Longford surprised me. Having grown up here, taking a trip to a place of interest usually involved a spin down the road to another county, particularly one bordering an ocean or sea. Tourists in Longford usually consisted of a few anglers trying their luck on the counties rivers.

Longford has come a long way as a tourist county over the last few years. Previously it was a string of market towns servicing the local population. No more! With the advent of the Failte Ireland initiative, Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands, (focusing on the then unfashionable counties that border the River Shannon), and the opening of Center Parcs Longford Forest, the county has seen a significant growth in tourist facilities.

Now the county numbers several attractions charting its history, one of the best greenways in the country, and an unrivalled family resort. It also has one of Ireland’s greatest Iron Age mysteries in the trackway at Corlea Bog.

Longford is best seen on wheels, either on two or four. North Longford by car and South Longford by bike. With a solid recommendation on how to see the county coming from the team from Longford Tourism, we spent 3 full days in the county, first viewing the history and natural walks of the north county, then exploring its many towns, before taking to the Royal Canal greenway. We left more than impressed with the many things to do in Longford.

We travelled to Longford at the invitation of Longford Tourism, for a three day FAM trip. While much of what we visited was sponsored, all views expressed are my own. I would like to thank Tara, Dympna and Denise for their kind assistance in organising the trip, and also all the business owners for their warm welcome, time, energy and hard work. For a full guide to the county visit the site www.Longford.ie

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

EZxploring maps- an interesting way to see the best things in Longford

Seeing Longford is made all the more easier by picking up the free EZxploring maps from local libraries or heritage centres. The maps contain a plethora of info on each towns architecture and history. They are also really interactive so kids will love them too and learn of heritage along the way. Not just kids might I add. At present there are EZxploring maps of Longford, Ballymahon, Edgeworthstown, Granard, Lanesborough, Ardagh and of the Royal Canal Greenway.

Things to do in Longford – Day One – North Longford Road Trip

As you hit Longford, and assuming you are coming from a Dublin direction the first town you’ll meet (or bypass if you follow the road- DON’T do that) is Edgeworthstown. Home to a museum dedicated to its most famous citizens, there’s actually quite a lot to this rare spoken of town. From there, our road trip moves north to Granard. The Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre is the most fun you’ll have in the county, and that includes the pubs. Learn all about its Norman history and get introduced to Longford’s part in the failed 1798 rebellion.

After appreciating nature on some of North Longford’s walks, we learn more of the rebellion in the town of Ballinamuck, the site of a major battle in 1798, before travelling back towards Longford town. GPS is a must for some of these locations as they can otherwise be hard to find. Even for a local.

Edgworthstown

Edgeworthstown is about 90 minutes from Dublin, on the N4 heading west. The town’s history is centred around the Edgeworth family, the extremely fair landlords who resided in a nearby manor house. The town grew with their help and their impact can be seen right across the town. There is street parking throughout the town for €1 per hour, and it’s important to display your ticket on the dash.

Maria Edgeworth Centre

Located in the old school on Ballymahon Road, is a museum dedicated to Maria Edgeworth. Maria Edgeworth for those who don’t know, was a leading Irish literary writer in the early 19th century. Her most noted works are Castle Rackrent, Ennui , The Absentee, and Ormond. Her works sadly haven’t received the same modern attention as some of her peers, but during her life she was revered as one of the finest minds around and was a regular confident of some of Britain’s and Ireland’s top economists and novelists.

As well as being a writer, she was a strong educational campaigner, striving to upgrade the rote learning system, and seeking education for all in Ireland irrespective of religion or class.

Her extended family too were most certainly of note. The museum weaves a story that includes the relation who administered last rites to Louis XVI, her father Richard who was a politician, writer and inventor, and her various connections with high class society at the time.

It certainly taught me quite a few things about my local history. An audio guide is offered to take you through the full story of this very intriguing family, with a wall full of portraits introducing us to the various players. Entry to the Maria Edgeworth Centre is €5.

You can pick up the EZxploring maps and an audio guide of Edgeworthstown from the centre before venturing out to explore the town.

Granard

Granard has been the location of a settlement since the year 236 AD, and has a significant history going back through the centuries. Irish tribes used it for its dominant position atop a hill. They weren’t very welcoming of St Patrick when he came calling. Queen Maebh is said to have stopped here with her army in the Tain. When the Normans came, Richard de Tuite built a motte atop a hill here in the 13th century, which at 166 metres above sea level, is the highest in the country.

Granard is about 11 kilometres from Edgeworthstown on the N55. Parking is at the Knights and Conquests heritage centre, which is our excellent first stop before we explore the town.

Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre- Where history and fun collide

Knights and Conquests is a relatively new attraction in the county, and charts the Norman history of Granard and their successful invasion of Ireland in the 12th century. The visitor centre lies below the Motte on Granard’s outskirts. While anticipating the visitor centre to be educational (the town has quite the history, from the Norman’s, the 1798 rebellion, and the links to Michael Collins), we really weren’t expecting just how fun it was going to be. Undoubtedly the most fun thing to in Longford.

Run by Bartle and Deirdre, two of the most enthusiastic tour guides we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting, Knights and Conquests is a hoot. It’s interactive throughout, from donning shields, swords, chain mail and helmets as a Norman, to swinging swords and being used as target practice for Bartle’s crossbow skills. It totally puts you in the mind of the Norman warrior of the day and made all the better by the hosts great sense of humour.

It’s informative of course too, with a video and plenty of exhibitions on the Norman invasion, way of life, and all that followed in the centuries after. A room is dedicated to Kitty Kiernan one of Granard’s famous citizens. She was the beau of Michael Collins, and their story is one of Ireland’s most tragic love stories. The interpretative centre has some uniforms of the style used by Collins during the Irish Civil War, so of course we had to try those on too.

Lastly I was dressed in pantaloons and the attire of a rebel from the 1798 rebellion, who fought in Granard and were cruelly executed at the nearby Motte.  So perhaps I looked a little ridiculous but I’m always up for that. We love interactive exhibits like this. They are some of our favourite tours and Knights and Conquests easily joins the list of the best we’ve been to. 

They have some amazing plans to expand and build a Norman village on the site, with a working mill and much more. I’ll be watching that development closely and returning.

Better yet all this fun only costs €6 for an adult, and €4 for kids. That’s about 10 cents a laugh by my calculation. Great value. they also open 7 days a week for tours. Visit the Knights and Conquests website here.

Derrycassin Woods walking trails

The first of the walks of North Longford, this woodland area has a number of trails. At one time this was the location of Derrycassan House and the estate of the Dopping-Hepenstal family. The manor house has since disappeared but there are still traces of the walled gardens. Throughout there are a number of trails, none more than about 3km long. They can be linked to appreciate the old estate and the views of the nearby Lough Gowna. In spring the woods are alive with colours of bluebells and rhododendrons.

The woods are located between Granard and Aughnacliffe near Dring. Speaking of Dring, there is a stunning fishing pier here overlooking Lough Gowna. It’s the perfect place for a picnic, though there is no protection near the waters edge if kids are in tow.

Aughnacliffe

Aughnacliffe is a small village on our route, but it’s not without its charms. On approach from Dring keep an eye out for the sign for Pulliness waterfall. There’s a short walk down to the waterfall and though small, it’s pleasant.

A few hundred metres further along the road a small sign will point you to the 5000 year old Aughnacliffe Portal Dolmen. In the case of both this and the waterfall there is no parking, so park roadside, taking care not to block entrances to houses. The dolmen is a little harder to get too, as it’s through two fields.

Proceed through the first field to find a gateway in the far right corner and within the next field you will find the portal Dolmen. They may or may not have livestock, so don’t bring a dog as this can unsettle them. Take care around animals especially cattle. That’s no bull. The Dolmen is right in the middle of a field, and is fully intact, with two capstones. One is almost three metres in length, making it the third biggest in Ireland.

Just off the heart of the village it the beautiful lakeside Leebeen park, complete with children’s playground, and an imaginative fairy garden. A walkway follows the small lake nearby too making this a lovely stop, especially with kids.

Ballinamuck

Ballinamuck is located 11 km from Aughnacliffe and was the scene of the Battle of Ballinamuck on 8th September 1798. An Irish backed French force under General Humbert had been victorious in the battle of Castlebar, in County Mayo. As they moved across the country they were pursued by two huge British armies under Lord Cornwallis and General Lake. Finally they made a stand in Ballinamuck. The battle lasted less than an hour, and was a disaster for the rebels. While the British suffered 12 losses, some 500 Irish and French lay dead. The remaining French surrendered, but the Irish rebels were given no quarter. The remaining were followed to the bog and bayoneted.

There is a memorial and a visitor centre dedicated to the fateful events of that day, within the village. The visitor centre recounts the details of that day. A statue of a pikeman (a pike was the only weapon the Irish had), shows how ill-equipped the Irish were against the heavily armed British.

Entry to the visitor centre a the moment is only by self guided tour. The key is available from Dillon’s Pub across the road.

Edenmore Bog walk

Just outside of the village is the Edenmore bog walk. Ireland has over 50 % of the raised bogland in Europe, and while it traditionally was harvested as a fuel for homes, there has been a growing movement away from fossil fuels, and bogs are being conserved. This is excellent news for the visitor as bogs are full on unique flora and fauna that only grow and live in these unusual conditions.

The Edenmore bog is no exception. A 4.5 km circular walk follows a solid trail underfoot and loops back to the small car park. It’s all signposted within so no fear of being lost in the bog. Wildlife is in abundance with a possibility of seeing Pine Martens at dawn and dusk, and birds such as Stonechats, Skylarks, Meadow Pipits, and Willow warblers. Butterflies and Dragonflies prance around the area. There are fascinating plants too, such as Sundew and Bladderwort that feed on insects.

It’s great to see an alternative use to Ireland’s boglands and them used as a local and tourist amenity. The have a close tie to our history and some of our most intact discoveries have been made in boglands. Very recently a full suit of Norman chainmail was found near Granard. The bog bodies found in Ireland is perhaps the most ghoulish and fascinating display in Dublin’s National History Museum. One wonders what else lies undiscovered under all that peat.

What other things are there to do in North Longford

The final leg of our best of North Longford driving tour took us through the village of Ennybegs. Notable is the small white parish church, but it’s the James Farrell Titanic memorial garden opposite that brought us here. James Farrell grew up here, before seeking a new life on the ill fated ships voyage.

Farrell is remembered for his heroics aboard the ship, where he pleaded for the lives of some female companions when they were blocked from reaching the lifeboats. After been left through he accompanied them to the boats where he watched them escape to safety. His body was found 8 days later. It’s an heroic story worth reading at the memorial. It was also told in the 1958 movie, A Night to Remember.

Our resting spot for the night would be the town of Drumlish, and the shepherds huts at Bramblewick House. More on this wonderful glamping site later. But first we spun by Drumlish Mill, a corn mill built in 1854, and a beautiful feature of the town. Sadly it can’t be visited, but it can most certainly be admired.

Corn Hill Walking Trail

Visiting in summer, there was the prospect of a late sunset, so we aimed for one more walk, and the hope of watching the sun set over the Irish midlands from Longford’s highest point. As is often the case in Ireland, clouds had a different idea. But that doesn’t take away from the walk.

Corn Hill at 278 metres is the third smallest high point of Ireland’s counties. But with no other hills of note in the county it does have prominence. A recent addition is the 3 km loop trail from a newly installed car park. The walk does have steep parts and most of it is over dirt track, but it is certainly classified as easy. The best views are north in the initial ascent, but the furthest point, facing west, is where we had hoped to catch the sunset. A number of picnic benches are installed here to take in the phenomenon.

At the top of corn hill are two cairns, from which it gets its name. Dating back around 5000 years, one has sustained damage. They are heavily linked to Irish mythology, including the story of the Tain, and an ancient witch known as Cailleach a Bheara.

Longford Town, Ardagh & Lough Ree- Day Two in Longford

Things to do in Longford Town

Longford town is the county town of Longford, and at first glance seems little more. But a deeper look brings it’s historical past to the fore. At its heart is St Mel’s Cathedral, easily the most standout building in the town, and one of Ireland’s finest cathedrals. A walk through the town will also highlight its military and industrial past.

Longford’s history is closely linked to the O’Farrell clan who were the rulers of Annaly, the old name for the area. They ruled the area from the 11th through the 17th century, at which point in 1621, Francis Aungier (who had been the commissioner of the plantations of Munster) was made 1st Baron of Longford.

Thus began the history of Longford Town. To protect the new lands, a castle was built in the town in 1627 in the area which is now Connolly Barracks, on the site of an old O’Farrell fort. The castle was eventually converted to a manor house, and the title of Lord Longford passed to the Pakenham family. Their descendants still live to this day in Tullynally castle in Westmeath.

Sadly the castle was demolished in 1972 after falling into ruin. As the town grew so did its military significance. The barracks was established in the 1700’s by the ruling British empire, one of many throughout the country. Longford continued its development as a market and industrial town throughout the 18th to 20th centuries. Much of the towns main buildings were built in the 19th century such as the market square, court house, and banks.

What to do in Longford- take the Longford Town audio tour

To fully appreciate the town equip yourself with an EZxploring map and the new Longford Town Audio Tour, which is available from the town library or tourism office. Priced at €5 it’s an invaluable companion as you follow the towns streets and the Camlin river. It takes in everything you could hope to see in Longford and much more that even I was oblivious to. The library is located in Longford Town Centre and the tourism office in the market square. Both contain ample paid parking.

St Mel’s Cathedral

St Mel’s Cathedral is the Roman Catholic cathedral for the diocese of Ardagh and Clonmacnoise. It was constructed between 1840 and 1856, though this was disrupted by the Great Famine. Neo-Classical in style it is defined by its large limestone columns and high belfry. It stands tall above all other buildings in town, and is a must visit. The modern interior contains a pair of Harry Clarke stained glass windows, an Italian organ by Fratelli Ruffatti, and stained glass windows designed by Kim en Joong, a Dominican priest.

St Mel’s Cathedral is Longford’s own Notre Dame story. Gutted by fire in 2009, it received an overwhelming show of public support and funding. Following a restoration costing €30 million it reopened in 2014. Thankfully the Harry Clarke windows in the transepts survived, but relics such as the St Mel’s Crozier that were in the museum below were lost. The new cathedral is a must visit owing to its attractive interior and as a testament to the will of the people to restore a building of much local pride.

Ardagh Village

Ardagh is the jewel in Longford’s crown. The village is a joy to walk through, past Tudor-Gothic cottages and old churches, with only the occasional car and the song of birds to break the silence. It’s located 10 km from Longford (again use that GPS).

Ardagh has the most significant history of all of Longford too. In pre-Christian times the nearby Ardagh Mountain was revered on a par with locations such as the Hill of Tara, Bru na Boinne, or Rath Cruachan in Roscommon. The ancient tale of Etain and Midir was associated with Bri Leith, the ancient name of the mountain. With the coming of St Patrick, he deemed it important enough to establish a church, and his disciple St Mel, founded one in the location of the present day Ardagh village. A church would always be on this site and to this day an 11th century ruin still stands.

The village as we see it today is as a result of the Fetherston family who settled here in 1745 and built the huge and impressive Ardagh House. It can sadly only be admired from afar. Though it was them who commissioned the development of the estate village, which is said to have been based on a Swiss model. I’m not surprised, though it does bear a resemblance to some of the UK’s finest. At the heart of the village is a triangle with an ornate clock tower, and protestant church flanking on two sides. Ardagh is also heavily linked to Oliver Goldsmith, one of the regions greatest writers.

Just don’t take my word for it on how beautiful Ardagh is. It has won Ireland’s tidiest village on three occasions and numerous European awards. Few locations in Ireland possess as much charm.

Lanesborough and Lough Ree

Lanesborough is Longford’s main town on the River Shannon, Ireland’s longest river which flows for 360 kilometres. Lanesborough is a 19th century town, though it has been an important crossing point of the River Shannon for centuries. The first bridge was built here 300 years ago, and was the first crossing of the river north of Athlone. Nowadays it is a 6 arch structure, and the rivers banks have some of Longford’s finest scenery.

Lough Ree Access For All boat trip

We travelled to lanesborough to take a boat trip on the Shannon with Lough Ree access for all. This company is one of a kind in Ireland and the UK. Their specially commissioned boat was designed and built to accommodate wheelchairs. Run as a registered charity it’s fantastic that they give the disabled the chance to do something which was never before possible. The trip is a relaxing cruise up the river, taking in Lanesborough harbour and the green forested banks, in the company of the very hospitable driver and tour guide. Though the weather wasn’t great for our trip, the boat is fully covered and is adept for all conditions.

Only opened in 2020, Access for All was the brainchild of Alan Broderick and Ciaran Mullooly. It took 5 years to fundraise the €200,000 needed to build the boat. They have received an amazing response on the national level and their good work is widely recognised.

In addition to the one and a half hour boat trips, they also offer three hour fishing trips on the river. Fish commonly caught here include Perch, Roach and especially Pike who can be up 9 kg in size. You can book your trip with Lough Ree Access For All here.

After spending the day soaking up all that lakeside air, stay the night in Longford town, and the luxurious Viewmount House. Take in a show at the Backstage Theatre if you can.

Royal Canal Greenway- Day 3 of the best things to do in Longford

Longford’s newest attraction will also possibly become its biggest. It’s one that has been there a long time but finally getting the focus it needs. The Royal Canal was a project started in 1790, but took 27 years to complete, costing a huge £1.4 million. The heyday of canals was slowly coming to an end at this time with rail on the horizon. By 1880 the canal was no longer used and fell into disrepair for over a century. In the modern era it is the towpaths that are getting all the attention.

In 2021 the culmination of planning came to fruition and Ireland’s newest greenway the Royal Canal Greenway was opened. At 130 km it is Ireland’s longest, and the route spans from Cloondara in Longford to Maynooth in Kildare. An excellent facility for lovers of outdoors, it’s path is along a non vehicular traffic route, and suits both cyclists and walkers. Plenty of local wildlife can be seen by the canal side too.

The Longford stretch of the Greenway passes picnic sites, coffee huts, ruins, locks, and some really interesting towns and villages. A branch of the canal can be used to cycle to Longford town too. Unmissable are Keenagh, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule.

Along the route you’ll come across bronze shoes. These are from the National Famine Way trail which commemorates the 1490 people that walked this way in 1847, starving and in seek of a new life. Half perished on the journey and these bronze shoes are a poignant tribute to them and their hardships.

Midlands Cycle Hub Bike Hire – Cloondara

Our introduction to the Royal Canal Greenway was in the small village of Cloondara, via the Midlands Cycle Hub. Run by Robert Crilly, he only set up the business in early 2021, but it is already a roaring success. The hub have a variety of bikes from hybrid bikes, and mountain bikes to children’s bikes. Bikes can be delivered to and dropped off at a number of locations including Longford, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule, which is ideal for only cycling one way on the greenway. In addition, cycling tours can be arranged to suit different experience levels. Contact Midlands Cycle Hub to book yours.

Cloondara was the perfect place to begin. As the starting point of the Greenway, it’s where the canal meets an entry point to the River Shannon, and there is a beautiful harbour. Old mills nearby, have been preserved and converted into apartments, keeping the charms of the village. The bikes we got were excellent, putting to shame those that we have at home. We were pleasantly surprised how nice the greenway was to cycle on, at all times safe, peaceful and with green scenery around every gentle turn.

Before booking we had also arranged to get a picnic basket from the Richmond Inn. This is put together by the really pleasant Niamh, and they have a number of options to suit your budget. It’s fully recommended too as there are lots of beautiful picnic spots strewn along the route of the canal. Alternatively stop in at one of the coffee trailers or cafes at the various locks.

Keenagh

It’s 14 kilometres from Cloondara, to the first notable stop off the Greenway, Keenagh. The small village has Longford’s most important historical discovery, the Corlea Trackway. Besides that there are a number of ruins and structures all related to Mosstown House, an estate house of the Kingston family of the area. Those hungry after the cycle can check our Macs Shack in the centre.

The clock tower in Keenagh is an intriguing structure, built in honour of Laurence King-Harman, a local landlord who was considered fair and just. It dates from 1878.

Spare a few pedals for Mosstown Dovecote. It’s not easy to find this pigeon house, on a laneway not far from Mosstown Harbour on the canal, but it was once associated with Mosstown House which stood here. The three storey structure dates from 1750. Interesting that the pigeon house has outlasted the human house!

