinced him to climb a tree. Jack carved a cross in the tree, and released the devil ten years later on the condition he wouldn’t claim Jack’s soul.

When Jack finally succumbed to death, god said he wouldn’t have him in heaven. With nowhere left to go Jack was left to wander Ireland. Fearful of him, people would light a candle and place it in a turnip to scare him away, thus creating the tradition. When the Irish moved to America, they continued it with the more plentiful pumpkins.

The Most Haunted Castles in Ireland

Leap Castle – Ireland’s most haunted castle

In search of the most haunted castle in Ireland? Then look no further than Leap Castle. This midlands owner occupied castle has a turbulent history and counts about 50 ghosts as it’s residents. These include the dreaded Elemental, a ghost of sunken eyes and a transparent body, and the red lady, a menacing specter carrying a dagger and screaming. But perhaps the most unusual story is it’s other permanent residents, the Ryan’s. This family call the castle home, in full knowledge of those who they share with.

It’s a story that had to be told by itself, and I suggest you to read about Leap Castle and my own visit. The bloody chapel was one of the most unique places I’ve ever visited. Paranormal investigators and ghost hunters have a long history of seeking out spirits here.

Charleville Castle

Charleville castle is a wonderful structure outside the midland town of Tullamore. However a shadow was cast over it when in 1861 an 8 year old girl called Harriet (who was the daughter of the 3rd Earl of Charleville), decided to slide down the banister of the stairs. She lost her grip and in doing so also lost her life. She can still be felt brushing past on the stairs and at night the screams, laughter and singing of a little girl can be heard echoing in the night.

Malahide Castle

As well as being the most impressive of Dublin’s castles, Malahide Castle holds another prestigious title. Dublin’s most haunted castle. While it’s 5 ghosts can’t compare to that of Leap Castle, I think it’s enough isn’t it. There’s Myles Corbett, whose hung, drawn and quartered body is known to saunter around, only to collapse at his quartered seams. A pretty sight I’m sure.

My personal favourite is Puck, the court jester who fell in love with a lady. This was before the days of Meghan and Harry, and sadly not acceptable. Puck was stabbed outside the castle, and with his dying words, promised to haunt the castle. He is often seen in photographs of visitor. Perhaps you might find him in mine from my visit this year!

Kilkenny Castle

Kilkenny Castle is the stronghold of the Butler family for hundreds of years. Being one of Ireland’s most powerful families, allowed them to construct this stunning structure. To this day one of the Butlers still patrols her home. The White Lady that haunts this castle is believed to be Lady Margaret Butler, who lived in the 15th century. She was also the grandmother of Anne Boleyn. I guess a string of misfortune must be present on that side of the family.

Leamaneh Castle

This creepy ruin is haunted by the ghost of Red Mary. While the castle can’t be visited as it’s on private land it’s easy to visualise that haunting is a strong possibility here. It certainly looks like Ireland’s most haunted castle. Couple that with the story of Red Mary, a woman of large personality. No man or enemy stood in her way. With a string of dead husbands in her wake, she finally met her comeuppance by being starved to death in a hollowed out tree. Take a read of her full life story here, and if you wonder why she might be still here trying to bring terror, I’m worried about you.

Kilkea Castle

Kilkea Castle now operates as a stylist castle hotel, but of course it wasn’t always as such. Once upon a time it was the stronghold of the Fitzgerald Family. Their history was mostly one without incident, with the exception of one spell in the 16th century. Around this time Gerald Fitzgerald took his place at the head of the family.

This Fitzgerald was different and was believed to have practiced magic by superstitious locals. He earned himself the title the Wizard Earl. Four centuries later the Wizard Earl is said to still come riding on horseback from the nearby Curragh, on the seventh day, of the seventh month, of the seventh year. Hoping to see that sight? Then let me entice you further with my stay there in 2020.

Castle Roche

This ruin outside the town of Dundalk in Louth hides a story of deception. With the castle in a poor state, the lady of the time Rohesia De Verdon, asked a local builder to rebuild it to its former grandeur. In exchange she would marry him. Alas Rohesia had no intention of doing so. When the work was complete, the builder stood proudly before a window high up in the castle wall.

Seizing her opportunity with a little push, she ended her promise to the builder. Death has a way of doing that. Both heartbroken and body broken, the builder haunts the area under the window with his moans. The castle is in a lovely green field, and would make a lovely campsite for those brave enough.

Dunluce Castle

This beautiful and haunting ruin is one of the main attractions on the causeway coastal route in Northern Ireland. It has a fine history, first settled by the MacQuillan family around 1500. The MacDonnell’s then followed but were forced out by the English. They retaliated and climbing the cliff face to the castle, defeated the English and hung the captain. You guessed it, he’s a-haunting here now.

But he’s not alone, before you start to be concerned for him. Maeve Roe was the daughter of Lord MacQuillan, and fell in love with a rogue. Her father wanted her to marry her cousin or someone, but she wasn’t having any of it. The rogue came one night for her and they escaped by boat. Alas their elopement ended in tears, the boat capsized and though the rogues body was found, they never found that of Maeve. She haunts the castle tower with screams and wails on dark stormy nights.

Then there’s the cooks who are said to have fallen with the kitchen into the sea. Do they return to prep a ghostly banquet? Or fill the castle with the smells of venison and wild boar?

Clifden Castle

Clifden Castle is a ruin on the Wild Atlantic Way in Galway. Only built in the 19th century, it quickly fell into ruin as the famine hit Ireland in the 1840’s. Both the landlord and his tenants were devastated. The tenants gathered in the castle lawn looking for food, but sadly there was none to give. It is said they died here in horrible conditions from starvation. They can still be seen in the area, ghostly and ghastly reminders of their true selves.

Ross Castle

No this isn’t the beautiful castle set on the shores of the Killarney Lakes. It’s a far more sinister place in County Meath on the shores of Lough Sheelin. Built by Richard Nugent in 1536, he was known as the Black Baron. Presumably due to the colour of his heart! The Black Baron himself is said to haunt the place.

However the more seen ghost here is his daughter Sabrina. Falling in love with a poor Irish lad, they decided to elope by boat. Will they ever learn? This always ends in tears. So it did this time too. Sabrina survived but her love did not.

Brokenhearted, Sabrina refused to eat and locked herself in a tower till she succumbed to death. You lucky people can still spend one night in Sabrina’s room, as the castle is now a fully functional B&B. But don’t worry, she’s only searching for her lover in the tower. She means no harm.

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Carrickfergus Castle

Still standing strong in the Ulster town of Carrickfergus, this castle has had a strong part to play in Irish history. It was built by John De Courcy a Norman lord in the 12th century. It was also the landing point of William III before the instrumental Battle of the Boyne in 1690. But our story concerns Button Cap, the resident ghost, who stands guard on the walls awaiting a battle.

In life he was a great soldier who fought valiantly against the MacDonnells of Dunluce. Earning himself a sterling reputation, it all came to an abrupt end as he fell from a boat he travelled on not far from the coast. These Irish waters are a dangerous place. I guess he didn’t have enough battles in life so he seeks them in death too.

Kinnitty Castle

What better way to see if a castle is haunted than by staying in one. I recommend a long winter night, and keeping the light off, to ensure the perfect conditions. By the time the witching hour comes around you should surely be seeing something. Apparently the Geraldine and Elizabeth rooms in Kinnitty Castle in Offaly would be perfect for this. Both are known to be haunted.

The castle was rebuilt in 1929 after being burned down by the IRA, but seems to have retained its ghosts. One in particular is a monk called Hugh, who is said to communicate with an employee. Don’t be alarmed if you see that. He’s friendly and only usually appears during a celebration. Maybe he’s the original wedding crasher.

Ballygally Castle

Another castle where you can overnight in without freezing your ass off is the Ballygally Castle hotel. Located in County Antrim, its ghost has been there for 400 years. The ghost is that of Lady Isabella Shaw. When she birthed a son in to her husband Lord Shaw, he locked her in a tower of the castle. Now that’s love for you. While trying to escape she plummeted to her death.

She’s often heard walking the castle by guests, or making a racket in a room. But the hotel are confident she is a friendly one, and advise guests not to mind the green mist that sometimes envelopes the castle.

Cabra Castle

In line with my theory that every castle seems to have its own ghost story in Ireland, here’s another castle hotel with one. The life of a servant girl was a better one than one could hope for living in their own family home back in the 18th century. For some Sarah, in this case, it’s even got the opportunity for love. But when the person you fall in love with, and get pregnant by is the son of the owner, you can guarantee it’s not going to be a story of pumpkins and lost slippers in real life.

Getting wind of what happened. the family took Sarah out into the woods and hung her. So sets the scene for our haunting, and now the cries of a baby can be heard in the woods and near the hanging tree, which still stands. Guests have also reported a man dressed in full military uniform, in what was once voted the second scariest hotel in the world on tripadvisor.

Castle Leslie

There’s one more addition to the haunted castles in Ireland list that has become a hotel. Castle Leslie’s most famous room is the redrum, sorry Red Room. Believed to be a bridge between life and death, children of the Leslie family were born here, and those about to die appeared here. Consider the classic case of Norman Leslie, who appeared before Marjorie Leslie. He was reading some letters, before turning to smile at her and vanish. A day later he died on the battlefields of France in World War I. His ghost is said to still linger in the room.

Haunted houses and places in Ireland

Ducketts Grove

This mansion outside of Carlow is the very definition of a haunted house. With its towers and turrets and vast emptiness it’s perfect for a haunting. So where better place to find a banshee, the most ghastly of all Irish ghosts. The story has it that William Duckett who built the Ducketts Grove mansion in 1830, had an illicit affair with a young girl. When she suffered a horse riding accident, her mother put a piseog on the family, an ancient curse. This brought ruin to them financially and it’s how the estate eventually fell into disrepair.

There are many stories here of the dreaded wails of the banshee being heard right before the death of loved ones of the castles employees. The ghosts of the Ducketts have also been seen, as well as servants in the kitchen. Ducketts Grove really has the ghosts to back up it’s appearance. Ducketts Grove is the most haunted house in ireland, and an essential stop on a road trip to Kilkenny.

Loftus House

The story of Loftus House in Wexford is one of the more famed Irish ghost stories. Charles Tottenham invites a stranger into his house on a dark stormy night. His daughter Anne Tottenham became besotted with him. However one day as the played cards, Anne dropped one of hers. To her horror as she attempted to pick it up, she discovered the stranger had a cloven hoof. Yes you guessed it, it was old Nick himself. The devil flew straight through the roof of the house upon his discovery.

Charles was dismayed, not least because his insurance didn’t cover act of devil, but also because his daughter Anne suffered an incurable shock. She descended into madness. Left with no choice but to lock her up, she soon after died. Anne walks the floors even since that day in 1775, in anguish. Loftus House is nowadays one of the best haunted house tours in the country. The house is currently on the market, the pros are it’s own private beach, the cons being its own private ghost.

Wicklow Gaol

Billed as one of the most haunted Irish buildings, it’s no surprise as gaol’s aren’t exactly the most pleasant of places. A whole host of stories are attached to the place, and many visions have happened. These include a woman clad in a full length black velvet cloak found walking on the ground floor, a man walking from cell 19 to the end of the walkway, strange goings on in cell 13, and a whole host of other sightings. Add to that a lingering smell of apples, and a green mist that appears from nowhere, and it all adds up to a well haunted building.

Kilmainham Gaol

This is one of the best Dublin tourist attractions. Many wronged people ended up here, for petty crimes such as stealing some bread. Is it any wonder it would have a few spooks? The Gaol seems to be more the scene of a classic haunting than a particular ghost. Since it’s renovations workers profess of strange happenings like lights turning on and off, footsteps in the dark, and being knocked over by a force. Personally I would expect nothing less from a ghost.

Hellfire Club

This ominous building in the Dublin mountains, is a popular hiking area for Dubs. But it’s past is shrouded in mystery. The hunting lodge as it was originally, was built atop a cairn, an ancient burial mound. That’s a serious red flag in any horror movie. The building was sold in 1735 to a group known as the Hellfire Club.

They were outsiders from decent society, engaging in alcohol and sex in their wild parties. Sounds a bit like university to me. Less like uni was their practice of black magic and the dark arts, and their attempts to summon the devil.

Stories still spread like wildfire about them. Did they set fire to a servant girl and roll her down Montpellier Hill at the Hellfire Club? Did they after many attempts finally succeed in summoning the devil himself at this very place. Subsequently did the devil blow the roof off, as historical texts seems to corroborate?

As one of the best places to watch the sunset in Dublin, its an ideal place to test if its still haunted by hanging around as day turns to night. Though you are more likely to be another victim of the Hellfire Club while walking back down the mountain side.

The Crossroads Suicide Plot

Though it looks innocuous in this modern day with an advertising hoarding and a couple of passive benches, the crossroads at Clonliffe Road and Ballybough Road in Dublin, covers up a dark and shady past. During the 18th and 19th century it served as a suicide plot, where those that had taken their own life were laid to rest. They were not permitted to be buried on consecrated ground.

As was the practice at the time, a stake was used to transfix the bodies, to stop their unhappy souls from wandering about. Any thoughts on who this may have inspired? A certain Bram Stoker lived in nearby Clontarf.

