Longford surprised me. Having grown up here, taking a trip to a place of interest usually involved a spin down the road to another county, particularly one bordering an ocean or sea. Tourists in Longford usually consisted of a few anglers trying their luck on the counties rivers.

Longford has come a long way as a tourist county over the last few years. Previously it was a string of market towns servicing the local population. No more! With the advent of the Failte Ireland initiative, Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands, (focusing on the then unfashionable counties that border the River Shannon), and the opening of Center Parcs Longford Forest, the county has seen a significant growth in tourist facilities.

Now the county numbers several attractions charting its history, one of the best greenways in the country, and an unrivalled family resort. It also has one of Ireland’s greatest Iron Age mysteries in the trackway at Corlea Bog.

Longford is best seen on wheels, either on two or four. North Longford by car and South Longford by bike. With a solid recommendation on how to see the county coming from the team from Longford Tourism, we spent 3 full days in the county, first viewing the history and natural walks of the north county, then exploring its many towns, before taking to the Royal Canal greenway. We left more than impressed with the many things to do in Longford.

We travelled to Longford at the invitation of Longford Tourism, for a three day FAM trip. While much of what we visited was sponsored, all views expressed are my own. I would like to thank Tara, Dympna and Denise for their kind assistance in organising the trip, and also all the business owners for their warm welcome, time, energy and hard work. For a full guide to the county visit the site www.Longford.ie

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

EZxploring maps- an interesting way to see the best things in Longford

Seeing Longford is made all the more easier by picking up the free EZxploring maps from local libraries or heritage centres. The maps contain a plethora of info on each towns architecture and history. They are also really interactive so kids will love them too and learn of heritage along the way. Not just kids might I add. At present there are EZxploring maps of Longford, Ballymahon, Edgeworthstown, Granard, Lanesborough, Ardagh and of the Royal Canal Greenway.

Things to do in Longford – Day One – North Longford Road Trip

As you hit Longford, and assuming you are coming from a Dublin direction the first town you’ll meet (or bypass if you follow the road- DON’T do that) is Edgeworthstown. Home to a museum dedicated to its most famous citizens, there’s actually quite a lot to this rare spoken of town. From there, our road trip moves north to Granard. The Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre is the most fun you’ll have in the county, and that includes the pubs. Learn all about its Norman history and get introduced to Longford’s part in the failed 1798 rebellion.

After appreciating nature on some of North Longford’s walks, we learn more of the rebellion in the town of Ballinamuck, the site of a major battle in 1798, before travelling back towards Longford town. GPS is a must for some of these locations as they can otherwise be hard to find. Even for a local.

Edgworthstown

Edgeworthstown is about 90 minutes from Dublin, on the N4 heading west. The town’s history is centred around the Edgeworth family, the extremely fair landlords who resided in a nearby manor house. The town grew with their help and their impact can be seen right across the town. There is street parking throughout the town for €1 per hour, and it’s important to display your ticket on the dash.

Maria Edgeworth Centre

Located in the old school on Ballymahon Road, is a museum dedicated to Maria Edgeworth. Maria Edgeworth for those who don’t know, was a leading Irish literary writer in the early 19th century. Her most noted works are Castle Rackrent, Ennui , The Absentee, and Ormond. Her works sadly haven’t received the same modern attention as some of her peers, but during her life she was revered as one of the finest minds around and was a regular confident of some of Britain’s and Ireland’s top economists and novelists.

As well as being a writer, she was a strong educational campaigner, striving to upgrade the rote learning system, and seeking education for all in Ireland irrespective of religion or class.

Her extended family too were most certainly of note. The museum weaves a story that includes the relation who administered last rites to Louis XVI, her father Richard who was a politician, writer and inventor, and her various connections with high class society at the time.

It certainly taught me quite a few things about my local history. An audio guide is offered to take you through the full story of this very intriguing family, with a wall full of portraits introducing us to the various players. Entry to the Maria Edgeworth Centre is €5.

You can pick up the EZxploring maps and an audio guide of Edgeworthstown from the centre before venturing out to explore the town.

Granard

Granard has been the location of a settlement since the year 236 AD, and has a significant history going back through the centuries. Irish tribes used it for its dominant position atop a hill. They weren’t very welcoming of St Patrick when he came calling. Queen Maebh is said to have stopped here with her army in the Tain. When the Normans came, Richard de Tuite built a motte atop a hill here in the 13th century, which at 166 metres above sea level, is the highest in the country.

Granard is about 11 kilometres from Edgeworthstown on the N55. Parking is at the Knights and Conquests heritage centre, which is our excellent first stop before we explore the town.

Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre- Where history and fun collide

Knights and Conquests is a relatively new attraction in the county, and charts the Norman history of Granard and their successful invasion of Ireland in the 12th century. The visitor centre lies below the Motte on Granard’s outskirts. While anticipating the visitor centre to be educational (the town has quite the history, from the Norman’s, the 1798 rebellion, and the links to Michael Collins), we really weren’t expecting just how fun it was going to be. Undoubtedly the most fun thing to in Longford.

Run by Bartle and Deirdre, two of the most enthusiastic tour guides we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting, Knights and Conquests is a hoot. It’s interactive throughout, from donning shields, swords, chain mail and helmets as a Norman, to swinging swords and being used as target practice for Bartle’s crossbow skills. It totally puts you in the mind of the Norman warrior of the day and made all the better by the hosts great sense of humour.

It’s informative of course too, with a video and plenty of exhibitions on the Norman invasion, way of life, and all that followed in the centuries after. A room is dedicated to Kitty Kiernan one of Granard’s famous citizens. She was the beau of Michael Collins, and their story is one of Ireland’s most tragic love stories. The interpretative centre has some uniforms of the style used by Collins during the Irish Civil War, so of course we had to try those on too.

Lastly I was dressed in pantaloons and the attire of a rebel from the 1798 rebellion, who fought in Granard and were cruelly executed at the nearby Motte.  So perhaps I looked a little ridiculous but I’m always up for that. We love interactive exhibits like this. They are some of our favourite tours and Knights and Conquests easily joins the list of the best we’ve been to. 

They have some amazing plans to expand and build a Norman village on the site, with a working mill and much more. I’ll be watching that development closely and returning.

Better yet all this fun only costs €6 for an adult, and €4 for kids. That’s about 10 cents a laugh by my calculation. Great value. they also open 7 days a week for tours. Visit the Knights and Conquests website here.

Derrycassin Woods walking trails

The first of the walks of North Longford, this woodland area has a number of trails. At one time this was the location of Derrycassan House and the estate of the Dopping-Hepenstal family. The manor house has since disappeared but there are still traces of the walled gardens. Throughout there are a number of trails, none more than about 3km long. They can be linked to appreciate the old estate and the views of the nearby Lough Gowna. In spring the woods are alive with colours of bluebells and rhododendrons.

The woods are located between Granard and Aughnacliffe near Dring. Speaking of Dring, there is a stunning fishing pier here overlooking Lough Gowna. It’s the perfect place for a picnic, though there is no protection near the waters edge if kids are in tow.

Aughnacliffe

Aughnacliffe is a small village on our route, but it’s not without its charms. On approach from Dring keep an eye out for the sign for Pulliness waterfall. There’s a short walk down to the waterfall and though small, it’s pleasant.

A few hundred metres further along the road a small sign will point you to the 5000 year old Aughnacliffe Portal Dolmen. In the case of both this and the waterfall there is no parking, so park roadside, taking care not to block entrances to houses. The dolmen is a little harder to get too, as it’s through two fields.

Proceed through the first field to find a gateway in the far right corner and within the next field you will find the portal Dolmen. They may or may not have livestock, so don’t bring a dog as this can unsettle them. Take care around animals especially cattle. That’s no bull. The Dolmen is right in the middle of a field, and is fully intact, with two capstones. One is almost three metres in length, making it the third biggest in Ireland.

Just off the heart of the village it the beautiful lakeside Leebeen park, complete with children’s playground, and an imaginative fairy garden. A walkway follows the small lake nearby too making this a lovely stop, especially with kids.

Ballinamuck

Ballinamuck is located 11 km from Aughnacliffe and was the scene of the Battle of Ballinamuck on 8th September 1798. An Irish backed French force under General Humbert had been victorious in the battle of Castlebar, in County Mayo. As they moved across the country they were pursued by two huge British armies under Lord Cornwallis and General Lake. Finally they made a stand in Ballinamuck. The battle lasted less than an hour, and was a disaster for the rebels. While the British suffered 12 losses, some 500 Irish and French lay dead. The remaining French surrendered, but the Irish rebels were given no quarter. The remaining were followed to the bog and bayoneted.

There is a memorial and a visitor centre dedicated to the fateful events of that day, within the village. The visitor centre recounts the details of that day. A statue of a pikeman (a pike was the only weapon the Irish had), shows how ill-equipped the Irish were against the heavily armed British.

Entry to the visitor centre a the moment is only by self guided tour. The key is available from Dillon’s Pub across the road.

Edenmore Bog walk

Just outside of the village is the Edenmore bog walk. Ireland has over 50 % of the raised bogland in Europe, and while it traditionally was harvested as a fuel for homes, there has been a growing movement away from fossil fuels, and bogs are being conserved. This is excellent news for the visitor as bogs are full on unique flora and fauna that only grow and live in these unusual conditions.

The Edenmore bog is no exception. A 4.5 km circular walk follows a solid trail underfoot and loops back to the small car park. It’s all signposted within so no fear of being lost in the bog. Wildlife is in abundance with a possibility of seeing Pine Martens at dawn and dusk, and birds such as Stonechats, Skylarks, Meadow Pipits, and Willow warblers. Butterflies and Dragonflies prance around the area. There are fascinating plants too, such as Sundew and Bladderwort that feed on insects.

It’s great to see an alternative use to Ireland’s boglands and them used as a local and tourist amenity. The have a close tie to our history and some of our most intact discoveries have been made in boglands. Very recently a full suit of Norman chainmail was found near Granard. The bog bodies found in Ireland is perhaps the most ghoulish and fascinating display in Dublin’s National History Museum. One wonders what else lies undiscovered under all that peat.

What other things are there to do in North Longford

The final leg of our best of North Longford driving tour took us through the village of Ennybegs. Notable is the small white parish church, but it’s the James Farrell Titanic memorial garden opposite that brought us here. James Farrell grew up here, before seeking a new life on the ill fated ships voyage.

Farrell is remembered for his heroics aboard the ship, where he pleaded for the lives of some female companions when they were blocked from reaching the lifeboats. After been left through he accompanied them to the boats where he watched them escape to safety. His body was found 8 days later. It’s an heroic story worth reading at the memorial. It was also told in the 1958 movie, A Night to Remember.

Our resting spot for the night would be the town of Drumlish, and the shepherds huts at Bramblewick House. More on this wonderful glamping site later. But first we spun by Drumlish Mill, a corn mill built in 1854, and a beautiful feature of the town. Sadly it can’t be visited, but it can most certainly be admired.

Corn Hill Walking Trail

Visiting in summer, there was the prospect of a late sunset, so we aimed for one more walk, and the hope of watching the sun set over the Irish midlands from Longford’s highest point. As is often the case in Ireland, clouds had a different idea. But that doesn’t take away from the walk.

Corn Hill at 278 metres is the third smallest high point of Ireland’s counties. But with no other hills of note in the county it does have prominence. A recent addition is the 3 km loop trail from a newly installed car park. The walk does have steep parts and most of it is over dirt track, but it is certainly classified as easy. The best views are north in the initial ascent, but the furthest point, facing west, is where we had hoped to catch the sunset. A number of picnic benches are installed here to take in the phenomenon.

At the top of corn hill are two cairns, from which it gets its name. Dating back around 5000 years, one has sustained damage. They are heavily linked to Irish mythology, including the story of the Tain, and an ancient witch known as Cailleach a Bheara.

Longford Town, Ardagh & Lough Ree- Day Two in Longford

Things to do in Longford Town

Longford town is the county town of Longford, and at first glance seems little more. But a deeper look brings it’s historical past to the fore. At its heart is St Mel’s Cathedral, easily the most standout building in the town, and one of Ireland’s finest cathedrals. A walk through the town will also highlight its military and industrial past.

Longford’s history is closely linked to the O’Farrell clan who were the rulers of Annaly, the old name for the area. They ruled the area from the 11th through the 17th century, at which point in 1621, Francis Aungier (who had been the commissioner of the plantations of Munster) was made 1st Baron of Longford.

Thus began the history of Longford Town. To protect the new lands, a castle was built in the town in 1627 in the area which is now Connolly Barracks, on the site of an old O’Farrell fort. The castle was eventually converted to a manor house, and the title of Lord Longford passed to the Pakenham family. Their descendants still live to this day in Tullynally castle in Westmeath.

Sadly the castle was demolished in 1972 after falling into ruin. As the town grew so did its military significance. The barracks was established in the 1700’s by the ruling British empire, one of many throughout the country. Longford continued its development as a market and industrial town throughout the 18th to 20th centuries. Much of the towns main buildings were built in the 19th century such as the market square, court house, and banks.

What to do in Longford- take the Longford Town audio tour

To fully appreciate the town equip yourself with an EZxploring map and the new Longford Town Audio Tour, which is available from the town library or tourism office. Priced at €5 it’s an invaluable companion as you follow the towns streets and the Camlin river. It takes in everything you could hope to see in Longford and much more that even I was oblivious to. The library is located in Longford Town Centre and the tourism office in the market square. Both contain ample paid parking.

St Mel’s Cathedral

St Mel’s Cathedral is the Roman Catholic cathedral for the diocese of Ardagh and Clonmacnoise. It was constructed between 1840 and 1856, though this was disrupted by the Great Famine. Neo-Classical in style it is defined by its large limestone columns and high belfry. It stands tall above all other buildings in town, and is a must visit. The modern interior contains a pair of Harry Clarke stained glass windows, an Italian organ by Fratelli Ruffatti, and stained glass windows designed by Kim en Joong, a Dominican priest.

St Mel’s Cathedral is Longford’s own Notre Dame story. Gutted by fire in 2009, it received an overwhelming show of public support and funding. Following a restoration costing €30 million it reopened in 2014. Thankfully the Harry Clarke windows in the transepts survived, but relics such as the St Mel’s Crozier that were in the museum below were lost. The new cathedral is a must visit owing to its attractive interior and as a testament to the will of the people to restore a building of much local pride.

Ardagh Village

Ardagh is the jewel in Longford’s crown. The village is a joy to walk through, past Tudor-Gothic cottages and old churches, with only the occasional car and the song of birds to break the silence. It’s located 10 km from Longford (again use that GPS).

Ardagh has the most significant history of all of Longford too. In pre-Christian times the nearby Ardagh Mountain was revered on a par with locations such as the Hill of Tara, Bru na Boinne, or Rath Cruachan in Roscommon. The ancient tale of Etain and Midir was associated with Bri Leith, the ancient name of the mountain. With the coming of St Patrick, he deemed it important enough to establish a church, and his disciple St Mel, founded one in the location of the present day Ardagh village. A church would always be on this site and to this day an 11th century ruin still stands.

The village as we see it today is as a result of the Fetherston family who settled here in 1745 and built the huge and impressive Ardagh House. It can sadly only be admired from afar. Though it was them who commissioned the development of the estate village, which is said to have been based on a Swiss model. I’m not surprised, though it does bear a resemblance to some of the UK’s finest. At the heart of the village is a triangle with an ornate clock tower, and protestant church flanking on two sides. Ardagh is also heavily linked to Oliver Goldsmith, one of the regions greatest writers.

Just don’t take my word for it on how beautiful Ardagh is. It has won Ireland’s tidiest village on three occasions and numerous European awards. Few locations in Ireland possess as much charm.