Corlea Trackway – the best thing to do in Longford for those with an interest in old Irish history

Keenagh’s and Longford’s finest archaeological site, was found in bogland a few kilometres outside the village. Dated at 147 BC it is the largest trackway of its kind to be found in Europe. Discovered in 1984, the Corlea Trackway is an Iron Age bog road that would have stretched for 1 kilometre over the surface of the bog allowing people and animals to cross. It was built using over 300 oak trees, that were expertly carved to link together and form a passable road. The huge effort in doing this suggests a massive public works scheme of its time, and gives evidence that it must have been carried out by someone of great importance.

However it can only be speculated as to the who, the why, or even the where to. The exact details of the trackway remain a mystery. Was it connecting some of Ireland’s great sites in the Hill of Tara, Hill of Uisneach and Rathcroghan? Was there something even greater, undiscovered at its end point? Was it built by Doc Brown so that his Delorean could build up enough speed to return after a disastrous attempt to time travel to the 60’s? No one will ever quite know. The closest clue comes in Irish mythology and the story the Wooing of Etain, where a king sets Midir a task of building a road in a bog where none other was.

All hope of some other clue in history was lost when the road succumbed to the bog and sank below the surface probably a decade after it was built. It lay there for two millennia waiting to be discovered.

The Corlea Trackway has an interesting visitor centre, complete with a video experience in an auditorium and lots of info on the country at that time and the building of the trackway. Then we get to see it in all its glory. A whole room is dedicated to the 18 metres stretch of trackway, preserving it in the exact location where it was found. It really gets the mind working as you gaze upon it.

Entry to the Corlea Trackway visitor centre is free.

There’s one more experience to be had here, in the walking trails surrounding. With trails stretching from 3 km to 7 km, there’s a lot of bog to see. Better still the trails are in great condition, so they can be cycled too. It’s an incredibly scenic bogs, with areas of wetlands, and some rather intriguing petrified trees. Wildlife was in abundance too and we spotted common lizards, as well as a huge population of butterflies and dragonflies. The inner macro photographer on me was immensely satisfied.

Ballymahon

A further 9 kilometers along the Greenway is the lively town of Ballymahon. The town has experienced good fortunes of late with the opening of the nearby Centre Parcs, and with it new restaurants and cafes have sprung up. Making it a good stop for the weary cyclist. On the approach from the Greenway there is some noteworthy street art by local artist Phil Atkinson. Ballymahon has some of Ireland’s widest streets which lends to the safety of cycling there.

Ballymahon is famed as the birth home of writer and one of Longford’s favourite sons, Oliver Goldsmith who was born in 1728 in the nearby Pallas (the house no longer exists but a monument to Goldsmith does). It’s found down some narrow country lanes though, so far from safe for cycling. Easier to find is the tribute to him on the banks of the River Inny, including a quote from the Deserted Village, one of his most popular works.

The River Inny is a popular place and hosts Inny kayaking, which we hope to return to do when they reopen after Covid. Also just outside the town is Newcastle Wood, a forest with long trails. Again, this was one walk to far for us on this trip, as was a visit to the forests popular attraction Center Parcs. Another three days in Longford please.

Abbeyshrule

Abbeyshrule is again 9 km from Ballymahon and is another of Longford’s charming village and a former recipient of Ireland’s tidiest village. Flanked on one side by the canal and on the other by River Inny, the village is defined by the bridges around it, and the impressive Whitworth Aqueduct which carries the canal over the Inny, via a five arch bridge. There are lovely walks from the village too, along the banks of the Inny.

However there is more to Abbeyshrule. The ruins of a 13th century Cistercian monastery are found on the village edge and worthy of exploring. For those with an adventurous edge, you can take to the sky at Abbeyshrule Aerodrome, where two flying clubs are based. Amateurs and professionals are welcome.

If you are a little more grounded, then perhaps Fiona Egan’s Cookery School is more to your taste. Using fresh home grown ingredients from the family farm, the cookery school approaches delicious cooking from a fun perspective and welcomes both adults and kids. Unfortunately we didn’t get to better our culinary skills due to Covid limitations.

Abbeyshrule is the last drop off location for bikes from the Midland Cycle Hub, and for those looking to spend the night, the food at the Rustic Inn and welcome at the Abbeyview House B&B are excellent.

Note there is no public transport links from Abbeyshrule, but there is a bus route (number 466, running twice daily) from Ballymahon to Longford.

Center Parcs Longford Forest

I’ve left the biggest perhaps the biggest draw for families the country over to Longford till last. The exclusive resort situated in over 400 acres of woodland can accommodate up to 2500 people 466 self-catering lodges and 30 apartments. The park boasts Ireland’s largest indoor waterpark, and hundreds of outdoor and indoor activities. There are a host of restaurants and cafes too. For those of a more mature mindset, the Aqua Sana Spa offers a range of treatments. Exactly where I would like to find myself after a day on the ziplines and waterpark. 3, 4 or 7 night says ca be booked direct with Center Parcs Longford Forest.

Transport to Longford

Longford is well serviced by both road and public transport links. By road, the N4 and M4 connect it to Dublin and Sligo, the N5 to Knock and Westport, with the N55 and A3 connecting to Belfast. Galway, and the west of Ireland is linked via the M6 and N55 which connects to Ballymahon.

The Dublin- Sligo train from Dublin Connolly station takes around 1 hour and 50 minutes, while bus routes 22 and 23 travel via Longford on their way to Sligo and Ballina respectively.

Ideally to see Longford’s attractions which are scattered throughout the county, a car is our recommended mode of travel.

Where to Stay in County Longford

Viewmount House – The finest hotel in Longford

Built in 1620 this Manor House played an important role in the history of Longford. The Baron of Longford, Lord Francis Xavier made it his home after being awarded his title. The house in its present day Georgian style was redesigned by Thomas Pakenham in the mid 1700s. A man with a good eye. After a few centuries as a school, and as a private home of a gardener and farm, the boutique hotel as we see it now emerged.

Trading for the last 30 years the hotel is the finest in the county. Each unique room is full of antiques and original pieces of art, all collected by the owners over the years. The many sitting rooms and library are akin to a museum. To walk through the hotel doors is as if to walk 100 years back in time. Modern conveniences are provided of course but subtlety.

We stayed in room 26, and were gobsmacked. The rooms take their names from the old families of Longford. The suites are dedicated to the Pakenhams, with ours called the Cuffe Suite. Spread across 2 floors, our suite was amazing. The upper was the bedroom while the lower was a huge spacious sitting room.

We marvelled at the intricate detail of the Victorian changing screen that filled one corner of the bedroom. It’s one of the many ornaments and works of art that decorated the room. But above all the room is comfortable, from the large king size bed to the couches below it. The bathroom features a jacuzzi bath to relax in, and I duly obliged to sink into that.

The gardens surrounding the house transport you into another time too, one where the houses 19th century residents used as a place of relaxation and solace. Statues and sculptures are dotted throughout including a magnificent pair of lions that guard its castellated gate. A rich variety of plants and shrubs fill the flower beds. A personal favourite was the water lilies in the pond.

Viewmount houses appeal extended beyond its furnishings. Breakfast is served in the Georgian dining room. The fantastic menu includes the expectant full Irish, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, and for those looking for something with a pinch of Longford tradition in it, the boxty benedict. Smoked bacon, poached eggs and tomato are served with boxty, a potato pancake that is indigenous to the Irish midlands.

Where Viewmount House really comes into its own is for dinner. Renowned as the best restaurant in Longford, it has also won awards as the best in the province of Leinster. No mean feat considering that includes Dublin. The lunch menu includes sea bass, lamb shoulder and the 48 hour roasted featherblade of beef, which is to die for. Dishes such as monkfish, quail, grilled scallop and pork belly are found on the dinner menu.

It’s worth coming to Longford merely for the experience of dining and staying at Viewmount House. A true hidden gem. Book your stay direct at Viewmount House.

Bramblewick House

Our first night in Longford was spent glamping in the grounds of Bramblewick House. If you are looking for an alternative place to stay in Longford, look no further.  The glamping experience comes in the form of Shepherds Huts, that have a level of comfort that even the most hotel loyal traveller (that’s us) will enjoy. 

Bramblewick House is run by Amy, and as well as the two glamping huts, she runs a handmade craft business from home selling soap, candles, crotchet, wooden boxes and notebooks. It all adds to the authentic atmosphere and Amy is a delight, welcoming us into her home to see her crafts. At the moment they are adding a craft workshop to allow her to expand the business.  

Originally from the UK, she moved to the area 5 years ago and started to pursue her dream. Speaking of the area, the house is found up a narrow lane near the town of Drumlish. It’s quite the peaceful setting. 

The two huts have different themes, with ours called the chicken hut. Chickens are a constant theme throughout, and the place is full of little touches all making it warm and cosy. From the outside they seem small, but is instead Tardis like. A double bed, kitchen, and full bathroom all fit together in a perfect layout inside. Hot water and cooking is provided by gas. 

There’s more! Each hut has its owned seated area, and the gardens have a BBQ area to enjoy a few beers around. The gardens are worthy of exploring and contain some whimsical statues. Though it’s best not to stray to the bees at the end. 

You’ll have to bring your own food as with all glamping, but there’s a large supermarket in the nearby Drumlish. Alternatively, Longford is only ten minutes drive away so you can always grab an Indian from Spice India like we did. Then relax the night away in perfect rural surroundings. Book your stay at Bramblewick House here. 

AbbeyView House

The last stop of the Longford section of the Royal Canal Greenway is Abbeyshrule, and there is truly nowhere better to stay than Abbeyview House. There is a real genuine and warm welcome from Susan and her family who live in at this beautiful B&B. 

The house itself was built in 1830 or thereabouts and is possibly the combination of two different houses. It’s history traces back to a mill owner who converted it into the large building it is now. After passing through various hands it served as a police barracks for 50 years. The owners bought it 7 years ago and converted into B&B in 2019. 

It has a real feel of an authentic country house of the time. High ceilings, fireplaces, art, and grandfather clocks add to that air. Our room was up two flights of stairs, and was once the bedroom of the master of the house. The large room was adjoined by his changing room, where servants would change and wash him. 

Great care has been taken to keep the room as it might have been, with panelled walls, art, and floral tiles. Of course the modern conveniences such as showers have been added. A freestanding bath is the centerpiece of the room though. For anyone who has spent a long day on the Greenway, this is Mecca. No better way to soak those tired limbs. 

Of course a B&B is only as good as the second B there, and Abbeyview House serves up an excellent one. The spread on the table is classical, with fine porcelain and good variety. We settled for the full Irish, and the huge breakfast set us right up for a day of travelling. 

Abbeyview house have plans to add glamping to their services over the next year, as numbers on the Greenway are steadily increasing.  

Where to Eat and Drink in County Longford

Resturants

Vocellas 

Vocellas represents a good option in Longford for those looking for a more European cuisine. Located on Main street, their menu is mainly Mediterranean with distinct Italian and Spanish influences. They provide both indoor and outdoor dining at the moment. Service was very pleasant and the food was delicious in particular the calamari starter. Items such as Bolognese, carbonara, and penne all’arrabbiata are complemented by burgers and steaks.

Viewmount House

I’ve already sold the merits of dining in Viewmount House, in that it is undoubtedly the finest restaurant in the county. An experience worth having. See more in the Viewmount House section above.

Spice India 

Spice India, found on Ballymahon Street Longford, is part of a chain with branches across the midlands. Spice India has won the best World Cuisine award for Leinster on in 2 of the last 4 years. Of the two restaurants Spice India is more traditional with only a few Thai dishes straying into the menu. We only tried the Korma, which was creamy and full of flavour. I’ll be back.

Bars and Bar Food

Valentines 

Valentines on Main Street is, and has been the centre of nightlife in Longford for several decades now. They don’t serve food, instead focus on their liquid output. It’s the perfect place to try one of the craft beers from the local St Mels Brewery.

The Rustic Inn 

The village of Abbeyshrule is dominated by The Rustic Inn, a fine gastro pub. With a roaring hearth to warm you in winter, and lots of outdoor seating it’s equipped for all seasons. The food is hearty too as one would expect. Irish and European is the theme, so BBQ chicken wings, deep fried brie, salmon, plaice and several steaks are featured. The steaks featured on our plates too. The Irish Hereford fillet was huge cooked perfect, and was extraordinarily good value. Unfortunately it left no space for dessert.

Cafes and Bakeries

The Wooden Spoon 

This colourful café sits in the heart of Lanesborough and beckoned us in after our boat trip. They offer a menu that is extraordinary value for money, but with huge portions and packing plenty of taste. Trust me, we didn’t complain. The burgers came fully loaded with chips, salad and onion rings on the plate. Irish and European staples again fill the menu, proving they are very popular with the locals here.

O’Hehirs Bakery and Café 

A great stop for those who like their lunches fast and baked like I do. The bakery sells a good selection of baked goods, while the café has sandwiches, sausage rolls and other warm tasties. Don’t leave town without picking up one of their Apple pies, they are as good as any I’ve ever tasted.  

Red Rose Cafe 

With over 20 years presence on Longford’s Dublin Street, the Red Rose Café has consistently been serving traditional and comforting food to the town. The interior is warm and snug and bright art greets you at the entrance. The menu won’t surprise with offerings such as all day breakfast, turkey and ham, salmon and burgers, but sometimes that’s just what you need. A firm favourite of my mum and dad. Excellent value too.

30 Flavours of Portugal. 

A recent opening in town, this bakery is found next to Aldi, so if your picking up provisions it’s definitely worth nipping into. The baked goods are baked by a Portuguese native, so you can guarantee the pastel de natas are done the right way. They are delicious and cheap as chips too.

From cultural and historical experiences, good dining, to a whole host of outdoor walking and cycling routes, there is no shortage of things to enjoy in Longford. It is certainly a county where tourism is on the rise.

Planning a trip to Longford? Save a pin for future reference.

Who is Ollie?

Ollie’s Tours are not surprisingly run by a local lad called Ollie. He hails from Ennis, the county town of Clare (which incidentaly he gives guided tours of also). He didn’t learn the art of guided touring in this somewhat remote county though; that he learned in Germany, after spending all his backpacking money on a week of partying at Octoberfest in Munich. Or rather he learned it subsequently, after becoming a tour guide of some of Bavaria’s best known tourist attractions such as Neuschwanstein Castle.

After some years of “learning from the best” as he puts it, Ollie returned home to his beloved Clare, to put his craft to work. He set up Ollie’s Tours, and since then the tour offerings have expanded from that original tour of Ennis. More on those other tours later.

*We were invited by Ollie’s Tours to take a complimentary tour of our choice. Ollie’s most popular tour is certainly the walking tour of the Cliffs of Moher, but we opted for the Doolin food tour, a lively village that we were keen to spend more time in and get to know. While this was a colloboration, all opinions expressed here are my own.*

Small Group Doolin Food Tour – The best tour in County Clare

Food tours are built on the concept of showcasing good food from multiple outlets. However the Doolin Food Tour goes one step further, by introducing some of the good local characters into the mix. Carefully chosen not only for their quality local food offerings but also for their personality, Ollie is on to a winner here. So not only do we get the light-hearted and witty Ollie, we also have the pleasure of meeting some engaging business owners and managers en route. With Doolin being a coastal village, it will come as no surprise that the food tour pays homage to the fruits of the sea, and is heavily sea food based. Being Irish there’s a few tipples had too.

It's important to note that the food tour does take you away from Doolin for part of the tour, to the nearby town of Lisdoonvarna. There is a beer tasting at this stop, and you will need your own transport to get there. Alternatively you can get in touch with Ollie in advance, and he can help you with the hire of a mini bus. 

We meet Ollie at the Fiddle and Bow Hotel in Doolin. There’s plenty of parking here, and it’s cool to leave the car here for the afternoon if you are carpooling or have arranged transport. You’ll be back before the end of the tour.

Smoked Salmon at the Burren Smokehouse

Our first stop on the Doolin food tour is in fact Lisdoonvarna. Perhaps you are familiar with the place for the catchy song by Irish artist Christy Moore. It’s going through my head right now as I write this. Lisdoonvarna is also famous for its long running matchmaking festival, though we can’t guarantee that’s going to happen on this tour. What is definitely guaranteed is you’ll try some of the best smoked salmon going. Ireland is well known for having some of the finest organic smoked salmon found anywhere, and in the Burren Smokehouse, Ollie has found possibly Ireland’s best on his doorstep.

This wouldn’t be my first time visiting the Burren Smokehouse (or eating their salmon). The visit begins in the Salmon experience, a multimedia exhibition on how salmon is farmed in Ireland, and on the ancient tale of the salmon of knowledge. I’ll let Ireland’s Myths and Legends tell those interested that story.

We then meet Birgitta Curtin, who set up the smokehouse with her husband peter Curtin come 32 years ago. Taking her knowledge of smoking salmon in Sweden and combining it with the Irish craft, the Burren Smokehouse produces two different types, a cold smoked salmon, and a hot smoked salmon.

After a talk on how its done, we finally get to the eating part. Both types are sampled on Irish soda bread, and yes both are really delicious. Birgitta is particularly proud of what they have done here, and having fed the Queen of England, and a whole host of other royalty and celebrities over the years, rightly so. They ship both nationally and internationally too, so you can have a try before Ollie’s Tours take you here.

Burren Brewery

Our next stop is a whole 100 metres away, and it’s here we meet Peter Curtin. the husband of Brigitta. He’s a real larger-than-life character, full of stories. As a third generation owner of the The Roadside Tavern, its obviously in his blood. This kind of hospitality can’t be taught, it’s inherited. As well as challenging Ollie’s game plan to get you to the next tasting (via his tales), Peter introduces us to his brewery.

It’s the smallest microbrewery in Europe and it’s amazing that he’s able to produce 4 different beers, all from a room no bigger than a studio apartment. After a talk on the processes involved in brewing beer, we taste the fruits of the Burren Brewery.

The first three are the main staples of any beer tasting, a lager (Burren Gold), a red ale (Burren Red) and a stout (Burren Black). As a Guinness drinker I was particularly impressed by the Burren Black. Many have tried , and failed, to produce a stout that lives up the famous Irish product. Not here. Perhaps this is why Lonely Planet have taken notice, and deem the brewery one of three you simply must visit in Ireland.

But there’s a fourth beer in the tasting, known as Euphoria. It is a real curiosity, completely created from wild herbs and wild yeast from the Burren which surrounds the brewery. Even more unusual is it doesn’t contain hops, like essentially every other beer I can think of. Peter, a keen historian, has created a gruit beer, a type of beer which was common around the 14th century. The beer is completely unique in this world, so its something not to be missed. It tastes something like a spirit, but with the low alcohol content of a beer. It’s definitely different.

Cheese Press

Ollie wrestles back control of the tour from Peter (a hard task, the man is captivating), and we are bundled back into the car with the promise of a cheese tasting. Arriving back in Doolin the Cheese Press beckons. It’s a community hub, artisan and local produce shop, cheesemonger, deli and café. Of all that, we are here to try their excellent Irish cheeses. There are four cheeses on the slab today, two from Cashel in Tipperary (Ireland’s cheese capital), one from Armagh, and one locally produced.

The Cheese press is owned and run by Sinéad Ní Gháirbhith, who also shares her knowledge of cheese on tours during the tasting. As a former cheesemaker at local company St Tola, she knows her stuff. The company ethos is to only serve quality Irish cheeses made from Irish milk. I can vouch for that. We might not get everything right here in Ireland, but our dairy is hard beaten.

First u on the tasting was the Cashel Shepherds’ Store Cheese, a sheep cheese. It reminded me of Pecorino Romano, hard and flavourful. Would be amazing in a carbonara. Next was Cashel Blue Cheese, one of Ireland’s most famed varieties. It’s soft, tangy, made from cows milk, and delicious.

Then The Triple Rose from Ballylisk of Armagh, a soft cream cheese said to be lemony. Personally it wouldn’t be what I’m looking for in a cheese. Finally we got to try one, that Sinead the owner knows well, from St Tola. Their ash crotin cheese is coated in food grade ash, and this slows down the cheeses development, and enrichens the flavour. After getting over the black ash exterior, it reminded me of feta without the salt notes.

Russell’s fish shop

Our tour finally brings us back to our first stop, The Fiddle and Bow Hotel. It being a pleasant June day, it was perfect to head out into the Meadow. The Meadow is a coffee shop at the back of the hotel, with a seating area quaintly laid out on hay bales. It’s all under canopy cover too, a fine response to Ireland’s summer of outdoor dining. Here we meet Steph the manager, who has a strong appreciation for the coffee she sells.

