Deep within the green wooded hills of Wicklow, Ireland there lies an attraction that has always perked my curiosity. Even the name Victor’s Way Indian Sculpture Park was enough to suggest an attraction not of the usual ilk. So with summer 2018 around us, and strangely for Ireland, summer it was indeed, we visited.
Wicklow is for me, as for a lot of those who call Dublin home, the perfect place to escape urban life, and the restrictions of the city. Within thirty minutes drive you find yourself surrounded by peaks that deceive about their height. Those mountains (mountain being a generous word, but mountains they are indeed called), are the perfect location for anyone seeking a little adventure, with enumerate hiking trails scattered the county, and the beast that is the Wicklow Way, all 127km of it, cutting through much of the scenic landscape. This is one I’ve yet to set my sights on.
As soon as the greys and concrete of the city disappear into view to be replaced by the iconic Irish sight of green fields and hills that run down to the sea, I am in my happy place. All the pressures of life are exfoliated. And yet for all the times I’ve wandered this way, the sculpture park did not fall into my agenda. Till July 2018, and another drive in those mountains, that is. After a lunch in the neighbouring town of Roundwood, that was a little on the side of too heavy, we ditched our plans to go hiking. Not to return to the city without endeavour, finally Victor would have his way.
Victor’s Way Indian Sculpture Park
Located near the beauty spot of the Guinness Lake (known for its ownership by the Guinness family, not for its black appearance) Victor’s Way Indian sculpture park is a privately owned enterprise. It sits in a valley on 20 acres, with a backdrop of the Great Sugar Loaf mountain, which is one of those aforementioned deceiving peaks. The park is the accumulation of 25 years work for its owner. Judging by the conversation we had, he has great time for the teachings of Buddhism and Hinduism, and has spent much time in India.
How to get to Victor’s Way Indian Sculpture Park
Victor’s Way is located 40 kilometres for Dublin. Take the N11 to Kilmacanoge, then the R755 for another ten kilometres, following signs for Roundwood and Glendalough. Just before Roundwood turn right onto the R759. Turn left after 1km on to the L1036, and you will find Victor’s Way on your left.
A path of some 2km cuts a swat through the park, passing open green fields, ponds, forests and a number of small lakes. It has the desired effect therefore of putting you at ease. I didn’t make much note of the flora and fauna, but it was ever so verdant. We saw enumerate butterflies and dragonflies dancing from plant to plant.
But neither the terrain nor the local wildlife is in focus. The parks raison d’etre is to take the visitor on a contemplation of life. This is done via a series of black granite sculptures, of which there are 7 major sculptures and 37 minor. The major sculptures here represent seven developmental stages of life. The statues were designed in nearby Roundwood before being completed in Mahabalipuram in Southern India. The largest concentration of statues of Ganesh outside of India are found here at Victors Way. So after parting with €5 to enter the park, what can you expect?
How Victor would have you visit
It is suggested to enter alone, without kids or animals. This is a park for adults, who are looking for contemplation. There are several locations within that encourage forest bathing. Forest Bathing, you ask? No you shouldn’t bring a towel. Forest bathing is immersing yourself in the holistic ambiance of the forest. It is a regeneration of the mind, body, and spirit, using the surroundings of the parks woods.
The entry to the Victor’s Way is an unusual opening, with two bosom ladies on either side. It is known as Victoria’s Gate and the opening represents the birth canal. Yes the birth canal in other words through which we come through and into this world. It’s the first journey we ever make in life, and at this point our world becomes so much bigger. Chances are if you are reading this you’ve spent a lot of time making it smaller. The birth canal here represents being born again and entering into the park, with all the worries of the world left behind on the other side.
Ganesh at Victor’s Way
Emerging in a wide open field it’s now that we set eyes on the many Ganesh. Most here are playing musical instruments, while one sits reading a copy of “Visual Basic”, familiarizing himself with modern computers. Ganesh is playful amongst the gods and is known to bring good fortune, while helping his followers to perfect happiness. He is seen as therefore as being modern and cool. There are come neat touches on the statues with small animals found on all. One Ganesh can be seen playing an uilean pipe (elbow played pipes from Ireland, similar to the bag pipes) and wearing a tweed cap, and has become known as Paddyganesh. The full group took the sculptor seven years to complete, and all stand two to three metres tall.
