Longford surprised me. Having grown up here, taking a trip to a place of interest usually involved a spin down the road to another county, particularly one bordering an ocean or sea. Tourists in Longford usually consisted of a few anglers trying their luck on the counties rivers.

Longford has come a long way as a tourist county over the last few years. Previously it was a string of market towns servicing the local population. No more! With the advent of the Failte Ireland initiative, Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands, (focusing on the then unfashionable counties that border the River Shannon), and the opening of Center Parcs Longford Forest, the county has seen a significant growth in tourist facilities.

Now the county numbers several attractions charting its history, one of the best greenways in the country, and an unrivalled family resort. It also has one of Ireland’s greatest Iron Age mysteries in the trackway at Corlea Bog.

Longford is best seen on wheels, either on two or four. North Longford by car and South Longford by bike. With a solid recommendation on how to see the county coming from the team from Longford Tourism, we spent 3 full days in the county, first viewing the history and natural walks of the north county, then exploring its many towns, before taking to the Royal Canal greenway. We left more than impressed with the many things to do in Longford.

We travelled to Longford at the invitation of Longford Tourism, for a three day FAM trip. While much of what we visited was sponsored, all views expressed are my own. I would like to thank Tara, Dympna and Denise for their kind assistance in organising the trip, and also all the business owners for their warm welcome, time, energy and hard work. For a full guide to the county visit the site www.Longford.ie

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

EZxploring maps- an interesting way to see the best things in Longford

Seeing Longford is made all the more easier by picking up the free EZxploring maps from local libraries or heritage centres. The maps contain a plethora of info on each towns architecture and history. They are also really interactive so kids will love them too and learn of heritage along the way. Not just kids might I add. At present there are EZxploring maps of Longford, Ballymahon, Edgeworthstown, Granard, Lanesborough, Ardagh and of the Royal Canal Greenway.

Things to do in Longford – Day One – North Longford Road Trip

As you hit Longford, and assuming you are coming from a Dublin direction the first town you’ll meet (or bypass if you follow the road- DON’T do that) is Edgeworthstown. Home to a museum dedicated to its most famous citizens, there’s actually quite a lot to this rare spoken of town. From there, our road trip moves north to Granard. The Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre is the most fun you’ll have in the county, and that includes the pubs. Learn all about its Norman history and get introduced to Longford’s part in the failed 1798 rebellion.

After appreciating nature on some of North Longford’s walks, we learn more of the rebellion in the town of Ballinamuck, the site of a major battle in 1798, before travelling back towards Longford town. GPS is a must for some of these locations as they can otherwise be hard to find. Even for a local.

Edgworthstown

Edgeworthstown is about 90 minutes from Dublin, on the N4 heading west. The town’s history is centred around the Edgeworth family, the extremely fair landlords who resided in a nearby manor house. The town grew with their help and their impact can be seen right across the town. There is street parking throughout the town for €1 per hour, and it’s important to display your ticket on the dash.

Maria Edgeworth Centre

Located in the old school on Ballymahon Road, is a museum dedicated to Maria Edgeworth. Maria Edgeworth for those who don’t know, was a leading Irish literary writer in the early 19th century. Her most noted works are Castle Rackrent, Ennui , The Absentee, and Ormond. Her works sadly haven’t received the same modern attention as some of her peers, but during her life she was revered as one of the finest minds around and was a regular confident of some of Britain’s and Ireland’s top economists and novelists.

As well as being a writer, she was a strong educational campaigner, striving to upgrade the rote learning system, and seeking education for all in Ireland irrespective of religion or class.

Her extended family too were most certainly of note. The museum weaves a story that includes the relation who administered last rites to Louis XVI, her father Richard who was a politician, writer and inventor, and her various connections with high class society at the time.

It certainly taught me quite a few things about my local history. An audio guide is offered to take you through the full story of this very intriguing family, with a wall full of portraits introducing us to the various players. Entry to the Maria Edgeworth Centre is €5.

You can pick up the EZxploring maps and an audio guide of Edgeworthstown from the centre before venturing out to explore the town.

Granard

Granard has been the location of a settlement since the year 236 AD, and has a significant history going back through the centuries. Irish tribes used it for its dominant position atop a hill. They weren’t very welcoming of St Patrick when he came calling. Queen Maebh is said to have stopped here with her army in the Tain. When the Normans came, Richard de Tuite built a motte atop a hill here in the 13th century, which at 166 metres above sea level, is the highest in the country.

Granard is about 11 kilometres from Edgeworthstown on the N55. Parking is at the Knights and Conquests heritage centre, which is our excellent first stop before we explore the town.

Knights and Conquests Heritage Centre- Where history and fun collide

Knights and Conquests is a relatively new attraction in the county, and charts the Norman history of Granard and their successful invasion of Ireland in the 12th century. The visitor centre lies below the Motte on Granard’s outskirts. While anticipating the visitor centre to be educational (the town has quite the history, from the Norman’s, the 1798 rebellion, and the links to Michael Collins), we really weren’t expecting just how fun it was going to be. Undoubtedly the most fun thing to in Longford.

Run by Bartle and Deirdre, two of the most enthusiastic tour guides we’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting, Knights and Conquests is a hoot. It’s interactive throughout, from donning shields, swords, chain mail and helmets as a Norman, to swinging swords and being used as target practice for Bartle’s crossbow skills. It totally puts you in the mind of the Norman warrior of the day and made all the better by the hosts great sense of humour.

It’s informative of course too, with a video and plenty of exhibitions on the Norman invasion, way of life, and all that followed in the centuries after. A room is dedicated to Kitty Kiernan one of Granard’s famous citizens. She was the beau of Michael Collins, and their story is one of Ireland’s most tragic love stories. The interpretative centre has some uniforms of the style used by Collins during the Irish Civil War, so of course we had to try those on too.

Lastly I was dressed in pantaloons and the attire of a rebel from the 1798 rebellion, who fought in Granard and were cruelly executed at the nearby Motte.  So perhaps I looked a little ridiculous but I’m always up for that. We love interactive exhibits like this. They are some of our favourite tours and Knights and Conquests easily joins the list of the best we’ve been to. 

They have some amazing plans to expand and build a Norman village on the site, with a working mill and much more. I’ll be watching that development closely and returning.

Better yet all this fun only costs €6 for an adult, and €4 for kids. That’s about 10 cents a laugh by my calculation. Great value. they also open 7 days a week for tours. Visit the Knights and Conquests website here.

Derrycassin Woods walking trails

The first of the walks of North Longford, this woodland area has a number of trails. At one time this was the location of Derrycassan House and the estate of the Dopping-Hepenstal family. The manor house has since disappeared but there are still traces of the walled gardens. Throughout there are a number of trails, none more than about 3km long. They can be linked to appreciate the old estate and the views of the nearby Lough Gowna. In spring the woods are alive with colours of bluebells and rhododendrons.

The woods are located between Granard and Aughnacliffe near Dring. Speaking of Dring, there is a stunning fishing pier here overlooking Lough Gowna. It’s the perfect place for a picnic, though there is no protection near the waters edge if kids are in tow.

Aughnacliffe

Aughnacliffe is a small village on our route, but it’s not without its charms. On approach from Dring keep an eye out for the sign for Pulliness waterfall. There’s a short walk down to the waterfall and though small, it’s pleasant.

A few hundred metres further along the road a small sign will point you to the 5000 year old Aughnacliffe Portal Dolmen. In the case of both this and the waterfall there is no parking, so park roadside, taking care not to block entrances to houses. The dolmen is a little harder to get too, as it’s through two fields.

Proceed through the first field to find a gateway in the far right corner and within the next field you will find the portal Dolmen. They may or may not have livestock, so don’t bring a dog as this can unsettle them. Take care around animals especially cattle. That’s no bull. The Dolmen is right in the middle of a field, and is fully intact, with two capstones. One is almost three metres in length, making it the third biggest in Ireland.

Just off the heart of the village it the beautiful lakeside Leebeen park, complete with children’s playground, and an imaginative fairy garden. A walkway follows the small lake nearby too making this a lovely stop, especially with kids.

Ballinamuck

Ballinamuck is located 11 km from Aughnacliffe and was the scene of the Battle of Ballinamuck on 8th September 1798. An Irish backed French force under General Humbert had been victorious in the battle of Castlebar, in County Mayo. As they moved across the country they were pursued by two huge British armies under Lord Cornwallis and General Lake. Finally they made a stand in Ballinamuck. The battle lasted less than an hour, and was a disaster for the rebels. While the British suffered 12 losses, some 500 Irish and French lay dead. The remaining French surrendered, but the Irish rebels were given no quarter. The remaining were followed to the bog and bayoneted.

There is a memorial and a visitor centre dedicated to the fateful events of that day, within the village. The visitor centre recounts the details of that day. A statue of a pikeman (a pike was the only weapon the Irish had), shows how ill-equipped the Irish were against the heavily armed British.

Entry to the visitor centre a the moment is only by self guided tour. The key is available from Dillon’s Pub across the road.

Edenmore Bog walk

Just outside of the village is the Edenmore bog walk. Ireland has over 50 % of the raised bogland in Europe, and while it traditionally was harvested as a fuel for homes, there has been a growing movement away from fossil fuels, and bogs are being conserved. This is excellent news for the visitor as bogs are full on unique flora and fauna that only grow and live in these unusual conditions.

The Edenmore bog is no exception. A 4.5 km circular walk follows a solid trail underfoot and loops back to the small car park. It’s all signposted within so no fear of being lost in the bog. Wildlife is in abundance with a possibility of seeing Pine Martens at dawn and dusk, and birds such as Stonechats, Skylarks, Meadow Pipits, and Willow warblers. Butterflies and Dragonflies prance around the area. There are fascinating plants too, such as Sundew and Bladderwort that feed on insects.

It’s great to see an alternative use to Ireland’s boglands and them used as a local and tourist amenity. The have a close tie to our history and some of our most intact discoveries have been made in boglands. Very recently a full suit of Norman chainmail was found near Granard. The bog bodies found in Ireland is perhaps the most ghoulish and fascinating display in Dublin’s National History Museum. One wonders what else lies undiscovered under all that peat.

What other things are there to do in North Longford

The final leg of our best of North Longford driving tour took us through the village of Ennybegs. Notable is the small white parish church, but it’s the James Farrell Titanic memorial garden opposite that brought us here. James Farrell grew up here, before seeking a new life on the ill fated ships voyage.

Farrell is remembered for his heroics aboard the ship, where he pleaded for the lives of some female companions when they were blocked from reaching the lifeboats. After been left through he accompanied them to the boats where he watched them escape to safety. His body was found 8 days later. It’s an heroic story worth reading at the memorial. It was also told in the 1958 movie, A Night to Remember.

Our resting spot for the night would be the town of Drumlish, and the shepherds huts at Bramblewick House. More on this wonderful glamping site later. But first we spun by Drumlish Mill, a corn mill built in 1854, and a beautiful feature of the town. Sadly it can’t be visited, but it can most certainly be admired.

Corn Hill Walking Trail

Visiting in summer, there was the prospect of a late sunset, so we aimed for one more walk, and the hope of watching the sun set over the Irish midlands from Longford’s highest point. As is often the case in Ireland, clouds had a different idea. But that doesn’t take away from the walk.

Corn Hill at 278 metres is the third smallest high point of Ireland’s counties. But with no other hills of note in the county it does have prominence. A recent addition is the 3 km loop trail from a newly installed car park. The walk does have steep parts and most of it is over dirt track, but it is certainly classified as easy. The best views are north in the initial ascent, but the furthest point, facing west, is where we had hoped to catch the sunset. A number of picnic benches are installed here to take in the phenomenon.

At the top of corn hill are two cairns, from which it gets its name. Dating back around 5000 years, one has sustained damage. They are heavily linked to Irish mythology, including the story of the Tain, and an ancient witch known as Cailleach a Bheara.

Longford Town, Ardagh & Lough Ree- Day Two in Longford

Things to do in Longford Town

Longford town is the county town of Longford, and at first glance seems little more. But a deeper look brings it’s historical past to the fore. At its heart is St Mel’s Cathedral, easily the most standout building in the town, and one of Ireland’s finest cathedrals. A walk through the town will also highlight its military and industrial past.

Longford’s history is closely linked to the O’Farrell clan who were the rulers of Annaly, the old name for the area. They ruled the area from the 11th through the 17th century, at which point in 1621, Francis Aungier (who had been the commissioner of the plantations of Munster) was made 1st Baron of Longford.

Thus began the history of Longford Town. To protect the new lands, a castle was built in the town in 1627 in the area which is now Connolly Barracks, on the site of an old O’Farrell fort. The castle was eventually converted to a manor house, and the title of Lord Longford passed to the Pakenham family. Their descendants still live to this day in Tullynally castle in Westmeath.

Sadly the castle was demolished in 1972 after falling into ruin. As the town grew so did its military significance. The barracks was established in the 1700’s by the ruling British empire, one of many throughout the country. Longford continued its development as a market and industrial town throughout the 18th to 20th centuries. Much of the towns main buildings were built in the 19th century such as the market square, court house, and banks.

What to do in Longford- take the Longford Town audio tour

To fully appreciate the town equip yourself with an EZxploring map and the new Longford Town Audio Tour, which is available from the town library or tourism office. Priced at €5 it’s an invaluable companion as you follow the towns streets and the Camlin river. It takes in everything you could hope to see in Longford and much more that even I was oblivious to. The library is located in Longford Town Centre and the tourism office in the market square. Both contain ample paid parking.

St Mel’s Cathedral

St Mel’s Cathedral is the Roman Catholic cathedral for the diocese of Ardagh and Clonmacnoise. It was constructed between 1840 and 1856, though this was disrupted by the Great Famine. Neo-Classical in style it is defined by its large limestone columns and high belfry. It stands tall above all other buildings in town, and is a must visit. The modern interior contains a pair of Harry Clarke stained glass windows, an Italian organ by Fratelli Ruffatti, and stained glass windows designed by Kim en Joong, a Dominican priest.

St Mel’s Cathedral is Longford’s own Notre Dame story. Gutted by fire in 2009, it received an overwhelming show of public support and funding. Following a restoration costing €30 million it reopened in 2014. Thankfully the Harry Clarke windows in the transepts survived, but relics such as the St Mel’s Crozier that were in the museum below were lost. The new cathedral is a must visit owing to its attractive interior and as a testament to the will of the people to restore a building of much local pride.

Ardagh Village

Ardagh is the jewel in Longford’s crown. The village is a joy to walk through, past Tudor-Gothic cottages and old churches, with only the occasional car and the song of birds to break the silence. It’s located 10 km from Longford (again use that GPS).

Ardagh has the most significant history of all of Longford too. In pre-Christian times the nearby Ardagh Mountain was revered on a par with locations such as the Hill of Tara, Bru na Boinne, or Rath Cruachan in Roscommon. The ancient tale of Etain and Midir was associated with Bri Leith, the ancient name of the mountain. With the coming of St Patrick, he deemed it important enough to establish a church, and his disciple St Mel, founded one in the location of the present day Ardagh village. A church would always be on this site and to this day an 11th century ruin still stands.

The village as we see it today is as a result of the Fetherston family who settled here in 1745 and built the huge and impressive Ardagh House. It can sadly only be admired from afar. Though it was them who commissioned the development of the estate village, which is said to have been based on a Swiss model. I’m not surprised, though it does bear a resemblance to some of the UK’s finest. At the heart of the village is a triangle with an ornate clock tower, and protestant church flanking on two sides. Ardagh is also heavily linked to Oliver Goldsmith, one of the regions greatest writers.

Just don’t take my word for it on how beautiful Ardagh is. It has won Ireland’s tidiest village on three occasions and numerous European awards. Few locations in Ireland possess as much charm.

Lanesborough and Lough Ree

Lanesborough is Longford’s main town on the River Shannon, Ireland’s longest river which flows for 360 kilometres. Lanesborough is a 19th century town, though it has been an important crossing point of the River Shannon for centuries. The first bridge was built here 300 years ago, and was the first crossing of the river north of Athlone. Nowadays it is a 6 arch structure, and the rivers banks have some of Longford’s finest scenery.

Lough Ree Access For All boat trip

We travelled to lanesborough to take a boat trip on the Shannon with Lough Ree access for all. This company is one of a kind in Ireland and the UK. Their specially commissioned boat was designed and built to accommodate wheelchairs. Run as a registered charity it’s fantastic that they give the disabled the chance to do something which was never before possible. The trip is a relaxing cruise up the river, taking in Lanesborough harbour and the green forested banks, in the company of the very hospitable driver and tour guide. Though the weather wasn’t great for our trip, the boat is fully covered and is adept for all conditions.

Only opened in 2020, Access for All was the brainchild of Alan Broderick and Ciaran Mullooly. It took 5 years to fundraise the €200,000 needed to build the boat. They have received an amazing response on the national level and their good work is widely recognised.

In addition to the one and a half hour boat trips, they also offer three hour fishing trips on the river. Fish commonly caught here include Perch, Roach and especially Pike who can be up 9 kg in size. You can book your trip with Lough Ree Access For All here.

After spending the day soaking up all that lakeside air, stay the night in Longford town, and the luxurious Viewmount House. Take in a show at the Backstage Theatre if you can.

Royal Canal Greenway- Day 3 of the best things to do in Longford

Longford’s newest attraction will also possibly become its biggest. It’s one that has been there a long time but finally getting the focus it needs. The Royal Canal was a project started in 1790, but took 27 years to complete, costing a huge £1.4 million. The heyday of canals was slowly coming to an end at this time with rail on the horizon. By 1880 the canal was no longer used and fell into disrepair for over a century. In the modern era it is the towpaths that are getting all the attention.

In 2021 the culmination of planning came to fruition and Ireland’s newest greenway the Royal Canal Greenway was opened. At 130 km it is Ireland’s longest, and the route spans from Cloondara in Longford to Maynooth in Kildare. An excellent facility for lovers of outdoors, it’s path is along a non vehicular traffic route, and suits both cyclists and walkers. Plenty of local wildlife can be seen by the canal side too.

The Longford stretch of the Greenway passes picnic sites, coffee huts, ruins, locks, and some really interesting towns and villages. A branch of the canal can be used to cycle to Longford town too. Unmissable are Keenagh, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule.

Along the route you’ll come across bronze shoes. These are from the National Famine Way trail which commemorates the 1490 people that walked this way in 1847, starving and in seek of a new life. Half perished on the journey and these bronze shoes are a poignant tribute to them and their hardships.

Midlands Cycle Hub Bike Hire – Cloondara

Our introduction to the Royal Canal Greenway was in the small village of Cloondara, via the Midlands Cycle Hub. Run by Robert Crilly, he only set up the business in early 2021, but it is already a roaring success. The hub have a variety of bikes from hybrid bikes, and mountain bikes to children’s bikes. Bikes can be delivered to and dropped off at a number of locations including Longford, Ballymahon and Abbeyshrule, which is ideal for only cycling one way on the greenway. In addition, cycling tours can be arranged to suit different experience levels. Contact Midlands Cycle Hub to book yours.

Cloondara was the perfect place to begin. As the starting point of the Greenway, it’s where the canal meets an entry point to the River Shannon, and there is a beautiful harbour. Old mills nearby, have been preserved and converted into apartments, keeping the charms of the village. The bikes we got were excellent, putting to shame those that we have at home. We were pleasantly surprised how nice the greenway was to cycle on, at all times safe, peaceful and with green scenery around every gentle turn.

Before booking we had also arranged to get a picnic basket from the Richmond Inn. This is put together by the really pleasant Niamh, and they have a number of options to suit your budget. It’s fully recommended too as there are lots of beautiful picnic spots strewn along the route of the canal. Alternatively stop in at one of the coffee trailers or cafes at the various locks.

Keenagh

It’s 14 kilometres from Cloondara, to the first notable stop off the Greenway, Keenagh. The small village has Longford’s most important historical discovery, the Corlea Trackway. Besides that there are a number of ruins and structures all related to Mosstown House, an estate house of the Kingston family of the area. Those hungry after the cycle can check our Macs Shack in the centre.

The clock tower in Keenagh is an intriguing structure, built in honour of Laurence King-Harman, a local landlord who was considered fair and just. It dates from 1878.

Spare a few pedals for Mosstown Dovecote. It’s not easy to find this pigeon house, on a laneway not far from Mosstown Harbour on the canal, but it was once associated with Mosstown House which stood here. The three storey structure dates from 1750. Interesting that the pigeon house has outlasted the human house!

Corlea Trackway – the best thing to do in Longford for those with an interest in old Irish history

Keenagh’s and Longford’s finest archaeological site, was found in bogland a few kilometres outside the village. Dated at 147 BC it is the largest trackway of its kind to be found in Europe. Discovered in 1984, the Corlea Trackway is an Iron Age bog road that would have stretched for 1 kilometre over the surface of the bog allowing people and animals to cross. It was built using over 300 oak trees, that were expertly carved to link together and form a passable road. The huge effort in doing this suggests a massive public works scheme of its time, and gives evidence that it must have been carried out by someone of great importance.

However it can only be speculated as to the who, the why, or even the where to. The exact details of the trackway remain a mystery. Was it connecting some of Ireland’s great sites in the Hill of Tara, Hill of Uisneach and Rathcroghan? Was there something even greater, undiscovered at its end point? Was it built by Doc Brown so that his Delorean could build up enough speed to return after a disastrous attempt to time travel to the 60’s? No one will ever quite know. The closest clue comes in Irish mythology and the story the Wooing of Etain, where a king sets Midir a task of building a road in a bog where none other was.

All hope of some other clue in history was lost when the road succumbed to the bog and sank below the surface probably a decade after it was built. It lay there for two millennia waiting to be discovered.

The Corlea Trackway has an interesting visitor centre, complete with a video experience in an auditorium and lots of info on the country at that time and the building of the trackway. Then we get to see it in all its glory. A whole room is dedicated to the 18 metres stretch of trackway, preserving it in the exact location where it was found. It really gets the mind working as you gaze upon it.

Entry to the Corlea Trackway visitor centre is free.

There’s one more experience to be had here, in the walking trails surrounding. With trails stretching from 3 km to 7 km, there’s a lot of bog to see. Better still the trails are in great condition, so they can be cycled too. It’s an incredibly scenic bogs, with areas of wetlands, and some rather intriguing petrified trees. Wildlife was in abundance too and we spotted common lizards, as well as a huge population of butterflies and dragonflies. The inner macro photographer on me was immensely satisfied.

Ballymahon

A further 9 kilometers along the Greenway is the lively town of Ballymahon. The town has experienced good fortunes of late with the opening of the nearby Centre Parcs, and with it new restaurants and cafes have sprung up. Making it a good stop for the weary cyclist. On the approach from the Greenway there is some noteworthy street art by local artist Phil Atkinson. Ballymahon has some of Ireland’s widest streets which lends to the safety of cycling there.