The coffee is from Anam, a small roastery located in the nearby Burren. Today we tried an espresso from organic Guatemala Quetzalito beans, said to have notes of cherry and plum, with a buttery taste. I enjoy my coffee, but I don’t pick up notes like I do in wine. Buttery- perhaps. It did make for a good espresso.

This being Ireland, near the sea, and the final course on our food tour, we were always going to finish with fish and chips. Happily so might I add. We walked a grand total of ten metres to Russell’s Fish Shop, also located within the hotel. One stop shop for sure. It’s a relatively new addition to the village of Doolin, and takes its name from the Russell Brothers, famous musicians from Doolin. Perhaps one day their fish will be as famous as the musicians, and they are on the right track to get there. Their offering is faultless from their chunky chips to battered cod. Definitely no better way to round off one of the best food tours around.

JJ Corry Whiskey

Since my tour, I have learned from Ollie, that in his continued efforts to better the food tour, a visit to J.J. Corry whiskey bonders has been added to the itinerary. It’s great news for both whiskey lovers and designated drivers who missed out on the beer tasting fun at the Burren Brewery. The bonders have a stall in… yes you guessed it, The Fiddle and Bow Hotel.

Whiskey bonding in Ireland is an old craft, that sadly died out after the crash in the Irish whiskey market due to prohibition in America. Prior to that Irish Whiskey was more popular than Scotch, but I guess the bootleggers favoured their peat and single malt. Whiskey bonding is the practice of sourcing new and mature Irish whiskey, and blending it to create a new product. Back in the day this was done by publicans who bought the whiskey from the several hundred distillers on the island.

JJ Corry offer their own bonded whiskey now to the lucky people on Ollie’s Tours. It’s a great opportuinity for water of life lovers to try something new and exclusive, not seen on shelves or behind bars. Another feather in the hat of Ollie’s tour.

The Doolin Food Tour – Ireland’s best food tour

The food tour is a great way to sample some of Doolin’s and Lisdoonvarna’s best establishments. It is available from below for €60 per person, with a discounted rate of €55 for students. The tour takes about 3 hours to complete, and start daily at 2pm. Should you be vegetarian there are options available, and you can enquire about this at the time of booking.

Other tours from Ollie’s Tours

The Doolin Food Tour is only one of a host of tours available from Ollie’s Tours. The most popular is the Cliffs of Moher walking tour from Doolin, that follows an 8km route along one of the most spectacular cliff paths in the world. Also on offer is a walking tour of Ennis, and an Ennis food tour. Finally Ollie gives tours of Bunratty Castle. He’s a busy man. Some of these tours are restricted by 2021’s shenanigans so its best to check the website for what’s available at the time you travel.

While our tour with Ollie was sponsored we thoroughly enjoyed every second. It is equal parts educational, fun, and great food. An unmissable experience on the Wild Atlantic Way and in Clare.

Where to next?

To the north of Clare is Galway, a cultural and fun city. West of that is Connemara, the best of which you will find on a road trip. South is Kerry and Killarney and the Ring of Kerry, and Dingle.

FYI: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may subsequently receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support. 

The Irish have always had a love affair with the sandwich and its the staple of many lunches here. It’s never destined to be the healthiest food, and in part I theorise this is why it has grown so popular here again. With the movement towards veganism and healthy dining over the last decade or so, it’s natural that a counter-culture would develop, celebrating food stuffed with meat, pickled veg, and calorie rich sauce. This has been the resurrection of the sandwich! Let’s celebrate it!

The Best Sandwiches in Dublin

147 deli – The Breakfast Buttie

147 deli is a special place. A strong contender for Dublin’s best sandwich, it’s in the happening foodie area of Parnell Street. While it doesn’t necessarily fit with the string of oriental restaurants surrounding, it stands out for its perfect home baked sandwich bread (and I mean perfect), and top quality ingredients. The selection isn’t huge but with mouthwatering options such as the cheese steak sandwich, BBQ pork, and breakfast buttie (pictured), there’s definitely something for die hard sambo fanatics. They do daily specials too if you want to mix it up, so 147 deli is worthy of more than a few return visits.

Bunsen – Best Burger in Dublin

So the question can be asked – is a burger a sandwich? Two slices of bread and meat and veg in the middle; I think it is. However if you disagree you can take it up when I don’t include any sandwiches in my best burger in Dublin post (which probably won’t happen). Undoubtedly the best beef and cheese sandwich in the city is Bunsen, who have been spreading quicker than I can eat a burger. They now have restaurants in Ranelagh, South Anne Street, Baggot Street, Wexford Street, Dame Street, Temple Bar, and in Belfast and Cork if you are away and miss them too much.

It’s in their simplicity that they bring perfection, the menu is short and sweet, so short in fact it fits on a business card. Burger, cheeseburger, double burger, and a selection of fries. You don’t need anymore. Their burger meat is sourced from FXB, and they keep the ingredients sparse, to give a full appreciation of the meats quality. Burgers are cooked medium well for the ultimate juicy taste explosion when you bite into them. My mouth may be watering as I write this. GO TO BUNSEN!!!

Hush Rathmines – The Chosen One

Hush is a relatively newcomer on the scene, but with its catchy sandwich names and posh looking offerings it deserves its place on the list. The catchy sandwich names include Yer Saucy Ma (Cajun chicken), Rude Boi (pastrami), The Notorious BLT, Sing to me Paulo (caprese) and our chosen recommendation, err, The Chosen One. The Chosen One contains Porchetta, Salsa Verde, Kohlrabi, Apple Sauce & Celeriac, and it’s a pretty sandwich to behold. But you’ll be holding it to eat it, and it doesn’t disappoint. Strong flavours from the veg and apple sauce perfectly compliment the crispy pork bits that fill the large offering. The suburb of Rathmines performs really strongly on sandwich offerings and Hush is another feather in its cap.

Umi Falafel -The Best Falafel and Vegan sandwich in Dublin

Falafel. For most of my life I didn’t knew what it was, let alone ate it. Now that it’s one of the highlights of my sandwich article, and my personal favourite vegan food. I don’t know how I lived without it. As a meat substitute, there is no better in my book. Of course Falafel restaurants have exploded in Dublin of late, and you will find Umi Falafel scattered around the south city centre on Dame Street, Rathmines, Mary Street, and the Georges Arcade. If your path leads you through its doors, can I suggest the Palestinian Falafel. Palestinian bread: pocket full of hummus, tomato, pickles, fried aubergine, flat parsley and chilli and tahini sauce- basically everything on. They also offer halloumi sandwiches, though hands up, I’ve never tried. It’s impossible not to order the Palestinian Falafel, it’s so damn tasty. I probably never will, but I’ll be visiting Umi Falafel as long as I still have teeth.

Five Points – Buttermilk Chicken

3fe have long been revolutionizing coffee in Dublin, and now they are working on the sandwich. Five Points have a quality offering in the suburb of Harolds Cross blessed with good humoured staff and a versatile menu. But one item stands out from the rest. The Fried Chicken Breast on Brioche Bap, with Crunchy Slaw, Sriracha Mayo, and Pickled Onion, is the chicken fillet roll, reinvented. Similar to the buttermilk chicken breast offered in other locations around the city, they just seem to do it better. A lot like their coffee.

Oxmantown -ham and cheese

So let’s be honest ham and cheese is hardly reinventing the sandwich. But! There’s nothing boring about the sandwiches at Oxmantown. With two locations in Dublin 7, at Smithfield and St Mary’s Abbey, this business has gone from strength to strength. Take a look at the ham and cheese. Braised Ham hock, that super tasty part of pork leg, grilled gruyere, bechamel, slow roast tomato, pickles + rocket on Firehouse Bakery granary, I mean how good does that sound. Revelation, it tastes so good too. The menu in Oxmantown is small, but daily specials offer something new for the pallet. On my next visit, I’ll be ordering the roast pork or ruby, featuring star performers pork shoulder and pastrami.

Meltdown – Cajun Chicken

Meltdown is downright ugly experience. Opening their biodegrade packaging, you are met by a messy sight. Cheese sticks everywhere (that’s where the Meltdown comes from). Pulling it away from the packaging, you become the next victim, latching onto you like a leech. It makes you wonder if it’s all worth it. One bite, and all those frivolities float away. Meltdowns’ sandwiches are seriously scrumptious. Take the Cajun chicken; the perfect blend of spice with Cajun sauce, jalapenos, and stringy cheese. I’m going to be honest here, I ate every piece off that stuck to the wrapper. If it weren’t for the sensitivities over touch surfaces, I may have eaten the whole wrapper. I mean its biodegradable, right? Meltdown is so so naughty, but so good. I’ve yet to be back for more, but the Ballymaloe and Bacon, Smoked Fungi, and Rib melt all look ravishing. All sandwiches take 7 minutes to prepare due to the ridiculous amount of cheese that needs to be melted in there. Who doesn’t need a treat like that every so often? You’ll find a Meltdown on Leeson St and Montague street opposite Green Bench café.

Mama’s Revenge – Best Burrito in Dublin

Burritos’ have been the rage in Dublin for well over a decade and while some chains grow and grow, one little Tex-Mex restaurant has stayed true to themselves. That restaurant is Mama’s Revenge on Leinster Street, who’s offering is superior to all of those I won’t bother to mention. Look for the queues outside, with many of them Trinity College students spending their hard earned cash on a few minutes of bliss. Or more likely Daddy’s money. The menu covers burritos, quesadillas, tacos, chilli con carne and nachos, and doesn’t differ much from the rest. it’s all in the taste, and good quality ingredients. There are bowls too for those looking for a slightly healthier offering. Extra points are earned for the humorous instructions on how to eat a burrito.

The Lovely Food Co – Brisket

Brisket is another one of those things that has only reared its lovely head in the last decade in Ireland. It’s massive stateside, with people queueing for hours for the best going. Here we love to stuff it in a sandwich like anything else we can find. I mean if food doesn’t work in a sandwich, then it’s not worth eating, is it? The best brisket stuffers I’ve come across are The Lovely Food Co.

They have two Dublin based cafes, one in Drumcondra, and the other in Terenure. With a nice alfresco area in Drumcondra, people watching is on the menu too. But people come and go, and we here to stay for the sandwiches. The menu reads Tender brisket of beef, caramelised onion and wholegrain mustard aioli. Yes it’s easily as good as it reads. A huge sambo that goes down even better when paired with their unbelievably tasty chips.

Poulet Bonne Femme- Roast Sandwich

Avoca have always produced good food, but I didn’t realise till late they did sandwiches. Major faux pas on my behalf. The sandwiches are served under the Poulet Bonne Femme name, a stand alone stall in their food stores. It’s all kept fairly simple; rotisserie chicken seems to be on a conveyor belt from the back, and a carver works overtime slicing it for the neverending queue of customers. They also do roast pork crackling. Here’s the best advice I can give on this entire article (if advice on sandwiches is even advice at all) – ask for a mix of pork and chicken. Then load it will coleslaw and stuffing, and et voila, a roast chicken sandwich of awesome proportions. The mix of the soft chicken and crispy pork is spot on, like a pimped up club sandwich.

Poulet Bonne Femme is found at Avoca in Monkstown, Rathcoole, Dunboyne, Kilmacanogue, and Ballsbridge.

Zaytoon – Doner Kebab

Often the target after a night on the town, traditionally kebabs in Dublin have a reputation for two things- Ruining your favourite shirt or causing an almighty hangover. The second one has left many a chipper with a bad reputation whether deserved or not. But one kebab house has appeal any time of day, not just after a feed of pints and jäger bombs. That kebab house is Zaytoon and the only one in Dublin truly deserving of the accolade of Dublin’s best kebab. Again its debatable if a kebab is a sandwich. I’m open to that debate in the comments below.

Zaytoon keep it simple and honest with their modern Persian Cuisine slant, everything is fresh from the meat through the veg, chilli and sauces. They have been on the Dublin scene for over 20 years, so rest assured they are doing it right. Their range of doners and shish kebabs are now availabe at four locations, Ranelagh, Camden Street, Temple Bar and Swords.

Happy Out -the asparagorgeous

Easily winning the title for the sandwiches with the best names, Happy Out has two locations across the city, in Donnybrook and on Bull Island. For those that think that asparagus belongs in everything (and I know some of my readers do) then the asparagoegous (pictured below) is for you. For the other half of the population that thinks bacon does, you can add it in.

Happy Out is huge, they do great coffee too, and lines waiting outside is a constant sight. Besides the Asparargorgeous, theres the Hamazing (surprise, it contains ham) and the Clucking Unbelievable. I’ve tried the latter too, bacon, chicken, smashed avocado, and that three cheese mix that is the signature ingredient of Happy Out. But I’m happy to give a vegetarian sandwich some time on this article.

Brother Hubbard – Pulled Pork – one of Dublin’s best sandwiches

No self respecting sandwich guide is complete without a Pulled Pork sandwich on it. The only question is which one deserves its place there. For many years there was no contest as Brother Hubbard North on Capel St served one without parallel. Till they didn’t. It led to many years wandering the streets trying to find what was missing from my life. Once again Brother Hubbard stood up. This time it was Brother Hubbard South on Harrington Street, their sister restaurant. The new pulled pork is more “linner” than lunch, thick brioche, served with a generous amount of pulled pork, and a fried egg loaded on top. Definitely a feast in a box. Brother Hubbard is back as the king of the Pulled Pork!

Ernesto’s Rathmines – New Yorker

I’ve been a loyal customer of this Cuban-New York style café for many years now, and it has always been impeccable. Ernesto’s menu is refreshing and tasty. The café is run by the friendly Jonathan and his team, and he really is a character that matches his surroundings. I nearly always go for the New Yorker- its delicate blend of chicken, prosciutto and pickle are just the ticket at lunch time. Then there’s the coffee- the flat white is the best that I’ve tried in the city. Another reason to visit the suburb of Rathmines.

Coronation chicken – Cinnamon Restaurant

Somehow when I think of Coronation chicken, I’m made to think of the long running British soap opera. Thankfully there’s less drama here, and it has nothing to do with it. Coronation chicken was a dish created in 1953 to celebrate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth. It’s a mixture of mayo, herbs and spices. Of course it works in sandwiches, and Cinnamon do it so well. Their take on it involves shredded chicken breast, spiced mayo, mango chutney & crème fraîche served with toasted almond, grapes & baby leaves on multigrain. Reads well? Tastes better. Cinnamon are expanding their restaurants through south Dublin, and now have outlets in Ranelagh, Monkstown and Ballsbridge.

The Meatball sub at Doughboys

The meatball sub has been doing the rounds for a long time. But like most good things, a time comes when someone comes along and just does it better. In the case of the meatball sub, it’s Doughboys on Charlotte Way that do it better. Combining meatball marinara, mozzarella, and some fresh salads, they have hit the right note on this one. Tasting note anyway, it’s another that built for tastes and not looks. You’ll find a broad range of over 20 various types of sandwiches in Doughboys, and they’ll bowl them if bread doesn’t sit well with you. They have a strong focus on fresh, across their breads, sauces, veg, and meats. It’s a firm favourite with the local corporate custom, so now’s a good chance to try it while offices are still quiet.

The Pig and Heifer – The New York Reuben – “THE” Best Sandwich in Dublin

In the time honoured tradition of just about everything, I’ve saved the best till last. The Pig and Heifer was a life changing experience. Beata told me this was the best. “In Dublin?” I asked. No, literally the best sandwich ever! It’s quite hard to disagree. Pearse Street is somewhat out of the way for me, but the Pig and Heifer is well worth driving to. From anywhere. Maybe Michelin need to take notice of this place.

First of all there’s the menu. There are 31 different sandwiches on the menu. Yes 31!! That’s one for every day of a regular month. But it’s not all about a good menu. After this blog, I can write one. But walk through the door here, and you are met by a warm, welcoming and knowledgeable staff. I was only ever going to ask for one sandwich on my first visit; the New York Reuben. The bread looked straight from the oven, and I watched, salivating, as the pastrami was piled on with sauerkraut, swiss cheese and a spinach salad. That sandwich couldn’t get into my hands quick enough.

This one was enjoyed at the steering wheel of the car (thank you 2021). But the whole world melted away, and the incredible taste of the New York Reuben became all that mattered for five or thirty minutes. Who knows how long it really was. Time was insignificant right there and then.

Needless to say, I’m advocating the Pig and Heifer as the one sandwich joint you must try in Dublin. They have two locations, on Amiens Street and Pearse Street, which are both about 15 minutes walk from Grafton Street and O’Connell Street respectively.

Want to take some of those calorie burning walks that allowed me to enjoy the above and still lose kilos during the pandemic? Then here are my favourites. The best walks and hikes in Dublin.

Spending your summer in Ireland? Here’s a massive list of 21 ideas to for your staycation in 2021.

Have I missed your favourite Dublin sandwich? There’s always space on CarpeDiemEire for more suggestions. The hunt for the best sandwich in Dublin is one I’m happy to continue, trawling those city streets in search of that perfect lunch. There are some restaurants that haven’t reopened after the Irish restrictions such as the Ugly Duckling and Hatch and Sons, so hopefully when they do, they will find their place here.

Just in case I’ve upset some with my choices above, I’ll leave you with the best sandwich joke I know.

An Englishman, a Scotsman and an Irishman are all working on a construction site in London. It’s lunchtime and they’re all sat atop the building. Englishman opens up his lunchbox to see what his wife has packed him. “Ugh… Ham and cheese sandwich… again. I’m sick of ham and cheese sandwiches, it’s the same every bloody day. If I get another ham and cheese sandwich in my lunch box tomorrow I’m jumping off the top of this building.”

Next, the Scotsman opens up his lunch box. “Aackk, jam sandwich… again. I can’t go on like this eating jam sandwiches every day of me life! If I get the same again tomorrow I’m jumping as well.”

Next it’s the Irishman’s turn. “Ohh for fecks sake! Not another egg sandwich! That’s the fourth one in a row this week! I’m with you boys, one more egg sandwich and I’m jumping!”

So next day they sit at the top of the building to have lunch. One by one they open up their lunch boxes… Englishman finds another ham and cheese sandwich, so off he jumps, and splats into the ground below. Scotsman finds another jam sandwich… Off he goes…Splat. Irishman, egg sandwich… Splat.

A week or so later later the three widows are talking at the memorial service. English widow says, through tears, “I still can’t believe it, had no idea George hated ham and cheese so much, if only i’d known…”

Scottish widow says “Duncan did say he was getting a bit bored of Jam, but I didn’t realise he hated it that much, I just wish he’d have let me know how he really felt.”

Irish widow says “I… I just don’t understand… Paddy packed his own lunch.”

The Ring of Kerry is a trio of words that evoke great memories in all that have followed its path. At 179 km or 111 miles it’s easily managed in a day. But not without sacrifices. Lonely Planet advises that you spend 4 days on this particular route, soaking up the atmosphere of its towns and views. However dedicating that length of time to just one part, of one county in Ireland, is not usually within the realms of all our possibilities. You may ask is the Ring of Kerry worth it then? It certainly is. If you only have one day for your Ring of Kerry Itinerary though, then you must focus on what you can do.

Firstly, you will need to find a base town before your drive and all roads really do lead to Killarney in this regard. It’s not your only option but its certainly the best. In its own regard its worthy of a few days, so arriving in good time will give you an opportunity to explore this fantastic town.

Staycations are very much on the cards for the summer of 2021 in Ireland. With a road map that sees a return of hospitality, attractions and tourist services from early June, now is the time to start planning your summer trips. Outdoor services and indoor heritage sites have already resumed and hotels will follow from 2nd June. From 7th June bars and restaurants will reopen with outdoor seating. Let’s hope the weather is forgiving this year. Remember to check ahead as not all businesses will open as normal, and pre-booking may be required. If you are short on inspiration these 21 suggestions on how to staycation Ireland in ’21 will surely be of help. Otherwise keep reading on for one of Ireland’s best holiday destinations.

Killarney

Killarney is the most famed of Ireland’s tourist towns. She sits on the banks of Lough Leane and beneath the watchful eye of Ireland’s biggest mountain range the Macgillycuddy Reeks. Surrounding the town is the Killarney National Park, featuring some of Ireland’s best scenery. The towns population of 15,000 dramatically swells for much of the year in account of tourism. Killarney can be reached by train from Cork and Dublin Heuston Station (timetables here), but this area is best travelled by car as all road trips are. You can also of course book a bus tour, with Get Your Guide a reliable resource for them.