This area was known as Mud Island at the time and had a tough reputation. Highwaymen were common, and there was much crime. One such highwayman was Larry Clinch, who met his end in 1806 after a shootout. It came at the end of a rope. His body was then left at the suicide plot for all to see. Thereafter many tales were told of a mysterious horseman riding at night down the street, believed to be the spiteful ghost of Larry.

The Brazen Head

This bar in Dublin claims to be Ireland’s oldest. A less claimed story is its ghost one. A lad by the name of bold Robert Emmet used to call this his watering hole. That is, till he was executed. Coincidently his executioner also frequented the Brazen Head. Robert Emmet can be seen lurking in the shadows, trying to find the one who wronged him. Would you stop by here for a pint of the black stuff when you travel to Dublin?

13 Henrietta Street

When I think of about a haunted tenement building in my mind, this creepy AF building is exactly what’s in there. Now derelict, this former slum was the scene of an exorcism a century ago. The woman clearly didn’t get over it too well, as her ghost can often be seen in the windows looking out. Is it any wonder it’s derelict when the owners came home to that? I know I’d be packing. I thought I saw her myself but it turned out to be a mannequin. The next time you pass I dare you to look up at the windows.

Rathmichael Cemetery Dublin

This is one that doesn’t often make haunted lists. In fact it barely makes the maps. Located a few minutes from the Dublin Mountain Way, this old cemetery dates back as far as the vikings. At its centre are the ruins of an old church and round tower. Scattered headstones tell of centuries of local residents.

However from the moment I crossed the stile a prevailing sense of dread filled me. Nature has overgrown the place, and a sense of abandonment is felt of the souls within. In the distance an animal filled the air with a scream. Was it a chicken? What’s wrong with that chicken? Was it a banshee?

I had come here not to see the graveyard, nor the church but by the promise of a skull hole. What exactly was a skull hole? My instinct pointed to the bottom part of the round tower. That or the account I had read online. As time progressed over the years, under soil movements caused the bones of some of the deceased to rise above the ground.

Rather than disturb the relations and visitors, they threw the bones in the first place they could think of to hide them. The base of the round tower. Unable to resist my curiosity, I scaled the side and looked in. Alas the bones were no more. But don’t let that take away from this haunted place. Of all on this list, it’s the one that left me with the most unease.

Charles Fort

This British fort was built to defend against attack from sea, and brought hardship to the people of Kinsale in Cork. But it was not without its own hardship within. At some point during its occupation in the 1870’s, the daughter of the Fort Commander was due to marry one of the officers. However her father shot her loved one in error, and his daughter leaped into the sea in despair. The lonely fort has since being haunted by a White Lady, the ghost of the commander’s daughter, all clad out in her wedding dress. Charles Fort is a must visit in the town of Kinsale.

Halloween is more than haunted castles and houses

I hope I’ve gotten you into the Halloween mood. If so you can continue it into the week. Love horror movies as much as I do? Then maybe I can inspire you with my list of 66 horror movies that will give you a good scare over on IMDB. I suggest after all these ghost stories you start with The Woman in Black.

If horror movies aren’t your thing, then I have just the tonic in some Halloween anthems. Take a listen to my playlist of the best spooky and fun music for this time of year,

If you want to learn more about Ireland, then you’ve come to the right place. The Ireland travel section of this blog is an excellent resource on castles, hiking, road trips, and innumerate travel tips about Ireland. Follow the link here.

Cities such as London, Bristol, and Berlin definitely lead the way with their long established scenes. What’s amazing to see is the growth of street art in cities not typically associated with the art form. Street art is exploding across Europe now, and more and more people appreciating the way it transforms their hometowns. It all means good news for us, the traveller.

Street art tourism is alive and well. Factoring in a day of exploring a well worn route or simply getting lost in a street art neighbourhood, is now becoming a must on any city break itinerary. What city will you see next?

The 30 Best Cities to see Street Art in Europe

Waterford, Ireland

Waterford might not be the first city name on everyone’s lips where street art in Europe is concerned, but I suggest it’s time to sit up and pay attention. The Waterford Walls festival is an annual event in August inviting the best of Ireland and the world to come and paint the cities walls.

The committee from Waterford Walls, led by Edel have done a tremendous job attracting so much talent. As it’s a small city, the result is there’s never a colourful wall far from you. Which means it’s great for wandering and seeing what you can find. Of course, you can follow my street by street guided tour.

The art starts from grassroots level thanks to local workshops, to Waterford’s own Coilfhionn Hanton who paints annually. Some of the most vibrant murals are as the result of Dan Leo, Curtis Hylton, Monkey Bird and Dan Kitchner who all brought their very distinctive work to the city. All artists are encouraged to paint as they wish, but many chose to draw from the history and fauna of Waterford.

One mural caught my eye prior to my visit and upon seeing first hand thoroughly lived up to expectations. Entitled Sonny, by the South African artist of the same name. The artist blends fantasy with the natural world in his work. The full wall features a girl in feather headdress with a white tiger. It’s wonderful.

Waterford is 2 hours from Dublin by both road and train and a must visit for street art fans.

Derry

By Tom from Travel Past 50

All along Rossville Street, in Bogside, Derry, Northern Ireland, are murals painted by a trio of artists collectively known as The Bogside Artists.

Tom Kelly, his brother William Kelly, and Kevin Hasson started painting the murals in 1993 to illustrate the “Troubles” in Northern Ireland, particularly those in Derry, which culminated on “Bloody Sunday” when, on January 30, 1972, British paratroopers killed 13 unarmed demonstrators.

The images are sometimes taken from photos taken on Bloody Sunday and during the “Battle of the Bogside.” Others are pure commemorations of hope, such as a dove on an oak leaf, symbolizing, at last, peace in Derry.

With supplies donated from local residents, the Bogside Artists painted the murals on the walls of Rossville Street buildings. From 1994 to 2008, they painted a total of twelve murals on this street in the Bogside, which they named The People’s Gallery.

The People’s Gallery spans the entire length of Rossville Street, which runs through the center of the Bogside, an entire street devoted to the history in art form of over three decades of political conflict.

Christiania Freetown in Copenhagen

by Anda from Travel for a While 

Christiania Freetown is a self-proclaimed independent area on Danish territory, within Copenhagen to be exact. It is home to less than 1000 people. Most of them are creative characters in search of a different life. They have a flag, a currency, and a voting system where every citizen takes part in the commune’s decisions.

One of the main reasons to visit Christiania is some amazing street art. You don’t need a map, it is literally all over the place. The abandoned military buildings of the area needed some color indeed. Also, the locals are blessed with a vivid, happy imagination. The skatepark inside Christiania Freetown is called Wonderland, and you couldn’t find a more suitable name for the place.

One of the most representative murals was done in 2016 by 5 artists. It represents the never-ending forest of purple Cats and 3D graffiti. Danish artist Rasmus Balstroem got together with Welin, Tonek, and 5.7 Crew.

Rasmus Balstroem is an incredible artist from Copenhagen who likes using freestyle drawing techniques. The two French artists from Montepellier, Sebastien (Sweo) and Marlene (Nikita) form the 5.7 Crew. Nikita likes to paint women in a warrior or fantasy style, while Sweo masters 3D letter-paintings.

Tonek is also a Danish artist. Tattoo art is his main thing, but he also enjoys graffiti and painting murals.

Andreas Welin is another Copenhagen-based artist. He worked extensively on murals spread from Melbourne, Australia to New York.

When these artists came together, they created an amazing mural that features all of their styles. Moreover, it captures the true Wonderland spirit of Christania.

Dundalk, Ireland

By John from CarpeDiemEire

Dundalk is the new pretender to Ireland’s street art throne. Following the same plan to attract talent, Dundalk runs an annual festival knows as Seek Dundalk. It only began in 2019, as a result of a collaboration between Dundalk Graffiti Artist and Graphic Designer Barry Finnegan (Omin) and Dundalk Town Centre Commercial Manager Martin McElligott. It’s aim of course was to make Dundalk, an outdoor art gallery.

They succeeded. Considering two of those years were hit by Covid restrictions, it’s quite amazing the amount of new works that have appeared. Dundalk is by no means a large city, and all of the art is within a stones throw of its main avenues.

Some of the legendary artists who have come to Dundalk and left their mark are Omin himself, Aches, James Earley, Fris, Claire Provost and Basik. This week, Ireland’s tallest mural was added by Smug, the world famous Australian artist,m. Standing 40 metres high on the Crowne Plaza hotel it depicts Lu, the god of light from Irish mythology. It promised to be another spectacular draw to Dundalk.

Our favourite piece was on Edward Bruce the disputed last High King of Ireland. He died at the Hill of Faughart not far from Dundalk. Using Aches special techniques of blending colour in a 3-d effect, the mural is astounding.

Keep an eye on Dundalk, it is destined to be among the best street art cities in Europe.

Street Art in Europe – Warsaw

By Or from My Path in the World 

Warsaw might not come to mind when thinking about European street art cities, but the Polish capital will not disappoint you. As a city of which 80% got destroyed during WWII, Warsaw makes a huge effort to preserve its history and heritage while also becoming more modern.

While you’ll find a mix of the traditional and modern on both sides of the Vistula River, it is on the eastern side of it, in the unique district of Praga, where most of the street art is found. Surprisingly, only 20% of this area was destroyed during WWII, so you can admire pre-war buildings alongside colorful murals and 21st-century townhouses.

Many of the murals in the city were created by different artists (both Polish and non-Polish), so each piece has its own style. Some of them are not to be missed, including ‘Eastern Warsaw’ by Sebas Velasco, ‘Playground’ by Ernest Zacharevic, ‘Warsaw Fight Club’ by Conor Harrington, and my favorite – ‘Ania.’

When you first look at ‘Ania,’ it looks so colorful and romantic that it immediately wins you over. But then you hear that it was created as a part of an advertisement produced for McDonald’s, which can be slightly disappointing, though it doesn’t take away from the piece’s beauty.

To fully enjoy and learn more about the local street art scene, one of the best things to do in Warsaw is to take a free walking tour in Praga, though you’ll also find some more murals in the neighborhood of Muranów.

Budapest

By John from CarpeDiemEire

Budapest’s offering as a street art city comes in the form of large murals, perhaps a recognition that it doesn’t have the history of some of the more famous city in that respect.

To visit most of the best murals pay a visit to the Jewish Quarter. You will anyway, it’s where the ruin bars are as well as the Dohany Street Synagogue. You can’t leave Budapest without having seen them, or in the case of the former, falling out of them. The Jewish district is as trendy as it gets in Budapest, so no surprise the street art is at its best there.

Wandering the streets of what was once the Hungarian Ghetto, you’ll find works by artists Dan Ferrer, Okuda San Miguel, the group Neopaint, Breakeone, and Cekas. Since 2008 the Colourful City Organisation have been responsible for bringing excellent artists here to ply their trade.

A particular standout is Alice by Spanish artist Dan Ferrer. In a car park on Kertesz Ut, we find Alice trapped in a small house in a bleak landscape, bruised and frightened. Carrying a message that children are our future and need to be nurtured, it’s brutally effective.

Just one of many murals to be found on a Budapest itinerary.

Lennon Wall in Prague

By Nina of Nina Out and About

One of the best street art cities in Europe is Prague.

The city is home to exceptional culture, having endured decades of communism and now a thriving democracy. You’ll find evidence of ancient kings at the Prague Castle, communist rule in demolished statues, and the flourishing free speech in its newer street art pieces. Within the city, there is a spinning head exhibit that is every shifting, just like human thoughts. But outside the city is a unique piece of art: the Kutna Hora Bone Church. The church was literally constructed from human remains, down to a chandelier with every bone from the human body.

The best spot for street art in Prague is undoubtedly at the Lennon Wall.

The wall began as an illegal graffiti wall during the communist reign. People began to paint on it to express themselves.

It started with small murals and doodles.

But the day that John Lennon died, it all changed.

The next morning, a giant mural dedicated to John Lennon went up on the wall. It featured the singer’s face and the addition of lyrics.

As the communist regime continued on, the wall became a way for the locals to express their frustration with the government and to express their desire for freedom.

While the original John Lennon portrait is long lost – especially since the government would repaint the wall frequently during the communist era – the wall continues to be a sign of hope.

Every time you visit, the wall will be different. Literally from one day to the next, the small signs for peace and pretty images will morph into something new thanks to a new addition.

You’ll easily stand there examining the wall for hours. Many buskers take advantage and play Beatles music in front of the mural. So bring a coffee and a few spare coins to tip the buskers as you soak in this gorgeous street art.

Manchester

By Helen from Helen on her Holidays

Manchester, in north west England, is a fantastic place to visit if you’re interested in street art. The city, in particular the Northern Quarter and Ancoats areas, has a history in recent decades of attracting some of the world’s best art talent to decorate its streets with murals, sculpture and mosaics.

The Northern Quarter part of Manchester used to be an area full of abandoned Victorian mills and warehouses until the 1990s, when it gradually became the most fashionable part of town, full of bars, loft apartments and alternative shops. It’s always been an area with its own character, and even its own font, which appears on street names and on the slabs in the pavement of Tib Street, where you can read the poem Flags by Lemn Sissay.

Manchester took part in the Cities of Hope street art festival in 2016, attracting nine street artists from around the world, including Nomad Clan (Cbloxxx and AYLO). Nomad Clan recently returned to Manchester to replace their Cities of Hope piece with a new work, Make Do Mend, which celebrates the city’s textile heritage.