Ballymahon is famed as the birth home of writer and one of Longford’s favourite sons, Oliver Goldsmith who was born in 1728 in the nearby Pallas (the house no longer exists but a monument to Goldsmith does). It’s found down some narrow country lanes though, so far from safe for cycling. Easier to find is the tribute to him on the banks of the River Inny, including a quote from the Deserted Village, one of his most popular works.

The River Inny is a popular place and hosts Inny kayaking, which we hope to return to do when they reopen after Covid. Also just outside the town is Newcastle Wood, a forest with long trails. Again, this was one walk to far for us on this trip, as was a visit to the forests popular attraction Center Parcs. Another three days in Longford please.

Abbeyshrule

Abbeyshrule is again 9 km from Ballymahon and is another of Longford’s charming village and a former recipient of Ireland’s tidiest village. Flanked on one side by the canal and on the other by River Inny, the village is defined by the bridges around it, and the impressive Whitworth Aqueduct which carries the canal over the Inny, via a five arch bridge. There are lovely walks from the village too, along the banks of the Inny.

However there is more to Abbeyshrule. The ruins of a 13th century Cistercian monastery are found on the village edge and worthy of exploring. For those with an adventurous edge, you can take to the sky at Abbeyshrule Aerodrome, where two flying clubs are based. Amateurs and professionals are welcome.

If you are a little more grounded, then perhaps Fiona Egan’s Cookery School is more to your taste. Using fresh home grown ingredients from the family farm, the cookery school approaches delicious cooking from a fun perspective and welcomes both adults and kids. Unfortunately we didn’t get to better our culinary skills due to Covid limitations.

Abbeyshrule is the last drop off location for bikes from the Midland Cycle Hub, and for those looking to spend the night, the food at the Rustic Inn and welcome at the Abbeyview House B&B are excellent.

Note there is no public transport links from Abbeyshrule, but there is a bus route (number 466, running twice daily) from Ballymahon to Longford.

Center Parcs Longford Forest

I’ve left the biggest perhaps the biggest draw for families the country over to Longford till last. The exclusive resort situated in over 400 acres of woodland can accommodate up to 2500 people 466 self-catering lodges and 30 apartments. The park boasts Ireland’s largest indoor waterpark, and hundreds of outdoor and indoor activities. There are a host of restaurants and cafes too. For those of a more mature mindset, the Aqua Sana Spa offers a range of treatments. Exactly where I would like to find myself after a day on the ziplines and waterpark. 3, 4 or 7 night says ca be booked direct with Center Parcs Longford Forest.

Transport to Longford

Longford is well serviced by both road and public transport links. By road, the N4 and M4 connect it to Dublin and Sligo, the N5 to Knock and Westport, with the N55 and A3 connecting to Belfast. Galway, and the west of Ireland is linked via the M6 and N55 which connects to Ballymahon.

The Dublin- Sligo train from Dublin Connolly station takes around 1 hour and 50 minutes, while bus routes 22 and 23 travel via Longford on their way to Sligo and Ballina respectively.

Ideally to see Longford’s attractions which are scattered throughout the county, a car is our recommended mode of travel.

Where to Stay in County Longford

Viewmount House – The finest hotel in Longford

Built in 1620 this Manor House played an important role in the history of Longford. The Baron of Longford, Lord Francis Xavier made it his home after being awarded his title. The house in its present day Georgian style was redesigned by Thomas Pakenham in the mid 1700s. A man with a good eye. After a few centuries as a school, and as a private home of a gardener and farm, the boutique hotel as we see it now emerged.

Trading for the last 30 years the hotel is the finest in the county. Each unique room is full of antiques and original pieces of art, all collected by the owners over the years. The many sitting rooms and library are akin to a museum. To walk through the hotel doors is as if to walk 100 years back in time. Modern conveniences are provided of course but subtlety.

We stayed in room 26, and were gobsmacked. The rooms take their names from the old families of Longford. The suites are dedicated to the Pakenhams, with ours called the Cuffe Suite. Spread across 2 floors, our suite was amazing. The upper was the bedroom while the lower was a huge spacious sitting room.

We marvelled at the intricate detail of the Victorian changing screen that filled one corner of the bedroom. It’s one of the many ornaments and works of art that decorated the room. But above all the room is comfortable, from the large king size bed to the couches below it. The bathroom features a jacuzzi bath to relax in, and I duly obliged to sink into that.

The gardens surrounding the house transport you into another time too, one where the houses 19th century residents used as a place of relaxation and solace. Statues and sculptures are dotted throughout including a magnificent pair of lions that guard its castellated gate. A rich variety of plants and shrubs fill the flower beds. A personal favourite was the water lilies in the pond.

Viewmount houses appeal extended beyond its furnishings. Breakfast is served in the Georgian dining room. The fantastic menu includes the expectant full Irish, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, and for those looking for something with a pinch of Longford tradition in it, the boxty benedict. Smoked bacon, poached eggs and tomato are served with boxty, a potato pancake that is indigenous to the Irish midlands.

Where Viewmount House really comes into its own is for dinner. Renowned as the best restaurant in Longford, it has also won awards as the best in the province of Leinster. No mean feat considering that includes Dublin. The lunch menu includes sea bass, lamb shoulder and the 48 hour roasted featherblade of beef, which is to die for. Dishes such as monkfish, quail, grilled scallop and pork belly are found on the dinner menu.

It’s worth coming to Longford merely for the experience of dining and staying at Viewmount House. A true hidden gem. Book your stay direct at Viewmount House.

Bramblewick House

Our first night in Longford was spent glamping in the grounds of Bramblewick House. If you are looking for an alternative place to stay in Longford, look no further.  The glamping experience comes in the form of Shepherds Huts, that have a level of comfort that even the most hotel loyal traveller (that’s us) will enjoy. 

Bramblewick House is run by Amy, and as well as the two glamping huts, she runs a handmade craft business from home selling soap, candles, crotchet, wooden boxes and notebooks. It all adds to the authentic atmosphere and Amy is a delight, welcoming us into her home to see her crafts. At the moment they are adding a craft workshop to allow her to expand the business.  

Originally from the UK, she moved to the area 5 years ago and started to pursue her dream. Speaking of the area, the house is found up a narrow lane near the town of Drumlish. It’s quite the peaceful setting. 

The two huts have different themes, with ours called the chicken hut. Chickens are a constant theme throughout, and the place is full of little touches all making it warm and cosy. From the outside they seem small, but is instead Tardis like. A double bed, kitchen, and full bathroom all fit together in a perfect layout inside. Hot water and cooking is provided by gas. 

There’s more! Each hut has its owned seated area, and the gardens have a BBQ area to enjoy a few beers around. The gardens are worthy of exploring and contain some whimsical statues. Though it’s best not to stray to the bees at the end. 

You’ll have to bring your own food as with all glamping, but there’s a large supermarket in the nearby Drumlish. Alternatively, Longford is only ten minutes drive away so you can always grab an Indian from Spice India like we did. Then relax the night away in perfect rural surroundings. Book your stay at Bramblewick House here. 

AbbeyView House

The last stop of the Longford section of the Royal Canal Greenway is Abbeyshrule, and there is truly nowhere better to stay than Abbeyview House. There is a real genuine and warm welcome from Susan and her family who live in at this beautiful B&B. 

The house itself was built in 1830 or thereabouts and is possibly the combination of two different houses. It’s history traces back to a mill owner who converted it into the large building it is now. After passing through various hands it served as a police barracks for 50 years. The owners bought it 7 years ago and converted into B&B in 2019. 

It has a real feel of an authentic country house of the time. High ceilings, fireplaces, art, and grandfather clocks add to that air. Our room was up two flights of stairs, and was once the bedroom of the master of the house. The large room was adjoined by his changing room, where servants would change and wash him. 

Great care has been taken to keep the room as it might have been, with panelled walls, art, and floral tiles. Of course the modern conveniences such as showers have been added. A freestanding bath is the centerpiece of the room though. For anyone who has spent a long day on the Greenway, this is Mecca. No better way to soak those tired limbs. 

Of course a B&B is only as good as the second B there, and Abbeyview House serves up an excellent one. The spread on the table is classical, with fine porcelain and good variety. We settled for the full Irish, and the huge breakfast set us right up for a day of travelling. 

Abbeyview house have plans to add glamping to their services over the next year, as numbers on the Greenway are steadily increasing.  

Where to Eat and Drink in County Longford

Resturants

Vocellas 

Vocellas represents a good option in Longford for those looking for a more European cuisine. Located on Main street, their menu is mainly Mediterranean with distinct Italian and Spanish influences. They provide both indoor and outdoor dining at the moment. Service was very pleasant and the food was delicious in particular the calamari starter. Items such as Bolognese, carbonara, and penne all’arrabbiata are complemented by burgers and steaks.

Viewmount House

I’ve already sold the merits of dining in Viewmount House, in that it is undoubtedly the finest restaurant in the county. An experience worth having. See more in the Viewmount House section above.

Spice India 

Spice India, found on Ballymahon Street Longford, is part of a chain with branches across the midlands. Spice India has won the best World Cuisine award for Leinster on in 2 of the last 4 years. Of the two restaurants Spice India is more traditional with only a few Thai dishes straying into the menu. We only tried the Korma, which was creamy and full of flavour. I’ll be back.

Bars and Bar Food

Valentines 

Valentines on Main Street is, and has been the centre of nightlife in Longford for several decades now. They don’t serve food, instead focus on their liquid output. It’s the perfect place to try one of the craft beers from the local St Mels Brewery.

The Rustic Inn 

The village of Abbeyshrule is dominated by The Rustic Inn, a fine gastro pub. With a roaring hearth to warm you in winter, and lots of outdoor seating it’s equipped for all seasons. The food is hearty too as one would expect. Irish and European is the theme, so BBQ chicken wings, deep fried brie, salmon, plaice and several steaks are featured. The steaks featured on our plates too. The Irish Hereford fillet was huge cooked perfect, and was extraordinarily good value. Unfortunately it left no space for dessert.

Cafes and Bakeries

The Wooden Spoon 

This colourful café sits in the heart of Lanesborough and beckoned us in after our boat trip. They offer a menu that is extraordinary value for money, but with huge portions and packing plenty of taste. Trust me, we didn’t complain. The burgers came fully loaded with chips, salad and onion rings on the plate. Irish and European staples again fill the menu, proving they are very popular with the locals here.

O’Hehirs Bakery and Café 

A great stop for those who like their lunches fast and baked like I do. The bakery sells a good selection of baked goods, while the café has sandwiches, sausage rolls and other warm tasties. Don’t leave town without picking up one of their Apple pies, they are as good as any I’ve ever tasted.  

Red Rose Cafe 

With over 20 years presence on Longford’s Dublin Street, the Red Rose Café has consistently been serving traditional and comforting food to the town. The interior is warm and snug and bright art greets you at the entrance. The menu won’t surprise with offerings such as all day breakfast, turkey and ham, salmon and burgers, but sometimes that’s just what you need. A firm favourite of my mum and dad. Excellent value too.

30 Flavours of Portugal. 

A recent opening in town, this bakery is found next to Aldi, so if your picking up provisions it’s definitely worth nipping into. The baked goods are baked by a Portuguese native, so you can guarantee the pastel de natas are done the right way. They are delicious and cheap as chips too.

From cultural and historical experiences, good dining, to a whole host of outdoor walking and cycling routes, there is no shortage of things to enjoy in Longford. It is certainly a county where tourism is on the rise.

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I make no secret of my love of County Clare in Ireland. Beata and I have travelled here three times over the years we have been together. The place keeps drawing us back. But up until now, we never found the place to stay in that we truly loved. Enter Doolin on the Wild Atlantic Way! It will be hard to look elsewhere for our next trip west to the Banner County.

Oddly up until now I’ve never written about Clare, always feeling that I need to know more before I can paint a true picture of just how great a place it is. But of late I’m getting there. So let’s begin with what to do in Doolin Ireland.

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Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

11 Excellent Things to do in Doolin

Visit the Cliffs of Moher

Of course we will start with the Cliffs of Moher as the number one thing to do in Doolin. If not Ireland. Those magnificent cliffs rise and fall for 14 kilometres along the Atlantic coastline, hitting a highest point of 214 metres. It’s one of Ireland’s biggest attractions, shaped by nature over 300 million years ago, and receives over 1.5 million visitors a year. The principal way to access to cliffs is at the visitor centre. This is open from 8am to 9pm, and the prices vary throughout the day. Visitors must book online here before coming. For those who travel by car there is a large parking facility.

First stop of a visit is the exhibition on the cliffs and the gift shop. But the cliffs are why you are here so don’t spend too long. That iconic view looking south along the cliffs is practically the first thing you see. This One…

At the high point of the cliffs you’ll see O’Brien’s Tower, which was built in 1835 as a lookout tower. The tower has been reopened and can be seen on some guided tours. From here, it’s up to you where you go. Trails go north towards Doolin, or south to Moher Tower built to keep an eye out for Napoleon. He never came. The castle that once stood here gave the cliffs its name. Bear in mind whichever way you go you’ll have to come back. You can guarantee though that all the way you’ll see some of Ireland’s best views.

It’s nearly always windy on the Cliffs of Moher (in my experience) so come prepared for that. And when I say windy I mean windy. Wrap up!

Doolin to Cliffs of Moher Walk

The cliffs of Moher can also be visited by walking the 8 kilometres from Doolin, along a spectacular route near the cliffs edge. You can do this by yourself by taking the R459 south from Doolin and joining the cliff path. Don’t fancy the coastal walk all on your own? Then join up with a small group walking tour with Ollie’s Tours, which runs daily at 10am from Doolin.

Bask in the Cliffs of Moher Sunset

If there’s one time of day that I love to be on the Cliffs of Moher it’s sunset. Be sure to arrive an hour before sunset to get out onto the cliffs to a place where you can appreciate it. Even though the car park closes at nine – don’t worry about that, you can still get out. So take your time and appreciate natures daily marvel. Every part of the cliffs provide a somewhat different angle, as the path drops and rises. My favourite is surely with O’Brien’s Tower as the foreground though.

Stroll through Doolin’s Colourful Village Centre, a foodie haven.

Doolin village is one built for postcards, especially that famed view from the bridge over the River Aille. The thatched cottage here is one of the most famous in Ireland, bright pink with a pair of dormer windows. It houses the sweater shop nowadays, a hint to what lies down the road at the pier (and over the ocean).

But the village is more than a cottage, and sprawls back up along both sides of the road, with more than enough restaurants, pubs and craft shops to keep any visitor content. Foodies will be delighted by Anthony’s, the Cheese Press, Russells Fish Shop, Glas, the Ivy Cottage Cafe, and the Stonewall Cafe, which serve the best in local and artisan produce.

Have a night out in Doolin Pubs and their traditional Irish music scene

Doolin is famed for its long association with traditional Irish Music and to this day it’s pubs continue that tradition. Some say Doolin is the home of Irish music (though Connemara might have a thing to say about that). The legacy centres on the Russell Brothers, Pakie, Micho, and Gussie, legends in their field. They were widely regarded as the best Irish musicians around, with Gussie in particular finding international fame and renown.

Their chosen venue in Doolin was Gus O’Connors pub which has been around since 1832. Though the Russell’s are sadly no longer with us, the pub and budding new musicians keep the sessions going. It’s hard to look past O’Connors when looking for a great night out in Doolin, and don’t plan an early start the following day. There’s always a session to be found elsewhere though and McGann’s, McDermotts and Fitzpatrick’s bars have live music several nights a week too.

*It’s worth noting that under current coronavirus restrictions, pubs aren’t permitted to have live music. Let’s hope we get the craic back soon.

Go down 80 metres into Doolin cave to see Europe’s largest stalactite

So we’ve all been to show caves, and lets be honest now they aren’t too much different than each other. You might even have visited the far more popular Aillwee Caves down the road in the Burren. So why would you bother with the Doolin Cave you ask? Because it’s different. Doolin Cave is home to the Great Stalactite, which at 7.3 metres tall (are stalactites tall if they grow downwards?) is the largest free-hanging stalactite in Europe.

The caves are visited by guided tour between 10-6. Prices are €17.50 for an adult, or €8.50 for a child. The guided tour lasts an hour, and takes you down 120 steps and 80 metres to reach the cave, so remember this if you plan to visit. But if you think that’s hard imagine spelunkers who crawled for hours in the dark to find it. Now there’s a nice path, flanked by a subterranean river, which leads us through the caves features. There are some amazing fossils embedded in the cave walls, echoes of a time long gone. One crinoid is 360 million years old.

The tours main focus is the stalactite and its introduced in style. To preserve it, it usually sits in darkness, but of course that wouldn’t be much fun. So when the tour reaches it, the lights are flung on and it is unveiled in all its splendor. Yes it’s huge, overshadowing a large cavern. The path is carefully managed to allow us to appreciate it from all sides and learn about its development over 250,000 years. Then once more it returns to darkness and us to finish the tour.

Taste the best of Doolin food on a Food Tour

One of the best experiences in Doolin is taking the Doolin Food Tour with Ollie’s Tours. Full of banter and stories, and of course lots of great food. The tours are run by Ollie, a lad with Clare in his heart, who returned from Germany with a dream of showing Clare to visitors. With a strong seafood focus, the small group tour moves from Doolin to Lisdoonvarna, as we sample organic Irish Salmon, fish and chips, Irish cheeses, and coffee.

Of course it wouldn’t be Irish without a stop in a pub, and the tour does this. Twice. Firstly, the Burren Brewery presents it’s unique craft beers, before J.J. Corry whiskey bonders teach us about the art of blending whiskey. One assumes you’ve already figured the art of drinking it.

The tour is a must for foodies in Doolin, and we thoroughly enjoyed our experience with Ollie’s Tours. Have a read about it.

Take in the Doonagore Castle views

Located on a hill above the village of Doolin, is this fairytale-like castle. Sadly Doonagore Castle privately owned and not possible to visit the interior. So there’s no point visiting is there. Au contraire, there’s every point. Being only a few minutes walk or drive from Doolin, take the same route as you would to walk to the Cliffs of Moher. Instead of turning along the path to the cliffs, stick to the road and the climb to the castle. This is the first of those wonderful views. The second is when you round the corner and the castle, coastline and Atlantic Ocean stretch out before you. Beautiful.

Take care if you are driving up as parking spaces are non existent. For safety’s sake stay away from the bend and pull in further along the road. Pedestrians keep an eye out for cars on this narrow single lane road.

The Castle is a round tower house, about 450 years old and was built by the O’Connors or the O’Briens. They were two of the more powerful families in the area. It’s darkest history came in 1588 when 170 soldiers from a ship of the liberating Spanish Armada landed here. Their journey ended here with the hangman’s noose, and the armadas mission ended in failure.

Cliffs of Moher cruise

Not that I’m hung up on the Cliffs of Moher (and you shouldn’t be either as its the best things to do in Doolin) but there is one more way to see the Cliffs of Moher. Why not see them from the other side. The bottom. Doolin 2 Aran Ferries offer boat tours of the cliffs through the Atlantic Ocean.

If the excitement of seeing the cliffs from the bottom isn’t enough, let me throw in some puffins. From April to July the clowns of the sea nest in the rocks here. Along with some 20,000 other birds including razorbills, shags, and all manner of gulls. The 50 minute tour can be booked on the website. Better still it can be combined with a trip to the Aran Islands.

Aran islands – The best things to do in Doolin, which isn’t in Doolin

The Aran Islands have some of the wildest landscapes in the country, and are easily recognised by the stone walls that zigzag from coast to coast. Doolin 2 Aran ferries offer a number of sailings each day to all three islands from Doolin pier. Each of them is easily visited on a day trip from Doolin. The largest of the islands is Inis Mor, and it’s also the most visited. Of the other two Inis Oirr is the more popular, with the Plassey Shipwreck a big draw.

For those short on time, Inis Mor is the best option. A 10 am sailing will give 5 hours on the island before a return boat at 4pm. Once there, it’s worth noting that the only cars on the island are owned by locals, so there are 3 ways to get around, by bus tour, horse and carriage or renting a bike. The most liberating is the bike tour and with Aran Bike Hire located just as you get off the boat, the easiest also. They’ll give you a handy map of the island to get around with too.

A bike lets you see the island as you would want. Take one of the old narrow farm tracks as we did. You can’t get lost really, it’s a small island. Lost in your own happiness maybe. There are some sights you might want to visit, such the church at Teampaill Bheanain, beehive huts at Clochan na Carraige, and Kilmurvey Beach.

But Inis Mor’s main draw are the 3000 year old stone forts Dun Duchathair and Dun Aonghasa. The latter in particular is very impressive sitting at the top of 87 metre cliffs, and exposed to the wild Atlantic. From its elevated portion Inis Mor’s barren landscape stretches out, a stark reminder of what life might have been like here a few millennia ago. Take care on the cliff edge, nothing separates you from the long drop to the ocean below.

Red Bull fans will have to seek out the Wormhole, an unusual rectangular hole, that looks like a natural swimming pool. Red Bull used it for a diving competition. It’s not as inviting as it look though, several people have had to be rescued from it, as they were nearly washed out to sea. Enjoy with your eyes is my advice.

Carrying cash on the Aran Islands is a must as some services such as the bike hire only accept it. A rain jacket is a must too, as there’s not much shelter out there, and this be Ireland. Of course there’s nothing better to overcome the wind here than a warm sweater, and this is Aran, home of the sweater. A trip to Aran isn’t complete without a stop into the Aran Sweater Shop in Kilronan.

Stay and eat in the Doolin Inn

Looking for an overnight option in Doolin? Look no further than the Doolin Inn. It’s ranked among the top ten inns in the country. My first question was what’s the difference between an inn, a Hotel, and a B&B. I guess it lies somewhere in the middle. The Doolin Inn exceeded expectations, and would slot in easily as a very good four star hotel.

The staff were superb, room was comfortable and clean, and the food… The food was simply amazing. All served in Anthony’s restaurant, which takes its name from the owner. Breakfast nailed the recent inability to have a buffet by bringing a mini one to your table, and the pancakes, omelette and old full Irish were perfect. Dinner is just as amazing. Perfect was the prawns and chorizo. Options like Fillet steak, cod with couscous, risotto and halibut keep the consistency going into the mains. It’s a great one-stop-shop for your trip to Doolin.

Booking.com

Planning a trip to Doolin? Save a pin on the 11 Best Things to do in Doolin for future reference.

The Best European Road Trips

Europe Road Trips – The Causeway Coastal Route

Ireland has more than its fair share of excellent road trips. One that deserves its place on any list is the Causeway Coastal Route, a 212 km route that traces its way from Belfast to Derry, past some truly sensational scenery.

The coastal road trip itinerary can be completed in a day for those in a rush, but in honesty, it’s not a place to rush. At a minimum, two days should be spent exploring its many facets, while you could easily spend four or five here. At each end, Belfast and Derry are two very different cities, with both having played a significant part in the Troubles that afflicted Northern Ireland for several decades.