Killarney is 300 kilometres or around 190 miles from Dublin. It’s a relatively swift drive as far as Limerick but that last 100 kilometres is through some primary roads that are prone to tailbacks. This is especially true of the town of Adare, but it’s also the kind of place you’ll be happy to drive slow or even stop to appreciate. It’s surely one of Ireland’s prettiest towns, with its rows of thatched cottages that grace its Main Street.

The drive should take you in the region of 4 hours from Dublin. Killarney’s fame as a tourist town becomes quickly apparent as you approach, it is clearly the biggest industry and every second house it seems operates as a B&B.

Finding a hotel in Killarney

Killarney has one of the highest concentrations of 5 star hotels in the world per capita. If your budget doesn’t stretch there, accommodations range from hotels to B&B’s to holiday homes. I use Booking.com for all my reservations.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Booking.com

Our choice this time was the Killarney Randles Hotel. It was slightly outside of the town centre but within easy walking distance. The building, the interior, and the bedrooms were all fantastic. The building is a 1906 rectory before been converted to a manor hotel and is classical in style, completely in keeping but maintained to a very high standard. As this was high season rooms were at a premium and we paid €200. But the high standard certainly justified it.

Exploring Killarney Town

After settling in we decided to give our legs a good stretch and walk into the town. It was less than five minutes to the amusingly named central square The Hahah. This is where one can find a jaunting car, the traditional horse-drawn carriages that are a trademark of Killarney. The drivers are known here as jarveys, and a variety of tours into the Killarney National Park are available. The most alluring of these is probably the tour through the Gap of Dunloe, and by boat back to Ross Castle, but only if you have ample time.

The town centre is attractive, colourful and bustling with people. American accents in particular filled the air, so many coming to find their lost heritage. The walk took us past St Marys Church of Ireland, which was basking in the sunlight. We stopped into the Underground Cafe for a few cakes on our stroll around. We can never help ourselves when away.

Jaunting Cars

Returning to the Hahah we indulged in that most Killarney of things, a tour on a jaunting car. We picked the tour to Ross Castle: it cost €15, and our jarveys name was John. He was a friendly fella, and give us a bit of info about the town as we passed by St Marys Cathedral and into Killarney National Park. First impressions of the park were beautiful all luscious and green and vast. The horse took us down through a marked road and after fifteen minutes we arrived at Ross Castle.

Ross Castle

The castle has a magnificent location on Lough Leane, and the waters glistened in the afternoon sun. Ducks swam up to the rocky shore and this peaceful inlet on the lake provides a small harbour. I guess this motivated the building of the castle in the 15th century by the O’ Donoghue’s, a ruling clan at the time. Who could blame them. Safe and idyllic. The castle is a tower keep, strategically built to use the water as an extra defence. The castle had a legend attached to it, that it couldn’t be sacked unless it was by water, which no ship at the time could do, due to the shallow water of the lake.

Enter Oliver Cromwell and his army, who after a land siege, built special ships in Kinsale. The sight of the ships spooked the castle dwellers and it soon fell. We didn’t really have time to visit the castle, as our man John the Jarvey was waiting on us, so we just strolled around the grounds for a while, in awe of the beauty of the lake and the setting. It’s an unmissable sight on your Ring of Kerry itinerary.

Gap of Dunloe

After returning to the to the town with our jaunting car, we went back to the hotel and to our more conventional car. It was a 20 minute drive around to the Gap of Dunloe. The gap was formed by glacial flows between the McGillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain and takes its name from the river Loe which now flows through it.

The start of the gap is noted as Kate Kearney’s Cottage, where bikes can be rented or refreshments got. The gap then winds through the valley for 11km. The road is particularly narrow and its a good drive past a series of lakes with steep sides on the glacial valley. Don’t expect to meet many other cars but there are quite a few horses and bikes using the route. It is recommended not to use a car, but if you are comfortable with narrow single lane country roads then its fine. Highlights along the way include the photogenic wishing bridge and the fine views into the Black Valley at the Head of the Gap.

Killarney night life

With 350 kilometres spent at the wheel we gave the car a rest for the evening. It was a glorious evening so we wandered into the town. After traversing up and down the streets a few times looking for somewhere to eat we finally settled on The Porterhouse, where some live music provided a nice background to our dinner of ribs and lamb shank. The music ended somewhat prematurely so after our meal we found Scruffy’s pub, which was just the tonic. Several pints and numerous folk songs later we staggered back to the hotel, for a nightcap of cocktails on the hotel terrace.

Driving the Ring of Kerry

We rose early on the second day of our trip in anticipation of a long day and had a brilliant breakfast to set us on our way. This was our Ring of Kerry one day itinerary. Below is the typical Ring of Kerry drive map.

It was a blistering warm day with clear blue skies. Perfect road-trip weather. We choose to do the Ring of Kerry clockwise as it suited our plan to travel to Dingle and it’s Slea Head Drive. It’s also the opposite direction of Ring of Kerry tour buses and so you have the added advantage of not getting stuck behind. However you will meet them head on and very possibly on some narrow roads. This is an important consideration for anyone attempting this drive. If you aren’t comfortable driving in the British isles I would suggest to travel counter-clockwise.

Will this be your first trip to Ireland? If so please let me allay your fears on driving here with my essential driving tips in Ireland.

Muckross Abbey

Leaving the hotel Beata and I made a quick visit to Muckross Abbey, a 15th century Franciscan Abbey. It’s a little walk from the car park and the abbey is completely free to enter. It’s in ruins but you can take the stairs up to the upper level. Highlights include the vaulted cloister around a yew tree, that is said to be as old as the abbey. A rundown graveyard surrounds the church, which amazingly is still used to this day. Jaunting cars run from here to Muckross House.

Muckross House

The historical Muckross House which is located within the Killarney National Park is only a fifteen minute drive from Killarney. Parking up we limited our visit to a stroll in the gardens and around the house. The grounds border Muckross Lake and as with any of the Killarney Lakes the views are alluring.

The house was built in the 1830’s on the site of earlier houses for the Herbert family, and apparently this is a scaled back version of the original plans. Makes you wonder. It’s a magnificent stone mansion. The gardens which compliment the house were added over the next century. There is a host of activities from tours of the period furnished house which cost €9, to a visit to the traditional farm, as well as various craft demonstrations. We kept our visit limited.

Torc Waterfall

The Ring of Kerry makes an assent above the lakes and before long we had arrived at our next stop, 3.5km away. Torc Waterfall is fed by the Owengarriff River from Torc Mountain above. It’s about 25 metres in height and while not that impressive it’s worth the short five-minute stroll from the car park. There is a viewing deck to stand and practice your slow shutter speed skills. A number of more challenging walks take you alongside the waterfall for an impressive array of views over the lakes.

Ladies View

The road steadily increases in altitude with intermittent flashes of blue through the trees from the lakes below. Before long it open up to present a viewing point. This viewing point has become known as Ladies View. This refers to the ladies-in-waiting of Queen Victoria, whom expressed delight at the sights when visiting here in 1861. We took a ramble out to the rocks which present the best perspective, through the valley floor and over the Killarney lakes. Photos don’t do it justice, but its a visual treat. It had been over an hour since my last coffee, so the conveniently located Ladies View Industries, a cafe and tourist shop, helped me refuel.

The ascent in the Ring of Kerry continued and we made an unscheduled stop at Looscaunagh lake. Somehow this little lake seemed more beautiful to us than in the ones in the Killarney floor below. It was our favourite of all the Ring of Kerry stops.

Finally the road reached Molls Gap which opens up into spectacular views of the valley beyond. From here the route gradually declines to sea level. The Killarney to Molls Gap section of the Ring, is surely its most picturesque. We drove on through the towns of Kenmare and Sneem without stopping, though these towns are good overnight locations with top hotels. Little inlets from the sea break the often wooded scenery along this stretch none more picturesque than the one I featured below.

Staigue Fort

We only made one stop along this section before we reached the extreme west coast. It is reached via the narrowest of lanes which is four kilometres long. Thankfully we didn’t meet anyone else on our way there, I would envisage it being a big problem. Staigue Fort is one of the largest stone forts in Ireland. It was constructed in the early centuries AD.

Ringforts were an early defensive fortification with large walls to protect those who live inside. The walls here were up to six metres high and four metres thick. These can be climbed by a succession of stairs built into the interior. It’s a nice Celtic structure and is one of a number of forts along the route.

The most westerly part of the Ring of Kerry is also the one with the most distractions. Firstly it’s the springboard to the Skellig islands, including that one that was sold so well in those Disney movie. There is also Valentia Island, the location of the Kerry cliffs and more of the wild views that Kerry is so famous for.

Skellig Michael

If you have additional days on the Ring of Kerry, you might look to spend a night on its west coast and the Skellig ring. Skellig Michael is one of only three Irish UNESCO World Heritage Sights, and is accessed via boat. It lies 11.6 km off the coast and atop this craggy rock, a monastic settlement dating from 588 AD is located. Known for its characteristic beehive huts, the wonder lies in how monks made this their home for 600 years. Is it any wonder so did Luke Skywalker.

Only 180 people per day are allowed to travel to the Skelligs. Boat tours run from the town of Portmagee near Valencia Island. You are at the mercy of the sea, and this being Ireland’s Atlantic coast, the weather is very unforgiving. But if luck is on your side this is one of the highlights of the Ring of Kerry. A number of companies run the trips and a complete list can be found skelligmichael.com.

Derrynane

Derrynane is a town famed as the home of Irish statesman Daniel O’Connell. His birthplace Derrynane House can be visited with many relics from his life on show. We skipped the house and drove down to Derrynane beach, which is one of the most beautiful beaches in Kerry if not Ireland. Returning to the ring road up above you are indulged by scintillating vistas of the beach. Somehow I always prefer to view a beach from far as I’m not a sand between my toes kind of guy. I guess it’s also the contrast between the sand, the sea and the general greenness.

Adventures in food on our Ring of Kerry Itinerary

We were now starving so we decided to eat in the next town that our paths crossed. This happened to be Waterville. Watervilles fame is that one Charlie Chaplin frequented the place many times on his holidays. If this seaside town was good enough for Charlie it was good enough for us. Alas we couldn’t find anywhere open so we plundered on.

It was twenty minutes to Cahirciveen and by that time a hole the side of a moon crater had grown in our tummys. We passed the turn to Valentia island and adventures missed, but a man generally follows his impulses. Food. We picked the first restaurant we found in Cahirciveen, Camos which was thankfully just what we needed. We settled on paninis and big coffees, which were a delight.

Cahirciveen

Just outside the town of Cahirciveen a bridge crosses the estuary to a headland. Standing guard at the entrance to the bridge is the impressive looking Old Barracks. A British army barracks constructed in 1875 to protect the newly laid telegraph cable between Britain and America, it is fabled that it was built to specifications for a building in India, as the plans got mixed up in haste. It is a little out of place. It now hosts a heritage museum for the surrounding area.

The bridge takes us to the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, and to a couple of more stone ringforts. The bigger of these is the Cahergall stone fort, which was probably occupied up until 1000 years ago, and stood for up to 500 years. The lower walls of an interior building are still intact. The walls can be still scaled on this one too. Keep an eye out for the horseflies, as Beata was climbing the walls she became the victim of one. Its ok though; she survived!

Adjacent to this area is the Leacanabuaile Stone Fort. this one is grassier and with a bigger collection of dwellings inside. Its stone walls are three metres thick. Its worth visiting both as they are drastically different to each other.

Falling victim to weather on our Ring of Kerry itinerary

The biggest curse of the West of Ireland, is its a part of the world where time is best spent exploring the wilds of its countryside. And for that you need reasonable weather. And visibility. A thick cloud had started to form since we left our lunch and suddenly it rolled in over the hills until they appeared no more. It was beautiful but it detracted for our experience. It had been 27 degrees earlier in the day (that’s warm in Ireland) but the cloud brought a chill with it. We also lost all views while passing the MacGillycuddy Reeks and the relative might of Carrauntoohill, Ireland’s highest peak.

Rossbeigh Beach

Our planned route had one more stop on it on the Ring of Kerry, to take the R564 road down to the beach at Rossbeigh. The narrow road presents astonishing views over the elongated beach…allegedly. We saw a few metres in front of us, which isn’t the best when navigating a sharp bended country road with steep drops. When we arrived at the beach all the sunbathers were deserting it in their droves so we sadly deserted with them.

The loss of weather and the exodus of beach goers unfortunately brought to light one problem of the Ring of Kerry. Traffic. Even though we had seen much of what we had hoped for, the route near days end, passing through Killorglin and on to Killarney, is one often fraught with traffic jams. It’s something to bear in mind as you take on this most worthy of roads.

From here you can choose to return to Killarney, return to Dublin via Tralee, or continue your exploration of the Wild Atlantic Way with Dingle and the Dingle Peninsula.

If you enjoyed this Ring of Kerry Itinerary, it would be wonderful if you could pin, comment, or repost.

Hungary shares many items from its cuisine with the surrounding countries. Borders have moved and been renegotiated but one thing moves even easier and that’s the people. With them they took their recipes and so if you land in Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, or Germany you are very well likely to find similar items on menus. But there are some dishes that are native Hungarian and I’m going to introduce you to these as well as suggest where to find them in the country’s capital.

Traditional Hungarian food is traditionally heavy on meat, but there are more and more restaurants catering for allergies, vegetarians and vegans. I’m going to focus mostly on the traditional where pork and chicken would be the most common meats served.

What to Eat in Budapest and Hungary

Goulash/ Gulyas

It’s the first dish that everyone thinks of when Hungarian cuisine is mentioned. It is a broad term and can be eaten as a soup like starter or as a stew. When considering what to eat in Budapest, this is the essential dish.

Goulash Soup

Goulash soup is a broth of beef, potato, paprika and tomato. It’s perhaps best suited to the colder winter months, but it is undoubtedly delicious. This staple of traditional Hungarian food is usually served with a side of some bread. The soup has a strong deep red colour. It may also be known as Gulyasleves on menus.

When in Budapest I can strongly recommend Pest-Buda Bistro for Goulash. They serve an awesome soup and by all accounts a great stew as well. The restaurant is located in the castle district of Buda, a few minutes walk from the Fisherman’s Bastion on Fortuna Utca. It is one of Hungary’s oldest restaurants being in continuous operation since around 1800. A Goulash Soup costs 1960 HUF, and bear in mind that €1=320 HUF for the remainder of this blog.

Gulyasporkolt

Goulash is a stew of meat (usually beef) and vegetables served with paprika, tomato, onion and other spices. It found its origin amongst cattle herdsmen in the ninth century, and now is popular worldwide. It also takes its name from this as a Gulyas is a cattle herdsman. I came across some of these on my 2018 trip to the wild west of Hungary, in the Hungarian Puszta.

It’s a dish you are going to have to try on your trip, as not to do so would be like leaving Italy without pasta passing your lips. It’s available in most restaurants serving traditional cuisine, so is widespread throughout Buda and Pest. If beef isn’t your thing try csirkeporkolt, which is commonly known as chicken paprikash. Porkolt is usually cooked in a large pot over an open flame, and if you get out of the city, or to a market, this process is a common sight. The dish usually comes with a side of nokedli which a type of Hungarian noodle. There are many modern restaurants serving variations on the dish, but you can’t go wrong with Pest-Buda Bistro.

If you are feeling super brave scroll down to the end for my suggestions on a porkolt for those who really would like to sample everything Hungary has to offer.

Sour cherry soup

Hideg Meggyleves is perhaps a better option for those sticky summer months in the city. Served cold this soup is a mix of sour cherries, spices, sugar, and a dollop of sour cream on top. I can attest to the quality of this soup, it’s absolutely delicious, and cherries wouldn’t really be my thing. It’s very much a seasonable product so will be found on menus during the summer months. I sampled this one in the town of Hortobagy on the Great Hungarian Plain. However if in Budapest, Kispiac Bisztro on Hold Street comes highly recommended. Cherries mature in June so the subsequent months will bring the best flavours.

Lecso

Lecso is not something I’ve had a the pleasure of eating out when in Hungary, but I have eaten many times in my wife’s home. It’s one of those things I simply have to have when there. Basically it’s a thick vegetable ragout made with yellow pointed peppers, onions, tomatoes, paprika with sautéed bacon. It’s a treat for the taste buds.

Lecso can be found in Budapest at the imaginatively named Lecso restaurant on Szent Istvan Krt near Margarit Bridge. This cafe doubles as a restaurant for the evening and provides great value for money. It is also the perfect place to find stuffed cabbage.

Toltott Kaposzta

Toltott kaposzta (stuffed cabbage leaves) is a dish commonly found in Central Europe, the Middle East and Asia. It is a cabbage roll, where the ingredients of minced pork, rice, onion, paprika, and garlic are wrapped in cabbage. Hungarians generally use sour or sweet cabbage. It is served with sour cream, which plays a starring role in many Hungarian dishes.  It is said that the dish will bring you health and wealth two things I’m sure we are all looking for. Again cabbage wouldn’t be my bag in Ireland, but this is a dish I’ve enjoyed more than I thought I would.

Rantott Hus

This is another dish that is synonymous with the surrounding area and most commonly known as Schnitzel worldwide. Schnitzel is usually pork or veal, which is beaten with a meat tenderising hammer, coated in flour, eggs and breadcrumbs and deep-fried. Rantott hus however is often served using chicken. As I’m sure you all know it’s delicious and one of my faves. There are variations available. Rantott Sajt is with cheese.

I was told I had to try Buja Diszno(k) in the Hold Street Market. For 2300huf you get an enormous Rantott Hus. It was twice the size of my hand and was a real man vs food situation. I’m happy to say I won, just don’t expect to eat dinner if this is your lunch. Perfect for those on a budget. Its served with creamy potato salad which is the ideal light accompaniment. If this is too big they do serve Rantott Ful, which is pig ear.

Many restaurants will serve stuffed Rantott Hus, usually with cheese. This is something worth trying should you find on a menu. I’ve only enjoyed this on my trips in Eastern Hungary but its widespread.

Ciganypecsenye

Gypsy Roast as this dish translates to is another heavy on the meat dish. Finding its origin in Hungary’s gypsy minority, this dish has now found popularity in homes and restaurants.

It is a blend of pork blade steaks and smoked bacon, roasted in a marinade of garlic, mustard, and paprika. The bacon comes out thick with grooves in it, and its very crunchy. Gypsy Roast is another large challenging dish. It is rare in Hungary that thought is given to saving space for dessert. Serving is usually with potatoes or wedges. As you may have guessed by now, I’m a big fan of how pork is served in Hungary, and this isn’t an exception. Delicious.

Paprika Restaurant in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter comes highly regarded for Gypsy Roast. I have had this dish several times across the country and it has always been spot on. Its an essential when considering what to eat in Budapest.

Eat Budapest Street Food

Hungary has a thriving street food scene that is well frequented by locals. Always a good sign. The offerings at these stalls varies and ranges from good gyros, to local sausages, to more indigenous fare. Naturally i will recommend the more local. Some of the aforementioned things are available also such as Rantott Hus.

Langos – The best Traditional Hungarian Food

Langos is one of my absolute favourites. It’s as street food as it gets, so don’t expect to find it in restaurants. Trust me I’ve tried. Langos is a deep fried dough which is then served with a choice of toppings. I find it best with sour cream (which you will find in many Hungarian recipes) and cheese. To help you out at the stall, it’s called Langos Saitos Tejfolos. Langos is a perfect blend of dough and crunch. It’s a little hard to even describe so it’s best tried. It certainly won’t break the bank and it’s more than enough to cover one of your daily meals. The only challenge is eating it, you can expect some loss of toppings. But that’s all part of the experience.

Being street food you could walk the streets looking for a market serving langos, or you could just take my advice. If you are in the region of St Stephens Basilica or the Parliament building in Pest, Arany Janos Ut is nearby. The metro station here (metro stations are always a good place to find street food in Budapest) houses Retro Langos Büfe. It may not look a million dollars from the outside, but they serve a mean langos, and you will feel it on the inside. Build up a good appetite with some local culture, and come here to make it history.

Hungarian desserts and where to find them

Chimney Cake

Chimney Cake is a sweet yeast dough that are baked and covered in cinammon sugar. The dough is hand rolled and then the cones are available with a variety of toppings. This one is traditional Hungarian. I have only tried it in the east again but it is available in a number of places throughout Budapest, notably Chimney Cone on Vigado Ut (see photo below) and Street Cakes on Andrassy Ut. The latter looks the better option with real variety in their offerings. I found them to be quite expensive costing around 2000huf in the city, but they are a cake worth trying.