Lanesborough and Lough Ree

Lanesborough is Longford’s main town on the River Shannon, Ireland’s longest river which flows for 360 kilometres. Lanesborough is a 19th century town, though it has been an important crossing point of the River Shannon for centuries. The first bridge was built here 300 years ago, and was the first crossing of the river north of Athlone. Nowadays it is a 6 arch structure, and the rivers banks have some of Longford’s finest scenery.

Lough Ree Access For All boat trip

We travelled to lanesborough to take a boat trip on the Shannon with Lough Ree access for all. This company is one of a kind in Ireland and the UK. Their specially commissioned boat was designed and built to accommodate wheelchairs. Run as a registered charity it’s fantastic that they give the disabled the chance to do something which was never before possible. The trip is a relaxing cruise up the river, taking in Lanesborough harbour and the green forested banks, in the company of the very hospitable driver and tour guide. Though the weather wasn’t great for our trip, the boat is fully covered and is adept for all conditions.

Only opened in 2020, Access for All was the brainchild of Alan Broderick and Ciaran Mullooly. It took 5 years to fundraise the €200,000 needed to build the boat. They have received an amazing response on the national level and their good work is widely recognised.

In addition to the one and a half hour boat trips, they also offer three hour fishing trips on the river. Fish commonly caught here include Perch, Roach and especially Pike who can be up 9 kg in size. You can book your trip with Lough Ree Access For All here.

After spending the day soaking up all that lakeside air, stay the night in Longford town, and the luxurious Viewmount House. Take in a show at the Backstage Theatre if you can.

Royal Canal Greenway- Day 3 of the best things to do in Longford

Longford’s newest attraction will also possibly become its biggest. It’s one that has been there a long time but finally getting the focus it needs. The Royal Canal was a project started in 1790, but took 27 years to complete, costing a huge £1.4 million. The heyday of canals was slowly coming to an end at this time with rail on the horizon. By 1880 the canal was no longer used and fell into disrepair for over a century. In the modern era it is the towpaths that are getting all the attention.

In 2021 the culmination of planning came to fruition and Ireland’s newest greenway the Royal Canal Greenway was opened. At 130 km it is Ireland’s longest, and the route spans from Cloondara in Longford to Maynooth in Kildare. An excellent facility for lovers of outdoors, it’s path is along a non vehicular traffic route, and suits both cyclists and walkers. Plenty of local wildlife can be seen by the canal side too.

The Longford stretch of the Greenway passes picnic sites, coffee huts, ruins, locks, and some really interesting towns and villages. A branch of the canal can be used to cycle to Longford town too. Unmissable are Keenagh, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule.

Along the route you’ll come across bronze shoes. These are from the National Famine Way trail which commemorates the 1490 people that walked this way in 1847, starving and in seek of a new life. Half perished on the journey and these bronze shoes are a poignant tribute to them and their hardships.

Midlands Cycle Hub Bike Hire – Cloondara

Our introduction to the Royal Canal Greenway was in the small village of Cloondara, via the Midlands Cycle Hub. Run by Robert Crilly, he only set up the business in early 2021, but it is already a roaring success. The hub have a variety of bikes from hybrid bikes, and mountain bikes to children’s bikes. Bikes can be delivered to and dropped off at a number of locations including Longford, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule, which is ideal for only cycling one way on the greenway. In addition, cycling tours can be arranged to suit different experience levels. Contact Midlands Cycle Hub to book yours.

Cloondara was the perfect place to begin. As the starting point of the Greenway, it’s where the canal meets an entry point to the River Shannon, and there is a beautiful harbour. Old mills nearby, have been preserved and converted into apartments, keeping the charms of the village. The bikes we got were excellent, putting to shame those that we have at home. We were pleasantly surprised how nice the greenway was to cycle on, at all times safe, peaceful and with green scenery around every gentle turn.

Before booking we had also arranged to get a picnic basket from the Richmond Inn. This is put together by the really pleasant Niamh, and they have a number of options to suit your budget. It’s fully recommended too as there are lots of beautiful picnic spots strewn along the route of the canal. Alternatively stop in at one of the coffee trailers or cafes at the various locks.

Keenagh

It’s 14 kilometres from Cloondara, to the first notable stop off the Greenway, Keenagh. The small village has Longford’s most important historical discovery, the Corlea Trackway. Besides that there are a number of ruins and structures all related to Mosstown House, an estate house of the Kingston family of the area. Those hungry after the cycle can check our Macs Shack in the centre.

The clock tower in Keenagh is an intriguing structure, built in honour of Laurence King-Harman, a local landlord who was considered fair and just. It dates from 1878.

Spare a few pedals for Mosstown Dovecote. It’s not easy to find this pigeon house, on a laneway not far from Mosstown Harbour on the canal, but it was once associated with Mosstown House which stood here. The three storey structure dates from 1750. Interesting that the pigeon house has outlasted the human house!

Corlea Trackway – the best thing to do in Longford for those with an interest in old Irish history

Keenagh’s and Longford’s finest archaeological site, was found in bogland a few kilometres outside the village. Dated at 147 BC it is the largest trackway of its kind to be found in Europe. Discovered in 1984, the Corlea Trackway is an Iron Age bog road that would have stretched for 1 kilometre over the surface of the bog allowing people and animals to cross. It was built using over 300 oak trees, that were expertly carved to link together and form a passable road. The huge effort in doing this suggests a massive public works scheme of its time, and gives evidence that it must have been carried out by someone of great importance.

However it can only be speculated as to the who, the why, or even the where to. The exact details of the trackway remain a mystery. Was it connecting some of Ireland’s great sites in the Hill of Tara, Hill of Uisneach and Rathcroghan? Was there something even greater, undiscovered at its end point? Was it built by Doc Brown so that his Delorean could build up enough speed to return after a disastrous attempt to time travel to the 60’s? No one will ever quite know. The closest clue comes in Irish mythology and the story the Wooing of Etain, where a king sets Midir a task of building a road in a bog where none other was.

All hope of some other clue in history was lost when the road succumbed to the bog and sank below the surface probably a decade after it was built. It lay there for two millennia waiting to be discovered.

The Corlea Trackway has an interesting visitor centre, complete with a video experience in an auditorium and lots of info on the country at that time and the building of the trackway. Then we get to see it in all its glory. A whole room is dedicated to the 18 metres stretch of trackway, preserving it in the exact location where it was found. It really gets the mind working as you gaze upon it.

Entry to the Corlea Trackway visitor centre is free.

There’s one more experience to be had here, in the walking trails surrounding. With trails stretching from 3 km to 7 km, there’s a lot of bog to see. Better still the trails are in great condition, so they can be cycled too. It’s an incredibly scenic bogs, with areas of wetlands, and some rather intriguing petrified trees. Wildlife was in abundance too and we spotted common lizards, as well as a huge population of butterflies and dragonflies. The inner macro photographer on me was immensely satisfied.

Ballymahon

A further 9 kilometers along the Greenway is the lively town of Ballymahon. The town has experienced good fortunes of late with the opening of the nearby Centre Parcs, and with it new restaurants and cafes have sprung up. Making it a good stop for the weary cyclist. On the approach from the Greenway there is some noteworthy street art by local artist Phil Atkinson. Ballymahon has some of Ireland’s widest streets which lends to the safety of cycling there.

Ballymahon is famed as the birth home of writer and one of Longford’s favourite sons, Oliver Goldsmith who was born in 1728 in the nearby Pallas (the house no longer exists but a monument to Goldsmith does). It’s found down some narrow country lanes though, so far from safe for cycling. Easier to find is the tribute to him on the banks of the River Inny, including a quote from the Deserted Village, one of his most popular works.

The River Inny is a popular place and hosts Inny kayaking, which we hope to return to do when they reopen after Covid. Also just outside the town is Newcastle Wood, a forest with long trails. Again, this was one walk to far for us on this trip, as was a visit to the forests popular attraction Center Parcs. Another three days in Longford please.

Abbeyshrule

Abbeyshrule is again 9 km from Ballymahon and is another of Longford’s charming village and a former recipient of Ireland’s tidiest village. Flanked on one side by the canal and on the other by River Inny, the village is defined by the bridges around it, and the impressive Whitworth Aqueduct which carries the canal over the Inny, via a five arch bridge. There are lovely walks from the village too, along the banks of the Inny.

However there is more to Abbeyshrule. The ruins of a 13th century Cistercian monastery are found on the village edge and worthy of exploring. For those with an adventurous edge, you can take to the sky at Abbeyshrule Aerodrome, where two flying clubs are based. Amateurs and professionals are welcome.

If you are a little more grounded, then perhaps Fiona Egan’s Cookery School is more to your taste. Using fresh home grown ingredients from the family farm, the cookery school approaches delicious cooking from a fun perspective and welcomes both adults and kids. Unfortunately we didn’t get to better our culinary skills due to Covid limitations.

Abbeyshrule is the last drop off location for bikes from the Midland Cycle Hub, and for those looking to spend the night, the food at the Rustic Inn and welcome at the Abbeyview House B&B are excellent.

Note there is no public transport links from Abbeyshrule, but there is a bus route (number 466, running twice daily) from Ballymahon to Longford.

Center Parcs Longford Forest

I’ve left the biggest perhaps the biggest draw for families the country over to Longford till last. The exclusive resort situated in over 400 acres of woodland can accommodate up to 2500 people 466 self-catering lodges and 30 apartments. The park boasts Ireland’s largest indoor waterpark, and hundreds of outdoor and indoor activities. There are a host of restaurants and cafes too. For those of a more mature mindset, the Aqua Sana Spa offers a range of treatments. Exactly where I would like to find myself after a day on the ziplines and waterpark. 3, 4 or 7 night says ca be booked direct with Center Parcs Longford Forest.

Transport to Longford

Longford is well serviced by both road and public transport links. By road, the N4 and M4 connect it to Dublin and Sligo, the N5 to Knock and Westport, with the N55 and A3 connecting to Belfast. Galway, and the west of Ireland is linked via the M6 and N55 which connects to Ballymahon.

The Dublin- Sligo train from Dublin Connolly station takes around 1 hour and 50 minutes, while bus routes 22 and 23 travel via Longford on their way to Sligo and Ballina respectively.

Ideally to see Longford’s attractions which are scattered throughout the county, a car is our recommended mode of travel.

Where to Stay in County Longford

Viewmount House – The finest hotel in Longford

Built in 1620 this Manor House played an important role in the history of Longford. The Baron of Longford, Lord Francis Xavier made it his home after being awarded his title. The house in its present day Georgian style was redesigned by Thomas Pakenham in the mid 1700s. A man with a good eye. After a few centuries as a school, and as a private home of a gardener and farm, the boutique hotel as we see it now emerged.

Trading for the last 30 years the hotel is the finest in the county. Each unique room is full of antiques and original pieces of art, all collected by the owners over the years. The many sitting rooms and library are akin to a museum. To walk through the hotel doors is as if to walk 100 years back in time. Modern conveniences are provided of course but subtlety.

We stayed in room 26, and were gobsmacked. The rooms take their names from the old families of Longford. The suites are dedicated to the Pakenhams, with ours called the Cuffe Suite. Spread across 2 floors, our suite was amazing. The upper was the bedroom while the lower was a huge spacious sitting room.

We marvelled at the intricate detail of the Victorian changing screen that filled one corner of the bedroom. It’s one of the many ornaments and works of art that decorated the room. But above all the room is comfortable, from the large king size bed to the couches below it. The bathroom features a jacuzzi bath to relax in, and I duly obliged to sink into that.

The gardens surrounding the house transport you into another time too, one where the houses 19th century residents used as a place of relaxation and solace. Statues and sculptures are dotted throughout including a magnificent pair of lions that guard its castellated gate. A rich variety of plants and shrubs fill the flower beds. A personal favourite was the water lilies in the pond.

Viewmount houses appeal extended beyond its furnishings. Breakfast is served in the Georgian dining room. The fantastic menu includes the expectant full Irish, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, and for those looking for something with a pinch of Longford tradition in it, the boxty benedict. Smoked bacon, poached eggs and tomato are served with boxty, a potato pancake that is indigenous to the Irish midlands.

Where Viewmount House really comes into its own is for dinner. Renowned as the best restaurant in Longford, it has also won awards as the best in the province of Leinster. No mean feat considering that includes Dublin. The lunch menu includes sea bass, lamb shoulder and the 48 hour roasted featherblade of beef, which is to die for. Dishes such as monkfish, quail, grilled scallop and pork belly are found on the dinner menu.

It’s worth coming to Longford merely for the experience of dining and staying at Viewmount House. A true hidden gem. Book your stay direct at Viewmount House.

Bramblewick House

Our first night in Longford was spent glamping in the grounds of Bramblewick House. If you are looking for an alternative place to stay in Longford, look no further.  The glamping experience comes in the form of Shepherds Huts, that have a level of comfort that even the most hotel loyal traveller (that’s us) will enjoy. 

Bramblewick House is run by Amy, and as well as the two glamping huts, she runs a handmade craft business from home selling soap, candles, crotchet, wooden boxes and notebooks. It all adds to the authentic atmosphere and Amy is a delight, welcoming us into her home to see her crafts. At the moment they are adding a craft workshop to allow her to expand the business.  

Originally from the UK, she moved to the area 5 years ago and started to pursue her dream. Speaking of the area, the house is found up a narrow lane near the town of Drumlish. It’s quite the peaceful setting. 

The two huts have different themes, with ours called the chicken hut. Chickens are a constant theme throughout, and the place is full of little touches all making it warm and cosy. From the outside they seem small, but is instead Tardis like. A double bed, kitchen, and full bathroom all fit together in a perfect layout inside. Hot water and cooking is provided by gas. 

There’s more! Each hut has its owned seated area, and the gardens have a BBQ area to enjoy a few beers around. The gardens are worthy of exploring and contain some whimsical statues. Though it’s best not to stray to the bees at the end. 

You’ll have to bring your own food as with all glamping, but there’s a large supermarket in the nearby Drumlish. Alternatively, Longford is only ten minutes drive away so you can always grab an Indian from Spice India like we did. Then relax the night away in perfect rural surroundings. Book your stay at Bramblewick House here. 

AbbeyView House

The last stop of the Longford section of the Royal Canal Greenway is Abbeyshrule, and there is truly nowhere better to stay than Abbeyview House. There is a real genuine and warm welcome from Susan and her family who live in at this beautiful B&B. 

The house itself was built in 1830 or thereabouts and is possibly the combination of two different houses. It’s history traces back to a mill owner who converted it into the large building it is now. After passing through various hands it served as a police barracks for 50 years. The owners bought it 7 years ago and converted into B&B in 2019. 

It has a real feel of an authentic country house of the time. High ceilings, fireplaces, art, and grandfather clocks add to that air. Our room was up two flights of stairs, and was once the bedroom of the master of the house. The large room was adjoined by his changing room, where servants would change and wash him. 

Great care has been taken to keep the room as it might have been, with panelled walls, art, and floral tiles. Of course the modern conveniences such as showers have been added. A freestanding bath is the centerpiece of the room though. For anyone who has spent a long day on the Greenway, this is Mecca. No better way to soak those tired limbs. 

Of course a B&B is only as good as the second B there, and Abbeyview House serves up an excellent one. The spread on the table is classical, with fine porcelain and good variety. We settled for the full Irish, and the huge breakfast set us right up for a day of travelling. 

Abbeyview house have plans to add glamping to their services over the next year, as numbers on the Greenway are steadily increasing.  

Where to Eat and Drink in County Longford

Resturants

Vocellas 

Vocellas represents a good option in Longford for those looking for a more European cuisine. Located on Main street, their menu is mainly Mediterranean with distinct Italian and Spanish influences. They provide both indoor and outdoor dining at the moment. Service was very pleasant and the food was delicious in particular the calamari starter. Items such as Bolognese, carbonara, and penne all’arrabbiata are complemented by burgers and steaks.

Viewmount House

I’ve already sold the merits of dining in Viewmount House, in that it is undoubtedly the finest restaurant in the county. An experience worth having. See more in the Viewmount House section above.