Beginning your trip by leaving Belfast, the attractions don’t really kick in until the coast beckons at Carrickfergus, and its foreboding castle. From there they come thick and fast, as you can see why Game of Thrones picked this area for much of its sets. Fans of the show will have to see the Dark Hedges, Cushenden caves and especially Dunluce Castle. It has one of the most haunting settings on the whole of the island.

The road itself is as much as an attraction following a route that opens up fantastic views of headlands and beaches. With a never-ending list of castles, national parks and attractions, those days on the road can be spent busy.

The north coast is where you’ll be looking to spend most of your time. Unmissable is the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, and the opportunity to test your fear of heights. All roads do ultimately lead to the Giants Causeway, the UNESCO World Heritage Site, that hardly needs an introduction. Every epic road trip needs its centerpiece and this geological phenomenon will not disappoint.

If you are planning on driving in Ireland, then my driving guide includes travel tips on driving on the left, car rentals, meeting random animals in the road, and a host of other unique Irish problems.

Road Trips Europe – The Ring of Kerry

At the other end of Ireland, in a county known as the kingdom by its locals, is another similar road trip. The Ring of Kerry is an 179 km loop through what is certainly the most beautiful part of Ireland. It’s a route that by rights needs four days to truly appreciate, but you can do the Ring of Kerry in as little as a two day road trip.

This epic European road begins in Killarney, and providing you haven’t enjoyed the town a little too much (it has a roaring nightlife), you should set out early. You will spend the first day just exploring around here, its lakes are the setting of the Killarney National Park, Muckross Abbey and House, and Ross Castle. No visit to Killarney is complete without a trip on a jaunting car with their talkative Jarveys.

On Day two we hit the road properly, as our road trip route climbs above the lakes. Take a walk to Torc Waterfall one of Ireland’s best hiking trails, before marvelling at the views from Ladies View and Molls Gap. The coastal town of Kenmare makes a good base for those looking to spend plenty of time on the Ring.

The next stage of this Ireland road trip travels through an area of coastal views and ancient ruins. For those that the weather plays fair with a visit to Skellig Michael is a must. Luke Skywalker retired here, so it has to be good.

There’s more still to the Ring of Kerry, as its wild side takes a back seat, and the return part of the loop passes through beautiful towns such as Waterville, Cahirciveen and Killorglin. There’s plenty of opportunity to stop and appreciate the Atlantic too, as Derrynane and Rossbeigh are some of the country’s best beaches.

The Ring of Kerry can be driven as part of the Wild Atlantic Way, which is a 2500 km route up the entire west of Ireland.

Iceland Ring Road

Contributed by Gary from changeofplan.co.uk

If you are looking for a circular road trip with an epic difference then look no further than Iceland. Most travellers arrive in Iceland through the international airport at Keflavik, just west of the island’s capital city, Reykjavik.

Assuming a clockwise navigation, you could divert west traversing a peninsula leading to the magnificent Snæfellsjökull, or slightly further north, head into the Western Fjörds.  Avoiding these options to save time could make your first stop the town of Akureyi. With all amenities and plentiful accommodation, it is an excellent base to explore some of the highlights in Northern Iceland.  Similarly, the Eastern fjörds are serviced by Egilsstaðir, the largest town in the region.  On the southern section, there are many options for accommodation compared to the rest of Iceland, from Höfn in the east across to Vik toward the west.

The whole Route 1 road trip takes you on a very special journey, passing lava fields, snow-capped mountains, geysers, thermal rivers, and glaciers to name but a few of the amazing sights.  Single carriageway roads dominate and you can travel long distances observing just a handful of other travellers.

Many of the attractions you can enjoy on the Route 1 circuit are natural wonders.  To the north,  Husavik and whale watching trips contrast against the traditional attractions like Goðafoss waterfall and the geothermal mud pools at Hverir.  You can enjoy hiking the East fjörds taking in the delightfully picturesque port town of Seydisfjordur or seal spotting on a coastal hike near Husey where you could meet their famous horses.  

Many highlights can be found on the southern section of Route 1.  For photographers, there is the spectacular headland at Stokksnes and the further west you enter ‘glacier’ country with Hoffellsjökull offering a less crowded experience than popular glacial tours.  The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon offers boat trips among the icebergs, with the delights of Diamond Beach a short walk away.  

As you head back toward Reykjavik, you have some amazing attractions, with Seljalandsfoss waterfall offering the opportunity to walk behind the wall of falling water.  Before arriving back in the capital, which is a destination in its own right, you can take a short hike to the Reykjadalur Thermal hot springs and bathe in the glorious heat of the thermal pools.  Whilst similar to the Blue Lagoon, it offers you a less ‘touristy’ experience.

A complete circuit of the island using Iceland’s Route 1 is approximately 1320km (820 miles), and dependent on your pace and itinerary, you could expect it to take between 7-10 days.

Southwest France Road Trip

Contributor:  Hannah from https://nouvelleaquitainetravel.com/

A road trip through the Southwest of France will take you from ancient pilgrimage sites to wine country, along the wild Atlantic Coast, and into the Basque Country on the border of Spain.  Unlike the saturated Mediterranean coast, the Southwest is a veritable feast of lesser-known sites and gorgeous road trip stops.

Start your journey in Bordeaux.  With a decent-sized international airport, Bordeaux benefits from good transport links and all the major hire-car companies.  Stop awhile in Bordeaux and St Emilion to partake in some wine education.  There is even a wine museum in Bordeaux, with a rooftop tasting room.

From Bordeaux, head inland along the Dordogne River valley.  The villages along this lush valley are steeped in religious history.  Some even form part of an old pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.  Stop at Brantôme and Périgueux to see ancient cathedrals and stunning architecture.  In the city of Périgueux there is a church designed by the same architect responsible for Sacre Cœur in Montmartre, Paris.

Spend some time exploring the Valley of the Five Châteaux in the Dordogne.  There are 5 castles within a few square miles, a remarkably concentrated area of medieval history.  Set aside 2-3 days to explore this part of the Dordogne.

Head south towards the Pyrenees mountains.  If history is your preference, then I suggest you visit Lourdes.  This pilgrimage town is said to have healing waters, and The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes is a spectacular cathedral.  If you want to see more of the Pyrenees, take a ride on the Train of Artouste, the highest narrow-gauge train in Europe.

After all this history and castle-hunting, you’ll be needing some sea air and nature.  Indulge in the glitz of Biarritz, chocolate in Bayonne, and the wild beaches of the Atlantic coast.  Finish your road trip of the Southwest of France by climbing the massive sand dune, the Dune of Pilat.

This route is approximately 2000 km and should take around 2-weeks.  If you have longer, you can add La Rochelle, Royan, and Ile de Ré to your itinerary.  While many flock to the glamourous Mediterranean coast; the Southwest has just as many quaint towns, beautiful ports and dynamic landscapes to explore.

The North Coast 500 of Scotland

By Clazz from An Orcadian Abroad

There are a lot of fantastic road trips in Scotland, but the one everybody’s talking about is just as good as everyone says it is: the North Coast 500. As the name implies, it takes in a 500-mile loop of the north coast of Scotland, exploring rugged landscapes and beautiful beaches that you can have all to yourself. Part of the attraction is the remote location, and there is something magical about the truly wild nature that the route takes you to.

Most people start and end in Inverness, or incorporate it into a larger Scotland road trip, and being a loop it’s easy to tackle it either clockwise or anti-clockwise. The North Coast 500 sure packs in a lot too, and I’d recommend around a week to complete it (though people have been known to do it in two or three days, I definitely wouldn’t recommend this!).

Some of the best stops on the North Coast 500 road trip include the now infamous Bealach Na Ba (translated to “pass of the cattle” – a steep, winding single track road), Ullapool, Achmelvich Beach, Smoo Cave, John O’ Groats with the nearby Duncansby Stacks, and Dunrobin Castle. In truth, there are endless viewpoints, castles, beaches, waterfalls, and even islands to visit on the route, along with world-class seafood and excellent wildlife from deer to dolphins. In the summer, you might spot puffins and even whales!

Assynt offers some of the best hiking in the country, while the very northwest coast of Sutherland rustles up some of the best beaches like Sandwood Bay and Ceannabeinne Beach. Wester Ross is full of even more great scenery around Torridon and Loch Maree, and the Black Isle is often overlooked but may just be your best chance to spot dolphins at Chanonry Point! Caithness puts you into neolithic territory, exploring cairns dating back thousands of years, and this can be continued with a trip to Orkney, a popular addition to the NC500 route.

The North Coast 500 covers some of Scotland’s most remote places, which means that many of the roads are single track which can be a challenge for drivers who haven’t driven on them before, and journeys are regularly delayed by road obstructions such as sheep and Highland cows. As with many road trips, this makes the NC500 as much about the journey as the destinations, which is just part of what makes it so great.

Outlandish Scotland Tour

Contributed by Sabine who can be found on Twitter @ararewoman

For fans of the series Outlander following the books by Diana Gabeldon you may want to explore Scotland on a fan tour to see the filming locations of the series.

Most of the locations are concentrated around the area of Glasgow and Edinburgh and usually within a days reach so you can start your journey either from Edinburgh or from Glasgow changing hotels only once. The cities are well connected by train or bus which is approximately 1hr 20 min drive.

In Glasgow visit John Street near George Square, Glasgow Cathedral, the cloisters at Glasgow University, Dowanhill Street, and Kelvingrove Park that served as Boston. Don’t forget St Andrew’s in the Square that on top of being used for Outlander filming was used by Bonnie Prince Charly as camp in 1745. You can find a lot of Outlander filming references in the locations by now that explain the sets. Or ask the friendly staff who are usually really excited about telling you the details.

Your first day tour takes you to Cumbernaud film studios, Ivy Cottage, Doune Castle and Drummond Castle and back to Glasgow. The second day tour will take you 2 hrs drive further north to see Kinloch Rannoch or Craigh na Dun, then return via Glencoe and Finnich Glen.

Day 3 will bring you to your next hotel in Edinburgh via Fannyside Mill, Calendar House, Bo’ness and Linlithgow Palace. (16)

Enjoy day 4 in Edinburgh strolling along the Royal Mile discovering Holyrood Palace, Bakehouse Close, Signet Library, Tweeddale Court and The World’s End pub.

Your next day tour will take you to Hopetown House and Midhope Castle that is Lallybroich. Continue to Blackness Castle before crossing the Firth of Forth to get to Culross to see the palace, the market and West Kirk.

Day 6 start very early for the 3 hr drive to Culloden battlefield monument. Visit the museum and return via Dysart Harbour and Aberdour Castle.

The next day start early to see the Highland Folk Museum 2 hr drive from Edinburgh and return via Tibbermore Church near Perth to Falkland. Stroll the streets and visit Falkland Palace before returning to Edinburgh.

A trip south on day 8 takes you to Glencourse House where you can see the wedding chapel. On the way back stop at Roslin Glen Country Park and Craigmillar Castle.

As some of the sites aren’t regularly open to the public you best contact them in advance for your planning. Coordinates and contact details can be found on one of the Outlander filming location sites.

You can add in usual tourist attractions and extend your journey. If you don’t want to drive yourself there are also tour companies offering guided trips for your convenience. Any queries contact @ararewoman via Twitter.

European Road Trip – Dolomites

Contributed by Patrick Kenny, who tweets at Beyond The Last Blue Mountain (@beyond_last) / Twitter, and is soon to publish his book about travelling in Central Asia, including a focus on orientalism and prejudice in historic travel writing of the region.

It’s a sonata, the atmosphere among the limestone crags of the Dolomites: the air is crisp, the scent of wildflowers flirts around the hills, and the world around you expands out in mighty high-definition.

Tectonic plates carved the cliffs and valleys – considered a World Heritage site – but humans have left their mark too; most importantly, they’ve marked out ribbons of tarmac that make this area of northern Italy a perfect road-trip destination for a five-to-ten day trip that will take you about 600km.

Assuming you’re heading north from Venice or Verona (where car rental is normally cheaper than in the mountains), you can wind your way up into the Alps. The town of Trento is worth a visit for its historic centre, equipped with cathedral, castle, and piazzas dripping with espressos and Aperol.

Further into the mountains, you’ll reach Bolzano, the provincial capital of South Tyrol. It’s not small, but the winding streets, pastel-painted houses, and looming hills give it a charming, provincial atmosphere. There is plenty to see here: the dramatic Castel Roncolo, Ötzi, the regions oldest resident, preserved in ice for over 5,000 years, or the serene churches and monasteries. Plenty of places to stay too – Hotel Figl and Hotel Greif are particularly comfortable.

After a night or two, drive east, stopping at the stunning Lago di Carezza before reaching the dramatic hairpin bends at Passo Pordoi. You can also take the cable car from here for even more spectacular views of the cliff-faces that hem the Italian peninsula.

Double-back slightly and head north-west. Ortisei is the next charming town and an excellent base for some of the world-class hiking in the area and the via ferratas: exhilarating rock climbs that wind their way up the mountain faces. There is plenty of lovely chalet-style accommodation; Hotel Dolomiti Madonna is an affordable and well-located option.

Continue north and then cut eastward to visit some of the smaller villages and hamlets of the area including Ranui, with the famous church of San Giovanni, set in the rolling meadows. Any of the towns along the SS49 are good options to stay in; drive along until you find one that takes your fancy. San Lorenzo di Sebato is a convenient spot and the Gasthof Traube a pleasant hotel.

Begin to turn south and, on your way, a must-do is the hike around the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, three vast and trunkless legs of stone that have become an enduring image of the Dolomites. A little further and you reach Cortina D’Ampezzo, yet another beautiful town wedged between the folding landscape. As ever, there’s plenty of choice when it comes to accommodation, but Hotel Villa Gaia is particularly nice.

Finally, follow the roads back towards Venice, probably the most well-connected airport in the region, turning your back on some of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe.

The Amalfi Coast Road Trip

By Kasia from amongstromans.com

Considered one of the most spectacular coastlines in the world, the Amalfi Coast is a road tripper’s paradise. This iconic drive takes visitors through a winding, narrow road that snakes between terraced cliffs filled with lemon groves and wedding cake-like towns that seem to be carved out of the hills.

The Amalfi Drive, officially known as SS163, offers 38 km (24 miles) of stunning coastline views. Nestled between the port city of Salerno and the jagged coast of Sorrento, the drive is an experience for the senses. Neither town is officially part of the Amalfi Coast, but both are great starting points for accessing this stunning drive.

There are 13 small villages and towns that make up the Amalfi Coast. They are nestled along the cliffs and a rugged shoreline that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea. While most visitors visit the well-known towns of Amalfi, Positano and Ravello, there is also plenty of charm in the lesser-known towns.

The Amalfi Coast is a culinary, cultural and visual feast for the senses. Lemon groves, vineyards, and fishing are staples here. Visitors can indulge in local specialties ranging from Limoncello, wine, and great pasta and fish dishes. The area is famous for local ceramics and fabrics, which can be bought all over the coast.

The Amalfi Coast is also a great place for hiking. Its famous “Sentiero degli Dei” (The Path of the Gods) offers unapparelled views of the area and the nearby island of Capri. If you need some water therapy, there are many beaches along the way where you can relax under cheerful umbrellas and soak up some sun.

The Amalfi Coast can be done as a continuous drive (one way or return), but you’ll get more out of the experience by stopping along the way. There are occasional viewpoints where you can pull over, but the road is very narrow and can get very busy. There is one lane in each direction and endless steep curves that disappear around every corner. Caution should always be exercised while driving and when pulling over.

Parking is available, but it is also limited. There is a large parking garage in Amalfi, which is a great spot for a break. From Amalfi, you can access ferries to the nearby islands and hop between the other towns. Parking is about €5/hr in the parking garage, less on the streets if available.

Málaga to Lisbon: Exploring the very best of Southern Spain and Portugal

Controbuted by Ryan from asinglestep.co.uk

With a busy international airport that offers consistently reasonable fares from across the UK, Málaga is the perfect gateway to explore Southern Spain and Portugal. A 14-day road trip between Málaga and Lisbon takes in outstanding natural beauty, stunning Moorish architecture, and incredibly historic cities dating back over 3,500 years. 

Your road trip starts in Málaga, where for the first couple of days of your trip you can explore the home of Pablo Picasso and Antonio Banderas. A short stay in the city has everything to offer, from a 1st Century AD Roman theatre, an 11th Century Moorish Alcazaba, and a series of excellent beaches. Before moving on from the city make sure to visit some of the museums, including the dedicated Picasso Museum, as well as some of the impressive architecture and local churches. 

On your way to Ronda, less than 2 hours from Málaga, the more adventurous travellers should stop off at the vertigo-inducing Caminito del Rey. Rising over 300ft above the El Chorro gorge, El Caminito has been dubbed the ‘world’s most dangerous walkway’ but has been reopened to the daring public since 2015. For the ultimate luxury once you arrive in Ronda, stay in the local Parador, located just on the famous Puente Nuevo, a bridge boasting an incredible feat of architecture that spans the 120-metre gorge splitting the city in two. Ronda also offers a range of Moorish architecture, from some of the best-preserved Arab baths to the Mondragón Palace, home of Abbel Mallek, who ruled briefly over what was Moorish Ronda’s golden age.

Your next week is split between the equally dreamy cities of Cádiz and Seville. The drive to and from Ronda is full of plenty of charm, climbing up and down the mountainous region that surrounds the city. Top picks in Cádiz include the hugely dominating and impressive Cathedral, offering panoramic views of the city from the Bell Tower; castles, towers, and theatres; a central market typically thriving with Spanish life; and El Populo, considered the oldest neighbourhood in Europe. 

In the searingly hot Seville (seriously, avoid visiting in August!) you can immerse yourself in the history, heritage, and culture of my favourite Spanish city. Don’t miss the iconic semi-circular Plaza de España, where you could be lucky enough to catch some free, authentic flamenco. Nearby, you also have the neighbouring Alcazar and the Cathedral that houses La Giralda, a 340ft bell tower incorporating the minaret of the original mosque that stood on the site. Food is certainly your friend in Seville, so make sure to wander around the Northern neighbourhoods of La Macarena and Alameda to find great tapas and drinks, before heading to the Metropol Parasol as the sun sets for enviously beautiful golden views across the city

On your way to Lisbon, your final destination, you have a number of choices for your penultimate stay. Plenty of options lie in Portugal’s Algarve, including favourites Faro, Portimão, and Lagos, as well as the sleepy former fishing village of Burgau. As you make the way down the Portuguese coast, make sure to stop off at Benagil Caves, one of the Algarve’s hottest and most spectacular attractions. 

You will finish your road trip in Lisbon, Portugal’s capital. Spend your last few days exploring the famous old neighbourhood of Alfama; photographing the iconic yellow trams; gorging on the amazing food at the TimeOut Market; appreciating the grandeur of the town square; and even climbing up to one of the breathtaking viewpoints high above the city. And be sure to bring your walking shoes for Lisbon, it sure is hilly!

Unlocking the mysteries of Transylvania on a road trip

Contributed by Anda from TravelforaWhile.com

One of the best road trips to take in Eastern Europe is the one through Transylvania in Romania. It has it all, vibrant cities, beautiful nature, citadels, and Medieval towns. The ideal is to spend 5 to 7 days on the road to see as much as possible of this spectacular country.

If you’re flying in, the easiest is to start in Cluj-Napoca. The small airport here has connections to most of Europe and is 3 hours away from London.

Anyway, you can rent a car at the airport, or get a taxi and spend the first night or two in Cluj. This is the unofficial capital of Transylvania province and I’m sure you’ll love it. For such an old city, Cluj-Napoca has a very young and vibrant atmosphere. It hosts many festivals and events throughout the year, and it has a great food scene too.

Make sure to visit at least the beautiful cathedrals in the main piazzas, the Botanic Gardens, Cetatuia Park and to relax with a cocktail in Museum Square.

From Cluj, head south to Sighisoara, with a stop in Turda. Plan about 2,5 hours for the road and reserve a couple more hours to visit the salt mine in Turda. The mine will be a pleasant surprise, just remember to bring something warm even if you visit during the summer.

Sighisoara is a picturesque medieval citadel, still inhabited. Book your accommodation inside the citadel on the hill and explore the towers, the covered staircase, and also the church and the Evangelical Cemetery in the upper citadel. You will need to leave your car in the parking area just below the citadel.

The area around Sighisoara has a few fortified churches worth seeing. On the next day, on your 120 km way to Brasov, you can stray a few kilometers away to Viscri to see one of these fortified churches. This is the traditional Saxon village that the Prince of Wales fell in love with, and where he also bought a house. 

The next stop, Brasov is a medieval city at the gate to Transylvania. Visit the Council Square, the breathtaking Black Church, and the surviving towers here. 

On the next day, head to Sibiu, another Transylvanian jewel less than 150km away from Brasov. The roofs of the Old Town here have “eyes” that make the city quite unique. One other place you should visit in Sibiu is the open-air Astra Museum.

From Sibiu, you can head back to Cluj-Napoca, and visit Alba Iulia Citadel on your way. Alternatively, if you are heading to Bucharest, I suggest taking the highest and most spectacular way available, Transalpina road.

Living a fantasy on the German Fairytale Road

Contributed by Carina of BucketList2Life.com

If you are looking for a less touristy alternative for the German Romantic Road, try the Fairytale Road – especially if you are a lover of Grimms’ Fairy Tales. And who doesn’t love Snow White, Cinderella, and Little Red Riding Hood? The German Fairytale Route leads through central and northern Germany for about 600 kilometres (370 mi). There are more than 60 Brothers Grimm and fairytale-themed stops along the way – you can explore as many of them as you like, but also venture off into your own adventures.

The airport city Frankfurt am Main is the perfect vantage point. Explore its famous skyline before you head off to your first stop, Hanau, the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm. You’ll find a statue of the Grimms on the market square and once a year a Brothers Grimm Festival takes place in this town.

Drive further north to Steinau, where you can find the childhood home of the Brothers Grimm as well as a beautiful castle. Further along the way in Marburg, the student city of the Brothers Grimm, you can walk along the “Grimm-dich-Pfad” a fun trail of fairytale symbols that leads you through the whole city and to the castle, which you can reach by a free elevator.

The student city of Göttingen is the perfect place for a break along the way. Back in the day, the Brothers Grimm were university professors here. There are many hotels, restaurants, and bars. Explore the charming city center with its half-timbered houses and the famous statue of the Gänseliesel (Goose Girl). It’s the perfect vantage point for day trips – check out Sleeping Beauty‘s castle in Sababurg. The charming towns along the Weser river, like Witzenhausen (don’t miss the cherry blossom in spring), Hann. Münden with its over 700 half-timbered houses, and the baroque planned town Bad Karlshafen can be combined in a bike trip if you want to get out of the car for a bit. Additionally, you can retrace the life of another German storyteller, Wilhelm Busch, in this area. Visit the Wilhelm Busch Mill in Ebergötzen also called Max and Moritz Mill after his famous protagonists.

Drive further north through Hameln, the town and the Pied Piper of Hamelin, and Bremen, the town of the Town Musicians of Bremen. The German Fairytale Road ends in the northern German town of Buxtehude – the town of The Hare and the Hedgehog. End your road trip in the nearby airport city Hamburg, where you can enjoy German city life – don’t forget to check out the urban Gängeviertel full of street art.