Dobos Torta

Dobos Torte is a Hungarian layered sponge cake consisting of seven layers (yes seven), filled with chocolate buttercream and topped with caramel. Sometimes it comes coated with nuts if that isn’t enough. Dobos torte is available around the city, but it can be enjoyed at the very opulent New York Palace Cafe. The perfect surroundings for a luxury cake.

Budapest’s finest cafe is also billed as the most beautiful in the world. Built for the upper classes by the New York Life Insurance Company in 1884, the New York Palace cafe’s interior by Koraly Senyei, Gusztav Mannheimer, and Ferenc Eisenhut features stuccoes, frescoed ceilings, chandeliers, sweeping balconies, marble columns and Venetian lamps. The decor wouldn’t look lost in the halls of Versailles. But this is no museum, its a cafe, and an experience that shouldn’t be missed when in Budapest. That’s not to say they don’t charge for the privilege (they really do), and its popularity means that there can be significant queues to get a table.

The New York Cafe menu (when you get to see one) is what one expects from a cafe. Brunch items feature extensively such as French Toast, pancakes, sausage or foie gras, and some Hungarian staples as goulash. However most come for a coffee and cake (including your writer). If you want to be really indulgent there’s the 24 kt gold cappuccino. We left €56 behind for two coffees, two cakes, a milkshake and a water, but there was no questions on the taste front. This huge chocolate cake fan left more than impressed. Look at that art!

Gelato

Ok so Hungary didn’t invent gelato. Not am I even claiming they did. They are however doing their best to reinvent it. If you’ve been to Budapest in summer, you’ll know the Hungarian capital is sticky hot, and without a sea or ocean for parsecs, that ice cream is essential. There are some big players looking to bring a different slant to ice cream in Budapest. First there’s Levendula on Rakoczi ut, which, translating as lavender leaves you with no surprise as to what they do. Floral flavours are their speciality. Then there’s Gelarto Rosa, on Szent Istvan ter, who go one further and offer floral presentation. True to their name also, their artful gelato is served in the shape of a rose. The long lines attest to its popularity. Gelato reinvented for sure.

Authentic Budapest Dining Experiences

Ruin Bars

Ruin bars are a unique Budapest phenomenon. They are exactly as advertised, bars opened inside the ruins of old buildings. Most of these are found in the Jewish Quarter on the city, and while they are better known for their late night partying, they do serve traditional food during the day. You can’t go to Budapest without experiencing ruin bars, and the original (and best) is Szimpla Kert. Do not expect fine dining though, these places are rough and ready, yet trendy.

Markets

Budapest isn’t big on breakfast, but if your accommodation doesn’t serve it, then there’s no better place to go than the Central Market Hall on Vamhaz krt. It’s the oldest, largest, and prettiest market in the city, though it’s worth noting the market is at its busiest with locals before 0 am. Hungarian breakfast usually consists of a sandwich with cold cuts and cheese, and you find all this on the lower floors where all the fresh produce is sold. You might think about picking up some retes, a version of strudel usually stuffed with jam or cottage cheese. Delicious. On the upper floors, there are eateries with more of the street food mentioned above, so the market is an option come lunchtime too.

Now that we’ve dabbled in some of the aesthetic side of Budapest, it’s inevitable that’s where we must keep going. There’s nowhere more beautiful to sit and eat, or drink a cocktail, than Budapest’s rooftop bars. See my recommendations in the Best Views in Budapest.

Budapest Food Tours

There are a range of Budapest food tours run locally, that specalise in giving you a taste of the city. Get Your Guide provides a secure and reliable site to book these in advance.

What not to eat in Budapest

There are some unusual dishes in Hungary too, with pigs ear, tripe, gizzard stew and trotter stew being quite popular, but then there is those to really give a wide berth to.

Kakashere Pörkölt

I can’t vouch for this dish as I haven’t tried it but I have heard it’s good from the few people I know to have eaten it. I did order it once in Tokaj but the restaurant was out. Secretly I was quite relieved. This translates as rooster testicle stew. No that wasn’t a typo. Yes it doesn’t sound pretty grotesque. But I was willing to give it a go. If you are, Getto Gulyas in the Jewish quarter of Pest is known for not making a balls of the dish.

I’m a regular traveler to Hungary when we can travel, and I’ll keep sampling its cuisine. Maybe one of these days I’ll try Kakashere Porkolt, and I’ll add my opinion to this blog.

Agyvelo

For non-Hungarian speakers this word means little. For those who do, it prompts a certain level of disgust. And with good reason. Agyvelo is pig brain. Traditionally spread on bread. Never mind how it looks, it in fact smells worse. But I’m of the opinion you don’t know till you have tried it. And now I have I can assure you it’s awful.

I hope this blog will help you on what to eat in Hungary, to enjoy the culinary as well as the architectural delights. If you need help with what to do in Budapest then look no further than my Ultimate Guide to Budapest.

Staying in Budapest

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Thank you for reading and hope you’ll enjoy the cuisine as much as I did.

Why spend Easter in Hungary in Holloko?

So what makes Holloko Hungary so special? It boils down to the place, its culture, and people, and in particular the efforts they make to keep their traditions alive in the old village. Is it possible they do only to keep the stream of tourists coming and the local economy booming? Very much so. If so is it even relevant? Not at all. It’s great to see a town seemingly untouched by time. And no better time than at Easter, when timeless Easter practices are observed.

Everyone flocks here to see the “sprinkling”, more on which I will divulge later. But it’s not just this Easter tradition that is kept. The town and it’s houses are maintained in an old fashion, all white washed with either flowers or ornaments hanging from the roofs. The streets are all pedestrianized adding to that pleasant feel. Each street is a pleasure to walk around and explore.

Easter in Hungary is Holloko.

Easter and me

I’ve never really gotten Easter. Perhaps that sounds a little unusual but I don’t think we in Ireland as I grew up ever did. I mean we understood the religious significance of it. We abstained from meat on Good Friday, and were subsequently rewarded with Spring Lamb for Sunday lunch on Easter Sunday. We swapped Easter eggs, which was always wonderful if chocolate was given up for lent.

But even then we were allowed a day off on St Patrick’s Day to indulge our vices. Don’t remember a day when a carnival rolled through the desert during those 40 days of abstinence from the bible. But growing up I always wondered what the bunnies and eggs was all about. No mention of that either in the bible. To me the Easter Bunny was always ridiculous, even as a young child.

As I grew older, I discovered the links to Eostre, the pagan goddess of fertility who originally was celebrated on these days. Rabbits and eggs are linked to her also. So with time I grew more disenchanted with the notions of Easter, especially as religion faded from my life. What was Easter really all about?

Then travelling introduced me to other traditions of Easter. Suddenly I saw how Easter could and probably should be observed. The quest to discover such traditions was in fact one of my motivations on this trip to Hungary. That quest now took me to Holloko, the best place to observe Easter in Hungary.

Our Easter in Holloko Hungary

We had stayed the night before in Hatvan, a pleasing town, even if it took me by surprise to realise that. More on that and one of my Hungarian road trips in my Hatvan blog. We rose early to breakfast in the SOS Motel where we had stayed, and then made the thirty minute drive to the town of Holloko in Nógrád County of North Hungary. If looking to book to stay in Holloko at Easter, you would need to book extremely early, and furthermore options are quite limited. The Castellum Hotel is rated as best in town. Holloko is certainly more of a day trip destination.

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Budapest to Holloko Hungary

Holloko is not the easiest place to reach, and it is in fact best to travel here by car. It’s around an hour twenty minutes driving from the city of Budapest, but if buses are your thing, then it can take well over two hours and some bus changes. Not ideal. Check the bus service times here.

However if you do have your own wheels it’s a pleasant drive, rapeseed fields are quite common in the lower lands, and brilliantly illuminate the landscape of the during the springtime. Holloko is located deep in the natural environment of the Cserhat Mountains and soon the landscape turned rolling, and vistas looked across wooded lands. Holloko translates to raven stone, and when you finally see the carved wooden raven that lies on the towns edge, you know that it’s close.

Now comes the warning. As Holloko is the best place to celebrate and spend Easter in the country, then you can rest assured you aren’t the only one going there. On any given day over the holiday thousands of people descend on the destination. We were directed from here to one of many fields surrounding the town, that today would serve as car parks, and would approach on foot. Being Easter the celebrations also don’t come for free and entry costs 4000 HUF per person, which is around €11 or $12. Check ahead at the Holloko village website for the program.

History of Holloko

Holloko village dates back to the 13th century, and it’s at this time first mention was made of its castle. The castle was built in response to the Mongol invasion. The village was captured by the Ottomans in the 16th century, and it was only at the end of the Ottoman era in 1683, did the present village spring up. The houses we see today were first built then, but their wooden nature meant that many had to rebuilt due to fires. The last major fires took place in the 20th century. The current population of the village is 387 people.

Holloko finds its way onto the heritage list as a living example of a rural village before the 20th century. It now contains 55 buildings which are all maintained as they were prior to the industrial revolution.

Traditional Dress of Hungary

But those streets and that history aren’t what brings Holloko to life. That accolade belongs to the townsfolk. What a glittering bunch they are. All play their part dressing up, from the animal-coat cloak-draped Gulyas (the cow herdsmen from which the popular dish goulash gets its name), to the regular folk of the town. The gents look great, waist coated and booted, but it’s very much the ladies that steal the thunder.

Their colourful and exuberant layered dresses contrast vividly against the black and white of the towns houses. These beautiful dresses actually consist of about seven layers to give them their lifted effect, and are said to cost in the region of around €1000. Suddenly you can see where your admission fee goes. Everyone throughout the whole village dresses up and takes part, making it just that little more special.

Easter Festival at Holloko Hungary

The entry allows you access to all the activities and a full-time table of events spans the day. When we arrived mass was already underway at the St Michael’s Church in the towns heart. The church is tiny so the mass takes place outside. The mass is followed by a procession through the town, which was our first interaction with many of the colorfully clad country folk.

Following the mass at 1130, the crowds descend from all angles of the town and converge outside the church for what most have come to see, the tradition of sprinkling. See my section on that below.

Throughout the day there is much more entertainment, much of which takes place at the bandstand near the entrance to the town. Here dance and singing troupes will introduce the traditional dances such as czardas, as well as songs local to the area.

To experience this in a more personal setting the well near the end of the town is throughout the day the location of more song and dance. It’s also a good place to see the sprinkling in action.

The Sprinkling at Holloko

Besides sounding like a horror movie title and looking not unlike a sadistic ritual, the sprinkling is anything but. It’s a time-honoured Hungarian Easter tradition. Finding its root in pagan times, the process of throwing a bucket of water over a young maiden was to ensure her fertility, the water ensuring she won’t wilt. With time the tradition has changed and cheap perfume is now sprinkled on the heads of maidens of all ages come Easter in Hungary. This is observed throughout every village in the country.

It is expected that the man in return will receive painted eggs, a cake, or a shot of palinka (a local fruit brandy, and strong stuff). Looks like the ladies come out worse come Easter Sunday and Easter Monday. However some still prefer the ancient ways, and it can be taken a little further by hiring the local fire service to show a man’s affections for a certain lady. Not a good time for a cat to get stuck up a tree.

But back to Holloko. Sprinkling is done with buckets and no one is too safe. It’s the highlight of the day and everyone descends on the church and well at the allotted time to see the action. It is important to be at the symbol below to get the best view. There are two of these in the village (at the church and the well), so scope them out when you arrive.

Top Tip- Go to the Well

It’s somewhat quieter at the well side, and we personally got lost in the crowd at the church and didn’t see much. We then moved ahead of the crowd to the well and here we got a perfect front row viewpoint. Personally I didn’t understand much, the guys chanted an Easter poem, the girls screamed and ran, and one unlucky one was caught. She was then held by each arm, by a guy on either side. This was the bit that was semi ritual and I felt I was in the world of the Wicker Man. She was then drenched by a few buckets of water. It’s all done in good spirits though, but beware, as once this is done, any girls around the village are fair game to get sprinkled and the same guys walk the streets looking for maidens.

Easter Entertainment at Holloko

Besides the sprinkling there is plenty of other entertainment around. The bandstand right at the entrance to the town is the spot to see those traditional Hungarian dances and song. The traditional dance is very unique, my favourite certainly being the tap dance performed by the men where not only the feet tap, but the hands are used to tap feet and knees, in a show of skill. We were even treated to a dance off.

The ladies have their own routines and one song was particularly entrancing. Performed at the well area it was one of the highlights of my visit.

There are innumerable activities going on through the day such as egg painting, pottery, learning whip skills with the gulyas, and many others. Egg painting has major significance in Hungary, the eggs being a symbol of eternal life and the red colours the boiled eggs are painted in are symbolic of the blood of Christ. Alas the number of children in the queues forced me to restrain myself from trying it.

Things to do in Holloko

Easter somewhat curtails the ability to take part in the regular activities of the village, owing to the sheer crowds. But that is of course counteracted by all the extra seasonal fare.

Of course walking the village streets itself is a worthwhile sight. The queues to the heritage sites such as the village museum, doll museum, and the post museums were daunting all day, so we missed out. The old schoolhouse was only large enough to hold about eight students, and the classroom recreates one of the 19th century.

Nina, my daughters favourite place in Holloko was the playground attached to the toy store, Paloc Jatszahaz. All the toys were wooden including the hand wound carousel, and the games included ring toss, horseshoe toss, and a whole host of other non mechanical things. It was quite enchanting to see how kids played in bygone times, before multiplayer was invented.

For a more adult form of playing, check out the wine cellar, showcasing local products from the region.

St Martin Catholic Church

St Martin’s Church is the lower towns biggest landmark. And yet it’s tiny. It’s black steeple and roof set well against the white stone walls, but stepping inside makes you realise that there is hardly space for twenty people. I guess this is why they hold the mass outside. There is a rather intriguing crucifix at the churches entrance though. The church was built in 1889.

Holloko Castle

In the hills above Holloko the castle ruins are the perfect excursion from the village. It’s a steep hike up if not a long one, with the steps near the town well taking you up in fifteen minutes. The castle again was the centre of much spectacle, this time more medieval in tone. The archery and the sword fighting was to be expected, but the huge guy making arrowheads the traditional way with fire, thongs, and a big hammer was fascinating. The guy as well wouldn’t have looked out-of-place in a blacksmiths around 500 years ago, or a Game of Thrones set.

The castle itself is semi-intact, and is accessed by stairs to get past the outer walls. The good thing about this is of course the views of the surrounding countryside which get ever better as you climb higher into the castle. The castle can be visited without seeing the village for 900 HUF, but why would you want to do that. If you do visit during Easter expect huge crowds again at the castle, where the stairs have constant queues up and down, and the central tower took twenty minutes to access. The best thing throughout is the views of the wooded countryside and the village below.

Holloko Castle Exhibits

The castle interior does have some worthwhile exhibits such as the weapon room, the chapel and displays on old furniture. One of the biggest queues I found (and joined out of curiosity) turned out to be to one to look down the garderobe. Look out down below! The best room in the castle featured waxwork figures of 13th century inhabitants of the castle, all dressed in attire from the period.

Dining in Holloko

With all that exertion up and down hills and through the village, you are bound to build up a hunger.

Holloko doesn’t have too many restaurants but Miksrath and Muskati Vendeglo are very highly rated. However with thousands of other hungry people storming about the place, you will be doing well to get a seat. But fear not as other options galore come with the Easter festival. Stalls are open throughout selling much fare and especially baked goods. Street food is often my favourite anyway, so I was probably happier. Hot dogs (not too local I know) were great alongside the local flat bread called Langallo, served fresh from a clay oven.

Those with a sweet tooth (yes me) are well served too by the bakery, with Retes, a Hungarian variant on strudel, stuffed with jam or cottage cheese and Csoroge, long deep-fried parcels of dough, guaranteeing you will give up on that diet for the day. Not that I would ever diet on holidays though.

Conclusion on Holloko Hungary for Easter

Holloko is the ideal place to spend Easter in Hungary, with local traditions and food being a big draw. It’s a beautiful village set high in the Hungarian mountains, and an ideal day trip from Budapest.

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Where Else to Visit in Hungary

Start the trip with a stay in Galway City. The compact centre means that it can be fully explored with a few days, before heading out to the open countryside. Galway is known as the gateway to the west, the last urban centre before reaching the wild landscape beyond. Base yourself in the centre or out by the sea, enjoy the restaurants and pubs and make some memories.

If you are not quite sure why Galway rings a bell, maybe its due to the song the Galway Girl. It’s lively, traditional, comforting, yet wild and modern at the same time. A bit like the place that provided its inspiration.

Where to stay on a Galway Trip

The most traditional places to stay in Galway are in the city’s heart or Salthill. In high season, accommodation is quite expensive with rates comparative to that in Dublin. The G hotel, The Hardiman and The Galmont are among the most fashionable properties. For a more economical option (or those seeking Galway’s night life) the Eyre Square Hotel and Jury’s are perfect.

Salthill repertoire of hotels is impressive, with a string of excellent 4 stars such as the Ardilaun, Clybaun Hotel, the Galway Bay Hotel, and the Salthill Hotel. B&B’s occupy many houses in the area, and rightly so, as the tourist industry thrives here for domestic and foreign travellers.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links such as this booking.com link, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Or in the case of 2021, get me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Things to do in Galway City

Galway is a small compact city with a population of 80,000. With a high student populace, its young, vibrant and renowned for its night life. Busy shopping streets by day, turn to rambunctious party streets by night. This reaches its heights for the August bank holiday weekend, when the Galway Races take over the town. It’s quite possibly the most fun you could ever have on this party island. Streets heave with people and beer is drank by the truck load. However the city has its charm throughout the year.

Galway sadly had a misadventure as the European City of Culture in 2020 with most events cancelled, but naturally this was not of its own doing. We all know what we can blame for that one.

Walk Galway City Centre Streets

We start our adventure on Shop Street, without our car. Of course Galway is best explored on foot, as with any city. For the sake of this blog we are presupposing you are using Galway as a base. Besides Shop Street is pedestrianised. Never a good call to take ones road trip up those.

Galway’s heart runs through High Street, Shop Street and Quay Street. While all the usual high street stores are represented, so too are Ireland’s finest crafts. Aran Sweaters, Claddagh Rings and weavers all give good value for the visiting buck.

Along the well trodden route there are points of note too. The Lynch Memorial Window is nefarious as the place where the town’s mayor hung his own son in 1493, for murdering a visitor. Further along Lynch’s Castle, which now operates as an AIB bank, is a fortified town house built in the 16th century. The Lynch’s were one of 14 powerful Norman families who governed Galway at the time. Worth a photo too is the bench hosting Oscar Wilde and Eduard Wilde. Why not join in their chat. It’s bound to be interesting.

People Watch at Eyre Square

At Galway’s heart is Eyre Square, an excellent place to meet up. Though officially known as the John F Kennedy Memorial Park (he made a speech here in 1963), its been hard to break from its old moniker. The square is surrounded by bar and restaurants, and hosts a number of attractions both permanent and temporary. Check out the unusual Quintessential Fountain and Browne Doorway. The renaissance doorway once adorned the Browne House of 1627. It’s design features the houses coat of arms. It was removed in 1905 to it’s current location. In winter Galway Christmas Market takes over the area selling local and ornamental fare. Eyre Square is also the location of my favourite mural in Galway on its North east side.

Eat at Supermacs in Galway City

It’s rare for me to recommend a fast food restaurant but Supermacs deserves its plaudits. Supermac’s started in 1978 in Ballinasloe in Galway. More recently they took on the might of McDonald’s in a court and won, for the right to use their name in the US. If you are looking for fast food in Ireland, Supermacs burgers have that proper beef taste and the chunky chips are real potato. Try the 5oz burger or the Mighty Mac with some garlic and cheese fries.

Try the Sicilian street food at U Liotru

Despite all the excellent Irish restaurants in the city centre, this little cafe on the quiet back street Abbeygate Street Lower is what won over my heart (aka belly). The string of Italian customers coming in and out is the first sign of encouragement. Then there’s the arancini. The large selection are all made by hand at the time by the passionate owner. It’s definitely a place to slow down after a lot of walking. But don’t use your whole appetite on the arancini. Cause the only thing better in Galway is the cannoli. The best I’ve tried outside of Sicily. Words don’t do them proper justice.