In contrast to the large pieces which last for years, the Out House in Stevenson Square has a higher turnover of works that often appear spontaneously in response to news events, such as the death of David Bowie, the killing of George Floyd (both pieces by Akse) and the Manchester Arena bombing (by Qubek).

On a lighter note, a Manchester favourite is the giant blue tit on Newton Street, which was created by Faunagraphic in 2011 in a partnership with Converse.

Ljubljana

By Nicole from GoFarGrowClose.com

Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia. Ljubljana Old Town is a large historical district with pedestrian-only walking zones along cobblestone streets. You can find small boutique hotels along these paths that offer elegant rooms and old world charm. In addition, there are beautiful medieval churches scattered throughout and the imposing 12th Century Ljubljana Castle perched over top. If you are looking for the perfect old-world European experience, this is the place for you.

In striking contrast, after a short walk over The Ljubljana River, you find yourself in run down areas filled with squatters and spectacular street art. First, there is Rog Factory, a former bicycle manufacturing plant, where artists squat and produce fabulous paintings and sculptures making political or cultural statements.

A little farther along, you come across Metelkova, an independent social and cultural centre. It was formerly the military headquarters of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, then the Slovenian headquarters of the Yugoslav National Army. After Slovenia became independent, it was supposed to become a government sanctioned alternative art scene.

When that didn’t happen, the squatters moved in and became a vibrant artistic and cultural spot. To learn all about the history of Slovenia, specifically post independence, the evolution of the street art scene, and about the amazing murals and artists, consider taking a walking tour called Ljubljana Alternative Tour offered by Ljubljana Urban Tours. It is one of the best things to do in Ljubljana.

Berlin

By Ali from Berlin Travel Tips

Berlin is one of the best cities in the world for street art. The city is known for art and creativity, and street art has become an important part of the landscape. Some pieces commissioned works while others are illegally done.

Although you can find street art all over the city, Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg are two of the best neighborhoods to explore for impressive art. Of course there’s the East Side Gallery, a long stretch of the Berlin Wall that is now covered in art. This is one of the best free things to do in Berlin, especially if you’re interested in street art. 

Not far from there is the RAW-Gelände. This former train repair station now has restaurants, clubs, beer gardens, a flea market, and lots of street art. Here you’ll find pieces by Felix and Matthias, Marina Zumi, Ostap, Shepard Fairey, and more. The Urban Spree Art Gallery, which focuses entirely on street art, is also located here.

Across the river in Kreuzberg, you can follow the U1/U3 Ubahn tracks and detour a little here and there to see more famous pieces. There are several from Blu, ROA, Os Gemeos, Victor Ash, and more. 

One of the more interesting pieces here is a mural of dead or dying animals, a statement on how nature is dying as a result of over-urbanization around the world. Another famous piece worth checking out here is the Astronaut by Victor Ash. 

In western Kreuzberg, you can also visit the Urban National Museum. This fairly new addition to the Berlin art scene is dedicated to street art and has new artwork painted on the outside on a regular basis. 

Street art is easy to explore on your own. But a street art tour can give you loads of interesting information about the art and help you enjoy it more.

Stockholm

Dhara from It’s Not About the Miles

If you are a fan of public art, you will love Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, which is home to what is considered the longest art gallery in the world. 

Stockholm’s subway art is famous, not only for its color and scale, but also for the underlying themes of diversity, inclusion, and other social causes. Many of the city’s more than 100 subway stations feature stunning art, with entire tunnels covered in color. 

One of the most beautiful stations you can visit is Kungstradgarden, where the ceilings feature colorful art. At Fridhemsplan, you can view cool and quirky robot art. At Hallonbergen, child art with stick figures and childhood themes will captivate you. 

While Stockholm’s subway art is internationally renowned, it also features traditional street art in its various districts. 

Snosatra, Stockholm’s graffiti park, is the largest in Europe and a great place to visit if you are interested in street art but have limited time in the city. Here you can see the works of some of the city’s most well-known street artists such as Mogul and Huge.

If you enjoy the work of Os Gemeos, the Brazilian twins that have created gigantic murals in various cities across the world, you will find one in Stockholm to view! The mural, located in Fiskargatan, depicts persons created in their typical style, with beautiful colors.

Best Street Art Cities in Europe — Kyiv

Contributed by Inessa Rezanova, image by Natalie Rezanova, Through a Travel Lens Blog

Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, is eastern Europe’s heart of street art. First murals appeared in the city fairly recently — after the revolution of 2014, and initially, the locals were not all that thrilled.

But the outrage over what was perceived as vandalism of public property turned into admiration as soon as the first murals — among them, the iconic girl in traditional Ukrainian clothes — turned a few bleak buildings of the capital into colorful impressions of what today’s Ukraine is.

A mix of modern architecture and historic buildings of the 19th century, Kyiv has its fair share of Soviet apartment buildings. These are not exactly what most of the Ukrainians are fond of and much to the pleasure of the locals, it is these houses that became the canvases and main inspiration for the local artists as well as for the artists around the world. 

The capital’s arguably most popular mural — “The Girl in Vyshyvanka” — was created by the Australian artist, Guido van Helten. A dedication to Ukrainian women, this 53-meter long depiction of a young girl in traditional Ukrainian clothes almost made it to the Guinness World Records as the biggest European mural. Drawn on a wall of a building at Lesya Ukraininka street, it is now one of the area’s highlights.

As the artists continue to flock to Kyiv to paint the walls of the capital’s buildings, there are now plenty of beautiful murals in the historic center — the old town of Podil, as well as in the busy business area in Pechersk. Great street art can be spotted not only downtown but also in remote areas of the city. Fans of murals should also include areas like Obolon and Left Bank to the list of places to visit in Kyiv to enjoy the vibrant street art.

Rotterdam

By Zoe from Together in Transit

One cool place to find street art in Europe is the city of Rotterdam in the Netherlands. Unlike the rest of the Netherlands, Rotterdam is a unique city to visit due to its modern architecture. However, it still has many quirky locations with hidden gems and industrial street art locations. 

You may think there is one specific location for a city, but Rotterdam actually has many spots that you can explore and view the street art across the city. Some popular locations include street art at the Witte de Wit street, the Centraal station area and near an old factory called Maassilo in Rotterdam South. 

The best way to enjoy all these locations as well as find the hidden gems is to use the Rewriters010 street art or take a tour with them, where they provide interesting walks about each piece of art work during a walk. Many of the artists are Dutch, but there are also some international artists that have special pieces in the city too. Some artists to name are: Bier en Brood, Dan Botlek, I Am Eelco, TelmoMiel and Mark Goss.

For the last few years, the PowWow street art festival has also held an event here. During the weekend there are live graffiti artists completing their new artwork in the city as well as on cars and vans. There are tours available to walk along many of the street art routes to learn more as well as activities at the event location.

My favourite personal photo is a piece by I Am Eelco in gorgeous purples, yellows and greens. His style has always been one of my favourites from Rotterdam due to the overlapping style and animals pictured in the artwork.

Reykjavik

By Darlene from Thirsty Journeys

Reykjavík, Iceland has a wealth of colourful and thought-provoking street art. The majority of its murals are located in Reykjavík’s downtown (or “Old Town”), making a self-guided walking tour of many of the murals very easy to do in an afternoon.

Some of the murals were commissioned by local businesses, while others are the result of a bigger project called Wall Poetry. This project was a collaborative effort between Urban Nation, a contemporary art collective based in Berlin, and Iceland Airwaves, Iceland’s largest music festival. Ten musicians performing at the 2015 Iceland Airwaves festival provided song titles, lyrics, quotes, stories, or poetry that influenced their music to ten artists working on the murals. The initiative was a way of connecting music and art – an initiative that was so well-received, that the project was implemented again the next year.

For example, this particular piece, painted by Canadian tattoo artist and illustrator Heather McLean, is inspired by a song called “A Hundred Ropes” by Minor Victories. Notice how the locks of the woman’s hair become the waves on a stormy sea.

One of the challenges for street art in Reykjavík is the rapid speed at which the city is growing. Everywhere you look there are construction cranes, as old buildings are demolished to make way for new shops, hotels and businesses. Some of the street art painted on the sides of buildings are disappearing as empty lots are filled in. And while the very nature of street art is that it is not meant to be permanent, it’s a shame to see some of the art disappear. Luckily, the spirit of street art in Reykjavík is going strong, with no signs of slowing down even as the city expands.

Plovdiv

By Anda from Travel for a While

The first thing you find out about Plovdiv is that it is the oldest inhabited city in Europe. Being such an ancient place, you wouldn’t really imagine the real young vibe it has.

There are plenty of reasons to visit Plovdiv. Among them, well-preserved Roman ruins and traditional painted houses in the Old Town. Besides them, you will also find coffee shops, craft beer places, and great food. Another reason to visit is the street art in Plovdiv. Street art is virtually everywhere in Plovdiv. From underway passages to garbage bins and school walls, you will find graffiti and murals in many places.

The best places to find some great street art pieces are the trendy Kapana neighborhood and the area behind the drama theater. The street behind the theater was transformed in just one week, during the Street Art Fest of 2013. Climb the stairs behind Milo the Crazy’s statue to find this hidden gem of Plovdiv.

Kapana is a much larger area where artists are frequently commissioned to bring new life to the old walls. Start exploring with the heart of Kapana and admire the three large murals. Then, walk on the small streets to find smaller pieces in the most unexpected places.

One of my favorite pieces in Plovdiv is ‘МИР’ (Peace) by Nasimo. A Bulgarian artist, by his real name Stanislav Trifonov, Nasimo has been painting walls since 1995. He is one of the most active and popular Bulgarian artists. 

Peace is a mural composition, the biggest in Bulgaria. Nasimo started working on it in 2015 and has added pieces a few times since. He aims to inspire love and peace, the food our souls need.

Best street art cities in Europe – Łódź

By Ania from The Travelling Twins

I’m going to tell you how great street art in Łódź has become over the years. What started as an act by Polish artists against communism became something so much more than that. It was an act of defiance against all odds and now it’s an integral part of what makes Łódź so special.

Today, nearly forty years after the first street art appeared in Łódź, street art here not only symbolizes freedom of speech but has become one of the main attractions for visitors to the city. The local authorities support street artists and Łódź is proud of its legendary murals.

Murals in Łódź which has been started by local artists now attracted big names like Aryz and Os Gemeos brothers (ul. Roosevelt 5), Aryz or Eduardo Kobra with a mural of famous Polish Pianist Arthur Rubinstein, who was born in Łódź.

Besides painted murals, you can find in Lodz as well cool installations on the wall where using negative space effect and half a tonne of nails artist Łukasz Berger created the word “CISZA” (Silence)

Unfortunately, some of the cool ones like big surrealistic graffiti done by French artist Remed was reprinted with boring medical advertisements. But still, many empty building faces are waiting for new murals.

When you plan to visit Łódź its one of the great things to do is to discover the town by searching for interesting murals.

Bucharest

By Vanessa from Traveling Ness

Romania might not be the first country you think of for street art in Europe but the capital of Bucharest is bursting with art murals and cool graffiti around every corner! Bucharest has a European charm without the crowds often referred to as “Little Paris”.

Since the end of communism, Romanians used street art and graffiti as a way to express themselves in the new wake of independence. By exploring the various street art, you are walking through a visual story tied with bits of Bucharest’s history.

Some of Bucharest’s street art is very hidden and in other areas, you can’t help but notice it. The main areas to spot the best street art in Bucharest is around Old Town, in the Piata Romana neighborhood off of Strada Pictor Arthur Verona and the North Railroad Station area.

Top artists that have painted the walls of Bucharest with some really cool street art are Pisica Patrata (Alexandru Ciubotariu), Vhils, Sweet Damage Crew, Obie Platon, and Benr.

My favorite murals in Bucharest are done by Sweet Damage Crew that consists of a group of artists. The first mural is hidden in a courtyard of an outdoor movie screen, known as Creart. 

It is of a man sitting on a TV looking up at the moon with rich shades of blue and purple that is a few stories tall! As it is on private property, ask if you can go in or attend one of the movie viewings held there.

The other top mural by Sweet Damage Crew is Make a Point, depicting a woman drawing on a piece of glass she is holding. You can find Point on Strada General Eremia Grigorescu 10. No matter what area of Bucharest you explore, you are bound to find plenty of epic urban art during your stay!

Kaunas, Lithuania

By Tal from Bright Nomad Travel Blog

Kaunas, Lithuania, is a lesser known destination with a great street art scene waiting to be discovered.

One of the most famous pieces of street art in the city is called The Wise Old Man. It’s a huge mural in a very central location, close to Kaunas Castle, on the wall of an old shoe factory.

It’s a painting of a well known local artist called Jurgis Maciunas, a historic figure who was the father of the Fluxus art movement. The city embraced this mural and it has become one of its symbols.

Another great spot for street art is called The Yard Gallery. Located inside a residential yard and initiated by one of the residents, this gallery has a wonderful collection of murals and installations by local street artists. It’s a place that’s fun to explore.

Not far from the yard, you’ll find another famous piece of art, an eye-catching mural of a massive pink elephant. 

