It probably goes without saying that much of 2021 will be spent in search of outdoor pursuits. So it’s with that in mind that we have put together this list for you, to inspire your summer.

Tourism Industries

If the tourism industry is to recover from this catastrophic shock, we must first help regain the confidence of our local markets. Coming from Ireland where 6% of our GDP comes from Tourism, that’s a major shortfall in our economy. Needless to say, it’s not just the Irish economy, the whole world right now is suffering.

A staycation doesn’t need to mean a week in a local resort or tourist centre. It can be as simple as staying at home and visiting some local attractions. Coming up are my top suggestions and the best places for a staycation.

Best staycation Ireland ideas with kids

Naturally, with kids in tow, you are going to have to think of all the variables. Of course, the ideal trip will be days on the beach and good dining options at night, with some adventure thrown in for good measure. However, Ireland isn’t Spain or Portugal and isn’t likely to play ball all the time (most of the time). So you need a staycation destination that’s going to give you options for those rainy and cold days, or when those inconvenient storms roll in. As a father of an eleven-year old, I can relate to the frustrations of summer in Ireland. These are my best suggestions for all-weather family vacations in Ireland.

A Cycling holiday on one of Ireland greenways

Ireland has been slowly adding to its cycling greenways (a little too slowly for some), but there are now about ten available in different parts of the country. They vary greatly in length but are the perfect outdoor activity for families. Most utilise now-defunct sections of the complex Irish rail network which once covered the island. As rail travel went into decline, many sections were left to nature. They are now slowly being restored and provide a great vantage point of the Irish countryside. The other advantage is the safety of taking the kids on a cycle route that is free of traffic and other dangers.

Notable greenways include those on the Royal and Grand Canal which run from Dublin down through Ireland’s midlands, the Waterford Greenway which travels from Waterford to Dungarvan, the Boyne valley greenway, and the scenic Great Western Greenway, which passes the astonishing Clew Bay on its way to Achill Island. For more, this article by aroundireland.ie on Ireland’s best greenways trails, is a good resource.

River cruise on the Shannon

From greenways to waterways, it’s possible that there’s no better time to consider a river cruise. There’s the natural social distancing of the waterways. River cruising requires no licenses or experience of having operated a boat before. The barges are slow-moving and safe, making them perfect for captains and navigators of all ages. Better still the family dog can even be taken along.

The main locations for boat rentals are Carrick on Shannon and Banagher. River cruises generally operate on a one or two-week basis, which gives plenty of time to see much of the Shannon, from Lough Erne in Fermanagh and down as far as Lough Derg in County Clare. Between, the towns of Carrick on Shannon and Athlone are popular stopping-off points, as well as the attractions at Clonmacnoise, Lough Key Forest Park, and Birr Castle. The Shannon is also the perfect river for a wide variety of water sports guaranteed to keep everyone entertained. Along the way is Baysports in Hudson Bay too, Ireland’s largest outdoor inflatable water park.

Stay at an all inclusive Family Resort

There are countless family friendly hotel resorts around Ireland offering excellent packages, which means you barely need to leave the confines of the hotel. Most offer swimming pools and walks, with many offering activities such as archery, mini-golf, pony riding, go-karting, tennis courts, football pitches and so much more. Coastal hotels near Sligo and Donegal also offer surfing lessons during the summer. The most popular are CastleMartyr, Kellys Resort, and Delphi Adventure Resort, but you’ll find an excellent list in this Irish Independent article.

Spend a week in Center Parcs Longford Forest

Of course, none of the hotels above can compete with Center Parcs in terms of activities. Its 466 lodges will be very popular during the summer of 2021, and with hundreds of indoor and outdoor activities available, no one will ever be bored. There’s a spa and lots of restaurants catering for the adults, so they can be included in that too. Book now at Center Parcs.

Visit some of Ireland’s best family attractions

Of course, not all of Ireland’s attractions are contained within the grounds of hotels. Across the country, you’ll find zoos, wildlife parks, amusement parks, activity centres, waterparks, ziplining or whatever takes your fancy. Spend a day in Tayto Park, Ireland’s largest amusement park. Learn surfing at Lahinch in Clare. Conquer your fears on the high ropes at Zipit. Say arrrr at the Pirates Adventure Park in Westport House. Learn kayaking or canoeing in Longford, Carlow, Waterford, or in the Carlingford Adventure Centre. Ski without snow at Kilternan in Dublin, or take to the water slides in Tramore, Blanchardstown, Drogheda, Salthill, Athlone, or Bundoran.

Go camping or glamping

Can’t face the prospect of another night looking at four walls? Then why not go camping or glamping. With summer coming you will have a chance to soak up the great outdoors, get some fresh air, have a cheap staycation, and still respect your own personal self-isolation rules. There are numerous camping and glamping Ireland sites to be found in the most idyllic of locations. Looking for one near you? Have a read of this great guide to glamping sites in Ireland from The Irish Road Trip. Alternatively, you can try a bit of wild camping. And mind the bull.

Best staycation Ireland ideas for adults

Take a spa break in one of Ireland’s hotels.

After all, that time cooped up at home may be the last thing you will want is to be cooped up in a hotel. But it might be just the tonic. Throw in the prospect of a spa, a nice comfy king bed, the 18 hole golf courses, amazing food, together with all the social and interesting activities that the best hotels in Ireland have on offer.

Sick and tired of looking at your kitchen, but don’t fancy an evening in a restaurant? The call room service and dine in the luxury of your room. Personally, I’ve always balked at the price of Ireland’s castle hotels, but with the loss of foreign visitors, their prices have become within reach. Now might be the time to knock on the door of Dromoland Castle or Ashford Castle. Alternatively, why not take a look at the exclusive resorts near you.

City breaks

Perhaps you’ve spent all year in your own little rural corner of the country, and can’t wait to get back to the vibrance of the city. The good news is some of the best parts of those cities will be reopening very soon (forgetting the pubs for a minute). From May 10th galleries, cultural attractions and museums are open. Time to expand that knowledge. From May 17th, all retail will be reopened, so maybe a week of retail therapy is what is needed. Of course, hotels will follow from early June, and pubs and restaurants will be serving outdoors from the 7th, so the set will be complete for a great weekend or week away.

Dublin

Like it or hate it, Dublin is not short of a few things to do. From a huge selection of museums and galleries, to city centre tourist attractions such as St Patrick’s Cathedral, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublin Castle, the Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainham Gaol and the GPO, it’s a great place to get in touch with Irish history. That’s without mentioning the incredible variety in its countless restaurants and bars. Personally, I prefer exploring its quaint villages such as Dalkey and Howth. For more on what I love about Dublin, see the section on being a tourist in your own backyard below.

Galway

We all know Galway. Though it won’t be the same this year without the roar of spectators at the Galway races, it’s still a super fun city. Often coined as the gateway to the west, Galway the is perfect base for exploring Mayo, Clare, or Galway counties too, before returning to sample its evening delights. Salthill is a charming old seaside scene that’s great to stay in. But of course, if you want more of the city, stay closer to the centre and explore its cathedral, Latin quarter and great craft industries.

Belfast

Belfast is a completely different proposition to Dublin and Galway. The 20th century had the greatest impact on its history, with the Titanic and The Troubles leaving a huge impression on life there. Both form two of its most visited places now, via a walking tour of the Titanic exhibition or via a Black Taxi tour of its peace walls and political murals. Belfast’s pubs are already open now and life is moving faster towards normal there, due to their faster vaccination policy. Perhaps now’s the time to consider Belfast.

The Best Road trips in Ireland

Of course, road trips are good at any time but it might just be the perfect idea for a staycation now. Pack up a lunch for that remote picnic and let the road take you and your family in its direction. You don’t even need a destination, just get onto a secondary road, and let it surprise you. Of course, every country has its famed road trips and maybe you feel like finally tackling that one on your bucket list that you haven’t.

Sometimes the road trip that you come up with yourself is often better than the waymarked route. The road less travelled brings far greater reward. Personally, I prefer to get lost in the gentle mountains of Wicklow, my happy place just a short distance from Dublin. Wherever yours is, stay safe in these times.

Wild Atlantic Way

The Biggie. 2500 kilometres along the whole Atlantic Coast of Ireland from Cork to Donegal. Top of the Irish bucket list. It’s questionable if you would want to do it all in one go, and it’s something you really need the time for. But if it’s a commodity you have, then the longest marked coastal drive in the world might just be the best travel memory you can make this year. All along the route, there are excellent towns to spend the night in Kinsale, Kenmare, Dingle, Tralee, Kilkee, Lahinch, Galway, Clifden, Westport, Sligo, and Bundoran. You really are spoiled for choice. That’s before I mention the west coast sights of Slieve League, Achill, Connemara, The Burren, Cliffs of Moher, and Skellig Michael; I could go on and on. Give it a minimum of two weeks, but ideally three to visit the full Wild Atlantic Way.

Donegal

What most tend to do of course is split the Wild Atlantic Way into sections and explore county by county. Your own author included. Donegal, Ireland’s fourth-largest county and one of its wildest is a perfect one to start it. From the windswept Malin Head (Ireland’s most northerly point) down through the Glenveagh National Park, and to the huge sea cliffs at Slieve League, it really lives up to that billing. Offshore Tory Island is a unique self-imposed kingdom, which till recently was ruled by a king. The Atlantic waters here are Ireland’s surfing capital, with the town of Bundoran an advised base for this. With such a huge coastline Donegal has excellent beaches, and Ballymastocker bay is one of the world’s finest. In Harvey’s Point and Lough Eske Castle, Donegal has some of the countries best hotels too.

Mayo

While Mayo is often overlooked as a county where only Stags and Hens end up for one last wild weekend, it’s so much more than that. It is another large county with a great sprinkling of interesting places in it. In the north, there’s the Dun Briste stack, one of Mother Nature’s finest pieces of sculpting in Ireland. Nearby are the Ceide Fields, the oldest known system of fields in the world. Trust Ireland to have the oldest fields. Just off the coast is the island of Achill, where you must see Keem Bay, one of the world’s finest beaches. Further south is Croagh Patrick, Ireland’s holy mountain, views of Clew Bay, and the wild valley of Doolough. It’s a county made for a road trip.

Connemara

With much of its main roads following the Wild Atlantic way, it should come as little surprise that I highly recommend to road trip Connemara. It’s the kind of place you can easily spend a week, there’s that much to see and do. Outdoors is the name of the game here, from the water sports in Clifden Bay to the hiking in the Connemara National Park. It’s best seen of course by car, where you can stop and appreciate its scenery. Don’t miss the Sky Road too, it’s the shortest loop on the route, but the vista at its summit will astound. Families will love Clifden as a base, with its beaches and many water-based activities.

County Clare

One of our favourite counties in Ireland here at CarpeDiemEire, Clare is a road trip paradise. From the wide-open plains of the Burren, to possibly the best coastline in the country, you will really want to stop everywhere and admire the views. That coast has the Cliffs of Moher in its repertoire, one of Ireland’s must-do’s. But the villages and towns that dot the long oceanfront such as Kilkee, Lahinch, and the impeccably cute Doolin are great stops too. Doolin is a perfect springboard to the Aran Islands, with regular sailings. Inland there’s a lot of history in this county, in the castles of Dromoland, Leamaneh, Dysert O’Dea, and Bunratty.

County Kerry

Kerry is a county that’s perfect for a break any time of year. It has the hotels, it has the sights, and it definitely has the road trips. Undoubtedly its top of the Irish staycation spots.

The Ring of Kerry is a classic, a 179 km route through some of Ireland’s best scenery. Perhaps best seen over four days, this is my two-day Ring of Kerry itinerary to visit Killarney, the Killarney National Park, and to drive the route.

Dingle is one of Ireland’s liveliest towns, with a roaring nightlife year-round. While the Dingle Peninsula is small, a road trip taking in Connors Pass and the Slea Head drive will take your breath away. There are innumerate things to do in Dingle for visitors of all ages. If you haven’t been then now is surely the year.

Causeway Coastal Route

The Antrim Coast and Causeway Coastal Route of Northern Ireland is one of the most aesthetic routes in the whole country. Packed with sea views and some powerhouse sights, it’s the perfect escape for a few days. Along the way, you’ll pass Dunluce Castle, Carrick-a-Rede bridge, and of course the Giants Causeway. This is our suggested Causeway Coastal Route Itinerary, travelling from Belfast up the Antrim Coast. GOT fans will be able to combine the trip with some of the show’s famous filming locations. It’s an exciting part of the country.

Haunted and unusual Ireland

Looking for something a little bit off the usual track in Ireland? Then let me suggest taking in some of its most haunted and unusual locations. Most castles and old houses in Ireland have some tale of haunting attached to them, with most coming from a time when superstition was widespread. They are scattered all over the country and all having a unique history, often influenced by a tumultuous past. Better still you can spend the night in some of these, and test your mettle. Will you see the Wizard Earl come riding into Kilkea Castle? Or experience the Elemental in Leap Castle? These are just some of the ghosts of the 25 most haunted places in Ireland.

Some of Ireland’s gardens have a strong connection to its past. Brigit’s Gardens in Galway explore the Celtic Seasons. The Hill of Uisneach and Dun na Si Heritage Park also presents an unusual vision of our past. Near the famed Guinness lake in County Wicklow is a garden with a real difference. Victor’s Indian Way Sculpture Garden is an amazing place for adults to reflect and enter into the spiritual vision of its owner.

Be a Tourist in your own backyard

I’ve called Dublin home for the last 24 years, and yet there is so much I still haven’t seen and done in the city. I am constantly pushing myself to be a tourist in my own backyard. It’s the first place we should look for things to do, and yet is often the place we neglect the most. It may be a major tourist attraction that you thought you will get around to one day. This is that one day. Perhaps there is a museum that you didn’t think was your thing. I personally always put off visiting attractions in Dublin such as Dublin Castle and Trinity College until recently.

Sometimes all you need is a change of scenery. If you live in a city maybe there’s a fashionable neighbourhood that you haven’t been to ever or in a long time. Or a town within easy travelling distance that you have heard good things about. If there is, I’ll bet that it’s famed for a reason, perhaps it has interesting attractions, and more than likely it has a good culinary scene.

Dublin has some great attractions in Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Epic Museum, Kilmainham Gaol, and Christchurch Cathedral, which all bring different parts of Irish history to life. In its suburbs, Howth, Dalkey, Malahide, and Dun Laoghaire offer the visitor a unique city experience, with great culinary scenes, and a mix of harbours, hiking, and coastal experiences.

Fill your year with day trips

Gardens

Ireland’s gardens are the perfect day trips to fill your year with and stretch your legs. There’s no better place to social distance in the country, as open green spaces are our specialty. With the garden county (Wicklow) at Dublin’s door, its gardens such as Powerscourt, Kilruddery, and Mount Usher are the ideal day trip from the city. But gardens are found throughout the entire island, and even off the island in the case of Garnish Island in West Cork. Visiting during the different seasons also brings a different perspective to them.

Street art tours

With each year that passes our streets are becoming more and more like a canvas. Street artists the world over are adding murals and politically and socially motivated messages. It’s a great way to reintegrate back into life on the streets, without visiting crowded shopping streets. I for one will be avoiding those. Ireland has seen major growth in this art form over the last number of years, with urban centres such as Limerick, Dublin, Derry, Longford and Drogheda at the fore. Waterford and its Waterford Walls festival lead the way though. I have spent much time recently exploring the art on the streets of Dublin, and it’s amazing how much you can find with some exploration.

Take a Hiking Break

Hiking is an adventure activity that was made for social distancing. Travel to a remote part of the country, strap on some boots, and get lost on one of the many trails. Figuratively of course. The isolation is perfect for our dilemma. That said since the advent of social distancing many people have turned to hiking so it’s necessary to be inventive with your choice. Glendalough (pictured below) in Ireland is overrun with people as one of its most famed trails. So there is a responsibility to keep away from people even in rural areas. Looking for inspiration- download alltrails.com app and get off the beaten track. Of course, you could aim for one of the best 15 hikes in Ireland, a recent article here on CarpeDiemEire.