This is the German road trip for you if you want to see off-the-beaten-path places in Germany, beautiful historic half-timbered old towns, castles, mills, and the countryside with its rivers and rolling hills, but also two of Germany’s most vibrant cities.

European road trip through Spain’s Costa Brava:

Contributed by Ignacio of tangoandrakija.com

Sitges –- Barcelona – Badalona – Blanes – Lloret de Mar – Tossa de Mar – Girona – Cadaques

Total distance 250km

Costa Brava is a beautiful coastal region in Catalonia, Spain characteristic by stunning beaches, crystal clear waters and charming little towns.

If you are around Barcelona any time between spring and autumn there is no excuse to not make this scenic and relaxing road trip.

Assuming you are starting your road trip from Barcelona, you can rent a car there and start your trip going a little bit backwards in order to visit one of the most beautiful coastal towns near Barcelona – Sitges.

Sitges is located some 25 km southwest of Barcelona so, you can reach it in less than half and hour.

Sitges is characteristic by its beautiful sandy beaches but also by its vivid nightlife all year round. It is worldwide known for its Film Festival dedicated to fantasy and horror films that is happening every year in early October. Also, it is known by its Carnival (happening in March) which includes public street parties and costume parades.

If you decide to sleepover in Sitges you can enjoy a night out and continue your road trip the next day.

From Sitges you will drive back towards Barcelona and continue your trip towards north.

Badalona is your next stop and it will take you some 40 minutes to reach it from Sitges.

Badalona is located just outside Barcelona and it has beautiful and not very crowded beach since it is popular mainly among locals. You can have a swim and some delicious tapas at some of the restaurants by the waterfront. Make sure to try some of the local seafood specialties such as fried calamari, marinated seashells or some delicious croquets.

Your next stop is Blanes and it will take you around 50 minutes to get there. Blanes is one of the most popular family summer destinations and it has some incredible beaches.

If you are up for some easy trekking you can walk up the San Juan hill to the castle from where you will have the most amazing panoramic views over Blanes and the coastline.

Blanes is one option for the next sleepover or you can move just around 6 km north to your next stop – Lloret de Mar and make a sleepover there.

Lloret de Mar is one of the most famous summer locations mostly for foreigners even though locals also like to spend their summer vacations there. It’s a typical Spanish coastal town with lots of bars and restaurants, plenty of amazing beaches (both with facilities and wild ones) and a variety of nightlife.

Some 20km further you will reach Tossa de Mar – an ancient fishermen’s village where you can visit the Old Town with ancient houses and medieval alleys and, of course, some of its incredible beaches.

If you had enough of the beaches (if that is even possible) you can visit on of the most beautiful Catalan cities – Girona. If you are a Game of Thrones fan, in Girona you can see some of the filming locations of the popular serial. Stroll down the cobblestone streets of the Old Town, kiss the lioness ass statue for good luck and cross some of the famous Girona bridges.

Sleeping over in Girona is a good idea if you want to get to know the city a little bit better.

Some 75 km from Girona is your next and final destination of this road trip – Cadaques which is said to be “a pearl of Costa Brava”. Here you can visit Salvador Dali’s museum and house where he lived and created his works. Besides that, you have a nice beach and plenty of amazing restaurants to try all the delicious local food.

The Tunnel of Love in Ukraine

Contributed by Francesco from Strayidler.com.

Bonuses are always welcome. Am I wrong? Even if you travel by public transport, you can sometimes find yourself in front of pleasant surprises.

Ever heard of the “Tunnel of Love”, in Klevan, Ukraine? It is an apparent vegetal tunnel, developed on a short railway segment, almost entirely straight. The tunnel was created by the passage of trains and has become a tourist attraction, on which it is possible to walk. But beware: the route is still active, even if few trains pass through it and they travel rather slowly.

Excuse me, Stray: “On a road trip post, you talk about trains!?” Yes. Because, to get there, I took two buses and walked for 20-30 minutes.

But let’s go in order: the first stop was from Kyiv to Rivne, a city of almost two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. 

Crossing the road in front of Rivne station, you can take a minibus (I think they are called marshrutka), to get to Klevan. And from there, as already mentioned, you can walk to the Tunnel of Love.

Which is definitely a remarkable destination, great as an intermediate stop between Kyiv and the city of Lviv. But I’d be lying if I concealed how interesting it was to get there.

For example, trying to communicate, when taking a marshrutka and then sharing the journey with the locals, observing their interaction, obviously without understanding half a word. But you can try to learn reading Cyrillic, if you like.

And then walking through Klevan, a little in the countryside, a little in the city. Children are now used to seeing tourists. But nevertheless remain curious, with their splendid ability to read infinite universes from your clumsy movements.

And then I went back to Rivne to spend the evening. Waiting for the next leg of my itinerary. Boring stop? Far from it. I loved walking the streets of the center, from the square with the theater in Soviet architecture to its churches, to the park decorated with sculptures and people, honoring their well-deserved summer. Lively restaurants, long summer light, minibuses with different numbers overlapping at the main stop. It’s a party, it’s a party on the stage of my memories.

So, I know you expected it! I won’t leave a photo of the Tunnel of Love (they can be found at will); it is of Rivne that I want to leave a fleeting impression.

I miss Ukraine: that is where my last day of summer has remained since 2019.

Exploring Austria – Salzburg to Innsbruck via Hallstatt

Contributed by Elena from the TravelByExample.com

Western regions of Austria are famous for mountainous landscapes, ski resorts and rich historical heritage. Road trip from Salzburg to Innsbruck via Hallstatt is a perfect road trip for those who appreciate a mix of nature and scenery with cities sightseeing.

Start your trip at Salzburg – the city known for its historical heritage and for being the birthplace of Mozart. Spend at least one day exploring Salzburg as there are many sights to see. Read One day in Salzburg for the detailed itinerary and top attractions of the city.

From Salzburg drive to the iconic Austrian village of Hallstatt. It’s an easy 1-hour drive and you can make a stop at either Attersee, Fuschlsee or Wolfgangsee lake along the route. The lakes have clear turquoise water and you can stop for a swim if you’re travelling in summer or for a hike during colder months.

Hallstatt is a picturesque Austrian village located on the shore of a lake and surrounded by mountains. The village is a very popular tourist destination. You will find it less crowded in the evenings and early mornings. So, stay a night there and leave it the following morning before most tourists will arrive.

Short drive from Hallstatt is 5 Fingers Lookout. It has breathtaking views of Hallstatt Lake and the surrounding Alps. Nearby you can also visit the Mammut cave or take a guided tour of Dachstein Giant Ice Cave.

From Hallstatt drive to Innsbruck. It’s about a 3.5 hour drive (if driving within Austria, without going through Germany) and there are few stops you can make on the route. Eisriesenwelt – a natural limestone and ice cave. Krimml Waterfalls – the highest waterfall in Austria. Achen Lake – picturesque alpine lake with turquoise waters. Zillertal – with its beautiful mountain scenery and many hiking trails.

Spend a night in Innsbruck – the capital of Tyrol region – and explore its top attractions the following day. Innsbruck’s old town center – Altstadt – has many historical landmarks and beautiful architecture. Make sure to ride Hungerburgbahn funicular to enjoy the sweeping views of Innsbruck city from the top. Don’t forget to visit the famous Bergisel Ski Jump that is opened for visitors all year round.

Total distance of the road from Salzburg to Innsbruck via Hallstatt (with several stopovers on the way) is 350-400km.

Total duration is 4 days (3 nights at Salzburg, Hallstatt and Innsbruck). Perfect for a long weekend road trip!

From Agrigento to Palermo, Sicily, Italy

Contributed by Lisa from FollowingtheRiviera.com

The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, road trips, and day trips in Sicily are vast and varied. The drive from Agrigento to Palermo can be interesting, or monotonous, depending on the route. According to Google Maps, the quickest time is approximately 2 hours, which will most likely include the highways (autostrada). Choose this route, but don’t be surprised if there’s not much to write home about. However, take a longer, yet more scenic route, and there’ll be memories, and photos, to look back on for years.

Starting at Agrigento, most visitors come here for one thing: to visit the Valley of the Kings (Valle dei Templi). The archaeological site’s fascinating, but gets busy quickly and can be difficult to enjoy beneath the blazing Sicilian sun. Saying that, arrive early to beat the crowds and the heat.

Around 25 minutes from the Valley of the Kings are the striking Scala dei Turchi. Translated as ‘Turkish stairs’, this white sedimentary rocky cliff is popular with locals and visitors. If there’s time to spare, head to the beach and enjoy the views and warm waters.

Another interesting city to pass by is Mazara del Vallo. It’s one of the southernmost cities in Italy, with the tip of Tunisia just across the Mediterranean Sea. Once ruled by Arab, Greeks, Romans and Byzantines, its unique influences are reflected in the architecture and food. While here, book a table at La Bettola and be sure to try the traditional fish couscous.

Torre Bonera Green Resort is a great choice for staying near Mazara del Vallo. It’s around a 20-minute drive, but the boutique-style hotel makes a relaxing getaway in the Sicilian countryside.

To see a surreal site with a tragic backstory on this side of Sicily, consider stopping by Gibellina. A devastating earthquake in 1968 completely destroyed the entire town, and most of its residents. Today, the former town of Gibellina is an open-air museum. Completely covered in concrete, aside from the streets that were once there, it’s a place like no other in Sicily. It goes without saying that being respectful in Gibellina is a given. Don’t follow the lead of some visitors, who climbed on top of the concrete and began taking selfies.  

Two-day road trip from Agrigento to Palermo: Distance in total: 299km / 4hrs 

Chasing the Midnight Sun

Where: Northern Norway, Finland

Start / Finish: Tromsø, Norway

Distance: 2,276km / 1,414 miles

Duration: Between 5 and 8 days

The Norwegian city of Tromsø is the gateway to the Arctic. 350km north of the Arctic Circle, and the departure point for many polar expeditions, it’s a modern city with a vibrant arts and culture scene, and the surrounding mountains and islands draw outdoor lovers.

The drive to Kautokeino weaves past stunning coastal mountains, before turning inland and crossing the border into Finnish Lapland, before crossing back to Norway. Look for reindeer herding structures, including wooden corrals used in the seasonal round-up, and animals grazing by the roadside.

Kautokeino and Karasjok are the cultural centres of northern Sápmi, the region traditionally inhabited by the Sámi, and give an insight into the life of reindeer herders. The route continues northeast, tracing the Finnish border for a while, to Tana Bru, then eastward onto the Varanger peninsula.

Vardø is the easternmost town in Norway, located further east than Istanbul. It’s also notable for street art on many of the old buildings. Varanger is a birdwatcher’s paradise, and there’s a chance of spotting Arctic foxes and hares.

Returning westward, the route winds across the tundra of the Finmarksvidda, before going north to Honningsvåg, the northernmost town in Norway. The ideal base to visit Nordkapp, it can be busy with cruise passengers, but go at midnight, especially in May and August, to be treated to incredible sunset skies, and have the place mostly to yourself.

Next stop is Hammerfest, a historic town with a great museum, with the grand name of The Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society. Join as a member for exclusive stickers and pins only available to the select few that have made the journey north.

From Hammerfest turn south, over the Finmarksvidda to Alta, where more than 6,000 petroglyphs, or rock carvings, dating between 4200BCE and 500 BCE, are protected as a UNESCO world heritage site. The route heads back towards Tromsø along the coast, with sensational views across the fjord to the striking Lyngen Alps.

The route starts in Tromsø, however Alta, Hammerfest, and Vadsø are all served by the Hurtigruten coastal ferry and have airports, so could be alternative departure points.

Midnight sun occurs in Finnmark between the second week of May and the end of September. Around the solstice, the sun will circle high in the sky, but at the beginning and end of the period, you can watch the sun set on the northern horizon, appear to touch the Arctic Ocean, then rise again.

Don’t miss: Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø; Sami Centre for Contemporary Art, Karasjok; Steilneset Memorial, Vardø; views from the Nordkapp plateau, near Honningsvåg; The Royal and Ancient Society of Polar Bears, Hammerfest; Alta petroglyphs.

Photo Journal: Stormbound in Skudeneshavn, Norway

https://thesevagabondshoes.org/2018/10/27/photo-journal-stormbound-in-skudeneshavn-norway/

Europe road trip – Montenegro

Shared by Cassie from cassiethehag.com.

There’s nothing like a road trip through Montenegro to see the best Europe has to offer. Combining charming old towns, excellent cultural attractions, and truly next-level mountain scenery, there is every chance of making unforgettable memories here.

It’s easiest to begin and end your road trip in historical Kotor or capital city Podgorica. Rent a car with a reputable company and drop it off at either city once you’ve finished your trip. There are a few different routes to choose from, whether you want to stick to the coastal roads, trace the footsteps of historical figures through the many Montenegrin old towns, or feel inspired to take on the mountains. The below recommendations combine a mix of all three and will take around seven days to complete. 

Beginning in Podgorica, enjoy nearby Lake Skadar National Park. Don’t miss the famous ‘bend lake’ viewpoint, marked on google maps as the Crnojevic River lookout point. On day two, head to Durmitor National Park. You won’t want to rush your time here – from the 2423m high Bobotuv Kok mountain to the stunning glacier lake Crno Jezero (‘Black Lake’), the scenery is wonderful. Durdevica Tara Bridge and Tara Canyon are definitely worth a stop. There are lots of outdoor activities here, including rafting below or ziplining above the canyon, which is actually the largest canyon in Europe.

Finally, spend more time relaxing and enjoying historical architecture by visiting Kotor, Sveti Stefan, and Budva. These are popular beach destinations in the Summer but are worth visiting for the cultural attractions at any time of year. A side trip from Kotor to Lovcen National Park is also worth it for the fantastic Mausoleum of Petar Njegos, views over Kotor… and the hair-raising cliffside road of 25 hairpin bends. Drive carefully in Montenegro – you’ll be glad you did.

Provence Road Trip

Written by Lannie from Lanniesfoodandtravel.com.

A road trip through Provence in the south of France is a combination of idyllic and surreal.  Of course, there are villages with extensive lavender fields and cypress trees.  But there’s so much more!  Art, Roman history, and unmatched natural beauty. Although it was a little confusing to me at first, Provence is not a specific village and refers to the whole region.

The road trip begins in Avignon, Provence’s main city – a 6.5-hour drive south from Paris or 2.5-hours from Lyon. 5 days would be perfect for this road trip, which can be broken up into different sections. 

• Luberon – less than 1 hour west of Avignon, Luberon is a Natural Regional Park which encompasses forests, scrublands, vineyards, and rocky areas.  The main commune of Gordes, sits atop a giant calcareous rock, reminiscent of Minas Tirith from LOTR!  A hidden gem is Roussillon, tinted orange due to the ochre deposits in the clay.  Talk a walk in the Ochre Path to visit an old ochre quarry.  Don’t miss Sénanque Abbey, a picturesque Cistercian abbey from 1148, known for their lavender fields (blooms in July and August).
• Saint Remy de Provence – located 45 minutes southwest from Luberon.  Mostly known for the Saint-Paul Asylum, where Van Gogh spent one year between 1889 – 1890.  Also, visit the ancient and wealthy Roman city of Glanum, founded in the 6^th century BC but abandoned in 260 AD.  If art is your thing, I’d suggest a trip 15 minutes to south to visit Carrières de Lumières (The Quarries of Light) – a digital art installation nestled inside a giant limestone quarry.
• Continue on your journey to Arles, only 30 minutes away. Van Gogh spent 1888 -1889 in Arles, prolifically painting his most famous works, and (sadly) where he cut off his ear.  The Van Gogh self-guided walking tour is incredible and takes you to the places behind the paintings. Outside of Van Gogh, the Arles Amphitheatre is the main landmark in town – built in 90 AD and previously held up to 20,000 excited, Roman fans of chariot races and bloody gladiator fights.  In its long history, it housed an entire town with over 200 houses inside!  If you’re in Arles on Wednesdays and Saturdays, check out the open-air markets, with fresh produce and spices galore.

If you want to continue south on your Provence road trip, head to the seaside city of Marseilles – famous for the Chateau D’If prison, which housed the fictional Count of Monte Cristo. Or take a boat trip to the Calanques National Park for stunning emerald bays set against towering limestone cliffs.

If you’re heading back up to Avignon, detour to Nimes to the Pont du Gard roman aqueduct – the highest and best preserved Roman aqueduct bridge!  It’s absolutely stunning!

The Best Road Trips In Europe – Tuscany!

Contributed by John from johnrieber.com

Driving through Italy’s famed Tuscany wine region is not only easy but spectacularly beautiful as well. The trip begins when you fly into Florence, either into their smaller airport or a larger one nearby in the city of Pisa – which allows you to get a picture of the leaning tower while there.

Rental cars are easy to secure from either location, and you can use Florence as a home base for your adventures because everything is so close.  

For example, the trip from Florence to the medieval town of Siena is just over a one hour drive of 53 miles, taking the RA3 highway.

Siena is known for its medieval brick buildings. There’s a fan-shaped central square known as the Piazza del Campo, which is the site of the Palazzo Pubblico, their gothic town hall.

There is plentiful parking on the outskirts of the ancient part of town.

One of the joys of driving in Tuscany is that there is so much to see within an hour’s drive of Florence…and by taking smaller roads you will discover more of the region’s medieval villages, such as San Gimignano, which is only 41 miles from Florence.

“San G” is known as the “town of fine towers”, as the walled medieval village is home to a dozen walled towers, which look like a miniature version of Manhattan’s skyline.  These were originally built to provide protection for local families from marauding enemies.

If you want a taste of the town’s past, you can stay in one of the small hotels, which offer up a unique style that celebrates their history.

From there, you can drive to the Castello di Verrazzano in only 45 minutes.  This is a classic Tuscan winery.  In fact, the Verrazzano bridge in New York City, connecting Brooklyn to Staten Island, has a brick that came from this estate. 

The winery offers tastings and tours, and lunches are also served on site.  The ornate estate sits high on a hill and offers up incredible views of the surrounding vineyards as well.

Everything is easy to navigate in this part of the country.  To get from San Gimignano to the winery, you just take the RA3 to the SP94 and then the SP92 and you are there.

Finally, the beautiful town of Cortona is just 61 miles from Florence, easy to get to using the A1 highway until you get to the SR-71 for the remainder of the trip.

Cortona has the Etruscan Academy Museum, which has an Archaeological Park with ancient city fortifications and examples of Roman roads as well.

Driving through this part of Italy will take you back in time for some delicious adventures.

The Best Road Trips In Europe – Serbia by bike

Contributed by Lauren from theplanetedit.com

Serbia is a fantastic place for a road trip, and what better way to hit the road than by bicycle? The world is at its best when there’s nothing between it and you, and this rings particularly true for Serbia. The warm Serbian breeze, the fantastic scenery of the Djerdap National Park and the character of the local towns are best experienced on two wheels.

The EuroVelo 6 bicycle route spans from France to Romania, traversing 10 countries across the European continent. The section that runs through Serbia, though, is one of the best. The Serbian EuroVelo 6 follows the Danube River for over 665km from the Croatian border near Backa Palanka to the Bulgarian border near Negotin, hitting highlights such as Novi Sad, Belgrade, Golubac and the Djerdap National Park on the way.

Between the cities and major towns, the EuroVelo 6 bike path will take you along gorgeous mountain roads, through rolling countryside and along the Danube River, where you might spot wild otters playing along the banks.

The absolute highlight of your Serbian road trip, though, will be when you cycle through the Djerdap National Park. The scenery is astonishing and you’ll be awestruck by the gorges and river.

Another highlight of a road trip through Serbia is the warm hospitality of the local people. After a long day of cycling, a lovely campsite is always much looked forward to. With that being said, the following campsites are excellent for bicycle tourists and can be found along the Serbian EuroVelo 6:

My Memento Rooms and Camping: Situated just 20km east of Novi Sad near a town called Cortanovci, this campground is situated in a lovely garden, with flowers and fruit trees.

Camp & Guesthouse for Cyclists & Adventurers “Urban Guerrilla”: Situated in the lovely town of Negotin, this campground is one of the most talked-about on the cycle trail in Serbia. The host is a lovely man named Bojan who goes above and beyond to make you feel at home, and is a fountain of knowledge on cycling in the area.

Camping Asin: Camping Asin is run by a wonderful lady called Milena. She has an infectious, positive energy and kindly welcomes guests with a cold, homemade juice and fresh watermelon.

The EuroVelo 6 bike path is well sign-posted and easy to follow, so you’ll be able to relax as you cycle. Completing this road trip through Serbia should take about 2 weeks for a competent cyclist.

Will you be adding any of these Epic European Road Trips to your bucket list? Let me know your European road trip favourite in the comments below.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

The Ring of Kerry is a trio of words that evoke great memories in all that have followed its path. At 179 km or 111 miles it’s easily managed in a day. But not without sacrifices. Lonely Planet advises that you spend 4 days on this particular route, soaking up the atmosphere of its towns and views. However dedicating that length of time to just one part, of one county in Ireland, is not usually within the realms of all our possibilities. You may ask is the Ring of Kerry worth it then? It certainly is. If you only have one day for your Ring of Kerry Itinerary though, then you must focus on what you can do.

Firstly, you will need to find a base town before your drive and all roads really do lead to Killarney in this regard. It’s not your only option but its certainly the best. In its own regard its worthy of a few days, so arriving in good time will give you an opportunity to explore this fantastic town.

Staycations are very much on the cards for the summer of 2021 in Ireland. With a road map that sees a return of hospitality, attractions and tourist services from early June, now is the time to start planning your summer trips. Outdoor services and indoor heritage sites have already resumed and hotels will follow from 2nd June. From 7th June bars and restaurants will reopen with outdoor seating. Let’s hope the weather is forgiving this year. Remember to check ahead as not all businesses will open as normal, and pre-booking may be required. If you are short on inspiration these 21 suggestions on how to staycation Ireland in ’21 will surely be of help. Otherwise keep reading on for one of Ireland’s best holiday destinations.

Killarney

Killarney is the most famed of Ireland’s tourist towns. She sits on the banks of Lough Leane and beneath the watchful eye of Ireland’s biggest mountain range the Macgillycuddy Reeks. Surrounding the town is the Killarney National Park, featuring some of Ireland’s best scenery. The towns population of 15,000 dramatically swells for much of the year in account of tourism. Killarney can be reached by train from Cork and Dublin Heuston Station (timetables here), but this area is best travelled by car as all road trips are. You can also of course book a bus tour, with Get Your Guide a reliable resource for them.

Killarney is 300 kilometres or around 190 miles from Dublin. It’s a relatively swift drive as far as Limerick but that last 100 kilometres is through some primary roads that are prone to tailbacks. This is especially true of the town of Adare, but it’s also the kind of place you’ll be happy to drive slow or even stop to appreciate. It’s surely one of Ireland’s prettiest towns, with its rows of thatched cottages that grace its Main Street.