Spice India 

Spice India, found on Ballymahon Street Longford, is part of a chain with branches across the midlands. Spice India has won the best World Cuisine award for Leinster on in 2 of the last 4 years. Of the two restaurants Spice India is more traditional with only a few Thai dishes straying into the menu. We only tried the Korma, which was creamy and full of flavour. I’ll be back.

Bars and Bar Food

Valentines 

Valentines on Main Street is, and has been the centre of nightlife in Longford for several decades now. They don’t serve food, instead focus on their liquid output. It’s the perfect place to try one of the craft beers from the local St Mels Brewery.

The Rustic Inn 

The village of Abbeyshrule is dominated by The Rustic Inn, a fine gastro pub. With a roaring hearth to warm you in winter, and lots of outdoor seating it’s equipped for all seasons. The food is hearty too as one would expect. Irish and European is the theme, so BBQ chicken wings, deep fried brie, salmon, plaice and several steaks are featured. The steaks featured on our plates too. The Irish Hereford fillet was huge cooked perfect, and was extraordinarily good value. Unfortunately it left no space for dessert.

Cafes and Bakeries

The Wooden Spoon 

This colourful café sits in the heart of Lanesborough and beckoned us in after our boat trip. They offer a menu that is extraordinary value for money, but with huge portions and packing plenty of taste. Trust me, we didn’t complain. The burgers came fully loaded with chips, salad and onion rings on the plate. Irish and European staples again fill the menu, proving they are very popular with the locals here.

O’Hehirs Bakery and Café 

A great stop for those who like their lunches fast and baked like I do. The bakery sells a good selection of baked goods, while the café has sandwiches, sausage rolls and other warm tasties. Don’t leave town without picking up one of their Apple pies, they are as good as any I’ve ever tasted.  

Red Rose Cafe 

With over 20 years presence on Longford’s Dublin Street, the Red Rose Café has consistently been serving traditional and comforting food to the town. The interior is warm and snug and bright art greets you at the entrance. The menu won’t surprise with offerings such as all day breakfast, turkey and ham, salmon and burgers, but sometimes that’s just what you need. A firm favourite of my mum and dad. Excellent value too.

30 Flavours of Portugal. 

A recent opening in town, this bakery is found next to Aldi, so if your picking up provisions it’s definitely worth nipping into. The baked goods are baked by a Portuguese native, so you can guarantee the pastel de natas are done the right way. They are delicious and cheap as chips too.

From cultural and historical experiences, good dining, to a whole host of outdoor walking and cycling routes, there is no shortage of things to enjoy in Longford. It is certainly a county where tourism is on the rise.

Planning a trip to Longford? Save a pin for future reference.

Perhaps it was a lot to ask of Thessaloniki to follow up Meteora and the Vikos Aoos National Park. I’d had an astounding three days exploring those areas in Northern Greece. Meteora is one of the most exceptional places in Europe, and the little-known national park is well up there too. After my initial disappointment at the city and a little internal to-and-fro, I made an old-fashioned church and street art hunt my purpose while in Thessaloniki. Of course, the title says disappointment and redemption. So before we get to the good, I have to tell the story of why the city got me down.

Driving was a headache

As I rolled into the city, I took an instant dislike. It seemed dirty, loud, and rundown. I was immediately delighted I’d only decided to spend one day there. What a blessing that was. I had at random picked a car park near the white tower to use, but when I tried to enter it I was chastised by a woman. An SUV came up the ramp towards me. Clearly, it was the exit, and I was another one of those tourists who had no idea where I was going. The bane of locals going about their everyday lives.

I circled the block searching for the actual entrance. Only to come to the conclusion that I actually had been right in the first place. So why then did I face the wrath of a local? Why also was an SUV on the entrance ramp? Confused and a little scared, I set off and found another car park, where valet parking and daylight robbery were practiced.

Worse was to follow. While it would have been easier to leave the car in the car park (or better still abandon it), I had to get it back to my hotel, the Mandrino Hotel, and the promise of free parking. It was only a matter of minutes away according to Google Maps. How hard could it be? Well…

First of all, let’s throw some road works into the mix. Even google maps couldn’t get its head around them and try as I might I couldn’t find a way to get towards the hotel. Then there were the one-way streets! Of course, I ended driving the wrong way up some of them, to the chagrin of other drivers. Should I mention the roundabouts? I’ve driven through roundabouts all over Europe and they all follow the same rules. Get on the roundabout, circle around, take your exit, easy as pie. Not here! I faced wrath for not moving around the roundabout quick enough. Then I was abused for not letting someone on in front of me. Head scratching!!

Eventually, I managed to reach my hotel, a full 40 minutes later than expected, and let out a sigh of relief as I left the car behind for the day.

So now that we have established that public transport is a good idea in Thessaloniki, lets move on.

The Roman Agora was a backache

While I can’t really point the finger of blame at Thessaloniki for this one, the Roman Agora left me with a huge backache. But it did leave a bitter taste in my mouth. On my second day in the city grey clouds replaced the sunny skies I had seen for my holiday so far, and the weather was a little more of what I am familiar with. Of course, rain means one thing, doesn’t it. Things are usually a little more slippy.

I had wandered around in the morning, waiting for the Agora to open, and left it as my last thing to do. It’s a huge site, built in the 2nd century, and its excavation has seen the amphitheater and corridors restored. Underground there’s a decent museum with a good deal of artifacts excavated from the site.

Mostly in ruins, the different levels are connected by metal ramps, which don’t take kindly to inclement weather. The staff though are vigilant and try to cordon them off. So only a person holding an umbrella and using their phone while walking could be stupid enough to walk down them.

Step up me!

After a few minutes of writhing in agony, I realised no one was coming to help me, and pulled myself to my feet. Perhaps unwisely, I continued touring the Agora. The walk back to the hotel was rough. Getting to the airport with my luggage was even worse. The flight home was complete torture. That little “stunt” earned me a week off work. If only I had held onto my stick from Meteora…

When attractions aren’t so attractive

My first port of call was the White Tower. It’s Thessaloniki’s big attraction overlooking the bay. Impressive architecture on the exterior, its winding stairs led to five floors of archaeological museum exhibits. But ultimately all it is is a tower. I’m a big fan of a good museum, but a bad museum, I’d rather give a wide pass to. It didn’t take many floors of that big windy circular staired tower to realise, that the stairs held more interest than the exhibits. The roof had excellent views but I left with a certain sense of disappointment. Maybe they could try a lean; it worked for Pisa.

As I walked the centre an anticlimactic feeling overcame me. If the city’s big attraction wasn’t all it was copped to be the what hope was there? It was at this point I took a step back and focused on the churches and street art. Turns out they are an even better attractions than the Agora or the Tower. Here’s the best of them.

Thessaloniki Churches

The Rotunda

Let’s start with the best, and the oldest. Built by Roman emperor Galerius in the 4th century as a temple, the church has survived 1700 years. It reminded me of the Pantheon in Rome, with a huge dome that its 30 metres high at its central point. The walls are 6 metres thick, which has made the Rotunda earthquake proof. After the fall of the Roman empire it was converted to a church, and that is when its extraordinary mosaics were added. It’s incredible how long they have adorned the ceiling of this structure.

During the Ottoman occupation of the 14th century it served as a mosque also, and a minaret attests to this. To this day, it still functions as a church on certain occasions. Incredible. The Rotunda is the recipient of a UNESCO World Heritage Site award. Thessaloniki was looking up.

Agios Georgiou Church

This little church is right beside the Rotunda. It’s an Eastern Orthodox church, and has a pretty entrance and little bell tower. In fact its so small that’s all I could learn about it. Moving on…

Holy Church of Panagia Dexia

Visitors to this 20th century Byzantine church on Dikastirion Square will be treated to a remarkable interior. It’s what you expect of a Byzantine church in this part of the world, with murals in excellent condition. It’s well lit too, so suits photographers, as this can often be a issue in the more darkly lit older churches.

Church of the Transfiguration of the saviour

 This tiny little church is one of 15 Paleo-christian and Byzantine churches in the city of Thessaloniki that are considered UNESCO World Heritage Sites. You’ll find the Church of the Savior on Egnatia Street, unusually surrounded by modern buildings. But it doesn’t take away from it. The church and its interior wall paintings are dated to the 14th century, but an earthquake in 1988, brought to light some new discoveries to suggest it might be older. It is suspected that it was part of a larger monastery structure, and may have been a funerary monument. It survived the Ottoman invasion without any changes, as it was considered too small to change.

Church of St Demetrius

The Church of St Demetrios is dedicated to the patron saint of Thessaloniki. It is also part of the Palaeochristian and Byzantine Monuments of Thessaloniki. The church marks the place where Saint Demetrius was martyred in the 4th century, in the crypts below. This was once a Roman bath, and it is still accessible to this day. While the church was famous for mosaics, these were significantly destroyed in a fire of 1917. A few have survived as has the iconostasis. Still intact though is the unusual ciborium (new word for the day), a hexagonal domed structure that is found to the side of the nave. It symbolically commemorates the saint. Inside is a bed. I’ll be honest I thought it was a tomb. Need to work on my Greek.

Church of Panagia Chalkeon

Falling into the bracket of the 11th century Thessaloniki Churches is the Church of Panagia Chalkeon. This one is famed too for the frescos that got away. Most have fallen down, with only a few still standing the test of time. It’s history follows the same timeline of others too Church-Mosque-Earthquake-Rebuilt.

Hagia Sophia Cathedral

A church has stood on the site of the Hagia Sophia (otherwise known as Agia Sophia) since the third century, but the one seen today dates to the 8th. It was modeled on the Hagia Sophia church in Instanbul. Naturally it went through the same transformations as the other Thessalonki churches in the city, as it bounced from church, to mosque, and back again.

The interior decoration is more muted than in others locally, with many of its gold mosaics plastered over following the fire, and then earthquake. Doesn’t mean its not worth a visit though, and its dome mosaic is one of the few surviving from earlier times. It depicts the ascension, surrounded by the holy apostles, the virgin Mary and Angels.

This is by no means an exhaustive list of Thessaloniki churches, and as the Palaeochristian and Byzantine Monuments of Thessaloniki comprises 15 different sites, doing it all in a 24 hour visit would be exhausting. Regrettably I didn’t get to see the Vlatadon Monastery in the Ano Poli in upper town, a large complex known for its brilliant mosaics. I was too busy “falling” for Thessaloniki. While I did get to Agios Nikolaos Orphanos (pictured below), I didn’t get there within its limited opening hours. With time it’s worth seeking out the 5th century Church of the Acheiropoietos, the Saint Gregory Palamas church, and the Church of Agioi Apostoloi.

While it’s not a church, this boat that offers tours is worth a mention. A thing of beauty. It’s one of a number of excellent tours and excusions from Thessaloniki, which can be booked through Get Your Guide below. They are one of our corporate partners, and using the link will earn me a small commission, at no extra cost to you.

The Best Ancient street art

The Roman emperor Galerius commissioned an arch to be built in his honour, and his victory in a battle in the late 3rd century. Not vain at all. It linked directly to the Rotunda at this time. The Arch of Galerius is a magnificent structure, 12.5 metres high and featured 8 pillars. Marble was used for the relief on the pillars, and the scenes depict the victory of the Romans over the Persians. It’s quite something.

Thessaloniki Street art City

A quick on the ground Google search brought up a map of the local street art. If that map still exists I can’t find it. Whether the art below still exists is another question, street art is a constantly evolving feature of modern cities. What isn’t in doubt is that the street art of Thessaloniki is excellent. Huge murals cover the sides of many buildings, while some streets seem to be the hub for local artists. I’m not going to profess to being an expert on the local art scene, I personally didn’t understand much, but appreciated it nonetheless. For those interested in walking in my footsteps I have included the street location in the description on each of the murals. For those who prefer to be led to their street art there is a local company providing street art tours. I can’t vouch for them, but I’m happy to recommend. This is the best of the street art I myself uncovered on my 24 hours in Thessaloniki.

Where to stay in Thessaloniki

After hunting Thessaloniki churches and street art all day, you need a good bed to rest that head. I stayed at the Mandrino Hotel, a solid budget option perfect for an overnighter. The city isn’t short on options, and is relatively cheap compared to the more touristic parts of Greece.

In the end, Thessaloniki may have won me over. It isn’t a city I’ll be charging back to, but I still consider myself richer for having visited. Would you consider visiting Greece’s other metropolis?

But before I begin, a little history on Guinness.

Guest post by Lannie from Lannie’s Food & Travel Blog.

History of Guinness

On 31 December 1759, Arthur Guinness signed a lease in the St. James Gate area of Dublin.  The terms of the lease for the 4-acre property were a rent payment of 45£ a year, for 9,000 years.  That’s right – I typed that right.  Nine thousand years.  Since then, Guinness bought out the property, so the mind boggling 9,000-year lease is no longer applicable.  But still.  I’m personally curious whether Arthur Guinness himself insisted on such a lengthy term, or whether that’s what was offered to him!

Either way, such was the resolve to turn Guinness into a household name, which has, so far, lasted 250+ years.  250 down, 8,750 years to go!  Just kidding.

The Guinness Storehouse (current visitor center and tour facility) was originally the brewery’s fermentation plant, operating between 1902 – 1988.  The barley’s fermentation now takes place elsewhere in Ireland.  So no.  You’re not visiting a fermentation plant in the St. James location.

I know, I know.  An old fermentation plant doesn’t sound like the ideal visitor experience.  In 1997, it underwent a serious renovation, and now comprises of 7 floors of dark, bubbly excitement in the shape of your favorite Guinness pint. 

Learning how to make Beer on Guinness Factory Tour

Most breweries I’ve visited in the past are attached to a trendy restaurant.  And while they do brew beer there, I can say that the Guinness Storehouse is the first and only brewery I’ve ever been to where I learned about the production process. 

The ground floor is devoted to the four ingredients in the black stuff and the brewing process.

1. Water – from Poulaphouca Lake in County Wicklow, south of Dublin.  Some say that the reason Guinness in Ireland tastes the best, is because of their water source. 

• Barley – the grain, which is the foundation of the beer. Guinness’s barley comes from farmers who’ve supplied the barley for the last three generations.  The barley is roasted at 232 degrees Celsius, which gives the Guinness its dark color;

• Hops – the flowers of the Humulus lupulus plant – helps kept the beer fresh, and contributes to the beer’s flavour and aroma;

“I love that stuff. Been drinking it for years. I heard they recently decided to add more hops to it.”

  -McLovin, from SuperBad

• Yeast – the key component to convert sugars into alcohol during the fermentation stage.  Rumor has it that the yeast that they use in the Guinness brewery today is descended from the yeast that Arthur Guinness used himself.  (How does that work?)  Some yeast from each brew is transferred to the next brew.  The yeast is the most valuable part of Guinness’s famous brew, there is a reserve supply in the Director’s Safe.

Now, you know all about Guinness’s brewing process.  That’s just the brewing exhibit of the Guinness factory tour.  They’re still so much more!

The Funnest Part of the Guinness Storehouse Beer Tour in Dublin

Maybe you recognize some of the cheeky Guinness ads that frequent your favorite bar and pub.  There is an entire section devoted to the fun advertising campaigns.  Loved seeing the ads come to live in 3D.  Some of my favorites included the ostrich, the cycling fish, and the whistling oyster. 

One of the great things about art is… you really don’t need an explanation for it.  But if one were to explain the whistling oyster, to take from the sign placard:

“Presumably the oyster was whistling for a Guinness.  For Guinness and oysters are inseparable.  Epicures say that there is nothing like Guinness to bring out the subtle charm of oysters.  In fact, Guinness is as good for oysters as it is good for you.”

And there you have it.  Guinness is good for you. 

Enjoying your Guinness at Guinness

I’m glossing over a few more parts of the exhibit, but you wouldn’t want this blog to show you everything, would you? 