Don’t Forget to Support Local Businesses

This is perhaps the most important of all points of this blog, in terms of your own welfare and that of your fellow country people. As we recover from this unprecedented emergency that is afflicting us, there will be a considerable degree of recovery that we will need to undergo. It begins with us. Those local cafes and restaurants will be at breaking point. Holiday home and Hotels have been severely impacted. Tour buses and private tours are at a standstill. All of the above face possible closure and the job losses are unthinkable. Restaurants will have to observe the outdoor dining rule for the immediate future, so a safe environment will be presented to customers.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

It shall be a testing year ahead and we all are duty-bound to halt the progress of this terrible virus. But we can still appreciate some of what life has to offer in the months ahead. It’s only with all of our help that we can aid our economic recovery. Whether it’s to discover something new or save our favourites, start with an Ireland staycation to get back into that travelling frame of mind.

Have you a favourite way to staycation Ireland? Let me know in the comments below.

Photos of Lauterbrunnen fill social media sites for many years now. You might easily think it’s the creation of talented users of Photoshop. Could a valley exist where 72 waterfalls come crashing down to the valley floor?

Well as we know it most certainly does. Lauterbrunnen translates simply to “Many Springs”. The Lauterbrunnen Valley Switzerland is the worlds deepest glacial valley, formed eons ago. The walls are some 200 meters high, sloping in at near perfect straight lines upwards. It’s these straight line valley walls that create the waterfalls; the rivers above, unable to find a different route, come cascading down to the valley, before turning to near mist by the bottom, due to the height of the drop. And does it ever make for a wonderful sight.

How to get to Lauterbrunnen

Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen

The town of Lauterbrunnen in the Jungfrau region is easily reached from Interlaken, that imaginatively entitled town that sits between two lakes, the Brienzersee and Thunersee. It is well serviced by the train line that runs there, route R taking only 20 minutes, that leads you to such beauty. If you plan on taking trains a lot in Switzerland it is advisable to invest in a Swiss Travel Pass. You have two options in this area, the Swiss Rail Pass, which services the whole country, or the Jungfrau Rail Pass which is more localized to the area. The latter is slightly cheaper and more specialized to the Jungfrau. Either way it will cost you a kidney, but when you start amassing rail journeys, you will appreciate the savings.

Alternatively the road that travels from Interlaken is a particularly scenic way of getting to Lauterbrunnen. Lauterbrunnen can be reached in by road in circa 20 minutes.

Basel to Interlaken

The nearest airport to Interlaken is the EuroAirport at Basel. This airport serves three countries. To connect via train is not without its complications. It’s best to grab an Uber or Bus 50 to Basel SBB Railway Station. From there you can make your Swiss Pass work with the train IC61 to Interlaken OST. Switch here for train R to Lauterbrunnen. The journey takes around three hours with the changes.

Driving from Basel is significantly easier with the 157 km route taking less than two hours, It travels through Swiss cheese country, a rolling countryside, dotted with perfect villages. There is an optional stop in the Swiss capital Bern on the way. In Lauterbrunnen there is paid parking next to the train station, or alternatively there is a cheaper parking lot at Evang-ref for 1 franc per hour.

Our Journey to Lauterbrunnen

Our Swiss adventure began in the beautiful capital city of Bern. We were road tripping around Switzerland and the driving route was surprisingly easy, only taking 20 minutes to reach from Interlaken. If you are planning to visit these cities, you may these blog post on them useful, as well as my guide on budgeting in Switzerland.

Things to do in Interlaken

Bern Switzerland points of interest

Tthings to do in Grindelwald

Travelling to Switzerland on a budget

The valley deepens and deepens as you approach, with some of the sheer walls very impressive. The snow capped high peaks of the Alps form a constant beautiful backdrop. Through the valley powers the Lütschine River, a glacial powerhouse fed from the water of 72 waterfalls and so many other sources. It’s not the turquoise colour of the lakes before but it has an attractive hue. The approach is in essence stunning. But it’s not a patch on what lies beyond.

Where to Stay in Lauterbrunnen

To really enjoy the full pleasures of Lauterbrunnen, it’s best to stay a couple of nights in the town. Accomodation options vary, with a selection of chalet like hotels. There are no particularly high end hotels here, as in Interlaken, but there are a few mid to low range choices. Hotel Staubbach, Hotel Steinbock and Hotel Silberhorn all offer rooms around the €200 mark. On the lower end Hotel Horner and the Valley Hostel offer rooms under €100. If you prefer to sleep with the stars over your head, a great budget option is Camping Jungfrau near Stechelberg. All hotels provide car parking for those road tripping.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Top Things to do in Lauterbrunnen

Walk Through Lauterbrunnen Village

As you approach the valley opens and the village appears. One of the first buildings will be the train station, and all Lauterbrunnen journey’s begin here. From here the towns Main Street bypasses restaurants and shops all vying for the tourist buck, and from our experience charging excessively for the pleasure too. The buildings are the perfect Swiss Chalets you could only ever have dreamed of up until this point. An impossible mix of wood and stone, each are adorned with multiple colours and varieties of flowers.

The main sight of the buildings of Lauterbrunnen Village is its quaint church. It mainly provides a wonderful foreground to photos, however its worth a ramble inside for its stain glass windows and to see its old bell which is on display.

For a small village Lauterbrunnen has quite a few cafes and restaurants. Of these the two in hotels, Oberland and Steinbock are rated highly. For less formal surroundings Airtime Café and Flavours Café provide lunch options. Personally my favourite way to eat lunch in Switzerland was a quick meal on the move, and the bakery at Stefan von Allmen & Co is perfect for this.

Stand in Awe of Staubbach Falls

The waterfalls are what draw you here and awaited you. We used the car park, not far from the church, which stood in the shadow of the valleys main attraction. The Staubbach Falls appear as if they are in the town, or a feature of someone’s garden. They aren’t of course, as you approach, the houses stop and the falls can be seen to drop safely in a field, before calming into a river below. That doesn’t detract from it, and it is of course the most photographed and gazed upon sight in Lauterbrunnen. The challenge is in finding the right angle, and the right location to take that iconic shot. I didn’t find mine on first visit, but luckily we would return to the town again before the end of our Swiss Adventures.

The Staubbach Falls drop 270 metres from the high wall above, making it one of Europe’s highest vertical waterfalls.

So now that you’ve seen Lauterbrunnens main attraction is there much of a point of continuing on out into the open valley.

You bet there is.

Whilst the Staubbach Falls are superior, I found the smaller ones that cascaded down at regular intervals more attractive. Maybe it was the lack of people swarms surrounding them, or the fresh Swiss air in my lungs, but a visit to Lauterbrunnen should only begin in the village.

Do the Lauterbrunnen Valley Hike

The hike thorough the valley floor is easily followed and easily navigated. A paved path takes you down past several more falls, and at all time those enormous valley walls surround you, with the valley barely a kilometre wide for most of the walk. For me many of my favourite images come from this walk. The hike from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg is 5km out and with such flat terrain should take you less than an hour, provided you aren’t too distracted by the beauty around you. Easier said than done.

Marvel at the Lauterbrunnen waterfalls

What happens when nature puts 72 waterfalls in a valley? They are everywhere, that’s what happens. So naturally I stopped constantly to take photos.

Gaze at the general valley scenery

The valley is a true wonder of the world. Its extraordinarily beautiful and with every landscape change as I walked the views astounded me more and more. The Lauterbrunnen valley is a classic U-shaped valley formed during the last ice age, by a glacier, natures best sculptor.

Meet the local farm life

One thing I always associated with mountain life in Switzerland is its cows. Swiss cows are not only an iconic sight around here but also an iconic sound. The cows wear a bell and when they move the sound fills the air. The bells have their practical use too, used as a means of scaring off predators.

See the Farms & Houses of Lauterbrunnen

The farm buildings that litter the valley provide such a contrast to their surroundings. My first thoughts were that this seems such an extraordinary place to live, but the landslide shelters found throughout the area prove that even heaven on earth is fraught with dangers. It didn’t take away from the beauty of the buildings on that given day in June though.

Trummelbach Falls- Lauterbrunnens waterfall hike

One of Lauterbrunnen’s coolest features is the waterfall inside the mountain. Located some 3km from Lauterbrunnen village, you can also drive here if you have wheels, and there is ample parking outside. Swiss engineering triumphs again here. The Trummelbachfalle are a series of chutes and waterfalls within the mountain. So if they are in the mountain, how do you get to visit? That’s where the Swiss come in. A funicular runs straight up inside a man made tunnel in the mountain (that triumph I spoke of) which puts you right in the middle of the ten waterfalls of the Trümmelbach falls. At 5 Swiss Francs its certainly worth the admission.

From here a series of walkways, tunnels and stairs take you higher to some of the waterfalls and lower to the other half. The waterfalls are all glacier fed, and they roar through the mountain with incredible power. It really is a sight to behold. Though it is certainly not a place for anyone who has mobility restrictions. There are hundreds and hundreds of steps. I came just as the place was closing so at 5, so I quickly darted up and down the stairs, trying to get as many of the man made viewpoints that I could.

Fulfill your Bucket List plans

With most of my ambitions in Lauterbrunnen satisfied, we know had one more ambition as a couple to fulfill. To have a bit of fun. Beata’s ultimate ambition was to have her photo taken with one of those Swiss Cows. So we took off into the valley by car after returning from our hike, and found the perfect spot. Its an awesome place to try and capture some insta perfect moments.

Experience real adventure in Lauterbrunnen

Paragliding

Perhaps the best way to enjoy Lauterbrunnen is from above. Unfortunately my plans to paraglide didn’t come to fruition, however should you wish to, Airtime Paragliding seem a very reputable company. With a route that passes by waterfalls, surely this is the most thrilling way to experience Lauterbrunnen.

Via Ferrara

Of all the Lauterbrunnen things to do Via Ferrara surely ranks as the most thrilling. The walk (which should only be done in the company of local expert mountain guides) translates as iron way and you’ll need nerves of iron to take on this challenge. A strong head for heights is an absolute must too. With a route that clings to the mountain side crosses rope bridges high above the valley it’s a must for adrenaline junkies.

It is possible to do the 3 hour climbing route yourself providing you have the climbing experience. It only opens for the summer months and is free of charge, something that’s also very welcome in Switzerland. There is a requirement to have all the necessary climbing gear and harnesses. Grindelwald Sports offer guides tours with full equipment for 135 CHF per person.

Birg Thrill Walk

For the weaker of heart (like myself) who enjoy a somewhat more subdued thrill, the Birg Thrill Walk is the answer. As the last stop before Schilthorn, Birg features a cafe, hiking and a cliff walk experience. The steel cliff walk clings to the mountain face, with a glass floor separating you from the precipice below. There is also a viewing deck for the ultimate holiday photo with the peaks behind. Entry to both facilities is free of charge.

Places to visit from Lauterbrunnen

Hike or Take the cable Car to Murren

Of course being summer in Switzerland hiking is a huge attraction. The Lauterbrunnen- Murren hike climbs from the village, before crossing above Staubbach Falls and continuing on to Murren. It’s a 6 km trail with an elevation gain of over 700 metres, and is rated moderate. The trail can be linked to the Lauterbrunnen Stechelberg trail by using the cable car to Murren connection to make it into a looped trail of 12 km.

There are a significant number of other hiking trails from Murren, linking it with Gimmelwald, and the higher peaks such as Birg and Schilthorn. Of course for those that don’t fancy 20 km walks in the Bernese Alps, help is at hand. There is a cable car running from the aforementioned Lauterbrunnen railway station up to Grutschalp, before boarding the narrow gauge railway to Murren.

Despite Murren being a village of just 450 people it is an extremely popular year round resort. It’s altitude of 1638 metres above sea level and location high above Lauterbrunnen, ensure that no roads reach it. It is a pedestrian only village and all the better for it. There are 52 km of ski runs and an ice rink in winter, and in summer this green hamlet becomes an excellent hiking base.

The Schiltorn 007 Lookout

This lookout is famed for its part in the sole Bond outing by George Lazenby, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. In the movie it served as Blofeld’s clinical research institute. There’s even a James Bond Bar for the huge Bond fans out there. The summit is at 2970 metres and is topped by Piz Gloria. Here you’ll find a revolving 400 seat restaurant with views over 200 peaks. It’s quite the sight.

The day trip here involves a number of cable cars and that Swiss travel pass will come in handy. The round trip costs 108 CHF (2021 pricing) but the Swiss card gives a 50% reduction. The easiest route is to take the cable car from Stechelberg. If driving there is a car park at the station. The 30 minute journey passes by optional stops at Gimmelwald, Murren, and Birg and one of the most aesthetic trips in the region.

Travel from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen

We followed our own path and missed out on Murren through time constraints. We did return from Grindelwald some days later, the lure of Lauterbrunnen too strong. However it was not to gaze upon those waterfalls again (even if that’s what we mostly did). Our return was to visit Wengen, another pedestrianised town above Lauterbrunnen.

Wengen is located above the valley of Lauterbrunnen. All roads seem to lead back to Lauterbrunnen train station, and when we compared train prices of how to get to Wengen, they did for us on this day too. From Grindelwald the price was quadruple that from Lauterbrunnen. When a twelve minute train ride costs Fr 27 for two you have to think of cost. The train station in Lauterbrunnen has an underground car park, ideal for any planned trips. More rail pricing and details at Jungfrau.ch.

It may only be a twelve minute train ride. but when a twelve minute train ride rises above the town and valley of Lauterbrunnen, its one you never want to end. For me, it was also the place where i finally got my iconic photo of the town. I suggest to alternate the side of the train you sit on for the return journey, just to make the most of the views. The morning we traveled, the hills were shrouded in a thick fog, adding to the romanticism of this fairy-tale land.

Things to do in Wengen

Arriving in Wengen we disembarked the train, and took time over a coffee in the Hotel Silberhorn, to watch life and people pass by. Again I was relieved to find that the rumour of coffees in Switzerland costing €8 each was just that. Two cappuccinos cost a mere Fr 8. Enlivened we set off to explore Wengen. While the town was nice, it didn’t occur to us as somewhere that should be on a must see agenda.It did however have its defining characteristics, with the main street again beset by cute chalets, impressive hotels and a beautiful train station.

For us though, it was all about the views, and that’s why Wengen makes its appearance in my Lauterbrunnen valley. Skirt the western edge of the town until you come to Wengen’s Evangelist Reform Church, which is beautiful in its own right. But from here, the vista of Lauterbrunnen opens up, providing a stunning backdrop of waterfalls. It makes Wengen worth all the effort.

See the Top of Europe at Jungfraujoch

Billed as the top of Europe, a trip to Jungfraujoch is an experience unmatched elsewhere in Europe. The train route from Lauterbrunnen takes 1 hour 30 minutes and climbs to an incredible 3454 metres. With Europe’s highest peak of Jungfrau before you and the Aletsch Glacier beneath, it’s exhilarating. The station at the top features a gift store and restaurant, but more importantly a viewing deck to take in the snowy heavens surrounding. The onsite ice tunnels are one of its most amazing facilities too. The round trip to Jungfraujoch is one of the most expensive tourist attractions in Switzerland at 210 CHF a person, but isn’t travel all about living those one in a lifetime experiences.

The fact is however you enjoy Lauterbrunnen, it will make you stop and stare. There aren’t many places like this on Planet earth, so if you find yourself here, soak it all in.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lockdowns are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and now protect domestic trips also.

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But don’t let that lead you to the assumption that it is an easy climb. Despite the large numbers that tackle the mountain, it’s not one to be taken lightly. It’s a constant and difficult climb despite its short length, and the latter half is over loose stone and shingle. That poses a bigger challenge on the way down as even the most goat like are likely to lose their footing on the shingle.

Remember the mountain welcomes you, you don’t conquer the mountain. Every year there are a significant number of mountain rescue callouts. In August of 2020 a climber died on the slopes after a fall. On average around 20 people are treated for falls by mountain rescue every Reek Sunday. On the day I climbed, I witnessed a heavily bandaged climber coming down the mountain, who had sustained a head injury also. It’s highly important to come fit, prepared and with the right gear also.

History of Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick has been a site of pilgrimage for over 3000 years. Pagans would ascend the mountain to light fires during celebratory times. Presumably Halloween would have been a lively place on that hill. However it only really gained real prominence as a pilgrimage site, when St Paddy himself climbed the mountain, and spent the 40 days of lent here. He didn’t even get a reprieve on the 17th March (an Irish tradition where we can forget what we gave up for a day, and all go to the pub). It’s even told that this is how Saint Patrick rid the snakes from Ireland.