The drive should take you in the region of 4 hours from Dublin. Killarney’s fame as a tourist town becomes quickly apparent as you approach, it is clearly the biggest industry and every second house it seems operates as a B&B.

Finding a hotel in Killarney

Killarney has one of the highest concentrations of 5 star hotels in the world per capita. If your budget doesn’t stretch there, accommodations range from hotels to B&B’s to holiday homes. I use Booking.com for all my reservations.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Our choice this time was the Killarney Randles Hotel. It was slightly outside of the town centre but within easy walking distance. The building, the interior, and the bedrooms were all fantastic. The building is a 1906 rectory before been converted to a manor hotel and is classical in style, completely in keeping but maintained to a very high standard. As this was high season rooms were at a premium and we paid €200. But the high standard certainly justified it.

Exploring Killarney Town

After settling in we decided to give our legs a good stretch and walk into the town. It was less than five minutes to the amusingly named central square The Hahah. This is where one can find a jaunting car, the traditional horse-drawn carriages that are a trademark of Killarney. The drivers are known here as jarveys, and a variety of tours into the Killarney National Park are available. The most alluring of these is probably the tour through the Gap of Dunloe, and by boat back to Ross Castle, but only if you have ample time.

The town centre is attractive, colourful and bustling with people. American accents in particular filled the air, so many coming to find their lost heritage. The walk took us past St Marys Church of Ireland, which was basking in the sunlight. We stopped into the Underground Cafe for a few cakes on our stroll around. We can never help ourselves when away.

Jaunting Cars

Returning to the Hahah we indulged in that most Killarney of things, a tour on a jaunting car. We picked the tour to Ross Castle: it cost €15, and our jarveys name was John. He was a friendly fella, and give us a bit of info about the town as we passed by St Marys Cathedral and into Killarney National Park. First impressions of the park were beautiful all luscious and green and vast. The horse took us down through a marked road and after fifteen minutes we arrived at Ross Castle.

Ross Castle

The castle has a magnificent location on Lough Leane, and the waters glistened in the afternoon sun. Ducks swam up to the rocky shore and this peaceful inlet on the lake provides a small harbour. I guess this motivated the building of the castle in the 15th century by the O’ Donoghue’s, a ruling clan at the time. Who could blame them. Safe and idyllic. The castle is a tower keep, strategically built to use the water as an extra defence. The castle had a legend attached to it, that it couldn’t be sacked unless it was by water, which no ship at the time could do, due to the shallow water of the lake.

Enter Oliver Cromwell and his army, who after a land siege, built special ships in Kinsale. The sight of the ships spooked the castle dwellers and it soon fell. We didn’t really have time to visit the castle, as our man John the Jarvey was waiting on us, so we just strolled around the grounds for a while, in awe of the beauty of the lake and the setting. It’s an unmissable sight on your Ring of Kerry itinerary.

Gap of Dunloe

After returning to the to the town with our jaunting car, we went back to the hotel and to our more conventional car. It was a 20 minute drive around to the Gap of Dunloe. The gap was formed by glacial flows between the McGillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain and takes its name from the river Loe which now flows through it.

The start of the gap is noted as Kate Kearney’s Cottage, where bikes can be rented or refreshments got. The gap then winds through the valley for 11km. The road is particularly narrow and its a good drive past a series of lakes with steep sides on the glacial valley. Don’t expect to meet many other cars but there are quite a few horses and bikes using the route. It is recommended not to use a car, but if you are comfortable with narrow single lane country roads then its fine. Highlights along the way include the photogenic wishing bridge and the fine views into the Black Valley at the Head of the Gap.

Killarney night life

With 350 kilometres spent at the wheel we gave the car a rest for the evening. It was a glorious evening so we wandered into the town. After traversing up and down the streets a few times looking for somewhere to eat we finally settled on The Porterhouse, where some live music provided a nice background to our dinner of ribs and lamb shank. The music ended somewhat prematurely so after our meal we found Scruffy’s pub, which was just the tonic. Several pints and numerous folk songs later we staggered back to the hotel, for a nightcap of cocktails on the hotel terrace.

Driving the Ring of Kerry

We rose early on the second day of our trip in anticipation of a long day and had a brilliant breakfast to set us on our way. This was our Ring of Kerry one day itinerary. Below is the typical Ring of Kerry drive map.

It was a blistering warm day with clear blue skies. Perfect road-trip weather. We choose to do the Ring of Kerry clockwise as it suited our plan to travel to Dingle and it’s Slea Head Drive. It’s also the opposite direction of Ring of Kerry tour buses and so you have the added advantage of not getting stuck behind. However you will meet them head on and very possibly on some narrow roads. This is an important consideration for anyone attempting this drive. If you aren’t comfortable driving in the British isles I would suggest to travel counter-clockwise.

Will this be your first trip to Ireland? If so please let me allay your fears on driving here with my essential driving tips in Ireland.

Muckross Abbey

Leaving the hotel Beata and I made a quick visit to Muckross Abbey, a 15th century Franciscan Abbey. It’s a little walk from the car park and the abbey is completely free to enter. It’s in ruins but you can take the stairs up to the upper level. Highlights include the vaulted cloister around a yew tree, that is said to be as old as the abbey. A rundown graveyard surrounds the church, which amazingly is still used to this day. Jaunting cars run from here to Muckross House.

Muckross House

The historical Muckross House which is located within the Killarney National Park is only a fifteen minute drive from Killarney. Parking up we limited our visit to a stroll in the gardens and around the house. The grounds border Muckross Lake and as with any of the Killarney Lakes the views are alluring.

The house was built in the 1830’s on the site of earlier houses for the Herbert family, and apparently this is a scaled back version of the original plans. Makes you wonder. It’s a magnificent stone mansion. The gardens which compliment the house were added over the next century. There is a host of activities from tours of the period furnished house which cost €9, to a visit to the traditional farm, as well as various craft demonstrations. We kept our visit limited.

Torc Waterfall

The Ring of Kerry makes an assent above the lakes and before long we had arrived at our next stop, 3.5km away. Torc Waterfall is fed by the Owengarriff River from Torc Mountain above. It’s about 25 metres in height and while not that impressive it’s worth the short five-minute stroll from the car park. There is a viewing deck to stand and practice your slow shutter speed skills. A number of more challenging walks take you alongside the waterfall for an impressive array of views over the lakes.

Ladies View

The road steadily increases in altitude with intermittent flashes of blue through the trees from the lakes below. Before long it open up to present a viewing point. This viewing point has become known as Ladies View. This refers to the ladies-in-waiting of Queen Victoria, whom expressed delight at the sights when visiting here in 1861. We took a ramble out to the rocks which present the best perspective, through the valley floor and over the Killarney lakes. Photos don’t do it justice, but its a visual treat. It had been over an hour since my last coffee, so the conveniently located Ladies View Industries, a cafe and tourist shop, helped me refuel.

The ascent in the Ring of Kerry continued and we made an unscheduled stop at Looscaunagh lake. Somehow this little lake seemed more beautiful to us than in the ones in the Killarney floor below. It was our favourite of all the Ring of Kerry stops.

Finally the road reached Molls Gap which opens up into spectacular views of the valley beyond. From here the route gradually declines to sea level. The Killarney to Molls Gap section of the Ring, is surely its most picturesque. We drove on through the towns of Kenmare and Sneem without stopping, though these towns are good overnight locations with top hotels. Little inlets from the sea break the often wooded scenery along this stretch none more picturesque than the one I featured below.

Staigue Fort

We only made one stop along this section before we reached the extreme west coast. It is reached via the narrowest of lanes which is four kilometres long. Thankfully we didn’t meet anyone else on our way there, I would envisage it being a big problem. Staigue Fort is one of the largest stone forts in Ireland. It was constructed in the early centuries AD.

Ringforts were an early defensive fortification with large walls to protect those who live inside. The walls here were up to six metres high and four metres thick. These can be climbed by a succession of stairs built into the interior. It’s a nice Celtic structure and is one of a number of forts along the route.

The most westerly part of the Ring of Kerry is also the one with the most distractions. Firstly it’s the springboard to the Skellig islands, including that one that was sold so well in those Disney movie. There is also Valentia Island, the location of the Kerry cliffs and more of the wild views that Kerry is so famous for.

Skellig Michael

If you have additional days on the Ring of Kerry, you might look to spend a night on its west coast and the Skellig ring. Skellig Michael is one of only three Irish UNESCO World Heritage Sights, and is accessed via boat. It lies 11.6 km off the coast and atop this craggy rock, a monastic settlement dating from 588 AD is located. Known for its characteristic beehive huts, the wonder lies in how monks made this their home for 600 years. Is it any wonder so did Luke Skywalker.

Only 180 people per day are allowed to travel to the Skelligs. Boat tours run from the town of Portmagee near Valencia Island. You are at the mercy of the sea, and this being Ireland’s Atlantic coast, the weather is very unforgiving. But if luck is on your side this is one of the highlights of the Ring of Kerry. A number of companies run the trips and a complete list can be found skelligmichael.com.

Derrynane

Derrynane is a town famed as the home of Irish statesman Daniel O’Connell. His birthplace Derrynane House can be visited with many relics from his life on show. We skipped the house and drove down to Derrynane beach, which is one of the most beautiful beaches in Kerry if not Ireland. Returning to the ring road up above you are indulged by scintillating vistas of the beach. Somehow I always prefer to view a beach from far as I’m not a sand between my toes kind of guy. I guess it’s also the contrast between the sand, the sea and the general greenness.

Adventures in food on our Ring of Kerry Itinerary

We were now starving so we decided to eat in the next town that our paths crossed. This happened to be Waterville. Watervilles fame is that one Charlie Chaplin frequented the place many times on his holidays. If this seaside town was good enough for Charlie it was good enough for us. Alas we couldn’t find anywhere open so we plundered on.

It was twenty minutes to Cahirciveen and by that time a hole the side of a moon crater had grown in our tummys. We passed the turn to Valentia island and adventures missed, but a man generally follows his impulses. Food. We picked the first restaurant we found in Cahirciveen, Camos which was thankfully just what we needed. We settled on paninis and big coffees, which were a delight.

Cahirciveen

Just outside the town of Cahirciveen a bridge crosses the estuary to a headland. Standing guard at the entrance to the bridge is the impressive looking Old Barracks. A British army barracks constructed in 1875 to protect the newly laid telegraph cable between Britain and America, it is fabled that it was built to specifications for a building in India, as the plans got mixed up in haste. It is a little out of place. It now hosts a heritage museum for the surrounding area.

The bridge takes us to the ruins of Ballycarberry Castle, and to a couple of more stone ringforts. The bigger of these is the Cahergall stone fort, which was probably occupied up until 1000 years ago, and stood for up to 500 years. The lower walls of an interior building are still intact. The walls can be still scaled on this one too. Keep an eye out for the horseflies, as Beata was climbing the walls she became the victim of one. Its ok though; she survived!

Adjacent to this area is the Leacanabuaile Stone Fort. this one is grassier and with a bigger collection of dwellings inside. Its stone walls are three metres thick. Its worth visiting both as they are drastically different to each other.

Falling victim to weather on our Ring of Kerry itinerary

The biggest curse of the West of Ireland, is its a part of the world where time is best spent exploring the wilds of its countryside. And for that you need reasonable weather. And visibility. A thick cloud had started to form since we left our lunch and suddenly it rolled in over the hills until they appeared no more. It was beautiful but it detracted for our experience. It had been 27 degrees earlier in the day (that’s warm in Ireland) but the cloud brought a chill with it. We also lost all views while passing the MacGillycuddy Reeks and the relative might of Carrauntoohill, Ireland’s highest peak.

Rossbeigh Beach

Our planned route had one more stop on it on the Ring of Kerry, to take the R564 road down to the beach at Rossbeigh. The narrow road presents astonishing views over the elongated beach…allegedly. We saw a few metres in front of us, which isn’t the best when navigating a sharp bended country road with steep drops. When we arrived at the beach all the sunbathers were deserting it in their droves so we sadly deserted with them.

The loss of weather and the exodus of beach goers unfortunately brought to light one problem of the Ring of Kerry. Traffic. Even though we had seen much of what we had hoped for, the route near days end, passing through Killorglin and on to Killarney, is one often fraught with traffic jams. It’s something to bear in mind as you take on this most worthy of roads.

From here you can choose to return to Killarney, return to Dublin via Tralee, or continue your exploration of the Wild Atlantic Way with Dingle and the Dingle Peninsula.

If you enjoyed this Ring of Kerry Itinerary, it would be wonderful if you could pin, comment, or repost.

It probably goes without saying that much of 2021 will be spent in search of outdoor pursuits. So it’s with that in mind that we have put together this list for you, to inspire your summer.

Tourism Industries

If the tourism industry is to recover from this catastrophic shock, we must first help regain the confidence of our local markets. Coming from Ireland where 6% of our GDP comes from Tourism, that’s a major shortfall in our economy. Needless to say, it’s not just the Irish economy, the whole world right now is suffering.

A staycation doesn’t need to mean a week in a local resort or tourist centre. It can be as simple as staying at home and visiting some local attractions. Coming up are my top suggestions and the best places for a staycation.

Best staycation Ireland ideas with kids

Naturally, with kids in tow, you are going to have to think of all the variables. Of course, the ideal trip will be days on the beach and good dining options at night, with some adventure thrown in for good measure. However, Ireland isn’t Spain or Portugal and isn’t likely to play ball all the time (most of the time). So you need a staycation destination that’s going to give you options for those rainy and cold days, or when those inconvenient storms roll in. As a father of an eleven-year old, I can relate to the frustrations of summer in Ireland. These are my best suggestions for all-weather family vacations in Ireland.

A Cycling holiday on one of Ireland greenways

Ireland has been slowly adding to its cycling greenways (a little too slowly for some), but there are now about ten available in different parts of the country. They vary greatly in length but are the perfect outdoor activity for families. Most utilise now-defunct sections of the complex Irish rail network which once covered the island. As rail travel went into decline, many sections were left to nature. They are now slowly being restored and provide a great vantage point of the Irish countryside. The other advantage is the safety of taking the kids on a cycle route that is free of traffic and other dangers.

Notable greenways include those on the Royal and Grand Canal which run from Dublin down through Ireland’s midlands, the Waterford Greenway which travels from Waterford to Dungarvan, the Boyne valley greenway, and the scenic Great Western Greenway, which passes the astonishing Clew Bay on its way to Achill Island. For more, this article by aroundireland.ie on Ireland’s best greenways trails, is a good resource.

River cruise on the Shannon

From greenways to waterways, it’s possible that there’s no better time to consider a river cruise. There’s the natural social distancing of the waterways. River cruising requires no licenses or experience of having operated a boat before. The barges are slow-moving and safe, making them perfect for captains and navigators of all ages. Better still the family dog can even be taken along.

The main locations for boat rentals are Carrick on Shannon and Banagher. River cruises generally operate on a one or two-week basis, which gives plenty of time to see much of the Shannon, from Lough Erne in Fermanagh and down as far as Lough Derg in County Clare. Between, the towns of Carrick on Shannon and Athlone are popular stopping-off points, as well as the attractions at Clonmacnoise, Lough Key Forest Park, and Birr Castle. The Shannon is also the perfect river for a wide variety of water sports guaranteed to keep everyone entertained. Along the way is Baysports in Hudson Bay too, Ireland’s largest outdoor inflatable water park.

Stay at an all inclusive Family Resort

There are countless family friendly hotel resorts around Ireland offering excellent packages, which means you barely need to leave the confines of the hotel. Most offer swimming pools and walks, with many offering activities such as archery, mini-golf, pony riding, go-karting, tennis courts, football pitches and so much more. Coastal hotels near Sligo and Donegal also offer surfing lessons during the summer. The most popular are CastleMartyr, Kellys Resort, and Delphi Adventure Resort, but you’ll find an excellent list in this Irish Independent article.

Spend a week in Center Parcs Longford Forest

Of course, none of the hotels above can compete with Center Parcs in terms of activities. Its 466 lodges will be very popular during the summer of 2021, and with hundreds of indoor and outdoor activities available, no one will ever be bored. There’s a spa and lots of restaurants catering for the adults, so they can be included in that too. Book now at Center Parcs.

Visit some of Ireland’s best family attractions

Of course, not all of Ireland’s attractions are contained within the grounds of hotels. Across the country, you’ll find zoos, wildlife parks, amusement parks, activity centres, waterparks, ziplining or whatever takes your fancy. Spend a day in Tayto Park, Ireland’s largest amusement park. Learn surfing at Lahinch in Clare. Conquer your fears on the high ropes at Zipit. Say arrrr at the Pirates Adventure Park in Westport House. Learn kayaking or canoeing in Longford, Carlow, Waterford, or in the Carlingford Adventure Centre. Ski without snow at Kilternan in Dublin, or take to the water slides in Tramore, Blanchardstown, Drogheda, Salthill, Athlone, or Bundoran.

Go camping or glamping

Can’t face the prospect of another night looking at four walls? Then why not go camping or glamping. With summer coming you will have a chance to soak up the great outdoors, get some fresh air, have a cheap staycation, and still respect your own personal self-isolation rules. There are numerous camping and glamping Ireland sites to be found in the most idyllic of locations. Looking for one near you? Have a read of this great guide to glamping sites in Ireland from The Irish Road Trip. Alternatively, you can try a bit of wild camping. And mind the bull.

Best staycation Ireland ideas for adults

Take a spa break in one of Ireland’s hotels.

After all, that time cooped up at home may be the last thing you will want is to be cooped up in a hotel. But it might be just the tonic. Throw in the prospect of a spa, a nice comfy king bed, the 18 hole golf courses, amazing food, together with all the social and interesting activities that the best hotels in Ireland have on offer.

Sick and tired of looking at your kitchen, but don’t fancy an evening in a restaurant? The call room service and dine in the luxury of your room. Personally, I’ve always balked at the price of Ireland’s castle hotels, but with the loss of foreign visitors, their prices have become within reach. Now might be the time to knock on the door of Dromoland Castle or Ashford Castle. Alternatively, why not take a look at the exclusive resorts near you.

City breaks

Perhaps you’ve spent all year in your own little rural corner of the country, and can’t wait to get back to the vibrance of the city. The good news is some of the best parts of those cities will be reopening very soon (forgetting the pubs for a minute). From May 10th galleries, cultural attractions and museums are open. Time to expand that knowledge. From May 17th, all retail will be reopened, so maybe a week of retail therapy is what is needed. Of course, hotels will follow from early June, and pubs and restaurants will be serving outdoors from the 7th, so the set will be complete for a great weekend or week away.

Dublin

Like it or hate it, Dublin is not short of a few things to do. From a huge selection of museums and galleries, to city centre tourist attractions such as St Patrick’s Cathedral, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin Castle, the Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainham Gaol and the GPO, it’s a great place to get in touch with Irish history. That’s without mentioning the incredible variety in its countless restaurants and bars. Personally, I prefer exploring its quaint villages such as Dalkey and Howth. For more on what I love about Dublin, see the section on being a tourist in your own backyard below.

Galway

We all know Galway. Though it won’t be the same this year without the roar of spectators at the Galway races, it’s still a super fun city. Often coined as the gateway to the west, Galway the is perfect base for exploring Mayo, Clare, or Galway counties too, before returning to sample its evening delights. Salthill is a charming old seaside scene that’s great to stay in. But of course, if you want more of the city, stay closer to the centre and explore its cathedral, Latin quarter and great craft industries.

Belfast

Belfast is a completely different proposition to Dublin and Galway. The 20th century had the greatest impact on its history, with the Titanic and The Troubles leaving a huge impression on life there. Both form two of its most visited places now, via a walking tour of the Titanic exhibition or via a Black Taxi tour of its peace walls and political murals. Belfast’s pubs are already open now and life is moving faster towards normal there, due to their faster vaccination policy. Perhaps now’s the time to consider Belfast.

The Best Road trips in Ireland

Of course, road trips are good at any time but it might just be the perfect idea for a staycation now. Pack up a lunch for that remote picnic and let the road take you and your family in its direction. You don’t even need a destination, just get onto a secondary road, and let it surprise you. Of course, every country has its famed road trips and maybe you feel like finally tackling that one on your bucket list that you haven’t.

Sometimes the road trip that you come up with yourself is often better than the waymarked route. The road less travelled brings far greater reward. Personally, I prefer to get lost in the gentle mountains of Wicklow, my happy place just a short distance from Dublin. Wherever yours is, stay safe in these times.

Wild Atlantic Way

The Biggie. 2500 kilometres along the whole Atlantic Coast of Ireland from Cork to Donegal. Top of the Irish bucket list. It’s questionable if you would want to do it all in one go, and it’s something you really need the time for. But if it’s a commodity you have, then the longest marked coastal drive in the world might just be the best travel memory you can make this year. All along the route, there are excellent towns to spend the night in Kinsale, Kenmare, Dingle, Tralee, Kilkee, Lahinch, Galway, Clifden, Westport, Sligo, and Bundoran. You really are spoiled for choice. That’s before I mention the west coast sights of Slieve League, Achill, Connemara, The Burren, Cliffs of Moher, and Skellig Michael; I could go on and on. Give it a minimum of two weeks, but ideally three to visit the full Wild Atlantic Way.

Donegal

What most tend to do of course is split the Wild Atlantic Way into sections and explore county by county. Your own author included. Donegal, Ireland’s fourth-largest county and one of its wildest is a perfect one to start it. From the windswept Malin Head (Ireland’s most northerly point) down through the Glenveagh National Park, and to the huge sea cliffs at Slieve League, it really lives up to that billing. Offshore Tory Island is a unique self-imposed kingdom, which till recently was ruled by a king. The Atlantic waters here are Ireland’s surfing capital, with the town of Bundoran an advised base for this. With such a huge coastline Donegal has excellent beaches, and Ballymastocker bay is one of the world’s finest. In Harvey’s Point and Lough Eske Castle, Donegal has some of the countries best hotels too.

Mayo

While Mayo is often overlooked as a county where only Stags and Hens end up for one last wild weekend, it’s so much more than that. It is another large county with a great sprinkling of interesting places in it. In the north, there’s the Dun Briste stack, one of Mother Nature’s finest pieces of sculpting in Ireland. Nearby are the Ceide Fields, the oldest known system of fields in the world. Trust Ireland to have the oldest fields. Just off the coast is the island of Achill, where you must see Keem Bay, one of the world’s finest beaches. Further south is Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s holy mountain, views of Clew Bay, and the wild valley of Doolough. It’s a county made for a road trip.

Connemara

With much of its main roads following the Wild Atlantic way, it should come as little surprise that I highly recommend to road trip Connemara. It’s the kind of place you can easily spend a week, there’s that much to see and do. Outdoors is the name of the game here, from the water sports in Clifden Bay to the hiking in the Connemara National Park. It’s best seen of course by car, where you can stop and appreciate its scenery. Don’t miss the Sky Road too, it’s the shortest loop on the route, but the vista at its summit will astound. Families will love Clifden as a base, with its beaches and many water-based activities.