You can see many more pieces of street art, including some very impressive murals, scattered around the city. Many of them are legal and commissioned by the city, which appreciated both the art and the artists. To discover them easily, you can pick up a beautiful illustrated street art map from the tourist information centre in the city hall.

Barcelona

By Ignacio from Tango and Rakija

The city which gave birth to art characters such as Miro, Dali, Gaudi and Picasso is obviously a good city for hunting street art.

You will quickly realize that even without a map and just strolling around the city you will step into a world of graffiti and many forms of street-art.

Luckily, this time you won’t have to think much but just enjoy it. These are, according to us, the MUST SEE places for a deep-dive in street-art culture of Barcelona.

You should start visiting one of the oldest pieces of art in the walls of the city – Keith Haring’s mural. It was painted in 1989 on a very old building in the Raval neighbourhood which nowadays is the MACBA museum. Painted in red, the colour of blood, this mural contains all Haring’s  classic  iconography: children, life, sex, death and his fight against AIDS.

Since you are already in the Raval area you can visit one of our favorite ones in the city. A mysterious couple of artists which IG is @me_lata. Just walk around El Raval and you will find their art mostly everywhere.They do art with empty cans and write quotes and thoughts on them. 

Not far from the Raval, in the area of Poble Sec you can go to The Three Chimneys urban park and sit to enjoy art creation in real time. This is one of the favourite playgrounds of Barcelona’s street artists (both professional and amateur) owing to the fact that it is one of the city’s only purpose-built graffiti parks.The walls on the park are part of the initiative called Murs Lliures in catalan (‘free walls’), urban areas distributed around the city that the artists can reserve for a specific date and do their magic. The good thing is that the art on the walls changes mostly every week. 

If you love Barcelona, you love Miro, if you love Miro you will love this huge graffiti. In the corner of C/Sant Pau and C/ de la Riereta you can see perhaps one of Barcelona’s most iconic pieces of street art, the large mural on the corner is a tribute to the famous Catalan artist Joan Miró. 

To wrap-up your visit to this area of Barcelona we suggest you to go to the street Carrer Selva de Mar between Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes and Av. Diagonal. Here you will see many graffitis from different artists in all possible colors and shapes. It’s a 20 min walk or less full of vibrant street-art.  

For our next proposal you need to think big because this is a huge mural. Just on the front wall of an old building called  La Carbonería which stands the title of the oldest building in the area of Eixample, it’s so old that it is protected by the council. Meaning it can’t be destroyed or altered in any significant way. Formerly a coal company that was abandoned and after some years it was squatted for many others before its residents were finally evicted in 2014. To find this fantastic and historical piece of street-art you need to go to the intersection of Urgell and Floridablanca. 

In order to stay in tune with murals you cannot miss a visit to the huge collage called 

The Shark. It’s a three-metre-long shark made of paintings of €100 notes at the top of El Carmel. In 2008, Blu, artist from Bologna, did. ‘El Tiburón’ as a reminder of Spain’s political corruption. The controversy behind this art expression was enormous, nevertheless, The Shark is standing there after many years.

Our last suggestion of the day is that you take a walk till Turó del Carmel, a park full of walls with graffiti from many different artists. You have a graffiti wall that runs the length of Camí de Can Móra to enjoy. It’s around 500m long.

And, the best part about street art in Barcelona is that, this is not all. If you just walk around the streets of the city, you will find true pieces of art in almost every corner.

Athens

Chrysoula from Athens and Beyond

Athens is a city known for its rich history with the many archaeological sites scattered in every corner, the tasty cuisine, and the vibrant nightlife. In the last years, the city has seen an increase in the number of murals from creative street art artists, many of which are students in the Athens School of Fine Art.

There are many neighborhoods one can admire street art, but the most popular ones include Monastiraki, Exarchia, Psiri, and Keramikos. All these areas are located in the city center and are easily accessible to tourists on foot.

An alternative way to admire the most famous murals is to take a guided tour offered by various companies.

One of the most famous Greek street art artists with many works around Athens and various cities around the world is INO with his large-scale black and white murals. Some of his well-known works include “Access control”, “Clock Work”, and “Wake Up”. 

One of my favorite murals in Athens is the one of Loukanikos, a stray dog that got famous during the protest marches against anti-austerity measures in downtown Athens. After his death, the street art artists Martinez, N. Gramms, and Smart created a big mural in his honor in the Psiri neighborhood. The mural depicts the dog in a scene of riots and flames and there is also an epigraph that says: “We were struck by tear-gas together” and also “All Dogs go to Heaven”.

While exploring Athens, keep your eyes open for some amazing street art.

Rome

By Claudia Tavani from Strictly Rome

Rome is a fantastic city for street art, and you can easily admire many interesting pieces in several areas of the city. Street art in Rome helped convert neighborhoods that were once burdened by petty crime into much better places with live (and free) art galleries that anybody can visit.

There are several neighborhoods in Rome where visitors can admire street art. One of them is Quadraro, a bit outside of the center of Rome but easy to reach by metro. Others are Testaccio and neighboring Ostiense, a 30 minutes walk from the Colosseum; or Pigneto and San Basilio.

Rome’s latest street art project, however, is in the area of Tor Marancia, further south of the Colosseum (about one hour walk). It was only in 2015 that the walls of Viale Tor Marancia were completely turned into an art gallery, with 20 international artists working for 70 days in a row to change the face of many buildings within the “Big City Life” project. More than 20 murals were painted.

The most notable mural in Tor Marancia is “The Weight of History” by Argentine-Italian artist Jaz. It portrays an Argentine wrestler holding an Italian wrestler on his shoulder and it represents the tight connection between Italy and Argentina.
The best way to enjoy street art in Rome is via a guided walking tour. Several companies run good ones around the city.

Glasgow, Scotland

By Rachel from Average Lives

Undeniably, Glasgow is one of the best street art cities in Europe.  The city is a former fishing village and will welcome you with green spaces, museums, architectural wonders and a fantastic food scene.  

If that was not enough, over the past 14 years, Glasgow’s once tired and empty buildings have transformed thanks to some gifted street artists. There is now a famous ‘Mural Trail’, which should be on a Glasgow itinerary. The trail was named one of the most exciting things to do in the world on Time Out’s DO List for 2020 and is the perfect way to brighten up any day. 

The Mural Trail showcases the diverse art from primarily local artists and can be reached on foot from the city centre. The unique works help to bring colour to the city. They are often described as murals for everyone, from radical, to conservative, to unusual or narrative-based. 

You can see the murals on a self-guided tour with the help of the Mural Trail website, or you can go on a tour with a local artist to learn more about each one and its significance. The trail is 5-miles in total and would take around 3-hours to complete, but many people complete sections at a time over a couple of days. 

One of the most famous and exciting murals is named Saint Mungo and was created by the artist Smug (Sam Bates), who is originally Australian but lives in Glasgow. It is a photo-realistic mural finished in 2016 and is on the gable end of High Street. It was crafted freehand and depicted the patron Saint of Glasgow with a small robin – an indication of the story of the Bird That Never Flew.

Naples

By Danila from Travelling Dani.

Naples is a lovely city in Southern Italy, which lies next to the sea.

While most of the world identifies Napoli with the delicious Neapolitan pizza, cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven, us locals know that our city hides a pretty colorful treasure.

Street art is well hidden and it always represents our feelings or the important people who have had a great impact on the whole region. Among the best things to do in Naples (Italy), hunting for murals is one of the top 3. You can do it for free: it’s cheap, fun and it will let you discover the hidden side of Naples.

The most popular mural in Naples is dedicated to the one football player that has forever changed our city: Diego Armando Maradona.

The local stadium has been named after the Argentinian player when he died by the end of 2020.

The Maradona murale dates back to 1990, when the Naples Soccer Team won the Italian “Scudetto” thanks to Diego. It was restored in 2016.

You can visit it for free: find it at Piazzetta Diego Armando Maradona, in Naples.

The popular Maradona murale was painted by a local artist who was just 23 at the time, Mario Filardi. He wasn’t a street artist, but he so felt inspired by the player who had managed to bring glory to Naples, that he decided to try his hand at painting.

This has soon become the most popular street art in Italy.

Another very famous and huge mural was created by the artist Jorit Agoch, who is pretty active in Naples.

It represents San Gennaro, the patron saint that every Neapolitan loves. He is believed to have stopped the lava when Mount Vesuvius erupted, thus “saving” Naples from destruction.

The “Gennaro” mural covers the entire side of an historical building in Piazza Crocelle ai Mannesi, in Forcella, next to the Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore.

Lyon

By Leyla from Offbeat France

While French cities have their share of informal street art, Lyon’s monumental murals are famous not only throughout the country but around the world.

While each is unique and meaningful, perhaps the one that best encapsulates the mural story and the history of Lyon is the “Mur des Canuts”, or the Wall of Silk Workers. This massive fresco sits above Lyon on Croix-Rousse Hill, which was once home to the many weavers who turned Lyon into Europe’s capital of silk for five centuries from the Renaissance onwards.

This particular mural depicts everyday life in Lyon in a naïve art style that might make you look twice to see if this is actually a mural – or real life. Many others follow the same pattern, highlighting a moment in history, or the faces of famous Lyonnais. 

Other murals have little to do with reality, picturing scenes from entertainment or even science fiction.

It matters little: all were born from a desire to bring art to poorer neighborhoods of the city and were the brainchild of a small group of rebellious art students who created a cooperative, CitéCréation, in the 1980s after being inspired by murals during a school trip to Mexico. The Mur des Canuts was their first creation and involved the local community in its design.

Today, the cooperative is so well known it receives commercial offers to undertake murals around the world, which its artists do, but they never forget their origins and continue to populate Lyon with delightful scenes. They have even opened a school for muralists-in-waiting, paving the way for the future generation.

Bristol

By Claire from Go South West England

Whether you’re spending a weekend in Bristol or are here for a longer time, one of the best things to do is see its beautiful street art!

Bristol is the home of Banksy who is possibly the world’s most famous street artist – so it’s no surprise that it’s one of the best places in Europe for street art!

Banksy is an anonymous street artist – he leaves his work with his signature style on walls, but nobody actually knows who he is! You’ll find his art all over Bristol. Often, it’ll have a meaningful message, as he addresses topics like war and inequality. 

Other times, he’ll mention current issues in his art but have a comic twist, such as his famous “mild, mild west” artwork in Stokes Croft which features a teddy bear throwing a cocktail at riot police and alludes to the illegal parties that were held in the city in the 1990s. 

Bristol street art certainly isn’t just Banksy though. The entire city is covered in a mishmash of murals and poignant art pieces – it’s like walking around an outdoor art gallery. While Banksy’s work is usually black and white, many other pieces are full of colour and vibrance. 

Stokes Croft is one of the best areas to walk around for street art. From expansive colourful murals to smaller pieces reminding you that “hate is foolish” and to “think local, boycott Tesco”, there’s loads to look at here!

Another awesome spot is North Street in Southville. This is the location for the street art festival Upfest, and nearly all of the road’s buildings have beautiful murals! Most poignant is perhaps outside Aldi, where Greta Thunberg’s face, half-covered in water from rising sea levels, looks down on shoppers – reminding you to make sustainable choices with your shopping.

Belfast

By Faith from XYU and Beyond

Northern Ireland and particularly artists in Belfast have a long history of representing and reflecting their troubled history in street art. 

Street art and political activism have always gone hand in hand but in 1998 when the Peace Accord was signed a new kind of street art began appearing on the walls of Belfast.  

You can still find many of the murals that depict “The Troubles” in neighbourhoods separated into Catholic and Protestant areas. From murals of Bobby Sands who died while on hunger strike, to a mural of the Women’s Quilt with words relating to women and the roles they play in communities. 

These days artists have taken to the streets of Belfast to bring new life into areas of the city that were run down and abandoned and have now been transformed turning Belfast into a street art mecca like London, New York and Berlin. 

The new street artists include Joe Caslin whose piece of two women kissing drew attention to the LGBTQIA community with the hashtag #lovewins.

In stark contrast to the political murals some of the best street art is found in the Cathedral District. Exhibiting work by world-renowned artists this area is stunningly colourful with work by Kev Largey (aka KVLR), Pang, Christina Angelina’s (aka StarFighteraA) and James Earley.

My favourite piece though is the one called Lobster Pot by the Australian street artist Sam Bates, also known as Smug. Smug is recognized around the world as one of the masters of Photorealism.

You can take a walking tour of Belfast’s street art that was created and led by local artists who have driven the street art scene in Belfast. This two hour walking tour will take you through the ever changing street art scene in the City.

Lisbon

By Berkeley Square Barbarian

Lisbon is a fun weekend destination. You can easily spend a few days exploring the different neighbourhoods sprawling across the hills and valleys. Street art here started with political murals after the revolution of 25 April 1974.

Few cities offer more exciting street art than Lisbon. This is even more impressive considering its relatively small size compared with many of its competitors. The city actively encourages and supports street art (within boundaries). You will find graffiti and murals everywhere around town.

Alfama, the cobble-stoned ancient neighbourhood between the river and the castle, with its steep, crooked alleyways, sports many of the best-known works of street art.