Get a bit Tipsy in Galway’s Pubs

By night Shop Street and Quay Street are the nexus of the street life I spoke of. Having a pint in The Quays is a quintessential Galwegian experience, but there are many excellent other pub such as O’Connell’s, The Front Door, and the Liquor Lounge. Most serve excellent Irish fare as well, cause if you are going on the session, its best not to do it on an empty stomach. Galway isn’t a place for “just one or two” either. On the weekend of the Galway Races these streets are thronged end to end with patrons, frivolously spending their winnings. Or in my case, drowning my sorrows and forgetting my losses at the track.

On a regular night you wont have to look far for entertainment either. Live music is a regular feature of the weekly lineups. Whether its rock bands or traditional Irish you are looking for, look no further. The best pubs in Galway for live music are An Pucan, Seven Bridgestreet, Taaffes Bar and The Crane Bar. Salthill’s O’Connors has featured many famous faces of the Irish music scene over the years too. You might just wander into a session with Ed Sheeran or Shane McGowan.

See Europe’s Newest Cathedral at Galway Cathedral

A short stroll from the city will take you across the Salmon Weir Bridge and in full view of Galway’s modern cathedral. The renaissance style building was only opened in 1965 on what was the site of an old prison. This makes it the last great stone cathedral opened in Europe. On size, its the city’s most impressive building. But don’t stop and only look at the twin-towered, green-domed exterior. Inside the cathedral is bright and airy. The grey stone contrasts wonderfully with the stain glass windows, rose windows, and art of the sanctuary and dome.

Go Medieval at Saint Nicholas Collegiate Church

Saint Nicholas Collegiate Church is the largest medieval church in Ireland still in continuous use. Believed to have opened around 1320 it is also the oldest building in Galway. It was founded by the Normans, and a tomb inside known as the Crusader is from this time. Christopher Columbus prayed here in 1320, before heading to the New World. It was extended somewhat in the 16th century, and the baptismal font (which is still used to this day) was added.

Several motifs and statues around the church are of great interest. There are a number of faceless statues within, defaced by the Cromwellian soldiers that used the church as a stable in 1652. The outer walls have a series of animal motifs, with a lion, a dragon and an ape, and also two mermaids. The top of the church has a number of gargoyles and horse heads. Worthy of exploration too is the graveyard.

The church is open daily from 9am to 7pm, during normal times.

Walk in Squares around the Quadrangle

North of the city is the National University of Ireland in Galway. While the university has sprawled out, its first inspection was in a building known as the Quadrangle. Known then as Queen’s College it opened in 1849, it was built in limestone in a Tudor Gothic architectural style. Christ Church in Oxford University was its principal influence. The building is Galway’s finest structure. While it functions predominantly as offices, it can be visited to walk around and admire.

Feel the Culture in The Latin Quarter

The joke going around Galway is that the people are nearly more Spanish than Irish. Galway has always had a strong relationship with Spain and Portugal as a result of its port, and the district around has become known as the Spanish Quarter. I’ll bet those tanned sailors looked good a few centuries back. Including one superstar sailor known as Christopher Columbus.

The area is the cultural heart of the city, with bars and restaurants lining the cobblestone streets. The most aesthetic of the streets is Kirwan’s lane a medieval street of stone buildings. It’s flanked by stone buildings that have recently seen a restoration. Some of these are of historical note, the Slate Nunnery is now Browne’s Pub and an old theatre built by Richard Martin, where Theobald Wolfe Tone once performed.

Of further historical interest nearby is The Fisheries Watchtower, an 1853 watchtower, now a museum with guided tours of its fishery related collectibles. A mere street away, the Hall of the Red Earl is a 13th century site with walkways over the remains of the building. It was the site of a huge architectural find.

March through the Spanish Arch

The Spanish Arch is one of Galway’s most recognisable features. It was an addition to the 16th century walls of the city in 1584 to give access to Spanish parade beyond. Once it housed soldiers and cannons manned the top of it, ready to protect the city. Although originally known as the head of the wall, the number of Spanish sailors that docked on the Corrib at this point led to the misnomer sticking. Nowadays it can merely be passed through to walk in the footsteps.

Explore the City History at the Galway City Museum

The Galway City Museum was once housed in Comerford House at the Spanish Arch but has moved to a new purpose built premises since 2007. All of its artifacts are connected with Galway specifically. It’s focus is on maritime, farming and military exhibitions. Claddagh and its rings are the stars of the show, and a few Galway Hookers will seduce you. Galway Hookers are a traditional type of fishing boat used in Galway Bay. the boats were developed seas and are defined by their black hulls and red sails. The Galway City Museum can currently be toured virtually here.

Take The Long Walk- get some fresh air while crossing off the 20 best things to do in Galway City

The best place to escape the confines of the busy city streets is the long walk that stretches out along the mouth of the River Corrib. Its a breezy short stroll to the end. If your lucky you might just catch a glimpse of a Galway Hooker.

Explore The Claddagh

Galway is at the heart of traditional Irish crafts. On Shop Street the tale of how Claddagh rings are made is brought to life at the Legend of the Claddagh Ring. But the real community behind those rings is the Claddagh, across the Corrib from the Long Walk. Claddagh rings are based on a Celtic motif and feature two hands in the band, holding a heart, and topped by a crown. It’s a delicate combination and symbolises friendship, loyalty and love. Worn facing outward on the right hand it indicates someone is single, while inward on the left means one is married.

The area nowadays is a far cry from its fishing roots in the 5th century, and unfortunately not much is left in a historical way. But the rings live on. A causeway links the area to Mutton Island, whose only inhabitants are a broad range of sea faring birds.

Spend the Day at the Seaside in Salthill

Galway’s famous sea side resort is Salthill. Salthill Promenade stretches for kilometres along the Atlantic coast, with the lively Salthill town behind. If you are looking for a base in Galway with good hotels, restaurants and the direct line of sight to the beach, this is it. Salthill is another classic Victorian sea side resort in the ilk of Bray (see my recent post on the Bray to Greystones Cliff walk). Salthill has enough to keep the kids happy too with a fairground, mini golf, parks and playground. For the wetter days the Seapoint leisure centre, cinema and Atlantaquaria will help to take the boredom away.

We were hosted at the Atlantic Lodge, a guesthouse embracing social distancing. At no point had we any contact with our hosts. It’s not an Irish welcome but apt in the times, and warmly reassuring. A succession of codes and key safes got us into our room. Breakfast magically appeared outside our door in the morning! While it wasn’t a full Irish, the continental choices did set us perfectly up for the day, and I’ve never felt safer in any hospitality establishment all year.

Restaurants are not in short supply with establishments such as the Black Cat, La Collina, and The Galleon offering a broad spectrum of dishes. Our 2020 visit took us to The Galleon. Finding a table in the midst of a pandemic is a challenge. Sometimes it works out well though, as in this case it took us to the Galleon. They specialise in comfort food, well prepared, and we were both relaxed and well fed there.

Stay dry at the Galway Atlantaquaria

Besides having a pretty cool name, the Atlantaquaria in Salthill is the perfect escape from the rain on a wet day in Galway. Yes it does rain a lot down here on the west coast. Situated on Salthill Promenade, the aquarium has 100’s of species over two floors. It provides an insight into the marine life that have a natural habitat in the waters around Ireland. They include sharks, jellyfish, stingray, clown fish and bass among many others. Non-fishy highlights include a 60-foot skeleton of a Fin Whale, a Galway Hooker Boat, and a Bearna dugout canoe, that is 5500 years old. Admission is €13 for an adult and €8.50 for a child. It’s an enjoyable hour or two and provided a good distraction from the storm outside for us.

Do Backflips from the Blackrock Diving Tower

On an ocean battered end of Salthill Promenade, the Blackrock Diving Tower is a must visit. It ranks top as both its most iconic structure and its most exciting. Whether your intention is to climb the stairs and perform theatrics into the ocean, or simply laugh and wow at others shenanigans, its more than worth a fraction of your time. The first diving board was set up here in 1895, but the present structure replaced it in 1942. Even on the day we visited during a storm, the tower was a major attraction. One of the most fun things to do in Galway City.

Cruise the Corrib River the most relaxing thing to do in Galway City

From Wood Quay in the heart of Galway the Corrib Princess takes passengers on a cruise of the Corrib River. It’s Ireland’s largest lake, and the 60 or 90 minute route takes you by its scenic banks. Keep an eye out for the spectacular ivy ruins of Menlo Castle. The cruise is priced at €17 for an adult, and if you are in Galway to live it up, there’s a full bar service on board.

Have a Punt at the Galway Races

Without a doubt this is the most expensive week of the year to visit Galway. Even less so in doubt is that it is the funnest. The races run for the week from the last Monday in July through the August bank holiday weekend. The races have been a tradition since 1869, and with each year their popularity grows. It’s best to book your tickets in advance through the Galway Races website, in particular for the Wednesday and Thursday of the week, when the Galway plate and Ladies Day are held respectively. Even more scarce are hotels so get in early.

The races are held at Ballybrit race track about 8 km outside the city. Thankfully there’s a bus shuttle service from Eyre Square each day of the races. The service costs €10 return, and leaves at 3 pm Monday-Wednesday and Friday, and at 11 am Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Expect huge queues for this service too, but there are enough buses to shuttle all.

Take Some Day Trips from Galway City

Within reach of Galway City are some of the most beautiful places in Ireland. All are easily reached as day trips from the city, and Galway is the perfect base for it. Dunguaire Castle is the most photographed castle in Ireland (its not difficult to see why) and lies on the edge of County Clare and the Burren. More on that region coming to Carpediemeire soon.

Heading west from Galway travel to the magical land of Connemara. Ireland’s largest Gaeltacht (Irish speaking area) it has the Connemara National Park at its heart. Mountains, lakes, lively towns, and wild wild ocean. Clifden, the Sky Road, Lough Inagh and Kylemore Abbey are absolutely unmissable in this part of the county. Superb hiking awaits in the national park, with the popular Diamond Hill hike offering unrivalled views.

To the north of Galway is Menlo Castle, and within 45 minutes of the city is Cong. This is one of the most visited locations in Ireland, owing in no small part to the movie The Quiet Man which was set here. It still retains much of its old charm. If you want to trade up to the ultimate luxury hotel in Ireland, Ashford Castle is a medieval and Victorian castle-turned-hotel and often ranks among the best in the world. Spoil yourself and splash out on the €2000 a night stateroom.

Use Galway as a springboard for the Aran Islands

The Aran Islands are a trio of islands off of Galway in the Atlantic. As day trips from Galway go, there are few better. Aran Islands Ferries run a year round service from Galway City with one departure each morning at 9:30 from Galway, and evening at 18:00 from Inis Meain. Boats actually depart from Rossaveal Port 40 km west of the city (there is the option to drive and park there), but a connecting bus service runs from the companies office on Forster Street. Ferry crossings take in the region of 45 minutes and cost €30 for an adult.

Summary of Things to do in Galway City

Undoubtedly Galway is full of enough things, both cultural and fun to justify a weekend break, or a stop on a round Ireland trip. It’s nightlife has to be experienced (and possibly regretted the next day) and then there’s more than enough to see during the day before you get to go back to the pub. Salthill is a perfect place to be for those travelling with families, but also a more relaxed location for all not wishing to stay in the centre. That’s all before you get to the amazing countryside and history that lies on the road just beyond.

Private Tours of the Best Things to do in Galway

More in the West of Ireland

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too.

If there’s one walk that’s the perfect day trip from Dublin, then it may well be the Bray to Greystones cliff walk. Adored by generations of all ages, and practically a institution at this stage. Its route travels some of the best scenery of the east coast, past rock faces and the blue Irish Sea. It’s a walk that should be experienced to the fullest. To really live it and enjoy it, read on.

This is not just a mere coastal walk. The two towns that it connects each have their own claim as the more famous in County Wicklow.

Bray’s fame is as a seaside town, one it has had since the 1850’s when the train line was extended. Hotels sprang up, and the stony beach of Bray became famous with holidaymakers for over a century. Towering above the town is Bray Head at the end of the promenade. International travel saw its decline as warmer and sandier climates came into favour. But Bray still retains that seaside charm, as daytrippers descend for its stretch of sea, bars and amusements. The annual Bray airshow is also the premier aviation event in the Irish calendar. It may well be the Brighton of Ireland.

Greystones on the other hand is more modern. It’s fame is firmly centered on its growth over the last few decades as one of the trendiest towns on the east coast. It is the foodie capital of County Wicklow, with a significant number of restaurants for each of its 18000 people. Greystones coastline also features more traditional sandy beaches than those in its counterpart. For this reason it’s the perfect place to end the 8 km trail, though either way can be walked.

The Allure of the Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk

Away from the two prominent towns on each end, we get to the real reason we are here. The cliff walk Bray to Greystones follows one of the most scenic coastal routes in Ireland’s east. The walk is the perfect summer’s day activity for those looking to escape the city, and is suited for all with a moderate fitness level. Those looking for a greater challenge can combine it with the more vertical Bray Head Cliff Walk. Besides the magnificent views over the Irish Sea, the trail provides one of the best opportunities to see some of Ireland’s marine life. Dolphins, Porpoises and Basking Sharks can all be spotted in the sparkling waters below.

Directions to Bray

The walk can be attempted from either direction, but is somewhat easier to follow by moving south. The proper way to do the walk is using the DART, the light rail system running from North to South through Dublin and finishing in Greystones. City centre train stations include Connolly, Tara Street, and Pearse Street. This 30 minute journey isn’t just about getting from A to B, it’s an experience in itself. Hugging the coast in its latter parts near Bray, it’s Ireland’s finest train journey, with rousing views. Following the walk the train is usually taken back from Greystones’ Church Road that runs through the heart of the town. Should you wish to do the cliff walk from Greystones to Bray, it is the last stop on the route.

Travelling by car to Bray is an alternative option. However it should be noted that in summer and at weekends, that approach roads to the town are often heavily backlogged. The journey from Dublin can easily take an hour if not more. As long as you are prepared for that, it’s a 20 km journey from Dublin along the N11. Junction 5 leads to Bray north and signage (and the traffic) will lead you from there. There is a significant number of parking spaces in the town, particularly along the promenade and near Bray Head. keep an eye on the signage where you park, some zones offer 2 hours free parking, and additional hours are charged at between €0.30 and €1.

Some Facts about the Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk

• The price of an all day return ticket to Bray from Dublin’s Connolly station is €6.75.
• There is a large car park all along Bray’s promenade with very modest all day pricing rates
• The trail is about 8.5 km in length one way to Greystones
• The walk time from Bray to Greystones is generally around 2 hours and the elevation gain is around 180 metres.
• The walk is perfect for families. Some younger kids may bemoan the length though. There are steps at times, which make it unsuitable for wheelchairs.
• Hiking boots aren’t essential, but a good pair of sports shoes is recommended. The trail can be muddy in places.
• Bring water, snacks, a waterproof jacket (it is Ireland), sunscreen, and your camera
• One of the highlight of the trail is the wildlife. As well as Dolphins, Black Harbour Porpoises and Basking Sharks, common lizards (Ireland’s only reptile) can be seen sunning themselves on the rock faces.
• Sea birds whose habitat is the Irish east coast include Fulmars, Cormorants, and Terns.
• The best months to experience the Cliff walk are May through October, but it is possible to do year round. .
• Remember to leave no trace.

Step by Step on the Bray to Greystones Walk

We travelled by DART from the south suburbs of Dublin. Bray is a busy town even in the midst of a pandemic so its best to come prepared for that, even in summer. As you arrive in Bray, an alleyway running by some small shops then takes you towards the promenade. If you need a bit of caffeine to set you up for the walk then I have to recommend CarpeDiem Coffee and wine bar. Of course if you want to start with some wine I can happily recommend that too.

Bray Promenade runs for 1 km along the sea front, and besides that aforementioned stony beach there’s much more to look at. A stretch of green takes you towards Bray Head passing a beautiful bandstand and colourful beach huts. If you are doing the walk in reverse towards Bray, pubs such as Wilde Bar and the Martello Bar have beer gardens opening out onto Bray seafront. The Wilde bar is part of the Strand Hotel which was once the home of Oscar Wilde.

If you simply want to cool down, Teddy’s Ice Cream is on hand. Teddy’s is an institution on the east coast, and their 99 is an experience that must be had if you are only visiting Ireland. The mildly pleasing Sea Life Bray Aquarium might help if you failed to spot any marine life out on the sea.

Bray Head

The cliff walk from Bray to Greystones starts nearly directly at the end of the promenade. To the right the optional trail up Bray Head features a stiff climb over rough terrain. The reward for those taking this route is the wide ranging views from Bray Head Cross over the Wicklow Mountains National Park and Dublin. This is as close as it gets to the Christ the Redeemer statue in Ireland. Nearby is the Raheen-A-Cluig church from the 12th century, a place with its own unique history of smugglers, ghosts and healing wells.

The Cliff Walk

After a mild increase in elevation, the path begins. It runs along the same path as the railway, with a winding trail hugging the edge of the cliff. The railway line was designed by Brunel, the famed engineer, and opened in 1856. For all Brunel’s mastery though, the track suffered some tunnel collapses due to coastal erosion and had to move further inland. One of the collapsed tunnels can still be seen. In 1867 the collapse claimed two lives. The trail demands little of you, so you get to focus your attentions on enjoying the views, and hopefully spotting playful dolphins or lounging lizards.

All along the way a carpet of seasonal wildflowers lines the path. There are more distractions en-route too. The vantage points of the train whizzing past below. The ruined redbrick remains of the Lord Meath Lodge. This was built at the time the coastal path opened, as the trail was said to cross the lands of Killruddery house, the domicile of William Barbazon aka Lord Meath. The lodge served as a toll house and one penny was charged from everyone who walked the trail beyond the point. Now its mostly in ruins besides a gable and a stairs that climbs to a higher vantage point.

Not far from this point is a little inlet known as the Brandy Hole, used by smugglers to land. Reputedly there was a cave which they used to bring in goods inland, but it no longer exists.

Greystones

The final stretch of the walk approaches Greystones. The land flattens to be surrounded by meadows which shine golden in the summer sun. Urban development does take some of the gloss off the walk in this section, as tall wire fences lead you towards Greystones Marina. Below the sands of Greystones North Beach are a tempting distraction on the warmest of days.

Greystones Harbour Marina is a welcome sight as you approach the town. It’s not exactly clear where to go from this point, and two options present, the first along the Marine Road, and then by La Touche Road and Place to Church Road. A shorter option is up Trafalgar Road to Church Road. From here its a short walk to the train station.

Where to Eat in Greystones

Of course, you don’t want to leave Greystones in a hurry. The place is foodie heaven. The first stop if you haven’t been has to be the Happy Pear, one of the greatest Irish culinary success stories. Bring vegetarian food to the masses is their greatest achievement. Even the most carnivorous among us (ME) was blown away by their offerings. However if meat is a must, The Hungry Monk, Bochelli, the Fat Fox are just a few suggestions. Whatever your preference of cuisine, Greystones is up to the task.

If you arrive with a sweet tooth La Creperie Pierre Grise in the Harbour might be just the answer. As we discovered on the end of our walk in 2020. Its crepes are fluffy and iced coffees really hit the spot after all the exertions.

What Else to do Near Bray and Greystones

Having already piqued your curiosity about the greedy landlords that presided over the trail in the 19th century, its only fair I recommend a visit to Killruddery House. One of Ireland’s finest paladin mansions, its even better than the nearby Powerscourt in this writers opinion. The 17th century gardens are a thing of beauty, and its many features include weekend markets, a farm shop, and a café. The gardens are modeled on the gardens at Versailles. One of its most unique features is a Sylvian theater, a natural amphitheater.

Tours run during the summer of the house which is still occupied by the current Lord Meath and his family. They recently celebrated 400 years in the house. A walk through is a fascinating walk through opulence and their history. The glass house is the tours center point, which was inspired after a visit to the magnificent, but now only a memory Crystal Palace in London.

Where to Stay Near the Bray or Greystones Cliff Walk

While Bray and Greystones might not be traditionally considered overnight destinations, they do have a few options available. Generally when one stays in Wicklow it is to enjoy views of the countryside. The history of the Strand Hotel in Bray shades it on its counterparts, while in Greystones hotels are more sparse, with the Glenview Hotel and Druids Glen in nearby Newtown Mount Kennedy the closest purveyors of fine luxury.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Guided Walks in Wicklow

If organising and finding your own way to some of Wicklow’s walks aren’t of interest to you, there’s help at hand. Get Your Guide has a number of guided walks run by reputable and experienced local companies.