County Clare

One of our favourite counties in Ireland here at CarpeDiemEire, Clare is a road trip paradise. From the wide-open plains of the Burren, to possibly the best coastline in the country, you will really want to stop everywhere and admire the views. That coast has the Cliffs of Moher in its repertoire, one of Ireland’s must-do’s. But the villages and towns that dot the long oceanfront such as Kilkee, Lahinch, and the impeccably cute Doolin are great stops too. Doolin is a perfect springboard to the Aran Islands, with regular sailings. Inland there’s a lot of history in this county, in the castles of Dromoland, Leamaneh, Dysert O’Dea, and Bunratty.

County Kerry

Kerry is a county that’s perfect for a break any time of year. It has the hotels, it has the sights, and it definitely has the road trips. Undoubtedly its top of the Irish staycation spots.

The Ring of Kerry is a classic, a 179 km route through some of Ireland’s best scenery. Perhaps best seen over four days, this is my two-day Ring of Kerry itinerary to visit Killarney, the Killarney National Park, and to drive the route.

Dingle is one of Ireland’s liveliest towns, with a roaring nightlife year-round. While the Dingle Peninsula is small, a road trip taking in Connors Pass and the Slea Head drive will take your breath away. There are innumerate things to do in Dingle for visitors of all ages. If you haven’t been then now is surely the year.

Causeway Coastal Route

The Antrim Coast and Causeway Coastal Route of Northern Ireland is one of the most aesthetic routes in the whole country. Packed with sea views and some powerhouse sights, it’s the perfect escape for a few days. Along the way, you’ll pass Dunluce Castle, Carrick-a-Rede bridge, and of course the Giants Causeway. This is our suggested Causeway Coastal Route Itinerary, travelling from Belfast up the Antrim Coast. GOT fans will be able to combine the trip with some of the show’s famous filming locations. It’s an exciting part of the country.

Haunted and unusual Ireland

Looking for something a little bit off the usual track in Ireland? Then let me suggest taking in some of its most haunted and unusual locations. Most castles and old houses in Ireland have some tale of haunting attached to them, with most coming from a time when superstition was widespread. They are scattered all over the country and all having a unique history, often influenced by a tumultuous past. Better still you can spend the night in some of these, and test your mettle. Will you see the Wizard Earl come riding into Kilkea Castle? Or experience the Elemental in Leap Castle? These are just some of the ghosts of the 25 most haunted places in Ireland.

Some of Ireland’s gardens have a strong connection to its past. Brigit’s Gardens in Galway explore the Celtic Seasons. The Hill of Uisneach and Dun na Si Heritage Park also presents an unusual vision of our past. Near the famed Guinness lake in County Wicklow is a garden with a real difference. Victor’s Indian Way Sculpture Garden is an amazing place for adults to reflect and enter into the spiritual vision of its owner.

Be a Tourist in your own backyard

I’ve called Dublin home for the last 24 years, and yet there is so much I still haven’t seen and done in the city. I am constantly pushing myself to be a tourist in my own backyard. It’s the first place we should look for things to do, and yet is often the place we neglect the most. It may be a major tourist attraction that you thought you will get around to one day. This is that one day. Perhaps there is a museum that you didn’t think was your thing. I personally always put off visiting attractions in Dublin such as Dublin Castle and Trinity College until recently.

Sometimes all you need is a change of scenery. If you live in a city maybe there’s a fashionable neighbourhood that you haven’t been to ever or in a long time. Or a town within easy travelling distance that you have heard good things about. If there is, I’ll bet that it’s famed for a reason, perhaps it has interesting attractions, and more than likely it has a good culinary scene.

Dublin has some great attractions in Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Epic Museum, Kilmainham Gaol, and Christchurch Cathedral, which all bring different parts of Irish history to life. In its suburbs, Howth, Dalkey, Malahide, and Dun Laoghaire offer the visitor a unique city experience, with great culinary scenes, and a mix of harbours, hiking, and coastal experiences.

Fill your year with day trips

Gardens

Ireland’s gardens are the perfect day trips to fill your year with and stretch your legs. There’s no better place to social distance in the country, as open green spaces are our specialty. With the garden county (Wicklow) at Dublin’s door, its gardens such as Powerscourt, Kilruddery, and Mount Usher are the ideal day trip from the city. But gardens are found throughout the entire island, and even off the island in the case of Garnish Island in West Cork. Visiting during the different seasons also brings a different perspective to them.

Street art tours

With each year that passes our streets are becoming more and more like a canvas. Street artists the world over are adding murals and politically and socially motivated messages. It’s a great way to reintegrate back into life on the streets, without visiting crowded shopping streets. I for one will be avoiding those. Ireland has seen major growth in this art form over the last number of years, with urban centres such as Limerick, Dublin, Derry, Longford and Drogheda at the fore. Waterford and its Waterford Walls festival lead the way though. I have spent much time recently exploring the art on the streets of Dublin, and it’s amazing how much you can find with some exploration.

Take a Hiking Break

Hiking is an adventure activity that was made for social distancing. Travel to a remote part of the country, strap on some boots, and get lost on one of the many trails. Figuratively of course. The isolation is perfect for our dilemma. That said since the advent of social distancing many people have turned to hiking so it’s necessary to be inventive with your choice. Glendalough (pictured below) in Ireland is overrun with people as one of its most famed trails. So there is a responsibility to keep away from people even in rural areas. Looking for inspiration- download alltrails.com app and get off the beaten track. Of course, you could aim for one of the best 15 hikes in Ireland, a recent article here on CarpeDiemEire.

Don’t Forget to Support Local Businesses

This is perhaps the most important of all points of this blog, in terms of your own welfare and that of your fellow country people. As we recover from this unprecedented emergency that is afflicting us, there will be a considerable degree of recovery that we will need to undergo. It begins with us. Those local cafes and restaurants will be at breaking point. Holiday home and Hotels have been severely impacted. Tour buses and private tours are at a standstill. All of the above face possible closure and the job losses are unthinkable. Restaurants will have to observe the outdoor dining rule for the immediate future, so a safe environment will be presented to customers.

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It shall be a testing year ahead and we all are duty-bound to halt the progress of this terrible virus. But we can still appreciate some of what life has to offer in the months ahead. It’s only with all of our help that we can aid our economic recovery. Whether it’s to discover something new or save our favourites, start with an Ireland staycation to get back into that travelling frame of mind.

Have you a favourite way to staycation Ireland? Let me know in the comments below.

The Origin of The Netherlands Tulip Fields

Tulips will always be associated with Holland but they were only introduced to the country in the 15th century. They find their origin in the mountains of central Asia, with the lowlands of the Karatau Mountains of Kazakhstan blanketed in their colours. Growing wild here, the flowers are a national symbol for the Kazakhs. Kazakhstan’s position on the spice route between East and West, saw tulips been taken to Europe as a result.

Tulips grew in popularity in the Netherlands aided by their appearance in famous paintings. This peaked in the mid seventeenth century with Tulipmania, as tulips value rose so high they became used as a substitute for currency. Inevitably the market crashed, and people realised that perhaps flowers, a perishable item, weren’t the greatest currency. As modern times were reached, Holland became the world market leader in the growing of tulips as well as other flowers. Tulips are a passionate subject with the Dutch, with flower festivals being held throughout the year.

When to visit The Netherlands to see the tulips

From spring on the Dutch landscape changes as different flowers bloom. With flowers being such big business, the season spans from the daffodils of February through with purple hyacinths, pink crocuses, and of course tulips being prominent in different months. Tulip season runs from late March, through to mid-May. Mid-to-late April is considered the perfect time to see tulips in full bloom, and this is when I visited. The annual flower forecast will give a good indicator when is the peak time for Dutch tulip season.

Where to Stay to see the Tulips

The Netherlands is a small country and easily travelled by car or using its public transport links. Using Amsterdam as a base gives the best access to these, and presents so many options in terms of restaurants, bars, and of course hotels.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Tulips in Amsterdam

Many coming to the Netherlands to search for tulips, base themselves in Amsterdam. While it doesn’t quite provide the same experience as visiting those vast colourful fields, Amsterdam nonetheless satisfies some visitors whims with several tulip based attractions. The Amsterdam tulip festival celebrates the tulip season in Amsterdam and the whole country. It varies from year to year depending early spring arrives, which gives a flower forecast. This year the festival runs from 20th March to the 9th May. The festival is more a guide to all things tulip happening in The Netherlands, rather than a specific festival on a set day. It’s website, Tulip Festival Amsterdam, is a great resource for all that’s happening in the country, and the place to book tickets for the Flower Parade.

The Bloemenmarkt

Amsterdam’s floating flower market is found on a series of barges strung along the canal Singel canal. You are as likely to see locals as tourists here, looking for whatever flowers might be in season, including tulips in springtime. What you’ll mostly find here is a huge collection of seeds, which will allow you to create your own little version of a tulip field in your garden when the following year rolls around. Most of the barges currently are gift shops rather than florists, but that doesn’t detract from the visitor experience. The market has been here since 1862.

Amsterdam tulip museum

The Amsterdam Tulip Museum is found on Prinsengracht 116, quite close to the Anne Frank House, so its easily paired for visiting, The museum charts the history of the tulip, from its origins in the Himalayas, through Istanbul and then to The Netherlands. The museum is modern and large, and gives an opportunity at the end to pick up some tulip related memorabilia in its gift shop. If you missed the Bloemenmarkt, there is a huge amount of tulip varieties on sale here. Entry to the museum is €5 and its is open daily from 10-6, except on big national holidays.

Keukenhof Flower Parade

Though the flower parade is commonly called the Keukenhof Flower Parade, it can be seen in several towns and cities in the Netherlands. It’s an annual event which has been running since 1947, and growing bigger annually. The 2021 flower parade was due to have taken place on April 17th, but now cancelled due to ongoing restrictions. Each year, hundreds of flower covered floats travel the full route. The route spans a distance of around 40 km, and as well as the Keukenhof gardens, passes through Lisse, Sassenheim, Hillegom, Heemstede and Haarlem, on its route from the coastal town of Noordwijk. Over one million people annually watch the parade, which can be viewed for free, unless you purchase a seated ticket at one of the above towns or Keukenhof. Keukenhof’s Flower Parade is unique in that its floats are made solely from tulips and hyacinths.

Where to see the Dutch tulip fields?

There are three distinct areas of tulip farming in the Netherlands. The Noordoostpolder, the Noordwijkerhout, and Lisse are where your energies are best focused. Bear in mind that with each year, farmers rotate the fields where the flowers are grown, so its difficult to pinpoint the exact location of the fields. I guess for something so beautiful to grow, it takes a lot out of the soil.

Noordoostpolder

Noordoostpolder is an area located in the province of Flevoland. This is the main area for tulip growing in Holland, with many farms located here. Tours are often offered in this area by farmers, to see the fields. The world’s largest flower auction takes place at Aalsmeer in this region. This region is accessed in just under an hour by car from Amsterdam, but is the most difficult place to access by public transport, with a combined bus and train journey being two hours.

Noordwijkerhout

Noordwijkerhout is to the southwest of Amsterdam along with Lisse, and is far more accessible for those coming from Amsterdam on a day trip. The stretch of reclaimed land between The Hague to the south, and Alkmaar to the north is punctuated by the wonderful sight of tulip fields. Noordwijkerhout is an area of dunes and flowers, close to the city of Leiden.  Lisse produces many bulbs for the international market, and is the ideal place to find those long multi-coloured strips of land. Lisse is also the location of Keukenhof, the largest flower garden in the world.

Leiden, Lisse and Haarlem

With strong rail links the towns of the area such as Leiden, Lisse and Haarlem can be reached within 45 minutes or less. With Holland being such a bike friendly country, many bike trails lead through the countryside and this is an excellent way to see the tulip farms.

Take a private tour

Of course if that sounds a little too much like exercise, there is a wide selection of guided sightseeing tours available to see the tulip fields. It is recommend to book these in advance through Get Your Guide to avoid disappointment.

Our Dutch Tulip Field experiences

Ever the road tripper, I choose to travel by car and enjoyed as ever the liberties it gave me. We hired a car for two days while staying in Amsterdam, and combined a trip to prominent Dutch towns and sights with my desire to see those Netherlands tulip fields. It was my main motivation for those four days we spent there.

We rented a car from Schipol Airport, purely based on the convenience of returning to the airport, and because cars are generally much cheaper to hire from airports. We took the metro to Centraal station in Amsterdam, and the train from then on. Arriving in Schipol we followed the instructions calling for a pick up. After 15 minutes of waiting I realised I suffered a blonde moment, I wasn’t looking for a gold car, but a Goldcar Van. Which was white. With an unimpressed driver.

The car, as anyone who read my Adventures of Driving in Europe blog will know, was far from being the best, but she (a Ford Focus) got us where we needed. We began our day with a short drive to Leiden, an attractive and peaceful canalside town. It proved a little too peaceful as we found it difficult to find a badly needed cup of coffee, so we left the surroundings as quick as we had gotten there.

Keukenhof Gardens

Our first planned stop of the day was to the Keukenhof Gardens. Keukenhof is only fifteen minutes from Leiden and thirty from Amsterdam. These tulip gardens are one of the world’s largest flower gardens, with over 7 million flowers on show. Not sure who does the count, but an unenviable job. It only opens in spring for 8 weeks of each year.

We had bought the tickets online the day before for €16 each (entry is now €19) and €6 for parking. Not cheap but there is an amazing amount of work put into the maintenance here, and visiting Keukenhof is a must. The gardens are divided with structures in each corner each dedicated to different exhibits.

Our pre-purchased tickets allowed us to skip the queue and we made a beeline to the restaurant located in the Beatrix area. Those cappuccinos tasted so good after a long wait and they helped wash down the unplanned pepperoni pizza slices.

The park is best strolled at a slow pace, admiring the varieties of flowers on show and the complex arrangements. There are so many amazing displays, its astounding at times. However we found the indoor sections not to our liking, it wasn’t what we came for. So we only visited the Willem-Alexander and Oranje Nassau ones. Peaceful small canals dissect the park, and are crisscrossed by quaint bridges.

Highlights of Keukenhof

-The romance gardens and delft blue garden.

-The beautiful mill which can be entered and gives good views over the tulip fields beyond from its balcony.

-Navigating the maze to climb the watch tower for more views. Sometimes we must get lost to find what we are looking for.

-There is an optional boat ride out into the tulip fields but the waiting time was over 2 hours. If you plan to take this (and I’m sure it’s worth it) head here early and book your place, with a view to returning later.

-The formal gardens surrounding Oranje Nassau, with fountains and beautifully tended shrubs.

-Water features from the above fountains, to small canals, bring so much peace among the crowds. Quaint little bridges criss-cross them.                                                   

-Being spring, it’s not just the flowers that are an attraction. Blossoms are all over the park and add an extra dimension.                                                                               

-Strolling and getting slightly lost among a cacophony of colour. The tulips inevitably are the star attraction and they don’t disappoint.                                              

Keukenhof Gallery

In search of the Dutch tulip fields

While Keukenhof was undoubtedly stunning, the fields to its borders lacked colours. Leaving Keukenhof behind, now was finally the time to go in search of those Dutch bulb fields. I had used a rough non-scale map in an Eyewitness travel guide to pinpoint where they were on my google maps. The roads N206 and N444 were earmarked as good viewpoints so off we headed in that direction. They aren’t far from Keukenhof and we were glad of the freedom of the car.

Dutch Flower Fields Found

It didn’t take us long to find our goal on the N206. A large multi-coloured field loomed on our right and after a quick switch back over a canal on to a minor road we were there. The colours challenged those of a rainbow, with purple, yellow, pink, red, and white shades. We spent some time getting shots here and walking simply admiring the beauty. I tried to capture my idyllic photo but it wasn’t to be found here. Some of the tulips were still a little young, surprising for this late in April.

We pushed on further and another large field presented itself on the left. This time the tulips were fuller, but the field was not as iridescent as before. Red was most certainly the farmers preferred choice of colour, surely a romantic at heart.

We kept driving and admiring the fields and our route took us up the N444. This is all an idyllic part of the country, the canals clear and the houses well-tended. We stumbled upon the village of Voorhout, a town of perfect country houses whose back gardens opened to a canal and moored boats. The whole area was a joy to drive through from the continuing shifts of colour to the laid back way we of life we imagined. And yet despite covering much ground that field from my imagination was eluding me.

One Last Dutch Tulip Field

The following day we road-tripped north, to Alkmaar and its zany cheese market, Zaanse Schans and its wonderful windmills, and Haarlem with its amazing architecture. But that lingering thought of “that field”, the field from my mind, persisted. I couldn’t leave the country without finding it. As we left Haarlem we had time to burn before we were due to drop back the rental. I turned again to the main objective of our Dutch trip. To find the perfect tulip field.

Nature’s Perfection

So I following my gut and throwing my map and GPS aside, I went old school and simply drove. Well I drove south towards the region of Lisse at least. It took about 15 km and 3 times as many turns, but finally with little time left to return the car, I found the field that matched that in my mind’s eye. I was seemingly guided by the heavens, the suns rays filtered through the clouds, and I had one eye on it all the time while driving. Finally they settled above “that field”. Off to one side a row of trees sheltered the innumerable coloured flowers. I was elated. Mission complete. One less bucket list item to conquer.

It was to be the final act of our Dutch trip, but the curtains really came down on something memorable. Remember these are farms and the Dutch tulip fields locations will change with the years. Crop rotation is very much in effect. So explore the areas I’ve suggested and inevitably you will get your reward and leave the country as happy as I did.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too across Europe and North America.

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I already wrote about Sintra, and the three year anniversary of that blog is now approaching. It was an earnest early day effort but the years have allowed for some introspection. So much of what I did that day in April in Portugal were downright wrong. Maybe going to western Portugal in April in the first place was a wrong move. But we are not here to discuss the weather. Let’s discuss what you can do right on your Sintra day trip.

This rehashed blog has been inspired by Linda over at Meandering My Way who had a similar less than satisfying day visiting Sintra. Interestingly we didn’t even make the same mistakes. Linda’s take on visiting Sintra is certainly worth a read.

My Introduction to Sintra

Our final day in Lisbon, we endeavored to leave the city behind, and visit the Sintra Hills. It was the summer retreat for the kings of Lisbon for many centuries and the many palaces and mansions attest to that. This was one of those road trips that show how organic travelling can be. We had intended to visit the palaces of Pena and Sintra, along with Praia de Adraga beach but the day took a turn for the unexpected.

Ah even in the introduction to my Sintra Itinerary the problems began to surface.

How to get from Lisbon to Sintra

We rented a car for the day booking on rentalcars.com my favoured site. The pick up location was near Parque Eduardo VII in Lisbon, about 10 minutes walk from our hotel. I always book everything in advance; full insurance, car seats, so when I get to the counter all that remains is to sign it over and check the car. I had pre-booked a Volkswagen Polo, for which the insurance cost more than the car, so we were pleasantly surprised to get a Fiat 500 convertible. Using my iPhones google maps off we set to Sintra, which is about 25km northwest of Lisbon.

Take the Train

Right, so from the off I even got this wrong. I’m always an advocate of road trips. Always believe its the best way to see a place. Except in the case of Sintra. A car is not the best way to see Sintra. Just off Lisbon’s Rossio Square is Rossio Station that services Sintra. The station itself is an architectural marvel built in 1887 in the neo-Manueline style popularised in 16th century Portugal. The look of the station alone is enough to tell you that are on the right track. The Lisbon Rossio-Sintra train route takes 40 minutes to reach its destination.

While we are on the subject of getting there it must be noted that we probably took our time over breakfast before ambling over to the car rental agency. Then all the paperwork had to be signed etc etc etc. Big mistake. Sintra isn’t a get on the road at 10 am destination. It’s a get there as early as you can one, and make your full day count. Trains start running at 5:41 from Lisbon and go every 30 minutes from then on (though I’m not saying to catch that early one though unless you plan on being there for sunrise). Incidentally a ticket costs €4.50 return to Sintra, significantly less than renting a car.

The Best Of Sintra in One Day

Sintra National Palace

We arrived in Sintra around midday and first impressions were it certainly lived up to expectations. Second impression was that it is difficult to find a parking space. We did eventually after doubling back on Volta Duche. From here we had caught our first glances of the handsome town of Sintra, dominated by the unusual Sintra National Palace with its iconic conical chimneys. The palace and the whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Palace was mostly constructed in the 15th century by King John 1 and added to in the preceding centuries. It served as a country escape for the royals from Lisbon. It now functions as a museum.

Immediately the biggest issue with driving surfaces. There is a severe lack of parking within Sintra. Bear in mind that this was only April. The problem is further exacerbated in summer as the number of tourists increases. Traffic jams are a frequent problem in the town. As it were this was as close as we would get to the town. There is a good argument to skip the Sintra National Palace, so you don’t suffer palace fatigue by the end of the day. If you do wish to tick them all off it opens at 9:30 am and entry is €10. Visits on average should take around 45 minutes.

Sintra National Palace from a distance

Sintra Train Station and Town hall

We walked back to the gothic and gorgeous Camara Municipal. It’s the town hall of Sintra, constructed in the early 20th century, and Neo-Manueline in style. The town hall has a wonderful clock tower flanked by smaller spires. Decorated with false battlements and bright colours it is beautiful to behold. This was as close as we got to exploring the town as it turned out.

One could argue that I got this right. But if you take the train the route to the town passes right by it. I also neglected to go as far as Sintra train station, an attraction in its own right, with a colour scheme akin to the Mezquita in Cordoba. From the station its only 600 metres into the town. By all good accounts stopping at Queijadas da Sapa for their cheese cakes will perk you up. I didn’t. Pick up some bonus sightseeing points at the 12th century Igreja de São Martinho, before making your way to one of the palaces.

Venturing out into the Sintra Hills

We next drove up to the Palace of Pena, where the car that took us to Sintra proved to be a liability. Try as we might, we could not find parking. We eventually abandoned the plan and backtracked. We had intended to visit Praia de Adraga and return to the Palace of Pena after but while passing Quinta de Regaleira we were enticed inside.

Sintra’s countryside surroundings are a vast area of hills networked by hiking trails, and zig zag roads leading to palaces. Those narrow roads do not lend well to parking. One prevailing image I have from the misadventure to the Palace of Pena is the number of tuk-tuks on the road. It’s a big clue about how to get around the municipality. Tuk-tuks ferry people all day up and down those steep roads to the palaces and trails and cost around €5. Even more of a life saver for day trips than the tuk-tuks is the number 434 bus, a.k.a. the tourist bus. This runs direct from Sintra Train station stopping at the town centre and then on to Pena Palace and the Castle of the Moors. A one way fare is €3,90 and the buses start at 9:15 am.

You may be tempted to take that hop on hop off bus that colourfully convinces your lazy sub-conscience that it’s the easiest way to move between palaces. Don’t be easily fooled. It also takes you in a loop around the whole Sintra Hills National Park and out to the coast. That’s precious Palace time lost forever.