But following all that fun at your own pace with hops, barley and whistling oysters, you’ll arrive at the Gravity Bar.  A perfect place to enjoy the views of Dublin and take a peak over the extensive brewery grounds at St James’s Gate. Oh right, and to drink your own Guinness draft. 

“Sláinte!”

Fun Facts from the Guinness Beer Tour in Dublin

1. Every day at 10 am, expert taste testers check every singl brew of Guinness for quality and consistency.  It’s a tough job, but someone’s gotta do it!
2. Guinness is the first brewer to add Nitrogen into beer, which Guinness has included since 1959!
3. The Nitrogen creates the 30 million bubbles in each pint of beer! 
4. And is responsible for the iconic, creamy white head everyone loves!

Parting Thoughts on my visit to the Guinness Storehouse

I think you all know how much I enjoyed this brewery tour.  Beer is not something I know much about, though I do enjoy it.  I loved all of the nuances (heritage yeast, 30 million bubbles, water from the Wicklow Mountains) that make Guinness so special. 

For Guinness fans, beer enthusiasts, or even if you’re just looking for a fun activity, the Guinness Factory Tour in Dublin City is enjoyable for all!

Information about the Guinness Factory Beer Tours in Dublin

Tickets:

There are three different packages for Guinness Storehouse tickets, as of 17 April 2021:

1. Welcome Back – 15 Euros, which includes the entry, 1 pint of Guinness Draught at the 7^th floor Gravity Bar, and (optional) a reservation at Food on Five, the 5^th floor restaurant
2. Upgraded – 24 Euros, all of the above, plus a special pint from the Stoutie.  This special pint includes your photo on the creamy head of your pint!
3. Ambassador – 30 Euros, all of the above, plus a guided tour with a host.

Currently, the Guinness Storehouse is closed due to COVID-19.  Tickets can be booked through their online system from 6 May 2021 onward.  Check the Guinness Storehouse website for latest information.

Location

St. James’s Gate,
Dublin 8, D08 VF8H,
Ireland

Information about the writer- Lannie’s Food & Travel

Lannie is a food and travel blogger based on the Isle of Islay in Scotland.  She is the co-host of #TravelBlogTuesday with CarpeDiemEire, a weekly Twitter chat for travel bloggers.  Lannie loves exploring a place through its food and drinks. 

What else to do in Dublin

Guinness is definitely the quintessential Irish experience. But Guinness aren’t finished with you yet. Next door is the Open Gate Brewery, owned by the same group, Diageo, is an experimental wing of the company. Here you’ll get to see brewers make their own small batch brews, and of course, most importantly, try them. If beer isn’t your thing the Roe and Co distillery is right across the road, and tours are available of this emerging Irish whiskey. More whiskey tours are available in the city at Teelings in Newmarket and of course Jameson in Smithfield.

Besides Guinness the other tour really worth taking in the city is the Trinity College Student Tour. With the students of the college acting as a tour guide, you are in for a knowledgeable and humorous experience. Best of all at the end you’ll see the legendary Book of Kells, and the Jedi Library (known more commonly here as the Long Room)

Dublin is the perfect city for your own walking tour, and armed with this article on the best walks in Dublin, you’ll see the best the city has to offer.

Final thoughts from CarpeDiemEire

Having run #TravelBlogTuesday every week with Lannie, it’s been a pleasure getting to know her and her blogging work. For those who don’t know what #TravelBlogTuesday is; it is a weekly chat on Twitter encouraging travel writers to share their new articles, and support each other. All are welcome. Lannie’s blogs are a highlight of the weekly chat, especially those on her new home of Islay in Scotland.

If you are wondering why Lannie took up island living, think whisky, castles, beaches and the wild west coast of Scotland. I know I’m convinced to Visit Islay. Personally I’ll also be packing my thermals to copy Lannie and see some of those Puffins in Scotland, my personal favourite article on her site.

Looking for a hotel or activity in Dublin?

Dublin has a broad selection of accommodation catering for all budgets. many of its city center hotels are 4 or 5 stars, and the standards are high. The Dublin 2 area has the highest rates, followed by Dublin 1. For a more economical option, the hotels in the affluent Dublin 4 and 6 areas offer good quality at a lower rate, with excellent transport links to the city.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links such as the Booking.com hotels booker below, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Why spend Easter in Hungary in Holloko?

So what makes Holloko Hungary so special? It boils down to the place, its culture, and people, and in particular the efforts they make to keep their traditions alive in the old village. Is it possible they do only to keep the stream of tourists coming and the local economy booming? Very much so. If so is it even relevant? Not at all. It’s great to see a town seemingly untouched by time. And no better time than at Easter, when timeless Easter practices are observed.

Everyone flocks here to see the “sprinkling”, more on which I will divulge later. But it’s not just this Easter tradition that is kept. The town and it’s houses are maintained in an old fashion, all white washed with either flowers or ornaments hanging from the roofs. The streets are all pedestrianized adding to that pleasant feel. Each street is a pleasure to walk around and explore.

Easter in Hungary is Holloko.

Easter and me

I’ve never really gotten Easter. Perhaps that sounds a little unusual but I don’t think we in Ireland as I grew up ever did. I mean we understood the religious significance of it. We abstained from meat on Good Friday, and were subsequently rewarded with Spring Lamb for Sunday lunch on Easter Sunday. We swapped Easter eggs, which was always wonderful if chocolate was given up for lent.

But even then we were allowed a day off on St Patrick’s Day to indulge our vices. Don’t remember a day when a carnival rolled through the desert during those 40 days of abstinence from the bible. But growing up I always wondered what the bunnies and eggs was all about. No mention of that either in the bible. To me the Easter Bunny was always ridiculous, even as a young child.

As I grew older, I discovered the links to Eostre, the pagan goddess of fertility who originally was celebrated on these days. Rabbits and eggs are linked to her also. So with time I grew more disenchanted with the notions of Easter, especially as religion faded from my life. What was Easter really all about?

Then travelling introduced me to other traditions of Easter. Suddenly I saw how Easter could and probably should be observed. The quest to discover such traditions was in fact one of my motivations on this trip to Hungary. That quest now took me to Holloko, the best place to observe Easter in Hungary.

Our Easter in Holloko Hungary

We had stayed the night before in Hatvan, a pleasing town, even if it took me by surprise to realise that. More on that and one of my Hungarian road trips in my Hatvan blog. We rose early to breakfast in the SOS Motel where we had stayed, and then made the thirty minute drive to the town of Holloko in Nógrád County of North Hungary. If looking to book to stay in Holloko at Easter, you would need to book extremely early, and furthermore options are quite limited. The Castellum Hotel is rated as best in town. Holloko is certainly more of a day trip destination.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Budapest to Holloko Hungary

Holloko is not the easiest place to reach, and it is in fact best to travel here by car. It’s around an hour twenty minutes driving from the city of Budapest, but if buses are your thing, then it can take well over two hours and some bus changes. Not ideal. Check the bus service times here.

However if you do have your own wheels it’s a pleasant drive, rapeseed fields are quite common in the lower lands, and brilliantly illuminate the landscape of the during the springtime. Holloko is located deep in the natural environment of the Cserhat Mountains and soon the landscape turned rolling, and vistas looked across wooded lands. Holloko translates to raven stone, and when you finally see the carved wooden raven that lies on the towns edge, you know that it’s close.

Now comes the warning. As Holloko is the best place to celebrate and spend Easter in the country, then you can rest assured you aren’t the only one going there. On any given day over the holiday thousands of people descend on the destination. We were directed from here to one of many fields surrounding the town, that today would serve as car parks, and would approach on foot. Being Easter the celebrations also don’t come for free and entry costs 4000 HUF per person, which is around €11 or $12. Check ahead at the Holloko village website for the program.

History of Holloko

Holloko village dates back to the 13th century, and it’s at this time first mention was made of its castle. The castle was built in response to the Mongol invasion. The village was captured by the Ottomans in the 16th century, and it was only at the end of the Ottoman era in 1683, did the present village spring up. The houses we see today were first built then, but their wooden nature meant that many had to rebuilt due to fires. The last major fires took place in the 20th century. The current population of the village is 387 people.

Holloko finds its way onto the heritage list as a living example of a rural village before the 20th century. It now contains 55 buildings which are all maintained as they were prior to the industrial revolution.

Traditional Dress of Hungary

But those streets and that history aren’t what brings Holloko to life. That accolade belongs to the townsfolk. What a glittering bunch they are. All play their part dressing up, from the animal-coat cloak-draped Gulyas (the cow herdsmen from which the popular dish goulash gets its name), to the regular folk of the town. The gents look great, waist coated and booted, but it’s very much the ladies that steal the thunder.

Their colourful and exuberant layered dresses contrast vividly against the black and white of the towns houses. These beautiful dresses actually consist of about seven layers to give them their lifted effect, and are said to cost in the region of around €1000. Suddenly you can see where your admission fee goes. Everyone throughout the whole village dresses up and takes part, making it just that little more special.

Easter Festival at Holloko Hungary

The entry allows you access to all the activities and a full-time table of events spans the day. When we arrived mass was already underway at the St Michael’s Church in the towns heart. The church is tiny so the mass takes place outside. The mass is followed by a procession through the town, which was our first interaction with many of the colorfully clad country folk.

Following the mass at 1130, the crowds descend from all angles of the town and converge outside the church for what most have come to see, the tradition of sprinkling. See my section on that below.

Throughout the day there is much more entertainment, much of which takes place at the bandstand near the entrance to the town. Here dance and singing troupes will introduce the traditional dances such as czardas, as well as songs local to the area.

To experience this in a more personal setting the well near the end of the town is throughout the day the location of more song and dance. It’s also a good place to see the sprinkling in action.

The Sprinkling at Holloko

Besides sounding like a horror movie title and looking not unlike a sadistic ritual, the sprinkling is anything but. It’s a time-honoured Hungarian Easter tradition. Finding its root in pagan times, the process of throwing a bucket of water over a young maiden was to ensure her fertility, the water ensuring she won’t wilt. With time the tradition has changed and cheap perfume is now sprinkled on the heads of maidens of all ages come Easter in Hungary. This is observed throughout every village in the country.

It is expected that the man in return will receive painted eggs, a cake, or a shot of palinka (a local fruit brandy, and strong stuff). Looks like the ladies come out worse come Easter Sunday and Easter Monday. However some still prefer the ancient ways, and it can be taken a little further by hiring the local fire service to show a man’s affections for a certain lady. Not a good time for a cat to get stuck up a tree.

But back to Holloko. Sprinkling is done with buckets and no one is too safe. It’s the highlight of the day and everyone descends on the church and well at the allotted time to see the action. It is important to be at the symbol below to get the best view. There are two of these in the village (at the church and the well), so scope them out when you arrive.

Top Tip- Go to the Well

It’s somewhat quieter at the well side, and we personally got lost in the crowd at the church and didn’t see much. We then moved ahead of the crowd to the well and here we got a perfect front row viewpoint. Personally I didn’t understand much, the guys chanted an Easter poem, the girls screamed and ran, and one unlucky one was caught. She was then held by each arm, by a guy on either side. This was the bit that was semi ritual and I felt I was in the world of the Wicker Man. She was then drenched by a few buckets of water. It’s all done in good spirits though, but beware, as once this is done, any girls around the village are fair game to get sprinkled and the same guys walk the streets looking for maidens.

Easter Entertainment at Holloko

Besides the sprinkling there is plenty of other entertainment around. The bandstand right at the entrance to the town is the spot to see those traditional Hungarian dances and song. The traditional dance is very unique, my favourite certainly being the tap dance performed by the men where not only the feet tap, but the hands are used to tap feet and knees, in a show of skill. We were even treated to a dance off.

The ladies have their own routines and one song was particularly entrancing. Performed at the well area it was one of the highlights of my visit.

There are innumerable activities going on through the day such as egg painting, pottery, learning whip skills with the gulyas, and many others. Egg painting has major significance in Hungary, the eggs being a symbol of eternal life and the red colours the boiled eggs are painted in are symbolic of the blood of Christ. Alas the number of children in the queues forced me to restrain myself from trying it.

Things to do in Holloko

Easter somewhat curtails the ability to take part in the regular activities of the village, owing to the sheer crowds. But that is of course counteracted by all the extra seasonal fare.

Of course walking the village streets itself is a worthwhile sight. The queues to the heritage sites such as the village museum, doll museum, and the post museums were daunting all day, so we missed out. The old schoolhouse was only large enough to hold about eight students, and the classroom recreates one of the 19th century.

Nina, my daughters favourite place in Holloko was the playground attached to the toy store, Paloc Jatszahaz. All the toys were wooden including the hand wound carousel, and the games included ring toss, horseshoe toss, and a whole host of other non mechanical things. It was quite enchanting to see how kids played in bygone times, before multiplayer was invented.

For a more adult form of playing, check out the wine cellar, showcasing local products from the region.

St Martin Catholic Church

St Martin’s Church is the lower towns biggest landmark. And yet it’s tiny. It’s black steeple and roof set well against the white stone walls, but stepping inside makes you realise that there is hardly space for twenty people. I guess this is why they hold the mass outside. There is a rather intriguing crucifix at the churches entrance though. The church was built in 1889.

Holloko Castle

In the hills above Holloko the castle ruins are the perfect excursion from the village. It’s a steep hike up if not a long one, with the steps near the town well taking you up in fifteen minutes. The castle again was the centre of much spectacle, this time more medieval in tone. The archery and the sword fighting was to be expected, but the huge guy making arrowheads the traditional way with fire, thongs, and a big hammer was fascinating. The guy as well wouldn’t have looked out-of-place in a blacksmiths around 500 years ago, or a Game of Thrones set.

The castle itself is semi-intact, and is accessed by stairs to get past the outer walls. The good thing about this is of course the views of the surrounding countryside which get ever better as you climb higher into the castle. The castle can be visited without seeing the village for 900 HUF, but why would you want to do that. If you do visit during Easter expect huge crowds again at the castle, where the stairs have constant queues up and down, and the central tower took twenty minutes to access. The best thing throughout is the views of the wooded countryside and the village below.

Holloko Castle Exhibits

The castle interior does have some worthwhile exhibits such as the weapon room, the chapel and displays on old furniture. One of the biggest queues I found (and joined out of curiosity) turned out to be to one to look down the garderobe. Look out down below! The best room in the castle featured waxwork figures of 13th century inhabitants of the castle, all dressed in attire from the period.

Dining in Holloko

With all that exertion up and down hills and through the village, you are bound to build up a hunger.

Holloko doesn’t have too many restaurants but Miksrath and Muskati Vendeglo are very highly rated. However with thousands of other hungry people storming about the place, you will be doing well to get a seat. But fear not as other options galore come with the Easter festival. Stalls are open throughout selling much fare and especially baked goods. Street food is often my favourite anyway, so I was probably happier. Hot dogs (not too local I know) were great alongside the local flat bread called Langallo, served fresh from a clay oven.

Those with a sweet tooth (yes me) are well served too by the bakery, with Retes, a Hungarian variant on strudel, stuffed with jam or cottage cheese and Csoroge, long deep-fried parcels of dough, guaranteeing you will give up on that diet for the day. Not that I would ever diet on holidays though.

Conclusion on Holloko Hungary for Easter

Holloko is the ideal place to spend Easter in Hungary, with local traditions and food being a big draw. It’s a beautiful village set high in the Hungarian mountains, and an ideal day trip from Budapest.

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Where Else to Visit in Hungary

I already wrote about Sintra, and the three year anniversary of that blog is now approaching. It was an earnest early day effort but the years have allowed for some introspection. So much of what I did that day in April in Portugal were downright wrong. Maybe going to western Portugal in April in the first place was a wrong move. But we are not here to discuss the weather. Let’s discuss what you can do right on your Sintra day trip.

This rehashed blog has been inspired by Linda over at Meandering My Way who had a similar less than satisfying day visiting Sintra. Interestingly we didn’t even make the same mistakes. Linda’s take on visiting Sintra is certainly worth a read.