Cobra
Cobras are becoming a feature in my blogs. The Cobra seat here is in fact known as a wisdom seat, where anyone is free to sit. The emptiness of the seat suggests openness and limitlessness and while seated here you can create and awaken to any reality. Cobras of course nowadays are perceived as scary bringers of death, but in Egyptian time they symbolised the feminine principles of wisdom, fertility, healing and chaos. Thus from this comes an unlimited creative potential, and the thinking behind the wisdom seat.
Awakening
The first sculpture of the six stages of life is awakening. It is the moment of birth as the blind infant enters the world. The infant emerges in innocence, awe, fear and unknowing and in conclusion its blind state symbolises this. The rotten claw is the past, the hold that once was held on infant. It is in summary about to be released from its clutches.
Separation
Separation is symbolic of the struggle for both mother and child. It is both painful and joyous for both, as after nine months being as one, they must seek a life somewhat separate. For me this was one of the more disturbing sculptures, the mother’s face is etched with agony, as she looks to stop the child from nursing. It’s some startling imagery that’s sure. The animal or instinctive side of the mother is seen pulling and holding the child close, while the human side pushes him away, knowing he must now seek independence.
The representation is actually Lord Krishna as a toddler sucking milk of the demon Putna, who was sent by his maternal uncle Kansha to kill him. The demon came disguised as a beautiful woman, and tried feeding him poisonous milk to kill him. Krishna sucked out all the milk, and Putna was left screaming and writhing in agony.
Split man
But the prize for most disturbing sculpture at Victors Way must go to Split Man. It is however a wonderful piece of art in my book. I’m a little in the dark about the full extent of its meaning, but here goes. The split man represents humans at an age around thirty, and represents the mental state of the dysfunctional. He is unable or willing to dedicate his life to one goal, one which may bring him happiness, and as a result descends into unhappiness and depression. This split soul is metaphorical here as Split Man in agony therefore rips himself in two. His face tells his agonising story. Astonishing imagery.
The Fasting Buddha – Dark Night of the Soul
This rather interesting Buddha is a replica of the 1st century Bodhisattva, produced in Pakistan and which is now sitting in the Lahore Museum. The Buddha is unusual in that it is un-Buddha like, with many Roman influences. The robes, beard and look for instance are Roman. The fasting Buddha is a continuation of the Split Man, where the choices continue to eat him up inside. He gets to the darkest point, and after that seeks spiritual help. It comes in the teachings of Buddha, through deep meditation, and finally enlightenment.
The Ferrymans End at Victors Way
The Ferryman lies submerged in algae covered waters, reaching towards the land. His role of bringing souls from death to life is obsolete and he remains there reaching for the shore. However the land remains unreachable and eventually he will die where he stands. The ferryman symbolises the individual who has lost touch with reality, and is therefore reaching for the unattainable. It is in essence about a mid-life crisis when what has come before seems worthless and a new direction is sought. Only when a new meaningfulness is achieved will that shore be reached. I can relate to this as I’m on my third midlife crisis.
Lord Shiva
The gardens leave the forest behind and emerge at a lake side. These are Victors Way gardens most picturesque and peaceful areas, with the skies above reflected in the gentle calming waters. A lovely boat lay marooned in the middle of one lake while in the other Lord Shiva takes centre place. Shiva is one of the main Hindi Gods, and represents the maturing adult. He is driven to live life to the fullest, to above all make the most of every minute, knowing that life is in decline. Whatever the message the sight of the sculpture sitting in the water is an impressive one, throwing off beautiful reflections in the sunlight.