Quinta de Regaleira (the best thing to do on one day in Sintra)

We weren’t disappointed. It’s rare a place impresses me so much when I didn’t expect it. Quinta de Regaleira house and estate are like an extract from a fantasy novel. There is a magical and mythical feeling within. The Estate was purchased in the late 19th century and work began to create a location that reflected the owners ideologies and interests. He had a vision of a property that blended imagery from alchemy, masonry, and the Knights Templar, with Gothic, Manueline and other styles. What resulted is bizarre and brilliant.

We found parking in a local hotel called the Tivoli Palacio de Seteias. Entry to the UNESCO recognised grounds was only €6 for an adult. This is for an unguided visit but maps are provided. Guided tours are available for €10. Ornaments and structures litter all corners of the four hectare estate. The grounds are supposed to represent the cosmos and each monument is significant in this.

There is a café outside the main house and we refueled there before heading in. The ground floor is lavishly furnished with murals adorning the walls. The upper floors are more barren, but there are balconies from which to view the grounds. One notable room is the library, which has a partially mirrored floor, guaranteed to induce vertigo.

The Grounds of Quinta de Regaleira

But the grounds without doubt are the main attraction, and easily traversed in an hour or so. Immediately outside the house is the Terrace of the Gods, a statue lined walkway which is simply epic. Tunnels link different parts of the grounds, and several of these converge on the initiation well. This is a fascinating subterranean structure containing a labyrinth grotto, and a winding stairs takes one back to the surface level. It is supposedly styled on Dante’s Inferno, and symbolic of his descent into hell.

There are a number of really interesting structures most notably;

Stopping then at Quinta de Regaleira was one of the few things we did well in Sintra. I could say I got it right… but we never even planned to visit. Hands down it was the best of all our stops on that day, and the one place that has left a lasting impression with me.

Praia de Adraga

Next we motored west towards Praia de Adraga, stopping at a bar in Almocageme for lunch. Not too much imagination as hot dogs and sandwiches are served. Then it was on to the beach. It’s a thirty minute drive from Sintra, through a collection of narrow snaking roads. Having found this beach breathtaking during my research the real thing duly emptied my lungs.

It is perfectly remote with no bars or beach clubs to ruin the natural beauty. Large sea stacks provide a target for the Atlantic’s booming waves, with deep caves and arches cut into their base by sea erosion. The immaculate sand stretches from there for several kilometres of uninterrupted beach. It is backed up by wild hills and giant boulders. This is my idea of a beach. The wildness was magnified by a strong coastal wind, but we spent an hour here, Nina playing and us exploring.

While there’s no argument that the beach is a worthwhile distraction from the town and its palaces, it is unfortunately also that. It’s rather out of the way and we lost two hours by our detour. Were I to suggest though that you spend more than one day in Sintra (I may still do that) then Praia de Adraga is possible to visit by bus number 403 that runs hourly. Though I can’t guarantee it will be a comforting ride on those snaking roads.

Palace of Pena (what brings everyone for a day in Sintra)

The round trip to the beach took longer than expected so when we arrived back in Sintra we deliberated that there wasn’t enough time to see our original destination the Palace of Pena. Instead we stopped at the Castelo de Mouros.

With our return came the harshest of realities of how our day was going. Pena Palace was what drew me to Sintra and now I wouldn’t be able to see it. Unless these distant photos count.

History of Pena Palace

Which they don’t. Pena Palace is particularly aesthetic famous for its blend of reds and yellows. Its a long distance from the cold stone behemoths of the British Isles. It is listed as one of the seven wonders of Portugal and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There once stood a monastery on this site but a conspiracy by nature in the 18th century saw it first struck by lightening, and then destroyed by the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755.

From the rubble, King Ferdinand II had a vision of a summer palace for the Kings and Queens of Portugal, and commissioned its building. Finished in 1854 it stands as one of the greatest examples of 19th century romanticism in the world. It’s principal architect was German Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege, whose background included work on some of the castles of the Rhine, but the Pena palace also includes elements of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance architecture.

Visiting Pena Palace

Pena Palace is the most visited site in Sintra, so I would recommend getting there early before the crowds arrive en masse. Grab the first tuk-tuk you see in Sintra. The park opens from 9 am with the palace following shortly after at 9.30 am. Entry into the palace is €14 for an adult, or to Pena Park is €7.50. Interestingly, its often noted that the inside of the palace is quite small, quite crowded and questionably worth the price of admission. The list includes Linda from Meandering My Way. Before I start justifying my decisions on the day I’ll stop myself. Seeing the castle up close in all its majesty is A MUST in Sintra. Walk its grounds and appreciate it from all angles, and peer down onto Sintra from above.

Castelo Dos Mouros

The Castelo de Mouros was built by the Moors in the 9th Century but fell into ruin after the Christian reconquest. It was restored in the 19th century. What remains are the significant battlements that snake around the Sintra hills, high above the town. Entry is €8 to see the castle. Be prepared for a lot of walking and a lot of steps. The castle is a series of stairs connecting the battlements which sit atop the various hills in their path. The views to Sintra below and across the hill to the Palace above are exhilarating. The hills are all interconnected by hiking paths and a few days could easily be spent discovering their treasures.

I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Moorish Castle and the views are stupendous. Why I chose it over Pena Palace, I can’t say now, but I don’t feel regret in having done so. To use those trails to hike between the two and visit both is what I implore you to do after your early morning visit to Pena Palace. Then follow the trails back down to the town. Follies and fountains fill the hill sides, and only by foot will you find them.

What to bring on a day in Sintra

The expectation is that even if you use the bus to reach Pena Palace, a lot of walking will be done over the day. Good, supportive walking shoes are a must for the terrain, even if you stay off the hiking trails. Bring plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat as a lot of times will be spent outdoors. If visiting in the shoulder seasons, rain cover may be needed, as this is not the Algarve. Last of all bring your sense of adventure, it will be nurtured here.

The Case for Spending more than one day in Sintra

Perhaps the greatest irony about this one day guide to Sintra is that I must confess one day simply isn’t enough to see all it has to offer. I’ve offered a sampling here of its biggest sights. But there’s so many more things to see in Sintra, and perhaps that’s why the one day disappointment exists. You will leave having not seen the Park and Palace of Monserrate, Convent of the Capuchos, Chalet and Garden of the Countess of Edla, the Sanctuary of Peninha and Villa Sassetti. Then there’s the Vale de Lagos Pateira botanical gardens, and the trails of Parque de Merendas. It’s definitely justification to extend that stay.

The coast in this region is nearly as aesthetic as the national park. Given time it’s worth a deviation to beaches such as Praia de Adraga and headlands such as Cabo de Roca. This headland is noted for being the most westerly point on mainland Europe. Further north is Praia das Macas a beach reached in 45 minutes by using the Sintra tram. Above the beach is the archeological site of Alto da Vigia, which marks as far west as the Roman civilisation reached.

Decided to stay in Sintra

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Private Tours of Sintra

If you are interested in a small group private tour of Sintra, they are available through Get Your Guide with some departing from Lisbon for the day. Alternatively it is an excellent source of skip the line tickets for attractions. This is a big consideration when travelling during those busy summer months.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lock-downs are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and in fact now protect domestic trips too.

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Interested in visiting some of Europe’s other beautiful cities and towns? Here’s a few suggestions.

We spent two days travelling this County Galway region in August of 2020. The country had relaxed it’s restrictions with cases low and spirits high. Nonetheless social distancing was very much in force and tourist attractions and hospitality pursued a safe approach with vigor. One can assume that 2021 will see move of the same with staycations once again very much on the agenda.

Where is this Connemara Place?

Connemara is a district to the west of the city of Galway. It is a unique part of Ireland, in landscape and culture. Ireland’s largest Gaeltacht (Irish speaking) spans much of the area. At its heart is the Connemara National Park, one of six national parks in Ireland. The 20 km² area is defined by bogs, mountains, and lakes. The Connemara region is not all barren though, the town of Clifden is its heartbeat, and a suitable base. Oscar Wilde best described Connemara as a savage beauty.

Areas such as this can be seen by guided tour, but only in a limited way. The freedom to stop where you wish, venture to small random places, and control your own trip come via road tripping. Of course, Ireland does drive on the left which can be a little bit of a put off for many first time visitors from abroad. Fear not, my driving tips for visitors to Ireland is at hand to put your mind at ease.

Where to Stay in Connemara

While much of Connemara is rural and wild, tourism is a strong influence on the local economy and hotels, B&B’s and Airbnb’s dot the landscape. To be in touch with good amenities I do recommend being close to some of the rural center’s. Galway is definitely worth a consideration, the largest urban centre on the west coast, with hotels, restaurants and pubs aplenty. Connemara can then be visited in a series of day trips.

But if your preference is in the heart of Connemara, look no further than the main town of Clifden. Perched on the coast, its a vibrant place with way more pubs and restaurants than its 1500 people need. The hotel options include the tres classy Abbeyglen Castle Hotel and Ballynahinch Castle, to the more sedate Foyles Hotel and Alcock and Brown Hotel. High season demand leads to inflated prices, with the best deals to be found in the shoulder months of April through June and September to October. You’ll more likely find the best weather in those months too.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links such as this booking.com link, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Or in the case of 2021, get me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Things to do in Connemara (on a road trip)

We started our road trip from Salthill, which we used as a base for our days in Galway. You can read more about the attractions of Galway City on my previous blog. Our Connemara loop first took us to Spiddal, which is the beginning of the local Gaeltacht here. Our direction on day two would see us first stop at Glenlo Abbey, a five star hotel that has a impeccable reputation. The road between the two cuts through the Moycullen Bog, a vast National Heritage area. From there we would continue on towards the main stops of Connemara.

To explore Connemara you need at least two days of travelling to really appreciate its finer pleasures. While one day will take you from Galway to the Clifden, the Sky Road, and Kylemore Castle, this is a place to slow travel and take all that scenery in, and stop where the whim takes you. The blog I’ve written is with that length of trip in mind, but we could easily have extended beyond into three or four days.

Our trip was somewhat marred by Storm Ellen, which raged it’s own personal war on Ireland for three days. While it wasn’t a washout winds were much a factor, and ruled out some of our aspirations to visit beaches and go hiking. Ireland is wet and windy at the best of times, but storms to render it a little more dangerous. That said the gods of the road were fair to us and gave us some blue spells.

Visit the Gaeltacht at Spiddal

Spiddal is a small village of only 237 at last count. If you keep your ears open you might just catch some gossip in the native tongue. That said I’m not advising going here for to eavesdrop. The coast here is the real attraction and the ocean ferociously batters the beach. With a perfect unimpeded view west, it’s one of the best places for seeing the sun set in the county.

Witness timeless crafts first hand at Spiddal Craft Village and Cafe

An Ceardlann Craft and Design Studios is a must see in the village. Firstly the craft shops are housed in beautiful little cottages, all painted in a myriad of bright colours. Street art distinguishes one from the other, and lets you know what to expect from the inside. Some of the near-lost crafts that are on show include basket weaving, acrylic painting, stained glass, pottery, and the making of Celtic Jewellery. If you are looking for a unique Irish gift to take home, you are definitely in the right place here.

Stay or Dine at Glenlo Abbey

This 5 star hotel is worth its inclusion on this list purely because the next time I’m in Galway, I’ll be laying my hat here. Set in 138 acres on the shores of Lough Corrib and the result of a conversion of a 1740 manor house, it’s spectacular. That’s before you set eyes on the Pullman Restaurant. This is housed in two carriages taken from the Orient Express, and its food is the recipient of 2 AA Rosettes. Add falconry, fishing, and cycling in the estate to the possible activities, and its definitely a reason to spend another couple if days in Connemara. Double occupancy rates start at around the €260 mark.

Having hit the road later on day two of our road trip (thanks to a typical Irish morning) and got as far as here looking for some lunch. Covid times being Covid times, we weren’t allowed to enter the hotel when we visited. However they have an Airstream to the rear of the hotel, for nosey wanderers like myself. Trust me it’s not a bad substitute as you can look over the grounds while enjoying their speciality, a goats cheese wrap. Or at least we were led to believe it was their speciality. It more than lived up to its billing.

Get surprised by Brigit’s Gardens & Cafe

Sixteen minutes from Glenlo Abbey it’s time to ease off the accelerator. Down a few winding roads off the N59 is a real curiosity. We sat in the car and debated if it was worth visiting. Thankfully the right choice was made. Admission to the gardens costs €6.50 and you’ll find up to date information on dates and times of opening at Brigit’s Garden.

Brigit’s Garden is a botanical garden with a difference. While trees, flowers and shrubs are used to decorate the eleven acres, they are far from the focus. Instead it’s Irish mythology that takes centre stage, with a socially distanced route taking you through each distinct part. There are four gardens each themed around the four Celtic seasons, and within you’ll find ancient structures such as Crannogs and Celtic huts. The sundial on site is the largest and most complex found in Ireland. The gardens were designed by Mary Reynolds, an acclaimed award winning Irish gardener. Throughout you’ll find sculptures carved in bronze, bog oak and stone. It’s a blissful place to pass through on a bright sunny day.

Of course we couldn’t pass the café without sampling some of the loveliness that they serve. I know we have now eaten in 2 of the 4 places I’ve recommended so far today, but aren’t all trips about enjoying all that a locality has to offer including it’s fresh produce. Rest assured Brigit’s Garden Café is as good as you’ll find in the middle of nowhere, anywhere. Their soups are particularly delightful.

Aughnanure Castle

You’ll barely have gotten back up to full speed when you should turn to visit this tower house. Aughnanure Castle was the 16th century home of the O’Flaherty’s who ruled Connaught for a considerable time. The families strength came from an alliance when Donal an Chogaidh O’Flaherty married Grace O’Malley, the feared pirate queen of Mayo in Ireland. The castle has survived the centuries well, and the six stories tower house can be visited, with the banqueting hall as the highlight. Apparently. While we were able to walk the site in August 2020, the tower wasn’t open, but at least the usual €5 admission wasn’t charged.

Quiet Man Bridge

A mere 10 km from the castle, is this not to be missed location for fans of the Quiet Man. From here, John Wayne sat and looked across the landscape remembering his childhood. For those of who aren’t fans or have never watched, well its a nice double arch bridge anyway, constructed in stone. Great place for a selfie.

Connemara National Park- The best thing to do in Connemara

The Connemara National Park was opened in 1980 and covers a land area of 2000 hectares. The lands once belonged to Kylemore Abbey and Letterfrack Industrial School. The lands were sold to the state to form the park. Much of the landscape is blanket bog with the Twelve Bens rising from the sea level landscape. The highest of these is Benbaun at 729 metres.

Within the park there is much wildlife with meadow pipits, skylarks, stonechats, chaffinches, robins, wrens, kestrel, sparrow hawk, merlin and peregrine falcon the predominant bird species. Mammals such as rabbits, foxes, stoats, pine marten, shrews, minks and bats can mostly be seen at night.

There are only two routes that really travel the park. The first is the road around that passes through Spiddal and north towards Killary fjord. The other is one that dissects the park and passes the Lough Inagh valley. It’s this that gives some of the most unrivalled views around.

Lough Inagh Valley

The Lough Inagh Valley sat at the top of my list of where to drive on this trip. Online searches had me frothing at the mouth looking at the lake with the mountains to the rear. While the weather didn’t exactly play ball, and give me some of those reflective mirror lake views I was looking for, the lake was still charming in grey.

The road is a short one at only 15 km, but it twists and rolls through the valley opening up breathtaking perspectives with each turn. There isn’t much opportunity to stop without causing some sort of traffic obstruction, so its best to just let your memory capture what’s around you till you get to the lakeside. Finally the there’s a chance to pullover and appreciate your surroundings. The lakeside was swamp-like after the deluge in recent days (that’s August in Ireland for you) so I admired from afar.

Connemara National Park Visitor Centre & Hikes

With us once more on the N59 having traversed the Lough Inagh valley, a short journey west takes us to Letterfrack and the Connemara national Park Visitor centre. This is the real gateway to the park, and the real means to get there is on foot. In summer of 2020 the visitor centre was shut. In better times the visitor centre (which is located in old farm buildings) gives information on the park, its history and local wildlife. There is also abundant information on the trails, and the mandatory tea rooms. If you can’t wait, Alltrails (which has often been my friend in 2020) has a full list of trails at the link enclosed.

The easiest accessed and most hiked is the Diamond Hill hike. It’s the closest to the Connemara National Park and its length can be adjusted to suit all fitness levels. Naturally the longer the option taken, the better the views that one can expect. The shortest option is only 2.5 km, but the more commonly taken trail is the 6 km upper trail loop. You can guarantee amazing views of the 12 Bens and Connemara landscape. Unless you happen to come on a day where the wind is howling from a storm! Alas this is one I had to leave for another day.

Find some Connemara Ponies- The cutest of the top things to do in Connemara

Connemara’s largest mammal is its own indigenous species of pony. The Connemara Pony has long galloped through this landscape. They are defined by their tough nature, having adapted to the harshness of the terrain and weather. The adults can grow to a maximum of 148 cm and they are particularly good for riding. There are many Connemara pony shows around the British Isles. Its really unknown where the ponies originated from, with theories suggesting they came with Vikings or the Spanish, or that they are descendant from the Irish Hobby, a now extinct species. Wherever they may have, these ponies will melt your heart when you see them.

Kylemore Abbey

If culture and history is what you are after on this road trip, then stop right here. While technically you will arrive here before the visitor centre, it wouldn’t fit in well with the flow of the blog to tell it that way. So back we go. Kylemore Abbey is as remarkable a building as you’ll find in Connemara. When you add its location overlooking Pollacapall Lough, and the vast grounds and sculpted Victorian Walled gardens, you have one of Ireland’s best tourist assets.

Kylemore Abbey was built in 1867 as a Victorian Castle by the affluent Mitchell Henry, who brought his family to be raised here from Manchester. Clearly he had a vision of what we see nowadays. The house was built by architect James Franklin Fuller. Inside there are 23 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 4 sitting rooms, and many more. The grounds covered an area of 13,000 acres. All that only cost them £18,000, about the same price as three bricks and a wheelbarrow nowadays. However a few years later tragedy struck the family when Mitchells wife Margaret took sick during a trip to Egypt, and died. In her honour Mitchell built her a church near the house, but her remains are buried in a mausoleum in the woods.

The Henry family sold the house to the Duke and Duchess of Manchester in 1902. They changed much of the interiors removing the Italian and Connemara marble that adorned the interior. In 1920 it passed to an order of the Benedictine nuns, who still live here to this day. Over the past century it has been a guesthouse, school, and finally its current incarnation as a tourist attraction.

Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Gardens

The grand house itself can be visited as part of the €14 entry ticket to the estate, At present only the ground floor has been restored to tour, as it still functions as a home for the Benedictine order. While the furnishings are wonderfully Victorian its not worth the price of admission in itself. Though the other features compensate with the church, mausoleum, and the Victorian gardens all accessible. A free shuttle service runs between the house and gardens for those who don’t wish to make the one kilometre walk through the lush woodland. But perhaps the greatest asset of the place is free, that view across the lake onto the house. It’s definitely one of the best in Ireland.

Killary Harbour

This natural feature is further back along the N79 from Kylemore Castle, and definitely an option for those looking to leave Connemara behind and begin exploring County Mayo. Ireland’s only true fjord, it is followed dramatically by a section Wild Atlantic Way. Killary fjord cuts 16 km in from the Atlantic, and is surrounded to the north by Mweelrea mountain, the largest in Connaught. Shellfish fishing is famed in the area with mussel farms evident along the fjord. To appreciate it even more Killary Cruises offer 90 minute boat tours out of Leenane, a scenic village that featured in the movie, The Field.

Omey Island

Rather than head to Mayo, its time to get back on track in Connemara and on the N79. Our next stop is some 20 minutes off the road, as we near the town of Clifden. This little curiosity is a tidal island and as this is a road trip guide it would be remiss of me to not include it. The island can be reached in high tide, and a line of arrows sends you in the correct direction. Can I suggest doing good research on when the tides are in your favour before making your trip. You can do that here.

Once on the island seek out Feichin’s Church. this 7th century ruin was once completely submerged in sand. It, along with the village remnants around it, were abandoned when the great famine hit hard in the 19th century. There’s a holy well to be found too. However if you just want to sit on a sandy beach on a near deserted island, this might just be the place to do it in Ireland.

Clifden

If already advised that Clifden is the best town to prop yourself at a bar in at the end of the day. But what else does this town 50 kilometres from Galway have to offer. On first glance, it’s a bright colourful Victorian town, well set up to deal with throes of tourists. Cafes and restaurants compliment well the pubs. Among the best are Mitchell’s restaurant and Darcy Twelve. If Irish music is your thing (and let’s be honest it should be in this part of the country) then look no further than Lowry’s Music and Whiskey bar. Better still come in April when the town hosts an Annual Traditional Music Festival.

Within easy reach are an almost endless list of outdoor activities. popular hiking takes you to the national park, and along the coastline on the Clifden Beach Road. Clifden’s bay has a sandy beach, kayaking, sailing, boat rides and surfing. Fishing and canoeing are also popular outdoor activities. Just outside Clifden is Ard Bear, where the first transatlantic flight by Alcock and Brown had a bit of a rough landing. Every August the Connemara Pony Show takes over the town.

While our visit to Clifden was just whistle-stop, we decided there and then it would be the prefect base for our next Connemara trip.

Clifden Castle

Three kilometres from the town and not far from the Clifden Beach road is the towns eponymous castle. We had an encounter with a herd of marauding sheep as we sought to find our way in. The castle was built in 1818 by John D’Arcy, the founder of the town. Built in the gothic revival style, it was more manor house than castle. You reach it by following the trail from the stone archway on the roadside. Parking along the road here is permitted.

The trail loops down for about 15 minutes before the castle finally looms into view. There are signs saying no entry, but I think those relate to the fields on either side. Worth knowing though is that if there has been heavy rains before hand, the trail is likely to flood, and is impassible without good boots. As happened on our visit. We could only make it to 100 metres from the castle. For those pushing on, the ruins can be walked inside and around. Even reaching this far was worthwhile though, as the structure is impressive. Clifden Castle fell into ruin in the 1930’s but not before a despicable event that left it haunted. Find out why it is one of the most haunted in Ireland here.

See the views from the Sky road

The Sky Road is a popular driving, hiking and cycling route. It’s no surprise as at the top is one of the best views of the Atlantic in the country. It is a 16km route out of the town, which I guess will dissuade some to try the Sky Road Walk part. Each follow the same route to the Kingstown Peninsula by the Clifden Beach Road, before passing Clifden castle, and climbing steadily to the vista point on the Sky Road.

Wonder why its called the Sky Road? You won’t when you get to this point. Thankfully there’s plenty of parking to jump out and appreciate what’s before you. The elevated view takes in the Atlantic, its islands, and stretches to County Clare to the south and Mayo to the north. Quite simply its an unmissable thing to do in Connemara on a road trip.