Directions to Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is located in Murrisk on the R335 route which follows the Wild Atlantic Way, which is in fact 8 km from the nearby large town of Westport in County Mayo. It is 230 km from Dublin and 92 from Galway. There is a regional bus service which runs from Westport to Louisburgh. Take bus 450 from Westport bus station. Westport is also serviced by trains from Dublin.

Some Facts about climbing Croagh Patrick

• There is a large car park at the foot of Croagh Patrick. This is a paid car park, so remember to bring some coins for the machine. Charges are €4 and the gift shop here won’t give coins without a purchase also. This is how I ended up owning some Croagh Patrick postcards
• There are 3 pilgrimage days in the year, Reek Sunday, Garland Friday, and also the Feast of the Assumption of our Lady on 15th August
• Croagh Patrick is 765 meters above sea level
• Croagh Patrick in fact has its own website with a lot of worthwhile information – Croagh Patrick.
• There is a Croagh Patrick visitor centre called Teach na Miasa near the car park. It was in fact opened by the director of archaeological excavations on the mountain. The centre provides information on the mountain, the local area in Mayo, has a craft shop, and also sells climbing aids, and souvenirs. There is also a café on-site. The centre was closed for much of 2020 due to restrictions and shall remain closed in early ’21.
• The out and back Pilgrim trail is 7.6 km to the top of Croagh Patrick
• The elevation gain is around 750 meters, which is in fact considerable for the length
• Croagh Patrick hike time is around 3 hours 30 minutes altogether
• The final ascent of the mountain is quite rugged and stoney so caution is recommended. Teens will enjoy it, but it would be too difficult for younger kids
• Hiking boots are highly recommended due to the rocky terrain and it really shouldn’t be attempted without hiking poles. Walking sticks (staffs) are available for sale at the visitor centre and shop also. They are undoubtedly a godsend for the treacherous way back down
• Bring water, snacks, a waterproof jacket (it is Ireland), sunscreen, a first aid kit, and a map also
• The best months to climb Croagh Patrick are March through October. The weather can vary here on any day, so its best to be prepared for sun, fog, or rain.
• The trail is available on alltrails.com
• Remember to leave no trace.

Step by Step on the Croagh Patrick hike

Climbing Croagh Patrick was top of my hiking wish list for 2020, and when the opportunity arose in September to travel anywhere in Ireland, I grasped it with both hands. I arrived in Murrisk around 11 am, and was disappointed to see the famous mountain shrouded in a thick veil of fog. Besides the challenge of the climb, Croagh Patrick is known for the panoramic views it gives over Clew Bay, where a scattering of green islands contrast against the sea.

Parking in the large car park, the ascent begins at the statue of St Patrick. This was built in 1928 by a Reverend Father Peterson, who had collected money in America, for the rebuilding of a church in Westport. Obviously, the generosity exceeded that hoped for.

From here the trail begins with a series of stones and rocks, running alongside a rough stream. The trail is always obvious, but if there is ever a doubt, simply follow those in front of you. Immediately it’s a test of fitness because it’s all uphill from here. This section provides the best views of Clew Bay, as the elevation increases. Although it is a pandemic year there was still a good volume of people attempting the climb. The sheer age difference really surprised me. I latched onto a Galway Gal called Deirdre, a marathon runner who had turned to hiking in 2020, and we climbed together.

The Middle Section

The trail then levels off somewhat after about 1.5 km and leads you into a false sense of security. You wonder what all the fuss is about. You even imagine you could probably have done this barefoot! Incidentally it was at this time I witnessed someone barefoot, who I kindly asked if I could take a picture of his feet. For the record, that’s the first time I’ve ever asked a stranger that.

On this level there are public toilets and a stone oratory that is said to date to between the 5th and 9th century.

Walking Barefoot

The tradition of walking barefoot is a sign of penance and atonement on the trail. Some do it in remembrance of a lost loved one. Walking over the stones is said to be good for the soul. However it has been advised of late to not do it, as the path has significantly degraded over the past few decades due to traffic.

The Final Ascent of Croagh Patrick

This part presents your real challenge. The scree on the trail is strewn all the way across the path. There are supposedly plans to upgrade the trail with a better path, but perhaps that would take some of the challenge of the pilgrimage away. For now this is the only way to tackle the pilgrims trail. It is arduous over that last kilometer ascent, trying to find stable footing. It can only be imagined that this is where most accidents occur, and notably a considerable distance from the ground for mountain rescue.

The summit is the site of a church from where mass is celebrated on pilgrimage days. The church was built in 1905 by 12 local men, from stones found on the mountain side. When we finally reached the top the fog was still shrouding everything below, and around us. There is a large area atop the mountain, so its easy to relax and take a well deserved break. You can also capture your achievement by taking a photo behind the Croagh Patrick sign.

Fortunately luck was clearly on our side and the fog started to lift below us then. The view over Lough Nacorra was indeed one of the best I’ve seen all year. Proof that its good to keep the faith on the most faithful of Irish walks.

The descent

The descent of the scree filled part was undoubtedly as difficult as the way up. With upward climbers on the clearer paths, we were forced to drift to the rougher stones to give way. Social distancing is also a consideration. I first hand learned how easy it is to slip on the scree. Fortunately my backpack broke the fall. Even mountain goats fall sometimes, don’t they? Take care. Once past this area the descent should be relatively easy. Looking back however, I doubt I will ever attempt this arduous trail again. The Croagh Patrick hike map below is the route on Alltrails that I followed.

Other things to do at Croagh Patrick

Across the road from Croagh Patrick is the National Famine Monument in Murrisk. Dating from 1997, the sculpture by John Behan depicts a coffin ship. Coffin ships, as they became known, were used to transport people to America and Canada, during the Irish famine of 1845-1849. Many died on the crossing, and the Irish famine is regarded as the greatest disaster to befall the world during the 19th century. The sculpture is startling, as ghastly skeletons surround the side of the ship. Nearby are the 15th century ruins of Murrisk Abbey also.

Where to stay near Croagh Patrick

Westport is the largest town near Croagh Patrick, and also the perfect local base for exploring the county of Mayo. It’s an incredibly vibrant town, with an excellent nightlife in particular. It’s at home hosting Irish stag and hen parties, as much as tourists. Add a great selection of restaurants and hotels, and there’s no real need to look any further. Guided walking tours of Croagh Patrick can also be booked in Westport.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link such as the Booking.com one below, and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your continuing support.

Where to eat near Croagh Patrick

Westport has a vast number of pubs and restaurants all serving quality Irish and international cuisine. As I had a long drive ahead of me, I sought a quick option. Chilli Coffee Shop on Westport’s main street thus fit the bill. A big mug of cappuccino and a carbs and iron stuffed steak sandwich were undoubtedly the perfect antidote for my hike hunger.

Other Walks in Ireland

Most of my Irish hiking is on the east coast in Dublin and Wicklow. For some inspiration on hikes there check out the following articles.

30 Best walks in Dublin

The Spinc Glendalough

Djouce Mountain.

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Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lockdowns are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and now protect domestic trips also.

Have you hiked the Croagh Patrick? Let me know your experiences in the comments below.

Traditionally this route featured a gruelling 600 steps route just to reach the top of the Spinc ridge. In those days it was a quiet walk, with many put off by that. But those days are no more. Obviously those in power knew that they had a great asset on their hands and so 2020 saw the building of a zigzag path, in place of the stairs. It has opened up the walk to many. It is still a 10 km hike though so don’t think it’s made it easy. I would edge towards moderate.

Disclosure; This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

How to get to Glendalough

Glendalough is located 68 km from Dublin city centre, and the fastest route there takes 1h 10m via the N11, before turning onto the R755 at Kilmacanogue. From there it’s a straight route to Glendalough. A far more scenic but time consuming route follows the Military Road across the Wicklow Mountains.

Glendalough is served by St Kevin’s bus service which leaves from St Stephens Green Dublin at 1130 daily. It arrives in Glendalough at 1250. The last bus back is at 1650 so you better get your skates on when you get there. To better enjoy the area, and with more time, shack up in one of the excellent accommodation choices in nearby Laragh such as the Wicklow Heather of the Tudor Lodge B&B. Then take the 7am or afternoon bus back the following day. The bus costs €20 return.

Some Facts about the Spinc Glendalough

• There is parking at both the upper and lower lake in Glendalough. The lower lake parking is free but will add over 3 km, as the green road walk had to be followed to the route. The upper lake car park costs €4.
• The lower lake is also the location of the monastic site which was settled for several centuries from the 6th onwards. There is also the Glendalough Hotel, and some craft stalls, while the upper lake features a number of food stalls for hungry hikers. More at Glendalough.ie.
• The looped walk is 10 km, climbing the Glendalough Spinc first then travelling out into the Glenealo Valley and returning via the miners village
• With social distancing a major factor you should only attempt the trail clockwise starting via the Poulanass Waterfall
• The elevation gain is around 450 metres,
• The walk should take around 3 hours to complete
• There are steep edges on the Spinc so caution is recomended. Teens will enjoy it, but it might be difficult for younger kids
• Some wildlife in the area include sika red deer, goats, mountain hares, pine martens and birds such as red grouse, jays, and ravens.
• Hiking boots are recomended due to the rocky terrain in the Glenealo Valley and I recommend poles too.
• Bring water, snacks, a waterproof jacket (it is Ireland), sunscreen, and a map and compass
• The trail is available on alltrails.com
• There are many other walks available in the area should you want to come back. Trust me, you will.
• Remember to leave no trace.

Step by Step on the Glendalough White Route

The trail begins from the upper lake car park, now led by all the social distancing signs. The walk follows the route of the Wicklow Way, climbing up through woodland past the Poulanass Waterfall. This area is particularly aesthetic, with the narrow falls, and the passive river that’s feeds it. It’s worth going off trail to appreciate it.

Keep an eye on the signs for the white Route, as it switches back now. What follows would have been the most challenging part, but those steps are no more. Imagine climbing in excess of those 528 steps of London’s St Paul’s Cathedral, and all at the start of the hike. Thankfully it’s now a series of switchbacks.

Once you get past this (which is a bit unsightly as the vegetation has yet to grow around it) you’ll reach the spinc boardwalk. And the views. The lakes below are a sublime sight, with the upper lake in particular being your main view. From it, the Glenealo River serpentines away into its eponymous valley. There are numerous photo opportunities along the way here, and the views get better as you progress. At this point there is the option of the blue route, which halves the length of the hike and veers off into the forest. Keep going it’s worth it.

Glenealo Valley and miners village

The boardwalk sweeps down from the Spinc into the Glenealo Valley, before crossing the river. From here the walk takes on a new lease of life, following a rocky path by the river side. The flowing water and the ruins of a mining village become the new focus. Mining of lead took place here for over 200 years, before finally coming to a stop in 1957. There are many buildings scattered along the Glenealo Valley and some old mining equipment too. The area took on the name Van Diemen’s Land (the old name of modern day Tasmania), due to the remoteness of its location. When they miners departed, they left behind a herd of goats, Nowadays those goats still run wild here.

The descent from this point is a little tricky underfoot, as the path is strewn with stones. Hiking poles and boots were very welcome and trainers would render it difficult. We noticed some others struggling.

As if that wasn’t enough the walk finally passes a glacial debris field before reaching the upper lake. Strewn with large boulders, it’s perfect for anyone looking to take up bouldering. Finally the tree lined road by the upper lake returns you to the car park.

Pro Tip for the Spinc Glendalough

My pro tip for the Spinc doesn’t have anything to do with the Spinc. It’s a well marked route, and nothing poses and particular difficulty. Instead my pro tip is for when you finish. Skip those food trucks and get back on the road. A few kilometres back towards Laragh is the Wicklow Heather, a gastropub without comparison in this region. With plenty of outdoor seating, it’s perfect for the year we are in. The food is the wholesome Irish plate you need after your hike. But the real surprise here, is the Irish Writers Room, with a collection of first editions from Joyce, Stoker and Swift among many others. Ask for a table here if you can.

Laragh is also a great base for other hiking adventures in the area.

Other Walks in Wicklow

The Wicklow Mountains are a hikers paradise and it’s low but challenging mountains are crisscrossed by many trails. One of the best I’ve discovered this year is Lough Bray, not altogether dissimilar to the Spinc Glendalough. Find its delights out for yourself on my blog on the Lough Bray loop.

Travel Insurance

Now more than ever is the time to consider adding travel insurance for your trip. The travel industry is very fragile, and cancellations, business closes and lockdowns are indeed a distinct possibility. Protect yourself against them with World Nomads travel insurance. World Nomads offer a no obligation quote, and now protect domestic trips too.

Have you hiked the Spinc Glendalough? Let me know your experiences in the comments below.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Things to do in Carlingford & the Cooley Peninsula

Carlingford lies about one hour and thirty minutes from Dublin so it’s perfect for a short stop over. It’s ideal for a one night stay and is also one of the better places to visit should you wish to break up a trip to Belfast and the sights of Northern Ireland. It ranks as one of the best things to do in Louth, a county which is quite historical on the Irish stage.

Visit the Proleek Dolmen

We travelled from Dublin to Carlingford, a 130 km trip, which took 1 hour and 30 minutes. Just outside Dundalk we took a detour to see the Proleek Portal Dolmen which is a megalithic tomb from around 3000 BC and is located in the grounds of the Ballymascanlon Hotel. It’s on a golf course but there is an easy access point from a side road near the Deerpark Stud. It’s a fully intact Dolmen and worth a fleeting visit. Best to keep an eye out for golfers with poor trajectory though.

Stay at a charming B&B

On our previous trip to Carlingford we had stayed in the Four Seasons Hotel. It was adequate, but certainly not spectacular. However having quoted me €160 for the night I took to Booking.com my favoured accommodation booking site and spent half that on a B&B located slightly outside the town.

Our first stop was here at the Walker’s Nest. It was certainly deserving of its high rating on review sites, little trinkets and ornaments bring the house to life, and each of the four rooms has a theme, be it Elephant, Owl, Bird or Butterfly. Ours was the owl room and there were owls on the cushions, walls, and on the many surfaces, Surprisingly it was all down with style and felt so homely. They also provided maps on walks in the adjacent hills.

Tour historical Carlingford centre

We drove into Carlingford and after parking we took a stroll through the town. Carlingford as a settlement first sprang up around the nearby King John’s Castle in the 12th century. It saw much prosperity in medieval times as a port, and also due to its fishing and oyster industries. It’s greatest fame perhaps owes to those oysters, Green Finned Oysters are harvested in the beautiful Carlingford Lough, and a yearly oyster festival takes place within the town.

Some remnants of those medieval times still remain within the town, not least in the streets which are narrow and lined by several medieval buildings. Market Street in the town centre features many colourful buildings and some famed antique shops and boutiques. Needless to say but a good number of pubs too. The pride of the locals is felt in the sheer number of flowers they decorate each wall, garden and lamp-post with throughout the town. Visit the Carlingford Tourist Office on the Liberties of Carlingford for a great introduction to the town.

Taaffe’s Castle

One of these pubs has somehow blended into Taaffes’ Castle, which was a medieval merchants fortified residence from the 16th century. It used to stand at the shore line but land reclamation means it now lies inland.

Mint & Tholsel

Another distinctly medieval building is the Mint, which is also heavily fortified. It’s name presumably comes from Carlingford having a licence to print coinage in the 15th century.  This is probably supported by the machicolous over the door which allowed the inhabitants to fire arrows at unwelcome visitors. We could do with bringing those back for TV licence inspectors.

The Tholsel was the original town gate where tolls were levied from for visitors to the town. It later served varying functions and the dank room underneath served as the town gaol in the 18th century.

We had a few more sights to see in the town and we started by visiting Crystal Antiques. Full of all manner of curiosities, this shop has countrywide fame through national TV coverage.

Further along Dundalk Street The Church of the Holy Trinity now houses the Carlingford Heritage centre. The church tower with its ramparts are medieval and flags rustle in the wind from atop. The grounds with its timeless graveyard, present views down to the fjord below.

The final stop on the historical walking tour is the ruin of Carlingford Priory. The priory was established in 1306 by the Dominicans and included a church and cloisters. All that remains today is the ruins of the church, as it fell into decline after the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII. It’s a nice area to wander around for free.