The Finger
The finger is an icon for the basic thrust of life, to create. If we don’t create it postulates that we will be unhappy. To create is to become. That’s why etched on the fingernail are the words “Create or Die”. It’s meaning transcends more than just procreation to every aspects of life, above all it is the need to create, and therefore reduce our sameness to everyone else. Creativity begins in each of our fingers. I concur I’m here typing this blog with my fingers, looking to better myself creatively.
Eve
Leaving the lakes behind we arrive back to the other side of the open field, and a number of sculptures. The first up is Eve. Eve here is not represented as in the bible, where temptation got the better, but rather as referenced by ancient Hebrew texts. There she is life bringing, wise, loving and bettering herself through the acquiring of knowledge. In the texts Eve is the mother of life, and Adam was a lowly field worker, with the only role being to provide for the far smarter and more creative Eve. Needless to say many readers will agree with that. Feminism was alive and well in ancient times. The sculpture is again a semi-nude.
Nirvana Man and Others at Victor’s Way
Nirvana Man is a sculpture who has attained inner peace and happiness and has reached Nirvana. He has attained his goal and been self realised. He just looks happy, chilling there. It’s the ideal way to end a tour of the park, after a voyage of torment through the other sculptures. We have seen the experiences that life can bring, but not where can it end up? Is there something to be read into the fact, that most of the tormented statues are men, before we finally end up with Eve, and the conclusion of how women will provide the wisdom and creativity to be the dominant sex.
At this point we find the Nirvana Man, happy with his lot and without a care in the world. Is this the intended way of the world? Or did I just walk around Victors Way park the wrong way? Irregardless it was a fantastic park to traverse, and a wonderful insight into deep philosophical thinking.
Opening Hours
Victor’s Way Sculpture Garden is a gem which is tucked away in one of Ireland’s most beautiful counties. If you find yourself driving through this phenomenal area, i implore you to take the time to stop. Bear in mind, the sculpture garden only opens through the summer months between 12 and 6 though. I used the gardens website regularly throughout this blog, and you can visit it at victorsway.eu.
To appreciate another form of art, join me on a journey through the street art of Dublin.
I would be delighted if you would like, comment or share.
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33 responses
What an interesting place. Have to give this a look one day. Thanks for sharing John. Allan
Cheers Allan. It was an intriguing one. Definitely off the beaten track. Thank you.
Very interesting with, well, sometimes a hint of weirdness 🙂 I would like to go and see it one day.
Yes it certainly weird but a lovely place. Sort of hard to get out of your mind. Thought provoking and well worth a visit
Interesting! Thanks for sharing your experience. 🙂
Thank you Lynette. Bit of a random post I know but I really enjoyed the place. Thanks for commenting
Wow, so I like art just as much as the next person but usually it doesn’t make me feel so shocked. The split man, fasting Buddha and the ferry mans end are the most startling. I also really like that this place is more for people seeking peace. Hadn’t previously heard of the term “forest bathing” but it makes it sound so relaxing and peaceful.
Forest bathing was a new one on me too. I think I lack the spirituality to appreciate something like that, but the park and sculptures were fantastic. There was so much emotion etched on the statues, and like you said they provoke an emotional response. Great place. Put it on your future Irish itinerary.
This place is amazing! I had no idea something like this existed, but now that I know, I kind of want to book a ticket to Ireland immediately! I’m also sad I didn’t know this place was there when I WAS in Dublin 🙁
I’m not gonna lie, being a bit of a weirdo, I think my favourite is the Split Man. He’s terrifying, but captivating. I actually think Separation is the most horrifying! The Finger is also intriguing. I think all the Ganesha statues are beautiful, though.
Can’t wait to see more of your Dublin pieces.
It’s so off the beaten track I think nobody knows of it. I like reading maps (I know don’t say it) and that’s how I found it. I think the owner doesn’t want it to be busy, as it would ruin the peacefulness.
Im with you on Split man I was enthralled. I circled around and round and took lots of photos. Separation is scary, between the mothers anguish and the strange serpent limbs.
Did you see the mummies in St Michans in Dublin and the bog people? I’m going to factor those into future blogs. Strange I struggle to get around to writing about Dublin, but I have lots of plans for this year.