Dan O’Hara Homestead

This heritage centre is located in the former home of Dan O’Hara, a farmer who was forced to leave his home in the 1840’s and emigrate. The old thatch cottage has been turned into a museum and the adjoining land into an open farm and a Connemara heritage centre. It’s perhaps the easiest place to see Connemara Ponies too. The heritage centre shows old countryside practices in Ireland such as turf cutting and making soda bread. If that builds up a hunger there is a restaurant on site. Tours of the heritage centre cost €8.50.

Other Things to do near Connemara

As the Dan O’Hara Homestead was our last target in Connemara we now left the area in our rear view mirror. Our base was Galway and we returned to the city for the evening, but would venture out again on the second day. En route back to the city, keep a sharp eye out for Pines Island, an island on Derryclare Lough, and one of the most photographed locations in the whole area.

Those looking to extend the road trip can travel south from Clifden on the R341. This semi-circular diversion will take you by a very coastal route, and some of the counties best beaches await, in particular Dog’s Bay. There are other distractions too, Connemara Smokehouse and Factory Shop is a must for salmon lovers. Alternatively there’s an attraction for those who have been enthralled by the instruments used by the traditional musicians of the county. Roundstone Musical Instruments & Crafts are skilled instrument makers. Here Malachy Kearns displays the craft of making bodhrans, one of Ireland’s oldest instruments. The road takes you back to the N79 at Derryclare Lough.

At alternate plan for the area is visiting Cong, and this is reached by turning north at Maam Cross and following the banks of Lough Corrib to the famed Irish town. It’s not technically in Connemara (nor Galway) but would be a shame to miss if in the county.

Cong

Cong lies 30 km from Maam Cross. The town technically marks the border between Galway and Mayo, so I get away with including it. You can even stand on the bridge separating the counties. But I digress, this isn’t why we are here. Cong is ranked as one of the top things to do in Ireland on TripAdvisor, and is one of its most visited places. While the town is impeccably cute, this isn’t why. It all boils down to one reason, this is where The Quiet Man was filmed. This movie is how a lot of tourists may have imagined Ireland is going to be, and so it might be if 70 years had not passed. The movie put Ireland on the tourist map.

The town is alive as you approach with crowds exploring the streets. Bear in mind this was on a year where no foreign tourists were present. One can only imagine a different August. Parking is difficult to find, so seek out the Parking Lot on the towns edge and walk in. First on your agenda must be the Quiet Man Cottage, a thatch-roofed museum stacked with memorabilia from the movie. Then onto Cong Abbey a 13th century Augustinian Abbey now lying in ruins. To the fore of the abbey is a statue of John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. The Abbey ruins are also a springboard to a number of lovely walks in the forest beyond, with intriguing finds such as the the Monks Fishing House found within.

Ashford Castle

If your pocket stretches far enough then perhaps a night in Cong appeals. It’s premier hotel is Ashford Castle, which has found its way onto worlds best hotels lists. It’s not surprising given its location on the lake edge and aesthetics. The core of the castle was built in 1228, but given a Victorian sprucing up in 1852. It now sits on a pedestal as Ireland’s finest castle hotel. It’s list of former guests is impressive including Ronald Regan, John Lennon, Brad Pitt and King George V of England. Who wouldn’t want to be included in such company?

Menlo castle

From Ireland’s most opulent castle to one of its most beautiful ruins. Menlo Castle lies 40 kilometres from Cong and just outside Galway and is the last stop on our Connemara road trip. This charming ruin is covered in ivy and is perfect to explore and build your influencer shot portfolio. Entry is down a laneway and over a gate into a field. However the public is welcome on the land.

The castles history is tragic. Built by the Blake family in 1569, it was engulfed in flames in 1910, and their descendant Eleanor Blake presumably perished in the flames. Ulick Blake inherited the castle only to be found dead outside a few years later. It has since laid in ruins, and nature has reclaimed it. It is now a popular free sight in Galway.

Summary of the What to do in Connemara- On a Road Trip

Of course it’s your road trip and the beauty of road trips is foraging your own path through an area. I hope I’ve given you a glimpse of some of what Connemara has to offer. As earlier recommended, two days should give a glimpse into Connemara life, and make a firm dent on its best activities. Without a doubt there is more than enough to do whatever your interests, be they adventure, culture, history, or foodie based. If you prefer to just lay on a beach watching the ocean, you can do that too. May the weather be with you.

Private tours of the best things to do in Connemara and Galway

What else to do on Ireland’s West Coast

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What are the Cotswolds?

The Cotswolds is a region in South Central England near Bath and Bristol, containing the Cotswolds hills. The whole region is a succession of rolling hills and has been designated an Area of Outstanding National Beauty. Beneath the hills is a Jurassic formed limestone. Its this golden coloured limestone that brings the area its most distinguishable feature, as it has been heavily mined for centuries and is used to build the areas distinct villages. Characterised by that stone, every village and house you see will have you oooing in amazement. If cake is food-porn then the Cotswolds are architecture-porn.

Our Visit to Castle Combe

A spring road trip in the United Kingdom took us through the Wiltshire countryside, with a stop in Castle Combe village high on the agenda, before the city of Bath. A period Cotswold village of magnificent houses, it would prove to have a lasting impression on my memory. What can I say about Castle Combe? That its possibly my new favourite village. Ever. Period.

Where is Castle Combe?

Castle Combe is located in the county of Wiltshire in South East England. Its nearest town is Chippenham five miles away. The closest city where you might be using as a base is Bath, one of Britain’s oldest and most interesting. Bath is fifteen miles from Castle Combe. Bristol, the local transport hub twenty miles away, has international links to 110 destinations. Cardiff the Welsh capital is fifty miles away while London is one hundred miles away. Its possible to day trip from any to Castle Combe.

The Cotswold village is located on the Bybrook River and is split into two, an upper and lower village. A car park is available near the upper village but we continued on and stopped on the road side bypassing the upper part. You are required to park your car out of the village, with the village being pedestrianized. We went on foot into the village and its a pleasant stroll through the surrounding woodlands.

What to do in Castle Combe

The Village

From first sight it is breathtaking. The village gets its name from a 13th century castle that once stood nearby. Once the castle was destroyed the limestone from the castle was then used to construct some of the cottages of the village. It all is so postcard perfect. Honestly there isn’t a lot to do here but when it all looks this good you will just be lost in the moment. I think that’s enough.

Manor House

While walking around a local woman suggested we enter a private area, and if anyone were to ask to say we were looking for our car. We were glad we did, as a walk by some cute as Christmas houses took us to the beautiful grounds of the Manor House Hotel, a country house from the 17th century and now an upscale hotel and golf club. The house which has quite a history is a Grade II listed building.

The grounds surrounding also were fitting with the river Bybrook cutting through on its way to Castle Combe, and steps leading to well-tended gardens above the house. The Italianate gardens were a delight with flower beds and a croquet lawn adding to the very Victorian feel We couldn’t help but feel we were trespassing a bit so we returned to the village after some brief exploring. Travel goals include returning and staying here some day. Those really wanting to get into the local swing of things, can play a round of golf at the Manor House Golf Club.

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Walk the length of the Village

All two minutes of it. Each house in the village seems more beautiful than the last and there are the side attractions of the medieval market cross and the church of St Andrews. We walked the length of the village and stopped to photograph the bridge as everyone who enters the town does. Some of the houses are off-limits; it can’t be easy calling somewhere like this home, when every day someone wants to stare in your window.

St Andrews Church is a small but attractive stop on the stroll through. Though originally built in the 13th century, it has been altered many times since and contains several different architectural styles. The graveyard has a number of interesting tombs and gravestones before you reach the structure. At the base of the church tower is a faceless clock, which is considered to be the among the oldest working clocks in the country. Within, the Lady Chapel is of most interest, particularly a memorial to Walter de Dunstanville, the Baron of Castle Combe until 1270.

At the convergence point of Castle Combe’s three main streets is a Market Cross. It was built in the 14th century when the village earned the right to hold a market. The structure is known as a butter cross, a common structure of the time where people would gather to buy and sell dairy.

Have a little lunch or Snack in Castle Combe

There are a few options for food in authentic village surroundings such as the Castle Inn and the Old Rectory Tea Room. The Old Rectory tea rooms are in a house dating from 1490, and are open to groups of six or more by reservation. The Castle Inn is even older, with its origins in the 12th century. The pub below is as traditional as it gets, and its fare as British as possible, with pies, fish and chips and afternoon tea served. We had a quick coffee and scone in the Old Stables Coffee Shop a pleasant place with very friendly staff. The outdoor seating is ideal to enjoy them on sunny mornings.

Castle Combe in the Movies

If you recognise the village a little it’s probably from its use as the set in many main stream movies and shows. From the original Doctor Doolittle to modern day Downton Abbey, the town has hosted Anthony Hopkins in the Wolfman, and the great Steven Spielberg. Many of the main scenes of Warhorse were filmed here.

Castle Combe Circuit

It is also famed for the Castle Combe circuit, with race meetings taking place each year in the nearby World War II airfield. The Polish airmen of the war were soon replaced by loud fast cars. Over the past 70 years Formula 3 cars, motorcycles, sports and Gt’s have all hurled around the track. Annually there is a two day summer meeting, with a full weekend of racing. It’s the guaranteed busiest weekend of the year in the passive Cotswolds village.

Take a Guided Tour of Castle Combe and the Cotswolds

There are many group tours take make a stop in Castle Combe while visiting the Cotswolds and Stratford-upon-Avon. Get your guide offers a reliable service to book a tour.

Castle Combe Gallery

As I mentioned before the greatest joys are in walking and admiring. With that in mind I will let my photos speak for themselves. They usually say a thousand words, and no truer than when a village looks like this. The following is my argument that Castle Combe is Britain’s finest.

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This tourist attraction is quite unlike any others I’ve visited in Ireland. In fact it’s possibly unlike any I’ve visited in the world.

I visited Leap Castle mostly by accident. I knew previously of its existence and a little of the story behind it. But as chance would have it, while I was travelling around the area on a road trip some months back , I found myself within a few miles of it. As it would turn out, it would prove to be the unexpected highlight of this pandemic road trip.

Visiting Leap Castle

Leap Castle is located in County Offaly between the towns of Roscrea and Birr. It’s about 1 hour and 45 minutes from Dublin, Cork and Galway. A real middle of nowhere place, as you can see on the map below. Don’t expect a bus stop outside, it’s only reached by car and GPS. Even then it’s hard to recognise from the road.

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As I pulled up outside the gate house of the castle I couldn’t even tell if it was open. I parked the car in on the hard shoulder and walked inside, in the unexpected hope that I could visit. My hopes weren’t high as all looked deserted. Just then an elderly gent walked out from a cottage. My first impressions were that he appeared a little like a Druid, with a long grey beard, and a unruly mane. Was I trespassing in his home? I apologised if I was being an imposition and asked if the castle was open. To my surprise, an offer to take me to see it was the reply.

Sean Ryan

As I turned out I was in his home. The gentleman I met was Sean Ryan, who along with his wife and children called Leap Castle home. I was quite startled to hear this, having only heard of the ghost stories of the house. Most people flee in the face of this. Not Sean Ryan.

Sean took me into the castle. The first thing that caught my eye was the rather intriguing knocker on the door. It suggest one enters at their peril. To my further surprise the room that followed was far more homely than I expected. Logs crackled in a large hearth to the left. The walls and tables were a ramshackle collection of memorabilia. They screamed life not death. This room was Sean’s family’s living room. With that Sean stirrer the wood in the hearth and took a seat by the fire, as he has done for the last 25 years.

We instantly sparked up a conversation. He asked me my interest in the place, and rather than blurt out about the castles infamous history I conservatively said I had read some stories online. With that Sean then took to telling me the castles history. Throughout my unusual visit, the subject of ghosts or spirits never came up, and all I have garnered about this has come from online sources, predominantly the castles own website.

The History of Leap Castle

Instead Sean spoke of the text book history. This bloody history alone is sufficient to conclude something isn’t quite right in the place. Imagine a poltergeist in a haunted house with a pet cemetery all built on a native burial ground. Now you’re on the right track! The castle was built by the O’Carroll’s in the 15th century. The O’Carroll’s were known as a viscous people, who wouldn’t let anyone stand in their way to get power. And so it would be for the time that they controlled the castle. They left a trail of blood and murder that is still felt to this day by the castles other inhabitants.

Their 150 years in charge were a turbulent one. John O’Carroll was the first prince of Ely. Over the years no fewer than seven of the O’Carroll’s were murdered for this title. Half of them in fact by other O’Carroll’s. Eventually they conceded the castle to the Darby’s in 1667. The Darby’s would live here until a faithful night in 1922 when the IRA would come calling to burn the castle interior. The Darby’s has reputedly being tough landlords, and the castle therefore represented a symbol of British rule.

The Ryan’s

Sean explained to me that he purchased the castle in 1991, and set out to fully renovate it. A complete shell at the time, all that was before me was from his own private collection, much of which was collected from around the world. Sean had spent his life as a traditional Irish musician which had took him to far flung places. A sculpture of a king stood out- it was the bow of a ship brought back from the Philippines. Amazing how it fit so well in the surroundings of an Irish Castle. Sean had added a conservatory overlooking the lands to the east, and it added a breath of fresh air to the otherwise musky surroundings.

The Many Ghosts of Leap Castle

Of course so far I’ve left out the bit so far about the ghosts. And there are oh so many. How many places can count 50 ghosts as their permanent residents? The Ryan’s and Mildred Darby (who lived here during the late 19th century) have kept a good account of this sightings. Mildred Darby was known to perform seances and it is believed this may have led to increased activity in the castle. Since it has allowed visitors there have been several sightings, and innumerate reports of people feeling a presence passing by them. To date it has featured on two TV shows, Ghost Adventures and Most Haunted, both looking to capture that unique atmosphere possessed within.

Haunted Chapel

The first is the priest. Two of the O’Carroll brothers once contested the right to be next chieftain. One day while one of them Thaddeus O’Carroll was saying mass in the chapel on the castles top floor, the other brother Teighe stormed in and murdered him on the altar. His ghost is still said to inhabit the chapel, or the spiral staircase below. There have been many reports of a bright light shining from the chapel, even after the castle had been burned.

Mildred Darby recounts a story of how as she woke one morning a stone cold hand grasped hers. Whatever it was then collapsed in an agonising string of prayers. She also wrote of how a blood stain in the floor couldn’t be washed away.

Red Lady of Leap Castle

Perhaps the most famous of all is the Red Lady. It was she that drew a number of supernatural and ghost hunting shows to the castle. A tall figure, emanating light, she is known to walk the corridors, in a red cape holding a dagger menacingly in her hand. Imprisoned and raped by one of the O’Carroll’s she was said to have given birth to a baby. The baby was murdered by the O’Carroll’s and in grief she soon after took her own life with the same dagger. A jarring cold is said to precede her appearance. Bring a coat just in case.

Priests House

The priests house which adjoins the castle was never refurbished since the Ryan’s moved in. It is an empty shell of what it once was. But in the day of the Darby’s a heavy shadow hung over the place. A peasant man pushing a barrel up a stairs is one of the apparitions. A monk, of unknown past is said to often pass through one window, before leaving through another. It was also said that those sleeping there, would often feel a heavy weight atop them. A weight that was said to have snored. Now that’s the stuff to give you nightmares.

The Captain

The third of the Darby’s to inhabit Leap Castle was a Captain Jonathon Darby. He was said to have buried the family treasure throughout the estate of the castle. However a charge of treason saw him imprisoned in Dublin. He escaped the sentence of being hung drawn and quartered and was released some years later, but the experience took its toll and he couldn’t recall where he had hidden the treasure. The secret was taken to the grave and beyond, as his ghost still searches for that lost treasure.

McMahon Clan

On several occasions while engaging in a battle the O’Carroll’s were said to hire men. Rather than pay them they would take them back to the castle and Murder them. Soldiers from the McMahon clan, another Irish tribe from Monaghan aided in a battle against the earl of Tyrone. As they slept at night after a celebration in the castle, they had their throats slit. These soldiers are said to haunt the castle Great Hall.

Emily and Charlotte

Emily and Charlotte were two little girls who lived here during the 1600s. Tragedy struck when Emily fell from the battlements of the castle. Many stories over the years recount seeing a girl falling from the battlements only to disappear before she hits the ground. The ghosts of the girls are often seen playing, laughing, and crying in the main hall, Sean Ryan’s family’s living room.

But wait, there’s more

I’ve been to castles with ghosts before but it seems Leap Castles’ list of ghosts is endless. A woman that was murdered in the castle is known to appear, scream and then disappear again. Then there’s the governess who was the minder of the aforementioned Emily and Charlotte. An old man, dressed in green is also commonly seen in the main hall, sometimes warming himself by the fire as Sean Ryan was during my visit. The old man is often accompanied by a woman in old fashioned dress and a large head-dress, and another old man dressed like a priest.

Oubliette

In the walls by the church an 8 foot deep hide was built, to store things or hideout during an attack. But the O’Carroll’s found their own sadistic use for it. It became an oubliette, which translates as “to forget” from French. They would throw their enemies into the hole, where horrifically the walls of the castle would become their permanent prison and final resting place. The O’Carroll’s would then simply forget about them.

In the 16th century 39 members of the O’Neill clan are said to have helped the O’Carroll’s in a battle, but had their throats cut at a celebratory feast in true family style. They were all thrown into the oubliette. When the Darby’s later renovated they took 3 cart loads of bones from the oubliette, suspected to be around 150 bodies. A ghost is said to still live in the Oubliette, as seen by Sean Ryan. It is also postulated that the moving of the bodies awoke a sinister spirit known as the Elemental.

The Elemental

The Elemental is an entity said to have been drawn to the house by the sheer number of incidents here. But there are other theories. The Wizard Earl of Kilkea Castle is one suspect, with the suspicion being that he put a curse on Leap castle. Others believed that the castle is built on an ancient druid site, where the dark arts were practiced.

The urban dictionary describes an elemental as “An apparition or entity that cannot be fully perceived is called an elemental or elemental ghost. Something that moves too fast for the human sensory range is perceived as a blur and cannot be seen clearly due to its rate exceeding the frequency where it will properly be perceived.”

Mildred Darby’s seances and occult practices may have led her to the discovery of the oubliette, and in addition the awakening of the Elemental. It was her that witnessed this dark spirit mostly, and is thus best described in her own words in a not too familiar publication nowadays, the “Occult Review”.

Mildred Darby and the Elemental

“Suddenly, two hands were laid on my shoulders. I turned round sharply and saw, as clearly as I see you now-a grey ‘Thing’, standing a couple of feet from me, with it’s bent arms raised as if it were cursing me. I cannot describe in words how utterly awful the ‘Thing’ was, it’s very indefinableness rendering the horrible shadow more gruesome. Human in shape, a little shorter than I am, I could just make out the shape of big black holes like great eyes and sharp features, but the whole figure-head, face, hands and all-was grey-unclean, blueish grey, something of the colour and appearance of common cotton wool. But, oh! so sinister, repulsive and devilish. “

“The thing was about the size of a sheep, thin, gaunt and shadowy in parts. It’s face was human, or to be more accurate, inhuman, in it’s vileness, with large holes of blackness for eyes, loose slobbery lips, and a thick saliva-dripping jaw, sloping back suddenly into its neck! Nose it had none, only spreading, cancerous cavities, the whole face being a uniform tint of grey.”

“It’s lustreless eyes, which seemed half decomposed, and looked incredibly foul, stared into mine, and the horrible smell which had before offended my nostrils, only a hundred times intensified, came up to my face, filling me with a deadly nausea. I noticed the lower half of the creature was indefinite and seemed semi-transparent-at least, I could see the framework of the door that led into the gallery through its body.“

Undoubtedly no spirit has had such a profound and disturbing affect by its appearance to people in the castle as the Elemental. The castles website tells a frightening story of the interactions with this entity too.

My own tour of the haunted Leap Castle

After Sean had brought me up to speed with the movements of the castle over the years, he subsequently invited me to explore the chapel on the top floor. We exchanged €6, the price Sean asks for the privilege to tour his home. Then came the moment I didn’t expect. Sean handed me a torch and beckoned to a door leading to a spiral staircase. Did this mean what I expected? I had to visit possibly the world’s most haunted castle…

I of course couldn’t let down my curious side. So on I went. Sean advised that the torch was necessary on the dark stairs just to navigate. Oh great. He also asked that when I was coming back if I could be sure to padlock the church door behind me. Which made me think and wonder. What was he looking to keep out exactly?

The spiral staircase was lit at the bottom but as it ascends the light thrown is less and less. A number of closed doors and unusual objects set the mind racing as one climbs. A loose stone step then caused my heart to skip a beat. I climb further now fully relying on the torch to show the way. Spooky is an understatement. Finally I reached the padlocked door of the chapel.

Entering the haunted chapel of Leap Castle

Drawing the bolt back the door creakily opened on to the church floor. I perhaps saw now why the door was padlocked. This floor is open to the elements, a step too far in Sean Ryan’s renovation so far. He tells me later that 2020 was to have been the year for that. Another victim of the year that was in it. For now though the chapel provides another fascinating side to this eerie place.

The chapel is but a shell of what it once was. The windows are without glass; one could easily step through and plummet to the ground far below. That strange thought crossed my mind, perhaps a psychological bi-product of the place I now stood. Staring back at the door I walked through, I sincerely hoped no one padlocked me in this creepy place of notorious history.

The chapel had a few more features that filled my mind with intrigue. One window overlooked the ruins of the priests house. It looked a particularly forlorn place with some crows circling above adding to that feeling. No monks crossed my field of vision though. To one shadowy side of the chapel a spiral staircase led downwards. There was no apparent destination and I dared not explore. On the other side lay a trap door, the presumed top of the famed oubliette. I took care to back away, it has claimed enough victims with the years.

My own personal “What was that?” experience

I returned downstairs, completely exhilarated by my experience (without any unearthly appearances), taking care to lock the chapel and all that it holds within, out and away from the Ryan family.

Back in the Main Hall came the moment I can’t explain though. As Sean and I spoke about the current predicament in Ireland, a noise resembling a voice suddenly interrupted our conversation. We both glanced in the direction but no one was visibly there. I turned back to Sean and he resumed the conversation as if nothing had happened.

Was this the reaction of a man too used to seeing and hearing the unexpected? Was there a rational explanation such as another family member being in the castle? Or had I too had an experience of the supernatural, as so many visitors and inhabitants before had done? I never asked Sean what it was. I’ve always been a good judge of character and emotion simply by watching the face of a person. And in Sean’s face I saw the tells that’s it was a question that was indeed best left unasked. And so it became another thing left unsaid. Shortly after I left, never to know…

Travel Insurance on the Halloween Trail

Thinking of visiting some of the haunted castles in Ireland? Then I can definitely recommend travel insurance. Stories of peoples hair turning pure white are uncorroborated, but it’s best to protect that beautiful mane of yours.

In all seriousness though, now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lockdowns are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and now protect domestic trips too.