Have pie at Ruby Ellen’s

We have a fond memory of visiting Ruby Ellen’s Tea Room in the town and we decided now was the perfect time to drop in for a slice of apple pie or lemon pie. The tea rooms are incredibly quaint and the cake and tea selections are to die for.

Stroll along Carlingford Lough

We stayed here a little while as the weather was less than desirable for exploring and after it cleared we took a walk along Carlingford harbour. The views across the way to Mourne mountains are pretty. It is called Carlingford Lough, but is more reminiscent of a fjord. Apparently it’s not a true fjord, so who known what it is. The full length of the harbour is an enjoyable walk and takes you out to the end of the pier.

Peer back in time at King John’s Castle

On an outcrop overlooking the lake fjord water is King John’s castle. This 12th century castle was built by the Norman Hugh De Lacy. It takes its name from a visit by King John. The last time I visited, the castle could be walked around, but now the ravages of time have taken its toll and the area is completely cordoned off. Sad to see.

Enjoy Culinary Carlingford

The changeability of the weather forced us back to our B&B before we took a taxi back into the town for dinner. Upon our previous visit I had tried oysters for the first time and I was keen to give them a go again. Carlingford is renowned in Ireland for its oysters. We had previously eaten in Magee’s Bistro which specialises in seafood and steak, it was exactly what we wanted. The waiting staff were brilliant and our waitress in particular had a hatred for oysters. She told us stories how during the oyster festival people were drinking oysters from shot glasses. She was clearly repulsed by the whole idea. So it was perfect. Except it obviously wasn’t as good as we remembered as it was now closed.

However the owner of the current premises occupying the building did come out to us. He must have seen the dejected looks on our faces, and recommended we go to the Kingfisher Bistro instead. Funny how things work out. His recommendation was excellent the sizzling prawns were the best I ever had, and the steak…Yum. Beata’s goats cheese tartlet and cod were also fantastic. A bottle of wine (or two) later and we were back and ready for bed. The last shards of light treated us to a beautiful sunset on our return.

Work it off at the Carlingford Adventure Centre

The Carlingford Adventure Centre is the largest such location in the Republic, with a whole host of high adrenaline activities to keep visitors entertained. The Skypark, a course of high ropes and ziplines will give the biggest thrills, but they are joined rock climbing, orienteering, canoeing, and a gazillion other options. With packages catering for team building exercises as well as stags, hens and families, the diverse range of activities is sure to keep anyone happy. Contact https://carlingfordadventure.com/ for more details.

Walk in the footsteps of Irish Legends from Mythology

The Cooley mountains were the subject of a popular story from Irish mythology. In this fable, Queen Meabh of Connacht (an Irish province) stole the Brown Bull of Cooley, a prize animal, from the great warrior Cu Chulainn, and herded the beast across the country. A great chase ensued. This walk can be relived in the Tan Trail, which stretches across much of Ireland, with a looped Carlingford version.

Take a drive out to Slieve Foye

We weren’t up to this 40km walk so on the morning of our second day we took a drive out to Slieve Foye where a forest road takes you up to a viewpoint and a walk to the summit. We continued on our own circular route (driving) taking in some interesting stops including that at the Long Woman’s Grave, a story of heartbreak and well worth a read.

Walk the Carlingford Omeath Greenway

As part of a new greenway which is being built to connect much of Ireland’s east coast, this stretch is a 7 km one that travels from Carlingford to Omeath. The ideology behind much of the Irish greenways is to use the now defunct old railway lines, from Ireland’s past, when the country was far better connected by rail. The sad loss of these rails, is to the greenways benefit, and the stretch here passes railway bridges with sweeping coastal views. Ideal for all fitness types, it will soon connect the town to Omagh.

Take one of the Cooley Peninsula walks

There are several outdoor walking tours running from Carlingford, more details of which you can find on the areas official website. We took the advice of our host and selected the Molly Loop walk. It helped it more or less started at the gate of our accommodation. The 5 km route was along a road for a kilometer before finally turning off onto a walking trail. Practically the first thing we did was take a wrong turn bringing us back down to the road. The reason we choose this trail was the presence of an abandoned village up on the mountain face overlooking the lough. It had allegedly been abandoned during the Irish famine, due to a lack of food.

The Irish famine for those who don’t know was when blight attacked the potato crop for the consecutive years 1845-1849. Poverty ensured that no other food sources were available, and 2 million people perished as a result.

I presumed I had found the village and climbed over a gate into a field that was dotted with cows, so I investigated further. No just some old sheds. I did find an abandoned caravan though. So pressing on with views becoming ever more impressive we finally came to a stile. Jackpot. Rows of stone walls reminiscent of Connemara lined the hill face, and led into a small village. Very small now. There was a row of three cute stone ruins and from here beautiful views swept down to the town below. It was also a puzzle how anyone could have lived here in such hardship, exposed to the elements, and in such trying times. It was no surprise they abandoned in search of finer pastures.

Visit the Clermont Cairns atop the peninsula

We bid a final farewell to the town and took a drive along the coast to see where the oyster beds are located. All we found was the skeleton of a boat, and to be honest we didn’t know what we were looking for. We turned the car inland and took aim for the highest accessible point on the peninsula by car, the TV mast located next to the Clermont cairns. The drive up from Omeath up is essentially a paved hiking trail, and was as chilling as any drive in Ireland, and was certainly not to Beata’s taste. There are excellent drops with wide-reaching views over the lough and the Mourne Mountains. It’s a shame the cloud was so thick that day.

The summit tower and cairn aren’t the most exciting, but sometimes the thrill of a journey is in the journey itself. Certainly true in this instance.

See all the area has to offer

There’s so much more to Carlingford that it warrants several visits. Ravensdale Equestrian centre provide horse riding and trekking through the beautiful local countryside. Martin’s Pub on the main road from Dundalk hosts tours and whiskey tasting experiences in the nearby Cooley Distillery. The Cooley distillery is one of Ireland’s longest running ones, with brands such as Kilbeggan, Greenore and Connemara. For the less adult children out there, the Carlingford Leprechaun and Fairy Underground Cavern, tells the story of the last of the leprechauns in Ireland.

Carlingford is a relatively unvisited part of the country and is often forgotten in favour of the Wild Atlantic Way. But it deserves more. Perhaps you will contemplate it on your next trip. It’s an excellent springboard to start exploring Northern Ireland from too.

For more staycation ideas in Ireland, both local to Dublin and around the country, have a read of 2020 The Year to Staycation Ireland.

Kalambaka, Greece packs some weight as a base with some hidden gems such as astonishing churches, monasteries of its own, and respectable accomodation and dining. It is also rather surprisingly a quite economical place to stay. Let me guide you through your base and the alternative things to do in Meteora and Kalambaka.

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Kalambaka as a base

Kalambaka is often known as Kalabaka or Kalampaka. It is a medium sized town it sits at the foot of the Meteora hills. Though it has a population of around 20,000, this often swells during the tourism season. It’s a lively place in the evenings and as a result there are lots of facilities to accommodate the passing traveller. The town also lies within 2km of the monasteries, so is ideal for those wishing to visit the monasteries by foot, car or guided tour.

Meteora is not the easiest of places to travel to in Greece, as the north is a series of mountains. So half the battle is getting there. But when you do, its worth all the effort.

Thessaloniki to Meteora & Kalambaka

The fastest involves driving from Thessaloniki, which is the closest international airport serving the area. The journey of 238 km will take in the about 2 hours 40 minutes by car, and travels around the majestic and shimmering Mount Olympus, home of the Greek gods of old. This is what I elected to do.

Public transport to Kalambaka is serviced by train. Trains run from the New Railway Station, somewhat outside the city. Bus 78 from the airport takes you here, and then a route runs to Kalambaka. Trains can take anywhere from 3 to 4 hours and often involve a change at Paleofarsalos. But the route through the countryside is a beautiful one.

Athens to Meteora & Kalambaka

Meteora and Kalambaka are also easily reached by train from Athens. Trains run from Syntagma station in Athens and this is a short trip using the cities metro system. From here trains to Kalambaka are frequent, taking around 4 hours, but also sometimes requiring a change at Paleofarsalos. Driving the 350 km from Athens takes around 4 hours as well, with rush hour traffic a big issue in the capital.

Where to stay in Kalambaka

There are quite a number of hotel options in Kalambaka. They generally represent good value for money. Even the upper end, the Divani Meteora Hotel, complete with pool and overwhelming views of Meteora, won’t break the bank.

I was travelling with a relative budget in mind, and many hotels had a good offering in this respect. I settled on Mythos Guesthouse, a centrally located traditional Greek offering. At €153 for 3 nights it very much fell in budget too. Its 7 rooms are quite aesthetically laid out and all come with balconies to view Meteora from. You can expect all the mod cons. The host, Spiros was the making of the place, a man of helpful advice and morning cheer. He was excellent company during breakfast and had a real good natured desire to help. His tips encouraged me to visit the Holy Trinity Monastery on foot first. I booked the Mythos Guesthouse on Booking.com.

Alternative things to do in Kalambaka & Kastraki

Kalambaka and the small village of Kastraki sit side by side at Meteoras foot and in themselves present quite a few options for visitors.

Visit the Meteora Monasteries

The most obvious of these of course is to visit Meteora, which I did by car and hiking tour over the course of my stay. The monasteries are arranged along a now circular route, atop the very spectacular Meteora rocks. For those with a disposition for excitement, rock climbing is amazing here. The finest of the monasteries are Varlaam Monastery, Roussanou Monastery and Grand Meteoron.

For the finer details on my visit, I suggest reading my blog on Visiting Meteora.

Tours from Kalambaka to Meterora

Of course if hiring a car or a long hike are not to your preference, Kalambaka offers a number of companies who provide a day trip Meteora tour. These usually aim to visit three monasteries in a full day tour and impart a lot of wisdom that simply isn’t available at the sites. They also provide the option of a sunset tour, as the sunset is out of this world up there. If you prefer your tours more long haul, tours from Athens and Thessaloniki are optional. Its best to book private tours in advance, and I recommend Get Your Guide for this.

Churches of Kalambaka

St Vissarions Church

On my ascent to the Holy Trinity Monastery I was distracted by the churches along the way. The first you come across on the path is St Vissarions Church which is a newer Byzantine churches in the region. But don’t let that distract you from it. As it is newer it allows you the opportunity to take photos of the art inside, the only church to do so in Kalambaka and Meteora. The walls and ceiling are completely hagiographied (painted to tell the story of the lives of saints) and it was a welcome introduction to the art style that awaited me on the days ahead.

Church of the Assumption of Virgin Mary

But the title of the church that simply must be visited goes to Church of the Assumption of Virgin Mary. This church stands on the site of a Greek temple to Apollo, and a church was built here in the 4th Century. The current dates from the 9th to 11th century. A payment of €2 is required, and it is money well spent. I shelled out €5 more on a guide book. The frescoes inside date from either the 11th or 16th centuries. Alas no photos are allowed so I can’t share with you. It’s ambo in the centre of the church is of great interest too. The church predates all the Meteora monasteries, and is of great interest to any visitor to the area.

Visiting other monasteries in Meteora

One thing I was surprised to learn was that other monasteries existed besides the six monasteries of Meteora. I had heard that there were 24 at some stage but assumed all were in ruins or lost. Not the case. So I was even more surprised to learn that you could in fact find more monasteries within easy reach of Kalambaka and Kastraki. So with time on my hands I headed out to find what I could.

The Eremitage and Panagia Church

This area can be reached within easy walking distance of Kalambaka. The route turns off before Kastraki, and follows a dirt trail. En route you will pass some caves which are well worth a rummage around. They were previously inhabited. From here the vistas of Meteora are to die for. Continuing on the road, a parking lot marks the entrance to Monastery Aghia Trias Asketirion of St Nicholas, or the holy monastery of St Nicholas. However entry is prohibited here. But don’t let that deter you, as paths lead down to the left and up to the right.

Taking the path on the left first past the Panagia Church you come to a rock face and high above, the first of your monasteries. A beautiful tiny shrine sits on ground level. Looking up a monastery, whose name I never learned sits built into the mountain. Wooden stairs and balconies protrude from the cliff and they are precarious to say the least. It’s fascinating but its clearly still occupied and there are signs of it.

Making my way back I followed a forest path up to another rock face, and yet another monastery built into the cliff side. This was known as the Eremitage. A rock path that I would never take hugs the cliff side leading up. Its again off bounds, but for a taster of how the life of solitude still exists in this region, it’s quite the eye opener.

Ypapanti Old Monastery

Buoyed by the interesting experience of these monasteries, I set my sights on more. On the road to Agios Nikolaos Anapafsas Monastery, a trail leads uphill. It’s a narrow dusty road, infested with potholes. It worsens as it continues and at some point I deemed it too much for my rental car and continued on foot. This area can also be reached by hiking from Great Meteoron. The area is quite remote and swarming with bugs so bring some repellent.

The first monastery to come across was the Ypapanti Old Monastery, precariously overhanging a ledge. The monastery was established in 1367. It features mod cons like a lift and is currently occupied by nuns. It is off limits as well. For a stunning view of it, follow the path to the Thymios Vlachavas Statue on a nearby hill and appreciate it in all its glory.

The last monastery I was to come across is said to be open to visitors at certain times, is further along the track here. Whats it called? I’ve no idea, I could only find its Greek name. The monastery is more modern in style and can only be viewed through the gate. The bugs are at that their worst here too, and I felt like I was being eaten alive. I would suggest to pass on this one.

There are more suggestions on ruins and monasteries to be found on the Visit Meteora Website.

Theopetra Cave

The Theopetra cave is a cave system soe 3km outside of Kalambaka. It is known for the remains found there. Some date as far back as 50000 years ago. Human life can be charted through the cave all the way through the Middle and Upper Palaeolithic as well as Mesolithic and Neolithic periods. I didn’t get to visit the caves, as honestly I never heard of them till I started writing this article.

Museums of Kalambaka

Another attraction I gave a miss to in Meteora is its Natural History Museum and Mushroom Museum. I imagined the area best appreciated in the great outdoors. That said for anyone with an interest in mushrooms (besides eating them), it has a range of sculptures of mushrooms from different ecosystems and goes through the three stages of a mushrooms life. On top of that, there is a “dead zoo” with over 300 mammals and birds on display, and information on their habitats and endangerment. It is located at 20 Pindou, 42200, Kalambaka and admission is €5.

There is a Digital Projection Centre of Meteora’s History and Culture is found in Kalambaka on P. Dimitriou & Nikolaou Plastira Street. Open seven days a week, this 3-d theatre allows visitors to watch shows on the Mythology of Holy Meteora and take a tour through the rocks and monasteries. Its ideal for those who are averse to outdoor exercise.

The Hellenic Culture Museum of Kalambaka houses the private collection of Mr. Pavlos Balogiannis, a rare collection of books and maps. The books are on the ancients such as Homer and Aristotle and Greek Mythology. The museum offers an insight into Ancient Greek learning, and the evolution and history of the Greek education. Open seven days a week from 12 to 8 pm.

Sunset in Kalambaka

The sunset from Meteora should not be missed, but if for whatever reason (hunger, tiredness) you cannot make it, then Kalambaka will make up for the disappointment. The sky above the rocks gives them a new found beauty. I was treated to a wonderful display of orange and pink.

Meteora Rocks from a distance

Meteora can also be appreciated from afar, and the best place to do this is certainly the Mirador de Kalambaka. With the town in the foreground and the rocks to the rear, it’s a good place to venture to by day or night. The mirador is only a single kilometers stroll from the centre of Kalambaka too so those weary legs should be able to manage one final walk to see Meteora from another angle. The view over Kalambaka at night is rather excellent.

What to Eat in Kalambaka

Any holiday location is only ever as good as the food its restaurants serves, and thankfully Kalambaka delivers. It’s hard not to, when Greek cuisine is your speciality. None of the meals below cost me more than €8 and all restaurants offer a complimentary small dessert to finish, be it a scoop of ice cream or fruit. Dining out represents great value for money here. These are a few of the place I can recommend.

Restaurant Meteora

Restaurant Meteora is one of a number of restaurants located near the town hall square off Trikalon, the main street running through the town. Open since 1925, it is still family owned to this day. The menu is a traditional offering, and my first go to option on Greek menus is Moussaka. It really didn’t disappoint. Don’t tell my Italian friends but it’s better than Lasagna. The restaurant is a pleasant place to sit with a beer and watch life pass by also.