Thanks for reading and commenting.
John
Hey, I love a good map, too!
I kind of agree with the owner. Parks are better when they’re not overrun. And this seems like the kind of place that could get really busy if people were more aware of it’s existence!
I did see the mummies, but not the bog people!! Unfortunately I was with a friend and his family, and didn’t get to explore much of what would have interested me! Definitely want to read about this!
I think you are on to the owners train of thought. He doesn’t want kids there, or even couples really. I think he more built the place for himself.
Ah yes people can be such a hindrance when you want to see somewhere. Hopefully I can give you some more inspiration for your next visit when I get that blog of mine together. Thanks again.
I never heard of this place. As an Indiaphile and frequent visitor i find this fascinating. Thanks for the great pix
kenneth
A reason to take a short range trip next time instead of a long one. It was a truly fascinating place and his lingered in the memory since I was there. Thank you Kenneth
This place is so cool! I didn’t know about it when we went through Wicklow two years ago, but would love to stop on a future trip.
It’s one of those secretive places that is unknown to most. I think it even closed for a few years because it started to get busy. Thanks for dropping by. I have to catch up on your last two blogs but I will.
Thanks so much for sharing! Thoroughly enjoyed the article! Beautifully written! What a unique place to contemplate about life! The sculptures are stunning. Split man and the Ferryman are disturbingly cool!
Thank you for reading and the kind compliments. It is quite the interesting place. I love that it’s taken him 25 years to complete and was a passion project. The sculptures are out of this world. Cheers again.
Not what I’d expect to find in Ireland. I agree with you, Separation and split Man are quite disturbing, and take some time to comprehend.
It certainly is not. The whole place is mostly metaphorical but when you understand the disturbing aspect makes sense. That said it’s a very relaxing place to walk through, and enjoy the art. Thanks for commenting
Wicklow was one of many places that I wish we had time to explore in Ireland. I love these sculptures, and I had no idea that cobras–in some cultures–were symbols of fertility. Now that I read your spilt man description here, I’m a little more concerned about your IG comment…hmmmm….hmmmm…. Definitely not me. I also think it’s interesting to see Ganesh among these sculptures. Seems out of place? I love Ganesh and South Asian religions, myths, and tales, though. Thanks for the great post with awesome pics!
Thanks Christine. I adore Wicklow. It’s a shame you couldn’t make it there. The sculpture park was an unexpected gem there. I agree it’s a little random but I think I see where the owner was coming from. He’s had a long running love with those Asian teachings. The cobra was a surprising one for me too. That perception has long since faded.
I may have gone a bit off on my instagram comment but sure isn’t that instagram. It’s all a little off. Thanks for taking the time to read.
Certainly is weird and wonderful. Thanks for sharing these images and their explanations.
It is. Was one of my favourite places to visit in Ireland last year. Thanks for reading
One day when I’m able to I will use all this great information whilst travelling around Ireland (:
That is awesome 🙂
Thanks. Pretty immense place. Such wonderful sculpting. Thanks for commenting
We love weird places like this! There’s a cool park with mythological sculptures in Singapore too – it’s called Haw Par Villa. Your post reminded us of that trip. Hope to visit Ireland some day soon!
That park in Singapore sounds like one to add to the list. I loved this place so much startling imagery set against such a calming backdrop. You will have to get to Ireland, it’s beautiful. Thanks for reading
Loved this article written wonderfully..i would like ti add one more information here though and it is about the mother and child separation you wrote..it is actually lord krishna as a toddler sucking milk of the demon putna, who was sent by his maternal uncle kansha to kill him. Putna came in disguise of a beautiful lady n tried feeding him with poisonous milk but lord krishna instead sucked out all the milk n hence she is screaming here in agony..
I didn’t discover this when I was doing my research. Thank you. I will editing to include this. Suddenly it all makes a lot more sense. I always wondered why such agony. I’m delighted you enjoyed the blog, I learned quite a lot from writing it myself.