My Introduction to Sintra

Our final day in Lisbon, we endeavored to leave the city behind, and visit the Sintra Hills. It was the summer retreat for the kings of Lisbon for many centuries and the many palaces and mansions attest to that. This was one of those road trips that show how organic travelling can be. We had intended to visit the palaces of Pena and Sintra, along with Praia de Adraga beach but the day took a turn for the unexpected.

Ah even in the introduction to my Sintra Itinerary the problems began to surface.

How to get from Lisbon to Sintra

We rented a car for the day booking on rentalcars.com my favoured site. The pick up location was near Parque Eduardo VII in Lisbon, about 10 minutes walk from our hotel. I always book everything in advance; full insurance, car seats, so when I get to the counter all that remains is to sign it over and check the car. I had pre-booked a Volkswagen Polo, for which the insurance cost more than the car, so we were pleasantly surprised to get a Fiat 500 convertible. Using my iPhones google maps off we set to Sintra, which is about 25km northwest of Lisbon.

Take the Train

Right, so from the off I even got this wrong. I’m always an advocate of road trips. Always believe its the best way to see a place. Except in the case of Sintra. A car is not the best way to see Sintra. Just off Lisbon’s Rossio Square is Rossio Station that services Sintra. The station itself is an architectural marvel built in 1887 in the neo-Manueline style popularised in 16th century Portugal. The look of the station alone is enough to tell you that are on the right track. The Lisbon Rossio-Sintra train route takes 40 minutes to reach its destination.

While we are on the subject of getting there it must be noted that we probably took our time over breakfast before ambling over to the car rental agency. Then all the paperwork had to be signed etc etc etc. Big mistake. Sintra isn’t a get on the road at 10 am destination. It’s a get there as early as you can one, and make your full day count. Trains start running at 5:41 from Lisbon and go every 30 minutes from then on (though I’m not saying to catch that early one though unless you plan on being there for sunrise). Incidentally a ticket costs €4.50 return to Sintra, significantly less than renting a car.

The Best Of Sintra in One Day

Sintra National Palace

We arrived in Sintra around midday and first impressions were it certainly lived up to expectations. Second impression was that it is difficult to find a parking space. We did eventually after doubling back on Volta Duche. From here we had caught our first glances of the handsome town of Sintra, dominated by the unusual Sintra National Palace with its iconic conical chimneys. The palace and the whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Palace was mostly constructed in the 15th century by King John 1 and added to in the preceding centuries. It served as a country escape for the royals from Lisbon. It now functions as a museum.

Immediately the biggest issue with driving surfaces. There is a severe lack of parking within Sintra. Bear in mind that this was only April. The problem is further exacerbated in summer as the number of tourists increases. Traffic jams are a frequent problem in the town. As it were this was as close as we would get to the town. There is a good argument to skip the Sintra National Palace, so you don’t suffer palace fatigue by the end of the day. If you do wish to tick them all off it opens at 9:30 am and entry is €10. Visits on average should take around 45 minutes.

Sintra National Palace from a distance

Sintra Train Station and Town hall

We walked back to the gothic and gorgeous Camara Municipal. It’s the town hall of Sintra, constructed in the early 20th century, and Neo-Manueline in style. The town hall has a wonderful clock tower flanked by smaller spires. Decorated with false battlements and bright colours it is beautiful to behold. This was as close as we got to exploring the town as it turned out.

One could argue that I got this right. But if you take the train the route to the town passes right by it. I also neglected to go as far as Sintra train station, an attraction in its own right, with a colour scheme akin to the Mezquita in Cordoba. From the station its only 600 metres into the town. By all good accounts stopping at Queijadas da Sapa for their cheese cakes will perk you up. I didn’t. Pick up some bonus sightseeing points at the 12th century Igreja de São Martinho, before making your way to one of the palaces.

Venturing out into the Sintra Hills

We next drove up to the Palace of Pena, where the car that took us to Sintra proved to be a liability. Try as we might, we could not find parking. We eventually abandoned the plan and backtracked. We had intended to visit Praia de Adraga and return to the Palace of Pena after but while passing Quinta de Regaleira we were enticed inside.

Sintra’s countryside surroundings are a vast area of hills networked by hiking trails, and zig zag roads leading to palaces. Those narrow roads do not lend well to parking. One prevailing image I have from the misadventure to the Palace of Pena is the number of tuk-tuks on the road. It’s a big clue about how to get around the municipality. Tuk-tuks ferry people all day up and down those steep roads to the palaces and trails and cost around €5. Even more of a life saver for day trips than the tuk-tuks is the number 434 bus, a.k.a. the tourist bus. This runs direct from Sintra Train station stopping at the town centre and then on to Pena Palace and the Castle of the Moors. A one way fare is €3,90 and the buses start at 9:15 am.

You may be tempted to take that hop on hop off bus that colourfully convinces your lazy sub-conscience that it’s the easiest way to move between palaces. Don’t be easily fooled. It also takes you in a loop around the whole Sintra Hills National Park and out to the coast. That’s precious Palace time lost forever.

Quinta de Regaleira (the best thing to do on one day in Sintra)

We weren’t disappointed. It’s rare a place impresses me so much when I didn’t expect it. Quinta de Regaleira house and estate are like an extract from a fantasy novel. There is a magical and mythical feeling within. The Estate was purchased in the late 19th century and work began to create a location that reflected the owners ideologies and interests. He had a vision of a property that blended imagery from alchemy, masonry, and the Knights Templar, with Gothic, Manueline and other styles. What resulted is bizarre and brilliant.

We found parking in a local hotel called the Tivoli Palacio de Seteias. Entry to the UNESCO recognised grounds was only €6 for an adult. This is for an unguided visit but maps are provided. Guided tours are available for €10. Ornaments and structures litter all corners of the four hectare estate. The grounds are supposed to represent the cosmos and each monument is significant in this.

There is a café outside the main house and we refueled there before heading in. The ground floor is lavishly furnished with murals adorning the walls. The upper floors are more barren, but there are balconies from which to view the grounds. One notable room is the library, which has a partially mirrored floor, guaranteed to induce vertigo.

The Grounds of Quinta de Regaleira

But the grounds without doubt are the main attraction, and easily traversed in an hour or so. Immediately outside the house is the Terrace of the Gods, a statue lined walkway which is simply epic. Tunnels link different parts of the grounds, and several of these converge on the initiation well. This is a fascinating subterranean structure containing a labyrinth grotto, and a winding stairs takes one back to the surface level. It is supposedly styled on Dante’s Inferno, and symbolic of his descent into hell.

There are a number of really interesting structures most notably;

Stopping then at Quinta de Regaleira was one of the few things we did well in Sintra. I could say I got it right… but we never even planned to visit. Hands down it was the best of all our stops on that day, and the one place that has left a lasting impression with me.

Praia de Adraga

Next we motored west towards Praia de Adraga, stopping at a bar in Almocageme for lunch. Not too much imagination as hot dogs and sandwiches are served. Then it was on to the beach. It’s a thirty minute drive from Sintra, through a collection of narrow snaking roads. Having found this beach breathtaking during my research the real thing duly emptied my lungs.

It is perfectly remote with no bars or beach clubs to ruin the natural beauty. Large sea stacks provide a target for the Atlantic’s booming waves, with deep caves and arches cut into their base by sea erosion. The immaculate sand stretches from there for several kilometres of uninterrupted beach. It is backed up by wild hills and giant boulders. This is my idea of a beach. The wildness was magnified by a strong coastal wind, but we spent an hour here, Nina playing and us exploring.

While there’s no argument that the beach is a worthwhile distraction from the town and its palaces, it is unfortunately also that. It’s rather out of the way and we lost two hours by our detour. Were I to suggest though that you spend more than one day in Sintra (I may still do that) then Praia de Adraga is possible to visit by bus number 403 that runs hourly. Though I can’t guarantee it will be a comforting ride on those snaking roads.

Palace of Pena (what brings everyone for a day in Sintra)

The round trip to the beach took longer than expected so when we arrived back in Sintra we deliberated that there wasn’t enough time to see our original destination the Palace of Pena. Instead we stopped at the Castelo de Mouros.

With our return came the harshest of realities of how our day was going. Pena Palace was what drew me to Sintra and now I wouldn’t be able to see it. Unless these distant photos count.

History of Pena Palace

Which they don’t. Pena Palace is particularly aesthetic famous for its blend of reds and yellows. Its a long distance from the cold stone behemoths of the British Isles. It is listed as one of the seven wonders of Portugal and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There once stood a monastery on this site but a conspiracy by nature in the 18th century saw it first struck by lightening, and then destroyed by the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755.

From the rubble, King Ferdinand II had a vision of a summer palace for the Kings and Queens of Portugal, and commissioned its building. Finished in 1854 it stands as one of the greatest examples of 19th century romanticism in the world. It’s principal architect was German Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege, whose background included work on some of the castles of the Rhine, but the Pena palace also includes elements of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance architecture.

Visiting Pena Palace

Pena Palace is the most visited site in Sintra, so I would recommend getting there early before the crowds arrive en masse. Grab the first tuk-tuk you see in Sintra. The park opens from 9 am with the palace following shortly after at 9.30 am. Entry into the palace is €14 for an adult, or to Pena Park is €7.50. Interestingly, its often noted that the inside of the palace is quite small, quite crowded and questionably worth the price of admission. The list includes Linda from Meandering My Way. Before I start justifying my decisions on the day I’ll stop myself. Seeing the castle up close in all its majesty is A MUST in Sintra. Walk its grounds and appreciate it from all angles, and peer down onto Sintra from above.

Castelo Dos Mouros

The Castelo de Mouros was built by the Moors in the 9th Century but fell into ruin after the Christian reconquest. It was restored in the 19th century. What remains are the significant battlements that snake around the Sintra hills, high above the town. Entry is €8 to see the castle. Be prepared for a lot of walking and a lot of steps. The castle is a series of stairs connecting the battlements which sit atop the various hills in their path. The views to Sintra below and across the hill to the Palace above are exhilarating. The hills are all interconnected by hiking paths and a few days could easily be spent discovering their treasures.

I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Moorish Castle and the views are stupendous. Why I chose it over Pena Palace, I can’t say now, but I don’t feel regret in having done so. To use those trails to hike between the two and visit both is what I implore you to do after your early morning visit to Pena Palace. Then follow the trails back down to the town. Follies and fountains fill the hill sides, and only by foot will you find them.

What to bring on a day in Sintra

The expectation is that even if you use the bus to reach Pena Palace, a lot of walking will be done over the day. Good, supportive walking shoes are a must for the terrain, even if you stay off the hiking trails. Bring plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat as a lot of times will be spent outdoors. If visiting in the shoulder seasons, rain cover may be needed, as this is not the Algarve. Last of all bring your sense of adventure, it will be nurtured here.

The Case for Spending more than one day in Sintra

Perhaps the greatest irony about this one day guide to Sintra is that I must confess one day simply isn’t enough to see all it has to offer. I’ve offered a sampling here of its biggest sights. But there’s so many more things to see in Sintra, and perhaps that’s why the one day disappointment exists. You will leave having not seen the Park and Palace of Monserrate, Convent of the Capuchos, Chalet and Garden of the Countess of Edla, the Sanctuary of Peninha and Villa Sassetti. Then there’s the Vale de Lagos Pateira botanical gardens, and the trails of Parque de Merendas. It’s definitely justification to extend that stay.

The coast in this region is nearly as aesthetic as the national park. Given time it’s worth a deviation to beaches such as Praia de Adraga and headlands such as Cabo de Roca. This headland is noted for being the most westerly point on mainland Europe. Further north is Praia das Macas a beach reached in 45 minutes by using the Sintra tram. Above the beach is the archeological site of Alto da Vigia, which marks as far west as the Roman civilisation reached.

Decided to stay in Sintra

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Private Tours of Sintra

If you are interested in a small group private tour of Sintra, they are available through Get Your Guide with some departing from Lisbon for the day. Alternatively it is an excellent source of skip the line tickets for attractions. This is a big consideration when travelling during those busy summer months.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too.

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Interested in visiting some of Europe’s other beautiful cities and towns? Here’s a few suggestions.

What are the Cotswolds?

The Cotswolds is a region in South Central England near Bath and Bristol, containing the Cotswolds hills. The whole region is a succession of rolling hills and has been designated an Area of Outstanding National Beauty. Beneath the hills is a Jurassic formed limestone. Its this golden coloured limestone that brings the area its most distinguishable feature, as it has been heavily mined for centuries and is used to build the areas distinct villages. Characterised by that stone, every village and house you see will have you oooing in amazement. If cake is food-porn then the Cotswolds are architecture-porn.

Our Visit to Castle Combe

A spring road trip in the United Kingdom took us through the Wiltshire countryside, with a stop in Castle Combe village high on the agenda, before the city of Bath. A period Cotswold village of magnificent houses, it would prove to have a lasting impression on my memory. What can I say about Castle Combe? That its possibly my new favourite village. Ever. Period.

Where is Castle Combe?

Castle Combe is located in the county of Wiltshire in South East England. Its nearest town is Chippenham five miles away. The closest city where you might be using as a base is Bath, one of Britain’s oldest and most interesting. Bath is fifteen miles from Castle Combe. Bristol, the local transport hub twenty miles away, has international links to 110 destinations. Cardiff the Welsh capital is fifty miles away while London is one hundred miles away. Its possible to day trip from any to Castle Combe.

The Cotswold village is located on the Bybrook River and is split into two, an upper and lower village. A car park is available near the upper village but we continued on and stopped on the road side bypassing the upper part. You are required to park your car out of the village, with the village being pedestrianized. We went on foot into the village and its a pleasant stroll through the surrounding woodlands.

What to do in Castle Combe

The Village

From first sight it is breathtaking. The village gets its name from a 13th century castle that once stood nearby. Once the castle was destroyed the limestone from the castle was then used to construct some of the cottages of the village. It all is so postcard perfect. Honestly there isn’t a lot to do here but when it all looks this good you will just be lost in the moment. I think that’s enough.

Manor House

While walking around a local woman suggested we enter a private area, and if anyone were to ask to say we were looking for our car. We were glad we did, as a walk by some cute as Christmas houses took us to the beautiful grounds of the Manor House Hotel, a country house from the 17th century and now an upscale hotel and golf club. The house which has quite a history is a Grade II listed building.

The grounds surrounding also were fitting with the river Bybrook cutting through on its way to Castle Combe, and steps leading to well-tended gardens above the house. The Italianate gardens were a delight with flower beds and a croquet lawn adding to the very Victorian feel We couldn’t help but feel we were trespassing a bit so we returned to the village after some brief exploring. Travel goals include returning and staying here some day. Those really wanting to get into the local swing of things, can play a round of golf at the Manor House Golf Club.

Want to stay in style at the Manor House or one of Castle Combes hotels? Book with the link below.

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Walk the length of the Village

All two minutes of it. Each house in the village seems more beautiful than the last and there are the side attractions of the medieval market cross and the church of St Andrews. We walked the length of the village and stopped to photograph the bridge as everyone who enters the town does. Some of the houses are off-limits; it can’t be easy calling somewhere like this home, when every day someone wants to stare in your window.

St Andrews Church is a small but attractive stop on the stroll through. Though originally built in the 13th century, it has been altered many times since and contains several different architectural styles. The graveyard has a number of interesting tombs and gravestones before you reach the structure. At the base of the church tower is a faceless clock, which is considered to be the among the oldest working clocks in the country. Within, the Lady Chapel is of most interest, particularly a memorial to Walter de Dunstanville, the Baron of Castle Combe until 1270.

At the convergence point of Castle Combe’s three main streets is a Market Cross. It was built in the 14th century when the village earned the right to hold a market. The structure is known as a butter cross, a common structure of the time where people would gather to buy and sell dairy.