Restaurant Platanos

A trip to Greece of course isn’t complete without some good gyros. After a trek up and down the town, I actaully found myself back where I started and my accomodation, Mythos Guesthouse. My hunt for gyros yielded nowhere that captured my attention. The adjoining restaurant, Platanos has existed since 1953, and serves up a mean gyros and rendered my walk pointless. Delicious.

Panellenion

Panellenion is one of the more famed restaurants in the town, and in addition its location on the centre of Town Hall square is one of the best. If you haven’t had enough of traditional fare (I hadn’t) then it’s easily recommendable. I settled on Souvlaki and a beer, which is good hearty fare after a days hiking.

Taberna Oyerpi Pappas

This small Taberna is found in Kastraki. It’s the sort of place where locals sit and gossip, and actually the owner didn’t have a word of English. Perfect in other words. After some very basic communication I settled on a Greek Salad. The freshness of Greek salads will never fail to amaze my taste buds. The tavern is suitably located to return from Meteora for lunch as I did, and is also close to the aforementioned museum.

Day trips from Kalambaka

Three hours drive from Kalambaka on the route south to Athens is the popular Ancient Delphi, the famed religious site of the Ancient Greeks. Significant ruins still exist.

Two hours west is the wild Vikos Aoos national park, and the deepest canyon in the world, relative to its width.

One hour beyond is the coastal resort of Parga, and the nearby entrance to Hades. I have always wondered what the underworld looked like.

Back at the start of my route, Greece’s second city Thessaloniki, is a vibrant student city, where byzantine churches and a rich street art scene sit side by side. Monastery lovers will no doubt be attracted to Mount Athos, the centre of Greek monastery life. For the moment though it may only be visited by men.

Kalambaka

Kalambaka is a respectable destination in its own right, with unquestionably enough attractions to draw a visitor. With Meteora on its footstep, it is sadly somewhat overlooked. But it’s churches and access to alternative monasteries that are off the beaten track make it more authentic than Meteora. In this day of mass tourism, it’s a place where you will find yourself alone staring at amazing art or architecture. That can only be a good thing.

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Why Visiting Meteora is Incredible

Meteora is a series of monasteries built atop large rocks. The monasteries are an operose creation of monks, and their internal beauty belies their location. It’s rocks were formed some 60 million years ago, when a series of movements pushed the seabed upwards. This created a high plateau with a series of fault lines. The rocks are a mixture of sandstone and conglomerate.

The area was first settled by monks around the 11th century looking for solitude and with time the concept of the monasteries grew. With the threat of the Ottomans the monks retreated higher and higher in defence and eventually the first monastery Great Meteoron was constructed. At one time 24 monasteries stood atop the rocks in its golden era. If you are wondering is visiting Meteora worth it, let me now assure you it is

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click a link and purchase something that I have recommended. While clicking these links won’t cost you any money, it will help keep this site going and me travelling. Thank you for your support.

Meteora Monasteries opening schedules

My research suggested there was some difficulty in seeing all the monasteries, due to the fact that at least one of them is closed every day of the week. Some careful planning later and I worked out a schedule to see all six. Or at least give it a shot. If you pay particular attention to the opening times of the various Meteora monasteries, then it’s easy to work around. One monastery is always closed on alternating days so it’s not possible to do all in one day. Opening times very between high and low season, and makes it much more difficult to achieve come winter. The best time to visit Meteora then is from April to May, or September to October, when temperatures are bearable.

• St Stephens Nunnery
  • Opening Hours: 9:00 to 13:30 and 15:30 to 17:30.
  • The monastery is closed on Mondays.
• Grand Meteoron Monastery
  • Opening Hours: 09:00 to 15:00.
  • The monastery is closed on Tuesdays.
• Roussanou Monastery
  • Opening Hours: 09:00 to 17:00 (09:30 – 17:00 on Sundays).
  • The monastery is closed on Wednesdays.
• Varlaam Monastery
  • Opening Hours: 09:00 to 16:00.
  • The monastery is closed on Fridays.
• Holy Trinity Monastery
  • Opening Hours: 09:00 to 17:00.
  • The monastery is closed on Thursdays.
• St Nikolaos Anapafsas Monastery
  • Opening Hours: 08:00 to 16:00.
  • The monastery is closed on Fridays.

The winter opening hours can be found on Meteoras own website.

How to get to Meteora

Meteora and Kalambaka is easily reached by train from Athens. The Athens to Meteora train runs from Syntagma station, taking around 4 hours, but also sometimes requiring a change at Paleofarsalos. Driving the 350 km from Athens takes in the region of 4 hours as well.

Public transport to Kalambaka from Thessaloniki is serviced by rail. Trains run from the New Railway Station and can take anywhere from 3 to 4 hours and often involving a change at Paleofarsalos. .

I in fact spent three nights in Meteora, using it as a base to explore the surrounding area. My international flight brought me to Thessaloniki and after picking up my rental car a 3 hour and 238 km trek across the country saw me arrive in Kalabaka just after 6 pm on a Monday.

You can also visit Meteora Monasteries by full day private tour from Athens or by train tour.

Sunset Rock

I figured I immediately had no time to waste in my Meteora sightseeing and so set out for the landmark known as sunset rock. As you may have guessed it’s a good place to watch a sunset. Sunset was at 715 but with the mountains surrounding it was closer to 7. I arrived just on time to the rock. Sunset rock is a huge outcrop that can be walked out along, with dramatic drops on three sides. It is not for those with limited mobility, and unquestionably not for those with vertigo either. I felt nervous just standing there and watching people moving it’s edges.

And it’s here you want to be to see the famous Meteora sunset. I’ll be honest it’s a challenging shoot as the sun is still high in the sky as it sets behind the mountains to the west. To get in the sky, sun, mountains and the temples and valley below, involves a lot of trial and error. But it’s a stunning sight and wonderful introduction to Meteora.

Kalabaka

As a base for Meteora, the many hotel options in Kalabaka are the perfect solution. Most staff here are English speaking. It’s also a great location to find Meteora tours. The town is more than just a base though. Not to be missed are;

• Hellenic Culture Museum; which contains the collection of Mr. Pavlos Balogiannis and dedicated to the history of Greek education and learning;
• Natural History Museum: a dead zoo collection of local wildlife and a unique mushroom museum;
• The Digital Projection Centre; a 3-D guide through the mythology and monasteries of Meteora
• Private Tour offering a full day trip to see the monasteries if you don’t have your own transport. You can also book a sunset tour

I took time over the days I spent in Kalabaka, to explore the town too. But its too much story for this blog. You’ll find all that over on my Kalambaka blog.

My Visiting Meteora story continues

I descended to the town of Kalabaka (otherwise known as Kalambaka) and checked into my comfortable budget accommodation at Mythos Guesthouse, before enjoying a Moussaka and beer at the aptly named Restaurant Meteora. Greek cuisine is a personal favourite of mine. I fell asleep listening to the sound of a singing local family, who were apparently preparing for a wedding that week.

At breakfast the next morning I met my host Spiros, a cheerful guy indeed. On the subject of the monasteries he said realistically I could probably only do three in a day. Very few people it seems try to see all six. Challenge accepted!

I was provided with a nice illustrated map that my hotel provided for visiting Meteora, and I set out to prove Spiros wrong that day and do five. With breakfast served at 8, I was on my way to the first of my monasteries before 9. First up was a hiking tour from Kalambaka to Meteora and the trail that led up to Holy Trinity Monastery.

What is the Dress Code to Visit Meteora

Pay heed to the warnings about what attire to wear when visiting the monasteries. Gents a t-shirt and long pants is required. Ladies a long skirt or trousers is needed. Basically shoulders and knees can’t be seen, these amount to temptation apparently. If you wish to enter but don’t meet the dress requirements then you will be issued with something to wear. I for one would not want to have to wear that skirt, so I dressed for the occasion.

Holy Trinity Monastery

I elected to take the hike rather than drive from Kalabaka up to the first monastery. The path is accessible behind the Holy Temple of the Dormiton of the Virgin Mary. I couldn’t resist the urge to visit some churches along the way though. The first was a more modern Byzantine church called St Vissarion’s Church and bearing in mind that no photography is allowed in any of the monastery churches, this is therefore the perfect place to capture some of that art.

With my distractions out of the way I now joined the rock path up to the Holy Trinity Monastery. This monastery is famed in particular for its appearance in the James Bond 1981 movie For Your Eyes Only. The path from hotel to monastery was tough enough and has without a doubt quite a few hundred steps. Add that to the 150 steps into the monastery and it is indeed an arduous 3km. Entrance here is €3 as it is for all monasteries.

Inside the Holy Trinity

The monastery has 2 small chapels with murals. The one at the rear, though small has fine 18th century paintings. Looking back this was probably my least favourite of all the monasteries and the one which I would least recommend. It was an introduction to the pulley system through which all of the monasteries were previously accessed. The drop over the edge was dizzying. I would not be doing that ride. It was a wise idea to add all those steps in the 1920’s.

To the rear though is a yard and path that extends to the edge of the rock. It’s worth a clamber over the rocks to the cross and the scary as hell drop down to Kalabaka.

Leaving the monastery you can subsequently continue on to the circular Meteora road and a hike to the different monasteries, starting with the nearby Monastery of St Stephen. I however had left my car at the hotel, so back down that 3km I went. The hike was quite steep, which I noticed more on the way back down, and a well shaped stick now became my trusted best friend. Landing on your butt or back is a sure fire way to ruin a holiday (It happened on my last day in Thessaloniki, so I consider myself an expert on this). Bring hiking poles if you can.

St Nicholas Anapafsas Monastery

If you plan to take the road from Kalabaka, the quickest route heading North-West through Kastraki village sees you first and foremost arrive at the monastery of St Nicholas Anapafsas. Parking outside, the monastery is 80 metres above on the rocks. Yes it means more steps. Along with the 150 that lead inside. This monastery was founded in the 14th century, and in particular features frescoes by the painter Theofanis the Monk from 1527.

The monastery is built on a small rock so has the unique structure of being built up. It’s a three storey monastery, with a small chapel on the bottom floor, followed by a communal seating area. I was intrigued to find some monks here deep in discussion about theology. Or perhaps football, I couldn’t understand. Access to the church with the fantastic murals was also here, and to the rear a patio area with beautiful views.

But perhaps my greatest fascination with this monastery is with the fact it was built by two monks in the 16th century, and is now inhabited by just one. One man alone in this place is indeed interesting enough. But he works the cash desk and is even kind enough to give a postcard with his photo on it. Legend.

Following your visit, do walk up along the road if driving as the views back to the monastery are worthwhile.

Roussanou Monastery

With the steady increase in elevation, not only do the views get more spectacular but so too do the monasteries. Roussanou was founded in 1545 by two brothers, but has since been converted into a nunnery in 1988. It is the largest of any of the monasteries I had yet encountered. If travelling by foot a path leads from sunset rock direct to here and is also a handy shortcut if you need it.

Roussanou is impressive. It stands right on the roadside, as a massive hunk of rock descends upwards, to where it is perched. Nevertheless it looks like it could roll over at any minute.

Ascending the prerequisite 150 steps you arrive to the top of a rock, but not the one where the monastery sits. That is reached by a bridge. Below a colourful garden of flowers and crops grows. It’s something that in particular impressed me in this stark countryside, how the monks and nuns had cultivated the harsh land here to be fertile.

Views to die for

The nuns are strict within, and are quick to remind anyone raising a camera that this is indeed a holy place and photos are prohibited. That is, with the exception of the open outdoor area, where the views are impressive as anywhere when visiting Meteora.

The Byzantine church was the first to really impress me too. With two rooms the art was exemplary, and would set the standard for the three monasteries that would follow. The art follows the same ideology in all, with Jesus at the top of the cupola surrounded by the apostles, prophets and angels. But it’s the other room that caught my eye, the walls here were a series bible scenes of depictions of executions, decapitations, amputations and bodily disfigurations that I don’t know the word too. It’s all rather dark, morbid and completely fascinating. My favourite is the to me unknown monster who seems to be eating souls. Fascinating.

It was only just past noon, and I’d covered three monasteries and walked 10km. It was looking good for my ambition. After a refueling stop at a taberna in Kastraki, I was powered on by a delicious Greek Salad.

Varlaam Monastery

Varlaam would prove to be my favourite. First of all there’s the location, at the highest point of the road circling the Meteora. From a distance it is the most aesthetic and characteristic of all them. The views from the car park ranked best of all on my scorecards too. And that’s before I even stepped inside.

Varlaam was formed in 1542 by two brothers from the town of Ioannina. The church, a collection of three rooms, features reliefs from Frago Catelano, and are as sumptuously decorated as any in all the monasteries. Interestingly the net is still preserved that carried the monks up the cliff face. It was this net and rope that was referred to, in which the monks claimed they would use it until it was god’s will to have it replaced. Needless to say that means what you think it means. If your time is up, it’s up. The net carried everything up a staggering 373 metres. I guess this is where those vertical drop amusement rides got their inspiration.

Features of Varlaam

Varlaam was easily the biggest of the monasteries that I had thus far seen. Besides the aforementioned church there are a large number of visitable rooms, from the kitchen to the hospital, and the old refectory has been converted to a museum. And quite the museum too, featuring vestments and religious relics from over the centuries. But it’s greatest horde are it’s bibles and bible covers. All are elegantly decorated and a great exhibit of engraving and calligraphy.

The monastery also has in its possession a 16th century wooden barrel, still preserved and a great indication of the craftsmanship of the monks. It is said it was used to contain water. Personally I thought it would be fantastic for wine.

To the rear of the monastery is a spectacular balcony, decorated in flowers and centred on a pagoda. It’s the most elegant of all the monasteries to view on from here too. Basically, if you only plan to see one monastery at Meteora then I implore you to make it Varlaam. But why come all this way for just one.

Agios Stefanos Monastery

And so I had clocked up four and yet it was only approaching 3pm. I applauded myself on my planning and set off for the final monastery open on the day, Agios Stefanos or St Stephans Monastery. It was only opening at 3 anyway so my plan was to perfection. I stopped on a few hard shoulders along the way to admire the view, before finally arriving. A large crowd had amassed here so perhaps this wasn’t the ideal time to visit. One plus side was an English tour I found on site, and I inadvertently learned a little bit from them.

The monastery is not accessed by steps like the others but by a bridge, making it the only monastery suitable for wheelchairs and those with impaired movement. It was founded in 1545 by Hosios Antonios and Hosios Philotheos. In 1961 the monastery became a convent as nuns moved in. The convent has in fact two cathedrals owing to the older one being damaged by wars of the 20th Century. Bullet holes still grace it’s walls. Interestingly the artwork of the church is still being painstakingly restored, and it was an eye opener to see how the artists were working in tight cramped spaces.

From the back of the monastery there is again an exhilarating drop and this time the view is of the town of Kalambaka, stretching to the mountains beyond.

Sunsets while Visiting Meteora: Part 2

With time on my hands I did some more exploring of the area searching from the remnants of the some 24 monasteries that once stood in this area. The sun would set around 7pm again that evening so I set off again subsequently to catch that magical sunset. This time I choose the unnamed rock not far from sunset rock. It’s about 5 minutes walk in the direction of Great Meteoron. I also came armed with a more diverse range of techniques. I think the results turned out better. Do not miss the sunset in this location.

Great Meteoron

Even though it would have been possible to see Great Meteoron on the Wednesday and depart the area with all 6 monasteries seen, I was instead sidetracked by a trip to the excellent Vikos Gorge. So on the Thursday morning, I awoke with the plan of completing the set.

The first and largest of the monasteries, Great Meteoron. Meteoron of course means floating in the sky, and this monastery that give the area its name. The monastery was built in 1372 by a monk called Athanasios Koinovitis and his followers, who had left Mount Athos. Its church was added in the 15th century, when its decoration was completed too. The monastery looks huge too from ground level, and to make up for the lack of steps at St Stephan’s monastery, there are 250 here.

Much like Varlaam, here there is a number of museums, one of the religious relics, another dedicated to the period in Greece at the start of the 20th centuries, an the hardship and bravery during that period of war. A display on the skills of the monasteries coopers is excellent, and its kitchen also very beautiful. Its church is also quite stunning with the wonderful art you have come to expect by now.