Other Walks in Dublin and Wicklow

Most of my Irish hiking is on the east coast in Dublin and the Wicklow. For some travel guides on hikes there check out the following articles.

30 Best walks in Dublin

The Spinc Glendalough

Djouce Mountain

Poolbeg Lighthouse Walk

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Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lockdowns are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and now protect domestic trips also.

Have you walked from Bray to Greystones? Let me know your experiences in the comments below.

So what is it about visiting Bruges that enticed me so much, and after two days made me so disappointed to leave. In a word, everything. It’s one of the smaller cities I’ve visited recently with the population of the inner city being around 20000. This helps to give the place a calming relaxed atmosphere; one that belies its size. That coupled with its canals, its medieval buildings and pedestrianized streets ensure that a stay is very fulfilling for the cultural traveller.

The following blog is a 20 minutes read.

Why Come to Bruges in Winter

I’m going to be honest, Bruges didn’t really enter my radar until the movie of In Bruges did. It’s not a movie for the sensitive, but being Irish the humour was right up my street. But moving away from Ray (the movies character), who didn’t have much in the way of good things to say about Bruges, the city was presented as a waterside masterpiece.

Much of my wanderlust has been born from my love of movies and in Bruges, this was most definitely true. It didn’t take me two days to fall for its charms. It took me all of ten minutes after I disembarked the train and made my first amble into the city. If you have any doubts why I feel so about the city, take a look at blog, a 50 photos of Bruges why I fell in love with the city.

Two days or a weekend will  let you see a lot of what the city has to offer, but it’s the kind of place you could spend a few more, as it would be easy to slow down to the pace of the city. So many backstreets warrant walking down, and there quite a few museums and galleries. I couldn’t imagine getting bored here, it’s as perfect a place to do nothing as I have ever been.

Travelling to Bruges in Winter

Bruges in West Flanders is located 97 Km from Brussels the Belgian capital. Its served by a good road network naturally, however, bear in mind that much of the centre is pedestrianized if coming by car. I opted to come by train from Brussels which takes roughly one hour. A return ticket between the city’s cost me €29.60 for second class. Bruges is also easily reached from Holland. The train station is located 1.5km from the centre, and my suggestion is to walk, the alternative being a taxi.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

History of Bruges

Bruges is a Viking city founded in the 8th century. It quickly grew as a port and by the 12th century canals and medieval city walls had been added, to a now burgeoning metropolis. During the subsequent centuries Bruges was the commercial and trade capital of North Europe, and a hub for much of the continent. Many of the great cities of Europe constructed houses here, signifying its importance. A great many of the wonderful buildings that I will soon introduce you to were financed during this time.

The silting up of the main waterway serving the city, the Zwin Channel, caused a massive drop off in its fortunes. The population suffered severe decline. But the misfortune of one is often to the benefit of another, as with a lack of funding to develop, the city has been preserved in time, with much of its original buildings still intact. The 20th century brought tourism as the main industry and the city we now stroll through, is one that knows its place firmly in this modern-day. The historic centre of Brugge is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site

Why Visit Bruges in Winter

As mentioned before Bruges is ideal to visit in winter. It does see its fair share of tourists for the Christmas markets (as any city does), but its incomparable to the summer. As evening falls and the few day trip tourists leave it’s even more romantic. Visiting outside of December will allow you to see the city as it was seen all those centuries ago, a peaceful canal side city. The fairy tale houses are lit up, and the reflections on the canals are dream like. It’s the perfect way to warm your heart on a cold night.

Of course the cold is something that has to be contended with come winter. In December and January the average temperature is around 4 degrees Celsius. There are a good number of wet and possibly snowy days around this time of year too. Dressing sensibly is the way to go, with layers. especially if spending lots of time outdoors. On my visit in January, I didn’t find the weather particularly cold, except for the nights.

Top things to see in Bruges in Winter

Christmas in Bruges

1. Visit the Bruges Christmas Market

The markets are undoubtedly the best things to do in Bruges in December. The main market square is also the main location of the Xmas market, with stalls lining the side and all the streets that lead outwards. As with all Christmas markets the stalls focus on crafts and clothes, with the bonus of waffles, chocolate and Belgian beer to wash it all down.

Bruges like many European towns and cities transforms into a Christmas wonderland for the month leading up to the main event. For a town that already looks it was the inspiration for the little Christmas houses of my imagination, there is hardly a more apt place to celebrate it.

Bruges Christmas market runs from November 26th until 9th January this year.

A nod to global warming

Traditionally Bruges had an ice rink in the centre of the square. However, as a result of global warming, and the huge energy required to create it, the decision has been made to cancel it. The same applies to the Ice Sculpture Festival that was once a huge attraction of the city in winter. A small price to pay for the greater good.

2. Go Ice Skating

Ice skating fans fear not. A new environmentally friendly rink has been built at the Lake of Love aka Minnewater. It’s still an artificial rink, but now in the stunning surroundings of the lake. There is also a winter bar for those with two left skating feet like me.

3. Follow the trail of the Christmas Lights Festival

The christmas lights festival tracks two routes through the city. One leads to Minnewater Park, and the other ends to ‘t Zand, with both starting in Stationsplein. The warm lights lend a Christmas glow to the historical Bruges attractions, and there are several Christmas Trees along the route.

Canals and Lakes

4. Marvel at the Bruges Canals

Bruges unsurprisingly takes its name from the word bridge, and there are a total of 80 that cross the canals linking all parts of the city. The larger canals are on the circumference of the inner city, with smaller more beautiful ones dissecting the centre. The canals are the main selling point of the city, and a walk along any of them will provide no end of beautiful and picturesque sights. There is no right way or wrong way to see the canals and no correct path to take. There are some things and places which do deserve your attention though.

5. Take a Boat Tour of the Canals

Boat tours of the canals run from six locations within the city and a tour costs around €8 and lasts in the region of 40 minutes. The most popular mooring spots are at Boottochten and Rozenhoedkaai. The tours open your mind to parts of the city that simply cannot be seen from the streets. Boat tours may not be in operation however throughout the winter. They predominantly just run at weekends when the weather is amenable.

6. Stare in awe at Rozenhoedkaai

Rozenhoedkaai is the most photographed part of the city and justifiably so. The canal widens and turns on a bend to open up a view to the Belfry. The high medieval tower coupled with the brick buildings to the fore, presents a glorious view. It’s perfect at any time of day or night, by day the location can be a hive of activity, and by night the lights of the buildings twinkle and illuminate the canals below in a perfect reflection.

A walk along Djiver will bring you along one of the most beautiful stretches of the canals and the bridge at the end is another perfect place to come at night for those awe-inspiring reflections.

7. Feel the peacefulness at Wijngaardplein

One place worth visiting and that you will come across if you take my advice and walk the scenic route from the train station, is the Wijngaardplein. This area is the home of a bevy of swans and the houses of the Begijnhof. Be sure to seek out the unusual double horse head drinking fountain in the middle of the nearby street.

8. Grab a shot for instagram at Bonifacius Bridge

Going past the entrance to the Groeninge Museum off Dijver Street will take you into the Arents courtyard. The courtyard has an interesting series of sculptures on the four horsemen of the apocalypse by Rik Poot. On your right is the fairy tale like Heren van Gruuthuse, where if Rapunzel were to appear and let down her hair it wouldn’t surprise you.  

Continue on past this and you will come to another canal in a secluded part of the city. The Bonifacius Bridge spans this canal and is one of Bruges’ most aesthetic. The buildings on the canal side or built in a style long-lost and their individuality makes this area one of Bruges’ most romantic.

9. Stroll along Groenerei Canal and Meestraat bridge

My favourite other stretch of canal was the one that took me to my hotel. The Groenerei canal runs alongside Steenhouwersdijk and again showcases some incredible buildings with step gables. It is also the location of Bruges’ oldest bridge, the historic Meestraat bridge which you will find featured in my gallery below. It’s worth travelling all the routes by day and by night as the lit bridges bring an extra dimension to the city.

10. Relax in Minnewater Park

As soon as I arrived in Bruges I hit the tourist trail. Instead of making for the centre, I turned right shortly after the train station and made towards the Minnewater Park. This one of the more open spaces in the city with a lake, known as the Lake of Love.  The lake is bound on one side by the Minnewater park and walkways on the others. Minnewater Park, accessed via lovers bridge is home to the Kasteel Minnewater which is a glorious backdrop to the lake. It now operates as a restaurant.

To the south, the first thing you will come across is the Powder Tower, a 15th century red brick tower used to store gunpowder. It’s always a good idea to store that away from the city, as several other cities have found out the hard way. The tower isn’t accessible but it is nice to visit. The lakes most northerly feature is the Sashuis, which is a lockhouse that regulates the canals in the city.

11. Sample life of a Begijnhuisje at ten Wijngaerde

Passing the swans of the Wijngaardplein, enter the Begijnhuisje. Much like the Begijnhof in Amsterdam, this area was home to the beguines, a community of women who lived a devout life, but never took vows. The area is today inhabited by Benedictine nuns. The Begijnhuisje was founded in the 13th century, but what exists today is from the 17th. It’s a place of reflection and solitude so you are asked to respect that when there. The church within can be visited, but the only house opened on my visit was a gift shop.

Churches of Bruges

There are many churches and a cathedral littered around and it is advised to visit early if you wish to see the smaller ones. I was selective in my visits only going for the three standouts.

12. Take an art tour at the Church of our Lady Bruges

Locally known as the Onze Lieve Vrouw Kerk, this Church is more than just that. From the exterior it’s dominated by its massive tower, which is the highest in the city of Bruges. At 115 metres tall it still ranks as the second highest brick structure in the world. It’s a commanding sight from anywhere in the city. But it’s in the interior that the church truly excels.

You can expect to pay if you want to take a look around inside. At the time of my visit there were works being carried out, so the entry fee was only €2. This meant some works of art weren’t available to be seen. But there was still a great amount of great art adorning the church walls. Above the altar hangs a painting of the passion of Christ by Bernard Van Orley, the one painting you should seek out.

The church itself was decorated in the 13th century shortly after its construction in 1225. Some of these frescoes are now being excavated and repaired and it’s fascinating to see the art from this time. Tombs from this era can be seen too with colourful internal decorations. But it’s the tombs of Mary of Burgundy and Charles the Bold that the church seems centred on. These 16th century tombs feature beautiful decorations and effigies of their occupiers.

13. Appreciate a masterpiece in Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child

Yet tucked away in the far corner of the church is its prize. Due to the building work what I saw was a replica, or so they say for security. Sometimes I’m never sure if half the art we see is the original. The prize in question is Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, a marble sculpture from 1505. It’s a delicately carved work and the hand of a master can easily be seen.

14. Visit Bruges main church, Saint Saviour’s Cathedral

Saint Saviour’s Cathedral is the main cathedral of the city. It’s first incarnation was destroyed by fire and the present one was built in 1250. It only becoming the city’s main cathedral when the previous one was demolished by the occupying French. Much of the furnishings were moved here. The centre of the cathedral with its quire and altar is extremely attractive. Tapestries hang all around the walls and are finely decorated by Hendrik Van Susteren.

The rest of the church is a succession of small chapels with Flemish art and sculptures. It’s a very ornate church with much use of marble. I found the entombed sculpture of Jesus particularly startling, and very realistic in its depiction. The stain glass windows are of an amazing standard as you would expect from a European cathedral. Again this is a great place to see 13th century tombs with their artistic interiors. The cathedral can be visited for free and will easily provide a good half hours amusement.

15. Step into Adventure at the Basilica of the Holy Blood

This is undoubtedly the most interesting of Bruges trivium of main churches. For me, this will forever be known as the Indiana Jones church, owing to its defensive exterior, all golden knights and lions, and of course to its huge (by biblical proportions) possession. The Church of the Holy Blood is famous for the relic it holds, which is said to contain the blood of Jesus Christ.

I can envisage Indiana navigating past those defensive knights, scaling that precarious spiral stairs with its vaulted ceiling, before passing unknown dangers to save the relic from, lets see, Nazis of course who planned to use it to destroy the allies.

Once in the church you can enter the basilica museum to the right, which contains quite some interesting art, tapestries and relics. It also has a reliquary which is used in the annual Procession of the Holy Blood which walks through the streets of Bruges. The reliquary contains 30 kg of gold and silver and over 100 precious stones. The wealth of the Catholic Church never fails to impress me.

Chapel of the Holy Blood

Once inside the chapel it occurs to you how dark it is. So please excuse my photos as no flash is allowed either. We are now in the Chapel of the Holy Blood. This chapel was built in 1149, along with Chapel of St Basil on the lower floor. I was particularly impressed by the colourful curved arches which date from the earliest church, the globe shaped pulpit, and the high altar.The painting behind the high altar dates from 1905 and is an incredibly detailed work, depicting Christ on the cross and the journey of the relic to the church.

Which takes us to the relic, which is located in a side chapel. The relic is said to be cloth containing the blood of Christ, which was discovered in Constantinople during the second crusade, and taken to Bruges by Thierry of Alsace. The blood is held in a phial, and dating on it seems to corroborate the story. The clothing has never been examined in modern times, nor has it ever been removed from the phial. Interesting stuff.

16. Follow the church trail

If you haven’t had your fill of churches by now you could try the Jeruzalemkerk in the north inner city, which is said to have an interesting interior. It was certainly bold on the exterior.

Sint-Jakobskerk is another parish church that is more than its sum parts. Donations from the cityfolk of Flemish art over the centuries, ensure that this small church is now yet another amazing gallery. It is on Sint-Jakobsplein.

Squares of Bruges

17. Walk in the shopping Heart of the city

If Bruges’ soul lies in its canals and houses, then it’s heart lies in its squares. But before I leap head first into the squares, I suggest you take time to stroll the shopping street of Noordzandstraat. It’s the commercial heart of the city and is the ideal route to take to approach Markt. You will find no end of boutiques, high street stores and of course chocolate shops.

18. Find your bearings at the Market Square

The Grote Markt is the heart of the medieval and modern city of Bruges. On Wednesday of each week it aspires to its name and stalls and vans pull up, and the space transforms. The Markt sells flowers, fruit, veg and traditional and local goods. It’s the ideal place to grab a gift. Of course at Christmas, different types of market take centre stage.

The rest of the time it’s a pleasant open space. Largely pedestrianized with only one lane of traffic crossing it, it’s one of Bruges’ most impressive places. Each corner is laden with the most impressive architecture, many of the houses guild houses. The Provincial Palace is the most decorative building of the square, and now serves as the provincial court. Entry is only through inconvenience.

19. Fall in love with the Guild Houses

My favourite of all, and of all the buildings I saw in Belgium, were the row of Guild Houses on the northern side of the square. As fairytale as can be, they appear as if they could be made from gingerbread. All that is missing is the witch and Hansel and Gretel. It’s a great place to return to in the evening too, as the houses are lit in the most beautiful way.

20. Climb the Belfry

But inevitably my most anticipated thing to visit in Bruges was the Belfry. I do adore towers and this is one of the more famed ones. Perhaps only because of the aforementioned movie and the little argy bargy between Ray and some overweight tourists that he dissuaded to climb it.

I certainly wouldn’t be dissuaded. Not by the suggestion that there wasn’t much to see and not by the prospect of 366 steps. The Belfry towers over Bruges’ Markt, and is easily the most impressive building there. Standing since 1240, the bell tower as in most medieval cities played a huge part in everyday life, for warnings, celebrations and to draw crowds for interesting things like executions.

The interior of the Belfry shows us into a market hall which in this day serves little purpose more than a public toilet and as access to the tower. Admission costs €12 and it’s a challenging climb. The stairs are winding so bear in mind there isn’t much space to pass by people. There are welcome breaks inside in what used to be the town treasury and at various levels to see the bells and the clock.

But being a tower the beauty lies in the views from the top. The views don’t disappoint with full 360 degrees of the city, but the safety netting around make it difficult to capture the city well by photo. Which makes the argument that perhaps you are better scaling the smaller tower in the Historium.

21. Relive the Story behind a Painting at the Historium

The Historium is the city museum of Bruges and is in keeping with the modern trend of high-tech interactive museums. Entry isn’t cheap. To access the Historium story and the tower cost me €21 and it would be remiss of me not to question its value. Tickets can be bought online at a discount. I hadn’t because it wasn’t on my agenda, but during a rain shower it suited me perfect. You can also add-on entry to the virtual reality exhibit should you wish.

The exhibition takes you through the story of a time when Bruges was at its most prestigious as a trade city. It tells the story of Flemish artist Jan Van Eyck’s painting “Virgin and Child with Canon van see Paele” through the interactions of a servant and a girl called Anna who would feature in the painting. Through video and sets we see Bruges how it may have been in the 14th century.

It’s a very polished show but you do leave wondering what’s the point. But some of the sets are fun including the bit of gratuitous nudity. The tour takes you out to a panoramic terrace for nice views of Markt, before planting you straight into a Duvel bar. How very Belgian. The Duval chandelier here is very cool.

22. If you have the Energy Climb the Historium Tower

The other side of the Historium I undertook was the tower. The tower was only constructed in 1921 but the whole building looks so in keeping with its medieval counterparts. 145 steps will carry you to the top and again it’s not for those with claustrophobic or vertigo issues. It’s also hard work after the Belfry. But the view from top is unobstructed and Bruges looks more beautiful from this level. It’s not a city you want to reach too far away from so in essence this is perhaps the better tower of the two in the square.

23. Relax on a Horse Carriage Ride

Yes it’s quite possibly the most touristy thing on this list. But that doesn’t detract from the fact that Bruges is the perfect city to embrace it in. The carriage rides begin at Markt and take a 30 minute tour around the city. Currently they are priced at €55. It’s always a concern how animals are treated in the provision of tours such as this, but thankfully the Bruges horses look magnificent.

24. Visit the Second Square of Bruges- Burg Square

The Burg Square is only marginally less beautiful than its counterpart. A walk through Briedelstraat (where you should stop for waffles) will take you to Burg Square which is one of the oldest parts of Bruges. The square was once a fortress but there are no remains of that. Again it is surrounded by guild houses and some really remarkable buildings in the form of the City Hall and the old Court House.

25. Appreciate Architectural Beauty at the City Hall

The squares most beautiful building and also Bruges’ is the City Hall. This was constructed in 1376 in Gothic style. The facade is absolutely stunning, with a collection of statues of knights and biblical figures.

But the beauty isn’t restricted to the outside. A €6 entry fee gives you access to the City Hall and the adjoining Court House. The reception seems very average and I nearly didn’t go in. I was glad I give it a chance. Most of the doors were oddly locked on the lower level so I wondered what I was doing there. There was an elegant stairs leading to the first floor, but I simply wasn’t prepared for what awaited beyond.

The Gothic Hall is simply one of the most beautiful rooms I have ever stepped in. The beautiful vaulted ceilings pale in significance to the 19th century murals which decorate very centimetre of wall space. The murals detail Bruges’ past, and the interactions between citizens and government. The room is a masterpiece and needs to be seen as much as anything else in the city. The Historic Hall contains many documents on the history of the city, but I was too distracted by the murals to pay much heed.

26. See the working of Law in Bruges at the Old Court House

With your ticket in your pocket from the Stadhuis make your way next door to the Old Court House. This building is nearly as beautiful as its neighbour with the enchanting Blind Donkey Alley separating them. The building is topped by a statue of Lady Justice showing its stature in the legal sense. The facade is a blend of gold and marble.

The interior appears cluttered on first entry, but again like its neighbour, the Aldermans Hall contained within is its highlight. Here is the chamber where fates were decided. It’s a solemn place and the painting by Van Tilborgh captures the chamber at work. The room is dominated by the fine fireplace from 1528. It is an extravagant mix of oak, marble and alabaster and a great piece of Renaissance art. 

North of the Centre

It’s worth taking a stroll to the northeast of the city. I did so after breakfast on the morning of the second day there. The streets are mostly deserted besides the odd wandering soul like myself. Here you will find the Jeruzalemkerk as well as the English Convent.

27. Visit 18th century Windmills

I kept pushing out until I reached the outer canal and the two windmills, Sint-Janshuismolen and Boon-Chiere that lie in this area. Both were built in the late 1700’s. They weren’t open in January but they were available to tour from April onwards.