Have a little lunch or Snack in Castle Combe

There are a few options for food in authentic village surroundings such as the Castle Inn and the Old Rectory Tea Room. The Old Rectory tea rooms are in a house dating from 1490, and are open to groups of six or more by reservation. The Castle Inn is even older, with its origins in the 12th century. The pub below is as traditional as it gets, and its fare as British as possible, with pies, fish and chips and afternoon tea served. We had a quick coffee and scone in the Old Stables Coffee Shop a pleasant place with very friendly staff. The outdoor seating is ideal to enjoy them on sunny mornings.

Castle Combe in the Movies

If you recognise the village a little it’s probably from its use as the set in many main stream movies and shows. From the original Doctor Doolittle to modern day Downton Abbey, the town has hosted Anthony Hopkins in the Wolfman, and the great Steven Spielberg. Many of the main scenes of Warhorse were filmed here.

Castle Combe Circuit

It is also famed for the Castle Combe circuit, with race meetings taking place each year in the nearby World War II airfield. The Polish airmen of the war were soon replaced by loud fast cars. Over the past 70 years Formula 3 cars, motorcycles, sports and Gt’s have all hurled around the track. Annually there is a two day summer meeting, with a full weekend of racing. It’s the guaranteed busiest weekend of the year in the passive Cotswolds village.

Take a Guided Tour of Castle Combe and the Cotswolds

There are many group tours take make a stop in Castle Combe while visiting the Cotswolds and Stratford-upon-Avon. Get your guide offers a reliable service to book a tour.

Castle Combe Gallery

As I mentioned before the greatest joys are in walking and admiring. With that in mind I will let my photos speak for themselves. They usually say a thousand words, and no truer than when a village looks like this. The following is my argument that Castle Combe is Britain’s finest.

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Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too.

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I have visited Eger twice, the first in 2015 when huge efforts were being made to renovate the city. This visit was tarnished as a result but we returned to see it in its prime, with its front foot firmly planted forward. The city is the location of several magnificent churches, a castle overlooking the town, some Turkish Baths, fine Baroque architecture, and is the centre of a famed wine region. Enough to further its claim as Hungary’s most beautiful city. To see the city a few days are needed and here are my suggestions on what not to miss. But first, the logistics.

Budapest to Eger

Eger is located about 133 km north-east of Budapest, near the Bukk mountains and National Park. That’s about a 2 hour drive along M3 and M25 motorways. Alternatively there is a train running from Budapest-Keleti station that reaches the city in about 1 hour 50 minutes. The trains runs daily on the hour, and the railway station is 1.5 km from the city centre.

Eger is a small city in Northern Hungary with only a population of around 53,000 people, making it the 19th most populace in Hungary. This means it is easy to navigate on foot. There are a fleet of buses run by KMKK Zrt. serving the town, which are useful for connections from the train and bus station and the Valley of the Beautiful Women. Before all the hot blooded males in my readership get too excited though, I suggest you read on.

Where to Stay in Eger

Most of Eger’s visitors are Hungarians, or from the Czech republic or Slovakia. Most of the rest of the world is really missing out. While Eger is more traditionally visited as a day trip, its definitely worth staying a night. Eger’s compact centre mean that wherever you find accommodation, you are always close to amenities. Hotels and apartments are available at very reasonable rates, starting at around the €40 mark and rarely exceeding €100. At the tip of this are luxury offerings such as Hotel Corona Wellness, Hotel Eger and Imola Hotel Platin. At the lower end are a number of panzio’s which are more similar to B&B’s.

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History of Eger, Hungary

Eger was formed in the 10th century by Saint Stephen, the patron saint of Hungary. It started as a religious settlement, with a cathedral where Eger Castle now stands. Or doesn’t stand as it turns out. The settlement grew around the cathedral. From the 12th century, viticulture was practiced here, a tradition still carried to this day. In 1241 a Mongol invasion briefly stopped Eger’s growth, by burning the place to the ground.

But Eger rose from the ashes like a Phoenix. The ruling archbishops ordered that a castle replace the cathedral which once stood. Forests were cleared and wine became the focus. However the 16th century would prove tumultuous, as battles raged in the empire and the castle changed hands many times. Eger Castle would write itself in the history books in 1552 (see below) in defence against the Ottoman empire. However in 1596, Eger would fall, and a near century of Ottoman rule would follow. A Habsburg led crusade finally defeated the Ottomans in 1687.

What followed was a time of rebuilding again, and a further occupation by the Habsburgs. An 8 year war of independence in the early 18th century failed, and soon after a plague beset the town. Once again Eger rose from this and many of its current Baroque buildings where built in the subsequent century. In the failed rebellion of 1848, the archbishops who ruled the town were finally overthrown. Eger was slow to react to the industrial revolution, and as a consequence didn’t grow as other Hungarian cities have in the following centuries. Which is in itself a blessing for the visitor, as it retains its charm.

Things to do in Eger, Hungary

Eger Castle

Standing over the town Eger castle is one of those rarities, a castle without any obvious castle. But don’t let that deter you. Built on a rock above the city, it’s a tantalising walk up along the outside till you reach the castles gates. Entrance costs 1400 HUF giving access to all exhibits. At this time 1 Euro is equal to around 357 HUF (Hungarian Forint).

The walls and the towering views from them are probably the main attraction here. The castle still has a rough feel with the rock face exposed in many places giving it more of an air of authenticity. It was in a poor state of repair when it was entrusted to the state. Most of the buildings within are newish constructs, many of them hosting museums.

The Istvan Dodo Museum showcases the history of the castle, and don’t miss the Kazamatak (casemates) a series of cellars that run underground, and also the dungeon that hosts a morbid torture museum. Most of your time however is best spent looking across those formidable walls to the beautiful city that lies beneath. The views from the though ramparts are what will mostly drag you here and it’s exactly where you want to be as the sun sets over the town.

History of Eger Castle

Eger castle was constructed first in the thirteenth century and grew rapidly. It’s greatest historical fame lies in the repelling of a 40000 strong Turkish army in 1552, by a Hungarian army of 400. It’s the tale of the 300 Spartans told the Magyar way. During the siege the defending soldiers led by Dobo Istvan, asked that the cellars beneath the castle be cracked open. The Egri Bikavér wine was savaged and its thick red juices ran down the beards of the soldiers. This led the Turkish soldiers to think it was mixed with bull’s blood to give the soldier’s strength and they were demoralised. Defeat soon followed. More on that wine later. The castle suffered its final loss in 1701, when the Austrians blew it up. As goes the story of pretty much every Hungarian Castle.

Eger’s Churches

This is where Eger really excels. There are in particular three very different churches that simply amazed me to see.

The Minorite Church

The Minorite Church is the focal point of the Dobo Istvan Square. From the exterior its twin bell towers do draw the eye in the square but it’s upon entering that the church really astounds. The original church that stood here was destroyed by floods and the present one was finished in 1771. The Baroque style was flourishing in Europe at the time with the backing of the catholic church, and the interior here is a fantastic display of baroque art.

There are a five sections of vaulting, and each of them are beautiful to inspect. They contain a series of scenes from the life of St Anthony. Also there are three altars each of them as intrinsically decorated as each other, and a couple of hand carved pews that are possibly the churches most beautiful attribute. All the more surprising is that no admission charge is in effect for such an aesthetic church.

That said, the church belonged to the Franciscan Order and they were less than pleased with the extravagance of the church at large. The architect was a renowned Bohemian architect who worked predominantly in Prague. His name was completely omitted from the plague commemorating those who built the church. The interior vaulting art was by Marton Reindl and the church weren’t happy with his work either, citing its poor quality. Clearly they saw something I didn’t. Or perhaps didn’t want to pay simply.

Serbian Church

The St Nicholas Greek Orthodox Serbian Church lies outside the city centre but is worth the detour. I drove out but it is about a 15 minute walk out. It’s position atop a hill and it’s onion dome gives it distinction. The church is no longer used for religious reasons and now serves as an exhibition centre. Built during the 17th century and altered more in the 18th not much remains of the original interior. But there’s one really good reason to visit this church. Its accessed by a wooden gate from a quiet side street, and the dilapidated headstones give no notice of what lies within. We were met by the curator, whose house lies within the grounds. An entry charge of 400 HUF was exchanged and we were led inside.

The interior contains a work known as an iconostasis which separates the nave from the sanctuary. Measuring 10 metres by 12.5 metres, and featuring 60 different panels carved by Nicola Jankovic and painted by Anton Kuchelmeister. It took two years to complete in the 18th century. Made up of gold leaf and braid its a simply stunning piece of art and astoundingly beautiful to look at. The church also contains a very authentic pulpit designed in the same ilk as the iconostasis.

Eger Basilica

Eger Basilica is probably the lesser of the three churches within the city but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth including in a tour. On my more complete second visit to the city I certainly did. This neo-classical church was completed in the mid 19th century, and the only thing affirming its pious function is the cross atop its roof. The impressive building is reached by a flight of steps and its columns dwarf its entrance.

It’s the most expensive of the Eger churches set to enter at 800 HUF, but there is a large interior space to explore. Its greatest asset is its collection of domes which run along the central nave. The best of these were painted by Istvan Takacs and feature scenes from the apocalypse. The high ceilings of the church are bathed in light from the ceiling level windows, and the illuminated paintings are very attractive. The altar and organ are the churches other worthwhile features.

Walk the Streets of Eger

The city itself is a pleasure to stroll through. The small Eger-Patak (a river) calmly weaves past streets and under bridges. The Baroque buildings and architecture are a mismatch of colours, all bright yellows and pinks, and it works to perfection. It reminds me of an Italian town, from the laid back cafes to the gelaterias. The streets are mostly pedestrianized, and we had to park our car outside the centre and walk in, but it all adds to the atmosphere for this perfect little city.

Valley of the Beautiful Woman- Where to try Bulls Blood Red Wine

We stayed in the Tulipan Garden Panzio in Eger which was a little outside the city in a very pretty neighbourhood. But better still it was a short walking distance from the Szepasszony-volg, or the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. This is the centre of Eger’s famous wine trade and the area is full of Pince (wine cellars), big and small, offering their take on the red wine. Eger also produces a number of original whites such as Egri Leanyka, Ererszolati, and Debroi Harslevelu. Of late Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also produced.

Egri Bikaver or Bull’s Blood, is a blend of five different grapes and besides its battle winning qualities, it is also quite delicious. I found it more to my palate than the sweeter wines of Tokaj, Hungary’s more famous wine region. Read my travel guide on the Tokaj Wine Region here.

Eger Wine Tasting

The area is characterised by the pince, many of which are reminiscent of a cave. We took advice from a random by passer and ventured into the open number 17. It was cold, it was dank, the proprietor didn’t speak English… and the wine was fantastic. He poured the glasses from a long glass beaker and a tasting glass cost a mere 100 HUF. That’s about 30 cents. It was a wonderful introduction to the Valley of the Beautiful Woman. We later left the confines of the cellar and ventured into the main square of the area, which is surrounded by food stalls and enough cellars to leave one in a very inebriated state. We again followed advice but this time from a Hungarian friend and settled into the more comfortable Molnar Pinceszet, for some more Bikaver and Muskotaly.

You could easily spend the evening here with a wide selection of dining and drinking options, or like us you could make your way into the city. It’s nearly 4km in so unless you fancy the walk there are shuttles that run into the Basilica. It’s the only time I felt like I fell into a tourist trap in the city, and at 2000 HUF a person it was daylight robbery, but we paid it for the convenience.

The Minaret

The Minaret is a leftover from the Ottoman occupation. It was constructed in the 17th century as part of the mosque which once stood here. It stands 40 metres high and was built from red sandstone. Much of the Ottoman monuments were destroyed after the break from their rule but any attempts to destroy this minaret failed, including that by 400 oxen with ropes. They like the number 400 in Eger. It stands as the most northerly minaret still in existence.

The Minaret is an incredibly thin tower and anyone with claustrophobia would do well to steer clear. I climbed it on my earlier visit which was fortunate as during the summer of 2018 it was undergoing some restorative works. It only cost 300 HUF at the time to enter and both I and Beata paid in to climb it. When we stepped inside she took one look which was followed by a refund. I wasn’t to be so easily put off, and made the 97 step climb to the viewing platform. It is very narrow on those stairs with only space for a single person. But I always feel its worth it for the views and Eger is such a colourful city. The blend of yellow, red, white and green really tantalised the eye.

Marzipan Museum

Just off the bottom of the Minaret is the very niche but beautiful Marzipan Museum. This museum is the brain child of Hungarian pastry chef, Kopcsik Lajos. The chef found fame internationally for his creations and this spurred him to open a museum to showcase them. It’s a very visual museum and its amazing what he was capable of doing with almond and sugar.

Amongst the many exhibits include a Russian Family, a full size grandfather clock. a model of the Minaret, and numerous heads, recreations of artworks and ornaments. It’s all done very tastefully. The centerpiece of the museum is a recreation of a baroque room, in honour of Eger’s baroque tradition. All of the exhibits are incredibly made from marzipan, and the handiwork is very admirable. It’s not a huge museum but it is a perfect distraction for those seeking something different. It certainly tops the unusual list for things to do in Eger Hungary.

Lyceum

The Lyceum is one of the more unusual visits I made. It was originally constructed in Baroque grandeur to be a university, but the Hapsburgs put a halt to its opening. So what exists is an enormous building encircling a courtyard, with vast empty halls. Or so it seemed in summer. It finally realised its university ambitions in the 20th century. Admission was 500 HUF each and directional signs take you up grand staircases to the observatory tower. The exhibitions are part science museum, and part gallery of the astronomical equipment that were originally purchased for the university.

One final stairs takes you to a roof, for more fine views over the city. It’s best to wait till twenty minutes past the hour, as at this point one is taken up to the camera obscura. At the time this was built it was only the second in Europe after Edinburgh. As the room darkens and the optics move into position, it’s a really intriguing twenty minutes as sights from the city are projected. You have to admire the engineering that constructed it. The tour guide here was multilingual and had excellent English. There was good humour in his presentation too and it was quite interactive.

One final sight worth visiting is the library, with its ceiling frescoes by Kracker. It is one of three rooms that the talented Austrian painted, however this is the only one open to the public.

Archbishops Palace

We also visited the Archbishops Palace the 18th century home of the head of the church. It has been recently renovated and now hosts the Eger art museum on the first floor. At 1800 HUF it was the most expensive of the Eger attractions and the most disappointing as well. The identity seems to have been lost in the renovation. The ground floor showcases many vestments and reliquaries from the church. The rooms that maintained their original furnishings, such as the study room with its murals, were beautiful. Perhaps the buildings most lavish room is the small chapel located within, but this can only be seen through an elevated viewing platform and glass.

The City Under The City

The City under the City attraction is a guided only tour that takes you into the archbishop cellars. The tour takes about 45 minutes but we were a little put off. It’s quite cold down below and we weren’t really dressed for it and all tours are only in Hungarian, so unless you are more fluent than I (I can order a drink or food) it detracts from the experience.

Turkish Baths

Every Hungarian city worth its salt has its own thermal baths, and Eger is no exception. Warm thermal waters flow beneath the ground of the entire city, and several bath complexes are available. The most traditional of these are the Turkish Baths built by Abdi Pasha the Albanian between 1610 and 1617. Besides the relaxing six pools that are now available to guests, its main feature is a cupula which is covered in 200,000 gold plated mosaics. Also worth seeing is the modern thermal bath Bitskey Aladar, named after a famous swimmer. It features secession architecture, an art nouveau style made famous in Eastern Europe at the turn of the last century.

Egri Road Beatles Museum

In the city’s Corona Hotel, is the rather unexpected Beatles Museum. It takes visitors back in time through the bands career with music, photographs, and newspaper clippings. I could find no relationship between the band and Eger, but hey its The Beatles- does there need to be? The guided tour costs 2500 HUF per person.