Perhaps I was all monaster-ied out, but as yet I preferred Varlaam. The most stunning sight of Great Meteoron, is that from its steps, looking out to Varlaam. My final view of Meteora before I departed the area, was this. It is “the” definitive sight of visiting Meteora, and the one that perhaps will last longest in my memory.

Conclusion on visiting Meteora and all six monasteries

If you have two days on your hands then visiting all six is very much a possibility on a Meteora self guide tour. Just time a visit well and choose your monasteries wisely. Then strap on comfortable shoes, long pants, and witness this wonder of nature and man.

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Interlaken was where we first intended to base ourselves in Switzerland. A tourist town now of a few centuries, it lies between two incredible lakes, and takes its name form that fact. While it may have drawn my attention at first, Grindelwald soon consumed it, and then became the focus of our trip. However I couldn’t neglect the area that enticed me first, so we deliberated to spend a night here, as well as some time in the area en route to the Alps.

Our journey to Interlaken began on the second day of our trip as we left Bern. En route we would pass the twin lakes of the Thunersee and the Brienzersee. Lake Thun and Lake Brienz as I will from now refer to them (so much easier to spell) are astounding to see. The two lakes and this area of the Bernese Oberland are the main areas we covered in the Interlaken phase of our vacation. This are my suggestions on how to make the most of a stay in Interlaken.

Interlaken Points of Interest

The town of interlaken didn’t astound me as Grindelwald, Wengen and Lauterbrunnen did, but its not without merit. Its a bigger town owing to its location and prestige, and therefore has more options for dining and accomodation. The city was the site of great development around the 1900’s which saw a series of high class hotels been built. The development has continued since, and the town has lost some of its Swiss authenticity.

But not all. Interlaken is divided by the beautiful River Aare, which wowed me in Bern, and the area across the river is the oldest and the most quaint. Its enjoyable for a stroll, and there’s also the opportunity to visit the Tourismuseum, which seemed a little pointless to me. Instead I sought out some of the very interesting houses and mansions.

The other half of Interlaken centres on the Hohematte park, a large green area with views towards the mountains, which is surrounded by many of the top hotels. It’s a great place to watch paragliders as they swoop in to land, and in addition not a bad place for an interesting sunset either.

Stay at the perfect Interlaken hotel

We had no intention of staying at the five star Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa. We had always intended to keep our accomodation costs within reason, and Interlakens five stars certainly were not encompassed by this. Good fortune came in the form of a Dublin work colleague who got us a Leading Hotels of the World staff rate, which therefore knocked about 50% off the room rate. This good fortune doubled when we arrived at the hotel, and were offered an upgrade to a Garden Suite. The 65 meter squared suite would not normally return change out of a €1000, so needless to say we were ecstatic. It easily ranked as the top hotel we have yet stayed at on our travels.

Even without the deal of the century, the Victoria Jungfrau Hotel is highly recomended if you are looking for a little Swiss indulgence. From the first stroll down the columned lobby, it exudes style and class. Its many bars and restaurants have features which would not be out of place in palaces. Chandaliers, statues, stain glass windows and frescoed ceilings were everywhere. The winding stairs was one particular highlight of mine.

Top class luxury in Interlaken

Of course a hotel is only as good as its bedrooms, and when you get a suite you aren’t going to be disappointed. The room was exquisite with more features than a merc and toiletries than a pharmacy. The huge balcony overlooking the pool and mountains was the icing on top.

The hotel had the rare effect of curtailing my exploring plans for the day, (an extraordinary achievement in itself) and when my eyes were set on the pool, they were firmly lost. But a day spent soaking in the sauna, while the sun shines on your face isn’t really lost is it.

The breakfast the next morning was also the most complete spread of food I’ve ever seen at that time of day, with almost every ethnicity catered for. One more star over here please.

Eat Swiss Fondue at an Interlaken Restaurant

However it was our hunger on the previous night that got us back out into the town. Interlaken has quite a good range of options for dining, but we had only one thing on our minds. We had planned that this was where we would have Cheese Fondue, and after an online search, Restaurant Taverne was the winner of our custom. We were winners too. The restaurant had some interesting decor and was busy, so we struggled to get a table. Generally a good indicator of the food. Which was awesome. Free hors d’oeuvres, a delicious main course of ravioli, and the fondue was to die for. So rich and creamy. I can see what all the fuss is about.

Take the train to Harder Klum, the top of Interlaken

With our hunger having pulled us from our lazed state, the attractions of Interlaken were once again on my mind. Harder Klum is known as the top of Interlaken and is reached by a funicular scaling the mountain side. At 1300 metres above sea level, it provides panoramic views of Lake Thun and Brienz as well as Interlaken. It’s also said to have some of the best sunsets in the area, and with trains running until after 9pm, it seemed like the perfect way to round off our evening. Our plan was dashed though, as a thunderstorm warning was in effect. Standing on a steel platform overlooking a lake is not where I want to be as the sky plays fireworks.

Not to be undone, the next morning after breakfast I set out alone for Harder Klum. I misjudged the distance to the train station and practically had to run a four minute mile just to make it. It made for a sweaty train trip up the mountain.

The train trip up costs Fr 28 or around €25 return, and actually represents decent value by Swiss standards. The journey up takes around ten minutes, with the funicular running every thirty minutes.

Top of Harder Klum

Once you reach the top, you are met by the glorious views down below. Columbine flowers line the wooden fences of the pathway. A short walk takes you to the Panorama Restaurant (where I certainly didn’t go after my breakfast), and more interestingly the Two Lakes Bridge. Needless to say this is where the best views are of the two lakes below. Its a stunning vista and one of the more beautiful places I visited in Switzerland.

Day trips from Interlaken

A popular option to explore the Thun and Brienz lakes is by boat. If I had taken the popular advice and travelled by train, and purchased the Swiss Travel Pass then I would have done the same. Boats sail from Interlaken and stop at many of the towns and attractions along the way. For the best boats tours check out Get Your Guide. However as I’m ever the roadtripper, we set out to circumnavigate the lakes by road. Its highly recomended, with stunning views, and my ever preferred ability to stop at where you want along the way.

Giessbachfalle

The Giessbach Falls are one of the most impressive waterfalls in Switzerland, falling some 500 metres down into the lake below. This was to be our only major stop on Lake Brienz. However it nearly wasn’t, if GPS had its way; in the middle of a quite long tunnel, our tempermental friend encouraged us to take a non-existent turn off to reach them. The tunnel only ended a few kilometres later, at which point it recomended a u-turn. On the motorway. I advise you to ignore it completely, take the first left after the tunnel, and then the small road that runs above it. Signs for the waterfalls will lead the way. We were relieved to find the car park though. Remember to pay the Fr5 fee before heading off on foot. If you take the boat, a funicular will take you up to the Geissbach Falls.

It is advisable to wear waterproof clothing and hiking boots as the spray is quite strong. the terrain and steps are also on the rough side. Its also advisable to take it so you don’t have to run back to the car. The undoubted highlight of the falls is found higher up the path, where there is an opportunity to walk behind them. It’s such a fantastic experience and a reminder of all the best adventure movies from my childhood. There are no lost worlds to be found though, only great memories. Amazingly the area behind them is completely dry. The sun shining meant that the waterfall was crowned by little rainbows, for the perfect finish.

Have cake and coffee at the Giessbach Hotel

After a good hike and all that waterfall excitement, the GrandHotel Giessbach was perfectly located to chill out and enjoy the surroundings. Its elevated position above Lake Brienz is stunning and its worth have a snoop inside to see it’s rather grande decor. A stay here would be something I would happily consider on another visit. As it was today we settled for a cappuccino and apple tart, and a table on the balcony overlooking perfection. It was all rather reasonably priced too at Fr23, an added unexpected pleasure.

Drive around Lake Brienz

We continued our drive around Lake Brienz, through the town of Brienz itself. Its another of the many attractive towns within the country. With more time we would love to have stopped and taken the train up to the Brienzer Rothorn, but we had reached our train up to a viewpoint quota for that day. GPS encouraged us to take the motorway on the south of the lake back to Interlaken, but I was delighted I ignored it, as the north route was quiet and had extraordinary views over the lake.

Lake Thun

Lake Thun has more attractions than its compatriot, and the route along the north hugs the cliffs for much of the way. The drive takes you through tunnels and cut outs, and glimpses of the tantalising turquoise waters of the lake.

St Beatus Caves

St Beatus Caves are one of those two for the price of one attractions. Not only do you get caves, but you also get waterfalls that come streaming down the side of mountain. At Fr18 per person they are some expensive caves, but with the history and mythology attached to them, simply unmissable.

The lower part of the area, is a calming area of rock ponds, before you make the climb past the waterfalls. It is quite the climb up and definitely only for those with good mobility. But look at the views of the lake below.

The waterfall is truly impressive. But it doesn’t stop at just its looks. These particular falls provided inspiration to a particular J.R.R. Tolkien, who visited when young. From there the idea for Rivendell in Lord of the Rings was born. How awesome is that.

The Cave

With so much excitement already the caves were still yet to come. I made the rookie mistake of wearing shorts and a t-shirt in. I’ve never been in a cave that was warm and this was no exception either. So I froze my ass off for the 1 kilometre walk each way through the caves. There were many beautiful formation throughout the cave, but I am a little of the opinion that once you see one cave, you’ve seen them all. The naming of the cave was perhaps as interesting for me as anything, it takes its name from an Irish monk (go on the Irish) who entered the cave to slay a monster which inhabited it’s dark recesses. I can confirm that the monster no longer haunts these parts.

The hills beyond the caves have great hiking and one route leads directly to Interlaken.

Oberhofen

I couldn’t go on a trip and pass by a castle without stopping in. But Oberhofen is no ordinary castle. Perched on the edge of Lake Thun, it’s location is simply spectacular. Surrounded by a lush green park and floral gardens on one side, the other side is a harbour on Lake Thun. Little boats bob up and down and the harbour is lined by palm trees and red roses. Yes its perfection. And that’s before we get to the castle.

Oberhofen Castle

Oberhofen Castle dates originally from around 1200. It was built as a moated castle at that time and its image drastically differed from what it does now. Passing through the hands of the Habsburgs in the 14th century, its eventually found its way to be part of the expanding canton of Bern. Renovations from the 17th century meant that only the original keep was retained, before private ownership in the 19th saw a full scale rebuilding in the romantic style.

How romantic it looks now. The water tower with its pointed turret is the castles calling card. It reaches out into lake Thun, and is undoubtedly is its most photographed feature. But the whole building is immense, and surely Switzerland’s most impressive castle.

The castle is worth touring the inside too. It is now part of the Historical Museum of Bern, and priced at FR10, a visit easily within any budget. The rooms are well furnished and there’s quite a few rooms, all exhibiting life in the castle as it was in the 19th century, post renovation. There is fun to be had too, one room has a variety of hats to try one, for those who are happy to poke fun at themselves. Count me in.

Turkish Smoking Room

My advice within, is to keep climbing those stairs. Many visitors seemed to leave without reaching the library and the Turkish smoking room in particular. This was constructed in 1855 by Count Albert de Pourtales, who had spent time as a Prussian ambassador, and had been influenced by the stylings seen in Cairo. The influences are easily seen, the room is lavish and colourful, and a complete departure from all else in Oberhofen Castle. It was easily worth the admission price alone.

Thun

The town of Thun is one of those places which we only give a few hours, but would happily have spent a few days. A populace town, it has a dynamic atmosphere, set against some wonderful Swiss architecture. Some of the side streets however are a complete contrast and one wonders if they are in a ghost town. It’s a place both for introverts and extroverts. The town centre is further enhanced by buildings such as the Rathaus and the Kornhaus, and by the towns location on the River Aare. Keep an eye out for the old wooden bridges spanning the river. Another attractive facet of the town are its benches, each one unique and painted or designed in a specific way.

Thun Castle

Why would I only visit one castle when I can visit two. We parked at Parkhaus City Ost Schlossberg, which is an ideal car park to access most of the town. We took the lift from here down to the town, followed by an unusual tunnel reminiscent to “walking into the light” took us to Obere Hauptgasse. However from here a long stairway led to the castle and its location above the town. After huffing and puffing to the top, I found the same lift which I had earlier taken down. Another reason why that car park is so handy.

The castle has an entry fee of Swiss Fr10. Before you head in exploring have a walk around its ramparts, the views of the town are worthwhile and the castle is an interesting one. Thun Castle, and the current keep from the photo above, was constructed in the 12th century by the Duke of Zahringen. It then fell into the hands of the House of Kyburg, and its most infamous moment saw Eberhard II van Kyburg murder his brother for control. For two centuries they ruled, before the castle was bought by Bern. They at this point added the added the impressive wooden roof, circa 1430. After centuries as a prison and a local court, the castle now only serves as a museum.

Thun Castle Interior

My visit to Thun Castle started with a bang. Literally. While walking away from the desk and surveying the map I had taken, I went straight into a glass door. I was fine but the receptionist was very concerned. In keeping with my usual style, I casually made a joke about it and ran away. The castle interior is not particularly entertaining, with the exhibits being a little average. But much like in Oberhofen, its value lies in its top floors. Survey the mastery of that roof, and then take a step out on the turret facing east. The view left me speechless, stretching across the town, Lake Thun and to the Alps beyond. The singing of birds and the bells ringing in Thun Church, ensured I was dumbfounded.

Thun Church

I couldn’t bypass Stadkirche Thun having surveyed it from above. Constructed in 1330, the tower dates from then. The arched entrance is decorated with paintings from 1430, and is probably its highlight. The nave and altar were a little bland for me, having seen so many finely decorated churches throughout Europe, but one is free to walk around.

Conclusion on Interlaken

Interlaken, and the twin lakes of Thun and Brienz, are the gateway to the Alpine region of Jungfrau. Some skip their charms, but I advise to take time to discover this fascinating part of Switzerland en route.

For more on that region, I encourage you to check out my blogs, Why you must visit Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland, and Grindelwald, The Perfect Swiss Alps Base in Summer.

Please like, comment or share if you liked this blog. Happy travelling.

CarpeDiemEire

We approached from Lauterbrunnen, and for anyone who has read my previous blog, or is simply familiar with the valley, this left Grindelwald with a lot to live up with. Strangely photos of Grindelwald hadn’t overawed me, but again the internet is awash with uncomplimentary photos. Plenty of me on there too.

As soon as we left Lauterbrunnen behind and started to make our way through the adjacent valley which houses Grindelwald we were kept in our state of awe. Waterfalls large and small fell from the cliff side, before they gave way to the sprawling town. The whole place is surrounded by large peaks, none more impressive than the brooding Eiger, its north face snow packed.

Why we chose Grindelwald as our Swiss summer base

Grindelwald‘s Stunning Views

Grindelwald has an appearance of constant greenery and many efforts are made to maintain this. Its a series of rolling hills all covered in bright green grass, with footpaths strewn among them. Walking on the long grass isn’t permitted and from a distance it appears the houses are just littered in fields. Its beautiful.

But Grindelwald isn’t all just green grass and houses. It is of course in the shadow of many mountains, and they are a playground of great activities. There are no fewer than twelve distinct mountain peaks, among them the Mittelhorn, Shreckhorn, and Wetterhorn. We didn’t manage any of these, but we did make it up to First Mountain, one of the minor ones at only 2168 metres high.

The sound of crickets and birds resonates around the valley and the views are some of the most stunning I have beheld.

Our Grindelwald Hotel

Our Grindelwald Hotel for out three night stay was the Hotel Glitscherblick, a Swiss Chalet style hotel, with a wooden and floral appearance. As a three star we weren’t looking for opulence, and its location, set upon one of those rolling hillsides meant it was a ten minute walk from the town. It was easy downhill, but a struggle back up at the end of the day.

Despite its no frills approach the hotel endeared itself to us. Our host Rafaela, while not of the region, was extremely knowledgeable and beyond helpful. The friendliness of the Swiss is another positive attribute of a sensational country. We were given a pass which gave us a discount on some local attractions, and free usage of the towns public bus, which we never used. Rafaela was more than happy to offer in depth advice on anything local, and her ability to predict the weather was uncanny.

The hotel came with a kitchen area to cook your own food. There was always juices, water and coffee lying around for guests to help themselves to. Breakfast was served from here for the three days and had just enough variety to keep us interested. Our room again was comfortable and clean, while certainly not over the top in extravagance.