Glória Funicular leading up to Bairro Alto features the fabulous Street Art Gallery. Every once in a while a jury established by the City Council invites dozens of street artists to paint the hundreds of metres of wall for a limited period of time. Graça, Chiado, and Belém have no lack of amazing murals.But no place is more exciting than Mouraria. Among others, a multi-level car park was decorated by various street artists.
Famous local artists include Nuno Saraiva, Vhils, Odeith, Tamara Alves, and Bordalo II. That said, artists from all over the world have visited Lisbon and left some of their works on the walls. Shepard Fairey, Os Gemeos, Utopia63, Blu, SAM3, Andrea Tarli, and Kobra are a few of the more prominent names.

My favourite mural has to be the one on the Escadinhas de São Cristóvão in Mouraria, which was created by a number of different artists. It celebrates the musical tradition of Fado. True, it is not particularly aesthetic. However, you can see that it was a work of love and it gets enthusiastic reactions by almost everyone who passes by it.

London

By Rose at Where Goes Rose?

London is a world-class city whatever you’re into. The street art is no exception and arty travellers to London will be spoilt for choice by the number of alternative neighbourhoods covered in colourful murals.

To find the best street art in London, you’ll want to escape the city centre which is better known for mainstream tourist attractions and shopping districts. Two of the best street art districts in London are Camden and Shoreditch.

In Shoreditch, make a beeline for the Brick Lane street art. Wentworth Street, Fashion Street and Heneage street are known for their colourful murals by artists including ARTiSTA, Benslow and SHOK-1.

Don’t miss the secret unnamed alleyway beside Saffron Restaurant. Here you’ll find a host of socially-conscious art with messages such as ‘more love, less theft’.

Another mural not to miss in Shoreditch is the enormous crane (bird) on Hanbury Street. This is one of the largest and most detailed pieces of street art in the area.

Over in Camden (North London), you can find street art dotted along Kentish Town Road, Bayham Street, Buck Street and Castlehaven Road to name but a few. 

Hawley Mews is an enclave off Hawley Street, completely covered in vibrant street art. Artists regularly change the art here so you never know what you might find.

There are numerous murals dedicated to the late Amy Winehous who called Camden home. In the Stables Market, you’ll also find an arty, lifelike statue dedicated to her.

Birmingham

By Richard from RJ on Tour

Digbeth in Birmingham is also known as the creative quarter and is a lovely place to hang out. Birmingham is the second largest city in the UK and there are lots of things going on, including the 2022 Commonwealth Games. They adorned the Digbeth area with lots of nice street art throughout, including any spare walls and in most of the bars. The area is a great place for nightlife, dining out or just for a walk to admire the art on the buildings.

The best area of Digbeth to see is the streets near the Custard Factory, specifically Floodgate Street and Gibb Street. To see the more up-and-coming artists, take a stroll along the canal. There are some fantastic examples on boards and walls as you stroll along.

Two of the most prominent artists in the city are Gent 48, who does some very intriguing work. The other that pops us all over the place is Annatomix, whose art usually includes theor distinctive fox. My favourite Annatomix piece is along the canal path, the art really enhances the dark drab warehouses. There are many other artists in the area, and the standard is pretty high.

Bars like Zumhof Biergarten and Nortons have some outstanding pieces in their beer gardens. They are both great places for a night out or an afternoon drink. Although Digbeth is by far the best area for street art, the nearby China Town has some great political pieces too.

Which of these street art in Europe cities is next on your agenda? Save a pin for future reference.

Longford surprised me. Having grown up here, taking a trip to a place of interest usually involved a spin down the road to another county, particularly one bordering an ocean or sea. Tourists in Longford usually consisted of a few anglers trying their luck on the counties rivers.

Longford has come a long way as a tourist county over the last few years. Previously it was a string of market towns servicing the local population. No more! With the advent of the Failte Ireland initiative, Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands, (focusing on the then unfashionable counties that border the River Shannon), and the opening of Center Parcs Longford Forest, the county has seen a significant growth in tourist facilities.

Now the county numbers several attractions charting its history, one of the best greenways in the country, and an unrivalled family resort. It also has one of Ireland’s greatest Iron Age mysteries in the trackway at Corlea Bog.

Longford is best seen on wheels, either on two or four. North Longford by car and South Longford by bike. With a solid recommendation on how to see the county coming from the team from Longford Tourism, we spent 3 full days in the county, first viewing the history and natural walks of the north county, then exploring its many towns, before taking to the Royal Canal greenway. We left more than impressed with the many things to do in Longford.

We travelled to Longford at the invitation of Longford Tourism, for a three day FAM trip. While much of what we visited was sponsored, all views expressed are my own. I would like to thank Tara, Dympna and Denise for their kind assistance in organising the trip, and also all the business owners for their warm welcome, time, energy and hard work. For a full guide to the county visit the site www.Longford.ie

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

EZxploring maps- an interesting way to see the best things in Longford

Seeing Longford is made all the more easier by picking up the free EZxploring maps from local libraries or heritage centres. The maps contain a plethora of info on each towns architecture and history. They are also really interactive so kids will love them too and learn of heritage along the way. Not just kids might I add. At present there are EZxploring maps of Longford, Ballymahon, Edgeworthstown, Granard, Lanesborough, Ardagh and of the Royal Canal Greenway.

Things to do in Longford – Day One – North Longford Road Trip

As you hit Longford, and assuming you are coming from a Dublin direction the first town you’ll meet (or bypass if you follow the road- DON’T do that) is Edgeworthstown. Home to a museum dedicated to its most famous citizens, there’s actually quite a lot to this rare spoken of town. From there, our road trip moves north to Granard. The Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre is the most fun you’ll have in the county, and that includes the pubs. Learn all about its Norman history and get introduced to Longford’s part in the failed 1798 rebellion.

After appreciating nature on some of North Longford’s walks, we learn more of the rebellion in the town of Ballinamuck, the site of a major battle in 1798, before travelling back towards Longford town. GPS is a must for some of these locations as they can otherwise be hard to find. Even for a local.

Edgworthstown

Edgeworthstown is about 90 minutes from Dublin, on the N4 heading west. The town’s history is centred around the Edgeworth family, the extremely fair landlords who resided in a nearby manor house. The town grew with their help and their impact can be seen right across the town. There is street parking throughout the town for €1 per hour, and it’s important to display your ticket on the dash.

Maria Edgeworth Centre

Located in the old school on Ballymahon Road, is a museum dedicated to Maria Edgeworth. Maria Edgeworth for those who don’t know, was a leading Irish literary writer in the early 19th century. Her most noted works are Castle Rackrent, Ennui , The Absentee, and Ormond. Her works sadly haven’t received the same modern attention as some of her peers, but during her life she was revered as one of the finest minds around and was a regular confident of some of Britain’s and Ireland’s top economists and novelists.

As well as being a writer, she was a strong educational campaigner, striving to upgrade the rote learning system, and seeking education for all in Ireland irrespective of religion or class.

Her extended family too were most certainly of note. The museum weaves a story that includes the relation who administered last rites to Louis XVI, her father Richard who was a politician, writer and inventor, and her various connections with high class society at the time.

It certainly taught me quite a few things about my local history. An audio guide is offered to take you through the full story of this very intriguing family, with a wall full of portraits introducing us to the various players. Entry to the Maria Edgeworth Centre is €5.

You can pick up the EZxploring maps and an audio guide of Edgeworthstown from the centre before venturing out to explore the town.

Granard

Granard has been the location of a settlement since the year 236 AD, and has a significant history going back through the centuries. Irish tribes used it for its dominant position atop a hill. They weren’t very welcoming of St Patrick when he came calling. Queen Maebh is said to have stopped here with her army in the Tain. When the Normans came, Richard de Tuite built a motte atop a hill here in the 13th century, which at 166 metres above sea level, is the highest in the country.

Granard is about 11 kilometres from Edgeworthstown on the N55. Parking is at the Knights and Conquests heritage centre, which is our excellent first stop before we explore the town.

Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre- Where history and fun collide

Knights and Conquests is a relatively new attraction in the county, and charts the Norman history of Granard and their successful invasion of Ireland in the 12th century. The visitor centre lies below the Motte on Granard’s outskirts. While anticipating the visitor centre to be educational (the town has quite the history, from the Norman’s, the 1798 rebellion, and the links to Michael Collins), we really weren’t expecting just how fun it was going to be. Undoubtedly the most fun thing to in Longford.

Run by Bartle and Deirdre, two of the most enthusiastic tour guides we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting, Knights and Conquests is a hoot. It’s interactive throughout, from donning shields, swords, chain mail and helmets as a Norman, to swinging swords and being used as target practice for Bartle’s crossbow skills. It totally puts you in the mind of the Norman warrior of the day and made all the better by the hosts great sense of humour.

It’s informative of course too, with a video and plenty of exhibitions on the Norman invasion, way of life, and all that followed in the centuries after. A room is dedicated to Kitty Kiernan one of Granard’s famous citizens. She was the beau of Michael Collins, and their story is one of Ireland’s most tragic love stories. The interpretative centre has some uniforms of the style used by Collins during the Irish Civil War, so of course we had to try those on too.

Lastly I was dressed in pantaloons and the attire of a rebel from the 1798 rebellion, who fought in Granard and were cruelly executed at the nearby Motte.  So perhaps I looked a little ridiculous but I’m always up for that. We love interactive exhibits like this. They are some of our favourite tours and Knights and Conquests easily joins the list of the best we’ve been to. 

They have some amazing plans to expand and build a Norman village on the site, with a working mill and much more. I’ll be watching that development closely and returning.

Better yet all this fun only costs €6 for an adult, and €4 for kids. That’s about 10 cents a laugh by my calculation. Great value. they also open 7 days a week for tours. Visit the Knights and Conquests website here.

Derrycassin Woods walking trails

The first of the walks of North Longford, this woodland area has a number of trails. At one time this was the location of Derrycassan House and the estate of the Dopping-Hepenstal family. The manor house has since disappeared but there are still traces of the walled gardens. Throughout there are a number of trails, none more than about 3km long. They can be linked to appreciate the old estate and the views of the nearby Lough Gowna. In spring the woods are alive with colours of bluebells and rhododendrons.

The woods are located between Granard and Aughnacliffe near Dring. Speaking of Dring, there is a stunning fishing pier here overlooking Lough Gowna. It’s the perfect place for a picnic, though there is no protection near the waters edge if kids are in tow.

Aughnacliffe

Aughnacliffe is a small village on our route, but it’s not without its charms. On approach from Dring keep an eye out for the sign for Pulliness waterfall. There’s a short walk down to the waterfall and though small, it’s pleasant.

A few hundred metres further along the road a small sign will point you to the 5000 year old Aughnacliffe Portal Dolmen. In the case of both this and the waterfall there is no parking, so park roadside, taking care not to block entrances to houses. The dolmen is a little harder to get too, as it’s through two fields.

Proceed through the first field to find a gateway in the far right corner and within the next field you will find the portal Dolmen. They may or may not have livestock, so don’t bring a dog as this can unsettle them. Take care around animals especially cattle. That’s no bull. The Dolmen is right in the middle of a field, and is fully intact, with two capstones. One is almost three metres in length, making it the third biggest in Ireland.

Just off the heart of the village it the beautiful lakeside Leebeen park, complete with children’s playground, and an imaginative fairy garden. A walkway follows the small lake nearby too making this a lovely stop, especially with kids.

Ballinamuck

Ballinamuck is located 11 km from Aughnacliffe and was the scene of the Battle of Ballinamuck on 8th September 1798. An Irish backed French force under General Humbert had been victorious in the battle of Castlebar, in County Mayo. As they moved across the country they were pursued by two huge British armies under Lord Cornwallis and General Lake. Finally they made a stand in Ballinamuck. The battle lasted less than an hour, and was a disaster for the rebels. While the British suffered 12 losses, some 500 Irish and French lay dead. The remaining French surrendered, but the Irish rebels were given no quarter. The remaining were followed to the bog and bayoneted.

There is a memorial and a visitor centre dedicated to the fateful events of that day, within the village. The visitor centre recounts the details of that day. A statue of a pikeman (a pike was the only weapon the Irish had), shows how ill-equipped the Irish were against the heavily armed British.

Entry to the visitor centre a the moment is only by self guided tour. The key is available from Dillon’s Pub across the road.

Edenmore Bog walk

Just outside of the village is the Edenmore bog walk. Ireland has over 50 % of the raised bogland in Europe, and while it traditionally was harvested as a fuel for homes, there has been a growing movement away from fossil fuels, and bogs are being conserved. This is excellent news for the visitor as bogs are full on unique flora and fauna that only grow and live in these unusual conditions.

The Edenmore bog is no exception. A 4.5 km circular walk follows a solid trail underfoot and loops back to the small car park. It’s all signposted within so no fear of being lost in the bog. Wildlife is in abundance with a possibility of seeing Pine Martens at dawn and dusk, and birds such as Stonechats, Skylarks, Meadow Pipits, and Willow warblers. Butterflies and Dragonflies prance around the area. There are fascinating plants too, such as Sundew and Bladderwort that feed on insects.

It’s great to see an alternative use to Ireland’s boglands and them used as a local and tourist amenity. The have a close tie to our history and some of our most intact discoveries have been made in boglands. Very recently a full suit of Norman chainmail was found near Granard. The bog bodies found in Ireland is perhaps the most ghoulish and fascinating display in Dublin’s National History Museum. One wonders what else lies undiscovered under all that peat.