Dining on Istvan Dobó Ter

István Dobó Square is Eger’s main square and plenty of restaurants and cafes are in the surrounding area. With a backdrop of the castle and the Minorite Church it’s an aesthetic way to dine. We had lunch in HBH Bajor Sorhaz, an upmarket restaurant where I can recommend the delicious goose leg and the Rantott Hus. It’s one of the best places in town to get that delicious breaded pork.

We returned to the square that evening as the last shards of daylight left, and had dinner in Senator-haz Etterem. Here we were content to order the venison goulash, and we were lucky enough to have landed here on 20th September which is the public holiday in honour of St Istvan, the founder of the Hungarian nation. We had prime seats for the firework display that marked this occasion as they lit the sky above us.

Why Eger is Hungary’s Most Beautiful

Eger is a touristic city, but far from being swamped in tourism. It’s charms have yet to draw in large numbers of visitors and its sights can be easily enjoyed.

As Hungarian cities go it impressed me the most. The qualities of Budapest are well known, but this little city may just sneak it on charm and charisma.

The sights are strictly limited to the city. The surrounding area contains salt terraces, cave houses and the Matra Mountains. It’s why I recommend an extended stay in Eger. My guide to the Matra Mountains.

Let someone else show you Eger

There are a number of tours of Eger running directly from Budapest, if you choose to see the city that way. Get your guide offers two very interesting ones, taking in the surrounding countryside too.

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Leamaneh Castle is all but a ruin today. It sits on private land near the intersection of the R476 and the R480, the road which travels through the magnificent Burren in County Clare. As it is on private land it’s not possible to enter, without the expressed permission of the owners. However there is space on the road side from which to admire it from. Nowadays it’s short a roof and only the shell remains of what it once was.

If you stand and linger long enough, it’s easy to see the sinister edge of the place. The red haired ghost of Mary is said to still haunt this place to this day. With all the blood on her hands from her life, it would come as no surprise. The ravens circling above add another dimension to this haunting ruin.

History of Leamaneh Castle

Little is known of the history of the castle before or after its famed inhabitant. The tower house on the end is said to have been built around 1480 by Toirdealbhach Donn MacTadhg O’Briain, King of Thomond. O’Brian would later surrender to King Henry VIII, to become earl of Thomond. It served its defensive purpose until the day Red Mary walked in its door.

When Red Mary moved to Leamaneh Castle in the 1640’s with her second husband Conor O’Brian, they set about creating a home of some note. The 4 storey tower was extended to become a 4 storey high gabled mansion. Large mullioned and transomed windows became a defining feature of what was one of the most splendid houses in the country during the 17th century. The decorative rather than defensive form was particularly unusual, as this was a time of much strife on the island of Ireland.

The Fall of Leamaneh Castle

Red Mary’s son Donagh, moved the family seat to Dromoland castle in 1689, and were the wealthiest and most powerful family in the area. Leamaneh fell into ruin with the years and by the 18th century was completely derelict. The barbican gates that once adorned the estate can now be seen at Dromoland (they were moved there by the Baron Inchiquin, the descendant of Mary). For an dramatic image of how it looks now, this superb video should by TheNigelCox should have your imagination racing.

How Red Mary ended up in Leamaneh Castle

Red Mary McMahon (or Maire Rua as she was known in Irish), was born in 1615 to wealth. Her father was Lord of Clonderlaw, and her mother the daughter of the third Earl of Thomond. She was known for her bright red hair, and maybe the name referenced her temperament a little too. She married Daniel O’Neylan of Dysert O’Dea Castle in County Clare. On the death of her first husband she inherited his lands and a dowry of £1000, which was in fact a substantial amount in its day. It’s then that her story starts to get interesting. After marrying her second husband, Conor O’Brien they packed up and moved to Leamaneh.

Mary and her husband were known opponents of Cromwellian rule, and they would ride out together to attack English settlers. When O’Brien was badly wounded during on attack on the Cromwellian general Henry Ireton in the battle of Inchicronan, he was taken back to the castle where he died. Mary, in knowledge that she would now forfeit her lands, rode to Limerick, where she then offered to marry any Cromwellian officer. John Cooper was the lucky (or is that unlucky) soldier who stood up. With the marriage he in fact gained great wealth, and Mary was able to retain her family’s home and power.

The history books tell us that Mary and John Cooper lived to a handsome age, and Mary gave birth to twelve children along the way. But that’s how the history books note it. Local folklore and popular belief tell a much different story.

Will the real Red Mary please stand up

So now we know the history behind the woman, what about the woman behind the history? Many, many stories abound of her cruelty and the Clare Library is a great resource on them. True or not, here’s some of the more outlandish.

A Good Wife

As Conor O’Brien returned to Leamaneh dying from his wounds, Mary is said to have thrown open her window and yelled “What do I want with dead men here”? She did nurse him in his dying moments, but after his death it wasn’t long before she was married again. Whether we put this down to an insatiable appetite for men, or a smart tactical move is open to debate.

Red Mary’s third husband John Cooper met his comeuppance when he made a comment to Mary about her previous husband. Taking offence she jumped out of bed, kicked him in the stomach and he subsequently died. Conflicting reports say he died while shaving. Perhaps she picked her time well to lay that kick. Other stories suggest he “fell” from a third floor window.

Rumour also has it that she had 25 husbands over her lifetime. After a year and a day she would divorce them. What was that I said about appetites again? Having switched to Protestantism for her third marriage, it’s not altogether impossible. Or did they indeed come to a more sinister end?

A Tough Enemy

Red Mary is said to have sent enemies over the Cliffs of Moher on horseback, where they then plummeted to their death in the sea below. The cliffs are about 20 km away, and many question if this actually happened. But a clue possibly lies in the name of the castle. Leamaneh translates as the horse’s leap. Did that name become attached before or after the time of Red Mary. We may never know but I’ll let you, the reader, draw your own conclusion.

Red Mary was known to hang the servants that displeased her. The men by their necks and the women by their hair. She is also said to have cut off the breasts of the women.

A Deserving End to Red Mary

Mary obviously crossed too many people in her time, as she finally met her demise when her enemies rounded and buried her alive in a hallowed out tree. Whether the tree stood at Leamaneh or at the nearby Carnelly near Clare Castle is the subject of much speculation. It is said that the ghost of Mary haunts both. I wouldn’t put it past her; she seemed formidable. Personally I wonder how you bury someone in a tree? Her red haired ghost is said to still walk the floors of the castle. Perhaps it’s the reason why it was left to fall into ruin.

Have I piqued your curiosity in haunted castles? Then Leap Castle should be on your itinerary. With around 50 ghosts in attendance its sure to send a chill down your spine. Especially on the self guided tour. Read my experience of Leap Castle here.

Looking for accommodation in Clare? Booking.com is always a safe bet. Using the link below might help me update my face mask collection. This post contains affiliate links, which means I may subsequently receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support. Best to zoom out.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lockdowns are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and now protect domestic trips also.

Your Bern itinerary should easily include everything the city is known for. A city of fountains and bears set on the banks of the River Aare, its beauty will surprise you. It’s one of those rare places where I would be as happy to live as to visit. Bern is easily appreciated on a day trip from the Swiss Alps region too.

Arriving in Switzerland for our One Day in Bern

If you are arriving into Switzerland the nearest airport serving Bern airport itself. It’s a small airport, which only services a small number of international airports and is linked to the city by the S3 train and bus 160. Alternatively Bern is located some 105 kilometers from Basel and that trip roughly takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, all going well. Bern is also 126 kilometres from Zurich airport, or 159 kilometres from Geneva, making it very convenient to access. Switzerland is in the centre of Europe, and has great links to the countries that surround it also.

Our arrival in Switzerland via Basel wasn’t perfect. We have yet to master the art of travelling light, and with the weather promising everything from cold, to rainy days, thunderstorms and sweltering hot ones, we packed for all seasons, and arrived in Switzerland with a lot more clothes than we probably should have. Or as it turned out after seven days of sun and a singular thunderstorm, far too many clothes. But hey the forecast lied to us. Of course that meant we came out on top, so it’s a small price to pay.

Taking the early flight from Dublin we touched down in Basel EuroAirport at 10:20am which we had been surprised to learn was in France. It conveniently services the two aforementioned countries, and also the city of Freiburg in Germany. The queues for the passport control were longer than one would hope, with the non-EU queue that many joined, far quicker than the EU one. Certainly something to bear in mind if flying in here.

After some drama involving our rental car we were set and on our way to Bern (see my Driving in Europe post for more on that one).

Travelling to Bern by train

Switzerland is as well serviced by train as any country in the world. To that extent many choose to travel by train. Should this be your choice and you can’t fly to Bern then the Zurich service is fastest, arriving in 1 hr 12 minutes, versus 1 hr 30 from Basel and 1 hr 45 from Geneva. Rail travel is expensive (what isn’t in Switzerland) and it is advisable to buy a Swiss Travel Pass. The fare card gives huge discounts on multiple trips. Trains serve all the major sights in any Switzerland itinerary from Lucerne to Lauterbrunnen and are the only way to reach the top of Europe at Jungfrau. Bern train station is centrally located at the end of Neuengasse.

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Where to stay in Bern

Bern is a compact city and so the best places to stay are in its heart. I always prefer standalone and boutique hotels over big chains, just for the personality they exude. Highly recomended come the Hotel Allegro Bern, the Hotel Savoy, and the Bristol. Upper-end price options such as the Hotel Bellevue Palace and the Hotel Schweizerhof will satisfy any of your demands. All of the above are located in the old town of Bern. The lower end mostly consists of Ibis and Metropoles and hostels such as the Bern Backpackers Hotel Glocke. Booking through booking.com gives the best rates and through this widget may help put my kids through college.

One day in Bern- or was it?

We decided to go for a lower end hotel for our stay in Bern. All went well until we reached Bern. I had added our hotel to the GPS prior to the trip but honestly didn’t pay much attention to its location at that time. So we reached Bern, circled around it and suddenly found ourselves back out in the countryside. Now this was rather unusual.

I still can’t figure out how but our hotel was EIGHT KILOMETERS outside the city of Bern. Maybe the hotel name threw me, Hotel Bern as it was known on booking.com. Or it could have been the location, Bernstrasse. But then again why would there be a Bernstrasse in Bern? Who said travel was perfect.

Ziegel Husi Hotel

As it turned out to be actually known was our hotel. Maybe I have a case for false advertising. Ziegel Husi Restaurant and Hotel is located in a very Swiss looking building on the site of a working vinegar factory, in the village of Stettlen. Luckily a smell of vinegar didn’t fill the air. The restaurant is said to be great, though we can’t attest to that. Hotel Bern isn’t too modern, but was clean and comfortable, and quite fine to spend one night in.

It presents itself as a budget offering to stay near Bern too, that is to say if €140 can be considered budget. But then again Switzerland was never going to be a budget trip. Surrounded by rolling green hills the area was beautiful, and like much of Switzerland the village was punctuated by attractive chalets.

Free parking in the hotel allowed me to ditch the car in favour of public transportation, and the hotel was very close to a train station linking to the heart of Bern. A fifteen minute trip and the city was at our mercy. The train into the city costs Fr 4.60, which equated to €4.10. There isn’t much difference in the exchange with Euro.

Exchange rates to Swiss Franc

$1 = Fr 0.92

€1 = Fr 1.08

£1 = Fr 1.09.

Our Bern in One Day Itinerary

They say problems usually come in threes, so what did Bern have in store for us. I had no reason to be apprehensive, as from the minute we disembarked the train station, I knew this was a city I was going to love. And fall in love with Bern I did. Its historical core, cobbled pedestrianized streets and relaxed atmosphere appealed so much to me. Flags hang from windows down many streets, with a notable great feeling of pride in their city from the locals. Being Swiss, absolutely everywhere is spotless.

We started our tour down Aarbergasse, which runs right to the heart of the city. Trams and buses run up and down here, ringing bells at oblivious tourists, marveling at the city. Yes I was one. The arcaded street sides provide shelter from the elements and the transport, and play host to the usual suspects of high street shopping. Needless to say I lost Beata in there for some time.

Bern History

Known locally as Berne, the city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and deservedly so. Founded in 1191 by the Zahringer family who ruled much of the area from Burgundy, before becoming a part of the Holy Roman Empire. It finally became part of the Swiss Confederation in 1353. The city grew in size becoming the largest Swiss city north of the Alps, and expanded its territory.

These territorial advance was halted by occupying French troops in 1798, during the French Revolutionary Wars, and much of its territories were stripped. It later regained control of the Bernese Oberland and Bernese Jura. In 1848 Bern was made the Swiss capital and has remained so since. Not the most interesting of histories but that doesn’t detract from the city’s historical core. At present Bern has a population of 140,000, making it the fourth most populous of Switzerland’s cities.

Your Bern Itinerary- A Walking Tour

Part of appeal about Bern lies in walking its streets and marveling at the buildings of the old town. Many of the current buildings date back centuries, a fire in 1405 destroyed the wooden buildings at the time, and they were replaced by half timbered and sandstone houses in the following centuries. The streets are a cacophony of colour from the flags. The roofs of the city’s houses are a delight to see, many have cute dormer windows, and those houses form a maze when looked on from above. 

Street Fountains of Bern

The Bernese love their street fountains. Besides the fact that water is palatable everywhere in Switzerland and the fountains on the street are the perfect place to refill your water bottles, they serve a more artistic purpose in Bern. A series of fountains dots the old town with most of them dating from the 16th century and nearly all the work of Hans Gleng. Its an impressive array of work, as the columns represent Moses, Justice, Samson, a piper, and inevitably a Bear which is the symbol of Bern. Of the one hundred odd fountains in Bern eleven are like this.

Towers

I cannot go anywhere without paying some towers a visit and Bern was to be no exception. Mind you it’s hard to miss them if you walk down the main thoroughfare. Firstly, you will come across the Kafigturm, a clock and bell tower from 1644. Prior to this it served as a prison and a gatehouse on the walls of Bern’s medieval city, but was rebuilt in its present baroque form. It is possible to visit the interior.

Zytglogge

The accolade of best tower easily belongs to the Zytglogge though. This tower dates back 800 years and to sum up has been a guard tower, prison for women who had relations with priests, clock tower and more recently a symbol of Bern. This is owed in part to its many changes, certainly the most significant being the addition of its 15th century astronomical clock. It’s one of the finest I’ve seen. Besides the attractive clocks on the east and west facades, the tower has so many interesting features.

A large figure of Chronos, the Greek figure of time, strikes the bell with a hammer on the hour. The astronomical clocks displays far more than just the time. It is said that the astronomical clock here was what influenced Einstein to think outside the box. But is it the main draw? No. At ten to the hour crowds gather on the streets below, as we did, to watch the 16th century mechanism, when the dance of bears and a jesters begins. We are all a sucker for a good show. Its an early form of mechanics, and perhaps the influence for cuckoo clocks.

Limited opening hours mean there only one tour every day of the Zytglogge at 2:30pm and tckets can be booked through the official website or on get your guide.

Interesting Buildings to see on a Day in Bern

Being Switzerland there is no shortage of interesting and seriously cute buildings in Bern. This was part of the reason that I enjoyed walking around. As I was only visiting for a day, I limited my time to the streets mostly, and appreciated the city for its aesthetics rather than its depth. Much of the best architecture cannot be visited though such as the Hollanderturm, Parliament Building or the Town Hall of 1406, to name but a few.

The Hollanderturm, is a tower dating from the 13th century but with a distinctly beautiful 17th century upper floor. Bern Town Hall is distinguished by its elegant double stairs, with a balcony for politicians to make speeches from. The building appeared somewhat Venetian to me. I popped in the open door, but was politely told it wasn’t open to the public. It does open for tours on four occasions each year, which are detailed on the website, so if you are lucky enough to be in town, it would be an interesting one to see the interior of.