The Eiger North Face Views

While all of that was perfectly adequate and amounted to a nice stay, the location of the hotel is where plaudits must come. The patio and more importantly, our balcony, faced the Eiger north face. What a sublime view we were treated too. Sitting between two other mountains, the Eiger’s north face stands defiantly. It is 1200 meters of sheer snow and rock even in summer, and a stunning backdrop to any view. Better still when you can sit and have a glass of wine and appreciate it.

Staying in Grindelwald

The hotels are Grindelwald are all remarkably similar in price to each other. The best rated medium range include the Sunstar Hotel, Hotel Belvedere, Lifestyle Hotel, and the Hotel Alpenhof. At the upper end Boutique Hotel Glacier offers more modern facilities. Budget hotels are scarce as in most of Switzerland.

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Grindelwald Town

Grindelwald first appeared in texts around the 12th century, but many archaeological finds from before this date were found in the area. Its greatest role in history probably was at this time when Duke Berthold of Zahringen, defeated a coalition army of nobles in the Grindelwald valley. This allowed him to expand his territories in the Berner Oberland, and as a result to found the city of Bern, the Swiss capital.

The town then fell under the direction of the powerful Interlaken monastery for many centuries. Grindelwald did have castle overlooking it in the late middle ages, but this has long disappeared. Its church is the only remnant of times past, but this has been rebuilt four times, finally in 1793.

The village you see today is one that grew from the tourism explosion of the late 19th century. Its a town built for year round visitors, to the snow peaks in winter, but also for the summer explorer. There are no shortage of Swiss chalets, and the synonymous blend of sculpted wood, wooden window shutters and flower boxes was everywhere. Its a look I could never grow tired of looking at.

The town is so attractive throughout, and while it won’t take you an afternoon to explore, it will delight you each time you wander in search of food. The central square has intriguing carvings of local wildlife, and with the towns backdrop, perfect for taking photos.

How to get to Grindelwald

Grindelwald is well served by both road and rail links. Lying only 20 km from Interlaken it’s easily driven reached on surprisingly flat roads. I expected more altitude gaining hairpin bends. It also has a railway station with lines coming from Interlaken and Lauterbrunnen, but also going on deeper into Jungfrau, to Kleine Scheidegg and Jungfraujoch, the station located at the top of Europe. For more info consult the jungfrau.ch site.

Fantastic Feasts and where to find them in Grindelwald

Eating in Switzerland was always a challenge, and a balancing act between necessity and what we considered good value. The general rule is ethnic restaurants are better value, with Swiss restaurants been the most expensive. For the best value, supermarkets are always the way to go, and there is one option in Grindelwald. Coop is very central and has hot food options, but closes at 7pm. We took some food back to our hotel on day one in Grindelwald, and subsequently decided to eat out our other days there. As a lunch option its perfect.

Our two best recommendations on where to dine out ( based on where we ended up) are Hotel Steinbock, and Alte Post Restaurant. Hotel Steinbock’s specialty is pizza and grill, and we both settled on the half roast chicken with chips. For Fr 57 for two with some soft drinks its somewhat reasonable too. Alte Post satisfied our desire to eat Swiss Cervelat sausage with rosti, even if, ahem the sausage was a bratwurst. Don’t tell anyone. This was better value at Fr 42.

Best Things to do in Grindelwald Switzerland in Summer

Grindelwald really comes into its own with its outdoor activities. Hiking trails lead in every direction. Honestly we didn’t hike as much as we should/ could have. The area has some impressive hiking trails including the massive Eiger trail and the First loop. Here are my best suggestions on how we tried to the most of the towns facilities.

Hiking to the Grindelwald glacier

Firstly let me put it out there that this was a massive travel fail. I had read that the Oberer Grindelwald glacier could be hiked to, but i’m not sure how up to date my source was. But don’t let that put you off this hike. I drove to a location at the Hotel Wetterhorn, where the parking lot is the ideal starting point for a hike upwards. As I climbed I met a local, and that’s where the harsh reality that my endeavor was futile kicked in. Access was no longer possible here as the glacier had receded over the past years and was now inaccessible.

Plan b brought me back to the hotel and to seek out a different route. However late snow meant that some routes were not open, due to the risk of avalanches. But, and thankfully there is a but, the Hehlischopf area that I found myself in was blessed with stunning views. The map below is a handy overview for hikes in this area.

Hotel Wetterhorn is also an ideal starting point for a hike up to Pfinstegg, which is worth a visit. I backtracked here because Pfinstegg was very much on our itinerary.

Pfinstegg Summer Toboggan

Returning to the hotel from my aimless hike I picked up Beata before heading to the Luftseilbahn cable car station. As earlier mentioned it is possible to hike up the area, roughly being an hours hike from Grindelwald. The cable cars cost Fr 22.40 for two, using the discount from the hotel. It’s a good flight over the town of Grindelwald too, with the best aerial views that we experienced of its green pastures and chalets.

The summer Toboggan run is the highlight of the station up here, but the facilities also include a cafe and playground. Lockers are provided for free so you can engage in the fun without any worries for your personal belongings. The Pfinstegg Toboggan costs Fr 6 per run and it may take a few goes to get a feel for it. It’s cuts a zigzag path down the grassy mountain side, with great views down below to the town.

It’s a circular route with a lift that takes you back up to the starting point, should walking up a hill not be your thing (hard thing to avoid in Switzerland though). You determine the speed by pushing forward on the lever, so if you give it enough welly it can hit up to 45/ph. I wouldn’t advise it on the bends though. To get the best out it, let whoever is in front of you get a good head start, so the only one slowing you down is yourself. Here’s a video of my second attempt.

Grindelwald First Mountain – Top of the Grindelwald things to do

First Mountain is the main centre for summer sports in Grindelwald and with its selection rightly so. At 2168 metres it’s minor compared to its neighbouring peaks but that means it’s accessible and has much to offer on its flat summit.

Firstly let’s get basics out of the way. You can hike from Grindelwald up the 1000 metres rise of the trail to First, which I wouldn’t fancy. A hike down is the more taken on challenge, and we met several people who were doing this. The easier route takes you to the gondola station in Grindelwald. Now comes the tough news.

If you have invested in a Swiss Rail Pass (more on that in my Lauterbrunnen blog) then you have already felt the pinch. If you haven’t like I, then brace yourself. Choosing to undertake one activity each at the top, the total cost worked out at Fr 134, or a whopping €120. If I was making a habit of this I would buy that pass. At least it was a return ticket.

From here it’s a good 40 minute cruise from the town, past meadows and ever impressing views, before the green gives way to snow as you approach the summit. Just enough time for me to get over the financial shock. The summit is the last of three stations, with the option to dismount and start hiking at each points.

First Mountain Activities

Once on the summit, you’ll be glad you took your jacket and warm clothes (did I mention it’s a must here). The temperature drop is huge, and it was 9 degrees in June. But there’s plenty to get that blood flowing again. First’s main attraction is it’s 800 metre zip line, the First Flieger. But besides that there’s the First Cliff Walk, the First Glider and the First Mountain Carts. The First Glider is a reverse zip line where you and three others are sent back up on a glider before thundering back down. The mountain carts allow you to traverse down to the lower stations, using the altitude as your accelerant. The other two we tried for ourselves.

But the fun doesn’t stop there. The hills are alive with great trails linking much of the region. From my first (no pun intended) research of this area the hike to Lake Bachalpsee was a must for me. It’s a secluded glacial lake, surrounded by peaks and in a word, heavenly. The 6km circular route is a relatively easy hike too. But the late snow had the last word on it; the lake walk was closed due to avalanche risk. We may not have made it there, but you can read the full guide here on hiking to Bachalpsee from My Faulty Compass.

For a full list of hikes and activities at First, the Jungfrau.ch website is a great resource. The area also plays host to a large restaurant. Ones ticket gives you free reign to travel up and down in the gondolas to your hearts desire.

First Cliff Walk by Tissot

The First Cliff Walk thankfully was very much open. And amazingly free. It’s a suspended walk around the top of the mountain. Wobbly knees and good views are guaranteed, as well as come spectacular photos. The walk reached its climax with an elevated platform that extends out from the cliff, suspended and supported only by what hopes is Swiss engineering. Besides the inevitable queue to take ones place at the end, it lives up to its thrilling billing, and spectacular shots are a guarantee.

First Flieger – The most fun to be had in Grindelwald

First Flieger or First Flyer is the 800 metre zipline that descends from the top station at First down to the second station. Its top speeds are said to hit 84 km/hr. The queue when we arrived was said to be an hour long, so we made it our intention to do it first. That hour did no favours for our nerves, and we honestly thought twice about doing it. The longest zip line I ever done prior was about 20 metres. But the conversation with a fellow Irishman we met in the queue meant the time ticked away quickly.

We need not have worried. Soon we were strapped in and braced for the worst. The instructors were an affable bunch, making jokes about the age of the seat, and keeping us for what seemed an eternity waiting. The zipline gates flew open, and all our worries subsided in an instant. It was a stunning experience to glide through the air, and it certainly never felt we hit those speeds. The snow covered landscapes and mountain top vistas were given a new viewpoint with our descent. Were it not for the hour queue we would happily have gone again. It stands as my most easily recomendable experience in Grindelwald.

Glacier Canyon Grindelwald

The Gletscherschlucht Grindelwald is located about 2 kilometres from the town centre. It’s easily reached by local bus line 2 or car and there is plenty of parking at the location. A restaurant is among the facilities here. Entry cost me Fr 17. Its advisable to wear hiking gear inside, it is wet and with the wind cutting through the canyon, quite cold. The canyon was formed by the lower Grindelwald glacier, which has receded leaving the narrow canyon behind. The entrance is through a cave, and with the classical music playing here, has an ethereal feeling. From here it opens out into the narrow canyon with the large walls extending far above.

A path is built into the rock face that cuts through the rock face at times. The circa one kilometre long route brings one alongside the glacial river, which at one point is supplied by a waterfall. Perhaps the highlight within for me was the opportunity to drink glacial water. Spouting from within a cave from a spring in the wall, the water was near freezing, and as refreshing as any I have ever tasted. Man made attractions can be found inside too, such as the spider web, a net suspending you above the river.

Take a Trip to Lauterbrunnen

If you haven’t already done so on the way to Grindelwald then take that trip to Lauterbrunnen now. For full suggestions on how to get there and to make the most of it, check out my blog on why you must visit Lauterbrunnen.

Re-live some Sound of Music magic

Ok so maybe this would be more appropriate around the Interlaken area, but sometimes you have channel your inner Julie Andrews. Here I am make an enormous fool of myself.

Thoughts on Grindelwald Switzerland

Grindelwald Switzerland in summer is the perfect location for a trip and an ideal base for exciting activities. It’s very accessible by car and train, and has many rail and cable car links on into the Alps. It has a wonderful atmosphere, friendly locals and astounding scenery. Give this area a go, you won’t regret it as the base for your Swiss adventure.

Other blogs from my Swiss Travels

If you liked or were inspired by this blog, a comment, pin or share would be much appreciated.

Many thanks for reading,

Carpediemeire

As someone who comes from Ireland driving a car on mainland Europe was always going to be a challenge. Most of the countries that still drive on the left are ex- British colonies. That does account for 34% of the world population and surprisingly 76 countries. But besides the UK and Ireland, only Malta and Cyprus drive on the left in Europe with most of the rest being in Australasia, the Caribbean or Southern Africa.

History of driving in Europe and the world

In fact the history of why it differs is a fascinating one. Historically all traffic was on the left, from the point of view of mounting a horse this made sense and the ability to unleash a sword on attackers favoured being on the left. With the advent of large wagons a shift was made to the right but was never entered into law. The Napoleonic wars saw the first major international  shift, as all countries conquered changed to the right. Those that resisted stayed left.

It was only in the 20th century, and again due to a war, as Hitlers conquering German army, demanded countries under his dominance to change. The US gradually changed after gaining independence but some states still drove left until decrees in the last century. Many old colonies of European states were not required to change with their invaders and so we have our world picture.

So with all that confusion and changing is it surprising we feel the same when required to drive on the “other side”. 

The history of my driving

Let me clarify, I don’t think I’m a bad driver. I had no accidents, no injuries, and no major incidents. But I have had a long succession of minor incidents, all of which have been overshadowed by the sheer beauty which have set my eyes on over many road trips.

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Top Tips for Driving in Europe

Driving in Italy 2011

I first rented a car in Italy in 2011 when staying in the Rimini area of the country. The first thirty minutes of having the car were uneventful. So uneventful that I never left the parking lot of the rental company. I was nervous as hell and couldn’t get used to the gear stick being on my right instead of my left. So rather than take to the roads I drove around the parking lot. I’m quite surprised looking back that they didn’t come out and take the car back of me. Not the best start to driving in Europe.

Familiarise yourself with the car.

But slowly the nerves subsided and I tackled the roads. The car gave me liberties I perhaps wouldn’t have had at our uneventful seaside location. The beach usually keeps me entertained for about ten minutes before my mind drifts to more cultural and historical sights.  I drove north to Ravenna to be wowed by its churches and fine murals. To the south the towns of Ancona, and the hilltop fortress of Gradara were reached through lands of rolling hills.

San Marino

Buoyed by the confidence I now felt, we then travelled to San Marino. San Marino is the fifth smallest country in the world, and the oldest surviving republic, dating back to the third century, It is built atop a large hill, with its summit being Monte Titano, rising to 749 metres above sea level. To drive there, there are a series of switchbacks before you are required to abandon your car in one of its many car parks and continue on foot.

The views across the countryside are naturally wonderful and as you progress through the medieval townscape, they naturally increase. They culminate in the fortress at the top, which clings to the mountain top and dominates the state. Atop those battlements you could be in a different time, as the land below shrinks from view and fades. And so began my love affair of road trips in Europe.

Driving in Poland 2012

I had travelled to Poland on many occasions but this was to be the first when I would drive. I had enjoyed my experience in Italy, despite my nervy start. We would rent from the beautiful city of Torun before driving north to Gdansk and heading out to the Baltic. It was all well planned, so what could possibly go wrong.

Expect the unexpected is a good mantra to live by.

The rental was a Skoda Octavia. It was a nice spacious car, and Skoda had recovered from the reputation they garnished in decades past. Getting the keys, I set out. Or rather I didn’t. Again I was stuck in the car park. Except this time I was stuck in the parking space. Reverse was in a position I was unfamiliar with, down to the right, over to the side, and back up. The car constantly found fifth, no matter what I did. Not the start I wanted. Eventually it clicked and after ten minutes I left my parking space. A few minutes of nervous driving around the car park and we were set.

Torun

Torun’s city centre was marvellous, having survived both wars without damage. It’s one of Poland’s oldest cities, and is still much surrounded by its original walls. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But for every positive walking its streets, it threw up as many negatives when driving. A mass scale roadwork project was underway and with road closures and diversions it threw my navigation into turmoil. I’ll be honest reading Polish road signs wouldn’t be a skill I’ll list. This was never more obvious than when I was turning onto a motorway around the city.

Traffic lights green. Check.

Right hand side of road. Check.

Road sign saying something. Checked but didn’t understand.

So I pulled onto the three lane motorway, which in my vicinity was empty. Up ahead it wasn’t. Those three lanes were full of traffic all moving. Except they were moving in MY direction. And fast. I’ve never done a u-turn as swift and to this day I don’t know why a motorway would be reversed. Lets call that one a lucky escape.

and onto North Poland

So we travelled north to Gdansk, before hitting the Baltic. The cars gear box kept annoying the hell out of me. It was only surpassed by the hotel we were staying in forgetting our reservation and putting us in the smallest, dingiest, crappest room I’ve ever seen. I may have been a cupboard. Ferry rides and sunsets on the Baltic made things a little better.

As we returned to Gdansk and to leave back the car, I found second and fourth gear near impossible to find and the penny finally dropped; it wasn’t me, the gearbox was going in the car. This was corroborated by the rental company when I returned it. Before I did though I had one final drama, I couldn’t open the cap on the fuel tank. Luckily the rental company weren’t far away and they came to my rescue, much to my embarrassment.

Driving in Spain 2013

We stayed for a week in Malaga in 2013, which would be my next driving in Europe adventure, and while the city provided ample amounts of sea, sun, good food, and history I can’t resist the urge to explore further. So we rented a car and took the bus out of the city to collect, only to realise I forgot my passport.