What other things are there to do in North Longford

The final leg of our best of North Longford driving tour took us through the village of Ennybegs. Notable is the small white parish church, but it’s the James Farrell Titanic memorial garden opposite that brought us here. James Farrell grew up here, before seeking a new life on the ill fated ships voyage.

Farrell is remembered for his heroics aboard the ship, where he pleaded for the lives of some female companions when they were blocked from reaching the lifeboats. After been left through he accompanied them to the boats where he watched them escape to safety. His body was found 8 days later. It’s an heroic story worth reading at the memorial. It was also told in the 1958 movie, A Night to Remember.

Our resting spot for the night would be the town of Drumlish, and the shepherds huts at Bramblewick House. More on this wonderful glamping site later. But first we spun by Drumlish Mill, a corn mill built in 1854, and a beautiful feature of the town. Sadly it can’t be visited, but it can most certainly be admired.

Corn Hill Walking Trail

Visiting in summer, there was the prospect of a late sunset, so we aimed for one more walk, and the hope of watching the sun set over the Irish midlands from Longford’s highest point. As is often the case in Ireland, clouds had a different idea. But that doesn’t take away from the walk.

Corn Hill at 278 metres is the third smallest high point of Ireland’s counties. But with no other hills of note in the county it does have prominence. A recent addition is the 3 km loop trail from a newly installed car park. The walk does have steep parts and most of it is over dirt track, but it is certainly classified as easy. The best views are north in the initial ascent, but the furthest point, facing west, is where we had hoped to catch the sunset. A number of picnic benches are installed here to take in the phenomenon.

At the top of corn hill are two cairns, from which it gets its name. Dating back around 5000 years, one has sustained damage. They are heavily linked to Irish mythology, including the story of the Tain, and an ancient witch known as Cailleach a Bheara.

Longford Town, Ardagh & Lough Ree- Day Two in Longford

Things to do in Longford Town

Longford town is the county town of Longford, and at first glance seems little more. But a deeper look brings it’s historical past to the fore. At its heart is St Mel’s Cathedral, easily the most standout building in the town, and one of Ireland’s finest cathedrals. A walk through the town will also highlight its military and industrial past.

Longford’s history is closely linked to the O’Farrell clan who were the rulers of Annaly, the old name for the area. They ruled the area from the 11th through the 17th century, at which point in 1621, Francis Aungier (who had been the commissioner of the plantations of Munster) was made 1st Baron of Longford.

Thus began the history of Longford Town. To protect the new lands, a castle was built in the town in 1627 in the area which is now Connolly Barracks, on the site of an old O’Farrell fort. The castle was eventually converted to a manor house, and the title of Lord Longford passed to the Pakenham family. Their descendants still live to this day in Tullynally castle in Westmeath.

Sadly the castle was demolished in 1972 after falling into ruin. As the town grew so did its military significance. The barracks was established in the 1700’s by the ruling British empire, one of many throughout the country. Longford continued its development as a market and industrial town throughout the 18th to 20th centuries. Much of the towns main buildings were built in the 19th century such as the market square, court house, and banks.

What to do in Longford- take the Longford Town audio tour

To fully appreciate the town equip yourself with an EZxploring map and the new Longford Town Audio Tour, which is available from the town library or tourism office. Priced at €5 it’s an invaluable companion as you follow the towns streets and the Camlin river. It takes in everything you could hope to see in Longford and much more that even I was oblivious to. The library is located in Longford Town Centre and the tourism office in the market square. Both contain ample paid parking.

St Mel’s Cathedral

St Mel’s Cathedral is the Roman Catholic cathedral for the diocese of Ardagh and Clonmacnoise. It was constructed between 1840 and 1856, though this was disrupted by the Great Famine. Neo-Classical in style it is defined by its large limestone columns and high belfry. It stands tall above all other buildings in town, and is a must visit. The modern interior contains a pair of Harry Clarke stained glass windows, an Italian organ by Fratelli Ruffatti, and stained glass windows designed by Kim en Joong, a Dominican priest.

St Mel’s Cathedral is Longford’s own Notre Dame story. Gutted by fire in 2009, it received an overwhelming show of public support and funding. Following a restoration costing €30 million it reopened in 2014. Thankfully the Harry Clarke windows in the transepts survived, but relics such as the St Mel’s Crozier that were in the museum below were lost. The new cathedral is a must visit owing to its attractive interior and as a testament to the will of the people to restore a building of much local pride.

Ardagh Village

Ardagh is the jewel in Longford’s crown. The village is a joy to walk through, past Tudor-Gothic cottages and old churches, with only the occasional car and the song of birds to break the silence. It’s located 10 km from Longford (again use that GPS).

Ardagh has the most significant history of all of Longford too. In pre-Christian times the nearby Ardagh Mountain was revered on a par with locations such as the Hill of Tara, Bru na Boinne, or Rath Cruachan in Roscommon. The ancient tale of Etain and Midir was associated with Bri Leith, the ancient name of the mountain. With the coming of St Patrick, he deemed it important enough to establish a church, and his disciple St Mel, founded one in the location of the present day Ardagh village. A church would always be on this site and to this day an 11th century ruin still stands.

The village as we see it today is as a result of the Fetherston family who settled here in 1745 and built the huge and impressive Ardagh House. It can sadly only be admired from afar. Though it was them who commissioned the development of the estate village, which is said to have been based on a Swiss model. I’m not surprised, though it does bear a resemblance to some of the UK’s finest. At the heart of the village is a triangle with an ornate clock tower, and protestant church flanking on two sides. Ardagh is also heavily linked to Oliver Goldsmith, one of the regions greatest writers.

Just don’t take my word for it on how beautiful Ardagh is. It has won Ireland’s tidiest village on three occasions and numerous European awards. Few locations in Ireland possess as much charm.

Lanesborough and Lough Ree

Lanesborough is Longford’s main town on the River Shannon, Ireland’s longest river which flows for 360 kilometres. Lanesborough is a 19th century town, though it has been an important crossing point of the River Shannon for centuries. The first bridge was built here 300 years ago, and was the first crossing of the river north of Athlone. Nowadays it is a 6 arch structure, and the rivers banks have some of Longford’s finest scenery.

Lough Ree Access For All boat trip

We travelled to lanesborough to take a boat trip on the Shannon with Lough Ree access for all. This company is one of a kind in Ireland and the UK. Their specially commissioned boat was designed and built to accommodate wheelchairs. Run as a registered charity it’s fantastic that they give the disabled the chance to do something which was never before possible. The trip is a relaxing cruise up the river, taking in Lanesborough harbour and the green forested banks, in the company of the very hospitable driver and tour guide. Though the weather wasn’t great for our trip, the boat is fully covered and is adept for all conditions.

Only opened in 2020, Access for All was the brainchild of Alan Broderick and Ciaran Mullooly. It took 5 years to fundraise the €200,000 needed to build the boat. They have received an amazing response on the national level and their good work is widely recognised.

In addition to the one and a half hour boat trips, they also offer three hour fishing trips on the river. Fish commonly caught here include Perch, Roach and especially Pike who can be up 9 kg in size. You can book your trip with Lough Ree Access For All here.

After spending the day soaking up all that lakeside air, stay the night in Longford town, and the luxurious Viewmount House. Take in a show at the Backstage Theatre if you can.

Royal Canal Greenway- Day 3 of the best things to do in Longford

Longford’s newest attraction will also possibly become its biggest. It’s one that has been there a long time but finally getting the focus it needs. The Royal Canal was a project started in 1790, but took 27 years to complete, costing a huge £1.4 million. The heyday of canals was slowly coming to an end at this time with rail on the horizon. By 1880 the canal was no longer used and fell into disrepair for over a century. In the modern era it is the towpaths that are getting all the attention.

In 2021 the culmination of planning came to fruition and Ireland’s newest greenway the Royal Canal Greenway was opened. At 130 km it is Ireland’s longest, and the route spans from Cloondara in Longford to Maynooth in Kildare. An excellent facility for lovers of outdoors, it’s path is along a non vehicular traffic route, and suits both cyclists and walkers. Plenty of local wildlife can be seen by the canal side too.

The Longford stretch of the Greenway passes picnic sites, coffee huts, ruins, locks, and some really interesting towns and villages. A branch of the canal can be used to cycle to Longford town too. Unmissable are Keenagh, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule.

Along the route you’ll come across bronze shoes. These are from the National Famine Way trail which commemorates the 1490 people that walked this way in 1847, starving and in seek of a new life. Half perished on the journey and these bronze shoes are a poignant tribute to them and their hardships.

Midlands Cycle Hub Bike Hire – Cloondara

Our introduction to the Royal Canal Greenway was in the small village of Cloondara, via the Midlands Cycle Hub. Run by Robert Crilly, he only set up the business in early 2021, but it is already a roaring success. The hub have a variety of bikes from hybrid bikes, and mountain bikes to children’s bikes. Bikes can be delivered to and dropped off at a number of locations including Longford, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule, which is ideal for only cycling one way on the greenway. In addition, cycling tours can be arranged to suit different experience levels. Contact Midlands Cycle Hub to book yours.

Cloondara was the perfect place to begin. As the starting point of the Greenway, it’s where the canal meets an entry point to the River Shannon, and there is a beautiful harbour. Old mills nearby, have been preserved and converted into apartments, keeping the charms of the village. The bikes we got were excellent, putting to shame those that we have at home. We were pleasantly surprised how nice the greenway was to cycle on, at all times safe, peaceful and with green scenery around every gentle turn.

Before booking we had also arranged to get a picnic basket from the Richmond Inn. This is put together by the really pleasant Niamh, and they have a number of options to suit your budget. It’s fully recommended too as there are lots of beautiful picnic spots strewn along the route of the canal. Alternatively stop in at one of the coffee trailers or cafes at the various locks.

Keenagh

It’s 14 kilometres from Cloondara, to the first notable stop off the Greenway, Keenagh. The small village has Longford’s most important historical discovery, the Corlea Trackway. Besides that there are a number of ruins and structures all related to Mosstown House, an estate house of the Kingston family of the area. Those hungry after the cycle can check our Macs Shack in the centre.

The clock tower in Keenagh is an intriguing structure, built in honour of Laurence King-Harman, a local landlord who was considered fair and just. It dates from 1878.

Spare a few pedals for Mosstown Dovecote. It’s not easy to find this pigeon house, on a laneway not far from Mosstown Harbour on the canal, but it was once associated with Mosstown House which stood here. The three storey structure dates from 1750. Interesting that the pigeon house has outlasted the human house!

Corlea Trackway – the best thing to do in Longford for those with an interest in old Irish history

Keenagh’s and Longford’s finest archaeological site, was found in bogland a few kilometres outside the village. Dated at 147 BC it is the largest trackway of its kind to be found in Europe. Discovered in 1984, the Corlea Trackway is an Iron Age bog road that would have stretched for 1 kilometre over the surface of the bog allowing people and animals to cross. It was built using over 300 oak trees, that were expertly carved to link together and form a passable road. The huge effort in doing this suggests a massive public works scheme of its time, and gives evidence that it must have been carried out by someone of great importance.

However it can only be speculated as to the who, the why, or even the where to. The exact details of the trackway remain a mystery. Was it connecting some of Ireland’s great sites in the Hill of Tara, Hill of Uisneach and Rathcroghan? Was there something even greater, undiscovered at its end point? Was it built by Doc Brown so that his Delorean could build up enough speed to return after a disastrous attempt to time travel to the 60’s? No one will ever quite know. The closest clue comes in Irish mythology and the story the Wooing of Etain, where a king sets Midir a task of building a road in a bog where none other was.

All hope of some other clue in history was lost when the road succumbed to the bog and sank below the surface probably a decade after it was built. It lay there for two millennia waiting to be discovered.

The Corlea Trackway has an interesting visitor centre, complete with a video experience in an auditorium and lots of info on the country at that time and the building of the trackway. Then we get to see it in all its glory. A whole room is dedicated to the 18 metres stretch of trackway, preserving it in the exact location where it was found. It really gets the mind working as you gaze upon it.

Entry to the Corlea Trackway visitor centre is free.

There’s one more experience to be had here, in the walking trails surrounding. With trails stretching from 3 km to 7 km, there’s a lot of bog to see. Better still the trails are in great condition, so they can be cycled too. It’s an incredibly scenic bogs, with areas of wetlands, and some rather intriguing petrified trees. Wildlife was in abundance too and we spotted common lizards, as well as a huge population of butterflies and dragonflies. The inner macro photographer on me was immensely satisfied.

Ballymahon

A further 9 kilometers along the Greenway is the lively town of Ballymahon. The town has experienced good fortunes of late with the opening of the nearby Centre Parcs, and with it new restaurants and cafes have sprung up. Making it a good stop for the weary cyclist. On the approach from the Greenway there is some noteworthy street art by local artist Phil Atkinson. Ballymahon has some of Ireland’s widest streets which lends to the safety of cycling there.

Ballymahon is famed as the birth home of writer and one of Longford’s favourite sons, Oliver Goldsmith who was born in 1728 in the nearby Pallas (the house no longer exists but a monument to Goldsmith does). It’s found down some narrow country lanes though, so far from safe for cycling. Easier to find is the tribute to him on the banks of the River Inny, including a quote from the Deserted Village, one of his most popular works.