Bern Munster

As the city’s cathedaral, Bern Munster is the tallest in the country. Construction began in 1421 but the tower was only completed in 1893. To think I thought progress on the Sagrada Familia was slow. The Munster is a pleasant church without being mind-blowing. Entrance is from the west and I advise taking time to pause and study the central portal. Featuring sculptures from Edhard Kung it depicts the Last Judgement, with the righteous separated from the wicked, who inevitably end up in hell. It’s a beautiful work of art and took its artist 20 years between 1460 and 1480 to complete.

Entry into the Munster is refreshingly free and you are free to walk around the interior. Photography however is not permitted in the interior. As cathedrals go it wasn’t the most spectacular I’ve seen, perhaps owing to the protestant iconoclasm of the protestant reformation in the 16th century. Many paintings and altars were removed and destroyed. In conclusion, what has survived is the high altar and choir, the organ, and thankfully the stain glass windows, which are quite fine, with some dating to the 15th century.

Bell Tower

Having saved my energies from the two previous towers I had encountered the tower at Bern Munster was firmly in my sights. The steeple at 110 metres is the tallest in Switzerland, and 254 steps await before you reach the top. There are a few floors where you can stop to catch your breath, and you can bet I did. The tower does have a cover charge of Fr 5, which I thought quite reasonable, and from the top the views out over the town are beautiful. Those previously mentioned Bernese rooftops are a pleasure to look over and the River Aare is a beauty. In the distance the snow covered Alps were a sneak preview of what awaited us in the coming days.

There is some interesting artwork on the bell tower, and the route up presents many glimpses of the churches flying buttresses. The descent from the tower takes a different route, bringing you by Munster’s bells. They include the largest in Switzerland, the ten tonne Grosse Glocke from 1611. You don’t want to be here when these bells ring at 12 and 6 daily, but I did see earmuffs provided if you do.

River Aare Views

Whilst the views from the bell tower of the Munster are great, to really want to appreciate the River Aare you need to walk around the circumference of the city. A good place to start is the Parliament Building, from where the Aare is backed by the Swiss Alps. However my two favourites were the Kirchenfeldbrucke, which is to the south of the city, and the Kornhausbrucke to the north. Here we can really see just how turquoise are those waters. The waters are fed from glaciers up in the alps and the dissolving of minerals in the process results in its stunning appearance.

Standing on the Kirchenfeldbrucke I was amazed, as to one side the parliament rises from the river, and to the other the Munster. I could have easily stood there all day long taking it all in. If I can suggest one place to find in Bern, in summary, this is it.

From here, keep those gorgeous views coming with a visit to the Munsterplattform, a viewing deck in the shadow of the Munster. Any visit to Bern should continue down Gerechtigkeitsgasse (probably the longest word I’ve ever typed in a blog), as this aesthetic street leads to more wonderful bridge views at the Nydeggbrucke. It also leads to one of Bern’s top attractions, and in doing so provides us with the answer of where Bern got its name.

Bear Park of Bern

Bern has always had a relationship with bears, even since its founding days. It’s the city’s symbol, and can be found everywhere you look. Legend or not, the city is said to have gotten its name from its bears. Nowadays, the bears can be found in the city’s Bear Park, located just beyond the Nydeggbrucke. The Bear Park winds down to the river and in this idyllic surroundings, the local population of bears, which now numbers three, walk, laze and swim. We only caught brief glimpses through the vegetation. It’s an interesting feature of what is a above all, a very interesting city.

Rosen Garden

Within minutes of the Bears is the Rosen Garden. The park is Bern’s most famous. It ascends above the city giving prime views over the Munster and bend of the River Aare. The park features over 400 varieties of roses, and springtime displays of cherry blossoms. Not bad for what used to be the city’s cemetery. A bench featuring a statue of Albert Einstein has become the most sought after selfie location in the city.

Museums- Things to do in Bern on a wet day

If you want to add culture to your Bern itinerary, then the huge number of Bern museums will be right up your street. Better still they are nearly all located in the one area. Crossing over the scenic Kirchenfeldbrucke. The first here is the Kunsthalle, an art museum. Right next to it is the Alpine Museum of Switzerland, which has exhibits on the Alps. Also here are the Museum of Communication and the Natural History Museum, if that’s your thing.

The best of Bern’s museums is the Einstein House. Albert Einstein lived in this flat from 1903 to 1905 and developed his theory of relativity here. The interior is decorated in period furniture and contains documents from his time spent in the city. 1905 was Einstein’s extraordinary year. Did Bern inspire him? It’s a distinct possibility.

Where to eat during a day in Bern?

Our mantra for Switzerland when it came to food, was to keep it simple, save, and keep the cost down. So street food was the order of the day in Bern. Our lunch was a modest sandwich from a stall on Neuengasse. At Fr 6.50 each it fell easily in our budget. Our plan had been to eat from the supermarkets Migros and Coop, once a day and then have a restaurant meal, but this fit in perfectly. Plus I’m generally happy with street food.

For dinner we made the upgrade to pizza. All in all not to healthy. There are many open air restaurants around the city centre, but with our energy levels dwindling from the early flight, we settled on Da Vinci. It’s an Italian restaurant on Spitalgasse. So we shared a pizza with a beer, water and coffee and escaped with a bill of only Fr 34, which quite frankly I thought was winning in Switzerland. The stories I had heard before of Switzerland being one of the most expensive countries in the world, led me to believe I would be declaring bankruptcy at the end of this trip.

Conclusion

Would i recommend a visit to Bern? I guess the best compliment I can pay it, is to say I would happily live there. One day was hardly enough time to give this beautiful city, and I suspect I’ll be back to dig deeper.

For travel tips and suggestions on how to save on your Swiss trip, venture over to my Saving Money in Switzerland blog.

Looking for ideas for day trips after Bern? Then look no further than Lauterbrunnen.

The magnificent Grindelwald was the highlight of our Swiss Alps trip. Read my travel guide here.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lockdowns are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and now protect domestic trips too.

If you enjoyed the blog, I would appreciate a share or a pin. Happy travels to those for whom Bern Switzerland awaits.

John

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Dublin to Kilkenny

Kilkenny city is just under two hours drive from Dublin. The 112 km route follows the M9 motorway for much of the way. That is of course if you choose to follow it. Road trips are always better on a country roads and so as soon as we hit County Carlow we obliged. This was of course by intent. Our road trip doesn’t begin in Kilkenny, but with one of the most enigmatic ruins in Ireland.

Ducketts Grove.

This 19th Century plantation house now unfortunately lies in ruins. Pre-1830 it was a modest house before William Duckett transformed it with towers, turrets and arches. In its day it surely ranked as one of the most stunning houses in Ireland. Perhaps in creating such a fantastical structure it also brought its own share of misfortune. The house is said to be haunted by a banshee, brought on by a piseog; a curse placed on the family and house. Staring at the ruin today, it’s not beyond the realms of possibility.

However it was deserted the day I was there, with no staff, no ghastly ghosts, and nowhere to enter. Tea rooms do open on the weekend. It’s nice to walk between the picturesque ruins and out into the gardens and grounds beyond. In late spring rapeseed fields in the vicinity make the scene all the more stunning. The emptiness does most certainly lend credence to the banshee story, and a distinct spookiness can be felt. Not a place I would be spending the night.

From here we travelled to the Brownshill Dolmen outside of Carlow. Dating from 4500 years ago, it has the largest capstone of any Dolmen in Europe, weighing in at over 100 tonnes.

Kilkenny Tourist Attractions

Arriving in Kilkenny, we did the best thing you can do with a car in a city. We parked it up for the night and checked in at the River Court Hotel. Located on the banks of the River Nore, the hotel easily lived up to its 4-star status. Our castle view suite was incredibly spacious with a large sitting room and excellent views over the river to the castle. A balcony overlooking that river finished a beautiful room.

Hungry we set off into the city centre. Our intention was to eat at the Kyteler’s Inn, which gives visitors the opportunity to bridge a reputation for good food with a historical pub. Serving since 1263, they have had time to get it right. It is named after Alice Kyteler who opened it, a local woman suspected of being a witch. She fled during her trial, leaving her daughter to burn at the stake. Now that’s what you call poor parenting. The food was great, we kept it simple with a soup and sandwich, and the service was full of local hospitality.

And on to the Kilkenny tourist attractions

With hunger no longer a distraction we then took to exploring the city. There is a considerable history to embrace. A town since the 13th century, it was granted city status in 1609. Parliament Street is lined by:

• Rothe House (a 3-storey 16th century merchants house complete with gardens and a beautiful arcaded front);
• Kilkenny Courthouse (which was built on the remains of Graces Castle from the 13th century, and has seen an evolution first to gaol and now to courthouse) and;
• Smithwicks Experience. Smithwicks is one of Irelands oldest breweries from 1710, but now comes under the Diageo umbrella. Never had a taste for it, so onwards we went to…

St Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower.

The cathedral is still the functioning pro-cathedral of the city, and so be wary of not arriving at mass times. Highlights outside include the exterior stone work and the buildings and graves of the close. Heading inside the medieval effigy stone tombs on the floor are unique, and there are some stained glass windows by famous Irish master of glass Harry Clarke. The tombs of the Butler family from Kilkenny Castle still rest within the cathedral. The cathedral was completed in 1285 but has seen much addition and change over the centuries.

Back outside the round tower is one of only 2 in Ireland that can still be climbed. It dates from 1111. As long as you don’t mind the 129 laddered steps or the dodgy opening at the top, this is one of the best Kilkenny tourist attractions. Good views lie in wait. €7 admission gets entry to the church and tower.

Medieval Mile Kilkenny

Returning via the Medieval Mile, we made brief stops to see the 13th Century Black Abbey, and the Tholsel, now serving as the Town Hall. Cherry blossoms at the rear of the Tholsel gave some lovely photos (when in season) and the new Medieval Mile Museum can be accessed from here. The museum is housed in the 800 year old St Mary’s Church, and contains artefacts from the 800 years of Kilkenny’s history.

The streets of Kilkenny are linked by small medieval alleyways, known as slips. The most picturesque of these is the Butter Slip, where butter vendors used to sell their produce from the 1600’s on. It now has some nice stores and restaurants, including Petronella named after the unfortunate daughter of Alice Kyteler.

These streets are still the craft centre of the town, with pottery, jewellery and paintings being made and sold here. It’s an ideal place to pick up something for those unfortunates working at home.

The Kilkenny tourist office is located in the Shee Alms house dating from 1582, a really beautiful Tudor building. It bears the unusual pointed stone roof of the era. It was built by a local businessman to house the poor at the time.

We enjoyed the luxury of our hotel room for the rest of the evening and after much debate dined that evening again in the Kytelers Inn. Steaks were ordered, and while I can’t share them with you, please take my word they were excellent.

Kilkenny Castle

We began the following day with a good breakfast in the Riverside Restaurant, as ever there’s nothing like a full Irish (or English or Scottish) to set up a full days exploring. Having saved Kilkenny’s main attraction till then, the might of Kilkenny Castle now awaited. Dominating the town from its position on the parade, the walk there really filled me with anticipation (severe castle addict here).

The castle was constructed in 1195 on the site of a Strongbow wooden castle, in particular to control an important bridging point on the river. Strongbow was one of the leaders of the Anglo-Norman invasion of Ireland. It was subsequently purchased by James Butler in 1391, and remained in the family’s possession until the 20th Century. The butler name interestingly probably refers to the person’s job at the time, but James Butler was the 3rd Earl of Ormond and it’s unknown how he earned his lofty position to be able to purchase the castle. The castle went through a lot of additions and changes throughout the centuries and these can be seen throughout the tour.

Tour of Kilkenny Castle

There is a rose garden to the front of the castle complete with a small fountain. Entry through the castle gates takes you into the courtyard. From here you can take the guided tour *. Tours take roughly an hour and entry is €8. The tour highlights include the period furnishings, the moorish staircase, and the various bedrooms. I loved the “courting couch” (I’m sure it had a different name), where the intended couple sat back to back, with a parent at each end. Cringeworthy!!!

The main focus of the tour is on the Long Gallery, built to house the Butler family’s art collection. It has a 19th century hammer-beam and glass roof. The designs on the cross beams are excellent, each one painted elaborately and with motifs of birds and animals. The room also has an elegant massive double fireplace, with carvings featuring episodes from the history of the castle.

The tour ends landing you in the tea room. Exiting outside the Kilkenny design centre is located in the stables, and there is a large green area worthy of a stroll, giving great views looking back at the castle.

*It is highly recomended you book tours online due to current covid restrictions on numbers.

County Kilkenny Tourist Attractions

No trip in Ireland is worth it without a drive in the country, so we headed for the car to leave Kilkenny city behind, and explore County Kilkenny.

Following the path of the River Nore south, we stumbled across some lovely villages.  Bennettsbridge and Thomastown are both built on the fertile bends of the river. Nice rapids can be seen on a walk over the bridge and down the village of Bennettsbridge, a town famous for its crafts.

Much more passive is the town of Thomastown further down road. Ruins line the banks of the river and its worth a stroll if you have time to abandon the car.

Jerpoint Abbey

3 km from Thomastown is the ruins of Jerpoint Abbey, a Cistercian Abbey from the 12th Century. With a €5 entry fee, you can tour freely around the site. While mostly in ruins, the main reason to stop is the cloisters. The engravings on the inside of the cloisters are mostly intact and are awesome. All feature a different image of figures from the abbey past. There are some detailed tombs dating from the Middle Ages also, and a visitor centre with an exhibition.

Kells Priory

Kells Priory is one of Ireland’s most spectacular medieval monuments, a huge Augustine Priory located about 15km south of Kilkenny. It sits on the banks of the Kings River, and is located in some large fields near the village of Kells. The site can be investigated fully, just park by the side of the road and get exploring. Spanning a large area it has the appearance of a walled town, due to the tower houses at intervals along the walls. There also a number of ruins within of churches. It’s location at the riverside is idyllic and peaceful too.

Spotted by chance while at the Priory, we drove through the village of Kells to the mills beyond at the riverside. Mullens Mills in Kells has a small tour and is also bestowed a beautiful location. We had a late lunch in the delicious kitchen there, called Jen’s. Finally, we headed up the road beside to find an unique thatched Cottage.

Other Kilkenny Tourist Attractions in the county

While our trip came to an end with the town of Kells, there is so much more to Kilkenny for you to include.

• Head to Kilfane to see the church, and also the Glen and Waterfall. A Norman effigy of a knight from the 13th century is found within the church yards. It was on my agenda but opening times of the waterfall (which is privately owned) are very limited, only within the summer months of July and August.
• Dunmore Cave in north Kilkenny, is a limestone cave etched in Irish history. In 928 AD Guthfrith of Ivar, surely one of Ireland’s more pleasant Viking invaders, massacred a thousand people here. Guided tours of the caves are available year round, for €5. Find out more about Dunmore Cave here.
• The pleasant village of Inistioge is entered by a ten arch bridge, and featured in movies such as Circle of Friends (who remembers that one?). Nearby are the formal walled Woodstock Gardens also, known as one of Ireland’s finest gardens.
• The Castlecomer Discovery Park is the perfect place to end the trip and appease those kids tired of all the culture and history. Featuring ziplines, a tree top walk, a climbing walls and a zillion other activities, they will certainly burn off all that excess energy.
• Should you decide to stay one more night, consider the Mount Juliet Estate in Thomastown. This 18th century manor house is the peak of 5 star luxury. With a michelin star restaurant and Jack Nicklaus designed golf course, it’s undoubtedly even better if you leave the kids at home.

Kilkenny as part of an Irish trip

Taking a road trip in Ireland is definitely one of my favourite ways to see the country. Perhaps some of my other trips may inspire you.

The Causeway Coast of Northern Ireland.

Killarney and the Ring of Kerry.

Making Dublin to Cork a road trip

Would you consider adding Kilkenny to your next Irish trip? Have you already visited and what were your impressions? Let me know in the comments below.