Always remember to bring your passport, driving licence and relevant documents when renting cars.

So three bus rides later we had our motor. After my usual nervous start and slow acclimatization to the differences, we spent the day exploring some of the Costa Del Sol and Marbella. It was enough time to know these places were not for me.

The Sierra’s of Andalucia

The subsequent day we pointed north into the Sierras. This was more me. The road stretched into the cactus covered hills. Anytime we paused the sound of crickets filled the air. It’s one of my lasting memories of the landscape. Neither can I forget the hazardous hiking path at El Caminito Del Rey ( which has now been modernised, needless to say I didn’t attempt the old wooden one), nor the brilliant green lakes outside the whitewash town of Ardales, at Embalse Del Conde de Guadlahorce. Rondas gorge top location was next and its magnificent bridge before we descended from our mountain location via about a thousand hairpin turns. I began to embrace the notion of driving in Europe.

Driving in Sicily 2014

When I told some people that I planned to rent a car In Palermo and drive across Sicily, I was asked many questions.

Are you mad?

Haven’t you heard how the drivers are there?

Don’t you know they are among the worst in Europe and even more volatile than in Rome?

Online I found no solace, just more sources to back up the claims. So I stopped checking online and listening to my friends.

Palermo

After two days in Palermo, we picked up our car from its downtown location. Which happened to be beside the busiest street in the city, and that’s exactly where the GPS sent me. There simply didn’t seem to be an alternative. So into the roaring fire I went.

So lets set the picture on this. There are two wide “lanes” of traffic going each way. Which suggests two rows of cars in each direction. Nope. Lanes counted for nothing here. If there was any space a car drove into it. No matter where it was. So it looked as if there were eight rows of traffic across the road. It was bumper to bumper, and if you wanted to get anywhere you had better drive very progressively.

It was here I learned the technique of accelerate, brake and honk, all in one movement. If you are going to drive in Palermo then you sure as hell better drive how they do. Incidentally it was on this road that I finally became fully comfortable with driving in Europe on the right. I never felt nervous stepping into a rental car again. So I thank those many insane drivers of Palermo for that.

A sweet journey

Finally leaving the manic streets of Palermo behind we sailed south towards Agrigento, our first stop on our island tour. We stopped for coffee at what will always be my favourite service station, because it was here I was introduced to Cannoli. Its got very little to do with driving, but driving is always better with something sweet and good coffee.

GPS then gave me good reason to not always place my faith in it, as it took us off the main road, before bringing us on to increasingly smaller ones. I went with it as it often does this in Ireland. Even when it took us onto a narrow road with grass growing up the middle I presumed it was a shortcut. Again common in Ireland. When we saw a tractor in the middle of the road up ahead, suddenly the doubt crept in. As we got closer we realised the tractor had probably been there about ten years and the grass had grown into it and through it. I got to practice my reversing skills.

Realmonte

Back on route the GPS seemed unaware of its blip and took us back to the main road. We arrived in Realmonte near Agrigento without incident. The rest of the trip was a treat, the white cliffs at Realmonte still rank as my favourite sunset, the Valley of the Tepmles was astounding, and our route east took us through the scenic towns of Enna and Ragusa. We were based in Taormina for a week, but that’s a story for another day.

Don’t always rely on GPS, sometimes it even loses its head.

Driving in Lisbon 2015

Despite my new-found confidence behind the wheel, 2015 was a year for city breaks, and I only spent one day behind the wheel on a left hand drive. But a worthwhile day nonetheless. Driving a Fiat 500 from my by now favourite rental company, Rentalcars.com, we visited Sintra, which is a micro-climate area near Lisbon. The escape of kings and queens of Lisbon for many centuries now, it is also the perfect escape for visitors of the magnificent city.

You can read how we got on there in A Day Trip to Sintra  which if you do, you will know that this is the only place where I cannot recommend driving in Europe. We did get to Praia de Adraga, a remote beach on the Atlantic Coast, so it wasn’t all a negative. GPS played some tricks on me on the return trip too. Since when is a car rental agency a service station?

Sometimes a car is not always the best option- do your research.

Driving in Iceland 2016

For anyone who has driven in Europe, Iceland has to rank as one of the top places for a road trip. With thundering waterfalls, vast lava fields, gushing geysers, snow-capped volcanoes and remote glaciers, what more can you realistically ask for. It’s incredible landscape is ever-changing, even after every downfall of rain, as new waterfalls appeared from the top of roadside mountains. Its beautiful and rather distracting. Luckily the roads aren’t busy, and there are many many opportuinities to pull in and gawp.

We spent five days travelling from Reykjavik and across the south coast but realistically could spend many more. We took in the Golden Circle, the waterfalls of Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss, and the south coast as far as Vik, and many thermal, geological and geographical wonders. Our rental was a Ford Mondeo, which cannot be faulted and an estate is a perfect car for Iceland in the summer months, if you don’t plan on veering too far off route one. It was our greatest experience driving in Europe. So for once a perfect rental without any problems…

All fine in Iceland

….That is until the morning of our flight home. We were staying near the airport, in a less than perfect B&B, and had packed all for our early flight. Awaking drowsily around 3:30am, we grabbed all our stuff to take to the car, only for the question to arise, where are the keys?

We turned the room upside down, but nothing!

Maybe I left them in the car? No!

Lost them in the car park? Didn’t think so but I retraced my steps everywhere. Not a trace!

We emptied our suitcases, turned everything we had inside out, but no sign.

So I had to face up the truth. They were gone. Forever!

So was €250, the charge for losing your keys. Iceland is expensive enough, without any extra charges.

Facing the truth

With our flight time fast approaching I bit the bullet and called the rental company. They were understanding but explained the policy. I accepted and they said they would send someone out to pick us up. Arriving I met him in the car park, explained the situation and we hurried into the bedroom. After a quick look around, he went straight to the bed, threw the mattresses on the floor, and lo and behold there were the keys sitting on the beds base. It wasn’t the first time he had seen this happen. A few high fives later, he left with the new title of “****ing legend”, and we were on our way to the airport, heavy with shame, but always better than light of pocket. Morale of the story is, don’t throw your keys on the bed as I probably did.

Don’t lose your car keys the morning of the flight

Driving in Hungary 2017/18

Needless to say I kept a sharp eye on mt keys from this point on. Two trips to Hungary within two years saw a number of road trips, and surprisingly no real incident. We did get an upgrade on our rental  last time, to an SUV. The east of the country was our playground, and we travelled much of the Great Plain, a steppe running through the heart of the region. The long stretches of flat land were beautiful, a far cry from the glacially sculpted hills and mountains of Ireland. Its prize is certainly Hortobagy, with a  culture and heritage reminiscent of the cowboys of the wild west (minus the guns). Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I shared my reverence for their way of life in my blog Exploring the Hungarian Puszta.

Northern Hungary

To the north of the country lie the more hillied wine lands of Tokaj and Eger. This is where Hungary’s world-famous wines are produced and at the centre of the regions lie the respective town and city. Our trips into these areas uncovered some incredible sights, from the vine-covered slopes, to wonders created by man and nature in the Matra Mountains, or a clever fusion of the two. Hungary wouldn’t be a country which would spring to mind for a voyage of discovery, but marriage introduced me to its delights.

Car’s introduce you to places you never knew existed

Driving in Santorini 2017

2017 also saw the year of our wedding. We wedded in Ireland with our honeymoon in Santorini, after a few days in Athens. With a line up of wonderful hotels, excellent activities, and mouth-watering restaurants, we had it all planned to perfection. The towns of Fira and Oia lived up to our imagination, and the caldera and views were truly captivating.

Yes, all we planned was perfect, except for our car rental, which we didn’t really focus on till late and wasn’t really a priority. The island is easy to get around by bus, and with some of its roads, perhaps a bus is the best recommendation. On reflection every car on the island seemed to have a dent somewhere. But I’m a sucker for a rental, and when an email arrived in my inbox from a well-known budget airplane operating out of Ireland (who I won’t name and shame), the price was too good to be true. We took a car for four days, a Ford Fiesta being perfect for the island.

Anything but perfect

Inevitability it was too good to be true, and was far from what we expected. The car, an ancient Honda Civic got us around, just, but the last thing you would say it had was a healthy purr, there was a lingering smell of fumes, the key was held together by tape, and the expected Ford Fiesta was an ancient Honda Civic.

The cheapest option is not always the best.

Click to view slideshow..

Driving in Holland 2018

It has always been a bucket list item of mine to see the Dutch tulip fields in full bloom. April of 2018 would be the time when I would cross that off. We took a route through several towns built on canals, and on into the Lisse area of the country. The tulip fields blew my mind, rarely in my life have I seen such brilliant colours in nature. The windmill town of Zaanse Schans, was the other principal focus of our drives, its riverside setting among the most attractive in The Netherlands.

Having promised myself to never rent from the previous company again, and even complaining on my return (futilely), I still did it. I fell for the same half price email again. Naturally I was reminded later of the expression “Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me.”

Playing the fool

Sadly it did live up to expectations. The car a Ford Focus was covered in dents, there was no snag list which was alarming, it had the prerequisite smell of fumes, and despite me requesting a manual I was given an automatic. This may not seem like a biggie, but it would be my first time to drive an automatic. Because of the lack of a clutch I suffered from severe left leg confusion and on a few times it found its way on to the brake, causing me to jam on, when I only wanted to change gears.

Choose a transmission that you are comfortable with when driving in Europe.

2019

2019 has come and gone and more new countries are under my driving belt. And all went smoothly of course. The end. Wait, Hell no it didn’t it never does with car rental!

Driving in Hungary & Romania 2019

A day trip to Romania and my first ever physical border crossing would provide something of a challenge. Taking a rental often occurs an extra cost which we paid on returning. It’s also good to be up front about it to the rental agency. They will provide usual information on where you are travelling to as well.

As soon as I started the engine and turned on GPS I made my first mistake. Somehow our arrival time was going to be an hour later than I had projected. I was confused until I figured out Romania lay in another time zone. Bummer. I was already an hour late.

Learn your time zones before crossing borders

Oradea, Romania

The roads left a lot to be desired through rural eastern Hungary but we made it to Oradea without getting lost in a pothole. It was on this trip the Google Maps earned the nickname Hermie. Hermie again proved a problem as I missed the same turn three time in Oradea, due to confusing directions.

Oradea was an architectural delight, full of secession buildings. You can read more on that Romanian day trip here.

The journey home was where it got interesting. The journey over only had border patrol on the Romanian side and I assumed the same for the return journey. So having passed over my papers to the first personnel I met, I took off past the others that were standing around and into Hungary. A lot of arm waving, shouting and thankfully no shooting convinced me to reverse back to some bemused Hungarian officials.

Take it slowly on border crossings. Don’t risk going down in a blaze of bullets.

Driving in Switzerland 2019

Ah Switzerland. A paradise of magnificent mountains, pristine lakes and gorgeous chalets. Where nothing is ever late due to Swiss timing. Where nothing is to be a fearing because of Swiss engineering. And nowhere is as blatant as on its roads in the form of the elongated tunnels that cut through mountains and around cities. They really are a marvel…that is, till you are a tourist who relies on GPS to get around. Damn you again Hermie. Offline maps or online maps, the result was the same, no maps in the tunnels.

We had rented a car through RentalCars.com (this link is an affiliate one, so bear me in mind when you are renting next) and the local provider was Thrifty. In advance we picked a Ford Fiesta, partially because I was warned that the speed limits are low in Switzerland, and speeding is heavily punished, so I thought a Fiesta might curtail me. They offered me a choice of a Citroen C3 or a Hyundai i20. Thinking to myself that those Citroens are no slouches, I therefore went with the Hyundai. Except when we got outside our luggage wasn’t getting in its boot. So reluctantly I took the Citroen.

We packed all our stuff in, and I sat behind the wheel, put my foot on the clutch…except I didn’t, as the car was an automatic. Oh how I hate automatics. I returned to the desk, again, and third time was the charm, with a manual Mazda 2, and finally we were on our way to Bern.

While hunting the Giessbach Falls we entered a 4 lane tunnel that was about 3 km long. Hermie (legend) suggested we take a right hand turn halfway through the tunnel. Into a brick wall! I didn’t and with that Hermie lost the plot, repeatedly encouraging me to do a u-turn in a motorway like tunnel. It was at that point we no longer sought it’s opinion and we found our own way to the falls.

France

We rented our car from Basel Airport and took it to France. But not before a word of warning from the rental agent. So Basel airport is in France. But we couldn’t take the car back to the French part without incurring a penalty. We had to drive back to Basel in Switzerland in order to drive back to France to get to the airport. Confused? You can bet I was too.

And that was only the start of it. On the way back to the airport I approached Basel only to be met by …. a huge tunnel. My nemesis. As soon we entered the GPS showed the white glad and surrendered. Hermie became a haemorrhoid for me.

Suddenly I was fearing Swiss engineering.

Particularly when the turn for the airport passed me by and GPS still said it was 2km away. The tunnels must have stretched for 10km with bad traffic. I was getting late for my rental return and I was in the wrong country. Then I remembered that roads have colourful things on the side with writing and directions on them. Commonly known as signs. This one was particularly useful. ✈️ Apparently it shows you where the airport is. And it did.

Sometimes you have to get back to basics and follow the signs.

Driving in Greece 2019

A 1000 kilometre road trip through Northern Greece, was an undisputed highlight of the year. Despite the many mountains, my car, a Skoda Citigo, proved to be more than its name suggested. It wasn’t the best on dirt tracks but I perhaps shouldn’t have given it at that test.

Cars with 1 litre engines are not 4*4’s.

The trip took in the shimmering Mount Olympus, home of the Greek gods of old; then Meteora, those series of monasteries that sit atop rock columns; and finally the area around the Vikos Gorge, one of the world deepest. The scenery was incredible and the roads mountainous to put it lightly. Yet for all the sheer drops and cut back it was a delight.

Police Problems

Driving in Greece is a challenge though. Speed limits are in place, but there are no limits it seems. 70 kmph zone? Everyone fizzes by at 140. Tunnels limited to 80. Double that in reality. As this was my first time driving on the mainland I took it handy. And yet on the way back from Vikos at a police checkpoint I got pulled over.

The first thing that was in my head was, I don’t know any Greek.

The second; what could I have done wrong.

As I opened my window, I was met but a string of Greek. I fumbled an apology and asked if he spoke English. He asked for my licence so I flicked it out of my Segrid wallet. He looked surprised then asked me to open the boot. My boot only had my camera gear which prompted the officer into a conversation about where I had been and some recommendations about good places to go. He then called his buddy over and asked me to put my licence back in my wallet and take it back out again. They marvelled at the way the Segrid wallet worked, and he told his mate he wanted one. I still don’t know why I was pulled over but I wish all police altercations were this easy. Like that time in Latvia when I ran away from one instead of paying a bribe.

Play it cool when pulled over by the local police.

Thessaloniki

The final stop on my trip was Thessaloniki. Driving here was a real challenge. It’s loud, noisy, chaotic, insert adjective here. I had decided to go to an underground car park, but when I got to the entrance, a car was coming at me up the ramp and a woman started shouting at me on the footpath. I got out of there fast. Circling around again I couldn’t find another entrance so settled on a place with valet parking. My possessions were fine but I still felt I was robbed when leaving.

Then came the real challenge. Finding the hotel. All was ok until the road I needed to take was closed for roadworks. And everything around it was one way leading me away. And further away. Then there was the roundabouts. I got chastised if I didn’t drive progressively on them. I got chastised if I didn’t let cars pull in front of me. Finally I found a circular route taking me to the hotel. In the end a 5 minute trip took 30.

It’s probably best to avoid driving in Greek and Italian cities if you can.

My Advice to anyone considering Driving in Europe

Much like anything practice makes perfect. So I’m hoping one day to get there. While all my stories have their errors and a somewhat humorous side looking back, I tried to draw a lesson from them all.

Choose a rental company that you trust and stick with them (advice which I now follow). I use Rentalcars.com for driving in Europe, I’m not saying they are necessarily the best but they serve me well. Following that link will serve me well too. Take full insurance in advance of travelling, because you can never be too prepared. And have fun seeing that wide world out there. That’s essential.

Choose a rental company you can trust and always take full insurance

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