The River Inny is a popular place and hosts Inny kayaking, which we hope to return to do when they reopen after Covid. Also just outside the town is Newcastle Wood, a forest with long trails. Again, this was one walk to far for us on this trip, as was a visit to the forests popular attraction Center Parcs. Another three days in Longford please.

Abbeyshrule

Abbeyshrule is again 9 km from Ballymahon and is another of Longford’s charming village and a former recipient of Ireland’s tidiest village. Flanked on one side by the canal and on the other by River Inny, the village is defined by the bridges around it, and the impressive Whitworth Aqueduct which carries the canal over the Inny, via a five arch bridge. There are lovely walks from the village too, along the banks of the Inny.

However there is more to Abbeyshrule. The ruins of a 13th century Cistercian monastery are found on the village edge and worthy of exploring. For those with an adventurous edge, you can take to the sky at Abbeyshrule Aerodrome, where two flying clubs are based. Amateurs and professionals are welcome.

If you are a little more grounded, then perhaps Fiona Egan’s Cookery School is more to your taste. Using fresh home grown ingredients from the family farm, the cookery school approaches delicious cooking from a fun perspective and welcomes both adults and kids. Unfortunately we didn’t get to better our culinary skills due to Covid limitations.

Abbeyshrule is the last drop off location for bikes from the Midland Cycle Hub, and for those looking to spend the night, the food at the Rustic Inn and welcome at the Abbeyview House B&B are excellent.

Note there is no public transport links from Abbeyshrule, but there is a bus route (number 466, running twice daily) from Ballymahon to Longford.

Center Parcs Longford Forest

I’ve left the biggest perhaps the biggest draw for families the country over to Longford till last. The exclusive resort situated in over 400 acres of woodland can accommodate up to 2500 people 466 self-catering lodges and 30 apartments. The park boasts Ireland’s largest indoor waterpark, and hundreds of outdoor and indoor activities. There are a host of restaurants and cafes too. For those of a more mature mindset, the Aqua Sana Spa offers a range of treatments. Exactly where I would like to find myself after a day on the ziplines and waterpark. 3, 4 or 7 night says ca be booked direct with Center Parcs Longford Forest.

Transport to Longford

Longford is well serviced by both road and public transport links. By road, the N4 and M4 connect it to Dublin and Sligo, the N5 to Knock and Westport, with the N55 and A3 connecting to Belfast. Galway, and the west of Ireland is linked via the M6 and N55 which connects to Ballymahon.

The Dublin- Sligo train from Dublin Connolly station takes around 1 hour and 50 minutes, while bus routes 22 and 23 travel via Longford on their way to Sligo and Ballina respectively.

Ideally to see Longford’s attractions which are scattered throughout the county, a car is our recommended mode of travel.

Where to Stay in County Longford

Viewmount House – The finest hotel in Longford

Built in 1620 this Manor House played an important role in the history of Longford. The Baron of Longford, Lord Francis Xavier made it his home after being awarded his title. The house in its present day Georgian style was redesigned by Thomas Pakenham in the mid 1700s. A man with a good eye. After a few centuries as a school, and as a private home of a gardener and farm, the boutique hotel as we see it now emerged.

Trading for the last 30 years the hotel is the finest in the county. Each unique room is full of antiques and original pieces of art, all collected by the owners over the years. The many sitting rooms and library are akin to a museum. To walk through the hotel doors is as if to walk 100 years back in time. Modern conveniences are provided of course but subtlety.

We stayed in room 26, and were gobsmacked. The rooms take their names from the old families of Longford. The suites are dedicated to the Pakenhams, with ours called the Cuffe Suite. Spread across 2 floors, our suite was amazing. The upper was the bedroom while the lower was a huge spacious sitting room.

We marvelled at the intricate detail of the Victorian changing screen that filled one corner of the bedroom. It’s one of the many ornaments and works of art that decorated the room. But above all the room is comfortable, from the large king size bed to the couches below it. The bathroom features a jacuzzi bath to relax in, and I duly obliged to sink into that.

The gardens surrounding the house transport you into another time too, one where the houses 19th century residents used as a place of relaxation and solace. Statues and sculptures are dotted throughout including a magnificent pair of lions that guard its castellated gate. A rich variety of plants and shrubs fill the flower beds. A personal favourite was the water lilies in the pond.

Viewmount houses appeal extended beyond its furnishings. Breakfast is served in the Georgian dining room. The fantastic menu includes the expectant full Irish, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, and for those looking for something with a pinch of Longford tradition in it, the boxty benedict. Smoked bacon, poached eggs and tomato are served with boxty, a potato pancake that is indigenous to the Irish midlands.

Where Viewmount House really comes into its own is for dinner. Renowned as the best restaurant in Longford, it has also won awards as the best in the province of Leinster. No mean feat considering that includes Dublin. The lunch menu includes sea bass, lamb shoulder and the 48 hour roasted featherblade of beef, which is to die for. Dishes such as monkfish, quail, grilled scallop and pork belly are found on the dinner menu.

It’s worth coming to Longford merely for the experience of dining and staying at Viewmount House. A true hidden gem. Book your stay direct at Viewmount House.

Bramblewick House

Our first night in Longford was spent glamping in the grounds of Bramblewick House. If you are looking for an alternative place to stay in Longford, look no further.  The glamping experience comes in the form of Shepherds Huts, that have a level of comfort that even the most hotel loyal traveller (that’s us) will enjoy. 

Bramblewick House is run by Amy, and as well as the two glamping huts, she runs a handmade craft business from home selling soap, candles, crotchet, wooden boxes and notebooks. It all adds to the authentic atmosphere and Amy is a delight, welcoming us into her home to see her crafts. At the moment they are adding a craft workshop to allow her to expand the business.  

Originally from the UK, she moved to the area 5 years ago and started to pursue her dream. Speaking of the area, the house is found up a narrow lane near the town of Drumlish. It’s quite the peaceful setting. 

The two huts have different themes, with ours called the chicken hut. Chickens are a constant theme throughout, and the place is full of little touches all making it warm and cosy. From the outside they seem small, but is instead Tardis like. A double bed, kitchen, and full bathroom all fit together in a perfect layout inside. Hot water and cooking is provided by gas. 

There’s more! Each hut has its owned seated area, and the gardens have a BBQ area to enjoy a few beers around. The gardens are worthy of exploring and contain some whimsical statues. Though it’s best not to stray to the bees at the end. 

You’ll have to bring your own food as with all glamping, but there’s a large supermarket in the nearby Drumlish. Alternatively, Longford is only ten minutes drive away so you can always grab an Indian from Spice India like we did. Then relax the night away in perfect rural surroundings. Book your stay at Bramblewick House here. 

AbbeyView House

The last stop of the Longford section of the Royal Canal Greenway is Abbeyshrule, and there is truly nowhere better to stay than Abbeyview House. There is a real genuine and warm welcome from Susan and her family who live in at this beautiful B&B. 

The house itself was built in 1830 or thereabouts and is possibly the combination of two different houses. It’s history traces back to a mill owner who converted it into the large building it is now. After passing through various hands it served as a police barracks for 50 years. The owners bought it 7 years ago and converted into B&B in 2019. 

It has a real feel of an authentic country house of the time. High ceilings, fireplaces, art, and grandfather clocks add to that air. Our room was up two flights of stairs, and was once the bedroom of the master of the house. The large room was adjoined by his changing room, where servants would change and wash him. 

Great care has been taken to keep the room as it might have been, with panelled walls, art, and floral tiles. Of course the modern conveniences such as showers have been added. A freestanding bath is the centerpiece of the room though. For anyone who has spent a long day on the Greenway, this is Mecca. No better way to soak those tired limbs. 

Of course a B&B is only as good as the second B there, and Abbeyview House serves up an excellent one. The spread on the table is classical, with fine porcelain and good variety. We settled for the full Irish, and the huge breakfast set us right up for a day of travelling. 

Abbeyview house have plans to add glamping to their services over the next year, as numbers on the Greenway are steadily increasing.  

Where to Eat and Drink in County Longford

Resturants

Vocellas 

Vocellas represents a good option in Longford for those looking for a more European cuisine. Located on Main street, their menu is mainly Mediterranean with distinct Italian and Spanish influences. They provide both indoor and outdoor dining at the moment. Service was very pleasant and the food was delicious in particular the calamari starter. Items such as Bolognese, carbonara, and penne all’arrabbiata are complemented by burgers and steaks.

Viewmount House

I’ve already sold the merits of dining in Viewmount House, in that it is undoubtedly the finest restaurant in the county. An experience worth having. See more in the Viewmount House section above.

Spice India 

Spice India, found on Ballymahon Street Longford, is part of a chain with branches across the midlands. Spice India has won the best World Cuisine award for Leinster on in 2 of the last 4 years. Of the two restaurants Spice India is more traditional with only a few Thai dishes straying into the menu. We only tried the Korma, which was creamy and full of flavour. I’ll be back.

Bars and Bar Food

Valentines 

Valentines on Main Street is, and has been the centre of nightlife in Longford for several decades now. They don’t serve food, instead focus on their liquid output. It’s the perfect place to try one of the craft beers from the local St Mels Brewery.

The Rustic Inn 

The village of Abbeyshrule is dominated by The Rustic Inn, a fine gastro pub. With a roaring hearth to warm you in winter, and lots of outdoor seating it’s equipped for all seasons. The food is hearty too as one would expect. Irish and European is the theme, so BBQ chicken wings, deep fried brie, salmon, plaice and several steaks are featured. The steaks featured on our plates too. The Irish Hereford fillet was huge cooked perfect, and was extraordinarily good value. Unfortunately it left no space for dessert.

Cafes and Bakeries

The Wooden Spoon 

This colourful café sits in the heart of Lanesborough and beckoned us in after our boat trip. They offer a menu that is extraordinary value for money, but with huge portions and packing plenty of taste. Trust me, we didn’t complain. The burgers came fully loaded with chips, salad and onion rings on the plate. Irish and European staples again fill the menu, proving they are very popular with the locals here.

O’Hehirs Bakery and Café 

A great stop for those who like their lunches fast and baked like I do. The bakery sells a good selection of baked goods, while the café has sandwiches, sausage rolls and other warm tasties. Don’t leave town without picking up one of their Apple pies, they are as good as any I’ve ever tasted.  

Red Rose Cafe 

With over 20 years presence on Longford’s Dublin Street, the Red Rose Café has consistently been serving traditional and comforting food to the town. The interior is warm and snug and bright art greets you at the entrance. The menu won’t surprise with offerings such as all day breakfast, turkey and ham, salmon and burgers, but sometimes that’s just what you need. A firm favourite of my mum and dad. Excellent value too.

30 Flavours of Portugal. 

A recent opening in town, this bakery is found next to Aldi, so if your picking up provisions it’s definitely worth nipping into. The baked goods are baked by a Portuguese native, so you can guarantee the pastel de natas are done the right way. They are delicious and cheap as chips too.

From cultural and historical experiences, good dining, to a whole host of outdoor walking and cycling routes, there is no shortage of things to enjoy in Longford. It is certainly a county where tourism is on the rise.

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I make no secret of my love of County Clare in Ireland. Beata and I have travelled here three times over the years we have been together. The place keeps drawing us back. But up until now, we never found the place to stay in that we truly loved. Enter Doolin on the Wild Atlantic Way! It will be hard to look elsewhere for our next trip west to the Banner County.

Oddly up until now I’ve never written about Clare, always feeling that I need to know more before I can paint a true picture of just how great a place it is. But of late I’m getting there. So let’s begin with what to do in Doolin Ireland.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

11 Excellent Things to do in Doolin

Visit the Cliffs of Moher

Of course we will start with the Cliffs of Moher as the number one thing to do in Doolin. If not Ireland. Those magnificent cliffs rise and fall for 14 kilometres along the Atlantic coastline, hitting a highest point of 214 metres. It’s one of Ireland’s biggest attractions, shaped by nature over 300 million years ago, and receives over 1.5 million visitors a year. The principal way to access to cliffs is at the visitor centre. This is open from 8am to 9pm, and the prices vary throughout the day. Visitors must book online here before coming. For those who travel by car there is a large parking facility.

First stop of a visit is the exhibition on the cliffs and the gift shop. But the cliffs are why you are here so don’t spend too long. That iconic view looking south along the cliffs is practically the first thing you see. This One…

At the high point of the cliffs you’ll see O’Brien’s Tower, which was built in 1835 as a lookout tower. The tower has been reopened and can be seen on some guided tours. From here, it’s up to you where you go. Trails go north towards Doolin, or south to Moher Tower built to keep an eye out for Napoleon. He never came. The castle that once stood here gave the cliffs its name. Bear in mind whichever way you go you’ll have to come back. You can guarantee though that all the way you’ll see some of Ireland’s best views.

It’s nearly always windy on the Cliffs of Moher (in my experience) so come prepared for that. And when I say windy I mean windy. Wrap up!

Doolin to Cliffs of Moher Walk

The cliffs of Moher can also be visited by walking the 8 kilometres from Doolin, along a spectacular route near the cliffs edge. You can do this by yourself by taking the R459 south from Doolin and joining the cliff path. Don’t fancy the coastal walk all on your own? Then join up with a small group walking tour with Ollie’s Tours, which runs daily at 10am from Doolin.