28. Enter Bruges as People have done for 600 years at the Kruispoort Gate

The area provided a nice break from the centre and the dragon shaped benches are the perfect place to sit and relax. The rampart here curves down to the Kruispoort Gate. This is the oldest and best preserved of the remaining gates into the city. Constructed in the 15th century it is still an operational access point into the city for vehicles.

Museums in Bruges

There are no end of museums in Bruges from museums dedicated to beer, fries, and chocolate, to the more traditional ones dedicated to torture and diamonds. Sorry art and history.

29. Appreciate art at the Groeninge Museum

Located in the Eekhout Abbey the Groeninge Museum is Bruges’ principal museum. Principally dedicated to art, Renaissance, Baroque, Flemish Expressionism and modern day art are all well showcased here. If the Historium tickled your curiosity, then this where you will find the Van Eyck masterpiece. But its rich collection also contains other Flemish artists of note such as Memling, van der Goes, Bosch, and Blondeel.

30. Visit a 12th Century Hospital at Sint-Janshospital

The Sint-Janshospital is a unique museum which pays great detail to its past. A 12th century hospital, it now serves as an art museum. Hans Memling is the artist principally featured here, including his masterpiece the Ursula Shrine. But the museum excels in its showcasing of its medical instruments, and the old hospital pharmacy, all housed in the magnificent medieval building. Entry is €12 for adults.

31. Learn the Story of Chocolate at the Choco-Story Museum

For anyone interested in the history of chocolate this might be the place for you. For those who are more interested in the taste, they do free samples. It’s a win-win. Did you know chocolate is 4000 years old? A demonstration will take you through the deepest darkest secrets of making chocolate too. The chocolate museum is open 7 days a week, costs €9,50, and is on Wijnzakstraat.

Eating and Drinking in Bruges

32. Consume the one thing better than Chocolate

Stop scratching your heads and get this – Chocolate beer!! Yes chocolate beer is a thing in Bruges, available at the Chocolate Kiss bar on Wijngaardstraat. The only place I know where you can get endorphins and get sauced at the same time.

33. Warm up during Bruges in winter at the the Old Chocolate House

The Old Chocolate House is the perfect place to duck in out of the cold. It is located on Mariastraat. Boasting the best hot chocolate in the city, and a has huge selection of gingerbread, cookies or luxurious chocolates to accompany it, while relaxing in the upstairs tearoom.

34. Drink Coffee in one of Bruges’ Oldest Buildings

The cafe at Huis Craenenburg. The building is a historical one dating from the 14th century and has historical connections to Princess Margaretha of York who celebrated her marriage here. The building has great style and the cafe that now inhabits the space is in its third generation. It also means another thing, to dine or wine in this space is an expensive one. I stopped in for a cappuccino which cost me €4.80. At least the drink was good and it was nice to soak up the ambiance and history.

35. Eat the best Waffles in Town

These are found at Chez Albert. The waffles at Chez Albert are reputed to be the best in the city. Which I can attest too is as they were magical and I returned here a number of times during my trip. Somehow my path wandered this way again and again. What a coincidence. I felt no need to go elsewhere, all my waffle ambitions were fulfilled in those fantastic forkfuls. They didn’t serve nutella, but the Belgian milk chocolate was even more delicious. Go here when you are in Bruges, as you will not regret it.

36. Indulge in Belgian Chocolates

Belgian Chocolate can be found on every street. When I wasn’t wishing for waffles, I was getting charmed by chocolates. Chocolate is such a passion here, and the selections are enormous. I find some tantalising truffles to take home in Chocoholic, and part of the joy of the city was strolling from shop to shop checking out the handmade delights. Needless to say I sampled a few.

37. Fill up on the original Belgian Street Food

I’m always on the look out for a quick and easy option for lunch. After quite a search on my second day I found The Olive Str Food on Wollestraat. Faith was on my side and the name even provided the answer to the question I was asking. An extra-large portion of fries served with mayo, and I had my daily dose of Belgian Frites too. Well recommended for a budget stop and they also serve gyros.

38. Tackle a full pot of Moules et Frites at ‘T Walpoortje

I had missed out on this dish when in Brussels so I intended to fix this in Bruges. It’s the Belgian national dish in case you didn’t know. I didn’t plan to eat here, but I was out and about at night and my wanderings took me up Wijngaardplein. I had spotted this restaurant earlier in the day on Walplein. It fit the bill perfectly and I didn’t even bother asking for the menu. Trust me though 1 kg of mussels and a plate of frites is a lot of food. Delicious as they were I couldn’t quite finish it. With a beer the meal cost me €30.

38. Get a Little Tipsy with Beer Tasting at Bruges Beer Museum

I arrived for a tour of the Belgian beer museum a little too late to visit, but luckily the bar hadn’t closed. They do a special offer of 5 beers for €10. Although they are only tasting glasses of 250ml, after five I wasn’t mistaken that I was drinking Belgian beer. There is certainly a great selection with good distinction between blond, amber and red ales, and all with distinct tasting notes. It’s best to give one from each group a go, and I thought the Rodenbach was the best.

39. Take a walking tour

Bruges is the perfect city to take a walk and explore. It’s compact size and glorious architecture lend so well to it.

If you prefer to be led, Get your guide offers a range of guided walking tours through the city, ranging in time and focus.

Bruges without a doubt ranks as one of the city’s I enjoyed visiting most. I simply cannot fault the place, and I suggest that everyone should visit, irrespective of their interests. Don’t pay any heed to Ray from In Bruges, his opinion is not that of the Irish. In short this Irishman says go to Bruges, you owe to yourself.

If you liked my long-winded guide to Bruges in winter, please like, comment, pin or share.

Your Bern itinerary should easily include everything the city is known for. A city of fountains and bears set on the banks of the River Aare, its beauty will surprise you. It’s one of those rare places where I would be as happy to live as to visit. Bern is easily appreciated on a day trip from the Swiss Alps region too.

Arriving in Switzerland for our One Day in Bern

If you are arriving into Switzerland the nearest airport serving Bern airport itself. It’s a small airport, which only services a small number of international airports and is linked to the city by the S3 train and bus 160. Alternatively Bern is located some 105 kilometers from Basel and that trip roughly takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, all going well. Bern is also 126 kilometres from Zurich airport, or 159 kilometres from Geneva, making it very convenient to access. Switzerland is in the centre of Europe, and has great links to the countries that surround it also.

Our arrival in Switzerland via Basel wasn’t perfect. We have yet to master the art of travelling light, and with the weather promising everything from cold, to rainy days, thunderstorms and sweltering hot ones, we packed for all seasons, and arrived in Switzerland with a lot more clothes than we probably should have. Or as it turned out after seven days of sun and a singular thunderstorm, far too many clothes. But hey the forecast lied to us. Of course that meant we came out on top, so it’s a small price to pay.

Taking the early flight from Dublin we touched down in Basel EuroAirport at 10:20am which we had been surprised to learn was in France. It conveniently services the two aforementioned countries, and also the city of Freiburg in Germany. The queues for the passport control were longer than one would hope, with the non-EU queue that many joined, far quicker than the EU one. Certainly something to bear in mind if flying in here.

After some drama involving our rental car we were set and on our way to Bern (see my Driving in Europe post for more on that one).

Travelling to Bern by train

Switzerland is as well serviced by train as any country in the world. To that extent many choose to travel by train. Should this be your choice and you can’t fly to Bern then the Zurich service is fastest, arriving in 1 hr 12 minutes, versus 1 hr 30 from Basel and 1 hr 45 from Geneva. Rail travel is expensive (what isn’t in Switzerland) and it is advisable to buy a Swiss Travel Pass. The fare card gives huge discounts on multiple trips. Trains serve all the major sights in any Switzerland itinerary from Lucerne to Lauterbrunnen and are the only way to reach the top of Europe at Jungfrau. Bern train station is centrally located at the end of Neuengasse.

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Where to stay in Bern

Bern is a compact city and so the best places to stay are in its heart. I always prefer standalone and boutique hotels over big chains, just for the personality they exude. Highly recomended come the Hotel Allegro Bern, the Hotel Savoy, and the Bristol. Upper-end price options such as the Hotel Bellevue Palace and the Hotel Schweizerhof will satisfy any of your demands. All of the above are located in the old town of Bern. The lower end mostly consists of Ibis and Metropoles and hostels such as the Bern Backpackers Hotel Glocke. Booking through booking.com gives the best rates and through this widget may help put my kids through college.

One day in Bern- or was it?

We decided to go for a lower end hotel for our stay in Bern. All went well until we reached Bern. I had added our hotel to the GPS prior to the trip but honestly didn’t pay much attention to its location at that time. So we reached Bern, circled around it and suddenly found ourselves back out in the countryside. Now this was rather unusual.

I still can’t figure out how but our hotel was EIGHT KILOMETERS outside the city of Bern. Maybe the hotel name threw me, Hotel Bern as it was known on booking.com. Or it could have been the location, Bernstrasse. But then again why would there be a Bernstrasse in Bern? Who said travel was perfect.

Ziegel Husi Hotel

As it turned out to be actually known was our hotel. Maybe I have a case for false advertising. Ziegel Husi Restaurant and Hotel is located in a very Swiss looking building on the site of a working vinegar factory, in the village of Stettlen. Luckily a smell of vinegar didn’t fill the air. The restaurant is said to be great, though we can’t attest to that. Hotel Bern isn’t too modern, but was clean and comfortable, and quite fine to spend one night in.

It presents itself as a budget offering to stay near Bern too, that is to say if €140 can be considered budget. But then again Switzerland was never going to be a budget trip. Surrounded by rolling green hills the area was beautiful, and like much of Switzerland the village was punctuated by attractive chalets.

Free parking in the hotel allowed me to ditch the car in favour of public transportation, and the hotel was very close to a train station linking to the heart of Bern. A fifteen minute trip and the city was at our mercy. The train into the city costs Fr 4.60, which equated to €4.10. There isn’t much difference in the exchange with Euro.

Exchange rates to Swiss Franc

$1 = Fr 0.92

€1 = Fr 1.08

£1 = Fr 1.09.

Our Bern in One Day Itinerary

They say problems usually come in threes, so what did Bern have in store for us. I had no reason to be apprehensive, as from the minute we disembarked the train station, I knew this was a city I was going to love. And fall in love with Bern I did. Its historical core, cobbled pedestrianized streets and relaxed atmosphere appealed so much to me. Flags hang from windows down many streets, with a notable great feeling of pride in their city from the locals. Being Swiss, absolutely everywhere is spotless.

We started our tour down Aarbergasse, which runs right to the heart of the city. Trams and buses run up and down here, ringing bells at oblivious tourists, marveling at the city. Yes I was one. The arcaded street sides provide shelter from the elements and the transport, and play host to the usual suspects of high street shopping. Needless to say I lost Beata in there for some time.

Bern History

Known locally as Berne, the city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and deservedly so. Founded in 1191 by the Zahringer family who ruled much of the area from Burgundy, before becoming a part of the Holy Roman Empire. It finally became part of the Swiss Confederation in 1353. The city grew in size becoming the largest Swiss city north of the Alps, and expanded its territory.

These territorial advance was halted by occupying French troops in 1798, during the French Revolutionary Wars, and much of its territories were stripped. It later regained control of the Bernese Oberland and Bernese Jura. In 1848 Bern was made the Swiss capital and has remained so since. Not the most interesting of histories but that doesn’t detract from the city’s historical core. At present Bern has a population of 140,000, making it the fourth most populous of Switzerland’s cities.

Your Bern Itinerary- A Walking Tour

Part of appeal about Bern lies in walking its streets and marveling at the buildings of the old town. Many of the current buildings date back centuries, a fire in 1405 destroyed the wooden buildings at the time, and they were replaced by half timbered and sandstone houses in the following centuries. The streets are a cacophony of colour from the flags. The roofs of the city’s houses are a delight to see, many have cute dormer windows, and those houses form a maze when looked on from above. 

Street Fountains of Bern

The Bernese love their street fountains. Besides the fact that water is palatable everywhere in Switzerland and the fountains on the street are the perfect place to refill your water bottles, they serve a more artistic purpose in Bern. A series of fountains dots the old town with most of them dating from the 16th century and nearly all the work of Hans Gleng. Its an impressive array of work, as the columns represent Moses, Justice, Samson, a piper, and inevitably a Bear which is the symbol of Bern. Of the one hundred odd fountains in Bern eleven are like this.

Towers

I cannot go anywhere without paying some towers a visit and Bern was to be no exception. Mind you it’s hard to miss them if you walk down the main thoroughfare. Firstly, you will come across the Kafigturm, a clock and bell tower from 1644. Prior to this it served as a prison and a gatehouse on the walls of Bern’s medieval city, but was rebuilt in its present baroque form. It is possible to visit the interior.

Zytglogge

The accolade of best tower easily belongs to the Zytglogge though. This tower dates back 800 years and to sum up has been a guard tower, prison for women who had relations with priests, clock tower and more recently a symbol of Bern. This is owed in part to its many changes, certainly the most significant being the addition of its 15th century astronomical clock. It’s one of the finest I’ve seen. Besides the attractive clocks on the east and west facades, the tower has so many interesting features.

A large figure of Chronos, the Greek figure of time, strikes the bell with a hammer on the hour. The astronomical clocks displays far more than just the time. It is said that the astronomical clock here was what influenced Einstein to think outside the box. But is it the main draw? No. At ten to the hour crowds gather on the streets below, as we did, to watch the 16th century mechanism, when the dance of bears and a jesters begins. We are all a sucker for a good show. Its an early form of mechanics, and perhaps the influence for cuckoo clocks.

Limited opening hours mean there only one tour every day of the Zytglogge at 2:30pm and tckets can be booked through the official website or on get your guide.

Interesting Buildings to see on a Day in Bern

Being Switzerland there is no shortage of interesting and seriously cute buildings in Bern. This was part of the reason that I enjoyed walking around. As I was only visiting for a day, I limited my time to the streets mostly, and appreciated the city for its aesthetics rather than its depth. Much of the best architecture cannot be visited though such as the Hollanderturm, Parliament Building or the Town Hall of 1406, to name but a few.

The Hollanderturm, is a tower dating from the 13th century but with a distinctly beautiful 17th century upper floor. Bern Town Hall is distinguished by its elegant double stairs, with a balcony for politicians to make speeches from. The building appeared somewhat Venetian to me. I popped in the open door, but was politely told it wasn’t open to the public. It does open for tours on four occasions each year, which are detailed on the website, so if you are lucky enough to be in town, it would be an interesting one to see the interior of.

Bern Munster

As the city’s cathedaral, Bern Munster is the tallest in the country. Construction began in 1421 but the tower was only completed in 1893. To think I thought progress on the Sagrada Familia was slow. The Munster is a pleasant church without being mind-blowing. Entrance is from the west and I advise taking time to pause and study the central portal. Featuring sculptures from Edhard Kung it depicts the Last Judgement, with the righteous separated from the wicked, who inevitably end up in hell. It’s a beautiful work of art and took its artist 20 years between 1460 and 1480 to complete.

Entry into the Munster is refreshingly free and you are free to walk around the interior. Photography however is not permitted in the interior. As cathedrals go it wasn’t the most spectacular I’ve seen, perhaps owing to the protestant iconoclasm of the protestant reformation in the 16th century. Many paintings and altars were removed and destroyed. In conclusion, what has survived is the high altar and choir, the organ, and thankfully the stain glass windows, which are quite fine, with some dating to the 15th century.

Bell Tower

Having saved my energies from the two previous towers I had encountered the tower at Bern Munster was firmly in my sights. The steeple at 110 metres is the tallest in Switzerland, and 254 steps await before you reach the top. There are a few floors where you can stop to catch your breath, and you can bet I did. The tower does have a cover charge of Fr 5, which I thought quite reasonable, and from the top the views out over the town are beautiful. Those previously mentioned Bernese rooftops are a pleasure to look over and the River Aare is a beauty. In the distance the snow covered Alps were a sneak preview of what awaited us in the coming days.

There is some interesting artwork on the bell tower, and the route up presents many glimpses of the churches flying buttresses. The descent from the tower takes a different route, bringing you by Munster’s bells. They include the largest in Switzerland, the ten tonne Grosse Glocke from 1611. You don’t want to be here when these bells ring at 12 and 6 daily, but I did see earmuffs provided if you do.

River Aare Views

Whilst the views from the bell tower of the Munster are great, to really want to appreciate the River Aare you need to walk around the circumference of the city. A good place to start is the Parliament Building, from where the Aare is backed by the Swiss Alps. However my two favourites were the Kirchenfeldbrucke, which is to the south of the city, and the Kornhausbrucke to the north. Here we can really see just how turquoise are those waters. The waters are fed from glaciers up in the alps and the dissolving of minerals in the process results in its stunning appearance.

Standing on the Kirchenfeldbrucke I was amazed, as to one side the parliament rises from the river, and to the other the Munster. I could have easily stood there all day long taking it all in. If I can suggest one place to find in Bern, in summary, this is it.

From here, keep those gorgeous views coming with a visit to the Munsterplattform, a viewing deck in the shadow of the Munster. Any visit to Bern should continue down Gerechtigkeitsgasse (probably the longest word I’ve ever typed in a blog), as this aesthetic street leads to more wonderful bridge views at the Nydeggbrucke. It also leads to one of Bern’s top attractions, and in doing so provides us with the answer of where Bern got its name.

Bear Park of Bern

Bern has always had a relationship with bears, even since its founding days. It’s the city’s symbol, and can be found everywhere you look. Legend or not, the city is said to have gotten its name from its bears. Nowadays, the bears can be found in the city’s Bear Park, located just beyond the Nydeggbrucke. The Bear Park winds down to the river and in this idyllic surroundings, the local population of bears, which now numbers three, walk, laze and swim. We only caught brief glimpses through the vegetation. It’s an interesting feature of what is a above all, a very interesting city.

Rosen Garden

Within minutes of the Bears is the Rosen Garden. The park is Bern’s most famous. It ascends above the city giving prime views over the Munster and bend of the River Aare. The park features over 400 varieties of roses, and springtime displays of cherry blossoms. Not bad for what used to be the city’s cemetery. A bench featuring a statue of Albert Einstein has become the most sought after selfie location in the city.

Museums- Things to do in Bern on a wet day

If you want to add culture to your Bern itinerary, then the huge number of Bern museums will be right up your street. Better still they are nearly all located in the one area. Crossing over the scenic Kirchenfeldbrucke. The first here is the Kunsthalle, an art museum. Right next to it is the Alpine Museum of Switzerland, which has exhibits on the Alps. Also here are the Museum of Communication and the Natural History Museum, if that’s your thing.

The best of Bern’s museums is the Einstein House. Albert Einstein lived in this flat from 1903 to 1905 and developed his theory of relativity here. The interior is decorated in period furniture and contains documents from his time spent in the city. 1905 was Einstein’s extraordinary year. Did Bern inspire him? It’s a distinct possibility.

Where to eat during a day in Bern?

Our mantra for Switzerland when it came to food, was to keep it simple, save, and keep the cost down. So street food was the order of the day in Bern. Our lunch was a modest sandwich from a stall on Neuengasse. At Fr 6.50 each it fell easily in our budget. Our plan had been to eat from the supermarkets Migros and Coop, once a day and then have a restaurant meal, but this fit in perfectly. Plus I’m generally happy with street food.

For dinner we made the upgrade to pizza. All in all not to healthy. There are many open air restaurants around the city centre, but with our energy levels dwindling from the early flight, we settled on Da Vinci. It’s an Italian restaurant on Spitalgasse. So we shared a pizza with a beer, water and coffee and escaped with a bill of only Fr 34, which quite frankly I thought was winning in Switzerland. The stories I had heard before of Switzerland being one of the most expensive countries in the world, led me to believe I would be declaring bankruptcy at the end of this trip.

Conclusion

Would i recommend a visit to Bern? I guess the best compliment I can pay it, is to say I would happily live there. One day was hardly enough time to give this beautiful city, and I suspect I’ll be back to dig deeper.

For travel tips and suggestions on how to save on your Swiss trip, venture over to my Saving Money in Switzerland blog.

Looking for ideas for day trips after Bern? Then look no further than Lauterbrunnen.

The magnificent Grindelwald was the highlight of our Swiss Alps trip. Read my travel guide here.

Travel Insurance

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If you enjoyed the blog, I would appreciate a share or a pin. Happy travels to those for whom Bern Switzerland awaits.

John