Bask in the Cliffs of Moher Sunset

If there’s one time of day that I love to be on the Cliffs of Moher it’s sunset. Be sure to arrive an hour before sunset to get out onto the cliffs to a place where you can appreciate it. Even though the car park closes at nine – don’t worry about that, you can still get out. So take your time and appreciate natures daily marvel. Every part of the cliffs provide a somewhat different angle, as the path drops and rises. My favourite is surely with O’Brien’s Tower as the foreground though.

Stroll through Doolin’s Colourful Village Centre, a foodie haven.

Doolin village is one built for postcards, especially that famed view from the bridge over the River Aille. The thatched cottage here is one of the most famous in Ireland, bright pink with a pair of dormer windows. It houses the sweater shop nowadays, a hint to what lies down the road at the pier (and over the ocean).

But the village is more than a cottage, and sprawls back up along both sides of the road, with more than enough restaurants, pubs and craft shops to keep any visitor content. Foodies will be delighted by Anthony’s, the Cheese Press, Russells Fish Shop, Glas, the Ivy Cottage Cafe, and the Stonewall Cafe, which serve the best in local and artisan produce.

Have a night out in Doolin Pubs and their traditional Irish music scene

Doolin is famed for its long association with traditional Irish Music and to this day it’s pubs continue that tradition. Some say Doolin is the home of Irish music (though Connemara might have a thing to say about that). The legacy centres on the Russell Brothers, Pakie, Micho, and Gussie, legends in their field. They were widely regarded as the best Irish musicians around, with Gussie in particular finding international fame and renown.

Their chosen venue in Doolin was Gus O’Connors pub which has been around since 1832. Though the Russell’s are sadly no longer with us, the pub and budding new musicians keep the sessions going. It’s hard to look past O’Connors when looking for a great night out in Doolin, and don’t plan an early start the following day. There’s always a session to be found elsewhere though and McGann’s, McDermotts and Fitzpatrick’s bars have live music several nights a week too.

*It’s worth noting that under current coronavirus restrictions, pubs aren’t permitted to have live music. Let’s hope we get the craic back soon.

Go down 80 metres into Doolin cave to see Europe’s largest stalactite

So we’ve all been to show caves, and lets be honest now they aren’t too much different than each other. You might even have visited the far more popular Aillwee Caves down the road in the Burren. So why would you bother with the Doolin Cave you ask? Because it’s different. Doolin Cave is home to the Great Stalactite, which at 7.3 metres tall (are stalactites tall if they grow downwards?) is the largest free-hanging stalactite in Europe.

The caves are visited by guided tour between 10-6. Prices are €17.50 for an adult, or €8.50 for a child. The guided tour lasts an hour, and takes you down 120 steps and 80 metres to reach the cave, so remember this if you plan to visit. But if you think that’s hard imagine spelunkers who crawled for hours in the dark to find it. Now there’s a nice path, flanked by a subterranean river, which leads us through the caves features. There are some amazing fossils embedded in the cave walls, echoes of a time long gone. One crinoid is 360 million years old.

The tours main focus is the stalactite and its introduced in style. To preserve it, it usually sits in darkness, but of course that wouldn’t be much fun. So when the tour reaches it, the lights are flung on and it is unveiled in all its splendor. Yes it’s huge, overshadowing a large cavern. The path is carefully managed to allow us to appreciate it from all sides and learn about its development over 250,000 years. Then once more it returns to darkness and us to finish the tour.

Taste the best of Doolin food on a Food Tour

One of the best experiences in Doolin is taking the Doolin Food Tour with Ollie’s Tours. Full of banter and stories, and of course lots of great food. The tours are run by Ollie, a lad with Clare in his heart, who returned from Germany with a dream of showing Clare to visitors. With a strong seafood focus, the small group tour moves from Doolin to Lisdoonvarna, as we sample organic Irish Salmon, fish and chips, Irish cheeses, and coffee.

Of course it wouldn’t be Irish without a stop in a pub, and the tour does this. Twice. Firstly, the Burren Brewery presents it’s unique craft beers, before J.J. Corry whiskey bonders teach us about the art of blending whiskey. One assumes you’ve already figured the art of drinking it.

The tour is a must for foodies in Doolin, and we thoroughly enjoyed our experience with Ollie’s Tours. Have a read about it.

Take in the Doonagore Castle views

Located on a hill above the village of Doolin, is this fairytale-like castle. Sadly Doonagore Castle privately owned and not possible to visit the interior. So there’s no point visiting is there. Au contraire, there’s every point. Being only a few minutes walk or drive from Doolin, take the same route as you would to walk to the Cliffs of Moher. Instead of turning along the path to the cliffs, stick to the road and the climb to the castle. This is the first of those wonderful views. The second is when you round the corner and the castle, coastline and Atlantic Ocean stretch out before you. Beautiful.

Take care if you are driving up as parking spaces are non existent. For safety’s sake stay away from the bend and pull in further along the road. Pedestrians keep an eye out for cars on this narrow single lane road.

The Castle is a round tower house, about 450 years old and was built by the O’Connors or the O’Briens. They were two of the more powerful families in the area. It’s darkest history came in 1588 when 170 soldiers from a ship of the liberating Spanish Armada landed here. Their journey ended here with the hangman’s noose, and the armadas mission ended in failure.

Cliffs of Moher cruise

Not that I’m hung up on the Cliffs of Moher (and you shouldn’t be either as its the best things to do in Doolin) but there is one more way to see the Cliffs of Moher. Why not see them from the other side. The bottom. Doolin 2 Aran Ferries offer boat tours of the cliffs through the Atlantic Ocean.

If the excitement of seeing the cliffs from the bottom isn’t enough, let me throw in some puffins. From April to July the clowns of the sea nest in the rocks here. Along with some 20,000 other birds including razorbills, shags, and all manner of gulls. The 50 minute tour can be booked on the website. Better still it can be combined with a trip to the Aran Islands.

Aran islands – The best things to do in Doolin, which isn’t in Doolin

The Aran Islands have some of the wildest landscapes in the country, and are easily recognised by the stone walls that zigzag from coast to coast. Doolin 2 Aran ferries offer a number of sailings each day to all three islands from Doolin pier. Each of them is easily visited on a day trip from Doolin. The largest of the islands is Inis Mor, and it’s also the most visited. Of the other two Inis Oirr is the more popular, with the Plassey Shipwreck a big draw.

For those short on time, Inis Mor is the best option. A 10 am sailing will give 5 hours on the island before a return boat at 4pm. Once there, it’s worth noting that the only cars on the island are owned by locals, so there are 3 ways to get around, by bus tour, horse and carriage or renting a bike. The most liberating is the bike tour and with Aran Bike Hire located just as you get off the boat, the easiest also. They’ll give you a handy map of the island to get around with too.

A bike lets you see the island as you would want. Take one of the old narrow farm tracks as we did. You can’t get lost really, it’s a small island. Lost in your own happiness maybe. There are some sights you might want to visit, such the church at Teampaill Bheanain, beehive huts at Clochan na Carraige, and Kilmurvey Beach.

But Inis Mor’s main draw are the 3000 year old stone forts Dun Duchathair and Dun Aonghasa. The latter in particular is very impressive sitting at the top of 87 metre cliffs, and exposed to the wild Atlantic. From its elevated portion Inis Mor’s barren landscape stretches out, a stark reminder of what life might have been like here a few millennia ago. Take care on the cliff edge, nothing separates you from the long drop to the ocean below.

Red Bull fans will have to seek out the Wormhole, an unusual rectangular hole, that looks like a natural swimming pool. Red Bull used it for a diving competition. It’s not as inviting as it look though, several people have had to be rescued from it, as they were nearly washed out to sea. Enjoy with your eyes is my advice.

Carrying cash on the Aran Islands is a must as some services such as the bike hire only accept it. A rain jacket is a must too, as there’s not much shelter out there, and this be Ireland. Of course there’s nothing better to overcome the wind here than a warm sweater, and this is Aran, home of the sweater. A trip to Aran isn’t complete without a stop into the Aran Sweater Shop in Kilronan.

Stay and eat in the Doolin Inn

Looking for an overnight option in Doolin? Look no further than the Doolin Inn. It’s ranked among the top ten inns in the country. My first question was what’s the difference between an inn, a Hotel, and a B&B. I guess it lies somewhere in the middle. The Doolin Inn exceeded expectations, and would slot in easily as a very good four star hotel.

The staff were superb, room was comfortable and clean, and the food… The food was simply amazing. All served in Anthony’s restaurant, which takes its name from the owner. Breakfast nailed the recent inability to have a buffet by bringing a mini one to your table, and the pancakes, omelette and old full Irish were perfect. Dinner is just as amazing. Perfect was the prawns and chorizo. Options like Fillet steak, cod with couscous, risotto and halibut keep the consistency going into the mains. It’s a great one-stop-shop for your trip to Doolin.

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Temple Bar is a good central starting point to anyone wanting to make a dent on the Dublin street art scene. The whole route is only 1.4 kilometres in length, which should take no more than 6 hours. However if you can resist the lure of those 8 pints of Guinness, the hearty Irish meals and the foot stompingly good Irish ballads in the pubs, then you can do it all in 15-20 minutes.

I’ve walked the following route and saved it to Alltrails. So you don’t get lost in the narrow streets or alleyways that zigzag through Temple Bar, here’s the link to save the day. Though many a day has been lost in Temple Bar with no memory of where or what happened. Though hardly in search of street art.

The best route for the Temple Bar Street Tour

The walking tour begins on O’Connell Bridge, about as central as you can get in the city. Walk down Aston Quay and enter Temple Bar via Price’s Lane. On your right is this seductive piece by Canvaz from Galway. Turning left on to Fleet Street we walk to the top and the intersection with Westmoreland Street for an entry from Dublin Canvas. This is known as Party Huns and is by Claire Provost a French illustrator operating in Dublin. Definitely a reference to the night life in the streets nearby.

Retracing our steps back along Fleet Street to the corner of Parliament Row, we come across a wall frequently changed by Subset. Now we have one by artists called Submission Control, featuring a series of wrestling maneuvers. Perhaps there is a deep meaning to it. Perhaps it’s just for fun and colour pop though. This is Submission 1. You’ll find some others in Terenure, Harolds Cross and off Camden Street.

We are back down the side streets on Aston Place to the colourful Icon Factory shop and enter Bedford Lane. This lane is a tribute to musicians of ireland and known as Icon Lane, but also has its share of street art. The ones dominating it are by Kevin Bohan especially his newbie “Inner City Blues” which marks the 50 year anniversary of the Marvin gaye album What’s Going On. Kevin Bohan is constantly striving to see Temple Bar be protected for its artistic qualities as well as its commercial ones.

Temple Bar’s heart & it’s most impressive murals

Turning the corner take a short walk to the Auld Dubliner Pub, turn, and take in the scale of the Subset mural on the building behind. It’s message relates to the seas and oceans and the plastic being dumped there and ruining the ecosystem. It’s huge and so is its message. Incidentally I used to work in the Auld Dub Pub.

Continuing straight on Angelsea Street til you get to the Blooms Hotel. The entire colourful facade is our next highlight, painted by James Earley and featuring characters from Ulysses by James Joyce. Quite fitting for a hotel called Blooms. Cope street, then Crown Alley, take us past a couple of colourful store fronts and we land in the heart of Temple Bar and its square. Avoiding the aforementioned temptations, we follow Temple Bar’s main cobblestone street, and a short detour to a Kinmx storefront on Fownes Street Lower. Mexican-born, but living in Dublin, she’s my favourite Irish based street artist.

After a left at the institution which is the Temple Bar pub, you’ll find there are a some worthy distractions on the narrow streets of Temple Lane, Crow Street, and a brilliant portrait by @tizxl on Cecilia Street. A Banksy that once was here no longer exists. If it was ever really a Banksy. Does anyone ever really know?

The Final stages of our Temple Bar tour

Our Temple Bar Street Art Tour continues onto Curved Street with some of Pens Pigeons on our right. Above is a portrait of Irish musician, DJ, and broadcaster BP Fallon painted by Maser. Turns on to Eustace Street and Essex Street follow, before a large scale artwork of Irish Olympic Pentathlete Natayla Coyle by artist Sufek West. It’s one of three commissioned by Indeed, with another on Camden Row, Dublin, and Victoria Road, Cork. See Mary’s Bar on your left? Look up above for a quite Stag by James Earley.

We are fast running out of Temple bar streets, but take Sycamore Street up to Dame Street, and spot Dead Meat by Conor harrington. The dead cow is a metaphor for waste and excess in this consumerist society. Our time on Dame Street is brief as we turn down into Campton Court next to the Olympia Theatre.

Here we find “Love The Lanes”, an Anna Doran led initiative to bring colour to the small back lanes of Temple Bar. On Love Lane the walls and pavements are a canvas, and it’s the most colourful dark alleyway in Dublin, you’ll ever have the pleasure of walking down.

Our tour finally wanders onto Parliament street where we find a few beautiful entries by Dublin Canvas, by Iljin and Paul Lucaci. However your exploration of Dublin street art doesn’t need to stop here. Take a journey through the street art of Dublin on one of my other suggested walking tours, in this article- Street Art of Dublin.

The Love Lane Temple Bar

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Ireland has an excellent and growing street art scene. Towns and cities such as Longford and Waterford both have a strong scene made better by annual street art festivals. They are really worth a look.

Let me know if you take the Temple Bar Street art tour, and what you thought of it. Thanks for reading.